# table saw, band saw, miter saw, which saw??



## markgum (Nov 12, 2012)

wondering if I need, a miter saw?  I want to start experimenting with celtic knots and segmenting.  I have a dewalt portable table saw, and a 14 inch band saw.  I have yet to build my vacuum rip fence for the table saw. My shop is a TINY 1 car garage.  
If a miter saw is necessary for this type work; just a simple miter saw; or should one go all out with a dual bevel, sliding compound one?
  Thanks in advance for your guidance.


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## commercialbuilder (Nov 12, 2012)

Using the table saw to cut miters is the most accurate way I think but your saw needs to be tuned to get the best cuts. You can build a jig like the one in this article http://content.penturners.org/library/tools_and_jigs/celticknotjig.pdf from the library or I use the Inca jig system but it was expensive. If you buy a miter box the sliding box is more versital in my opinion but not as accurate as a well adjusted table saw with a good jig.


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## alinc100 (Nov 12, 2012)

Mark,
 Depending on the width of the Celtic knot I use my large JET 18" bandsaw,it has a 1" 3tpi heavy blade to make the cut,usually equals the width of 3 layers of veneer.If I am doing a 2 band knot I use a 45 deg jig on my small tabletop bandsaw,3/8" 6-8 tpi blade,if it is a wide/thick =/- 1/8" inlay I use a 45 deg sled on my table saw.Really thin I'll use a Japanese handsaw and a homemade miter box.

I have a DeWalt 12" compound miter saw and do not like the results with small parts in segmenting/inlays for pens with it.


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## George417 (Nov 12, 2012)

I too prefer to use a table saw for Celtic knots. It's the most accurate.

:biggrin::biggrin:


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## jttheclockman (Nov 12, 2012)

Each saw you mentioned has its value. The tablesaw probably the most versatile and will do you just fine for doing segmentation and also knots. There are some very thin blades out there that can be used. These blades need to be used on fine work and not made for heavy ripping. A scrollsaw can be a useful tool also. Alot of people get by with a bandsaw. Whatever saw you use please know how to use it properly and use safety guides and jigs to hold small pieces. Those blades can hurt very quickly.

Pretty soon we will see you producing knots such as these.


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## KenV (Nov 12, 2012)

Mark, the segmented turning community as represented by the AAW Segmented Woodtueners chapter discussions is split between table saws and compound saws.  Both use jigs to get repeatable settings.  None are expecting precision settings repeatable from the saw settings, but some of the expensive ones like Festool seem to get there more often.

There are some high precision model makers saws out there too.  Byrnes is highly regarded for precision and repeatability.

Often, the choice is predominatly based on what you have.  Most use disc and drum sanders with the saws.   

Modelmakers hand saw can work too.


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## randyrls (Nov 12, 2012)

jttheclockman said:


> There are some very thin blades out there  that can be used. These blades need to be used on fine work and not made  for heavy ripping.




To join the thread;  I use a 7-1/4" carbide tipped circular saw blade for making Inlays, but as John said, they are not for heavy work.  They tend to "sing" and vibrate if pushed too fast.  My favorite one cuts a .075" kerf.


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## Kaspar (Nov 12, 2012)

KenV said:


> There are some high precision model makers saws out there too.  Byrnes is highly regarded for precision and repeatability.



I can second the Byrnes Saw.  If you can swing it.  They are pricy.  Worth it, but pricy.  

(P.S. If you really want to go whole hog, get a mill.  I just did and I haven't been this excited about segmenting work in some time.)


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## markgum (Nov 12, 2012)

thanks for everyones input.  Think I'll put the miter saw on the back burner, get the sleds built and start turn'n.


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## raar25 (Nov 13, 2012)

I personally dont like the mitre saw for small parts, mostly for safety reasons.  I have had some bind and become projectiles because of the clearance in the fence.  Also the reason I always use a face shield 100% now, one particular piece really stung when I caught it in the cheek!


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## Druid (Nov 13, 2012)

Kaspar said:


> KenV said:
> 
> 
> > There are some high precision model makers saws out there too. Byrnes is highly regarded for precision and repeatability.
> ...


 
Thats what I have Eric, its a little pricy but very very accurate and quite veristile on numerous projects to incude cutting up to 1".


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## rherrell (Nov 14, 2012)

You already have a tablesaw, now make a sled for it. It's the safest and easiest way I know of for accurate cuts. Here's the one I made...

 

 

 

It has several different clamping options for just about anything you need to hold, and it was all made from scrap wood and spare parts.


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 14, 2012)

Nice looking sled Rick.  I like the round blank hold down especially.


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## TerryDowning (Nov 14, 2012)

Don't forget hand tools.

For precision miter cuts with minimal kerf waste, My Nobex 110 is hard to beat and IMHO, much safer than attempting precision miters on small stock with any power saw.


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## Kaspar (Nov 14, 2012)

Those are nice.  I had one, at one point.  The Jim Saw I got several years back has a few blade options including a 3" diameter .020" kerf slitting blade.  It only clears about .5" and you can lower it to cut only the thickness you need for thin and/or small pieces.  I have found it "safe enough."


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## Lenny (Nov 14, 2012)

For repeat ability, accuracy, and most importantly SAFETY, jigs are the way to go! Personally the table saw would be my choice .... I would much rather cut small pieces using a sled on the table saw than try to secure a piece while cutting it with a slide compound saw.


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 14, 2012)

Don't forget you can build various sleds for the bandsaw as well.  I do most of my cuts this way to minimize waste.  I'm thinking about building a version of Rick's sled above for my bandsaw actually.


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