# Tool Sharpening Questions



## Shoc (Feb 3, 2016)

I am fairly new to turning. I have been using Easy Wood Tools up until now. However, recently I started using a traditional 1" roughing gouge and find it much better for rounding blanks. 

I need to sharpen the roughing gouge and was wondering what the best way to that would be? I was thinking of purchasing a 6" bench grinder and the Wolverine jig system. Any thoughts?

Also, what should I be looking for in grinding wheels?


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## magpens (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi Steve,

I can't answer all your questions, but I think the consensus would be to buy an 8" grinder.  If you are serious about the hobby, you might consider buying CBN wheels (about $200 each !!! but they last forever.  There's a guy in Montreal that sells them.  Let me know if you want his contact info.)

As for the Wolverine system ... I believe there was one offered a couple of days ago in one of the For-Sale forums here on IAP.  Do a search of the site.

Also, as I recall, both Busy Bee Tools and Lee Valley sell it locally (or used to) and I think maybe BB had the better price on a sale not too long ago.

Mal


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## Shoc (Feb 3, 2016)

Mal thanks for the reply. Why do you suggest an 8" vs. 6" grinder, is it because of the curvature of the wheel?

s.


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## Edgar (Feb 3, 2016)

Like most anything else with this hobby, there's almost as many ways to tackle sharpening as there are turners.

The Wolverine system is a good way to get consistent grinds on your tools and you can make similar jigs yourself.

You can also simply freehand your sharpening, but it is certainly not for everyone. You need a steady hand and a good feel for doing it in order to get consistent results. I grew up on a farm where all we was a foot-powered treadle grindstone and flat bastard files to sharpen our tools, so I learned to sharpen everything - knives, chisels, hoes, mower blades, etc. by hand. I still sharpen everything freehand but now I use an ordinary 6" grinder, a belt sander, bastard files & diamond hones. It's not a system that I would necessarily recommend to anyone else, but it works for me and just illustrates that you don't always have to have a lot of fancy tools & jigs. 

I do recommend getting a little set of diamond hones like the DMT D2K at Amazon regardless of what technique you use for your primary sharpening.http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D2K-Dia-S...&qid=1454544179&sr=8-3&keywords=diamond+hones


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## KenV (Feb 3, 2016)

Welcome to IAP Steve

I know good turners who use 6 inch grinders and those who use 8 inch grinders.  Some use the wolverines gear, some use Sorby, some like Tormek, some use worksharp.   Most like what they have learned to use.

You need a way to sharpen the spindle roughing gouge, and that takes an adjustable platform and a way to get the same setting for the tool every time.  

If you can, visit a local turning club and make arrangements to try sharpening systems.  See what works for you.  Vancouver area has some excellent turners.

Watch some videos on sharpening.  Those produced by John Lucas are excellent.  His video with sharpening the spindle roughing gouge is first class.

A lot of US turners have low cost 8 inch 1750 rpm grinders from Woodcraft.  Your choices in Canada will likely be different.


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## Shoc (Feb 3, 2016)

Would you mind resending photo of the hones? It did load in your original post.


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## magpens (Feb 3, 2016)

Steve ... yes, curvature. . You might also consider a 1750 RPM model; but ask others who know better than I do.

Edgar ... are you intending to post pics of diamond hones ?


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## Shoc (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi Ken -

Thanks for the kind welcome. I will have a look at the videos you recommended.

By the way, I have been to Juneau several times and love it. May be back in September.


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## Edgar (Feb 3, 2016)

Shoc said:


> Would you mind resending photo of the hones? It did load in your original post.




Here you go, Steve. Sorry about that - my browser glitched just as I was trying to include this link in my earlier post. Woodcraft & other places also sell them.

Diamond Hones


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## allmaclean (Feb 3, 2016)

I use the Worksharp with some Tormek jigs. Whatever you use though, there will be a learning curve. I would guess that different systems have different learning curves. Jigs likely help you shorten the curve so that you can repeat sharpen quicker. You do get quite a bit of practice sharpening though. As someone told me when I started, "Practice sharpening and learn to like it."


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## oneleggimp (Feb 4, 2016)

When I was young, I had a hand cranked grinding wheel and a little while later I got a "Work Arbor" for my lathe with a grind stone on it. In both cases i hand sharpened plane irons, hand chisels, scrapers, lathe chisels, lawn mower reels, clippers  etc. with either the grind stone or a mill bastard file. It's been a while and I'm now 72 and my hand isn't so steady so I have switched to a Rikon 8" slow speed (1725 RPM) bench grinder with a Wolverine jig. I find I get razor sharp consistent results.  Yes I ended up spending some money on it but I have consistently good results.  BTW- I am not affluent to buy CBN wheels so I am using the white wheels that came with the grinder


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## flyitfast (Feb 4, 2016)

WoodCraft has the Rikon slow speed grinder on sale right now for a good price.
It is an 8" grinder with speed at 1750.  Heard good things about it.
Gordon


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## JimB (Feb 4, 2016)

I have both regular and EWT tools. I use my regular tools 95% of the time, maybe more. I believe once you buy a few more regular tools and learn to use them you will prefer them over carbide.

If the only regular tool you have is the one gouge and you don't plan on getting more I think you will be spending a lot of money on a system. If it were me I would just buy an inexpensive grinder and use the platform that comes with it.

On the other hand, if you plan on buying more regular tools then buy a system. I have the slow speed grinder with the white wheels from Woodcraft. The one I have is the one they sold before they had the Rikon. I have the Wolverine system. I love my setup!

