# Lightbox question



## Math2010

Hi everyone,

I bought a lightbox on ebay. Really cool and really interesting product for the price with integrated LED lights.  The only thing I found (for now) is that I tried to photography Holly pen and because the wood is white, we don't see the grain with that LED light. Is there a way to see the grain on Holly wood when taking picture of it?

Thanks!


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## cbutzon

I'm not an expert on this, but if you're shooting raw images with a decent camera then I'll bet that you can enhance the grain in post-processing. Lightroom and Raw Therapee are both good software for this.  

I guess it's also possible that the LEDs are too narrow-spectrum to illuminate all the color detail -- I've always used incandescent or sunlight. But I definitely rely on post-processing to get the results I want.

Cory


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## Curly

Light may be too uniform. Anyway to have one side at a lower intensity or block some to create some shadow?


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## Marmotjr

If your camera has the options, try shooting bracketed photos.  This will shoot 3 photos, one at normal exposure, one under exposed, and one over exposed.  You can set the amount of exposure differences in your settings.   If it doesn't, then change either your f-stop or shutter speed by a click or two in either direction, and take the extra shots.  Changing ISO speed will also accomplish this, but is usually not quick to change, compared to shutter and aperture.  You can then compare the 3 images, and decide which one you like best.  You can then normalize the exposure in an editor if you choose.  The basic filters on most photo viewing apps can do this.  

Another option is to try an HDR setting.  It does the same thing, takes a series of bracketed photo's, but then combines the images in the camera.  This will let you have the best of both worlds.  

If you are still having issues, try diffusing the light source through another element.  I use .010" polystyrene sheets for my diffusers, and I can stack them if I need to.  Or use a slightly colored element on the light to help bring out the various tonal differences you need.


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## alaskagypsy

Try putting a darker color above the subject you are shooting. On the ceiling of the light box. The color will depend upon what color you want in the light wood. I once shot a Jim Bowee large knife. It reflected the dark ceiling in the room onto the knife blade, making the blade look dark instead of shining stainless. I think you could add a color to the wood this way.


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## TG Design

Sorry I hit send too early.


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## TG Design

Hi, which one do you have?  I’m looking into purchasing one. Overall are you happy with it?


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


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## MDWine

Since you don't mention the camera, the easiest way is to shoot it on a black background.  That will allow the camera to meter better on the pen, and the contraxt will show the pen a little better.

If you have a DSLR, dont' shoot auto, go manual and control it all.


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## farmer

*Reflection*



Math2010 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I bought a lightbox on ebay. Really cool and really interesting product for the price with integrated LED lights.  The only thing I found (for now) is that I tried to photography Holly pen and because the wood is white, we don't see the grain with that LED light. Is there a way to see the grain on Holly wood when taking picture of it?
> 
> Thanks!



Anytime your light is scattered reflected, refracted or emitted and comes into contact with a smooth surfaced non metallic object you get Electro magnetic polarized reflection at the angle of reflection.

A polarizer on your lens will help, if you turn on one light then you can move the light or the camera and the angle or the pen then you can some what try get out of the reflection of the light .

The more lights the more you will have lines of reflection on your pen.
Every light produces a line of reflection .

All soft boxes used in photography create electromagnetic polarized  reflection or glare.

Your choices 
Get the camera lens out of the angle of reflection, Photograph in low light ,
Or use a technic call Cross polarization.


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## Rifleman1776

Interesting question. Personally, I believe the prettiest holly is when there is little or no grain visible. Especially when stabilized it is very much like ivory.


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## moke

Cameras are built to assume that all scenes are an average of 18% gray.  Most of the time they are close, but if you are using a black background or an all white scene, like a snow scene, they come up wrong in exposure, or assessing that situation.  They fall back to assuming that it should be 18% gray.  Now days the cameras take many more things into consideration, and assess the situation in many ways in order to alleviate that but still have serious issues.  

If you use some sort of program that you can alter your photos, whether it be Gimp, or Photoshop or Elements, all you really have to do is darken it slightly or move the "Exposure Slider" slightly.  If you are using your cell phone, they all have built in software to do the same.  Its a simple fix.

Another fix really easy fix is to use a medium to Light Gray construction paper inside your tent as a background, it will make your camera happier.

For future work, your set up should be consistant everytime you set it up, if you have the abilty to control your exposure in a manual mode, play with the settings.  Set the settings that are variable (fstop....Shutter Speed...and ISO)  via what it tells you it is going use in an auto mode and then turn down the fstop for white (to a larger number)  and turn it up ( to a smaller number) 
for black.  And just maybe one or two stop at most.  Write this all down and put it in your tent, given you use the same lights at the same distance, it should be the same all the time.

Also, if you ever need to youtube anything, you will not find your answers for using your "lightbox" under that name.  Technically a "lightbox" is for rear lit box/table for viewing slides.  What you have is a "Light Tent"....and not that what you call it makes any difference but if you ever need to reference any outside materials, it might.

You will find a lot of experts in this area, some have great advice, others not so much....try them all and use the simplest solution that gets you where you are happy.
Just my .02


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## Sylvanite

I really don't see the point of a light tent with integrated lights.  Light tents provide "large" light (light from a wide range of angles) by illuminating the walls from the _outside_, and letting the walls illuminate the subject on the inside.  Putting lights inside the tent defeats its purpose.

Check out http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-why-use-light-tent-121808/, http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/pen-photography-putting-concept-into-practice-128555/, and Light Tent Setup for more information on what a light tent does and how to use one effectively for pen photography.  

See Pen Photography - Concept and Practice in the IAP Library for more pointers on photographing pens, and http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/pen-photography-myths-154777/ which describes some common misconceptions.

I hope that helps, 
Eric


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## Dusty

In the days when I was working All color viewing area's had to be painted with "Munsell N-8 "  neutral gray so to render the correct colors. This was, and as far as I know still is the industry standard for printing houses.


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## ramaroodle

Dusty said:


> In the days when I was working All color viewing area's had to be painted with "Munsell N-8 "  neutral gray so to render the correct colors. This was, and as far as I know still is the industry standard for printing houses.



Yes, however IMO it doesn't do much to make the photo more dramatic.  Gradient or black paper or fabric and an indirect or reflected light do a fine job. For some "punch" a mirror or tinted plexi under the pen adds a nice touch like in elkhorn's photo.


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