# epoxy finish



## rglinks (Apr 6, 2006)

Has anybody use epoxy as a finish?


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## rglinks (Apr 6, 2006)

Ron again,

Sorry but I pressed the wrong button.

I mixed 5 min epoxy dabbed a little on a paper towel and applied like any other finish.  The epoxy seem to fill the wood pores better than CA or friction polish.  I just did this last night and I'm letting it cure til tonite

Just wondering if any body tried this ?

Thanks Ron.....


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## terrymiller (Apr 6, 2006)

Have not tried it yet but thought about using fishing rod epoxy finish coat for the finish.  The only problem is the cure time but the finish is clear and extremely durable.


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## alamocdc (Apr 6, 2006)

Most epoxy will yellow over time, if not immediately.


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## woodmarc (Apr 7, 2006)

I have wondered the same thing.

Im my experiences with epoxy, a heat lamp will reduce the cure time dramatically.  
I used to use epoxy to repair circuit boards when I was in the Navy.  We would put the repaired boards in a metal cabinet with two 150 watt bulbs.  Cure time was reduced to 6-8 hours. vs 24.  

Still a long time in the pen world.  [^]

I can't verify the yellowing of epoxy. After the fix, the boards went back into the equipment and was never seen again. 

Let me know how it goes.


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## gerryr (Apr 8, 2006)

I've built quite a few fly rods over the past few years and it's a well know fact in the rodbuilding industry that epoxy thread finishes yellow.  Some do it faster than others but they all do it.  Well, there is a new one available which is being touted as remaining water clear forever, but the guy claiming this is suspect as far as I'm concerned.

I've experimented with rod finish as a wood finish.  There's no doubt that it will work, but it has a significant downside and that's the cure time, plus if you're not extremely careful, you can get bubbles in the finish.  In just the time it takes to apply one coat of the epoxy and allow it to cure, you can put a CA finish on probably 30 pens and have a better looking finish.


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## OSCAR15 (Apr 8, 2006)

I havent tried on pens but I have used a pourable epoxy for table tops.
It is designed as a finish, not a glue.  Has not yellowed in 5 years.
It is however, fairly thin liquid. Not sure it would work on a turning without running.             OSCAR


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## sptfr43 (Apr 8, 2006)

Yes I have tried that,with 5 min stuff. seems to work well. Don't know about wear since I don't handle them everyday ( I carry a resin pen ) but it does shine nice


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## TomServo (Apr 10, 2006)

Some finish epoxies will stay clear - look at stuff like the west system epoxy with 207 hardener, or the Raka finish epoxy. Basically, you need to start with a clear resin, and a clear hardener, and there needs to be UV inhibitors in there somewhere. I  know system 3 offers a finish hardener, but in a test I saw between 5 or 6 major brands, the west did the best, and the raka was damn near(at 2/3 the price). Shrinkage and dulling are factors as well... On pens, probably much less so than the plywood panel that wast left outside for a year in the test.


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## tone (Apr 12, 2006)

The epoxy used on fishing rod  thread wraps (Flex Coat, U40 etc.)is too soft for pens. I don't think it will hold up for long and will be easily scratched and dull.

Tony


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## chigdon (Apr 12, 2006)

The pour on finish mentioned is on almost every bar top you ever see (if you go to enough bars) and I can't ever think of one I have seen that has yellowed.


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## MesquiteMan (Apr 24, 2006)

I have been using 5 minute epoxy for glueing tubes AND for the finish for about 20 pens now.  I REALLY like it and it holds up very well.

I use the little plastic bags that pen parts come in and mix up some of the 5 min stuff.  I then put my finger in the bag and with the lathe spinning slow, I apply a heavy coat of the epoxy.  I let it sit for a minute or 2 and then up the speed.  I then hold a rag firmly and touch it to the epoxy.  It will be very grabby at first so hold on.

I then take the rag and move it back and forth lightly and quickly to polish the not cured epoxy.  Let it sit for 15 minutes or so and it is completely cured and very shiny.  Sometimes I then buff but not always.  To me, it works very well and is easier than CA to get great results.


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## DCBluesman (Apr 24, 2006)

Just remember that most epoxy will start to yellow within a year. [8D]


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## MesquiteMan (Apr 30, 2006)

I wonder if it will really matter or be noticable in the very thin coat that makes up a finish?  It really works well and is very easy to get a perfect finish that will rival CA.  It would be a shame if it does not work in the long run.


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## OSCAR15 (May 5, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chigdon_
> <br />The pour on finish mentioned is on almost every bar top you ever see (if you go to enough bars) and I can't ever think of one I have seen that has yellowed.


I have been to the majority of drinking establishments in the state of Georgia.  Chigdon is right it doesn't yellow.  When I used it for the table I built, I built up a lip around the edges so I could pour finish as per recommendation. It is pretty thin material, and not sure that it would work on a turning without being uneven.  Besides, I cannot understand why cover fine wood with resin? For those not wanting to occasionally buff out and wax shellacs, then turn acrylics. Wood should have the look and feel of wood. 
PS the tabletop i poured epoxy on (bar top finish) is a martini table.
If I should spill gin on ANY other finish, it would eat right through it!


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## crashgtr (Oct 26, 2006)

I contacted System 3 epoxy support and they recommended the surfboard epoxy which has UV additives to prevent yellowing and is extremely durable.  I have not tried it yet.


Liz


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## kent4Him (Oct 26, 2006)

I have heard from Steven Russell at Eurowood Werks in Texas that he does do some epoxy finishes on some of his pens, but I believe that he uses slow drying epoxys.  I remember him saying the he built a device that turns the pen at 5 RPM to keep an even coating on it while it dries.


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