# Why should you "paint tubes for best results" with PR blanks?



## TurnerJP (May 9, 2011)

I will be attempting my first try with PR (avocado color, from exotic blanks). I'm just curious to know why, and with what, I should be painting my brass tubes with?

Thanks in advance.

JP


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## G1Pens (May 9, 2011)

Paint the tubes AND the inside of the blank. This keeps the brass tube from showing thru the acrylic. Some acrylics are worse than others about letting the brass show. It is usually more noticable at the nib and clip end because the material is turned so much thinner there. Sometimes if the blank is very transparent it will show through at other spots as well.

The color you use will have an impact on how the blank looks when turned. Whites will lighten, black darken. Greys tend to keep it neutral. I usually paint with a color close to the color of the blank.

I have found Ceramcoat acrylic craft paints to give me the best results and they are not expensive.


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## ed4copies (May 9, 2011)

Then you could legitimately ask, "Why don't they just put more dye in the resin, so it's not so "see-through"?

Because the "depth of color" is achieved by using some transparent colors that allow the 'pearly' stuff to show through.  If we used all opaque colors, you would not have to paint, but your blank would be boring.


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## ed4copies (May 9, 2011)

Oh, HI JP!!!!  Welcome to IAP!!!

May want to view this, if you have not done plastics before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xikciU16Fts

PM me if you have questions.


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## TurnerJP (May 9, 2011)

So...which then is better for showing off the full range of color in the PR blanks? A white paint, a black paint, or a paint close to the color of the PR blank which you will be turning?

Thanks again!


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## TurnerJP (May 9, 2011)

Also, does painting make the CA glue bond less comprehensively to the brass tubing? Is that the correct gluing agent of choice in this particular application?


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## ed4copies (May 9, 2011)

That's a long story.  Do a search here on CA and paint, get a brew or two and start reading.

Short version:  CA dissolves many paints, use Testors (model little bottles) paint and let dry thoroughly or use epoxy for these blanks, instead of CA.  Epoxy can even be tinted with paint.


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## TurnerJP (May 9, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Oh, HI JP!!!!  Welcome to IAP!!!
> 
> May want to view this, if you have not done plastics before:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xikciU16Fts
> ...



Thanks for the warm welcome and thanks for the link. I'll be sure to view that later when I get out of work!

I'm curious to start turning these PR blanks I bought last week...ultimately as a learning experience so that I will be able to turn a black titanium and carbon fiber fountain pen...a handheld Audi R8 if you will!


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## TurnerJP (May 9, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> That's a long story.  Do a search here on CA and paint, get a brew or two and start reading.
> 
> Short version:  CA dissolves many paints, use Testors (model little bottles) paint and let dry thoroughly or use epoxy for these blanks, instead of CA.  Epoxy can even be tinted with paint.



I have alot of fast-set two part epoxy around my workshop - one of the great things about having a father with access to materials through work =)...glad to hear that will work!


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## Rob73 (May 9, 2011)

I learned the hard way today to paint blanks & tubes.







I put blue marker on the tube but that obviously did nothing ;(


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## KenV (May 9, 2011)

Bummer Rob --

But that is why I paint the inside of the blank -- so the glue and gaps or bubbles in the glue does not show.   Being the basic Belt & Suspender approach person, I color both the blank AND the tube  -- but I think painting the inside of the blank is the most important.

I have not gotten there yet -- but some are using color mixtures or multiple colors to pain the inside of the blanks to get a wider range of tone effects -

Keep working on skills  -- looks like a good even turning job.


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## G1Pens (May 10, 2011)

TurnerJP said:


> Also, does painting make the CA glue bond less comprehensively to the brass tubing? Is that the correct gluing agent of choice in this particular application?


 

I have started using white Gorilla glue on all my acrylics. I have to wait a day for it to set up, but its worth it.


