# Drill Bit Lubricant



## bmchan (Dec 3, 2006)

American Woodworker had a product in an article about drill presses called a drill bit lubricant.  It prevents the wood from clogging the bit when drilling end grain.  Great idea!  Grizzly sells it (OptiCut XL).

I stop the drill with most bits and manually pry the wood from the flutes.  Do any of you use a lubricant and what can be used?


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## Rifleman1776 (Dec 3, 2006)

This is interesting. Personally, I would be hesitant to use a lubricant in wood for what we are doing. It could affect how the glue adheres to the tube after drilling. For non-woods, water can be used to cool. Otherwise, the rule is slow and clear chips often.


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## smoky10 (Dec 3, 2006)

I keep an old tooth brush next to my lathe(I do most of my drilling on the lathe)to clean my bits. If its really packed I use the plastic handle to loosen it and the brush to clean it. I agree with Frank, if that stuff has silicone in it it might interfere with the glue.


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## TellicoTurning (Dec 3, 2006)

Haven't thought about an old tooth brush... good idea.  I usually keep a small awl or screw driver handy to flick the chips out of the flutes... agree with Frank... I would worry about a lubricant in the wood preventing glue curing properly.


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## bob393 (Dec 3, 2006)

Same here, Lube sounds like a bad idea for many reasons. I use a fingernail,
yes I burn myself now and then, but I like the idea of an old tooth brush.


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## cueman (Dec 3, 2006)

I keep a scrap piece of wood handy and if I see that the flutes are getting clogged as I clear the chips I run the scrap wood up and down the bit while it is still moving to clear the flutes. Probably not an OSHA approved operation, but it works for me.

Douglas.


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## TellicoTurning (Dec 3, 2006)

Doug,
Tried that... bruise my thumb when I lost the scrap.. it's a wonder my thumb even works as many times as I've rapped on the drill bits.. "don't need no stinking OSHA to tell me how to do it"[][}]
Burnet my finger a few times too... reason for the awl or screw driver.


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## Randy_ (Dec 3, 2006)

I turned a little wooden handle and stuck a nail with the head removed in it.


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## redfishsc (Jan 6, 2007)

Mineral spirits. 

I always keep a cheap squirt bottle of mineral spirits by the lathe when I'm drilling (I drill with the lathe). Especially handy on hard woods like ebony and on plastics. I usually drill making 4-6 plunges and I clear the chips with the tip of the squirt bottle and then dribble on a tad of spirits. The spirits are flammable you are very, very unlikely to get your bit hot enough to flare the spirits. 

For a squirt bottle go to Wal-Mart in the kitchen supplies section and get a two-pack of those restaurant mustard/ketchup bottles. 


Also works great for holding Brasso as the final polish on plastic turnings.


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## wood-of-1kind (Jan 6, 2007)

There is a commercial product called Dry Lube available in aerosol form that does not stain or has adverse affects to wood (pen blanks etc.). I use it on drill bits, saw blades and router bits. Keeps 'pitch' from building up and also keeps the cutting tool cooler and keeps them sharp longer. If interested, I'll post a pic.

-Peter-[]


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## mick (Jan 6, 2007)

This is terrible I know, but since I do 90% of my drilling on the lathe, I use the bar that tightens my chuck jaws and bump the drill bit to loosen the impacted wood. (read whack it real hard) I mean hey it is laying right there and all.....lol [:0]


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## RussFairfield (Jan 6, 2007)

Plain old kerosene works just as well. Don't use too much and the glue will still stick to the wood. A little smoke proves it is working.

Pam also works if you want a high-tech product.


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## MesquiteMan (Jan 6, 2007)

Maybe I am doing something wrong, but I very seldom have the problem you guys are talking about.  I use a standard twist bit and clear it every 1/4-1/2" or so.  I also drill quite fast, no matter what material I am drilling.  I usually drill at 1,900 rpm and have yet to have a blank blow out on me while drilling.  What am I doing differently to not have the clogged bit problem?


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## skiprat (Jan 6, 2007)

Glad Mick posted before me, cos thats what I do. [:I]
But honestly though, I can't see the logic of lubricating. If a drill bit gets hot, there must be a reason. Friction. Either from the tip that needs sharpening, or the sides that need cleaning or maybe the bit is not aligned with the centre of the lathe.
Slow feed and regular removal should be enough. I always lube when drilling deep holes in aluminium but never in brass, wood or plastic.
I lube everything when I tap  or thread though.


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## stevers (Jan 6, 2007)

I feed fairly slow and pull the bit back often and get very little clogging of the flutes. Some wood will do it with some bits, but not often. Also, I keep my DC tube right at the bit to pull away chips and at the same time, it helps to keep the bit cool.


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## Mikey (Jan 8, 2007)

Curtis, i am with you. I clear the bit and for wood it works fine. if something does get packed, i just tap the bit with a glue brush I have laying on the Router Table next to the DP. For resin, I use the glue brush dipped in water to keep things cool. This also keep anything from sticking to the bit. I make sure the DP table is well lubricated though because of the watery mess and not wanting a rust problem.


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## tas2181 (Jan 8, 2007)

I'm with Smokey- I use an old toothbrush. Pointed the bottom end a little to pry out tightly packed stuff.


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## KenV (Jan 8, 2007)

Brass welders brush that sells for a couple of bucks makes an excellent tool for clearing packed chips - even those from MDF.  It can be engaged while the bit is turning safely.    

P.S.  The primary difference between mineral spirits, kerosene, stoddard solvent, ect is the size of container and the cost per gallon.  The smaller the container, the higher the cost per gallon as a rule of thumb.   They all burn the same in a camp stove or lantern setup for kerosene.


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## redfishsc (Jan 8, 2007)

MesquiteMan--- the main reason I, and I'd assume most of us that do this--- use a lube simply to reduce heat and wear on the drill bit. 

I drill solely on the lathe. To do this I shoot a pilot hole with a Twinland brad point (7mm) so that the hole is perfect and straight and then switch over to my Harbor Fright 115-bit set, which are not brad points and tend to go flounder around without the pilot hole. 


Anyhow, I use that 7mm bit a lot and I am convinced the lube keeps it in tip top shape, and it does work wonders drilling acrylics/PR's.


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