# Let's face it!



## ed4copies (Feb 4, 2013)

Without ruining it!!

What's it??  Your pen blanks---especially resins, diamondwood and other "temperamental" blanks that can crack while using  a normal facing mill.

So, I have made this video, to show how to avoid ruining blanks while trying to make them square.  Take a look!!  As always, comments are welcome.

The video will be HERE in about ten minutes. (11:40 CST)

Ed


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## Mr Vic (Feb 4, 2013)

Simple, inexpensive and accurate...Thanks Ed!!


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## crabcreekind (Feb 4, 2013)

Good video. I will keep this in mind next time I make a tube on cast pen.


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## Kretzky (Feb 4, 2013)

Nicely done Ed.
Comment if I may please. If using bushings (as you did) Folks should check to make sure the stepped part of the bushing actually engages into the brass tube. (ie that the additional resin on the ends isn't long enough to prevent the bushing reaching & sliding into the brass tube)


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## traderdon55 (Feb 4, 2013)

Very good video. I am going out to the shop to make one of these today.


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## walshjp17 (Feb 4, 2013)

Excellent tutorial, Ed.  I've been thrashing about trying to make something similar, but did not think of the morse taper idea.  Thanks for the tip.

jpw


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## brownsfn2 (Feb 4, 2013)

Great video Ed.  This is a great solution for those that do not have a disk sander or other sander.

If you make a lot of Morse tapers John Lucas has a great video on making a morse taper.  I have used this process a few times and it works great.  Here is the link:  using the parting tool - YouTube


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## George417 (Feb 4, 2013)

Great Video Ed.


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## keithbyrd (Feb 4, 2013)

good tutorial Es - makes an easy way to square blank ends!


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## Jim15 (Feb 4, 2013)

Thanks Ed.


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## redbulldog (Feb 4, 2013)

Very good Ed, thanks.


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## ed4copies (Feb 4, 2013)

Thank you all!!  David (Kretzky) makes a very valid point---sorry I did not include it in the video---Yes, you should have the bushings seated in the tubes at least .2" ish.

IF this is NOT the case, you can sand off the end--just don't try to get too close to the brass.


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## MesquiteMan (Feb 4, 2013)

Another way is to use that faceplate that came with most lathes and ends up on the shelf for most penturners.  Screw a piece of wood or MDF onto the faceplate and mount it on the lathe.  True up the face and glue on a piece of Velcro.  Now use velcro backed sandpaper and you can change paper out quickly and easily.


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## ed4copies (Feb 4, 2013)

:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:So, where's your YouTube, Curtis???


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## Emery (Feb 4, 2013)

I have done this using the #2 Morse taper from a pen mandrel with the rod removed and stick on sand paper. And no Ed, I don't have a you tube.


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## randyrls (Feb 4, 2013)

As a tip from machinist friends;  If you need an MT taper, take a morse taper and place it reversed against the one you are making.  Measure the dimension of both at one end, and at the other end.  When the two measurements are identical, the taper is accurate.


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## MesquiteMan (Feb 4, 2013)

ed4copies said:


> :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:So, where's your YouTube, Curtis???



I wasn't aware that there was a competition to see who could put out the most youtube videos, Ed!  I am sorry that I posted my suggestion in YOUR youtube thread.  I thought I was being helpful but guess the info should be saved for a different thread.  Sorry about that.


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## wood-of-1kind (Feb 4, 2013)

MesquiteMan said:


> ed4copies said:
> 
> 
> > :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:So, where's your YouTube, Curtis???
> ...



I can't speak for Ed but my interpretation is that he's being sarcastic rather than ungrateful. It just isn't his style to insult especially when you make a good suggestion. JMO but I'm sure that Ed will answer.


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## lorbay (Feb 4, 2013)

Great job on the video Ed.

Lin.


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## jttheclockman (Feb 4, 2013)

Hey Curtis if you were not going to suggest it, I was.:biggrin: You beat me to it. That is the way I do it. Every lathe comes with a faceplate. I double sticked a piece of plexiglass to mine and just use sticky back sandpaper. I then move the sandpaper around so that I get multiple uses out of a small piece. Works well. 

The one thing Ed did not mention and maybe I did miss it and he did mention it, is that the face of the dowel now has to faced off too to make sure it is flat and 90 degrees to the dowel. This will ensure the sandpaper does not sand on an angle.


