# Carbide lathe tool



## rkent (May 9, 2012)

I am interested in purchasing a rougher and a finisher for pen work.  Which ones do you recommend?


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## corian king (May 9, 2012)

I purchased mine from a member on here.it is called the ROTONDO and it is all you need for roughing and finising. it is a great tool and the seller is really great to work with. He goes by: wood-of-one-kind.
Let me know what you think.


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## ctubbs (May 9, 2012)

My favorite is the Wood Chuck Bowl Pro from Ken Ferrell, bitshard.  Great tool and even better service.
Charles

PS You can find him here [SIZE=+2]www.woodchuck-tools.com[/SIZE]


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## el_d (May 9, 2012)

I use the Woodchuck with the radiused edge. Thats all nothing else. From roughing to final finish. Poly Clay to Tru-stone those carbide cutters will do it all. Just make sure they're sharp and your ready to start sanding at 600grit or MM.

I use that sucker for everypen I have made since I got it. I have even used it for my first bowl.


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## glycerine (May 9, 2012)

Have you considered making your own?  They're not hard if you have a grinder, file, drill press and taps...


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## sbell111 (May 10, 2012)

I second the 'make your own' suggestion.  It's a fun little project that will save you a considerable amount of money.


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## PenMan1 (May 10, 2012)

I have most of the carbide cutters. My favorite and "goto" tool for every pen is the Woodchuck Pen Pro with the R2 cutter.

 I try to derive my income from penmaking, so "reinventing the wheel" by making my own cutter is not feasible. I not sure that I could get it exactly right on my first attempt, so buying enough bar stock to make "2 or 3 different attempts" plus the time taken away from pen making doesn't make this a cheaper option for me.

I notice that you are a newer member, so I just assume that you are also a new turner, as well. Most new turners don't have the tooling or equipment to turn bar steel l. So to make your own cutter, you first have to buy a "tool to make the tool", bar stock and cutter heads 

For around $65 plus shipping, Woodchuck tools can have a cutter in your hands in 2 or 3 days. This tool uses a $6 or $7 replacement cutter, rather than the $15 -$20 replacement cutters of the tools used elsewhere.

Respectfully submitted.


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## snyiper (May 10, 2012)

You probably have everything you need tool wise to make one. Grinder or file will give the flat spot a center punch is nice but not a must a drill press is also nice but hand drill will do and a tap!!! Will take about a hour and some elbow grease and you made a tool!!!! There is something to be said about making a tool that does the job. Buy a screw some bits and a piece of flat stock and get to making one!!!


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## IPD_Mr (May 10, 2012)

We still have a supply, including some with or without handles. We are in no danger of running out for quite a while.


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## JohnGreco (May 10, 2012)

I love love LOVE my woodchuck! Rough with R2, finish with R4, then straight to 600 grit.


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## KenV (May 10, 2012)

Welcome -  

There are two styles of carbide cutting ends commonly used with pens.

Cup style cutters -- Hunter Hercules, and the Eliminator are two that come in smaller sizes nice for pen turning.  These use a very fine grain carbide and can be used in scrape, bevel following, and shear scraping cutting modes.

Flat scrapers --  There are several of these on the market, and a couple of them are noted above.  The EZ line has not been mentioned.   These tend to be uses as scrapers, but can be used to shear scrape (very fine whispy spiral shavings).   I personally like the PenPro but also have some of the EZ line.

If you make your own, please be sure to get the mounting screw with the insert.  Carbides, especially the fine grained ones are brittle and need the tight support of the mounting screw as a firm fit to the recess in the cutter.  The recess an screws are not standard across the board.  

Plan on using a fresh edge for fine finish cuts regardless of which brand you use.  The finish work diserves a nice fresh edge -- and after it is used for finish cuts for a while, you can move it over to roughing and use a new edge for finish work.   Sandord or similar markers will let you mark the edges for use.   I use very old edges for hogging wood, and especially bark or dirty wood.


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## rkent (May 10, 2012)

Thanks for the replies


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