# Koko Retro



## workinforwood (May 31, 2008)

This is a Kokopelli, scrolled in alternate ivory by Dupont.  The Koko only goes half way through, thus the clip on the backside.  Difficult to control the ghost effect of black inside semi translucent white.  I painted the inside edges white before installing the inlace which did eliminate most of the ghosting.  Requires alot of touch-up work while turning, but well worth the effort in my opinion.


----------



## holmqer (May 31, 2008)

Very nice, I always like Kokopelli and he looks great on the alt ivory


----------



## wdcav1952 (May 31, 2008)

Very nice inlace work!!  Which corian color is that, Glacier White?  It is a very nice color for your inlace.


----------



## guts (May 31, 2008)

Is Corian and Alternate Ivory the same thing? don't remember using Alternate Ivory before,Very nice looking pen Jeff.


----------



## workinforwood (May 31, 2008)

No, it's apparantly not the same thing as alternate ivory, but this is listed as ivory from an ivory corian countertop.  And Cav is part right, because that block of corian it's resting on is Glacier white. It's tough to tell in the photo, but you can see a slight difference in that the pen is more off white like a tooth, like the most possible slightest tinge of brown. It's only my opinion that if it is listed as ivory, and it isn't real ivory, that it is an alternate ivory, as I interpret the definition of fake ivory. I do not want to have a alternate ivory debate, as that would be pointless.  Everyone is welcome to their own opinion on that. If I do it again some time, I think I'll go with the rice white as it is more solid in color yet has a bit more character to it.  I was born to scroll...thanks for the comments.


----------



## tmhawk (May 31, 2008)

Jeff, 
Incredibly great job. Excellent. (Big Kokopelli fan)  What do you mean "scrolled"? How do you scroll a pen blank? (Sorry if I'm asking an obvious questions).
That pen is way cool.


----------



## PaulDoug (May 31, 2008)

The answer can't be too obvious, I am wondering the same thing.

Beautiful pen.


----------



## johnnycnc (May 31, 2008)

Nice job,no.. GREAT job on your pen!
The koko man looks fantastic,you were
born to scroll.[8D]
Nice color with your alternate ivory.


----------



## ed4copies (May 31, 2008)

Jeff,

I also don't know what "scrolling" is in this context.  But, it is a BEAUTIFUL pen.  I see why you wanted to enter, I still encourage you to start a "corian contest".  It is whiter than alt ivory, if your pic and my terminal are seeing the actual color.

I am assuming that "scrolling" is some kind of carving with a Dremel tool??  In any event, it appears to be beyond my skill set!!!

Great work!  And thanks for the e-mail earlier today!!


----------



## OKLAHOMAN (May 31, 2008)

Jeff, that is just a great looking job I'm very very very impressed[].


----------



## Dalecamino (May 31, 2008)

Nice piece of work Jeff ! [8D]


----------



## workinforwood (Jun 1, 2008)

Like I say, it's not as bright white as it appears to be in the picture.  It's cut out with a scroll saw.  You draw it on, drill a small hole and cut it out.  Then you paint the inside walls white.  Tape backside and push inlace into hole.  Clean up blank and then glue another piece to the backside.  Mark center and drill.  Koko on one side only.


----------



## PaulDoug (Jun 1, 2008)

Maybe I'm dense, let's see if I understant.  You are saying the top blank is actually two pieces glued together?  One piece has the inlay and the other piece it the back.  How do you hide the seam?

I've done some scroll work and I have to say, that is some fine scroll work.  I don't think I can do that small!


----------



## toolcrazy (Jun 1, 2008)

Beautiful pen. Great work.


----------



## ed4copies (Jun 1, 2008)

> _Originally posted by PaulDoug_
> 
> Maybe I'm dense, let's see if I understant.  You are saying the top blank is actually two pieces glued together?  One piece has the inlay and the other piece it the back.  How do you hide the seam?
> 
> I've done some scroll work and I have to say, that is some fine scroll work.  I don't think I can do that small!



I BELIEVE you have hit the nail on the head!!!  OBVIOUSLY&lt; correct me if I am wrong, Jeff!!!

