# Drilling a metal pen blank???



## jttheclockman (Oct 10, 2010)

If you had a segmented all metal pen blank how would you drill for the tubes???  I need to use the tubes to help give it strength. What  type drill bits would you use other than the obvious sharp ones:biggrin:

I am or have been very reluctant to do this in fear of ripping the segments with a drill bit. I was thinking of doing it in steps. Any suggestions.???


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## bitshird (Oct 10, 2010)

John what kind of metals? and I guess they are glued with CA or epoxy?


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## ldb2000 (Oct 10, 2010)

When I did this pen I used my normal drill bits , just drilled slow to keep heat to a minimum and cleared the chips often , the brass centerband segments are glued in with epoxy

.


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## jttheclockman (Oct 10, 2010)

bitshird said:


> John what kind of metals? and I guess they are glued with CA or epoxy?


 

Brass and aluminum. Glued in with epoxy.


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## JJturns (Oct 11, 2010)

I agree with Butch.  Also make sure you use the proper drill speed for the bit diameter and metal.  The aluminum will hang chip up easier than the brass.  Slow and easy and you will do fine.  I'm looking forward to see the pen.

JJ


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## cnirenberg (Oct 11, 2010)

John,
I have found it more than helpfull to use a center drill to start the hole, then continue with standard bits.  Drill slow and easy and keep the bit cleaned and lubricated.  Can't wait to see the finished result.


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## gawdelpus (Oct 11, 2010)

As a retired fitter and turner I would suggest drilling with the right size drill ,with the softer materials brass and aluminium the drill would tend to bite in if it is only drilling on the flutes , using a drill on the full dia the point will tend to stop it biting in and give you better control of your feed in. Aluminium likes a sharp drill with good clearance rakes, the shavings will come off in continuous spirals, brass is more brittle and tends to break up so a slight stoning of the cutting edges to make it less sharp and stop it biting in and jamming , so you have two dissimilar metals and cutting properties to deal with ,if the segments are only small may be ok ,keep some spray lubricant handy , I use kerosene or WD40 a penetrating lubricant to keep things working nicely while drilling . I do have a centre lathe that helps this sort of job ,especially truestone and some other hard to drill materials , good luck with it though should be a worthwhile project going by some of your other projects hehe, cheers ~ John


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## jttheclockman (Oct 11, 2010)

The segmentation is a celtic knot so not sure if that is all that big of a deal if some of you are looking for something more exiting.:biggrin:

That probably is my main question in that should I drill with a full sized bit or should I step it???  Have one shot at this.


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## mywoodshopca (Oct 11, 2010)

What about drilling the center out with a small bit first then going to the correct size..

I have been drilling a LOT of aluminum lately (drilling and tapping about 100+ holes) while building my CNC machine so I would recommend you go slow and use drilling lubricant. WD40, tapping stuff, etc..

If I was doing it, I would do it with 2-3 different sizes and take a little off each time. You also dont want to get it too hot to loosen any epoxy.


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## ldb2000 (Oct 11, 2010)

If you try to drill it out in steps the next larger bit is going to try and self feed into the existing hole and you will most likely pull the joints apart . You were right when you said you only have one shot at it so use the correct sized bit and drill it in one shot .


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## jttheclockman (Oct 11, 2010)

ldb2000 said:


> If you try to drill it out in steps the next larger bit is going to try and self feed into the existing hole and you will most likely pull the joints apart . You were right when you said you only have one shot at it so use the correct sized bit and drill it in one shot .


 

Well  that makes it a done deal. 2 of you mention drill in one shot. I trust you guys for experience and I will drill slow and lubricate. It is on my to do list for the next 2 weeks. Have to get ready for a show. Thanks all.


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## workinforwood (Oct 11, 2010)

The aluminum will blow right through easy..it's the brass that can be a little tougher because brass although soft too, generates a lot of heat real quick and heat is your enemy because heat is what will weaken the glue.  Tape the bejeezes out of the blank before you drill it.  Maybe even glue some wood vertical on all 4 edges would be the very best, because if any glue does go soft during drilling, the outer shell will hold it all together and the glue will re-harden when it cools.


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## BRobbins629 (Oct 11, 2010)

I'm with Jeff on this one.  Eagle used to wrap gauze around his segmented blanks while dousing with thin CA.  Built up quite a layer.  Then turned between centers to round again before drilling in a collet chuck.  Saved many a precious blank.


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## DurocShark (Oct 11, 2010)

I do lots of work with aluminum and brass. I've even drilled both with brad-point bits, but I don't recommend it.

I have found that a brad point makes for some touchy drilling when you're talking about an inlay of metal. It'll snag and rip and tear the blank apart.

Use a regular twist bit. I prefer the lathe to drill in general, but especially for this kind of material. The tailstock doesn't try to pull back like a drill press does, so you're not trying to balance several factors when carefully drilling the blank. The tailstock quill is advanced by GENTLY turning the crank. 

DO NOT LET THE BIT GET HOT!!! You will destroy the glue bond (unless you used JBWeld... Another thread...)


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## gr8danish (Oct 11, 2010)

I make a TON of metal & plastic segmented pens... The BEST way of drilling the blank is to make a custom collet the full size of the blank out of PVC or Delrin. Make sure that the collet fits the blank snugly, but not so tight that you can't get the blank out. Cut slots lengthwise along the side of the collet to provide some relief for clamping.

Drill using your lathe. If you can, get a 4-flute endmill the appropriate size for your tube. Start by center drilling the end of the blank. Then use the endmill instead of a drill bit to create the hole. Make sure you use a TON of lubricant. WD40 works great for this. If you see smoke, STOP DRILLING! Pull the mill out and wait for it to cool off. Then resume.

Hope that this helps!


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## jttheclockman (Oct 11, 2010)

DurocShark said:


> I do lots of work with aluminum and brass. I've even drilled both with brad-point bits, but I don't recommend it.
> 
> I have found that a brad point makes for some touchy drilling when you're talking about an inlay of metal. It'll snag and rip and tear the blank apart.
> 
> ...


 


I did use JBWELD. Was that not the thing to do???


I don't trust drilling in my drill press. It right now is a square block. I am going to find centers and then center punch. I then will use the lathe to round the blank using my dead center and live center. I will then swith to the collet chuck and drill slowly and carefully using the size bit I need for the tubes. Hopefully it will survive. I will then use the skew to shape it. I will probably be putting on a majestic  or majestic jr. Have not decided yet. Should I use a kit with gold or all silver??? 

When I did this blank which was quite awhile ago I wasn't sure if I wanted to add some more banding and I an still not sure yet. That may hold me back from doing this yet. Some times I have a hard time visualizing a finished project.

Thanks all for the help.


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## DurocShark (Oct 11, 2010)

JBWeld has a MUCH higher heat tolerance than typical epoxy, or CA glues. 

You have a little more freedom with the JBWeld as far as heat goes. HOWEVER, it doesn't help a snag that'll tear the blank apart.


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