# Dyed pen



## jimr (Feb 2, 2005)

I showed a pic of a pen I dyed red on the turning page last week. It turned out better than I had expected. So, I thought using a holly blank would be even better since it is almost white. Well, I was disappointed. It did not dye as evenly as the bland spalted maple one in last weeks picture. The uneven color is more pronounced than it shows in this pic and the color is not as vivid. I think that is because the wood is so white it makes the color a bit pale. I was trying for a patriotic theme and the fittings are really whiter than they look in the pic. I wonder it a light coat of sealer prior to the dye would help even out the color. I also thought about trying to mask off a section of the holly from the dyed areas and using that as the white. Holly is as white a wood as I know of and I really thought it would dye better. 
any suggestions?


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## Fred in NC (Feb 2, 2005)

Very nice pen, Jim ! I think you are headed in the right direction for a patriotic pen.

The right combination of wood and dye might take a few tries.  Penetration is not always the same with all woods. Will be worth it in the long run, the result is good.


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## ryannmphs (Feb 2, 2005)

Even though you did not like the way it turned out, I think it looks great!!  I haven't done any dyeing yet so I can offer no pointers.

Ryan


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## tipusnr (Feb 2, 2005)

Sanding sealer will help even out staining wood (this I know) but it also means more coats are need for a rich color (trade-off).  I assume the same thing would apply to dyes but haven't tried it.  Just bought some 1/2 pints of Minwax stains at an overstock warehouse yesterday to see what options they give me on some of the more prevalent bland woods I have available (maple, beech, and birch).

I like your idea for the pen!  If it doesn't want to even out try a whitewash or liming agent over the top of the colors for that "country craft" look that is once again popular in cubboards, pie safes, and shelving.


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## jkirkb94 (Feb 2, 2005)

It is still a pleasing looking pen.  []  I like it even with the muted colors.  Kirk[8D]


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## dougle40 (Feb 2, 2005)

There is a product out there that is used to pre-condition wood prior to applying a stain and helps to keep the staining much more even , have you tried this ?


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## low_48 (Feb 2, 2005)

Most of the stain conditioners are just thinned varnish. They soak in the open pores and seal them off. You won't be able to water based dye if you use the stain controller. Some finishers use a really thin coat of shellac and call it a "wash coat". It works faster than the stain conditioner, but I doubt if it will work with water based dye, and I wonder about the alcohol based dye since alcohol is the solvent for both. I used two different methods to control dye penetration. If you stop sanding around 220 grit the stain will bite more into the wood. More valleys from the sanding to soak it up. With pens you will definitely have to sand with the grain with the lathe shut off. If you want less dye, sand to 12000 with Micro Mesh and it will be so polished the dye will have a hard time biting into the wood. You can also take a very dampened rag and wipe the blank before putting on the dye. This will swell the pores open and let the dye bite a little better. I would look for light colored poplar instead of the holly for dyed pens. It will soak a ton more dye and will end up with a richer color. If you really want a deep color, use this stuff. It will really put on the color.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz253/12a/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1485

Here's a corn cob dyed with Dr. PH Martin's dye

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1754&SearchTerms=dyed

Rich


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## wayneis (Feb 2, 2005)

I believe that I have read that if you want a deep color than the alcohol based die will penitrate deeped and the result will be a darker more evenly stained wood.  You may also have to let it stand longer.  Also Rich is right about the sanding, the more you sand before using any stain or dye the less it will be able to penitrate.

Wayne


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## jimr (Feb 2, 2005)

Thanks for the info. I think that other light colored wood would probably work better than holly. It is so light and tight grained that dye probably can't penetrate very will. The dye I used is the artisan dyes in CSUSA catalog and they are alcohol based in a liquid form. The link you provided, Richard, was interesting. They seem pretty proud of their product. The corn cob pen you did looked great, nice rich even color. 
I am still experimenting. From all the comments I suspect, as I thought, that sealer would not be the best choice for dye. The sanding thing is sort of a tradeoff, more sanding less vivid color, less sanding some color gets sanded off for a real smooth surface. Nothing is easy, otherwise monkeys could make great pens!


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## its_virgil (Feb 2, 2005)

Curly and BE maple dye nicely. I dyed these pens with red aniline dye. I think figured lighter woods make a nicer dying medium than plain woods. I sanded, dyed, buffed dry and finished with CA. No sanding sealer. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## GregMuller (Feb 2, 2005)

Don,
What type of kit is that?