Laminating corian is really amazing.  RARELY can you see a seam.  "Standard" corian depth is half an inch, so if you want to make larger pens, glue together with CA (or other).  Seams usually disappear (unless there is a LOT of pattern in the color you choose).

Again, GREAT work Jeff!!!!!!!!!

I have never seen this technique!


----------



## workinforwood (Jun 1, 2008)

That is exactly right.  You can see the seam but only a bit.  The only corian joint adhesive I have is for arctic white, not ivory white, so it shows a bit.  There is an adhesive for every color, so it is possible to make the joint completely invisible to the untrained eye.  I do not have the adhesive gun, which is $250, so I have to mix by hand which is difficult to get the ratio right and the adhesive begins to set almost instantly so work time is only seconds.  If I had the gun, even with the color being slightly off, the seam would be even more invisible than it is currently.  Because I have to mix it and apply it, it sets before I can completely clamp it which means I can't squeeze the joint tight enough for the perfect seam.  Corian adhesive through the gun actually mixes the two components before it comes out so it can be applied directly to the seam and clamped imediately.  There's alot of heat involved which also melts the two corian pieces together, so it's a combo of glue and welding that takes place.  Then to stock all the colors of adhesive would cost a fortune as well and it does expire, although refrigerating extends the life.  If done professionally, which isn't me, the bond is unbreakable.  And if there is alot of pattern in the corian, the seam is actually more invisible.

I made two blanks, sending the other to a friend.  he'll have his work cut out.  It's not an easy pen to turn and requires alot of touch up to the Kokopelli portion.  Best thing to do before touching up the inlace is to wet sand the blank to a super shine.  Then pick at any defects like air bubbles or specks of paint that may have got into the inlace.  Then apply a thin coat of inlace over top.  The inlace won't stick to the corian because the corian will be too smooth.  Just wipe it even, let it set and come back and re-wet sand it all.  The inlace will be hard when dry and will polish just like corian.

Corian will make better bushings than delrin.  It's more ridgid and when polished, CA will not stick to it...er well, it will be there, but when dry it will push right off with no effort at all. Delrin is the same way, but does require a bit of picking action to get the CA off.  So, I say it's better in my opinion, but hardly by much.

Otherwise, yes it is not easy to cut a Kokopelli, and it takes two steps to do so or the small piece in the center will fall out.  It's a very small picture as you can tell.  But, I can cut much smaller, such as tiny 3D animals with ears and legs seperated and a tail so they look like tiny carvings half the size of your baby fingernail by simply holding a small piece of wood to a scroll saw blade between my fingers.  Just a lucky, but useless talent of mine.

Thanks for the great comments.


----------



## devowoodworking (Jun 1, 2008)

Sorry but that's hardly a "useless talent", man I wish I had your talent, great work!!


----------



## stevebuk (Jun 1, 2008)

got to ditto what the others have said jeff, i admired your scrollwork in the 'other' forum, and now admire your pens, thank you.
steve


----------



## penmanruss (Jun 1, 2008)

have to just throw in my 2 cents worth; that is an amazing job on that inset, shows real skill to do that type of fine scroll work: you should be proud of your accomplishment.  It certainly inspires me to try and combine scrolling and turning in my own work!


----------



## PaulDoug (Jun 1, 2008)

Jeff your "worthless" talent sure is creating a lot of deserved attention.  I have another question, if I may, What do you use for inlace?  Is it corian cut to fit or something you can pour into the cut out?  Can you use CA to glue the pieces together?  I guess that three questions.  Sorry.  I just really like your pen, love to scroll and make pens, I'd like to be good enough at both some day to combine like you did.


----------



## VisExp (Jun 1, 2008)

Jeff

I've followed your posts here and on scrollsawer (where I lurk occasionally) and have to say that your work, in all aspects of woodworking, but in particular in scroll, is an inspiration!


----------



## karlkuehn (Jun 1, 2008)

Absolutely wonderful inlay! good thinking with the paint, too. Great job!


----------



## Randy_ (Jun 1, 2008)

> _Originally posted by workinforwood_
> 
> .....Corian will make better bushings than delrin.  It's more ridgid and when polished, CA will not stick to it...er well, it will be there, but when dry it will push right off with no effort at all.....



