# Leather Pen....



## gothycdesigns (Dec 6, 2009)

I work for a shoe manufacturing company called (shameless plug here) West Coast Shoe Co. www.wescoboots.com.  Anyways....I have leather at my disposal from the scraps of making the boots. The other day I had an idea if I could make a blank and turn it so I tried and heres my results...

Using 9oz. leather (1/4" thick) I cut pieces into 1"x1" squares...And drilled them with a 7mm bit, will be using a basic slimline kit...






Using thin CA, I glued the pieces onto the tubes one by one, first the hole then surrounding leather surface until the tube was full. A for something different I also added 3 strips of 7oz. Burgandy for the bottom and 1 strip on the top blank. I compressed them with quickgrip clamps for about 20 minutes.




And also dowsed the edges with more thin CA..





So I started turning on my new Nova 1624 the shape of the blanks, when I was happy with a design I started doing a CA finish as best as I could (still learning that process)...





When I was satisfied with the the finish, I started putting it all together. This is the end result....












I think I'll be making more leather pens this Christmas so I call it a great find. Funny since I've been working with leather at the company for 10yrs. it finally hits me to try making a pen with it...lol.



Thanks for looking

Ray K.


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## Dan26 (Dec 6, 2009)

Cool looking pen, Ray. Do you think they will believe you when you tell them it's leather? It will make a unique gift.


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## Karin Voorhis (Dec 6, 2009)

That is really cool. Plus on another note I took a peak at your myspace and I love your other works.


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## gothycdesigns (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks !!  It was fun to make, no more time than any other setup needed really. The only thing about it, i was hoping for a light color turnout than it did. But its growing on me. I don't know if anyone else has done a leather pen blank, I'm sure I'm not the only one, I haven't seen anything around online. Since I have access to the leather, I'll definitely be making more.

Thanks Karin for check'n out my page. I'm always tinkering with something as you can see.


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## TerryBlanchard (Dec 6, 2009)

that is really pretty cool, nice job


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## WoodWizard (Dec 6, 2009)

LOL....I got on here to ask about a leather pen....and your post was right there. I am going to attempt it...using old belt..( doesn't fit anymore....MUST be someone elses...like a KID!) will post results when im done...hope it looks as nice as yours!
Job well done :biggrin:


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## jskeen (Dec 6, 2009)

Stacked leather has always been a hit for me on top of a 30 caliber casing pen.  Combination M1 Garand/ka-bar look goes over big with the guys down at the VFW.


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## DennisM (Dec 6, 2009)

gothycdesigns said:


> Thanks !! It was fun to make, no more time than any other setup needed really. The only thing about it, i was hoping for a light color turnout than it did. But its growing on me. I don't know if anyone else has done a leather pen blank, I'm sure I'm not the only one, I haven't seen anything around online. Since I have access to the leather, I'll definitely be making more.
> 
> Thanks Karin for check'n out my page. I'm always tinkering with something as you can see.


 
For a lighter color, what about turning in on the tube untill its just about finished size, then have someone cast it in clear PR?

No CA to darken the leather then. easy to finish then light turn then MM


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## Texatdurango (Dec 6, 2009)

Another member made some pens from leather and had a neat write up on it, you might find it an interesting read.... http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/Leather_Cigar_pen.pdf

I think Don Ward also made some from leather a few years ago but I can't find anything in the library.

Looks like you ahve free blank material for a while


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## nava1uni (Dec 7, 2009)

Very cool pen.  I used to be a leather crafter and think it would be cool to have a leather notebook to go with the pen.  I have made leather pens and you could also dye the leather with Feibings dye and create something similar to segmenting.


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## CSue (Dec 7, 2009)

Texatdurango said:


> Another member made some pens from leather and had a neat write up on it, you might find it an interesting read.... http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/Leather_Cigar_pen.pdf
> 
> I think Don Ward also made some from leather a few years ago but I can't find anything in the library.
> 
> Looks like you ahve free blank material for a while


 

Yeah, Texdurango, I thought I remembered that being in our library.

Cool looking pen, Ray.  And I really like the design, too.  Great work.

I've also worked in leather.  Wish I could remember how I did the lacing (in my younger days.)


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## dankc908 (Dec 7, 2009)

That is one fine pen made by a true craftsman and artist.  Excellent idea and many thanks for sharing!

Dan


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## PaulD (Dec 7, 2009)

Regular wood dyes also work fine with leather.  At a recent craft show, I had two of the three leather pens I have made sell.


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## its_virgil (Dec 7, 2009)

Leather pens have been done. I wasn't going to comment on that but since you brought it up I don't consider this a hijack of your thread. I have an article on my website about making a leather pen. the blank was made much like yours but the pen itself is a different design using the slimline kit. You may get some ideas from looking: http://www.RedRiverPens.com/articles
Do a good turn daily!
Don

]





gothycdesigns said:


> I don't know if anyone else has done a leather pen blank, I'm sure I'm not the only one, I haven't seen anything around online.


