# Which pen turning tools? Differences



## rkenly (Jan 16, 2012)

So I've been reading the forums everyday for the last 2 or 3 weeks since I've decided to start turning pens.

Going to purchase a $$$ worth of stuff in the next 10 days - including lathe, etc. (I get my yearly pay bonus on Friday)

Trying to figure out tools - Differences in Henry Taylor, Apprentice, Benjamin's Best, Delta, Crown, Sorby, Craftsman, and others.

Not trying to start a fight - but I assume all are HSS, but there are differences in HSS too.  What are the best bangs for the buck, or buy a skew from one, a fingernail, yada yada.  (this just comes from knowing that all of my different wood chisels are NOT created equal- and I recently received a SOG pocket knife - which is SCARY sharp)

Don't think I need to buy a 5 piece set? - seems you only need paring, skew, gouge.  But do you need a fingernail, deep, shallow?

Also what size - 1/2, 3/4, 3/8 for various tools.  Not quite sure the impact there.

As a newbie - don't want to purchase things I'll never use?

Seems like I should consider getting a woodchuck pen pro?  A lot of positives being said about it.

TIA-

>>>Rod<<<


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## PenMan1 (Jan 16, 2012)

I turn, almost exclusively, alternative materials. I have a drawer full of high dollar tools.

I find that all but two tools are in new, almost unused condition. On the other hand, my Woodchuck Pen Pro carbide insert cutter is so worn that it could really use a new handle (I'm really regretting epoxying on the existing handle). The other tool is a $22 carbide tipped 1/2 inch skew.  I make my own parting tools from Lennox recripocating saw blades.

The Woodchuck handles 99 percent of the workload and I finish with the cheap carbide skew simply because it maneuvers more easily in tight places.

I moved completely away from all HSS tools, because on the materials I use, the carbide produces a far superior finish cut.

I I did mostly wood, I'd like use the Sorby or Taylor HSS tools, as wood doesn't require the same level of finish as the alternative materials.

Respectfully submitted.


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## Whaler (Jan 16, 2012)

You will get many different replies and opinions on this and here is mine. All of my tools are gathering dust except for the Woodchuck Pen Pro, which is the most used, and I do occasionally use a skew and a Sorby Spindle Master.


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## ed4copies (Jan 16, 2012)

If possible, you should go to a WoodCraft and take a lesson.  Ask to try all the tools you might use (AFTER the lesson)---most have everything in their classrooms, see what you like.  Then, IMO, buy inexpensive tools to start (and a way to sharpen them).

After you've turned for a few months (and sharpened off a bunch of steel), you will have a better idea of what you want to use.


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## OldGrumpy (Jan 16, 2012)

Whaler said:


> You will get many different replies and opinions on this and here is mine. All of my tools are gathering dust except for the Woodchuck Pen Pro, which is the most used, and I do occasionally use a skew and a Sorby Spindle Master.


 

I have been turning a little over a year now.  Wish I would have know about the Woodchuck pen Pro when I started.  Got mine about a month ago and cannot believe the difference it makes.  Cut out other things if you don't have plenty of dollars but get this tool!


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## thewishman (Jan 16, 2012)

After trying several methods of sharpening and buying the right grinder... I almost exclusively use my Woodchuck. I could have saved a lot of money if I had bought that tool first.


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## IPD_Mr (Jan 16, 2012)

Andy is pretty dead on with the way he does things.  Right now I only use three tools.  The WoodChuck, a Lacer 5/8 skew and a cheap 3/16" parting tool.  I would get a cheap gouge and skew and learn to use the tools first.  Ed's advice is not off base at all.  What if you don't like turning?  Things to think and ponder.  You did real good by asking first.  That way you can make an informed decision based on a large number of experiences.


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## GoatRider (Jan 16, 2012)

Another opinion- those "mini" tools are pretty much useless. You'd think you'd want tiny tools on a tiny lathe to make tiny things, but it's just not true. A big handle gives you finer control. The 5 piece set of Sorby "mini" tools is what gathers the most dust in my shop, I only ever occasionally use the parting tool from it. I mostly use a 1 inch skew for my pens, but have recently been starting to use an Easy Wood Tools rougher. Still not comfortable with it so I'm mostly using it for roughing, and finishing with a skew. I use a half-inch fingernail bowl gouge for my small bowls.


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## HoratioHornblower (Jan 16, 2012)

My thoughts are with Ed. Buy the cheap full sized set from Harbor Freight and then invest in more expensive tools after a few months. I personally prefer using the scraper INSTEAD of the gouge. I never would have thought that at first, so I saved a lot of money by waiting for better tools. (I didn't have much in the way of funds anyway...) Right now almost all I use is the scraper, then the skew, then occasionally the parting tool. Woodchuck is in the future. Good luck!
 
Sincerely,
David


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## TomWalton (Jan 16, 2012)

*the Luddite view*

Disqualification:  I mostly turn larger stuff; bowls, hollow vessels and platters. Pens are a (very enjoyable, and popular with family and friends) Christmas season activity for me. 

