# drilling on lathe???



## truckerdave (Feb 27, 2010)

Can anyone tell me (with pics if possible) how to "drill" on my Jet mini-lathe?  What special extra parts do I need?  Is it worth the trouble instead of drilling on a drill press?


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## mick (Feb 27, 2010)

Dave to me it's easier and quicker to drill on the lathe. I do a lot of segmented work and it's important to drill the center of the blank. This is much easier on the lathe.
All you need is a four jaw chuck(in the headstock) and a Jacobs chuck with a Morse taper(in the tail stock) and you're ready to go.


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## Woodlvr (Feb 27, 2010)

Dave here is the tutorial from the library. I hope that this helps. I know that some other members will also chime in and help with any other questions that you might have.

http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/lathedrilling.pdf


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## TellicoTurning (Feb 27, 2010)

mick said:


> Dave to me it's easier and quicker to drill on the lathe. I do a lot of segmented work and it's important to drill the center of the blank. This is much easier on the lathe.
> All you need is a four jaw chuck(in the headstock) and a Jacobs chuck with a Morse taper(in the tail stock) and your ready to go.



Same with me, except I mostly drill on my big lathe instead of the 1014... the biggest problem you will have on the little lathe is the tailstock quill only has about a 2 or 2 1/4 inch travel... you might need to back out of the blank, slide the tail stock forward to reset the drill and then turn the crank a little further until you complete the hole.  I use my 1442 because my quill travel is about 4 inches and I can get all the way through most pen blanks in one set up.


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## TellicoTurning (Feb 27, 2010)

Dave,
I forgot to include the pictures in my last post..
Here is a shot of the chuck I use to drill pen blanks... other styles are available and this just happens to be one I got a few years ago... also a picture of a pepper mill blank being drilled... I don't have a picture of a pen blank..


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## Jgrden (Feb 27, 2010)

I sold my drill press and use the Mini Lathe exclusively. Mick has the right description. I was fortunate to buy the four jaw chuck for $99.00 at Woodcraft. I forgot what the Jacobs chuck cost, but it was allot less.


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## cnccutter (Feb 27, 2010)

PSI is just coming out with a dedicated lathe chuck for pen turning. I've already put my name on the list for when it hits thier dock. the nice thing iis it work on the same idea as the pen vises and will center odd shaped blocks if I'm looking at it right.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/pen-blank-drilling-chuck.html

Erik


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## wjbowling (Feb 27, 2010)

You can get a MT2 Jocob's chuck at Harbor Freight for $7.99.  I use one and have had great success.

Wes

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42340


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## mick (Feb 28, 2010)

cnccutter said:


> PSI is just coming out with a dedicated lathe chuck for pen turning. I've already put my name on the list for when it hits thier dock. the nice thing iis it work on the same idea as the pen vises and will center odd shaped blocks if I'm looking at it right.
> 
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/pen-blank-drilling-chuck.html
> 
> Erik



The pin jaws on this chuck look long enough to hold a blank securely and if your just looking to drill blanks it would work especially if your blank isn't exactly square....However, if you don't already have a chuck and you plan on ever using a chuck for other things consider getting a 4 jaw chuck and a set of pin jaws. It will be a lot more versatile in the long run....YMMV but that's just MHO!


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## cnccutter (Feb 28, 2010)

Mick 

I'm lucky enough to already have a nice 4jaw chuck. your definitely right that the new chuck has its limitations, but my thought is it would be great to have a dedicated chuck that is for drilling. simple spin on and drill. I looked at the replacement plates but didn't like the idea of having to change each time I want to drill or turn.

Erik







mick said:


> The pin jaws on this chuck look long enough to hold a blank securely and if your just looking to drill blanks it would work especially if your blank isn't exactly square....However, if you don't already have a chuck and you plan on ever using a chuck for other things consider getting a 4 jaw chuck and a set of pin jaws. It will be a lot more versatile in the long run....YMMV but that's just MHO!


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## truckerdave (Feb 28, 2010)

So the drill bit doesn't turn???  The blank does???  And it works better that way??? That seems counter-intuitive.  But it looks like I could put my drill press up and have that much more room on my workbench.


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## mick (Feb 28, 2010)

cnccutter said:


> Mick
> 
> I'm lucky enough to already have a nice 4jaw chuck. your definitely right that the new chuck has its limitations, but my thought is it would be great to have a dedicated chuck that is for drilling. simple spin on and drill. I looked at the replacement plates but didn't like the idea of having to change each time I want to drill or turn.
> 
> Erik



Yeah that's the only drawback....I leave my pin jaws on the chuck all the time .....so whenever I need to drill or hold something bigger I have to change out the jaws!


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## Mac (Feb 28, 2010)

truckerdave said:


> So the drill bit doesn't turn??? The blank does??? And it works better that way??? That seems counter-intuitive. But it looks like I could put my drill press up and have that much more room on my workbench.


