# Don't Try This At Home



## W.Y. (Sep 6, 2013)

Don't try MDF on a lathe unless you are very confident about it because it is not usually a very stable product and if you do use slow speeds .

With that said, when I made this little video two days ago 
Easy Segmenting Jig - YouTube
to help some out on the Segmentation Frustration  thread that a member  started  , I mentioned (I think a couple times)  that it was just MDF  for demonstration purposes and I would be throwing it out. 
Well after that , I got one of those "WHAT IF" moments and wondered  what kind  of a bowl it would make . I didn't have a suit of armor to put on but I did use a hat and a full face shield and even a coat on top of a long sleeve shirt just in case . . . . 
All went well and I applied the finish on it this morning .









When cutting it and sanding it the texture  seemed a lot coarser than most MDF I have used for jigs and such and it was not until I was all finished that I realized it was a much lower grade of MDF . Maybe not MDF at all but carries a different name ? I compared it with MDF that I am more familiar with which is  more solid as shown on the left. The bowl was made from the kind on the right . I have seen that kind use in packing crates and such  and probably costs less and is not as strong so I was glad it turned out alright.


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## walshjp17 (Sep 6, 2013)

Wow!


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## SDB777 (Sep 6, 2013)

I'm guessing you had a few moments while turning where you were thinking...."When is this going to come apart?"

Fantastic results!!!





Scott (nice glossy finish too) B


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## TLTHW (Sep 6, 2013)

looks more like particle board or underlayment but it turned out beautiful.  Very nice Job.


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## Monty (Sep 6, 2013)

TLTHW said:


> looks more like particle board or underlayment but it turned out beautiful.  Very nice Job.


Particle board was my thought also. Nevertheless it made a great looking bowl.


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## philb (Sep 6, 2013)

That looks awesome!
What type of finish is that? Looks very glossy for such a coarse material!!

Phil


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## W.Y. (Sep 6, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> I'm guessing you had a few moments while turning where you were thinking...."When is this going to come apart?"
> 
> Fantastic results!!!
> 
> ...



I have to admit I was a little nervous and was well prepared and made sure to stand off to one side while turning it .


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## W.Y. (Sep 6, 2013)

Monty said:


> TLTHW said:
> 
> 
> > looks more like particle board or underlayment but it turned out beautiful.  Very nice Job.
> ...



Thank you for suggesting what that type of board is. I believe you are right  that it is called particle board as opposed to MDF on the left side of the picture. .


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## 76winger (Sep 6, 2013)

Yep, it looks like the particle board cheap shelves are made from to me. You had a mighty good success getting it made without issue. Good work!


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## W.Y. (Sep 6, 2013)

philb said:


> That looks awesome!
> What type of finish is that? Looks very glossy for such a coarse material!!
> 
> Phil



Phil , It is just rattle can lacquer but normally with real wood I only need one coat of sanding sealer whereas that stuff sucked in the first coat so I gave it a second one . Then four coats of lacquer on top of that .


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## Jim15 (Sep 6, 2013)

It came out great.


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## W.Y. (Sep 6, 2013)

Jim15 said:


> It came out great.



Thanks to all for the replies.

It is hard to tell in the picture that it is the same segmented board that I showed in the video . My joints were so tight that I could hardly see them at all when trying to stagger the joints when stacking the rings . I had to guess at most of them and I know some are not  properly staggered ..


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## Donnie Kennedy (Sep 6, 2013)

That looks cool, and you got a bigger "pair" than I do to even attempt that. I bet the pucker factor was at the top of the scale.


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## sbarton22 (Sep 8, 2013)

That's awesome! I saw a guy turn a segmented bowl out of pieces of OSB... if you thought the stuff you were using was unstable, go give that a shot!!

I absolutely love the search for innovation! Well done!


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## philb (Sep 8, 2013)

William O Young said:


> philb said:
> 
> 
> > That looks awesome!
> ...



That's a great looking finish, wouldn't of guessed rattle cans!
Do you cut back the finish and then buff? Or just straight from the can?!

