# Higher end materials



## aggromere (Nov 4, 2010)

I'm starting to make some pens on the Jr. Gent Ballpoint chassis and have used some alternate ivory matched with some amboyna burl that looks nice and have been experimenting with some bakelite and ebonite combined with wood.  I ordered some casien to see how that looks as well.

What are some options for higher end materials to use on pens.  I have pretty much stuck with wood and PR over the years, but would like to do some higher end stuff and was looking for ideas.  I saw a pen made from mammoth ivory on the forums and it looked really cool.  Where can you get that?


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## ed4copies (Nov 4, 2010)

Beware Peter!!!

Making pens from high end natural products has an inherent risk.

What will you do, if the pen cracks???
Natural materials are nearly ALL subject to cracking under certain environmental conditions.  IF they crack it is very rare for the owner to TELL you they left the pen in the car at 100 degrees, in the parking lot.

Just a FWIW!!!


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## bitshird (Nov 4, 2010)

Elephant Ivory is a great material, it's a bit out of my price range, There is an Ivory Museum that sells Ivory and at last check a piece for a medium size pen was about 200.00 , Mamoth Ivory is going to be fossilized, and readily available in small chunks and pieces, good for casting, another good material might be Walrus Ivory again not inexpensive. I believe Roy did a pen from Ivory a while back.


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## aggromere (Nov 4, 2010)

I found a place on the internet and mammoth ivory big enough for turning is like way way expensive.  Looked like you would have to buy chunks that cost over $500 bucks to get some pen sizes out of it.


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## BRobbins629 (Nov 4, 2010)

Toni's blanks would be a good start.


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## OKLAHOMAN (Nov 4, 2010)

Peter, if you really want high end natural product, try this link....but beware it's expensive, subject to cracking if your not careful and sudden weather changes. 
Here's where I get mine....   http://www.elephantivorytusks.com/penblanks.html


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## Padre (Nov 4, 2010)

I second what Ed says.  To me, high end pens are in the kit and the craftsmanship.  Amboyna burl, afzelia burl, eucalyptus burl, and some of the other hard to find woods, to me, make a fine 'high end' pen.

Turquoise and cactus, the gold nugget pens that Durocshark is making, and especially the "Steampunk" watch part pens.........wow.  Look at some of Roy's (Oklahoman) pens, there is some real class there.

Casien is cool too.

Just my 2 cents worth.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 4, 2010)

I see it often here and Padre mentioned it again. Can someone show me a big name pen maker who uses wood as the material of choice in their highend pens. I am talking about the MountBlancs of the world.  

Don't get me wrong certain woods look good if it is a burl or has unique grain charachteristics but wood to me does not cut it. Most woods too have that cracking ability.


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## BRobbins629 (Nov 4, 2010)

jttheclockman said:


> I see it often here and Padre mentioned it again. Can someone show me a big name pen maker who uses wood as the material of choice in their highend pens. I am talking about the MountBlancs of the world.
> 
> Don't get me wrong certain woods look good if it is a burl or has unique grain charachteristics but wood to me does not cut it. Most woods too have that cracking ability.



http://www.graf-von-faber-castell.com/docs/GvFC_index.aspx?id=26929

http://bleistift.memm.de/?p=314

http://www.waterman.com/en/style/pens/craft/serenite


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## jttheclockman (Nov 4, 2010)

BRobbins629 said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> > I see it often here and Padre mentioned it again. Can someone show me a big name pen maker who uses wood as the material of choice in their highend pens. I am talking about the MountBlancs of the world.
> ...


 

Yes I guess they may make a style or two but not many. By the way I love the Waterman pen collections. They make some of the coolest designs. Thanks.


