# CA over decal on nickle/brass...



## Florida Marine (Jul 9, 2012)

So I am struggling to get CA over a label on nickel and brass cartridge pens...

Started with one .308 that PTownSubbie sent me and two 30.06 from Sylvanite in nickel.

What I have learned...

The nickle is only a plating and comes off after you goof up a few times (DAMHIKT).

That CA doesn't adhere to brass or nickel very well, it tends to shear off in layers taking the decal with it.

That Ribanett (Larry) is a magician with his cart pens, hoping his arm is recovering from the accident.

I am running out of time to get the label sealed on my nickel 30.06 for my CO's change of command.

*Anyone suggest an alternative?*

Been down post knee surgery, just starting to be able to hobble about and hope to get to the lathe this weekend.


----------



## glycerine (Jul 9, 2012)

If you have time to mail it, you could have one of the laser guys "mark" it instead of using the decal...


----------



## KenV (Jul 9, 2012)

Cases need to be very very clean for anything to stick --  Clean of all waxes, oil, cleaners, polishes, buffing compounds etc.  That includes brasso, finger prints, or anythig else that might be a contaminant.  

Any chance you have been less than perfect in your case preparation??

Have you tried spray or dipped lacquer instead of CA --  Lacquer does stick to brass and nickle if they are clean.


----------



## Florida Marine (Jul 9, 2012)

I followed Larry's video and library guide to a T...  Used Acetone and then only handled it with nitrile gloves, so I am pretty sure its not contamination or a substance causing my grief.

glycerine, Larry's decal are 6 color printer and amazing detail/color...laser just can't match and and my commands logo is complex


----------



## Snowbeast (Jul 10, 2012)

Do you know anybody that paints cars?

I have used automotive clearcoat with good results when I had the same peeling issues with CA.


----------



## Jjartwood (Jul 10, 2012)

NAPA carries acrylic clear lacquer in a rattle can,Have you tried Brass Lacquer,
first decal and then CA, also I have used that shrink fit plastic tube (clear) but it looks kinda funky


----------



## Sylvanite (Jul 10, 2012)

You might want to try Duracoat.  It's a catalyzed finish that is quite resilient.  It isn't best at adhering to a polished surface, but I've had pretty good results.  My Duracoat has gone bad and I don't plan to order more, but you could ask USAFVET98.  Brian is a gunsmith and does Duracoat application.

Regards,
Eric


----------



## Jim Burr (Jul 10, 2012)

Les Elm did a tutorial on dipping the cartridge in WOP. A few dips in the pot may cure the problem.


----------



## Florida Marine (Jul 10, 2012)

Sylvanite said:


> You might want to try Duracoat.  It's a catalyzed finish that is quite resilient.  It isn't best at adhering to a polished surface, but I've had pretty good results.  My Duracoat has gone bad and I don't plan to order more, but you could ask USAFVET98.  Brian is a gunsmith and does Duracoat application.
> 
> Regards,
> Eric



I gunsmith....so am pretty familiar with Duracoat, but to set it you need heat.

Will putting the cartridge you made in heat affect it?


----------



## Sylvanite (Jul 10, 2012)

Florida Marine said:


> I gunsmith....so am pretty familiar with Duracoat, but to set it you need heat.
> 
> Will putting the cartridge you made in heat affect it?


Really?  The instructions I have for DuraCoat Clear do not include heat (just shake, mix, and spray).  I didn't use heat when I applied it.  In fact, that was why I tried DuraCoat.  I was looking for an alternative to powdercoating (where the heat needed darkens the copper).  Steve Lauer (the maker of DuraCoat) is the one who told me I could use it on metal and wood without baking.

I expect heating the shellcase would damage the decal.

Regards,
Eric


----------



## Florida Marine (Jul 10, 2012)

Sylvanite said:


> Florida Marine said:
> 
> 
> > I gunsmith....so am pretty familiar with Duracoat, but to set it you need heat.
> ...



110 for an hour to set it...

It may air dry also, I'd have to review the directions, have only used colored in the past.  Most of the gunsmith coatings use heat to set.

I was going to ask about clear coating with my powdercoat...but figured the heat would bake the decal as well.

I should be up and around tomorrow, going to hit an automotive store for a glance at the clear coats.

Duracoat clear only comes in satin also...


----------



## Sylvanite (Jul 10, 2012)

The DuraCoat I have is Gloss Clear.  It cures without heat, but I doubt 110F would harm anything.  Powdercoat, on the other hand requires 320F-450F (depending on the powder) for 20 minutes.  I'm pretty sure that would damage the decal.

The only downside I see to using DuraCoat Clear, is that it needs a scuffed surface for best adhesion.  Polished brass or nickel plating will weaken the finish some.  I still think it would be better than dipping lacquer or brass lacquer.  As I've said elsewhere, in my limited testing, DuraCoat Gloss Clear was second to powdercoat as a durable finish for shellcases.  It withstood everything except pocket-carry with keys.  The major reasons I don't use DuraCoat more often are it's high price and short shelf life.

If you're interested in an automotive finish, look for a 2-part urethane topcoat.  The catalyzed finishes (urethane, catalyzed lacquer, or conversion varnish) will all be more durable than any drying finish (spray lacquer or enamel).  I don't know which one DuraCoat is, but I suspect it may be a catalyzed lacquer.  It smells like it anyway.  If you use a curing finish rather than a drying finish, you'll have to use or discard the amount you mix, and clean your spray gun thoroughly before it sets.

I hope that helps,
Eric


----------



## Florida Marine (Jul 10, 2012)

Sylvanite said:


> The DuraCoat I have is Gloss Clear.



Found some in gloss clear...  31.95...youch!

autoshop clear...looking better


----------



## Sylvanite (Jul 10, 2012)

2oz DuraCoat Clear (flat, satin, or gloss) for $16.95 direct from Lauer Weaponry at Manufacturer of DuraCoat Firearm Finishes: DuraCoat Clear


----------



## Florida Marine (Jul 15, 2012)

Sprayed it with clear coat yesterday...missed this post!

See how it holds up, I also cast an Iwo Jima stamp with sand for the top and have a Colonel "chicken" Eagle clip ready for it.


----------

