# End results of Plexi and CA the same?



## DurocShark (Sep 21, 2009)

Just curious... I did a test finish with plexi (I need a dispenser for that stuff... It splattered all over using a jar) and the end result looks and feels the same as CA.

Which makes sense since they're both acrylic, right? 

I'm no chemist so want to be sure my poor brain is heading down the right path. I liked how the plexi went on and will be doing more experiments with it.


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## GoodTurns (Sep 21, 2009)

from my (admittedly limited) experience, the plexi is softer an more likely to scratch than CA.  I dip using plexi for some woods.


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## BigguyZ (Sep 21, 2009)

GoodTurns said:


> from my (admittedly limited) experience, the plexi is softer an more likely to scratch than CA.  I dip using plexi for some woods.



Most people use a wipe-on method for plexi, right?  How thin does the mixture need to be?  Do you use a thicker mix for dipping?  Do you have issues with the plexi getting insides the tubes with dipping?


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## GoodTurns (Sep 21, 2009)

put as much plexi in the acetone as it can hold in suspension, cork the tubes, dip and hang to dry....i use cup hooks screwed into the corks and hang them in my lacquer booth.  no sanding if you're lucky and hit your diameters, just buff to finish.


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## BigguyZ (Sep 21, 2009)

GoodTurns said:


> put as much plexi in the acetone as it can hold in suspension, cork the tubes, dip and hang to dry....i use cup hooks screwed into the corks and hang them in my lacquer booth.  no sanding if you're lucky and hit your diameters, just buff to finish.



Nice...  This might be what I need...  Where do you buy the corks?


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## hewunch (Sep 21, 2009)

corks = tattoo suppliers on ebay. Make sure you get the stuff that fits your tubes


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## GoodTurns (Sep 21, 2009)

what he said.... and they are reusable...just squeeze the plexi (or lacquer) off and they're ready to go again.


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## BigguyZ (Sep 21, 2009)

Cool.  Well, I was able to get a good CA finish tonight on half a pen (only had time to do one barrel), but it was quick, easy, and accurate/ clear.  So, I'll stick with this for now.

Though, I'll need corks for casting, if I get into that.


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## MikeDe (Oct 12, 2009)

GoodTurns said:


> put as much plexi in the acetone as it can hold in suspension, cork the tubes, dip and hang to dry....i use cup hooks screwed into the corks and hang them in my lacquer booth. no sanding if you're lucky and hit your diameters, just buff to finish.


 
I've not done any finishing in CA nor plexi as of yet. I'm leaning towards plexi 'cause I don't think I like what I hear about the breathing reactions and such after long term use of CA. I need what few brain cells I have left just to turn a decent pen. However, I'm trying to picture what you're saying about dipping and hanging. Does your mix of plexi not run or sag at all? After drying hasn't it created a small problem right around the bottom edge of your pen like extending over the edge? (another one or two, I'm not done yet)  About how much would be a sane amount to make at once and how long would that batch last on the shelf? 
Sorry to put so many questions into one post.


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## ctturner (Oct 12, 2009)

I am into this post because I have recently started having a reaction to ca (as soon as I have perfected my technique...Boo).  I started wearing a respirator and that doesn't work if my eyes water then I will not be able to breathe around 2am.  I would like to get more information on acrylic finishes so any input about it is greatly appreciated.


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## GoodTurns (Oct 12, 2009)

MikeDe said:


> I've not done any finishing in CA nor plexi as of yet. I'm leaning towards plexi 'cause I don't think I like what I hear about the breathing reactions and such after long term use of CA. I need what few brain cells I have left just to turn a decent pen. However, I'm trying to picture what you're saying about dipping and hanging. Does your mix of plexi not run or sag at all? After drying hasn't it created a small problem right around the bottom edge of your pen like extending over the edge? (another one or two, I'm not done yet)  About how much would be a sane amount to make at once and how long would that batch last on the shelf?
> Sorry to put so many questions into one post.



dip & flip .... dip and let the blank dry, then flip the blank and repeat.  repeat as many times as necessary to get the depth you want, then I sand and buff as I would a CA finish..you can adjust for any buildup when finish sanding.  I use a razor knife to trim the stoppers off of the blanks.  I have used the same pint can for a while, just adding acetone and plexi squares when it gets to shallow to dip, stir before using.


