# Snakewood cracking - can I dry it in the microwave?



## MJWoodcraft (Feb 2, 2016)

Hi there,

I purchased some snakewood from eBay and made a pen for a client. The client has returned the pen to me with the cap cracked. I'm assuming the wood wasn't completely dry. The wood has been sitting now for a few months but I want to make sure it's totally dry before I attempt another one.

Anyone have similar experiences? Can I try to dry it in the microwave? 

Or is this the nature of snakewood?

MJ 

Http://www.mjwoodcraft.ca


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## target64 (Feb 2, 2016)

Snake wood is very difficult to dry and is very likely to crack.


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## BRobbins629 (Feb 2, 2016)

after you drill the snake wood, let it sit for a few days before gluing in tube. It will probably shrink and require redrilling or filing out. Drill or file again and repeat until it is stable. When ready to assemble, sand out the tube inside until you have a slip fit rather than a press fit. Glue the tube to the fitting rather than pressing in. I have made several snake wood and other crack prone materials this way with no cracks for many years.


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## OKLAHOMAN (Feb 2, 2016)

Bruce, that's almost exactly how Lou Metcalf taught me a number of years ago. 



BRobbins629 said:


> after you drill the snake wood, let it sit for a few days before gluing in tube. It will probably shrink and require redrilling or filing out. Drill or file again and repeat until it is stable. When ready to assemble, sand out the tube inside until you have a slip fit rather than a press fit. Glue the tube to the fitting rather than pressing in. I have made several snake wood and other crack prone materials this way with no cracks for many years.


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## magpens (Feb 2, 2016)

Welcome to IAP, Michael !!!


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## jttheclockman (Feb 3, 2016)

Welcome Michael

You chose one of those finicky woods. For some it does not crack and others it does. Alot has to do where the wood was harvested and how was it dried. Also other factors are how you drill and finish the wood. 

Heat is the enemy with that wood. Need to keep the blank cool and drill bit cooled. Need to clear the blank many times so as to not force the bit. I suggest after you drilled the blank, let it set and then drip some thin CA in the hole and let dry. Check your tube so that it slides easily in the hole. If not then you need to file or redrill. I would use epoxy as the glue of choice because it remains flexable to the point the blank can move as all woods move. Then when finishing you need to be sure you do not overheat the blank when sanding or turning. 

Finally I would not press fit the componets, I would ream or file the inside of the tube so that the parts slide in and attach them using red loctite. 

Good luck.


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## MJWoodcraft (Feb 3, 2016)

Great tips...ill try them out.


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## KenV (Feb 3, 2016)

Ebony is another crack prone wood.  I can usually repair snakewood cracks, but not always.  Sometimes the crack comes months later, and I warn those taking one home of the risk and willingness to repair or replace.


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## low_48 (Feb 3, 2016)

That's a question that is just as old as this site. Welcome!


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## farmer (Feb 5, 2016)

*Snake wood cracking*



MJWoodcraft said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I purchased some snakewood from eBay and made a pen for a client. The client has returned the pen to me with the cap cracked. I'm assuming the wood wasn't completely dry. The wood has been sitting now for a few months but I want to make sure it's totally dry before I attempt another one.
> 
> ...



I didn't know you could buy seasoned Snake wood ?
At least not on the open market 
Everyone that I know who uses it, has had it for a decade or so.

At least that is what I have been doing..

I try to buy exotic woods from people who are going out of business.
Years a go I bought out 2 custom cue makers exotic wood stock.
They sat on the wood for a decade and now I have been setting on it for 6 or 7 years too.

I have not ever had a cracking issue, in less the wood cracked when it was drying....but never on a finished product...

I have plenty of enough issues without adding in unseasoned wood.


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## jttheclockman (Feb 5, 2016)

farmer said:


> MJWoodcraft said:
> 
> 
> > Hi there,
> ...




Mike

Not to be negative but with wood it is nice to work with wood that is completely dry and yes if it sits the chances are good that it is but that does not mean for sure. Wood is a product that is constantly living. It takes on moisture naturally by the environment it is in. How it is stored is a product of that. How it is finished is another product of that. We are working with wood and placing it on a round tube. When turned down you are introducing heat and the end product is very thin. You are locking a moving object such as wood to a solid metal of the tube with glue that has no flex. Sometimes and snakewood is a good example the fibers are just too thin and with the heavy grain running through it can cause it to swell and crack. Add a little external pressure from pressing kit parts into that tube can make it split.  You work with pool cues. They are solid blanks and thicker items so the comparison does not fit. 

You can never guarantee a wood pen will not crack especially using crack prone woods such as snakewood, pink ivory, ebony and so forth. If you have had success, count your lucky stars and continued success.