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## its_virgil (Feb 2, 2005)

Its a slime line with bottom blank the same length as the euro's bottom part. The diameter of the top is larger than the bottom. Kinda my take on the KC Twist without buying that kit. Just make it from a slimline. Thanks to Russ Fairfield for the idea and instructions. Take a look at http://woodturnerruss.com/Pen10.html
I have not made a standard slimeline in so long I have a fruit jar full of slimline CB's.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by GregMuller_
> <br />Don,
> What type of kit is that?


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## Gary (Feb 2, 2005)

Aniline dyes are a favorite of mine. Done properly, you get a very even coloring and usually quite intense.



> _Originally posted by its_virgil_
> <br />Curly and BE maple dye nicely. I dyed these pens with red aniline dye. I think figured lighter woods make a nicer dying medium than plain woods. I sanded, dyed, buffed dry and finished with CA. No sanding sealer.
> Do a good turn daily!
> Don


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## Guest (Feb 3, 2005)

About the same time I was looking for a white wood(not for  dying) I tried maple but the "look" wasn't what I wanted,a friend sent me some pieces of Sycamore from his yard after teh hurricanes in Fla.
The heart wood of sycamore is so white it almost seems to glow.
The chatoyance is striking.
It may pose a problem for dying.
Have you considerd poplar?
The Borgs sometimes sell it as "white wood"
It's relatively soft and might take the dye better.
(just a thought)


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## Deere41h (Feb 7, 2005)

Thought you might like to see my attempt at dying pens.  I call it a study in Red-White-Blue. The wood is curly maple. The dye is leather dye from a local shoe repair shop.  My wife has it on hand of her craft stuff and I gave it a try.  I am relative pleased with the outcome.




<br />


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## Tom McMillan (Feb 7, 2005)

Beautiful job John---very nice!!!


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## Gary (Feb 7, 2005)

I guess this tells us we need to experiment.





> _Originally posted by Deere41h_
> <br />Thought you might like to see my attempt at dying pens.  I call it a study in Red-White-Blue. The wood is curly maple. The dye is leather dye from a local shoe repair shop.  My wife has it on hand of her craft stuff and I gave it a try.  I am relative pleased with the outcome.
> 
> 
> ...


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## KKingery (Feb 7, 2005)

OK - at what point do you apply the dye during the pen making process? I've never dyed anything, but am thinking seriously, that it definately adds character to a pen.


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## Gary (Feb 7, 2005)

Uhh...it's wood...work it, stain or dye it...finish it.





> _Originally posted by KKingery_
> <br />OK - at what point do you apply the dye during the pen making process? I've never dyed anything, but am thinking seriously, that it definately adds character to a pen.


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## KKingery (Feb 7, 2005)

Is that supposed to be an answer to my question?


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## Gary (Feb 7, 2005)

Yes it is.





> _Originally posted by KKingery_
> <br />Is that supposed to be an answer to my question?


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## KKingery (Feb 7, 2005)

Well, not a very good one.


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## Gary (Feb 7, 2005)

That's a matter of opinion





> _Originally posted by KKingery_
> <br />Well, not a very good one.


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## KKingery (Feb 7, 2005)

whatever.


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## Gary (Feb 7, 2005)

Yep!





> _Originally posted by KKingery_
> <br />whatever.


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## timdaleiden (Feb 7, 2005)

Uhhhmmm, Yep. That is the one I want. Very intense. Is there a name on the package that I(we) can look up?

  It looks like there was excellent penetration, not intended as a pun. Did you soak, vacuum, or just apply?????

  Very nice. []




> _Originally posted by Deere41h_
> <br />Thought you might like to see my attempt at dying pens.  I call it a study in Red-White-Blue. The wood is curly maple. The dye is leather dye from a local shoe repair shop.  My wife has it on hand of her craft stuff and I gave it a try.  I am relative pleased with the outcome.
> <br />


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## its_virgil (Feb 7, 2005)

Ken,
I've dyed lots of pens and curly maple is my favorite wood to dye. I turn and sand through 12000MM and apply the dye with lathe running at a slow speed...(so it doesn't sling the dye). I apply with the tip of a folded paper towel dipped into the dye. Let it dry and buff followed by usual finish, for me that is CA. I prefer to use aniline dye for wood. It is a powder mixed with water. Also, spirit dyes are used by some and sold by CSUSA as is the aniline dyes. Woodcraft carries anilien cyes and other woodworking supply stores should also. I have had no luck finding aniline dyes at local paint stores or home centers. Take a look here: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/catalog/finishing_supplies.html

Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## KKingery (Feb 8, 2005)

Don - Thank you for your informative answer to my question. I appreciate it! I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track.


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## DCBluesman (Feb 8, 2005)

I'd be a lot more than pleased with those results, John.  Great work!


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## tipusnr (Feb 8, 2005)

I'm with Lou....great job on the dyed pens!