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## gothycdesigns (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks everyone. I was going to look into using dyes as well to see what could happen. I will definitely check out the articles listed. I had to cut out a lot of leather insoles today and looking at the amount of scrap I had there. I was looking at probably a hundred blanks that could be made from it...lol. yep got my work cut out.

Curious to know though, how much is a good price for a leather pen. Depending on kit used too, but would $20-30 sound reasonable? Definitely some time involved cutting the pieces. And I know how many pieces make a blank at 1/4" thick.

any more thought would be great to consider.  Thanks all for your kind words. I will post the next leather pen soon.


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## Bree (Dec 8, 2009)

Nice job!  I wonder about the hard finish on the leather.  Leather is flexible and I fear that the finish might crack.  In any case, you might try it with no traditional pen finish at all.  After all it is a totally different substrate than wood.  

Instead you might try some neatsfoot oil which is a common leather finish and conditioner.  It will slightly darken the leather and tend to soften it.  I would be very curious to see how something like that would turn out.

Anyway, you did a great job with the pen and the tutorial.  Thanks for sharing!
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## fyrcaptn (Dec 8, 2009)

*leather pen*

I've always been a fan of leather goods and some of the pens I've seen have been great.
Yours came out quite well. Waiting to see more of them. 
I tried turning some leather for a knife handle once. I settled on another medium.
I'd like to try again now I think. Better equipment and tools, experience, and mostly patience ought to make quite a difference in the outcome.
Btw - I have an 11 year old pair of WESCO boots. Not cheap, but quite a quality investment. No doubt they will last me many more years to come. For the money definately a bargain over the years.


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## gothycdesigns (Dec 8, 2009)

Bree ~ Thanks, The leather I used is a thick rawhide Iron 9oz. leather. its pretty stable, I think its grade 5. Its what we use for making the WESCO boots at the company I work for. Yep, neetsfoot oil also well known at the factory, we dip our stock boots in that before shipping. Its leather that hasn't gone into the process of oil tanning yet so still naked leather as its called. Thanks again I am anxious to make another 

fyrcaptn ~ Glad to hear your Wescos are going strong. I am in the custom fit dept. so if you ever need to update your info, let me know. If you decide to use leather again, look 9oz. grade 5 leather its stiff and should hold a shape pretty well. I also have to use it to make specialty buildups for customers measurements on the custom boots. PM me I might be able to get you some pieces to try.


ThX


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## rjwolfe3 (Dec 8, 2009)

How do you know which leather is good to use? I would like to try one but not sure what type of leather to buy.


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## hunter-27 (Dec 8, 2009)

I used an old worn out pair of work boots, it turned out fine.  I don't think it matters much as long as it is dry when you start.


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## nava1uni (Dec 9, 2009)

I think that your price is too low for the amount of time and energy used to make this pen.  Your pen is nicely done and it is unique so I think that the price should be reflective of all of the facts.


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## CSue (Dec 9, 2009)

The pen looks really beautiful.  

The pumpkin can use some help, though.:biggrin:


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## TellicoTurning (Dec 9, 2009)

I do like the look of the leather blank... can't say I care much for your design - pen shape - but that's me and my opinion which is worth every cent you paid for it...


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## gothycdesigns (Dec 11, 2009)

Oil tanned leather is best to use or the more raw leather. Oil tanned leather has been processed with oil solutions. the raw is just before they get into their recipes of dyes and salts and such. Silicone leathers would be to thin or flimsy because the silicone softens the fibers. A old leather belt could work too, but I would suggest making sure it hasn't taken on too much sweat from wearing. Even though the CA would harden the leather, its the sweat salt that will deteriorate the leather. Or leathers that have been heavily waxed, it may just make a gummy mess and the CA won't penetrate well since waxes are made to repel.

Yesterday I stopped in the local Rockler, had to pick up some blanks to replace the ones that PSI did not ship me.....anyways getting into conversation with the sales guy, I mentioned I turned one in leather. He was curious and said I should bring in a few samples to show the manager about selling blanks or small bags of squares to build a blank. Since I have all the scrap leather at my graps....we'll see how that goes it just getting time to do it.

The design of the pen, to me, is just ok. I was kinda going with more of a basic shape but the leather, keep in mind this is the first leather pen i turned and first time turning leather in general, the shape took on itself. I will say you do use quite a bit of thin CA but thats what I was thinking it needed. So I'm sure next time experimenting I'll try using less and more on final rounding to make the finish, most would have soaked into the leather from the tube hole anyways to give support there. And would also say it, like the acrylics, should keep tools sharp. At work tools get dulled quite fast and are constantly sharpening all the time.

As for pricing....higher....hmm. Well thats good to think I could get more for them. Then in that case with time involved with cutting the pieces and drilling, then maybe $40-45 based on a basic slimline kit used on it. I'll have to do some figuring....the wheels are turning now.

And last but not least.....yes the pumpkin is on its last leg for looks. its a small sugar pumpkin. one that got left behind when making the pies...hehe.