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## Mike@CSUSA (Feb 5, 2016)

Whenever I turn Snakewood or other woods prone to cracking I don't use the tubes.  I drill the blanks so the parts fit the drilled hole with a slip fit.  When I'm done turning i glue the parts in with flexible adhesive, so far I've not had one crack.


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## jttheclockman (Feb 5, 2016)

Mike@CSUSA said:


> Whenever I turn Snakewood or other woods prone to cracking I don't use the tubes.  I drill the blanks so the parts fit the drilled hole with a slip fit.  When I'm done turning i glue the parts in with flexible adhesive, so far I've not had one crack.




To me Mike that is the key. The wood needs to be able to move. I use the tubes but file them out so that the components are slip fit and adhere with red loctite 

I use epoxy to glue in tubes because it does remain flexible enough.


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## nativewooder (Feb 5, 2016)

If you don't want it to crack, don't buy it!  It's going to crack!


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## jttheclockman (Feb 5, 2016)

nativewooder said:


> If you don't want it to crack, don't buy it!  It's going to crack!




hummmmmmmmmmm


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## SDB777 (Feb 5, 2016)

Welcome aboard!!!!
I haven't been able to get a snakewood out yet....I'll have to give Bruces' method a go.


Scott (hate the stuff) B


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## KenV (Feb 5, 2016)

Using the "Bruce Method" I have had better than 90% success.   Still expect a crack now and again --  most are repairable.


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## farmer (Feb 6, 2016)

*Wood working*



jttheclockman said:


> farmer said:
> 
> 
> > MJWoodcraft said:
> ...




I do :biggrin:
I Guarantee all my products with  (my ) lifetime Guarantee..

Your fault my fault someone else's fault I don't care send the product back to me and I will always try to fix it for free.

Even if I didn't make the product, I still guarantee the product the best I can if I am the one who sold it to you.

I don't do stressful business .
Its all for fun,,  and I have to make sure the stuff I sale holds together.

I want my products to have a second hand market or value, and I want them to be able to be handed down from one generation to the next fully functional and unscathed .


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## jttheclockman (Feb 6, 2016)

farmer said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> > farmer said:
> ...




Mike

Now you know that is not what I meant When I said guarantee I meant you can not say with complete certainty that those woods will not crack. Not if they crack I will fix them. Heck we all do that or at least we try. People here make pens and many sell their pens and they sell them with intent that they too will be used and passed down from generation to generation. Thus this is the reason so many people are looking for that finish that stands up to the test of time or that plating of the kit parts to the test of time. I guarantee my pens for life also but if mistreated then there are exceptions. 

Still am looking for examples of your pool cues.


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## farmer (Feb 7, 2016)

jttheclockman said:


> farmer said:
> 
> 
> > jttheclockman said:
> ...



I bought exotic woods years ago so when I go to use it I get the least amount of movement.

Sorry this is a joke, someone using green snake wood to make a pen and then in 6 months the wood cracks is destiny...
It has nothing to do with luck, its has everything to do with planning.


Nothing was done to try to insure the snake wood would not shrink in the future...
It was a push button cowboy Yee Haw, Yippy Ki A move.....
And I figure the OP knows it by now, only problem is The Op needs some dry snake wood yesterday....

As of me posting pictures of my work, I can only ask why.
I not a known cue maker in the world of pool cue makers.
And personally I don't know if I want to be.
And my cues look allot like another famous cue maker That at one time I designed cues for.....................

Until I come up with my own design for trim rings that is different from any other cue maker in the world I don't want any image of any of my cues on line.
I don't want to be known as a cue maker who copied some one else's work.
Or made cues that could be taken as being made by some one besides me.


The other problems are I have one product that is selling faster then I can make them..
I am 18 months back ordered on them...


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## jttheclockman (Feb 7, 2016)

OK Mike, instead of calling the OP names, here is the OP problem. He made a pen for a client from snakewood. It cracked on him. The OP then said he thinks the wood may have been not dry enough. (guessing) What he wants to do is make another pen cap to replace the one that is cracked. He has some of the same wood left over and it has been sitting for a few months now. He asks is there a way to ensure that it is dry enough to work again. Now mind you we are talking pen blanks that are 3/4" square. 

Being you seem to be an expert on exotic woods what advice would you give this person to help him out.???  This is the point of his question. He is looking for answers or advice to help him in this situation. Or maybe you can offer some snakewood so he can help his client out. 

