# How long should bushings last?



## TattooedTurner (Oct 22, 2016)

Still being new to penturning I'm having trouble getting a good life from my bushings.  If I'm not scraping them with my tool I'm sanding them down. How long does a set of bushings typically last the more experienced turners here? 10 pens? 50 pens? Mine have been shot with as few as 3 or 4 and I'm thinking I need to change my technique. Any suggestions? These things can get costly if you have to order a set with every few kits, or worse yet, needing to order a set when you have nothing else to add. Shipping is more than the price of bushings.


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## nativewooder (Oct 22, 2016)

Quit chewing on the bushings.  That is not what they are intended for.  Have you read the instructions?


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## rd_ab_penman (Oct 22, 2016)

You don't need to buy bushings.
TBC and use your calipers.

Les


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## jttheclockman (Oct 22, 2016)

You said it. You need to change your technique. Bushings can last as long as you want them. What you need to do is stop using them as the cure all. Use them as a get you in the ball park item and then break out the calipers. You can buy a couple sets of calipers very cheap and have them all over. Each pen kit can have slightly different thickness of platings and thus the bushings can be off right out of the package. I have a set of bushings for Sierra pens that made at least 100 pens with and still going. Technique!!!!


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## JimB (Oct 22, 2016)

I don't really know how long they last but it is a lot longer than 3 or 4 pens. It sounds like you need to change your technique. Yes, you will occasionally hit them with a tool but it should not happen often. Same for sanding. Sanding your bushing will cause bushing sanding dust to get on your blank and discolor it. I sand most of the blank with bushings in place but am very careful near the bushing. I then remove the bushing and mount the blank between centers to do final sanding at the ends if needed.


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## TonyL (Oct 22, 2016)

> How long does a set of bushings typically last the more experienced turners
> here?


 
I can't tell you how long others' last them, but I still have my SS bushing for hundreds of pens. I am careful not to hit them with my tools though.

The non-SS (PSI, CSUSA, etc.) outer diameters last me a good while, but the  the shoulder of the bushing, where meets the narrow end seems to weaken on me and bend after 20 or so...I probably apply too much pressure to them from my centers.


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## Edgar (Oct 22, 2016)

After getting the blank to within a fingernail thickness (or slightly less), I switch to Delrin bushings for sanding & finishing.

I find that leaving the blank just that much proud of the bushings is just right to get the blank down to the right size while sanding. No danger of wearing the metal bushings down by sanding or getting any metal dust on the blank. 

Delrin bushings are fairly inexpensive, but I make my own. You can buy Delrin or other plastic rods by the foot on Amazon. I cut them to 4" or so, drill a 1/4" hole through them, then turn them true round, taper them to my liking & part them off. Only takes a few minutes to make a set of 4.


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## donstephan (Oct 22, 2016)

Tat

If you are also relatively new to turning tools, it would seem normal that the bushing would met lathe tools occasionally, so don't feel out of place.  The material being turned for pen bodies also can have an influence.  For example, I've watched videos of people turning acrylic and after removing the corners just using a skew as a very light scraper to slowly bring the acrylic down to the diameter of the bushings.  I find a scraper used this way easy to control, and only light sanding might be needed.  If working with wooden pen bodies a skew will give a smoother finish as a cutting tool, and a skew used this way often requires more practice and technique to get an equivalently smooth surface.

Having gained a bit of experience with eight initial pen kits with wooden bodies, I plan to keep on hand two sets of needed bushings, using a good set for turning and the old set for sanding.  If you will immediately be applying CA finish, the above suggestion to switch to delrin bushings after turning is very good.


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## TattooedTurner (Oct 22, 2016)

Thanks to everyone. I tend to ride the bevel on the bushing then come into the blank when it's close. Obviously I'm doing it all wrong. I have two calipers so will try leaving them proud then sanding until I get the required diameter. Part of the problem is age is catching up with me, I know I need glasses for reading & close up work but have delayed getting my eyes checked. To make up for it I've been riding the bevel on the bushings and trashing them since I can't see clearly.


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## jttheclockman (Oct 22, 2016)

Can not help you with your eyes except tell you go to any drug store and pick up a pair of reading glasses. Helps alot. There are many utube videos out there and even some from members here that will walk you through turning a pen blank. Good luck.


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## leehljp (Oct 22, 2016)

Another vote for "use the calipers" and "Turn between centers". 

You have discovered what is difficult for some to admit: Bushings are considered "consumables" if you size the blank by the bushing.


