# How to remove dust from pores after sanding wood ?



## marian (Mar 27, 2015)

I would like to make oil finish on my wood pens, but after sanding pores are full of dust. I think it is no good for oil finish and I’m wondering is it some good way to get rid off this dust before oiling. Dust is strongly packed in pores and I’m not sure that vacuuming is enough to resolve the problem.

In internet I find some general solutions, but I’m curious what do you use for your pens with oil finish especially.

Do You have some practical ideas ?

Marian


----------



## Silverado (Mar 27, 2015)

Have you tried compressed air?


----------



## George417 (Mar 27, 2015)

Silverado said:


> Have you tried compressed air?



+2 on air compressor


----------



## 1080Wayne (Mar 27, 2015)

After the compressed air , use the point of a pin in the holes that didn`t clear . However , the sanding dust should be the same colour as the wood , and it will absorb the oil and take on the same colour , so if some of the dust doesn`t come out , it may not matter . It will matter though if the wood has very contrasting colours .


----------



## WriteON (Mar 27, 2015)

I'd like to try Oil as I'm currently working on Civil War Pens using wood. What oil are you using... Brand, type etc. Thank you. Frank


----------



## co_goose (Mar 27, 2015)

I wipe the wood with Naptha, that usually gets all of the dust out of the pores, and it evaporates very quickly


----------



## LeeR (Mar 27, 2015)

I'm not sure any dust remaining after a good blast of compressed air is going to be noticed.  I routinely blast a turning to clear the dust, with very good results.


----------



## Warren White (Mar 27, 2015)

*Shop vac*

I use my shop vac, with my hand cupped around the blank for added suction.  I also clean the blank, but with denatured alcohol.


----------



## greggas (Mar 27, 2015)

I wipe with Acetone or DNA, works great


----------



## robutacion (Mar 27, 2015)

A tooth brush is a great tool to use in conjunction with compressed air, very rarely I need to use a pin to dig out a tiny hole, most come out with a good jet of compressed air and a blow gun.

If you don't have a compressor, you can get air jet cans but, there is an expensive way to use compressed air, but a way, never the less...!

Cheers
George


----------



## greggas (Mar 27, 2015)

I wipe with Acetone or DNA, works great


----------



## KenV (Mar 27, 2015)

Hi marion -

I have no idea what oil finishes you have available in Poland, but suspect you will have "Stand Oil" as it is often available with artist supplies.   Stand Oil is linseed oil that has been heated in the absence of oxygen and was a component in artist oil paints and other paints for a long long time.  The heating causes the oil to partially polymerize and it develops a golden thick honey like fluid.  I use it as it is available as a gun stock finish in the USA.  It will develop a moderate luster finish with repeated coats - each allowed to cure for a few days.  It is a slow finish to build.

I also use walnut oils that have been heat processed from a couple of sources.  They are often used on utility bowls and work on pens where an oil finish is adequate.

I use tooth brushes a lot to clear debris and sanding swarf.  Compressed air is handy with the brush - but be careful to protect your eyes when blowing thing off.


----------



## marian (Mar 30, 2015)

Thank you all for your advice. I don't have compressed air so I'll try with DNA or something like that (I heard that many people use white spirit or mineral spirit). 

The oil I use is Osmo Top-Oil. It is oil-and-wax mixture mainly for wooden kitchen work tops. I have no experience with oils, and I choose it, because (according to the manufacturer) it is resistant to common substances, safe and has good opinions.

marian


----------



## oneleggimp (Mar 30, 2015)

I've been using Denatured Alcohol which also evaporates pretty quickly.  After a few minutes I apply the first coat of Boiled Linseed Oil.


----------