As far as you not showing your work, I will buy that. Maybe you can show us what has taken up so much of your time and share it with us. We all love photos here. Also the techniques you have developed for your cues would be a very good idea for pens and that would not be copying so maybe you can do that while you work on other designs for cues. I assume you make pens. Maybe I am wrong there. Not sure.

Anyway I hope you can help this person out. We need people that are knowledgeable on things like this. Your thoughts may also help others in the future.


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## Maverick KB (Feb 9, 2016)

I've been researching a good bit on snakewood after having issues with it cracking myself. There are several things to consider when evaluating this material. 

First is shrinkage: 
With a T/R Ratio of 1.3, the radial surface is expected to shrink 4.7% and the tangential surface 6%. Total volumetric 10.7%. This means the radial surface (the flatsawn face grain where you can observe the vertical axis) will shrink 4.7% from green oven dry and the tangential surface (the end grain or quartersawn surface) 6% in the same amount of time. This ratio is in every wood and is why wood warps or cups even when properly stored. There is a 3rd axis called longitudinal shrinkage which runs lengthwise, but this is typically about 0.1%-0.2% and therefore not typically considered relevant. 

Ovendry is the driest state wood can reach, but is impossible to keep once it comes out of the oven. This is because the RH (relative humidity) of the environment around the wood presents it with moisture that is absorbed by the wood. Ovendry wood (wood at its driest - 0% MC), not kiln dried wood (wood that was dried in an oven) has a lower moisture content than the RH and will pull moisture from the air like a sponge. This causes it to swell and increase in volume. This shrinking and expanding due to RH is why old furniture cracks and why wood is said to be a "living" material. 

Moisture content is calculated by weight of the moisture in the wood compared to the weight at an ovendry state. This means some green wood can have a moisture content over 100% when freshly cut. Wood will begin to lose moisture from the moment is cut and is considered "green" until it drops to around 30%. This is called the fiber saturation point (FSP). This is when the wood looses its "free water" which is the moisture in the pores and vessels of the wood. From 0.01% - 30% is considered to be "drying" and will find a natural equilibrium moisture content (EMC) where the moisture content will balance with the RH. This is where the wood gains or looses water trapped within the cell structure. If you keep your wood in an area with a relatively high RH, you will not see lower MC however if you keep your wood in storage where RH is controlled and kept lower than the natural RH of the environment the finished product will be in, you can expect swelling. 

T/R ratios can range from about 1.0 to nearly 3.0. A T/R ratio of 1.0 means the wood will shrink in a perfectly uniform manner. This is purely theoretical however as the thicker the piece of wood, the slower the center will dry compared to the outer edges which are exposed more directly to the environment. On average, most woods have a 2.0 T/R. Snakewood is actually quite stable at 1.3. Radial shrinkage less than 2% is considered a very stable wood, snakewood has 4.7% and falls in the range between 3-5% found in most woods. The tangential range for most woods is 6-10%. Snakewood falls on the most stable range for average wood values. 

*side note* an average of 2.0 means a flatsawn surface will shrink at twice the rate of a quartersawn surface and explains why quartersawn woods are considered more stable than flatsawn woods.

This means that the drying process for snakewood will be less likely to warp or mangle your specimen, but does not specify the rate at which it will shrink or swell after if finds EMC. To protect the wood a finish is applied. The best way to seal a wood and prevent absorption of moisture due to RH is to dip it in paraffin wax. This will prevent 95-99% of the moisture from affecting the wood. This is often why you find the paraffin wax on your exotic wood ends or over the whole piece; to prevent warping and cracking before the piece can be sold. Paraffin wax is not a good finish for a project, but 6 coats of shellac offers the second best level of protection (I don't have notes on CA finish, so I can't say for sure where that lies in the range) while paste wax, linseed oil and tung oil have very little protection against moisture. 
*edit* Friction polish alone combines penetrating oils with (typically) a 1lb mix of shellac and is applied fairly thin. This offers little protection against moisture compared to 6 coats of 2lb shellac.  

The second thing to consider is the nature of the wood. Snakewood is ranked as the 5th hardest wood with a Janka Hardness of 3,800lbf @ 12%MC. (This explains the blunting effect on your skew) It is ranked 4th in elasticity with a rating of 3,364,000 lbf/in^2 @12%MC. The grain in snakewood is very thin. The patterning is not to be confused with the actual wood grain. Snakewood, coming from coastal regions of northeast South America (from southern Mexico and Belize to Bolivia and Brazil)* exhibits similar grain characteristics to that of palm and other coastal trees where growth in width is slow. (Snakewood trees can be 65-80 ft tall, but only 6-12 inches in trunk diameter) This creates a very fine grain which is prone to cracking along the facegrane where the phloem and xylem of each growing season are tightly compressed and easy to separate. 

