# Cocobolo finish problem



## RonSchmitt (Nov 11, 2008)

Have been using the Minwax finish from the library here with pretty good results,....  until this Cocobolo blank that WILL NOT dry. I forgot the sanding sealer the first try, so I sanded the Minwax off and put on a coat of sanding sealer. It seems to have dried fine, put on the Minwax and it remains tacky even after 48 hours. It is in the basement at about 60 degrees, so I expect it to take a while longer to cure, but 2 days and still tacky?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ron


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## wdcav1952 (Nov 11, 2008)

Ron, that is a bit unusual, but I agree the temp may have something to do with it.  Can you put the cocobolo blank over your hot water heater, or somewhere else near a gentle heat source?


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## GBusardo (Nov 11, 2008)

Ron,  I don't remember seeing a Minwax article in the library.  Is the Minwax a poly?  Can it be a problem with that? Maybe its old?  Can try the finish on a different wood, that would sure narrow it down.  I know cocobola is a very oily wood, maybe that's the problem?  i know you used a sanding sealer, but it's very possible you took off the majority of the sealer sanding it.  I know there are a lot of maybes in there, but I would try to finish a different type of wood first, before I would go blaming it on the 60 degree temp of the shop.


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## bvanwie (Nov 12, 2008)

I had a similar problem with macassar ebony and a CA finish.  The finish wouldn't stick to the entire pen.  (Not tacky, just wouldn't take hold.)  I fixed my problem by trying the Enduro finish.  I got a trial size from Bear Tooth Woods.  It does take longer to finish a pen with it (well, longer than CA, maybe not longer than poly), but it gives better results on oily woods.


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## RonSchmitt (Nov 12, 2008)

Cav: Good idea, will put it closer to a heating duct.

Gary: The Minwax tutorial is on the front page. I have used it on other woods with great results.


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## Skye (Nov 13, 2008)

Would it help to wipe it down with some DNA first to pull the oil off the surface?


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## cyborgcnc (Nov 13, 2008)

Bingo....I think Skye has it!

Using DNA on oily woods (olive wood, Macassar Ebony, Cocobolo etc) is the way to go.  I never had an issue with CA sticking to any of these woods, after a DNA rub.  Also, use thin CA for the first two coats.  It will penetrate the fibers very well, and provide a base coat for the rest of the finish.

After this, use 400/600 grit and "level sand" the first 3 coats (lightly) and then go to a regular BLO finish schedule etc.

never had an issue doing it this way....


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## GBusardo (Nov 14, 2008)

Ron, Can you please let us know what you find?


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## RonSchmitt (Nov 14, 2008)

GBusardo said:


> Ron, Can you please let us know what you find?


 
Will do, I have a test piece in the house now. Problem with that is I have a dog, cat, and cockatoo that all spread fur + feathers into the air. If the test dries well, I will have to cut a heat vent into the shop area to heat it.


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## wdcav1952 (Nov 15, 2008)

Ron,

Someone, Russ IIRC, made a heating cabinet with an old dish washer with a 100 watt bulb in it.  Again, IIRC, it was useful in speeding the setting of lacquer finishes.


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## RonSchmitt (Nov 15, 2008)

DUH!!! 
I have an "easy bake oven on steroids" sitting in the garage. Square plywood box with 100 watt bulb in it I used for drying wood from a shipwreck.
Will try that.
( I hate when I get those brain cramps:biggrin


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## mwildes (Nov 27, 2008)

*Oily woods*

For what it's worth, here are a couple of my experiences:

1)  Cocobolo & Bocote desk set, see attached pics.  I first attempted wipe on poly, and it never did dry on the cocobolo hearts.  I attempted several coats, sanding with 0000 steel wool in between to no avail.  I'm in Georgia, so my shop temperatures were warm.  I contacted Minwax, who actually recommended Waterlox for oily woods.  I tried it, and it worked beautiful on both the cocobolo and the bocote base.  I've used it for some of my pens with success.

2)  Wenge & Bolivian Rosewood desk set, see pics.  I had the same problem with the rosewood base, but this time it would not dry (completely) with EITHER wipe on ply nor the Waterlox.  But I did notice that if I wiped the Waterlox off after 24 hours, a very thin layer actually soaked into the wood.  So I wiped it dry, let it sit two more days so I was sure it was dry, then polished it using Minwax furniture paste wax.  Again, the final product was quite nice.  I used the wWaterlox on the wenge hearts with no problems, but wenge is not oily.

So, I think bottom line with these exotic oily woods is to try a number of products and methods.  Then post them here so we can use them too!  Good luck and let us know your outcomes.


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## TellicoTurning (Nov 28, 2008)

RonSchmitt said:


> Have been using the Minwax finish from the library here with pretty good results,....  until this Cocobolo blank that WILL NOT dry. I forgot the sanding sealer the first try, so I sanded the Minwax off and put on a coat of sanding sealer. It seems to have dried fine, put on the Minwax and it remains tacky even after 48 hours. It is in the basement at about 60 degrees, so I expect it to take a while longer to cure, but 2 days and still tacky?
> Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Ron



Ron,
I haven't had any problems with cocobolo, but I did some bottle stoppers from Bocote... I use mineral spirits to wipe down most of my turnings, something I read on one of the threads here or on another site... I used wipe on poly as a finish and after 3 days in my shop, in the summer, the stoppers still felt sticky/tacky... the other woods I used were perfectly dry.  I ran everything through a buffing system (my home made Beall) with all three waxes and the finish was perfectly smooth and felt dry...  I think Bocote is a rosewood like cocobolo and just attributed it to the density and oils in the woods... 

I use CA on my pens and game calls, so haven't noticed this on them.


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