# Perfect fit questions from first attempt



## pauljas (Feb 18, 2014)

A while back, I decided the Perfect Fit would be the next kit I attempted.  Over the weekend, I made my first attempt and while not perfect, it was not bad and I see it as a learning experience.  I do have two questions:
1) The center band is a 3 part affair.  What am I supposed to do with the small ring? 

2) I put it together and when I assembled the bottom part, the mechanism worked fine but when I put the top and bottom together, the pen does not extend.  Any idea where I went wrong?  When I try and unscrew the pen, the twist holder separates


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## plano_harry (Feb 18, 2014)

That is a tough pen to make correctly.  The decorative ring goes in the middle with the narrow ring on top of it.

Did you cut the tenon correctly on the cap?  If it is too long, the inner cap tube won't reach the twist mechanism.  The upper blank will only be 1.8" long + the centerband.  Probably supposed to be 1.78, but I just measured one of finished pens.

Harry


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## pauljas (Feb 18, 2014)

plano_harry said:


> That is a tough pen to make correctly.  The decorative ring goes in the middle with the narrow ring on top of it.
> 
> Did you cut the tenon correctly on the cap?  If it is too long, the inner cap tube won't reach the twist mechanism.  The upper blank will only be 1.8" long + the centerband.  Probably supposed to be 1.78, but I just measured one of finished pens.
> 
> Harry


 
1.78 was the instruction and I used my caliper to measure, I think I got that right but given the pen is not working, not sure ...


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## pauljas (Feb 18, 2014)

actually, 1 7/8 which I calculated to be 1.875 and dialed that in when I cut the space for the center band


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## Lenny (Feb 18, 2014)

Your trouble could be in the length of the lower tube.
This particular kit isn't forgiving when it comes to tube/blank lengths.

I prefer to make the upper blank very close to finished length. When gluing the tube in I leave part sticking out. That way i don't have to cut the tenon, just clean up the end slightly. Also, dont sand this part of the tube,where the centerband goes on, Its a real loose fit if you do.


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## plano_harry (Feb 18, 2014)

If you don't have a bit of a push to get the cap onto the transmission when you put it on, you aren't making contact with the twist tube.


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## jcm71 (Feb 18, 2014)

As said above, the Perfect Fit is VERY exacting. If your lower barrel is off in length the pen will not work as you described in your post.  Be very, very careful and precise when turning the lower barrel.  I was off by about 1/16 inch on my 2nd PF.  My solution was to sand an equal amount off the end of the refill and give it to my wife.  She loves it, however I know what I have to do when the refill runs out.

I have never made the upper barrel as Lenny describes.  I'll have to try it sometime.   If following the directions, be precise and cut the tenon as per the directions. When down to the brass, turn off the lathe, rotate by hand, and remove any excess with your parting tool.  Well over 20 yrs ago I bought some abrasive tapes from Mitchell's abrasives (no idea if they are still in business)  I use that to remove excess glue from the tube.  Lenny's  warning on cleaning up the brass too much is spot on.  I did that on my third PF. My solution was to put a drop or two of thin CA on a Q tip, swap the brass and then press the center band ( work fast).  BTW if not doing so already, the center band is best pressed vertically instead of horizontally.


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## pauljas (Feb 18, 2014)

Lenny said:


> Your trouble could be in the length of the lower tube.
> This particular kit isn't forgiving when it comes to tube/blank lengths.
> 
> I prefer to make the upper blank very close to finished length. When gluing the tube in I leave part sticking out. That way i don't have to cut the tenon, just clean up the end slightly. Also, dont sand this part of the tube,where the centerband goes on, Its a real loose fit if you do.


 
Isn't it tough to then turn the pen without damaging the exposed tube?

I did sand that part of the tube!  I will avoid that going forward


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## pauljas (Feb 18, 2014)

I cant thank you enough for all of your advice!  I really want to successfully tackle this pen.  To be blunt, I am probably lucky this one is not working otherwise I would get over confident and my next three would be disastrous!


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## pauljas (Feb 18, 2014)

Lenny said:


> Your trouble could be in the length of the lower tube.
> This particular kit isn't forgiving when it comes to tube/blank lengths.


 
Lenny,
I squared the ends by sanding until I saw the brass and the blank were even (just to the point where the brass started to shine.) Did I do something wrong in this step?