*Figured snakewood is found in the lowlands occurring near rivers and creeks in rich brown soil.

In summary: 
Snakewood is a fairly stable, very dense and often brittle specimen. It is very closely related to its less dense relative, bloodwood. It exhibits a very acceptable T/R ratio with an overall position low in the average range for wood shrinkage and although it can shrink up to 10.7% total volume from fresh cut, shrinkage is less an issue with snakewood than many other exotics we use. The primary consideration should be the brittle nature and density of the wood. Press fit components will exert an outward radial force on the face grain and encourage it to split between the phloem and xylem of the grain. A tight fit around a brass tube with a rigid glue will prevent movement of the inner wall as the outer surface is exposed to varying RH. As no finish is perfect for preventing RH from impacting the wood (especially considering the most susceptible part of the wood, the end grain, which is typically unsealed and faces the components of the pen) there will be mild expansion and contraction of the wood due to RH. The brittle and delicate nature of such thin pieces could be affected by RH even though it is a more stable wood than most. 

Another fun fact about Snakewood, it is in the Mulberry family (fig family). 

Don't take my word for it... here's some references:
Snakewood | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)
https://woodcollectors.org/pdf/wow-may-june-2015-2.pdf
parenchyma | plant tissue | Britannica.com
Tree Rings - What they Are and Why they Vary

Final thoughts... snakewood is hard to dry, so if you don't plan to sit on that piece for 10-20 years look more at your construction and techniques. The advice given already about loose fit components and selection of adhesive will give you the best possible chance at success. The nature of snakewood is a brittle and fragile one, prone to cracking no matter what you do.


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## Maverick KB (Feb 9, 2016)

Oh yeah, and to answer the original question about using a microwave... I would not recommend it. The use of a microwave will cause the moisture trapped inside the wood to expand rapidly. The density of the wood will prevent the moisture from escaping easily. The end result is the pressure of the expanding moisture will press outward on the wood and likely cause fractures and cracking as it seeks a path to escape the wood. You would have more success kiln drying the wood. You can do this by placing it in an oven at the lowest setting for hours (only works if you don't worry about energy bills or a wife that cooks), dedicating a toaster oven to the same purpose (although a possible alternative, they are not energy efficient and prone to large variations in temperature) or building your own wood drying box where temperature and RH are closely controlled. (think of it like an oversize heated humidor) You'll want to keep the temperature higher than normal summer climates to accelerate the drying, but not too hot as to damage the wood... The lowest most ovens will go is around 150-170. This will do the trick. many large saw mills will use temperatures around 300 degrees f for an hour or so. With the density and fragility of snakewood, I wouldn't recommend drastic measures. Again, the density of the wood are an issue and it will be a much slower process than more commonly used woods/exotic woods. Careful not to over dry the wood too, then you'll have swelling issues as it absorbs moisture from the air. If you've removed any paraffin wax from the sample, a few months indoors or in an attic should do the trick to get it below EMC. If you're really concerned about the moisture content, you should probably invest in a good moisture meter or a good scale and use those advanced math skills most like to forget after school... but that's a whole other topic. (remember, MC is calculated by actual weight compared to the weight of the wood at 0%mc. So, if you know the average dried weight (76 lbs/ft3 (1,210 kg/m3) for snakewood) and the volume of your piece, you can weigh the piece to calculate a fairly accurate MC.

*edit*
I love this guy's page and I've purchased his book. A great source of info!
Drying Wood at Home | The Wood Database

Wood and Moisture | The Wood Database


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## jttheclockman (Feb 9, 2016)

Ken

Thanks for the info. It is very informative. This question comes up many times here because the look of snakewood is dramatic when used on a pen.  Some people have success and some failure. Sometimes the failures show up months down the road. The info you provided is very good and gives an insight. But as with some of those finicky woods, no matter what you do and how you dry it or care for it and preserve it, being it is such a small thin piece of timber we deal with all bets are off. As I mentioned in my response to the OP there are many factors that go into it  and that includes where it was harvested, how it was dried, what part of the branch do you have, how you finish it and so on. 

You do the best to control what you can control and one of the last things is to not put additional stress on it by pressing the components into the tube. Use a slip fit and use an adhesive that will have some movement. Finish all ends of the blank so that air does moisture does not get absorbed. 

In this case the OP had some material left over from the previous blank and it sat for a few months. To me being such a small piece of timber that is sufficient time to acclimate to its suroundings. Placing in a toaster oven for an hour can not hurt but as soon as you take it out it will once again draw in moisture. You do not want to work any blank right after you heated it. Trial and error come with those types of woods. As I mentioned pink ivory, ebony are other woods that can be a pain but when used can give dramatic effects.


