# Instructional Videos - Question



## Focushere (Feb 4, 2011)

Does anyone know of any Instructional Videos that show how to do tap & dye work on Acrylic? I wish some of the better pen makers here would post videos for us newbies. I would like to learn how to thread my own pens. Any Mentors up for it?


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## bensoelberg (Feb 4, 2011)

This thread helped me get a better understanding of taps and dies in general.  http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59693

Having said, that I would still love to see some sort of video demonstration.  Sometimes, it's just easier to see it done.


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## Focushere (Feb 5, 2011)

Having said, that I would still love to see some sort of video demonstration.  Sometimes, it's just easier to see it done.[/quote]

I have always retained more by observation rather than reading. I guess that's just how my brain works. Come on.....someone must want to teach us this technique.


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## Chthulhu (Feb 5, 2011)

Unpowered tapping on drill press and lathe (starts at about 2:15):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTEra2ROUfU

This is for metal, but the process is the same for plastics; your taps should be very sharp, and some sort of lubricant that won't react with the plastic should be used. Dishwashing liquid is adequate if you're unsure of what will react, and washes out easily with water. For metals I use mineral oil or motor oil if I don't have any proper tapping fluid on hand (Tap Magic for preference: http://www.mcmaster.com/#tap-magic-cutting-fluids/=awjkkm ).

Using a die on the lathe is very similar, with the die held in a die holder (who'd a' thunk?) cutting an external thread on the part.

In either case a collet chuck is best as it gives a much better grip (and full-circle support of the part) than a three- or four-jaw chuck. When tapping plastic in a three-jaw chuck there's a tendency for the threaded hole to end up tighter between the jaws if the wall is relatively thin because the plastic will be pushed outward there by the pressure of the tap, then will spring back once the tap is removed. 

I try to do any internal threading as the second step (after boring the ID to size), then turn the OD afterward; that also allows me to make a threaded mandrel to fit preciesly in the bore to support it.


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## thewishman (Feb 5, 2011)

Thanks, Mike!!


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## Chthulhu (Feb 5, 2011)

De nada, Chris. I like your avatar, by the way. <G>

http://www.chthulhu.com/models/ace.html


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## ctubbs (Feb 7, 2011)

Good answers Mike.  I find that if a good collet chuck is not availble to hold the tube for internal threads, then wrapping it with fibered packing tape will help, but as you pointed out, cutting the threads inside the hole with as much material still on the outside as possible is the best way to go when possible.  For aluminum, I like plain water or with just a little Dawn for lube.  How would that work on PR or such?  Inquiring minds and such.
Charles


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## Chthulhu (Feb 7, 2011)

Charles, I haven't had an opportunity to cut any known PR yet; most of the plastics I've been working with have been material salvaged from old screwdriver handles, which *might* be vinylated polyester, but I have no way to confirm this. I've been using light mineral oil for threading the stuff (since hand tools should be oil resistant!) and have had no difficulties, though this plastic does cut pretty nicely without lubricants.


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## OOPS (Feb 7, 2011)

I just watched a friend of mine show me what is required to make threads for acrylic kitless pens.  He uses Pam cooking spray to lubricate the acrylic.


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## Chthulhu (Feb 7, 2011)

Original or butter-flavored? <G>


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