# Drill bit size



## Camardelle (Nov 19, 2016)

Thinking of trying a Gatsby pen.  Kit calls for a 27/64" drill which Rockler sells but it's not one with the point on it (brad point?).  What size metric should I use.  My calculations call it bigger than a 10mil and smaller than an 11mil.  Should I go with the 10 and use some persuasion to get the tube into the blank?

Any advice is welcomed before I spend any money.  Thanks!


----------



## mecompco (Nov 19, 2016)

Camardelle said:


> Thinking of trying a Gatsby pen.  Kit calls for a 27/64" drill which Rockler sells but it's not one with the point on it (brad point?).  What size metric should I use.  My calculations call it bigger than a 10mil and smaller than an 11mil.  Should I go with the 10 and use some persuasion to get the tube into the blank?
> 
> Any advice is welcomed before I spend any money.  Thanks!



Why do you want a brad point? In my experience, they should be avoided. Invest a few dollars in a Center Drill set (cheap on Amazon), use that, then drill with a conventional pointed drill. Much less chance of "interesting" things happening to you blank. Just MHO.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## carlmorrell (Nov 19, 2016)

I never use brad points, simply because I have no way of sharpening them. 

This website has an excellent library. For years I had a page ripped out of a Hut catalog that has all the drill sizes.  I was glad to discover a copy of it here:

http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/hutdrills.pdf

I probably use this reference more than any other in my shop. YMMV:biggrin:


----------



## More4dan (Nov 19, 2016)

11mm should be about 1/64" larger than 27/64" I also don't use brad bits.


----------



## KenV (Nov 19, 2016)

My bradpoints last until they get dullish and the sharpening makes them into 135 degree split point bits.  I will purchase bradpoints for flatwork where i want a hole with trim edges.  

A 10.9mm bit will work, but they are not common in brad points.

A sharp standard bit with a starting point/hole  works just fine for pen blanks.


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 19, 2016)

Pretty new to this and the only pens I've done have been cigar pens which I've used a brad point bit for.  I'm not sure what kind of bit comes with the kit I just bought but I'll give it a shot.  Thanks for all the input.  It is much appreciated.


----------



## eharri446 (Nov 19, 2016)

I do the Gatsby, Wall Street II, and even have some Zodiac which all take a 27/64. I also do not use brad points because they tend to wander when drilling. I would get a set of regular drill bits in the 1/64 to 1/2 by 1/64 inch. That will give you most everything that you need unless the kit you are making calls for a metric size.


----------



## MTViper (Nov 19, 2016)

Camardelle, 

You and I are probably the only 2 people in Texas with metric drill bits.  To save yourself some problems, just get a 27/64 drill bit.  If it's a brad point, use it until it dulls and use a Drill Doctor to sharpen it and get rid of the brad point.  I use brad point bits all the time in all types of wood and acrylic and have had no problem with them wandering since I started drilling on the lathe.  Slow down the speed to below 400 rpm and slowly advance the quill.  Clear the bit often.  

Steve


----------



## magpens (Nov 19, 2016)

Here's the drill size reference that I use:

Drill Size Conversion Table

You'll find that a 10mm bit is way too small ... don't even try it.

You don't need brad point. . Go with the normal 27/64" twist drill ... you'll get lots of use out of it. . (an 11mm drill is a bit too big.  10.5mm might be just a shade tight on the brass tube but I have used it ... it's ok for acrylic, but wood tends to expand when you drill and shrink back down after you finish drilling)


----------



## Quality Pen (Nov 19, 2016)

Camardelle said:


> Pretty new to this and the only pens I've done have been cigar pens which I've used a brad point bit for.  I'm not sure what kind of bit comes with the kit I just bought but I'll give it a shot.  Thanks for all the input.  It is much appreciated.


If you're just starting out I would say start looking into a drill doctor. It was tricky for me to learn and I'm no expert, but I will tell you when a bit gets dull it is no fun!

Some folks just buy bits since it's faster and easier... but either way if you're using a specific bit a lot then they get dull surprisingly fast.


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 19, 2016)

You may be right.  I'm looking forward to trying a new pen style.  I bought a standard pen mill kit but I don't think there's a 27/64" bore.  Not sure what to do there.  I figure using the lathe will be my best bet.


----------



## Quality Pen (Nov 19, 2016)

Camardelle said:


> You may be right.  I'm looking forward to trying a new pen style.  I bought a standard pen mill kit but I don't think there's a 27/64" bore.  Not sure what to do there.  I figure using the lathe will be my best bet.


Those pen mills come in a lot of sizes but not in 1 nice set that's easy to find. Regardless, they are harder to use than the lathe methods anyways. I find the latter more precise as well!


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 19, 2016)

Can you derive what you're using?  I was putting my pen mill in the lathe.


----------



## Quality Pen (Nov 20, 2016)

Mount sandpaper to your headstock and hold your blanks on punch rods in your tailstock. There are some specialty items for this, but it's as simple as you want it to be.


----------



## qquake (Nov 20, 2016)

I use a 27/64" brad point drill bit that that I got from Woodturningz. I prefer brad points, in spite of the bad opinions of them. They work well for me. Woodturningz also has a carbide version which would probably last longer, but I haven't tried one.

27/64" Drill Bit - WoodTurningz

27/64" Carbide Tip Drill Bit - WoodTurningz

Woodcraft also has one.

Buy WoodRiver Pen Makers Bit 27/64 Inch at Woodcraft.com

As for a barrel trimmer, I use a piloted end mill with a brass sleeve I made. Woodturningz has a 27/64 pilot for a barrel trimmer, and PSI has a sleeve that you put on a 7mm trimmer pilot.

Barrel Trimmer - Shaft only - 27/64" - WoodTurningz

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKGABTS.html


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 20, 2016)

Quality Pen said:


> Mount sandpaper to your headstock and hold your blanks on punch rods in your tailstock. There are some specialty items for this, but it's as simple as you want it to be.



Thank you for that.  Looks like a trip for punch rods are in order.  Could I trouble you for a pic of your sanding setup, or anyone else's for that matter.  

I really think the sanding setup may be the way to go.  I'll already have the lathe set for drilling so it'll likely be a short transition.


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 20, 2016)

I've found several vids on YouTube showing how this is done.  How did we ever survive before YouTube?  I remember, we read books.

Thanks for everyone's help here with this.  I've learned a lot and think I have a new direction with my pen making.  You guys rock!  Thank you again.


----------



## zig613 (Nov 20, 2016)

Here is a link to the Drill Bit Cheat Index http://www.penventory.com/inv.pl?command=drillbitcheatform that you may find useful.

Wade


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 20, 2016)

Great link.  Thanks!


----------



## TonyL (Nov 20, 2016)

how about a 10.5 mm as used for Jr Gents and some inside barrel sanding to fit?


----------



## zig613 (Nov 20, 2016)

Camardelle said:


> Quality Pen said:
> 
> 
> > Mount sandpaper to your headstock and hold your blanks on punch rods in your tailstock. There are some specialty items for this, but it's as simple as you want it to be.
> ...



Here is the set I use to trim the ends of the blank. Here is a link to a previous thread (post #11) Trimming Blanks that has a couple of photos of a jig I made for my sander to square the ends of blanks.

Wade


----------



## Camardelle (Nov 21, 2016)

zig613 said:


> Here is the set I use to trim the ends of the blank. Here is a link to a previous thread (post #11) Trimming Blanks that has a couple of photos of a jig I made for my sander to square the ends of blanks.
> 
> Wade




Thanks Wade.  That was really helpful.


----------

