# Beginer CA Finish



## Sean Troy (Jan 8, 2009)

I'm sure it has been talked to death but I have never used Ca as a finish be somewhat new to pen turning. How is this process done? Can rennisance wax be used on top of the CA finish or even need to be used? Thanks for any help, Sean


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## W3DRM (Jan 8, 2009)

Sean Troy said:


> I'm sure it has been talked to death but I have never used Ca as a finish be somewhat new to pen turning. How is this process done? Can rennisance wax be used on top of the CA finish or even need to be used? Thanks for any help, Sean


 
Sean, take a look in the Library index (http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1488) for a listing of numerous articles and videos on applying a CA finish. That would be your best bet at learning how and what to do. And yes, you can use ren wax on top of a CA finish without any probles at all.


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## Sean Troy (Jan 8, 2009)

Thank you very much, Sean


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## JimB (Jan 8, 2009)

You can also go to the Finishing Forum (top of this page click on Forums). There are numerous threads about this.


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## rick_lindsey (Jan 8, 2009)

My newbie experience with CA was very simple (after I pitched my old "thin" CA and bought some new stuff that was actually thin).  Turn, Sand, MM a little bit, then start applying thin CA with a paper towel.  Couple drops on the towel and rub, run a "bead" of glue along the length of the blank while holding the paper towel against it... whatever, they both worked for me.  Do that a bunch of times (usually until the fumes start to get to me) and then step out of the room for a few minutes to clear my head and let the CA finish curing.  Come back and run through all 9 MM, voila!

YMMV of course and there are tons of articles and threads on the CA finish.  I believe it was Russ who started a thread a few weeks back that pointed out that the CA finish is as simple as sanding the wood smoth, slathering on a bunch of CA (or CA and blo, whatever floats your boat), and sanding it smooth again.  voila, finished!

-Rick


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## marcruby (Jan 8, 2009)

I'm with Russ.  My own observation is that it is the people with the most complex processes that show up later complaining about problems.  And then they add more steps to solve the problems.


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## woody350ep (Jan 8, 2009)

I totally agree Marc.  I had quite a complex method when I started doing mine, and ended up trying to add more steps to fix it.  It wasn't until I completely changed my tune about it that I realized how much extra I was doing.  Now it takes me less than 1/2 the time it used to, and looks twice as good.


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## Sean Troy (Jan 8, 2009)

How does Mylands friction polish with a wax top coat seem to hold up over time?


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## hunter-27 (Jan 8, 2009)

Sean Troy said:


> How does Mylands friction polish with a wax top coat seem to hold up over time?


Poorly


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## rdunn12 (Jan 8, 2009)

hunter-27 said:


> Poorly


 
And may I add VERY poorly.


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## dalemcginnis (Jan 8, 2009)

Sean:
As you read the threads on Ca finishing you'll quickly discover there are as many ways of doing it as there are turners. Read through them to get the general idea then try different ways till you find what works for you.  As I read some posts on it I am amazed at how many steps some have in their process compared to mine, but that's what works for them so I'm not going to knock it.


Of course, if you really want to know how to do it right you have to make sure your lathe is set so your facing north when your at it, then hold the paper towel in your right hand while you apply the CA to the blank then switch the towel to your left hand while keeping it moving on the blank.  Oh, and don't forget, your tongue must be firmly planted in your cheek the whole time.:biggrin:


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## Rudy Vey (Jan 8, 2009)

Sean, a turner with your experience will master CA finish very quickly. Check out several threads in the last couple of months regarding CA finishes. There were many hot discussions. My way is to use thin CA, easy way for a lasting finish. I believe there is way too much thought into it.....and some people here are using a very elaborate technique.


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## leehljp (Jan 8, 2009)

One caveat that the "simple finish" guys are overlooking is that in cold weather, the CA, even with simple applications doesn't act the same as in warm and hot weather. Anything below 60° seems to begin affecting the way finish sets up or builds up. Makes sure the room is at least 60 and 70 is even better. 

If you are working in warmer temps and having problems, then it is obviously not the temp.