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## IPD_Mrs (Nov 4, 2010)

Omas did a snakewood.  Got to see a few at DC.  They did discontinue them and from what I heard it was because of the cracking.

http://www.nibs.com/Omas360SnakeWood.htm


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## Padre (Nov 4, 2010)

I think the super high end pens, the "big names" if you will, use materials that are, mostly, beyond the means of the average member of IAP.  Although if you look at Mont Blanc, a lot of their pens are advertised as 'resin.'  I don't know what kind or how its made.  Maybe it's just silmar! :biggrin:

I saw a lapis lazuli Mont Blanc fountain pen once, actually got to write with it, and it was a gem and absolutely gorgeous.  But can I afford to make a pen out of lapis lazuli? Or how about Jade?  I don't know for sure, but I doubt I can. I know I can't afford to encrust my pens with diamonds, or solid gold, platinum or silver.

I guess my point is that for me, an IAP member, my higher end pens are going to be made out of the more unusual woods and resins readily available at a decent price.



jttheclockman said:


> I see it often here and Padre mentioned it again. Can someone show me a big name pen maker who uses wood as the material of choice in their highend pens. I am talking about the MountBlancs of the world.
> 
> Don't get me wrong certain woods look good if it is a burl or has unique grain charachteristics but wood to me does not cut it. Most woods too have that cracking ability.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 5, 2010)

Padre said:


> I think the super high end pens, the "big names" if you will, use materials that are, mostly, beyond the means of the average member of IAP. Although if you look at Mont Blanc, a lot of their pens are advertised as 'resin.' I don't know what kind or how its made. Maybe it's just silmar! :biggrin:
> 
> I saw a lapis lazuli Mont Blanc fountain pen once, actually got to write with it, and it was a gem and absolutely gorgeous. But can I afford to make a pen out of lapis lazuli? Or how about Jade? I don't know for sure, but I doubt I can. I know I can't afford to encrust my pens with diamonds, or solid gold, platinum or silver.
> 
> ...


 


That is my point. We here think of high end differently than the big name sellers. Just like the other thread. What is a highend kit. They would laugh at us after we mention the kits we did. Same goes for blank material. What do you consider high end. Some think differnt woods and some think different materials such as casein and stones and so forth. They think metals and Italian resins and such. Eye of the beholder I guess.


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## workinforwood (Nov 5, 2010)

Well, although it could sound like self promotion...I swear it is not meant to , but when I do a show, like the one I'm about to leave for in a few minutes, I will be pushing pens all made from my own materials.  When I purchase something like Casein, or a feather blank..as top notch as those are, I don't make those pens for shows.  I have several wood pens and plain acrylic pens, but those are from the beginning of my times making pens and I pretty  much have been blowing those out super cheap on clearance.  Every single high end pen is a scrolled pen, and eventually once all the crap is sold or given away, every pen will be a scrolled pen.  This is my thing, it's the only thing people come to my table to see, and some of my stuff is quite expensive.  I can't say my stuff is better than any other stuff.  I think what I'm saying is that you need order and flow in your inventory, not a chaotic display..like you have 1-2 of everything there is.  Every pen I'm pushing is different but they are all the same them.  I would expect if I was to see Curtis at a show...he'd have tons of cactus in different colors, and tons of different tones of worthless woods.  That's a theme and flow, they are all home made and can all fetch big money.  When I see Brian Gray..probably see him later today..his pens will all be resin, different colors, but all the same type of resin rods and he will have his speech and speel where he shows off all his rods and carries a limited number of actual pens, but they will all be custom pen with hand cut threads, no pen parts.  Limit  yourself as to how many different things you do, so you appear focused, you have a plan, the clients see your goal and what you sell and then they are sold.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 5, 2010)

workinforwood said:


