# Pipe tamper parts?



## Skye

I don't want to ruin anyone's good thing, but I've been wanting to make pipe tampers for a few years now and I can't find a source for the foot/shaft. Does anyone know where to find these? I've seen people making them and they seem to be using the same supplier for some of it, so I know someone out there sells them, I just cant locate them.


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## ahoiberg

are you talking about the actual metal tamping part? if so, I just use 1/2 brass rod stock and turn a tenon on it to slip into the piece of acrylic or wood that forms the handle. or you may also be referring to a piece that screws in that has a poker on it. the one pipe tamper maker i talked to a while back said he taps and dies the threads onto brass and into the handle. i guess a short answer is i haven't heard of any place that actually sells tamper parts, i get the impression most are fabricated by the maker.


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## Woodlvr

I cannot remember who makes them but I asked this question last year and found out that his parts were custom made by him. Good luck in your search. If you do find some parts and do not mind sharing the source please post it for us.


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## Skye

I had a feeling some were turned.

I also had a feeling some were bought as it was threaded and had the poker built into it.

I'd be willing to turn my own if a jet mini can handle it. Not sure I dig the idea of wasting all that material, but that may be the only way.


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## maxwell_smart007

If you find a source, please let me know, as I've wanted one for a long while...

I currently use a roofing nail!  

Andrew


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## wdcav1952

Maybe do a search for members with pipemaker and such in their username.  Send a group PM to some of them.


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## Skye

Well, I had thought of that, but I didn't want to put anyone in the direct position to have to say "I'm not saying because I want to keep that a secret." Figured I'd take my chances with them running across the thread and giving input if they wanted. Just trying not to make someone have to be the 'bad guy'.


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## Nick

Skye
Try this
http://forum.pipes.org/~discus/discus/messages/26/41453.html?1167097782

Nick


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## ahoiberg

as far as the poker part goes, i did a little research into this a while ago and found little brass female thread inserts that you could buy the corresponding die for threading the tenon i spoke of in my first post. for the poker, you could use some thin stainless steel or brass and epoxy it in or something. you wouldn't have to waste too much material other than filing down a tenon for threading. that' what i'm going to do when i try out making a tamper with a poker in it. it might even be possible to tap the hole you drill for the tenon without a brass insert but it might wear out quicker... just some ideas i had, hopefully they'll help a little.


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## ahoiberg

oh yeah and i did mine on a jet mini and used a file to turn down the tenon on the brass. it took a while but i finally got there.


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## ldb2000

I use a Hunter hollowing tool to rough turn brass then switch to my skew and parting tool to finish . The jet has no problems turning brass and aluminum , just use lower speed and take light cuts .


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## pipecrafter

Ask a dozen guys who make tampers, and you'll get a dozen different answers.

I actually make them in a variety of ways.  Some are all wood, turned on the Jet Mini.  Some are all metal, turned on the South Bend 9c.  Some are pure freehands, ground away on the belt grinder.

On Friday I made one to go with a pipe from processed locust, then dyed it and polished it to get an interesting effect:






Another I made on Sunday has a briar "foot" and a piece of synthetic tortoise shell on top.  In htis case, the briar has a mortis about half an inch deep where the synthetic material's matching tenon is inserted and epoxied.  It's been paired with a pipe that has a similar finish, and a bit of the synthetic material as an accent piece on the shank.





You can make a tamper with a metal foot - but it's not strictly necessary.  I have a briar tamper that I made several years ago that I use daily.  About the only hint that it's that old is the patina on the body of the wood.  The foot, where it meets ash, has been blackened, but not charred, and most of that was in the first couple uses.

Guys that make tampers typically make all their own pieces.  There's not really a store to buy that kind of stuff.    If you do decide to use a brass or aluminum foot, be sure you use a mortis/tenon arrangement to help secure the foot, and be sure to use an epoxy that won't let go when it gets a little warm.


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## Skye

I'm not a woodworker, so you'll have to explain this mortis thing to me. Is it basically the same thing as a tenon?

Thanks for the info so far!


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## KenV

Mortise = Hole

Tenon = protruding part that fits into hole

Mortise and Tenon Joint = a tenon fit into a mortise.   Conventional wisdom is to leave a bit of space between the bottom of the mortise and the tenon to hold any excess glue that may be pushed ahead of the tenon.   

Threaded joints are a special version of this kind of joint.

Clock makers have been turning brass with steel tools free hand for decades/centuries.   Get a free machining brass and a high speed steel tool works.  Set the tool rest very close to the metal to avoid chatter.   Think of cutting the corner off of plumbing fittings to make ferrels on tool handles.  

The stuff that cuts off is called swarf and it attracts swarf fairies.    

The metal cutting can be addictive -- beware


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## pipecrafter

KenV said:


> The stuff that cuts off is called swarf and it attracts swarf fairies.



I've got a basement full of those darn things.  Every day they show up, right as I'm turning off the lights, and they knock my tools all around, and misplace my chuck keys.


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## arioux

Hi,

Is this what you are looking for ?.

If not, mabe you can ask them 

http://www.pipemakers.org/misc_products.htm

Or mabe use this ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRASS-CANE-TIP-...14&_trkparms=72:1205|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318


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## pipecrafter

Pipemakers' Emporium doesn't sell tamper parts - outside of acrylic rod stock that could be used for the body.  But if you do use acrylic, you have to use wood or metal for the foot.  That's not optional.


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## PenWorks

WHen I made mine, I used a 7mm tube, turned as a closed end and cut a tennon on the brass plug and epoxied into the tube. You should be able to turn the brass plug on your mini, brass is pretty soft. I did use my metal lathe though.


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## dogcatcher

Here is one that is a proto type of a brass one that I made for a friend.  This is all aluminum, the "blank" was 1/2" rod that was drilled out threaded and the pick was 3/32" steel rod.  All the pieces screw together.  I wish I had a photo of the final brass version, it was a lot better looking than this one.  It was all made on the Jet mini or my or my Delta, using collet chuck, Jacobs chuck, and a die holder to get everything lined up.

Marvin


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## pipeyeti

I make all my own pieces including the picks from rod stock. here is a pic of the internals. Brass is a solid piece from base to top. The picks top is brass with a stainless pick that is madefrom 1/8 rod.


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## Skye

pipeyeti said:


> I make all my own pieces including the picks from rod stock. here is a pic of the internals. Brass is a solid piece from base to top. The picks top is brass with a stainless pick that is madefrom 1/8 rod.



Wow, those are nice. The pick is a great idea but I think the threading would be the death of me. I've yet to thread anything and until I've tried it, it seems like such a daunting task to learn.


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## pipeyeti

There is another well known tamper maker that uses hardware/parts from perfume pen kits, He tells people when asked that they are parts from parts but they are perfume pen parts. If you look at a perfume pen kit and understand that the parts and tubes can be put together in different combinations than whats in the instructions, you will figure it out.


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## Skye

Ah, gotcha. I'd be worried it wouldn't have that sturdy feel than a solid one. 

I may have to look into that though, I think I have a spare perfume pen kit...

Thanks for the tip!


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## pipeyeti

its only the threaded portions that are used. You will have to fabricate a pick to replace the felt applicator portion, and then something for a base( brass, alum, or briar)


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