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## workinforwood (May 10, 2011)

CA glue most certainly can eat the paint you worked hard to put there. With a clear blank, you definitely need to paint inside the blank, but I think more often with acrylics you can just paint the tubes and use a tinted 5 min epoxy. If you spray paint tubes, let the tubes dry for 24 hrs so the paint is hardened up, before you glue them in.  Unless a plastic is completely solid, and even then, if you cut it thin enough, you start to see through it.  A pen blank with a bit of depth, will have at least some semi transparent spots in it, and these spots become more transparent as the material becomes thinner..or closer to the tube.  When you get a blank, trim a piece off the end about 1/8 thick and look at it in the light. Does it completely block the light? If so, it's totally solid. If you can not see through it but can at least see the light as though it's like stained glass but possibly denser or maybe slightly less dense..better get some paint on the tubes. If you can see through it big time, better paint inside the blank!


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## DozerMite (May 10, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Then you could legitimately ask, "Why don't they just put more dye in the resin, so it's not so "see-through"?
> 
> Because the "depth of color" is achieved by using some transparent colors that allow the 'pearly' stuff to show through. If we used all opaque colors, you would not have to paint, but your blank would be boring.[/quote]
> 
> ...


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## PenMan1 (May 10, 2011)

Justin:
It's almost like an Easter egg hunt. I have my "goto" reverse paint colors, then when I get bored, I experiment!!!!

White, Black, Vivid blue and Hunter Green will work with almost any blank. BUT, the blank takes on a different personality with each of those colors.

As far as types of paint....I ALWAYS use the cheapest acrylic spray paint, or Ceramkote brush paint, UNLESS I change my mind, and use something else.

Which paint I use determines which glue I use to glue tubes, but that is a disertation.

I recommend that you buy A BUNCH of extra tubes, paint them all differently and USE the one that best fits your style. As they say, one man's junk is another's antique. Even though tubes have nearly doubled in price, they are still dirt cheap!


Welcome aboard!!!!!!

Respectfully submitted.


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## Dave Turner (May 11, 2011)

I paint just the inside of the blanks after drilling. I use the standard acrylic paints marketed to decorative painters (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc.) and use a Q-tip to apply the paint inside the drilled hole.  I glue my unpainted tubes in using 5 minute epoxy. So far this works like a charm.


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## Padre (May 11, 2011)

Ed, you say use Testor's paints.  What kind? They have enamel, acrylic and lacquers.  I tried some once, it was 'water washable' and it really didn't stick that well to the tubes or blanks.

HELP! 



ed4copies said:


> That's a long story.  Do a search here on CA and paint, get a brew or two and start reading.
> 
> Short version:  CA dissolves many paints, use Testors (model little bottles) paint and let dry thoroughly or use epoxy for these blanks, instead of CA.  Epoxy can even be tinted with paint.


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## ed4copies (May 11, 2011)

Hey Chip!!

I use the little bottles of Testor's, that I find next to the plastic ship models (I think it is acrylic---but I KNOW some acrylics don't work, so this causes a "does not compute" in my cranium).  Hope this helps a little???

Ed


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## Padre (May 11, 2011)

Yes, Ed, it does help!  I should probably just get an inexpensive set of each and see which works best!


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## ed4copies (May 11, 2011)

Well, those darn little bottles are over a buck a piece---let me read one tonight and see if we can save you from buying the wrong stuff!!


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## w5brw (May 12, 2011)

I can sure tell you what not to do! :frown:  I tried coating the brass with a  black sharpie, after scuffing the brass with 180 to help adhesion.   Biggest mess I've ever made!  I let them sit for about 3 hours to dry  then used thick CA to glue them in.  Out of 6 blanks 4 released while  being turned and the other 2 held in place.  The 4 that released slid  out like they had no glue on them at all, and were covered in the  nastiest black goo .  I used CA release to clean out the blanks, and sand  paper to clean the brass.    Ended up using epoxy to put the tubes back in and finally got them turned.

Long story being cheap and trying to take a short cut caused more problems than it was worth.  I think I'll use the sharpie to mark the blanks next time and use real paint on the tube.


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## ed4copies (May 12, 2011)

Ok Chip---went to the Hobby Store and got a bottle---
"Testor's enamel"---1/4 fl oz---about $2---much more expensive than champagne

But Champagne won't paint the tubes worth a darn:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## TurnerJP (May 13, 2011)

So....acrylic paint, or enamel? Which is the better of the two for painting tubes with?


