# Newbie Finishing Question



## sequoia (Feb 15, 2015)

Hi All,

Sorry if this is a repetitively themed question.  I have been turning pens so far without buffing.  I am about to purchase a buffing system to use as my last stage.  The Beall 3 on lathe system is most likely what I will be going with for wood buffing.  

Here's my current finishing process for wood.  I'd like to have critiques on this as sometimes I can get dark lines which wrap around the pen blank which appear during the sanding process.  I am not sure if they came during turning or during sanding, but appear during sanding/finishing.  Perhaps my finishing technique is causing this.

I turn until I come close to the pen bushings.  I then use 120 grit paper and then go all the way to 1200-1500 for wood.  I then use eee ultra shine paste and end with liquid shella wax.  I used to go from sand paper to mylands when I first started.  Is Mylands not needed anymore in this process if I use shellawax?  

For Acrylic, I use sand paper until 1500 and then start using the MM pads with water and then apply hut ultra gloss.

If anyone has any comments or suggestions for adding certain steps, critiquing my steps or using other products, I would appreciate it.  

Thank you all for your time and assistance,

Matt


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## 1080Wayne (Feb 16, 2015)

The dark lines wrapping around the blank are either tool marks which have not been sanded out or steel dust from the bushings which has been transferred to the blank by allowing the sandpaper to contact the bushing . Always a good idea to demount the blank and sand lengthways by hand between grits to remove radial marks .


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## JimB (Feb 16, 2015)

I believe you are going backwards if you go to 1500 sandpaper and then start at the first of the 9 steps of micro mesh. If you go to the home page and look on the right side there is a link to a chart for sanding grit comparisons.


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## Dan Masshardt (Feb 16, 2015)

Mylands and shellawax are very similar.  Using both on one pen is pointless.  

Well we are at it, just switch to pens plus.  It's a better product IMO.  and equally easy to use. 

I do remember getting nervous about getting close to bushings but learn to get all the way with the tools.  

Sounds like you're off to a good start.


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## Dan Masshardt (Feb 16, 2015)

Also with wood, do an experiment.  With one blank, do your normal sanding and eee wax.  Then do another of the same wood and stop at 600 or 800 and use the eee wax.  Tell me if you can tell any difference in the finished product.


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## sequoia (Feb 16, 2015)

JimB said:


> I believe you are going backwards if you go to 1500 sandpaper and then start at the first of the 9 steps of micro mesh. If you go to the home page and look on the right side there is a link to a chart for sanding grit comparisons.



Hi Jim

I use the micro mesh for my acrylic pens (while taking my wooden blanks to 1500 and then using the paste/liquid to finish).  My micro mesh pads start out at 1500, which is why I take it from there until the acrylic polish.  

Hope this clarifies things.

Matt


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## JimB (Feb 16, 2015)

sequoia said:


> JimB said:
> 
> 
> > I believe you are going backwards if you go to 1500 sandpaper and then start at the first of the 9 steps of micro mesh. If you go to the home page and look on the right side there is a link to a chart for sanding grit comparisons.
> ...



Hi Matt,

I still think you are going backwards. 1500 MM is not the same as 1500 sandpaper. 1500 MM is equal to about 400 grit sand paper (USA scale) and about P800 (Euro scale). Check out the chart on the IAP Home Page. It's on the right side and called Abrasive Comparisons. 

Maybe I'm wrong or misunderstanding what you are doing but take a look at the chart. 

Maybe someone else will chime in as well.

Just trying to help.


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## BigNick73 (Feb 16, 2015)

JimB said:


> sequoia said:
> 
> 
> > JimB said:
> ...




I'm new but think that chart might be a bit off, or dependent on the brand of paper or MM. I start MM at 1500 and it's definitely leaving smaller sanding marks and a smoother finish than the 600 grit aluminum oxide paper I used before it, wet or dry. This is according to my highly uncalibrated eyeball grit meter. 

For the OP I've had great luck just taking the MM all the way to 12,000 wet on acrylic, and then using that hut plastic polish on a paper towel, all on the lathe. For wood I'll go to 12,000 MM dry then apply CA, smooth any ridges etc with 600 AO and start running thought the MM wet until 12,000 then buff with a paper towel and some "scratch doctor" auto polish that I had laying around that turned out to work great. For acrylic burl cap type blanks I wet sand and let the wood dry before starting CA. 

Taking the wood the 12,000 before a finish is probably way overkill but I've been really happy with the end results. Also, stop between grits, you'll learn what they should look like, all nice and uniform. If you have some sanding marks that are too big or don't look right keep going before going up a grit or even go back a grit or two.


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## magpens (Feb 16, 2015)

In my opinion, 120 grit is way too coarse unless you are still shaping your pen.  I do all my shaping with my lathe tools.  The blank is then usually very smooth.  I start sanding with 240 grit, and some folks would say that's even too coarse.


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## sequoia (Feb 17, 2015)

Mal,

Thanks for saving me some time here!  Yes, it appears that 400 grit is about 1500MM.  I have only been using MM for Acrylic.  This will save me some paper and time.  Perhaps I will start at 240, head to 400 and then switch over to MM for plastic.

I believe for Wood, I will just use the paper and cut out anything coarser than 240.

Much appreciated.

Matt


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## sequoia (Feb 17, 2015)

Thanks Big Nick!

You have saved me some time!  No need to duplicate my work!

Matt


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## bgio13 (Feb 17, 2015)

magpens said:


> In my opinion, 120 grit is way too coarse unless you are still shaping your pen.  I do all my shaping with my lathe tools.  The blank is then usually very smooth.  I start sanding with 240 grit, and some folks would say that's even too coarse.



I agree with Mal, 120 is way too coarse. The one thing I wish someone told me when I started turning is spend your time learning how to use the skew, don't spend your time sanding. I started with 120 sandpaper because that's what was in the starter pack I bought, but could never get all the scratches out. I spent more time learning to use the skew and now I am able to get close to the bushing, and have a smooth finish that I am able to start sanding with 400. This not only saves time but also money on sandpaper. If you do start with 240, don't skip grits and go to 400, make sure to use 320. Check out this website: Russ's Corner: A WoodCentral Archive  lots of info on finishing. Hope this helps,

Bill


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## sbwertz (Feb 17, 2015)

Check out this video...it is the easiest finish I have ever used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc


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