> Well, although it could sound like self promotion...I swear it is not meant to , but when I do a show, like the one I'm about to leave for in a few minutes, I will be pushing pens all made from my own materials. When I purchase something like Casein, or a feather blank..as top notch as those are, I don't make those pens for shows. I have several wood pens and plain acrylic pens, but those are from the beginning of my times making pens and I pretty much have been blowing those out super cheap on clearance. Every single high end pen is a scrolled pen, and eventually once all the crap is sold or given away, every pen will be a scrolled pen. This is my thing, it's the only thing people come to my table to see, and some of my stuff is quite expensive. I can't say my stuff is better than any other stuff. I think what I'm saying is that you need order and flow in your inventory, not a chaotic display..like you have 1-2 of everything there is. Every pen I'm pushing is different but they are all the same them. I would expect if I was to see Curtis at a show...he'd have tons of cactus in different colors, and tons of different tones of worthless woods. That's a theme and flow, they are all home made and can all fetch big money. When I see Brian Gray..probably see him later today..his pens will all be resin, different colors, but all the same type of resin rods and he will have his speech and speel where he shows off all his rods and carries a limited number of actual pens, but they will all be custom pen with hand cut threads, no pen parts. Limit yourself as to how many different things you do, so you appear focused, you have a plan, the clients see your goal and what you sell and then they are sold.


 

Jeff I am sure you will do well because your blanks speak for themselves. Good luck at the show

But with that said there are some thoughts I have. Not everyone can do what you do. Not everyone has a particular theme or else we would see alot more ideas here. ( I have something I am working on but a ways away yet) But I still would carry a variety of pens. I have learned from selling scroll work variety is a key to making money at these shows. Having different range prices is not a bad thing as long as you can explain as to why each are at those prices. Some people here may stick to the higher end kits only and just vary the blanks used. You don't bring feathered pens and cactus pens because you are selling what you create and those you did not create. Well most of us did not create any blanks so we sell the finished product. We may put a laser kit together but it is not our idea. We may sell your blank but it is not our idea. This phase of the question goes back to an earlier post about what are some new ideas out there. 

I guess what I am trying to say is putting high end material and (what we call highend) on kits is a personal choice and what we sell is personal. One thing I do know for sure is color sells. That is why acrylics outsell wood any day, at least at my shows.


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## ed4copies (Nov 5, 2010)

No matter how I say this, I will get comments about "advertising all the time".  So, I will just say it:

Exotics handles the imported blanks that are made in Italy in the same factory as the major European pen makers use.  Want high end, I'll be happy to raise the price, so you feel better, but the madreperlatos ARE used in high-end pens.

When I did shows, I used these blanks to create a line of Cigar pens and a different line of Jr. Gents.  Carried them in a fabric "fold-over" pen case and only opened it when I had legitimate prospects for "up-market" products.

They were priced accordingly and I sold a few each show.

YMMV!!


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## Phunky_2003 (Nov 5, 2010)

workinforwood said:


> I have several wood pens and plain acrylic pens, but those are from the beginning of my times making pens and I pretty much have been blowing those out super cheap on clearance. Every single high end pen is a scrolled pen, and eventually once all the crap is sold or given away, every pen will be a scrolled pen.


 

I find it hard to believe you have anything that would be considered crap.


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## BRobbins629 (Nov 5, 2010)

Just like there are many ways to make pens, there are many ways to create high end pens. Some on this forum can take a set of components, any type of blank and with good marketing skills create a high end pen. The same can be said for some high volume manufacturers leveraging brand equity. Often the only difference between a generic brand and a name brand is the price and marketing. Others choose to use expensive kits and high dollar blanks for their high end selection. this can be equally effective. Personally I like to design and make pens one at a time. My selection of materials for the body and components will be dictated by the design not by the cost. Sometimes I will cast my own low cost resin, sometimes I will use high priced material such as celluloid, ebonite or ivory. and sometimes an average cost piece of wood or plastic. Same for the compenents. I might design and cast a clip and CB from silver or might not use on at all. I would say that the final price of a pen depends on the sum of design effort, cost of materials, labor involved, uniqueness, and marketing talent. Very few are good at providing all of these, but show me a pen with some good design thought, high quality materials, skilled labor, that is unique and a good marketing plan and you will see a real high end pen.