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## KenV (May 13, 2011)

Both work well for the epoxy glues I use -- 

I tend to lean to the acrylics because they cleanup easier.   The little bottles from the hobby store work.  I paint the inside of the blank.

Note that your glue choice does make a difference.   I have never had a problem with sharpie coloring on tubes with epoxy and Buford reports problems with CA glue.  (I use sharpie colors on the tubes under laser patterns to avoid brass yellow showing through in a gap)  

Having some dowels (stir sticks) with paint colors on them to put into the blanks and estimate the effect of different colors with the blanks was a great idea from Dawn --  great way to use the extra paint on the brush or q-tip.


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## DurocShark (May 13, 2011)

Just to give another kick to this dead horse...

Even opaque acrylics and PR blanks can be affected by paint. For example, I had a dark blue blank and made two sierra pens. One I painted the hole blue, the other I painted white. 

After turning it down, the pens were completely different colors. Even though the blank was dark enough to have no trace of the tube visible, there was still color influence from the paint.

I've taken to painting every single plasticky blank I turn regardless of how dense it is. That way I can control the color, rather than hope the brass tube doesn't turn my red blank orange.

As for paint, enamel enamel enamel. And don't bother with paints made for plastic. They're a joke. I use rattle can paint for the standard colors such as black and white. It's fast, but messy. I have a range of model paints as well, and even some suspended gold and silver paints I've been experimenting with. 

Here's what I would recommend: Buy a bunch of the cheapest PR or acrylic blanks you can get in a range of colors. Get a bunch of slim tubes. Start drilling and painting different colors and turn them all down. You'll quickly get a feel for how the various densities and colors of plastic reveal with different paints. Plus you'll get lots of practice turning plastics. Consider it a training class, and your pens will be the better for the effort.


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## KenV (May 13, 2011)

"Here's what I would recommend: Buy a bunch of the cheapest PR or acrylic blanks you can get in a range of colors. Get a bunch of slim tubes. Start drilling and painting different colors and turn them all down. You'll quickly get a feel for how the various densities and colors of plastic reveal with different paints. Plus you'll get lots of practice turning plastics. Consider it a training class, and your pens will be the better for the effort. "



sound of hands clapping here!!!!


Most excellent recommendation  -- and putting them on a piece of foam board with notes in a portfolio might even help keep the memory recall working.  My wife does that with weaving/spinning learnings to avoid repeating the experience.


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## EarlD (May 13, 2011)

DurocShark said:


> ...I use rattle can paint for the standard colors such as black and white. It's fast, but messy.



How do you keep the thickness of the paint from causing the tube to no longer fit into the hole?  Do you paint the tube also, or just the blank?

Earl


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## DurocShark (May 13, 2011)

That's why I do the rattle can. It is MUCH thinner than bottle paint. In fact, occasionally I have to do two coats!

And I don't bother painting the tube. Just the hole drilled into the blank.


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## EarlD (May 13, 2011)

DurocShark said:


> That's why I do the rattle can. It is MUCH thinner than bottle paint. In fact, occasionally I have to do two coats!
> 
> And I don't bother painting the tube. Just the hole drilled into the blank.




I'm heading to Home Depot.  What do you use?  Krylon, Rustoleum?

Earl


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## DurocShark (May 13, 2011)

Any of the name brand ones. I just know the off brand ones will work, but the name brand ones are better. Other than that, I go by price.


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## Ruby pen turning (May 13, 2011)

enamel is the only paint that has worked for me using CA to glue the tubes in.


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## 76winger (May 13, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Ok Chip---went to the Hobby Store and got a bottle---
> "Testor's enamel"---1/4 fl oz---about $2---much more expensive than champagne
> 
> But Champagne won't paint the tubes worth a darn:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:



WOW, I've got some that have 15 cents, 19 cents and such printed on the cap!  Of course they're about 30 years old and from my model-making days. But hey, they've remained sealed and in good condition and I now have a new way to finish them off! :biggrin:


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## DurocShark (May 13, 2011)

I remember those days. My mom used to love sending me to the store with a quarter. It would get me out of her hair for an hour or two, and I got some new paint!


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