I agree with GoatRider - the "mini" tools work against you.  A full-sized tool with a proper handle will let you use your body to stabilize your cut, and allow you to relax your hands and focus on the shape.  

Second, for long-grain pieces as tiny as pens, a carbide scraper (Easy Tools, Woodchuck Pen Pro,  et al) is a blunt instrument.  Sure, you *can* scrape and sand your way to a pen shape, but you'll never match the finish, efficiency, and satisfaction you get from a skew chisel, or a spindle gouge. 

In my view, you need a (full-sized) 1" or 1 1/4" skew chisel (get Alan Lacer's DVD for an introduction to how to use it). You can rough down, shape, and finish a pen with *one* tool, with minimal sanding.  If you think you'll be making pens with lots of beads and coves, a small detail gouge would help. Don't succumb to the "scrape and sand" mentality.  Its easy to learn, but doesn't lead anywhere as you mature as a turner.

The skew takes a while to learn, but it produces a superior finish to a carbide scraper and, if you move to making other/larger objects than pens, is well worth the investment in time.

--Tom


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## jjudge (Jan 16, 2012)

Yes on the skew. Once your learn the skew, you will use it a lot more than other tools.

However, I've been using my recently home-made carbide tools. Yes, you can scrape your way to making something ... but you don't have to.

I put my tips on a 3/8" rod. So, I'm tilting the tool to ride the cutting edge, twisting the angle to shave streamers off  acrylic, etc.

I'm thinking it'd be less "grabby," though, if I'd bough the radiused square tips. You really have to watch that you won't dig in, because a catch of the corner will tear into the material.


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## rkenly (Jan 17, 2012)

*skew video*

I'll look for the Lacer video.  Hadn't heard of it.  Since I don't plan on doing bowls (but then I hadn't thought about doing pens >grin<), I was not thinking about the big bowl tools at all.

>>>Rod<<<


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## el_d (Jan 17, 2012)

I got a nice 1" sorby skew that sees no action at all with my pens.

If you plan on just pens then I would highly suggest the Woodchuck. A nice sharp carbide tip does well with wood and acrylic I dont use sandpapper till after I put the finish on the wood. 

If your going to make other turnings I like Thompson tools.


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## kovalcik (Jan 17, 2012)

What all do you envision turning?  I do a little of everything.  What I did is I bought Benjamin Best tools to start with. I have a 1/2" skews, 3/4" roughing gouge that I use for 99% of my pen turning. I have a couple of carbide tools that I made, but I get better results on pens with a skew.  I also have other tools I use for spindle and bowl turning. If you sharpen often the BB tools do fine. My plan is to replace them with  better tools one at a time as I can afford it.   

The best advice I can offer is to find some other turners at clubs or a class  and try out some different tools. Learn how to use each one correctly, and then buy what works for you.   As far as price, the better tools take and hold an edge better, but if you learn to sharpen, the more economical tools will due the job.


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## ericd (Jan 17, 2012)

Pick up a basic tool set: gouge, skew, scraper, parting tool.  I got the Harbor Freight set.  Mine has served me well, thus far. 

When I first started, I thought I needed a bunch of things to turn.  The more I turn, the less I seem to need.


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## BSea (Jan 17, 2012)

I bought a pen-pro, but I remove most of the material with a roughing  gouge.  I also have been using my 1/2" skew more & more.  Now my pen-pro  just does the final cleanup before sanding.  I'd suggest trying a few  before you buy (if possible).  If I am doing a bottle stopper, I might  use a spindle gouge depending on the shape.  To give you an idea, my  wolverine sharpening rig is set for my roughing gouge about 95% of the  time.  It takes about 15 seconds to give it a new edge.  It saves on  wear & tear on the carbide insert of the pen-pro.  As you can see, there are lots of options, and you'll find your own comfort zone with your tools.  But that means there is no perfect answer.


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## RogerH (Jan 17, 2012)

I have a lot of respect for Ed, but I have a cheap set of Craftsmen tools that I never use.  Bad investment in my opinion.

When I got Sorby HSS tools my work improved instantly.  I like the 1/2 spindle gouge, 1" roughing gouge and 3/4 oval skew best.  Although sometimes the skew gets mad at me.

The woodchuck pen pro is, for this relative newbie, good but not as much fun as the HSS Sorby's.  I just like how they cut-very predictable and controllable for me.


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## keithkarl2007 (Jan 17, 2012)

ed4copies said:


> If possible, you should go to a WoodCraft and take a lesson.  Ask to try all the tools you might use (AFTER the lesson)---most have everything in their classrooms, see what you like.  Then, IMO, buy inexpensive tools to start (and a way to sharpen them).
> 
> After you've turned for a few months (and sharpened off a bunch of steel), you will have a better idea of what you want to use.



Agreed. Sharpening is an art in itself and its better to hone your skills on inexpensive tools which will require regular sharpening than grind away steel from more expensive tools. When you feel you are improving in turning and sharpening then you could move onto more reliable tools.


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