Just another way of doing things if someone is going out to the shed.:biggrin:


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## Smitty37 (Feb 4, 2013)

MesquiteMan said:


> ed4copies said:
> 
> 
> > :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:So, where's your YouTube, Curtis???
> ...


 Oh, relax Curtis ... note the big grins at the beginning of Ed's post....I think he was trying to let you know it was tongue in cheek.  That's the way I read it anyway.


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## ed4copies (Feb 4, 2013)

Geeze, Smitty!!!  I had no idea you were a genius!!!  Good catch!!


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## longbeard (Feb 6, 2013)

Good video Ed, i use my nova chuck with a scrap piece mounted in the jaws with a piece of sticky back sandpaper and a punch as you do to fit the tube. Never really thought about the mt thing. 
Curtis, the faceplate is also a good idea, and your right, it dont get used that much if at all.
One idea, leads to another. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## edicehouse (Feb 6, 2013)

I am going to print this out and bring to the MAPG, maybe see a battle royal.  Try to catch some of the blanks or kits being thrown back and forth.


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## CharlesJohnson (Feb 6, 2013)

Hi folks. Great video.  I did some thing similar.  Just a deferent route.  I drilled/threaded a block.  Reinforced the threads with CA.  Rounded and reduced the other end.  Glued in a 1/4" bolt.Cut off the head.Use sleeves(sp) for the different tube sizes as needed. Slide a peice of sand paper over the rod. Works great!       Thanks for pointing out that 120 grit is alright. My 220 and even 180 are to slow.  Enloyed all the deferant ideas.  Thanks folks.


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## joefyffe (Feb 6, 2013)

a 3/4 dowell or turned (ugly) blank in a collet chuck is great too


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## ed4copies (Feb 6, 2013)

There is a theme that I should probably mention:

I am trying to do everything on my lathe, WITHOUT using tools that are costly.  Yes, I own half a dozen scroll chucks.  I have plenty of faceplates.  But, I am attempting to show those who are just starting out HOW they can do all the procedures on their lathe WITHOUT buying additional STUFF.

One exception:  I DID buy a whole bag of 1" x 8tpi nuts.  So, don't be surprised if you see a $1 faceplate soon (plywood ain't free you know!!)

But I DO appreciate all the alternative methods----shows the new guys that there are MANY ways to accomplish any ONE task!!

Thanks,
Ed


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## LagniappeRob (Feb 6, 2013)

DANG!!   I saw another video a couple weeks ago (think it was Ed's too) where almost the same process was being done but the sandpaper side was a block in a chuck. I thought to myself I could do that but attach it to a 1x8 nut (find one of those at Lowes or Home Depot!) instead of breaking out the chuck.  Now this shows up... day late, dollar short.


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## Haynie (Feb 6, 2013)

Tried it.  Had a problem.  Can someone tell me what I did wrong

The sand paper gummed up with melted PR so there was heat generated.  I did not force and hold the blank on the paper.  I thought I used a light touch.  I used 80 grit instead of 120.  Just one more problem to deal with.


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## Smitty37 (Feb 6, 2013)

ed4copies said:


> There is a theme that I should probably mention:
> 
> I am trying to do everything on my lathe, WITHOUT using tools that are costly.  Yes, I own half a dozen scroll chucks.  I have plenty of faceplates.  But, I am attempting to show those who are just starting out HOW they can do all the procedures on their lathe WITHOUT buying additional STUFF.
> 
> ...


I watched the video but it looked like a MT2 and my lathe uses a MT1 so now I have to figure out how it could work on my machine.  Ed you have to stop confusing me.....


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## micharms (Feb 6, 2013)

Since I haven't been using my pendant jig that I bought from a member here for anything else I turned it into my facing rig. That way I can move the plate around to use different parts of the self stick sandpaper. I buy large 8-10 inch 80 grit pads so I can cut a bunch of pieces to fit so when It does become time to change I have a ready supply. I screw the jig on the headstock and use the proper size transfer punch in a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock.

Michael


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## ed4copies (Feb 6, 2013)

Smitty37 said:


> ed4copies said:
> 
> 
> > There is a theme that I should probably mention:
> ...




Sorry Smitty---no home-made way to do it for an MT1!!

I will sell you one though!!!


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