The above comment puzzles me a little since there have been many posts on IAP recommending CA as the adhesive of choice for gluing up pieces of Corian to make pen blanks??


----------



## bitshird (Jun 1, 2008)

Terrific pen Jeff, the happiness bringer is too cool, [8D][8D]


----------



## workinforwood (Jun 2, 2008)

For Paul and Randy...

Yes, CA can glue corian together. Can glue delrin together as well.  You have to rough it up good and then clean off the dust before you'll have any adhesion.  When polished, CA will not stick.  CA is a poor choice though.  One drop on the floor, set pen hard on counter and bond will eventually break.  Most Epoxies are even worse than CA, especially when drilling as they heat up and the joint pops, but otherwise they have the same issue as CA, drop pen, joint breaks.  Gorilla Glue is a heck of a good corian bond though.  And of course Corian Adhesive is the number one choice.  No matter what is used, surface must be well scratched and very clean.  Don't know that CA is number one choice for pen makers to make corian pens.  I used to, but most of my corian pens with CA break over time, all my gorilla glue pens hold fast.

Inlace is poured into cut.  You can buy liquid corian, but that's way expensive.  I use inlace from CSUSA, works great.  Smash it in hole best you can.  I tape bottom of blank so can't pour right through.  I tape blank to saw, turn on and let the vibrations help the inlace get in the tight spots.  Be better if I had a pressure pot, I'd just cast it.


----------



## PaulDoug (Jun 2, 2008)

Jeff, thanks again for taking the time to post all this info.  I'm going to try it one day, after I get some more experience.


----------



## desertyellow (Jun 2, 2008)

Great looking pen.
Your craftsmanship shines through.

Tony
Las Vegas


----------



## Jarheaded (Jun 2, 2008)

I have the Dupont manual for working with Corian, and they recommend CA for joining Corian to Corian or for joining it to wood or metal, but all that aside, you did a beautiful job with the scroll work on the pen.


----------



## Randy_ (Jun 2, 2008)

> _Originally posted by workinforwood_
> 
> That is exactly right.  You can see the seam but only a bit.  The only corian joint adhesive I have is for arctic white, not ivory white, so it shows a bit.....



Maybe you could post a picture of the side of the pen with the seam so we could see what it looks like?


----------



## workinforwood (Jun 3, 2008)

Well, I don't know that  you'll be able to see it in a photo.  It's not a huge seam, and definitely not detracting from the pen.  solid light colors like whites, pinks and creams are the most difficult to seam.  Keep in mind I am far from any sort of corian expert.  I only speak from my experiences of making about 50 corian pens and a few other items as to what works for me, and properties that I notice.  You simply take a nice new shiny piece of corian and put it on the counter.  You can pour CA all day on it and it won't stick, nothing sticks when it is polished.  Great thing to have in the shop as a work surface when gluing in tubes.  You rough it up and it CA sticks, but CA is brittle, so don't be surprised if the pen falls apart or the tube comes loose inside the pen after using it awhile.  That's what I have discovered.  Nothing like having a customer pick up a pen and wanting it, then finding the tube spin inside the pen, or a piece of corian fall off the pen...I had both experiences.  Makes them not want one of your pens.  I mostly use gorilla glue and have not had any problems with that.





Thanks everyone for the great comments too.


----------



## Randy_ (Jun 3, 2008)

Thanks.  I can't see it on my computer.


----------



## workinforwood (Jun 3, 2008)

you can see it.  Look at the cap, right close to the center, just a few nose hairs lower than the center it's there.  It's pretty minor, but it's there.


----------



## PaulDoug (Jun 3, 2008)

Jeff, I think maybe I see it, looks like a thin line that goes right into the glare at the lower end of the tube.  If that is not it than it sure doesn't show up on my screen.  

Where do you got your Corian?

How do you keep the Corian from melting as you cut it on the scroll saw, or is that a problem?

Oh my, there he goes with more questions....


----------



## workinforwood (Jun 3, 2008)

Yep, that's the seam, and no it doesn't melt, although at high speed it might.


----------