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## BigguyZ (Nov 5, 2010)

workinforwood said:


> Well, although it could sound like self promotion...I swear it is not meant to , but when I do a show, like the one I'm about to leave for in a few minutes, I will be pushing pens all made from my own materials.  When I purchase something like Casein, or a feather blank..as top notch as those are, I don't make those pens for shows.  I have several wood pens and plain acrylic pens, but those are from the beginning of my times making pens and I pretty  much have been blowing those out super cheap on clearance.  Every single high end pen is a scrolled pen, and eventually once all the crap is sold or given away, every pen will be a scrolled pen.  This is my thing, it's the only thing people come to my table to see, and some of my stuff is quite expensive.  I can't say my stuff is better than any other stuff.  I think what I'm saying is that you need order and flow in your inventory, not a chaotic display..like you have 1-2 of everything there is.  Every pen I'm pushing is different but they are all the same them.  I would expect if I was to see Curtis at a show...he'd have tons of cactus in different colors, and tons of different tones of worthless woods.  That's a theme and flow, they are all home made and can all fetch big money.  When I see Brian Gray..probably see him later today..his pens will all be resin, different colors, but all the same type of resin rods and he will have his speech and speel where he shows off all his rods and carries a limited number of actual pens, but they will all be custom pen with hand cut threads, no pen parts.  Limit  yourself as to how many different things you do, so you appear focused, you have a plan, the clients see your goal and what you sell and then they are sold.




I agree that you make a very valid point.  Sometimes doing too many things makes the special items get lost.  But if you focus, things seem more consistent.  If you are doing this as a business, I agree that this makes the most sense.  Stake your claim in a specific market (like the cactus blanks, or cigar pens (the fake cigars, not the kits), and carve out your niche.  

However, as a hobbyist, I want to try EVERYTHING and have that variety.  I want to try a few cast labels, and some cigar pens, and some scrolled items (I did that for my PITH last year), as well as my own castings and worthless wood.  Eventually, I want to do segmentations as well.  But I still like "plain" wood pens too, so I don't think I'll be stopping using those entirely (though I'm moving to stabalized woods due to cracking and the like).  Oh!  and I just started making my own polymer clay canes.  I like kit pens, but I bought a collet chuck and taps to make my own fully custom pens.  I want to try (and offer) it all.

Why?  I'd probably get bored if I just did one type of pen.  Also, I get excited about all of the cool stuff we do, and the only way to really show people is to do it and let them see (I'm trying to bring the art of penmaking to the masses :biggrin.


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## Padre (Nov 5, 2010)

BigguyZ said:


> workinforwood said:
> 
> 
> > Well, although it could sound like self promotion...I swear it is not meant to , but when I do a show, like the one I'm about to leave for in a few minutes, I will be pushing pens all made from my own materials.  When I purchase something like Casein, or a feather blank..as top notch as those are, I don't make those pens for shows.  I have several wood pens and plain acrylic pens, but those are from the beginning of my times making pens and I pretty  much have been blowing those out super cheap on clearance.  Every single high end pen is a scrolled pen, and eventually once all the crap is sold or given away, every pen will be a scrolled pen.  This is my thing, it's the only thing people come to my table to see, and some of my stuff is quite expensive.  I can't say my stuff is better than any other stuff.  I think what I'm saying is that you need order and flow in your inventory, not a chaotic display..like you have 1-2 of everything there is.  Every pen I'm pushing is different but they are all the same them.  I would expect if I was to see Curtis at a show...he'd have tons of cactus in different colors, and tons of different tones of worthless woods.  That's a theme and flow, they are all home made and can all fetch big money.  When I see Brian Gray..probably see him later today..his pens will all be resin, different colors, but all the same type of resin rods and he will have his speech and speel where he shows off all his rods and carries a limited number of actual pens, but they will all be custom pen with hand cut threads, no pen parts.  Limit  yourself as to how many different things you do, so you appear focused, you have a plan, the clients see your goal and what you sell and then they are sold.
> ...



