# Laser Inlay Pen Kits



## 68plymouth (Nov 28, 2011)

I'm looking into making a laser inlay pen for a buddy of mine for Christmas. I have an laser and just finished building a rotary device for it.  All I'm wanting for is a 4 jaws independant chuck (in the mail).  My question is where can I get the base material?  I have a ton of veneers from other inlay work but I have not been able to find the basic blank for sale?  Any ideas?  

Dave


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## mrcook4570 (Nov 28, 2011)

Turn it from pen blanks.


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## 68plymouth (Nov 28, 2011)

is that the best way to do it?  I was hopping for something a little easier in case I destroy the blank with my laser.


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## KBs Pensnmore (Nov 29, 2011)

Anytime I'm about to make something I've not done before I always do a practice run.
Try using some timber similar to what you are going to make the pen from and use it as a practice piece. that way if it stuffs up you've not wasted anything but learnt something as well.
Kryn


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## 68plymouth (Nov 29, 2011)

Good Idea.  I have some pieces of maple I'll try and turn down to the correct size and start with that.  It shoud give me a good idea how the laser wil cut into the barrel.  I have lasered on maple and it comes out very clean. i'll post some pictures soon.  I hope to start this weekend.

Dave


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## Seer (Nov 29, 2011)

Turn them down to a little more than the correct size for the kit.  This allows for sanding and finishing them.  All the kits I have done are a little proud of the bushings and need to be finished with sandpaper or skew or whatever you use.


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## 68plymouth (Nov 29, 2011)

Sound good.  I'm making my own laser inlay kit for this pen.  Maybe I shoud have started with a production kit first?  Naw....that would be the wise thing to do!


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## 68plymouth (Nov 29, 2011)

I just got off the phone with Ken Nelsen at Kallenshaan Woods and he was a great help.  We had a good conversation and I now have a better understanding of the inlay process.  What I did not expect was to be able to reach Ken on the phone.  I was expecting to get stopped by a secretary or something.  Its nice to find out that serious wood turners alway have time to take a phone call.  I can't wait to try out some of my ideas when I get off of work tonight.  Thanks Ken for taking the time to take my call


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## NewLondon88 (Nov 29, 2011)

Plan on burning through a few blanks before you finally dial in your
settings. Consider it "R&D" costs.

And since you're speaking to Ken, ask him if he can crank out some
bored maple blanks for you. You'll get blanks without tubes, which you
really want for doing the inlays. You can't really turn your own blanks
easily without gluing in tubes, but you don't want them permanently
attached when you go to laser them. So this is a good option for you.

Slip a tube inside the blank and put that in your rotary. When it is done,
slip the tube back out. Then go wash all the gunk off of your hands. 
(really.. they'll be covered in resin!) Then wash the blank in alcohol or
acetone to get the gunk out of your blank. A plastic brush (toothbrush,
veggie brush etc.) will help clean the blank. A test tube brush is perfect
for cleaning the insides of the blank.

Also, consider dipping the blanks in plexitone before putting them in
the laser. It keeps the gunk down and gives a little cleaner cut, since
the maple is rather soft and the vector cuts can be hit or miss as far
as edge quality. Maple can be pretty inconsistent, so you'll hit hard and
soft spots all over the place, and they don't cut the same. Plexi can
help even this out.

just make sure the tube still slips in easily after the plexi. It doesn't take
much.. just a quick dip, so it shouldn't really change your ID that much.


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## 68plymouth (Nov 30, 2011)

Thanks for the info.  I looked up plexitone and I'll have to give it a try.  Got my chuck for my rotary and the threads are not the same.  Looks like the guy who built it for me undercut the thread size.  I going back to the drawing board on the rotary with the help of a metal guy and building this thing right.


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