# Enduro and Ren Wax?



## esheffield (Jan 28, 2005)

I'm trying to improve my finishing technique and I'm going to give the Enduro/Ren Wax combo a try. I found Wayne's instructions, plus some other comments on using it (using foam brushes instead of paper towels) over at Yahoo. But haven't seen much about the waxing step. Do I just wipe it one, let it set (for how long?), and wipe off? Or do I need to buff?

Also, do you always use the sanding sealer, or does it depend on the wood? Seems like I saw at least one comment somewhere around here about not using sealer on cocobolo since it's an oily wood. True? Any easy "test" to decide if a wood needs sealing or not, or does it even hurt to use sealer on them all anyway?

Thanks!

Eddie


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## Gary (Jan 28, 2005)

With the wax, you just wipe it on and buff it with a soft cloth. You can buff it right away because the wax dries almost instantly.


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## Lou (Jan 28, 2005)

There's no wax in Renaissance Wax.  It is a microcrystalline poly.  The reason it dries almost immediately is that the softener evaporates very quickly once you apply it.  Basically, wipe it on and wipe the excess off, then buff.  In my experience it is unnecessary to seal very dense oily woods including cocobolo, ebony, Brazilian rosewood and olivewood (Bethlehem, Russian or wild).  I've not seen anything to indicate a problem if you do.


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## Gary (Jan 28, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Lou_
> <br />There's no wax in Renaissance Wax.  It is a microcrystalline poly.  The reason it dries almost immediately is that the softener evaporates very quickly once you apply it.  Basically, wipe it on and wipe the excess off, then buff.  In my experience it is unnecessary to seal very dense oily woods including cocobolo, ebony, Brazilian rosewood and olivewood (Bethlehem, Russian or wild).  I've not seen anything to indicate a problem if you do.



Lou, I'm not disputing you, but I'm curious as to why the manufacturer calls it a "semi-synthetic micro-crystalline fossil-origin wax."


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## Fred in NC (Jan 28, 2005)

I wonder too!  "fossil-origin"  Maybe oil by-product ?
If that is the case, they don't want to say it out loud.


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## Lou (Jan 28, 2005)

The softener, as with most of them, is a refined petroleum product.  My information comes directly from the manufacturer as well as from the Smithsonian Institute, which uses Renaissance Wax to coat some of their metal pieces.  FYI, the Smithsonian is now testing another product for their fine wood artifacts.


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## btboone (Jan 28, 2005)

Sure smells fossil origin to me.  Definitely something in there from oil.


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## Gary (Jan 28, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Lou_
> <br />The softener, as with most of them, is a refined petroleum product.  My information comes directly from the manufacturer as well as from the Smithsonian Institute, which uses Renaissance Wax to coat some of their metal pieces.  FYI, the Smithsonian is now testing another product for their fine wood artifacts.



Wow, I hope they let it be known if they find something better for wood. I would sure accept their recommendations.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 28, 2005)

Gary, not to put in another plug, I really like carnauba.  That is why I am using TSW.


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## Gary (Jan 28, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Fred in NC_
> <br />Gary, not to put in another plug, I really like carnauba.  That is why I am using TSW.



I started using the Renaissance Wax because Bill Baumbeck recommended over the carnauba. According to him the carnauba yellows with age and handling and the Renaissance does not. I don't know what he was basing that on.


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## Lou (Jan 28, 2005)

As you might imagine, I've done a bit of research on this.  Carnauba is natural vegetable wax which occurs as a protective coating on the leaves of Copernica Cerifera, a Brazilian palm tree. Carnauba is a hard, brittle wax which melts at 86Â°C/187Â°F.  Carnauba is the hardest naturally occuring wax in the world.  It is distilled into many purities, however the cost goes up exponentially as the purity increases.  Pure carnauba does not age to a yellow, however any impurities can cause this effect.  Carnauba is sensitive to human perspiration and acid rain.  For that reason, it is not frequently used in a pure form for frequently handled wooden pieces.  That is also the reason that carnauba auto waxes must be reapplied regularly.

FYI, I use and strongly recommend Renaissance Wax on all of my 24k plated parts to enhance their durability.  I also use it to condition the tables on my bandsaw and drill press and on the rails of my lathe.  It is amazing for these purposes as well.   I, too, found Renaissance Wax from a conversation with Bill Baumbeck!


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## Gary (Jan 28, 2005)

And (correct me if I'm wrong, Lou) I would be willing to bet the carnauba sticks obtainable from Bealle and other polish suppliers are not free of impurities.


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## Rudy Vey (Jan 28, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Lou_
> <br />The softener, as with most of them, is a refined petroleum product.  My information comes directly from the manufacturer as well as from the Smithsonian Institute, which uses Renaissance Wax to coat some of their metal pieces.  FYI, the Smithsonian is now testing another product for their fine wood artifacts.



Guess that product is called TSW or am I wrong??
Rudy


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## Mac In Oak Ridge (Jan 28, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Fred in NC_
> <br />I wonder too!  "fossil-origin"  Maybe oil by-product ?
> If that is the case, they don't want to say it out loud.


Mineral Spirits would apply.


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## esheffield (Jan 28, 2005)

Thanks for all the input! Received my ren wax and micromesh from BB today. Hopefully the enduro will arrive soon. Guess they really are getting a lot of orders from us - they asked if I was a penturner. []

Now I just have to get my workshop back in usable shape - I've been "remodeling" it a bit. Hope to get things usable again this weekend.

Eddie


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## Gregory Huey (Jan 28, 2005)

I have used the ren wax as my very top coat and have had very good luck with it. Iam also using Lou's TSW and am getting great results.
Lou do ya think the Simthsonian has herd of TSW ?


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## Lou (Jan 29, 2005)

A couple of quick replies.  I don't have any experience with the carnauba sticks from Beall Tool Co or anyone else, so I really can't comment.  As for the Smithsonian having heard about Trade Secret for Wood(TM), all I can say is yes, they have.  Now, taking this thread back to the original, I hope you got the answers you needed, Eddie.


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## esheffield (Jan 29, 2005)

Yes Lou, I think I have what I need for now. I'll probably give TSW a spin at some time. The simple fact I was ordering some other stuff from BB and the Ren Wax was there made me decide to try it first.

Thanks for all the info!

Eddie


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## wayneis (Jan 29, 2005)

Eddie to get the result that I get then yes you do need to use sanding sealer just as I stated, three coats and do not sand it all off like a lot of people do.  The sanding sealer add to the depth that you will get if you use three coats of it and then at least three coats of Enduro.

Wayne


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## wdcav1952 (Jan 31, 2005)

> _Originally posted by esheffield_
> <br />Yes Lou, I think I have what I need for now. I'll probably give TSW a spin at some time. The simple fact I was ordering some other stuff from BB and the Ren Wax was there made me decide to try it first.
> 
> Thanks for all the info!
> ...



Eddie, both Ren wax and TSW do a great job.  I have both, but am tending to use TSW more and more since I like my fingers to smell like a pina colada than like oil. []


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## Lou (Jan 31, 2005)

Maybe I should start selling it as "aromatherapy" for Renaissance Wax users![8D]


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## wdcav1952 (Jan 31, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Lou_
> <br />Maybe I should start selling it as "aromatherapy" for Renaissance Wax users![8D]



If you include one of those "airline bottles" of Captain Morgan rum, I'll be first in line!
BTW, the package was mailed today.


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