I agree Travis, and I think you hit on another point.  The 'hobbyist' or "the professional.'  For me, I am not making pens for an income.  So far I have had one show and made $100.00.  I used that money to buy more 'stuff.'  I know there are other artists on IAP that are very involved in shows and online sales and some derive a bit of income from this.

I see the 'hobbyist' as one who will make all kinds of pens out of all kinds of materials, try new stuff as it comes out.  Not that the professionals don't do this, but I see them as more the specialist, the surgeons of the pen world and the hobbyists as the general practitioners.


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## JohnU (Nov 5, 2010)

Being a person who doesn't do shows, I can't say that I've proven my case or opinion but I can comment on what has worked for me a few times in my few sales and why some prices were driven high at auctions where I've donated.  I think material in both blank and kits makes a difference to the avid pen collector but how often do we see them compared to the average person.  I like to apeal to the interest groups.  Feed to their hobbies, collections or careers.  Then it's just not a cool pen but something that defines them.  They will pay more for that.


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## aggromere (Nov 5, 2010)

John I agree 100%.  If I was a fisherman I would make fishing themed pens only and join fishing clubs, go to tackleshops, etc. to find buyers for my pens.  Same thing if I was a piano player.  I would make those piano pen blank pens and go to all the piano stores.   If I liked to cook I would cast blanks of noodles, beans, spices, whatever and go to high end cookware stores.   So I think your observation is spot on.


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## Smitty37 (Nov 5, 2010)

*What you like....*

I don't know what high end materials means.  We've seen that there are high end pens made from many different materials.  

We have seen discussed what some "high cost" materials are -- but have not seen any claims that they make better looking or better functioning pens.  

We've heard that wood may be subject to cracking with age...but we all also know that minor cracks in an authenticated antique piece of furniture does not detract from its value.

In my opinion, a high priced pen made today that is still going to be valuable in 20 years will need at least one or two things not at all related to the material used in making it.  One - it will need some way to positively identify the maker and two - the maker's bio better be somewhere to be found showing where he/she lived, worked and sold their pens.   Some items retain value without those things but not a lot.


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## nativewooder (Nov 5, 2010)

I have some wood that I believe will hold its' value for many generations.  In Sept. 2004 we were smashed by two hurricanes in three weeks that obliterated millions of trees and thousands of roofs.  I got permission from the State DEP to salvage some black mangrove and some red mangrove.  Normally if you have mangrove in your possession, you go to jail.  I don't have much of either one, but the pens I put it on will have ridiculously high prices since I don't think I will ever have the opportunity to get this wood legally again.  Do you think that's reasonable?


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## Chasper (Nov 5, 2010)

A collector came into my booth a couple weeks ago, he had brought along a folding leather pen case and he showed me his pens.  All 24 pockets were filled with Emperors and other top of the line pens, all of them were made of wood, all of them had dull finishes on them, many of the finishes were spotty.  He had them organized by ambroyna burl, rosewood burl, and various other burls.  I could tell by his expression that he was truely proud of his collection that he had spent years accumulating.  

He said that he was interested in buying one of my pens for his collection.  I showed him M3 metal, trustone, carbon fiber, feathers, ebonite, bakelite, abalone shell, and more.  "Don't you have any wood pens?" he asked.  I had a couple Juniors in wood in the cases under the table but I didn't bother to get them out because he wanted Emperor quality pens.  I told him "other people do wood and do it well, I just do an occasional wood pen and if you want something represantive of what I do it wouldn't be a wood pen."  He was ready to buy a $300-$500 pen but I didn't get a sale.

As far as I know that is the first time in more than 60 high ticket shows that someone asked for a high end wood pen.  Losing that sale hasn't changed my mind about the niche I'm trying to fill, but seeing the poor finish on high end wood pens that were several years old has made me more convinced than ever that I'm not going to use wood.