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## Edgar (Oct 22, 2016)

I have to wear reading glasses & I also use them while turning. I also look through a lighted magnifier while I'm turning. I have one that clamps to the side of my workbench for my small lathe & a floor standing one on rollers for my large lathe. I wouldn't be able to turn worth a darn without them.


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## edstreet (Oct 23, 2016)

This is most definitely a skill problem and not an equipment problem. There is no need or sense in throwing equipment at a skill problem. Work on skill and the problem will go away.


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## JimB (Oct 23, 2016)

I use dollar store reading glasses under my face shield when turning small items. I also have a pair of 2x safety glasses that I think I bought from CSUSA. They are not bi-focul style but rather the entire lense 2x magnification like reading glasses. They work great.

Also, it sounds like you are turning incorrectly. You should be going from the center of your blank towards the ends. It seems you are going from the ends towards the center.


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## donstephan (Oct 23, 2016)

As JimB pointed out, spindle turning leaves a smoother finish when moving from a larger diameter to a smaller one rather than from smaller (bushing) to larger one (body).  You might consider looking for a pen turning or even general wood turning group in your area.  Often these groups have experienced mentors and sometimes even classes for people at all experience levels.


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## TattooedTurner (Oct 23, 2016)

edstreet said:


> This is most definitely a skill problem and not an equipment problem. There is no need or sense in throwing equipment at a skill problem. Work on skill and the problem will go away.



I couldn't agree more about skill building but I'm not sure what you mean by throwing equipment at a skill problem unless you mean wasting my money on bushings. I certainly wasn't blaming any equipment for my lack of skill or knowledge. I have & still do practice my skew chisel & spindle gouge cuts on dowel rods but admittedly have a lot of progress to make. I've gotten pretty good at beads & coves but that skew is unforgiving of the tiniest mistake!



JimB said:


> Also, it sounds like you are turning incorrectly. You should be going from the center of your blank towards the ends. It seems you are going from the ends towards the center.



I would ride the bevel of my skew on the bushing when the blank diameter was close and cut in to get it flush with the bushing. I'll be leaving it about a fingernail thickness proud as somebody else mentioned and using calipers I'll sand to the correct diameter - while wearing my new pair of reading glasses!

Thanks again for everyone's help.


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## edstreet (Oct 23, 2016)

I hear that. Skews can be a pain esp if you Follow the oval skew crowd. Instead I would refer you to Allan Batty for all things skew related. There are 8 basic cuts you can do with a proper skew chisel and at most half of that with an oval.


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## edstreet (Oct 23, 2016)

Riding the bevel is *BAD*.  It assumes you have a convex grind and that is only found on one type of sharpener.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfeLAHQSbqk  Watch this, *ALL* of it.


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## jttheclockman (Oct 23, 2016)

edstreet said:


> Riding the bevel is *BAD*.  It assumes you have a convex grind and that is only found on one type of sharpener.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfeLAHQSbqk  Watch this, *ALL* of it.



Say WHAT?????????????????  Another scratch your head moment

This is part #2 of Barry Gross turning an acrylic pen. Might be of interest to some. He uses the ABC's


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzYu_rEmsPc


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## KenV (Oct 23, 2016)

Riding the bevel as described in Post 16 is not the same as what is taught in ABC turning.  the bevel being used should be immediatly behind the edge.  It does not have to be much, but it should not be the back edge of the bevel.

Having difficulty feeling the bevel behind the edge?  Use a diamond or CBN hone to make it a little wider and tune the edge at the same time.

Still having a problem-- try a flat grind or convex  grind    

The Keith Tompkins design skew works with a convex bevel and is hard to cause a catch.


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## jttheclockman (Oct 23, 2016)

Ken My whole point is you do not come out and make a blanket statement as riding the bevel is BAD.  to use a skew and any tool you do not willy nilly jab a tool into a piece of wood. You always need to find that bevel and work from there. That is why you grind an angle to begin with. I posted Barry's video because it is a good way to start and learn the use of a skew. You are not going to use 8 different cuts on turning a pen blank. I always found his method to be a good beginners example. Using a skew on what we do to me is huge valuable info. It can save so many sanding problems and chipping problems.

Here is some interesting reading. short and helpful.


www.newwoodworker.com/turning/ridebvl.html


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## TonyL (Oct 23, 2016)

> Riding the bevel as described in Post 16 is not the same as what is taught in
> ABC turning.  the bevel being used should be immediately behind the edge.  It
> does not have to be much, but it should not be the back edge of the bevel.


 
I have found Alan  Batty's (the one that Ed S. referenced) and Stuart Batty's videos to help my turning very much. The both support Ken's statement.


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## jttheclockman (Oct 23, 2016)

Deleted. I gave the info I follow so I am done.


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