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## Frank Nemke sr (Oct 12, 2009)

Speaking of getting High, I knocked over a1 gal. container of Purple PVC primer.  It had a large cap on it and it poped off.  Spilled over 1/2 of it before I could get it picked up. Happened over a week ago.  My shop is in my carport, so Its open on two sides.  I still smell it every time I go in there


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## MikeDe (Oct 13, 2009)

GoodTurns said:


> dip & flip .... dip and let the blank dry, then flip the blank and repeat. repeat as many times as necessary to get the depth you want,
> 
> Aha. Thank you Jon. Now I have something to gnaw on. I'll see if I can take that handoff and run with it. We'll see what happens.


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## djz9 (Oct 13, 2009)

I use the Plexi on some woods, and I use a small squeeze bottle from a craft store. I use a pickel jar to mix mine in and just add more when it starts to set. I am on my 3rd year with it, and make it a little bit thicker then med. CA. I can keep it in the bottle forever as long as I switch it with some new every week or so if I have not used it. Also it is much cheaper then CA, but watch the fumes, they can catch fire very quick. Oh also turn the jar upside down every once in a while to make sure you get a good mix.


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## GouletPens (Oct 13, 2009)

I tried applying plexi on the lathe like with CA and got awful results. I since mastered CA but for certain pens I've considered lacquer dipping as an alternative, which is basically the exact same process as plexi dipping but using a different chemical. Any idea the stregths/weaknesses of plexi dipping vs. lacquer dipping?


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## djz9 (Oct 13, 2009)

I always use a paper towel, and just turn the chuck with one hand while rubbing it on with the other, then when it drys a quick samd, then a new coat, ect. ect. ect


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## jobogu (Oct 13, 2009)

*Plexi*

I am fairly new to turning pens, about 8 months or so, and until reading these posts had never heard of plexi.  I surmise it is made by dissolving pieces of plexiglass in acetone.  Is that correct and if so what is the ratio of the mix?  I have tried the CA finish and can never achieve much of a shine.  I have also tried EEE and shellawax and it looks good at first but after even a little handling it dulls.  Have tried Rennaisance wax over the shellawax and again it dulls after a little handling.  Was thinking of resorting to something like an acrylic spray.  Has anyone tried the acrylic and how does it hold up?  I have made several pens from Corian and really like the way they polish up and hold their shine.  Have almost decided to give up on wood unless I can find a better finish.


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## MikeDe (Oct 13, 2009)

jobogu said:


> I am fairly new to turning pens, about 8 months or so, and until reading these posts had never heard of plexi. I surmise it is made by dissolving pieces of plexiglass in acetone. Is that correct and if so what is the ratio of the mix?
> 
> Not a formula. Simply keep adding the plexi to the acetone until the saturation point. I.E., to the point to where the acetone will not disolve anymore plexi.


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## thewishman (Oct 13, 2009)

A good plexi finish is a bit harder than a CA finish (according to an old Russ Fairfield post that I cannot find now). It also has a hint of grip, a bit like the inlace acrylester blanks compared to PR blanks.

This post, scroll down to #10, explains Hewunch's method for a plexi finish:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41751&highlight=plexi

This thread shows my method:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36575&highlight=plexi


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## Sberger (Oct 14, 2009)

The CA glue is pretty toxic if you use it in the wrong way.  Law enforcement agencies use the CA glue to pull fingerprints off extremely tough areas like a body.  They cover the body with a hood type cover and heat up the CA glue and its fumes will make the prints stand out for a special dusting compound.  Watch CSI sometime.  Here is how I use CA for finishing and it works pretty good with very little toxic effects.  Keep the blanks on the mandrel and put the lathe on very low speed and apply a drop or two to the blank with the lathe on and quickly spread it over the blank with a light touch.  Let the glue dry for a few minutes and then buff with a paper towel.  Use fairly hard pressure on the towel buff until it is pretty hot.  This will melt the CA into the pores and provide a nice finish.  The trick is to let the CA dry prior to the hard buff.  If you buff it damp, the fumes will kill you.  Watch out!


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## jobogu (Oct 19, 2009)

*Plexi*

Just tried to use the plexi I mixed up for the first time.  It's about the consistency of syrup and I applied it with the lathe running.  Big mistake, awful results.  I should have read through these posts again especially the part about rubbing it on while turning the lathe by hand.  It very rapidly dried and turned opaque.  Tried to polish with 1500 grit wet and it would not clear up.  I applied it to a Harry Potter wand that I make for my grandkids and ended up sanding it off and then finishing with EEE and Shellawax.  I think I will thin the mix down a little and try putting it on with the lathe stopped.  Hope that helps.


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