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## IPD_Mrs (Nov 5, 2010)

Smitty that is an interesting theory. I personally do not believe that it will hold true and here is why. In the antique market a piece of furniture will retain and increase with value without the knowledge of the manufacturer or the craftsman. A solid oak dresser made in 1890 may have sold for $30 brand new. Today that same dresser may sell for more than a thousand. Now some furniture will be several times that amount if it is from a well know maker such as Gustav Stickley. The value is there either way and both may be considered high end. The furniture in general will be graded and valued by the quality of materials used, the craftsmanship and the design. It would be quite interesting to jump 70 years into the future and visit a pen show if they still exist. If so I would bet you would see some of the members pens on display at the vintage tables. Some of our members pens belong in a museum and I won't name any names (GreeneEyedBlackCat). :wink:


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## Smitty37 (Nov 5, 2010)

*True*



MLKWoodWorking said:


> Smitty that is an interesting theory. I personally do not believe that it will hold true and here is why. In the antique market a piece of furniture will retain and increase with value without the knowledge of the manufacturer or the craftsman. A solid oak dresser made in 1890 may have sold for $30 brand new. Today that same dresser may sell for more than a thousand. Now some furniture will be several times that amount if it is from a well know maker such as Gustav Stickley. The value is there either way and both may be considered high end. The furniture in general will be graded and valued by the quality of materials used, the craftsmanship and the design. It would be quite interesting to jump 70 years into the future and visit a pen show if they still exist. If so I would bet you would see some of the members pens on display at the vintage tables. Some of our members pens belong in a museum and I won't name any names (GreeneEyedBlackCat). :wink:


 
You are right, but the pieces where the maker is known and identified will always sell for more than the same piece would sell for if the maker was not known.  A Mont Blanc 100 years from now will still be a Mont Blanc.  A pen I make even if it is every bit as well made (and I'm not implying that I make pens that well but I'm sure some of you folks do) and well preserved will be a "nice old pen".


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## Smitty37 (Nov 5, 2010)

*hmmm*



Chasper said:


> A collector came into my booth a couple weeks ago, he had brought along a folding leather pen case and he showed me his pens. All 24 pockets were filled with Emperors and other top of the line pens, all of them were made of wood, all of them had dull finishes on them, many of the finishes were spotty. He had them organized by ambroyna burl, rosewood burl, and various other burls. I could tell by his expression that he was truely proud of his collection that he had spent years accumulating.
> 
> He said that he was interested in buying one of my pens for his collection. I showed him M3 metal, trustone, carbon fiber, feathers, ebonite, bakelite, abalone shell, and more. "Don't you have any wood pens?" he asked. I had a couple Juniors in wood in the cases under the table but I didn't bother to get them out because he wanted Emperor quality pens. I told him "other people do wood and do it well, I just do an occasional wood pen and if you want something represantive of what I do it wouldn't be a wood pen." He was ready to buy a $300-$500 pen but I didn't get a sale.
> 
> As far as I know that is the first time in more than 60 high ticket shows that someone asked for a high end wood pen. Losing that sale hasn't changed my mind about the niche I'm trying to fill, but seeing the poor finish on high end wood pens that were several years old has made me more convinced than ever that I'm not going to use wood.


 
No issue with your feelings about what you want to do, that is probably the best choice for you and I applaud you that you would give up a sale rather than offer something you don't have confidence it. I do think folks might want to keep in mind that a lot of finishes being used today are not time tested.  For instance, who can say what a ca finish on acrylic will look like in 10, 15 or 20 yrars?  I certainly hope they still look beautiful but do any of us really know?


