# Dr. Woodshop's Pen Plus vs. CA Finish



## dankc908 (Nov 15, 2014)

I used to use a BLO/CA finish on my pens and was comfortable with it.  However, I discovered that Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus worked VERY WELL for my pens.  I have, recently, started making razor handles (acrylic only due to water issues).  I have a request for a razor handle made out of some apricot blanks I have had for several years.  My question is:  Should I use my BLO/CA finish on these handles for water repellency or could I get by with my preferred Dr's. Woodshop product?  Is there a better approach for wooden razor handles?  Many Thanks!

Dan


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## Akula (Nov 15, 2014)

In order of my choices:

Acrylic

Stabilized woods

CA finished, make sure to seal the ends.

Clear Polycrylic (WOP or other clear dip finish as well)

That's just me and my choices.


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## Dan Masshardt (Nov 15, 2014)

I like pens plus a lot too but I wouldn't use it on a razor handle.  Maybe if the wood was very well stabilized. 

One option would be to make one for yourself and do some testing.


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## monophoto (Nov 15, 2014)

My usual finish choice for items that were expected to be exposed to liquids was always WOP.  

More recently, I've been using a shop-made varnish consisting of equal quantities of turpentine, gloss spar varnish and tung oil (a Russ Fairfield formula).  Tung oil itself is supposedly water resistant (it's been the finish of choice for Chinese junks for centuries), and spar varnish is designed specifically for marine applications.  It will emphasize grain color a bit, but actually adds little or no color itself.  Dries very glossy, but can be knocked back to a nice satin using steel wool or gray Scotchbrite pads.

The shop-made varnish is a bit softer than commercial WOP, so it should respond better to wood movement.


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## raar25 (Nov 15, 2014)

monophoto said:


> My usual finish choice for items that were expected to be exposed to liquids was always WOP.
> 
> More recently, I've been using a shop-made varnish consisting of equal quantities of turpentine, gloss spar varnish and tung oil (a Russ Fairfield formula).  Tung oil itself is supposedly water resistant (it's been the finish of choice for Chinese junks for centuries), and spar varnish is designed specifically for marine applications.  It will emphasize grain color a bit, but actually adds little or no color itself.  Dries very glossy, but can be knocked back to a nice satin using steel wool or gray Scotchbrite pads.
> 
> The shop-made varnish is a bit softer than commercial WOP, so it should respond better to wood movement.


 
Are you wiping this on while the pen is on the lathe?  Also have you compared it to CA for durability?


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## monophoto (Nov 15, 2014)

Yes - I wipe in on at a slow speed, and then burnish at a higher speed.  I tend to apply three to four coats with light sanding using a gray Scotchbright pad between coats.  

I have not compared it with a CA finish.  When I first started turning I attempted to use CA as a finish, but quickly learned that I didn't like the result.  I still keep CA around for use as an adhesive, and also to repair dings in wood, but I haven't used it as a finish in several years.


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## Gary B. Reeter (Nov 15, 2014)

*Finish*

My stupid question - what is WOP?

Gary


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## monophoto (Nov 15, 2014)

WOP = wipe-on polyurethane


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## William Menard (Nov 15, 2014)

Dan, you might also consider turning the blank just a tad smaller than your bushing, then cast in clear acrylic, turn it again to fit your bushings, problem solved


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