Great bowl either way.
Phil


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## W.Y. (Sep 8, 2013)

> That's a great looking finish, wouldn't of guessed rattle cans!
> Do you cut back the finish and then buff? Or just straight from the can?!
> 
> Great bowl either way.
> Phil



Not sure what you mean about cutting back the finish when using rattle can  . It is straight from the can  and  no buffing was used . 
Rattle can finish does take practice to get it looking  close enough to a HVLP  gun sprayed finish  . I only use it when I have one or very few to do . I prefer to wait until I have a bunch and set up my HVLP conversion gun to spray them .


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## philb (Sep 8, 2013)

Just meant do you sand back the finish to smooth it out, then polish. But obviously you're just good straight from the can!!

HVLP sounds interesting, been looking at a few finishes for bowls etc and looks like that's the way to go. Do you use a polyurethane finish through the HVLP?! Thanks for all the answers!!

Phil


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## W.Y. (Sep 8, 2013)

philb said:


> Just meant do you sand back the finish to smooth it out, then polish. But obviously you're just good straight from the can!!
> 
> HVLP sounds interesting, been looking at a few finishes for bowls etc and looks like that's the way to go. Do you use a polyurethane finish through the HVLP?! Thanks for all the answers!!
> 
> Phil



I only sand with 320 after the sanding sealer . No sanding between coats with most lacquers 
I use a very high quality WB lacquer when spraying with HVLP


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## Glen Schumann (Sep 8, 2013)

Agree on the particle board; I've lost track of the number of shelves I've made from that over the years.

Great looking bowls.  Who would have guessed those could be made from THAT!?


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## CharlesJohnson (Sep 8, 2013)

Beautiful Bowl. I must try this. What is the darker layer between the particle board layers?  Thanks for the information.


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## edstreet (Sep 9, 2013)

Hmm, I have been pondering what to say on this one as I have been quite torn.  On one hand I have to congrats that your bowl is quite stunning. 

However on the other hand I also have to say this about the material used.  I do recognize the topic title is fitting, however......




> Medium density fiberboard (MDF) is a manufactured wood product used in a variety of industries. The manufacturing process includes some chemicals that may be hazardous to humans, leading to concerns about the health risks of MDF. There are two primary concerns: exposure to the chemicals used to make it and wood dust. By being aware of the potential risks, people can protect themselves when they work with it.
> 
> To make MDF, a company shreds wood, softens it, and turns it into a fine powder. The powder is combined with resins and other bonding agents and compacted into solid boards. A number of different woods can be used to make MDF, and the material is also sometimes treated to be fire, water, or stain resistant. Many lumberyards sell varying types and widths for an assortment of uses.
> 
> Toxic chemicals are one of the major health risks of MDF. The chemical of most concern is formaldehyde, which can aggravate asthma and other lung conditions, irritate mucous membranes, and cause contact dermatitis. Studies on this chemical also suggest that it is a likely carcinogen, and it should be generally avoided. During the manufacturing process, personnel should protect themselves with respirators and adequate clothing. When cutting or working with MDF, nose, mouth, and eye protection should be worn. Finished products may also offgas, raising concerns about its use in the home. Fiberboard should never be burned, except in adequately ventilated facilities.






> When MDF is cut a large quantity of dust particles are released into the air. It is important that a respirator be worn and the material be cut in a controlled and ventilated environment. It is a good practice to seal the exposed edges to limit the emissions from the binders contained in this material.
> 
> Formaldehyde resins are commonly used to bind the fibers in MDF together, and testing has consistently revealed that MDF products emit free formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds that pose health risks at concentrations considered unsafe, for at least several months after manufacture.[7][8][9] Urea-formaldehyde is always being slowly released from the edges and surface of MDF. When painting, it is a good idea to coat all sides of the finished piece in order to seal in the free formaldehyde. Wax and oil finishes may be used as finishes but they are less effective at sealing in the free formaldehyde.


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## Fishinbo (Sep 9, 2013)

You did a great job, it turned out really pretty and has some interesting look on the wood and very nice finish too.


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## triw51 (Sep 14, 2013)

WOW That is creative very beautiful.  Glad you had the "what if" moment


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