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## bcoyne (Jan 8, 2009)

Friction polish is good only for your very first pen. The one you never show anyone. Then stop using it. I only use it when I teach the local Boy Scouts to turn. 

I did two little tests. First test was friction vs CA on a pen. Top was friction polish and lower end was CA. The Friction wore off in less then 6 months. CA still looking good. 2nd test was I turned two pen blanks. Again with each product and carried them around in my pocket with my change for about a month. (what little bit I have left after ordering pen supplies). The friction looks very poor. The CA has a few slight marks, but is looking good. (8 coats with thin CA, no activator either)I also top with Renissance wax to help reduce finger prints.

Lots of reading links to learn CA finishing.


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## Sean Troy (Jan 9, 2009)

Thanks all for the help. Looks like I better order some more CA. I already let my girls know that if they get stuck to something using CA, I can get them unstuck so they will be prepared in case of and not freak out. Sean


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## marcruby (Jan 9, 2009)

Most woodworkers are acutely aware that temperature swings can raise havoc in a woodshop.  I live in Michigan - wild humidity and temperature changes are part of life.  The only complexity in my process is whether I glue and finish in the main shop or take it into my basement shoplet.  What add 5 steps when all I have to do is control the temperature?

What I've found is that by minimizing the steps I have a process where the primary variable is how much time each step takes.  I don't think it's a personal failure to wait a day or two for a layer of finish to set properly if that's what it takes.

Marc



leehljp said:


> One caveat that the "simple finish" guys are overlooking is that in cold weather, the CA, even with simple applications doesn't act the same as in warm and hot weather. Anything below 60° seems to begin affecting the way finish sets up or builds up. Makes sure the room is at least 60 and 70 is even better.
> 
> If you are working in warmer temps and having problems, then it is obviously not the temp.


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## JimB (Jan 9, 2009)

Sean, remember, safety glasses are an absolute must when using CA. Faceshield is better so you are not cleaning CA of your girls faces. Rubber gloves are a good idea as well.


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## marcruby (Jan 9, 2009)

I have to regular use pens - one is maple with friction polish and the other is cocobolo with CA as a finish.  They are two of the first pens I ever made.  The maple pen gets an occasional dab of wax, and looks fine with a nice patina developing.  The cocobolo has accumulated all kinds of wear marks and, frankly, looks like poop.  

It really comes down to what you expect from a piece of wood.  I like shiny, but I also like a natural looking finish that CA can't duplicate.

Marc




bcoyne said:


> Friction polish is good only for your very first pen. The one you never show anyone. Then stop using it. I only use it when I teach the local Boy Scouts to turn. QUOTE]


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## rdunn12 (Jan 9, 2009)

Sean Troy said:


> Thanks all for the help. Looks like I better order some more CA. I already let my girls know that if they get stuck to something using CA, I can get them unstuck so they will be prepared in case of and not freak out. Sean


 
Go to Lowes and in the glue section they have these big packs of Duro CA.I think it comes with 8 or so of the 3 gram tubes,give it a try for your CA finish.Not thin and not medium,sort of an in between.It is a cheap way to learn and produces great results.When done properly of course.


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## Sean Troy (Jan 9, 2009)

rdunn12 said:


> Go to Lowes and in the glue section they have these big packs of Duro CA.I think it comes with 8 or so of the 3 gram tubes,give it a try for your CA finish.Not thin and not medium,sort of an in between.It is a cheap way to learn and produces great results.When done properly of course.


 
Shoot, I was just there today and didn't see the post. Of course I don't mind going back  I wouold assume sanding the pens removes any CA buildup on the bushings?


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## leehljp (Jan 10, 2009)

marcruby said:


> Most woodworkers are acutely aware that temperature swings can raise havoc in a woodshop.
> 
> Marc



Sean had only 10 posts at this posting. An acutely aware reader easily see that it was not addressed to the acutely aware woodworker, since they didn't post the question. I think most people new to CA finish will probably be looking for any and all possibilities. :wink:


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