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## Maverick KB (Feb 9, 2016)

John, 

I agree with you on every point. I realize I didn't add anything to the conversation as far as techniques or solutions, because you've already covered that quite well. I'm the type that needs to understand something completely... it's my nature I suppose, so I wanted to go into some of the reason why to dispel some other theories or incomplete assumptions with the scientific facts. 

You do bring up a very good point I missed - as I cautioned about over drying the wood, working it right after heating is a bad idea and the wood should always be given time to acclimate after heating. Thanks for pointing that out explicitly. 

I also agree, a few months is most likely more than enough time to reach an equilibrium in the smaller pieces of any type.


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## jttheclockman (Feb 9, 2016)

Maverick KB said:


> John,
> 
> I agree with you on every point. I realize I didn't add anything to the conversation as far as techniques or solutions, because you've already covered that quite well. I'm the type that needs to understand something completely... it's my nature I suppose, so I wanted to go into some of the reason why to dispel some other theories or incomplete assumptions with the scientific facts.
> 
> ...




Ken

I see you just joined recently so welcome to the site. It is always great to have informed people join in conversations and bring along facts such as in this case. helps others to understand also and that is what we do here share knowledge. As in this case I am sure you will see the question arise again and if it does a reference back to this thread always helps. 

Glad to have you here and hope to see projects. Look around and jump right in. Friendly bunch here.


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## Maverick KB (Feb 9, 2016)

John,
Thank you! I've been poking around quite a bit and found quite a bit of useful info already. Also looking forward to completing some submissions for the Bash, if for nothing more than to challenge myself. 

I'm sure it will come up again... at least I won't have to type all that out again next time someone asks about snakewood or EMC/MC issues. I love sharing knowledge, what good is it if it's not shared? If my hard work or hard learned lessons can give someone else a jump start, who knows where they might go with it in turn (pun intended).


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## farmer (Feb 12, 2016)

*Pens*



jttheclockman said:


> OK Mike, instead of calling the OP names, here is the OP problem. He made a pen for a client from snakewood. It cracked on him. The OP then said he thinks the wood may have been not dry enough. (guessing) What he wants to do is make another pen cap to replace the one that is cracked. He has some of the same wood left over and it has been sitting for a few months now. He asks is there a way to ensure that it is dry enough to work again. Now mind you we are talking pen blanks that are 3/4" square.
> 
> Being you seem to be an expert on exotic woods what advice would you give this person to help him out.???  This is the point of his question. He is looking for answers or advice to help him in this situation. Or maybe you can offer some snakewood so he can help his client out.
> 
> ...



I never call peoples names ..............................
Please prove where I have called anyone one name in here .


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## fisherhahn (Mar 19, 2016)

I wish I had seen this thread sooner. I ordered a piece of snakewood a few weeks ago and made three pens this afternoon. Just drilled and turned like any other wood. Had no trouble at all drilling. While turning I noticed cracking on the first one, but after finishing with ca it is very hard to see. The second two I tried to turn quick and get a coat of ca on quick before sanding. This seemed to help but I did get some small cracks. Again, after finishing, they look great. So now I guess it is just a waiting gme to see if/when they crack more? Did i just get lucky when drilling to not get any cracks? Got hot enough to melt most of the wax.I love the way they look so I guess they will just be my own pens unitl something happens to them or they will be gifts with an explanation of what might happen to them.


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## Maverick KB (Mar 21, 2016)

If you got hot enough to melt the wax, it's still a guessing game. Paraffin wax melts at a low temp. Still, you will want to drill slower and not try to remove as much material before letting the wood and the bit cool back down. Take your time for better chances. As for getting lucky... hard to say, but given how you went right at it... I'd venture to say yes. Very lucky. The way they hold up will depend on a few other things. How wet they were, what type of adhesive you used to secure the tubes, finish etc. 

Please let us know how they stand up and I hope you've learned something to improve your skills. I'd love to see what you've done!


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## Outdoorsman (May 24, 2019)

farmer said:


> *Wood working*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm in total agreement here. I have my integrity on the line when I sell an item to a customer or a client. I want to rest assured that they know that I stand behind what I represent. That is why I'm so eager to resolve issues like the potential for any wood cracking after the fact. Yes there are circumstances that we have no control over, as to how our product is treated once we sell it. If however we are ever increasing our knowledge base, and discovering the intricacies such as the ones that have been kind and elaborated in this string. As we better understand the characteristics of certain woods or even other turning materials, we can minimize the risks for our end user. I'm committed to producing heirloom quality pens and other items I craft. Thank you all.


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