 
Pretty sure thats the only way to drill on a lathe,as most tailstock attachments have bearings in them and turn .So you have to use a jacobs chuck stuck in your #1 or#2 taper to have a fixed piece while the headstock turns.


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## prparry (Mar 11, 2010)

truckerdave said:


> So the drill bit doesn't turn??? The blank does??? And it works better that way??? That seems counter-intuitive. But it looks like I could put my drill press up and have that much more room on my workbench.


 

Drilling this way has been done for years, in both wood and metal there's no difference in the drill being stationary and the headstock turning to the drill turning and the headstock stationary.


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## Gary Zakian (Mar 11, 2010)

I have been looking at getting the PSI "Utility Grip 4 Jaw Chrome Lathe Chuck System: includes 2 jaws and FREE 8 Jumbo Flat Jaw Item #: CUG3418CCX" (see http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CUG3418CCX.html ) for lathe drilling.  My question is whether this, along with a Jacob's Chuck, is all I need to do lathe drilling (other than appropriate drill bits)? 

PSI has "#1 Pin Jaws Item #: CJAWPC" (see  http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CJAWPC.html  ). Do I need these as well, or are these pin jaws a "nice to have" item, but not necessary for lathe drilling with the PSI Utility Grip 4 Jaw Chuck (above).

Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.


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## PaulSF (Mar 11, 2010)

Gary, I just received this collett chuck system from PSI:

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCDOWEL.html

Haven't tried it out yet, probably won't get to it before next week at the earliest, since I've been really busy.


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## arkie (Mar 11, 2010)

It's possible to buy an adaptor to fit your chuck to the tailstock and to put your MT drill chuck in the headstock.  Not sure why you'd want to do that...

Principal advantages of drilling on the lathe are that you can see alignment of the workpiece before drilling, and hold that alignhment much better while drilling.  I've found it necessary on antler, for one.


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## snyiper (Mar 11, 2010)

Is a 4 jaw better or more accurate than a collet chuck? I know with a collet you have to turn it round first but which is easier/more accurate?


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## jocat54 (Mar 11, 2010)

PaulSF said:


> Gary, I just received this collett chuck system from PSI:
> 
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCDOWEL.html
> 
> Haven't tried it out yet, probably won't get to it before next week at the earliest, since I've been really busy.


 
I have one and it really works well, so far all my blanks have been drilled dead center.



snyiper said:


> Is a 4 jaw better or more accurate than a collet chuck? I know with a collet you have to turn it round first but which is easier/more accurate?


 
I don't have a 4 jaw chuck so can't really compare, but I would think that a collet chuck would be  a little more accurate for blanks that have been turned round.


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## fernhills (Mar 12, 2010)

I think, if for now you can only buy one, i would get the 4 jaw chuck.  You can drill a pen blank, box blank and a bowl blank with a a 4 jaw. You are somewhat limited as to what you can drill with a Collet Chuck, although there are other things a Collet is handy for other then drilling.  Carl


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## Gary Zakian (Mar 12, 2010)

PaulSF, Carl,

Thanks for your input.

Since I am new to turning I have been buying pre-drilled blanks, which are expensive and not always what I expected.  However, I preferred to purchase these blanks and educate myself on the most cost-effective and quality-effective method of drilling blanks rather than buying a drill press that I could afford (i.e., inexpensive and lacking in quality).  

Because of the many experienced turners that post on this great site I kept repeating the mantra "buy quality", and held off purchasing the DP and kept researching the lathe drilling alternative.  

I took a serious look at the chuck and collet set from PSI that PaulSF mentioned.  However, I think the versatility of the 4 jaw, at least for now, gets my nod.  Plus, it is about the cost of the cheap DP that I am glad I did not purchase.

I know at some point I will upgrade to the chuck and collet set, it is just that right now finances dictate otherwise.

Thanks to you and all others who collectively have shared their knowledge and, in the process, helped me save $$$, keep focused on quality, and ultimately will make me a better turner.


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## Lenny (Mar 12, 2010)

I have been drilling on my Jet mini this Winter rather than going out to the drill press in my unheated shop. :wink:

A few observations.... I use a Talon chuck to grip the blank and don't always round it first. Best results have been when I do round it first! 

I have been experiencing problems with the drill Chuck coming loose from the tailstock. I make very certain I have advanced the quill to where it can "seat" properly ... but it still will fetch up and then you have all kinds of things spinning that aren't supposed to be. :redface:

My solution was to order a new drill chuck, one with a threaded end to accept a drawbolt. I'm convinced, at least in my case, that this is a very neccessary part of the equation!

I have read the tutorial by Keith Larrett (VisExp), and the recent post by George (Texatdurango) about screw length bits (shorter) and really wish I had some .... partly because ... I drilled a blank recently, first using a center drill to get the hole precisely centered, only to discover the drill I had for the final hole size was a brad point. 
Luckily I was able to plug the hole and then drill with the brad point. The results were enough to make me a believer ...

http://picasaweb.google.com/toolmanlh/LenSPens#5446365962355174882


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