# Car clear coat



## Monty (Aug 30, 2005)

I was told this past weekend that the automotive clear coat finish by PPG was very high in solids and excellenct for UV protection and that it worked very well as a pen finish. Thought I'd ask for a little input before I try it.  Anyone hear of this or have any comments?


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## Tangboy5000 (Aug 30, 2005)

I've never heard of it for this type of thing, but there is no reason in the world it wouldn't work.  Although, unless you already have an air compressor and HVLP gun it might be kind of expensive to try out.  I don't like clear coat out of a spray can, it just doesn't work as well, but if you want to try it would be perfect for trial runs.


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## alamocdc (Aug 30, 2005)

Mannie, I've actually been considering it. I just don't know if mine is still good. I used to use it for my miniature diecast customs and man is it HARD. I'm talking about the 3-part stuff. It dries chrystal clear, and the catalyst hardens it like epoxy. I would use an air brush to apply it on pens though. A few words of caution with this stuff. 1) Proper ventalation is a must if you want to continue to think clearly throughout the day (DAMHIKT), 2) don't mix up more than you think you'll need or be able to apply in about 20 minutes... it sets up FAST!, 3) let it cure for at least 24 hours before polishing. This stuff is quite expensive (at least it was the last time I bought it)... about 3 to 4 times what we pay for our traditional finishes.


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## DWK5150 (Aug 30, 2005)

PPG actually does not really approve of any of there products for use on wood.  The solvents cause the grain to swell over time but it doesnt happen right away.  I custom build electric guitars and I have been using PPG products for years on them.  But the stuff is expensive and you do have to mix it with a catalyst and a hardner as well in order to use it.  Sounds to me like a big headache to go through and a expensive one to if you are just going to experiment.


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## alamocdc (Aug 30, 2005)

I should probably be a little more precise as well. My experience is with Valspar (House of Kolor) UC-35, 3-part clear coat polyurethane. While I have found no info saying not to use it on wood, it was made to cover properly PRIMERED auto bodies. It is important to note that many of the glues, etc. we use on pens are similar, if not identical to, those used in the auto body industry. If I were to try this, and I probably will if my supply is still good, I would only do it after a few good coats of lacquer based sanding sealer had been applied. Also because of the speed at which this sets up and the trouble involved with clean up, I would make sure that I had a number of pens ready to shoot at once. You should have enough time to three or four coats (plenty) on 4 to 6 pens before you run out of time. Using a gun instead of an air brush will put more clear into the air and on surrounding surfaces than on your pens... in other words, WASTE. As already stated, this stuff is expensive. It starts at about $65/gallon and that is just for the clear. We haven't even addressed the cost of the activator and hardener yet and these are necessary. I'm not trying to talk anyone out of trying, or using it. I'm just relaying my experience with this type of finish. All of the above is why I haven't yet bothered checking the freshness of my supply.


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## DWK5150 (Aug 30, 2005)

Well I used to sell PPG paints and also worked at a hotrod shop and I have spoke with PPG about using there product on wood and they adivise against it but Fender uses PPG paints to finish there bodies.  PPG HOK dupont they are all the same make up.  PPG could only really recomd one thing to me for use but they still adivised against it and that is there DP line of primers cause it is the lowest amount of solvents in it but over time it still swells the wood.


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## DWK5150 (Aug 30, 2005)

I dont know that I would use a Polyurethane over a laquer though because most laquers sweat for a while and they will lift the polyurethane.  Experienced with that happening created a big mess and tried to rush a job.


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## alamocdc (Aug 30, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DWK5150_
> <br />I dont know that I would use a Polyurethane over a laquer though because most laquers sweat for a while and they will lift the polyurethane.  Experienced with that happening created a big mess and tried to rush a job.



The HOK tech data sheet says not to use UC-35 over anything that can't be coated with lacquer. I take that to mean that anything you can cover with lacquer, you can cover with US-35. I know it wasn't developed for wood, but this should still include a lacquer based product.


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## DWK5150 (Aug 30, 2005)

You might be able to use it but you must make sure though that it is dry cause if it not the laquer wont be able to escape and will cause the finish to lift.


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## Monty (Aug 30, 2005)

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll stear clear of this method. Sounds like a lot of trouble.
But hey, don't let me stop the dialogue, that why I posted it. Something else may come out of this.


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## DWK5150 (Aug 30, 2005)

I might be doing a paint job this weekend and if I do I might bring a pen along and well clear it and see what happens but I also think htough that the finish will end up to thick and you will feel it once you assemble the pen.


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