I also have some diamond hones to get a really sharp edge. I primarily use the credit card style ones.


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## Shoc (Feb 4, 2016)

Thanks to all of you who replied to my post. I was leaning towards the Rikon 8" and the Wolverine system. After all of your help I am inclined to go that way. I am also going to grab those diamond hones that Edgar suggested.


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## Whitehat1994 (Feb 4, 2016)

oneleggimp said:


> When I was young, I had a hand cranked grinding wheel and a little while later I got a "Work Arbor" for my lathe with a grind stone on it. In both cases i hand sharpened plane irons, hand chisels, scrapers, lathe chisels, lawn mower reels, clippers  etc. with either the grind stone or a mill bastard file. It's been a while and I'm now 72 and my hand isn't so steady so I have switched to a Rikon 8" slow speed (1725 RPM) bench grinder with a Wolverine jig. I find I get razor sharp consistent results.  Yes I ended up spending some money on it but I have consistently good results.  BTW- I am not affluent to buy CBN wheels so I am using the white wheels that came with the grinder



So all you use is the grinder? Do you use both wheels on the grinder each time you sharpen? New turning tools need to be sharpened before turning correct? I bought the WoodRiver 3 piece turning tools. I bought the Rikon grinder. After grinding I've been using credit card size diamond hones. I'm STILL learning to get a sharp edge.


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## JimB (Feb 4, 2016)

Whitehat1994 said:


> oneleggimp said:
> 
> 
> > When I was young, I had a hand cranked grinding wheel and a little while later I got a "Work Arbor" for my lathe with a grind stone on it. In both cases i hand sharpened plane irons, hand chisels, scrapers, lathe chisels, lawn mower reels, clippers  etc. with either the grind stone or a mill bastard file. It's been a while and I'm now 72 and my hand isn't so steady so I have switched to a Rikon 8" slow speed (1725 RPM) bench grinder with a Wolverine jig. I find I get razor sharp consistent results.  Yes I ended up spending some money on it but I have consistently good results.  BTW- I am not affluent to buy CBN wheels so I am using the white wheels that came with the grinder
> ...



Most new tools need honing and possibly sharpening and then honing. Sometimes you may need to re-shape, then sharpen, then hone. 

The coarse wheel is for re-shaping, not sharpening. You sharpen on the finer wheel. After sharpening you hone with your diamond file. I use a credit card size also. Once the tool is properly honed you will not need to go back to the grinder each time. You will use your diamond hone to touch up the edge. Just don't let the tool get dull. If it does then go back to your grinder and sharpen on the finer wheel and hone it again. If you hone frequently you will spend very little time at the grinder.


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## JimB (Feb 4, 2016)

I should have mentioned I don't hone all my tools all the time.  For example I don't usually hone my bowl gouges but there are times that I do.


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## duncsuss (Feb 11, 2016)

Shoc said:


> recently I started using a traditional 1" roughing gouge and find it much better for rounding blanks.
> 
> I need to sharpen the roughing gouge and was wondering what the best way to that would be?



Steve -- one thing that's worth mentioning is there are different types of steel used to make lathe tools. You don't say if the one you use is High Speed Steel ("HSS") or old-fashioned "high carbon steel" or one of the fancy new alloys ... it can make a difference when you're sharpening.

HSS should not be quenched while grinding.

High carbon steel must not be allowed to get too hot or the edge will be "blued" -- meaning that it softens and won't stay sharp long enough to get useful work done. One way to keep the tool from overheating is to quench it in cold water after a few seconds on the grinder.

If in doubt -- ask the person you bought it from, or the tool manufacturer (they nearly all have websites ... :wink


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## Whitehat1994 (Feb 11, 2016)

JimB said:


> Whitehat1994 said:
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> > oneleggimp said:
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Thanks Jim,
So once I have the tool edge "shiny" it's sharp, right? 
I think I'm getting there. I turned a stablilized flaming box elder. , I turned the piece ok. The carbide tip turning tool I bought a couple of years ago (from woodcraft) I'm trying to sharpenthe carbide tip tools, no success so far. 
Any suggestions on sharpening carbide tip tools?
I'm trying to sharpen a new WoodRiver pen set from woodcraft and Shopsmith turning tools.


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## Hawkdave (Feb 12, 2016)

G'Day Steve, you have had some great replies to your query. About the only thing I can add is, if you colour the grinding bevel of your tool with a black texta (sharpie), you can see at a glance if you are getting an even grind. Sometimes you are grinding away and actually grinding two angles. Using the sharpie will give you a more consistent grind, it will disappear as you hold it to the stone and you can see if you have the right angle on your jig or grinding table. 


Dave.


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## jttheclockman (Feb 12, 2016)

Whitehat1994 said:


> JimB said:
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> > Whitehat1994 said:
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Here is what I use to hone my carbide cutters. Lots of good reading there.


https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/d...sharpening.pdf


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## JimB (Feb 12, 2016)

Whitehat1994 said:


> JimB said:
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> > Whitehat1994 said:
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Theoretically, yes, when you are honing you will get the tip shiny and if everything was done correctly it is sharp. Follow the tip about using the sharpy marker on the bevel. Color the entire bevel before going to the grinder. This allows you to see what is being sharpened. 

For the carbide tool I remove the cutter and place it face down on a diamond credit card style file and with very light pressure move it in a figure 8 motion. The number of laps you need to make will depend on how dull the cutter is. It shouldn't take many to get a good edge. Eventually you will need to replace the cutter.


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