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## Gregory Huey (Feb 8, 2005)

How about trying some clear maple or scyamore instead of the holly. I do think you need to stay with a dye and not stain.


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## Deere41h (Feb 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> <br />Uhhhmmm, Yep. That is the one I want. Very intense. Is there a name on the package that I(we) can look up?
> 
> It looks like there was excellent penetration, not intended as a pun. Did you soak, vacuum, or just apply?????
> ...


This Dye comes in 4 fl oz bottles in a yellow box called Fiebing's Leather Dye.  You can find it at most shoe repair shops.  Some will have it in colors.  I sand the wood through 400 or all the way to 12000 sometimes and apply dye with a paper towel and the lathe off.  I turn the lathe by hand.  I wipe excess off almost immediately.  Turn the lathe on an continue to wipe the dye as it dries very fast.  Once dry I apply EEE Ultra Shine and finish in my usual manner. If you want more information please let me know.


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## jdavis (Feb 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jimr_
> <br />I showed a pic of a pen I dyed red on the turning page last week. It turned out better than I had expected. So, I thought using a holly blank would be even better since it is almost white. Well, I was disappointed. It did not dye as evenly as the bland spalted maple one in last weeks picture. The uneven color is more pronounced than it shows in this pic and the color is not as vivid. I think that is because the wood is so white it makes the color a bit pale. I was trying for a patriotic theme and the fittings are really whiter than they look in the pic. I wonder it a light coat of sealer prior to the dye would help even out the color. I also thought about trying to mask off a section of the holly from the dyed areas and using that as the white. Holly is as white a wood as I know of and I really thought it would dye better.
> any suggestions?
> 
> ...


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## jdavis (Feb 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jimr_
> <br />I showed a pic of a pen I dyed red on the turning page last week. It turned out better than I had expected. So, I thought using a holly blank would be even better since it is almost white. Well, I was disappointed. It did not dye as evenly as the bland spalted maple one in last weeks picture. The uneven color is more pronounced than it shows in this pic and the color is not as vivid. I think that is because the wood is so white it makes the color a bit pale. I was trying for a patriotic theme and the fittings are really whiter than they look in the pic. I wonder it a light coat of sealer prior to the dye would help even out the color. I also thought about trying to mask off a section of the holly from the dyed areas and using that as the white. Holly is as white a wood as I know of and I really thought it would dye better.
> any suggestions?
> Your pen looks fine. As a woodshop teacher, try sanding sealer before applying the dye. This will even the dye. Keep turning.
> ...


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## jdavis (Feb 8, 2005)

Very nice pen. Try sanding sealer before dying, as it will even out the color. Keep turning.


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## woodscavenger (Feb 8, 2005)

Those are stellar.  I really like the looks. Most people cannot see the subtle grain in curly maple but the dyes really change that.


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## Gary (Feb 8, 2005)

Those are really nice, John.


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## its_virgil (Feb 9, 2005)

Very nice job John. The dye looks terriffic! Maybe you should bring some to WC in FW on the 26th of March and teach us how you dye your pens.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by Deere41h_
> <br />Thought you might like to see my attempt at dying pens.  I call it a study in Red-White-Blue. The wood is curly maple. The dye is leather dye from a local shoe repair shop.  My wife has it on hand of her craft stuff and I gave it a try.  I am relative pleased with the outcome.
> 
> 
> ...


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## Heirloom Woodturnings (Feb 11, 2005)

I'm very impressed with the outcome of some of the dying efforts that have been demonstrated here and would like to try it myself soon. However, I would wonder about the staying power, or colorfastness, over time with some of the "non-conventional" wood dyes that I've seen here. Such as magic marker or leather dyes. They apparently have produced some very richly colored pens. Would they fade over time with exposure to normal UV light??


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## Deere41h (Feb 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Heirloom Woodturnings_
> <br />I'm very impressed with the outcome of some of the dying efforts that have been demonstrated here and would like to try it myself soon. However, I would wonder about the staying power, or colorfastness, over time with some of the "non-conventional" wood dyes that I've seen here. Such as magic marker or leather dyes. They apparently have produced some very richly colored pens. Would they fade over time with exposure to normal UV light??



I can't give you an answer over a long period...but I can tell you that I have dyed pens that are six months old and they have no deteriation in color.  That was with the leather dye that was used on those shown here.  Red-White-Blue.    I'm not concerned with long term exposure to UV.  Think about your shoes.  That is what this dye was made for.


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## Gary (Feb 11, 2005)

That's a really nice looking pen, Jack. Great work! Just a suggestion, but next time how about reducing the picture size. That one is 800 pixels wide and makes it necessary to scroll left to right to read all the messages.



> _Originally posted by jdavis_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...


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