Thanks for the input and glad to have shared. I'll post another one soon. Maybe "DUCKS" inspired since we are going tot he Rose Bowl.


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## W.Y. (Dec 12, 2009)

That is a real nice leather pen you made Ray . Yours does have a unique shape  and a great finish.  I like the way you were able to keep the finished pen a lighter color than most leather pens I have seen. 


I have only made two leather pens just from old leather belts. One in a click top Sierra and one  in a Cigar pen.

It was mentioned here about using just an oil finish but I think that would get discolored with use  and  would also make it too soft a surface. But then those qualities might apply to some that like a "rustic" look .

I used basically the same system as you for making it and about the only difference was in the finish where  you used CA and I used BLO/CA  .

On the Cigar pen I used a few pieces of light gray leather in with the  darker pieces but they too turned dark with the CA . 

I still have both of mine . I get lots of oohhs and aahhhs  but no takers yet even at $29.00 . I started  at $49.00 and kept coming down.
 I really like the CA or the BLO/CA for a good durable and long wearing  pen finish.
Here is the Sierra one that I made that went real dark compared to the color of leather  I started  out with  . For the cigar one I used a different type of  glue that did not darken the leather as much ..


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## gothycdesigns (Dec 12, 2009)

Thanks William, I like the looks of that Sierra aswell. I just got 2 Sierra kits from Rockler the other day on sale. I was going to try one of those in leather. Now I can see what it may look like.

There was a thread here about some vids showing the CA and BLO process. Honestly I thought that leather I turned was going to turn out darker because fo the CA. But really the leather is not as porous as one would think at least this stuff I've got. Its processed specifically for shoe making to help resist sweat. x-tanned as its called. Basically processed raw 2 times. Kinda like Pressure Treated wood is.

I've only used BLO on wood I've turned, gives a nice finish. Probably because I didn't do anything else to the leather besides the CA when turning it, That's probably why its lighter in color. I'm gonna make a pen in leather and try some colors on it. A guy at work is big fan of the Oregon Ducks so I thought about doing some green and yellow leather strips. I'll post that soon sometime this week. and will do a CA finish again.

William nice pen, thanks again for sharing.

Ray


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## W.Y. (Dec 12, 2009)

Will be intersting to see how your colored ones turn out. Good luck with that.

As for the BLO/CA  finish , it seems there are many variations to it . This is the first video I ever made   a while back  on my particular way of doing it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

The part I like about it is that there is no sanding after applying the CA and it only takes seconds per coat.

What works for some  might not work for others but this  particular way of applying it works well for me and is the method I used on the leather  Sierra pen I showed. .


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## ZanderPommo (Dec 12, 2009)

wow that video gets way faster better results than i do w/12 coats.
i see you apply the BLO first. thats uncommon. i have heard that that can prevent a good finish from adhering. have you had that problem?
i do like 12 coats ca then blo and then sand down w/mm to 12,000 grit, and still often sand through the finish!
i'd love to get the results you are getting. do you use thin CA?


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## Texatdurango (Dec 12, 2009)

Ray, or anyone who knows leather,

Since seeing a pen recently, my mind has been on a leather wrapped pen.  To see what I am talking about please visit http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54696 and look at the third pen photo in post #13, the one with the tan leather look with the stitching.

Do you think it possible to get some nice leather that is really thin and wrap it around a blank then stitch it up?


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## W.Y. (Dec 13, 2009)

ZanderPommo said:


> wow that video gets way faster better results than i do w/12 coats.
> i see you apply the BLO first. thats uncommon. i have heard that that can prevent a good finish from adhering. have you had that problem?
> i do like 12 coats ca then blo and then sand down w/mm to 12,000 grit, and still often sand through the finish!
> i'd love to get the results you are getting. do you use thin CA?


 
The BLO does not prevent the CA from adhering at all. It actually acts as an accelerator  and  provides  curing of the CA. That along with finger pressure to create heat is what causes the cure in the short time as shown.
The video shows a certain number of coats but that is not written in stone . Anywhere from three  to 7 or eight  is just fine. It sometimes depends on the kind of wood being used. 
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is that I wipe the blank with either acetone or DNA before applying the finish . It cleans and prepares the wood for the finish to be applied regardless of what type of finish is being uesd. I use medium CA. I believe that is shown in the video . It will give a better build than thin CA and therefore less coats are required .  Thick CA 'can' be used but it takes a little longer curing time  so I find medium to be  a happy medium (pun intended) :wink:


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## ZanderPommo (Dec 13, 2009)

ok. yes i had been using med. as well
do you change your method with 2 piece pens?
maybe we should switch this to PM also, as this sort of is diverging from the subject of this thread


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## W.Y. (Dec 13, 2009)

ZanderPommo said:


> ok. yes i had been using med. as well
> do you change your method with 2 piece pens?
> maybe we should switch this to PM also, as this sort of is diverging from the subject of this thread


 
Same method with two piece pens


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## ablair (Dec 13, 2009)

great pen!


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