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## OKLAHOMAN (Nov 5, 2010)

Gerry, lets hope we never have booths next to each other:wink: we think too much alike,:biggrin: do the same type of shows and I make very,very few wood pens. LOL 



Chasper said:


> A collector came into my booth a couple weeks ago, he had brought along a folding leather pen case and he showed me his pens. All 24 pockets were filled with Emperors and other top of the line pens, all of them were made of wood, all of them had dull finishes on them, many of the finishes were spotty. He had them organized by ambroyna burl, rosewood burl, and various other burls. I could tell by his expression that he was truely proud of his collection that he had spent years accumulating.
> 
> He said that he was interested in buying one of my pens for his collection. I showed him M3 metal, trustone, carbon fiber, feathers, ebonite, bakelite, abalone shell, and more. "Don't you have any wood pens?" he asked. I had a couple Juniors in wood in the cases under the table but I didn't bother to get them out because he wanted Emperor quality pens. I told him "other people do wood and do it well, I just do an occasional wood pen and if you want something represantive of what I do it wouldn't be a wood pen." He was ready to buy a $300-$500 pen but I didn't get a sale.
> 
> As far as I know that is the first time in more than 60 high ticket shows that someone asked for a high end wood pen. Losing that sale hasn't changed my mind about the niche I'm trying to fill, but seeing the poor finish on high end wood pens that were several years old has made me more convinced than ever that I'm not going to use wood.


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## Chasper (Nov 5, 2010)

OKLAHOMAN said:


> Gerry, lets hope we never have booths next to each other:wink: we think too much alike,:biggrin: do the same type of shows and I make very,very few wood pens. LOL



For my sake I hope we are side by side in the same show, you would get all the sales.
LOL


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## Chasper (Nov 5, 2010)

Smitty37 said:


> No issue with your feelings about what you want to do, that is probably the best choice for you and I applaud you that you would give up a sale rather than offer something you don't have confidence it. I do think folks might want to keep in mind that a lot of finishes being used today are not time tested.  For instance, who can say what a ca finish on acrylic will look like in 10, 15 or 20 yrars?  I certainly hope they still look beautiful but do any of us really know?



I can't speak for everyone, but many of us do not put a finish coat on acrylic, I just sand it down and buff it to a shine.  Nothing is forever, but changes are that it will still be shiny a few years from now.


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## workinforwood (Nov 6, 2010)

I just don't think you have to have a $70 kit, and a $100 blank, and a 14k nib to be high end.  That's a lot of money to tie up.  Everyone has the potential to make their own blanks.  You buy some wood or plastics, you cut them up this way and that way, play around, put them back together, spin the pen and you have a pen worth a couple hundred.  A $200 pen is high end in my opinion.  Yes there are way more expensive pens out there, but if you spend $20 and make $200, that's good money..high end money!


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## Smitty37 (Nov 6, 2010)

*hmmmm*



Chasper said:


> Smitty37 said:
> 
> 
> > No issue with your feelings about what you want to do, that is probably the best choice for you and I applaud you that you would give up a sale rather than offer something you don't have confidence it. I do think folks might want to keep in mind that a lot of finishes being used today are not time tested. For instance, who can say what a ca finish on acrylic will look like in 10, 15 or 20 yrars? I certainly hope they still look beautiful but do any of us really know?
> ...


 
A lot of members here indicate they finish plastics with CA maybe I should not have used a specific type....the point is we don't know what those CA finishes are going to look like in 10 or 15 years because we don't have a very long history of CA as a finish.  We are all hoping they will retain their initial beauty but we don't know.


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## IPD_Mrs (Nov 6, 2010)

Chasper said:


> I can't speak for everyone, but many of us do not put a finish coat on acrylic, I just sand it down and buff it to a shine. Nothing is forever, but changes are that it will still be shiny a few years from now.


 
I think this is probably the smartest way to finish acrylic.  If you look at vintage pens and the various materials, ebonite, hard rubber, celluloid, ect they didn't have a finish applied.  Once you see a refurbished pen it is amazing how well these materials polish up.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 6, 2010)

There are many cases where you need to use CA on top of the resin because of objects protruding such as Curtis' cactus blanks or the wasted wood blanks or whatever they are called.


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