# "Color Grain" laminated blanks



## Richard Gibson (Dec 25, 2010)

I bought 6 laminated blanks from PSI. I have now cracked 5 just trying to drill them. I slowed the drill down, I sped the drill up. I've gone slow and cleaned the bit each time I extract it. I've even drilled a pilot hole. When I start the bit into the wood, you can see the blade deflect to the side. I am using a 7mm bit that has only drilled 4 or 5 holes(with no problems.)  I don't have any problems with any other blanks I've drilled. What is the secret to drilling these laminated blanks???


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## beck3906 (Dec 25, 2010)

You say the bit is deflecting as it enters.....

One thing to check is that the cut end you're drilling into is perfectly square.  I've drilled into an angle before and it causes the bit to deflect as it enters.


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## renowb (Dec 25, 2010)

I just drilled a few and no problems. I don't know of any secrets, just sharp drill bits. Maybe someone else has something more for you.


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## ctubbs (Dec 25, 2010)

Are you using one of the brad point bits? If so, then you are catching with the spurs on the edge of the bit when you use a pilot hole.  If you have a full x/64 drill index, a 17/64 bit is just slightly smaller than the 7mm.  The 9/32 is barely larger then the 7mm.  I would try a pilot of 1/8, then 3/16 and finally use either of the two fraction bits.  Go slowly with the drill at a medium speed and let the bit do the work, do not force it. Back out often and clean out.  DO NOT GET THE HOLE HOT!  CA gives up somewhere around 165F, if my memory works so keep it cool.  I hope this may be of some help.  Respectfully offered.  This is worth what it cost you, nothing.
Charles


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## Scooley01 (Dec 26, 2010)

For what it's worth, I've had the exact same issue with the color grain.  My roommate requested a color grain pen, and I've already blown out 2 blanks trying to make it.


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## hewunch (Dec 26, 2010)

Yep, use a jobber/twist bit and not a brad point. Since I have switched.... 0 problems drilling.  Squaring up is another issue.


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## ldb2000 (Dec 26, 2010)

Center drilling is a good idea to keep the bit from wandering when you first start drilling . A set of center drill bits is cheap and will solve most problems of bit wander . I drill on the lathe and always use my skew to make a centered dimple on the blank and have had no problems with bit wander .


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## PenMan1 (Dec 26, 2010)

Those blanks from PSI are the worst of the worst.
 If you are lucky enough to get one that the glue will hold until you can get it drilled ( I found lathe drilling at the slowest speed, 1/4 inch at the time) was the only way, you can coat it with thin CA before turning. In fact it is a good idea to coat with CA before drilling.

I found that buying either the HUT dymond wood or the CUSA instead of the PSI diagonals cured the problems that I was having.


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## Chasper (Dec 26, 2010)

You are using a 7mm bit, thicker bits tend not to bend as much. I'm guessing that the laminate is cut at a diagonal, the bit wants to deflect in the direction of the diagonal slope and with every additional laminate it deflects just a little further.  

Make your bit as short as possible, push it as far as it will go up into the chuck, use the shortest bit you have.  Shorter will bend less.  Sharp also makes a big difference.


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## KenV (Dec 26, 2010)

If you have a dull or mis-ground bit, the challenge goes up fast.  Good techniques provided above -  Best for troublesome wood or challenging drilling is to use the lathe to assure the bit is centered on the pattern -  

Once the bit has some lateral support in the hole (that means a good concentric hole, it will tend to go straighter.  

This stuff is neither drill fast and hard nor run thrugh the lathe fast material -- can also be tricky in turning (Have been doing ornament finials with it) -  Did someone mention scary sharp tools and precise cuts??  

Final outcome can be spectacular


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## aggromere (Dec 26, 2010)

If I have a doubtful blank (which are all of them to me) I make sure the end is square, i like Butch's idea.  I center drill and then I drill with a small bit, and progressive drill larger holes till I get to the size of the tube. If I'm drilling a something really large, like a 35/64 I might drill 4 holes before I use that bit and  I don't use the brad point bits.  that seems to have fixed my problems drilling.  I also drill on the lathe, and quite frankly, I don't know how I pulled of drilling on a drill press when I used to do it that way, the lathe is much easier.


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## Dan Coleman (Jan 31, 2012)

I would wrap tightly with masking tape or electricians tape and abide by the aforementioned tips. You can generate a lot of force with a few layers of electricians tape.


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## firewhatfire (Jan 31, 2012)

I saw someone else post it here that referenced Eagle and that he used to wrap in gauze and coat with thin CA to help stabilize.  I have done a couple that way(does it help I dont know)  my blank didnt blow out and it had alot of glue lines.

Phil


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## gbpens (Jan 31, 2012)

Carbide bits work very well with Dymnodwood which is made by Rutland Plywood in Vermont. Color grain is made in India with who knows what kind of glue. A good source for Dymnowood is River Ridge Products.


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## Robert111 (Jan 31, 2012)

KenV said:


> If you have a dull or mis-ground bit, the challenge goes up fast.  Good techniques provided above -  Best for troublesome wood or challenging drilling is to use the lathe to assure the bit is centered on the pattern -
> 
> Once the bit has some lateral support in the hole (that means a good concentric hole, it will tend to go straighter.
> 
> ...



Yup, I admit I like the stuff, but I haven't used PSI's, only CSUSA's. Haven't had any problems working with it. As a matter of fact, I use it exclusively in segmented pens.


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## clapiana (Jan 31, 2012)

Wow I won't even go near that stuff from psi
Never cared much for it outside of now seeing it used in those segmented pens boy it looks good in those


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## plantman (Jan 31, 2012)

I agree with Pen Man1 CA, CA, CA, and more CA. I have turned these blanks and agree that they are the worst blanks made.They are made of hardwoods, but guess what, Balsa is a hardwood. If you glue any dence wood to any lighter wood, the drill will always follow the path of least resistance. My way of dealing with these blanks is to turn them on my Mini Micro Metal lathe with plenty of CA between cuts. Sorry, they still look like crap when they are finished because of all the voids that have to be filled with glue. I think making your own blanks would be a better choise. Then you know what you have up front, and it's a lot cheaper.


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