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## PenMan1 (Feb 18, 2014)

I've made hundreds, if not thousands of Perfect Fit. It is one of my very favorites. It sells well ,uses a Monteverdi or Parker Ballpoint, and can use a 7mm pencil insert without modification.
THE ONLY THING HARD ABOUT PERFECT FIT IS THAT BEREA DOESN'T KNOW HOW TO MAKE THEM. I'm surprised that anyone can make a perfect fit using the instructions and tooling recommended in the instructions.

STEP ONE: THROW AWAY THE INSTRUCTIONS, they are useless.
Measure and square a top blank EXACTLY 1 7/8 inches long. FORGET ALL THE "tenon cutting" BS! It'll just screw up the centerband fit. I like to use my miter saw to make an exactly square top 1 7/8 inch blank.

STEP TWO: DISREGARD the recommended drilling bits. OVER-SIZED holes are your worst enemy on the Perfect. Take a caliper reading of the outside diameter of the top tube. Select a drill bit exactly that size. Even with the most precise lathe drilling set-up, there is probably enough "slop" to allow for a perfect tube fit. IF not, use a rat-tail file to obtain perfection. This only takes SECONDS and OVER-SIZED holes will make PF fail. Make the exact measurement for the bottom tube, too. Size is EVEN MORE critical on the bottom blank.

Next,  Prepare you tube (if you MUST sand the tube, go ahead. Say a little prayer if you like, too- neither will help if you've "overdrilled" the hole) Glue the tube EXACTLY FLUSH with the clip end of the blank. This will leave the EXACT AMOUNT of a perfectly round, exact diametered tube EXPOSED to press a centerband over. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO REASON to turn a tenon down to a brass tube! this is a recipe for disaster, and just creates more work.

STEP THREE: If you MUST use bushings and a mandrel, go ahead. JUST BE SURE to insert the "filler" bushing over exposed tube at the centerband bushing. NOT inserting this "filler" bushing is essential for those of you who over tighten the tail stock, as you could crip the exposed tube. 

I find the Berea "B" adjustable mandrel perfectly USELESS for making a perfect. If you must use a mandrel, for about 1/4 the cost of the mandrel, you can buy a piece of  drill rod (Size D, I think, but look it up), tap it to a size you like so the bottom barrel bushing does not have to fit half over the mandrel and half over the threads, but instead your "custom" threads transition perfectly to the mandrel, then mount the drill rod into a Beall collet chuck. 

Personally, I think TBC is the way to go on the bottom half of the perfect fit.

STEP FOUR: Throw you pen mill away! On the bottom barrel, length is critical. A sanding jib shouldn't shorten your blank OR ream out the hole so that the nib is a loose fit.

STEP FIVE: assemble the center band in the proper order (unless you make your own custom band). That order is: large decorative ring over the center band coupler and small ring on top of the decorative ring. THEN, drop one drop of Loctite thread sealant over the exposed tube where the center band presses. The Loctite acts as a lubricant while pressing, and works like a "removeable" glue when it dries.

STEP SIX: Charge at least $65 for this pen as it will be much better made and more exact than any instruction kit pen.


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## Lenny (Feb 19, 2014)

pauljas said:


> Lenny said:
> 
> 
> > Your trouble could be in the length of the lower tube.
> ...



No, I dont think you did.
I cant say for certain, but i suspect that the lower tube actually needs to be slightly shorter than the actual beginning tube length. I do as you stated, being very careful not to shorten the tube. I usually take a measurment of the tubes before starting and make sure to maintain that length when trimming the blank.    ... But...

I've been meaning to check this out. I suspect they may make the tube long expecting it will get shortened slightly in the trimming process. But that is just a theory ... I need to measure one that I know works well and record that measurment for future reference.


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## Lenny (Feb 19, 2014)

Listen to Andy ^^^

I sought out his advice when I made my first Perfect Fit.

I still wonder what the exact finished lower blank length should be and how it compares to the actual beginning tube length?


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## plano_harry (Feb 19, 2014)

BURLMAN said:


> As said above, the Perfect Fit is VERY exacting.



ROFLMAO!! :biggrin:  Now I know how they named that kit - you have to have a Perfect Fit or it won't work!!

Harry


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## plano_harry (Feb 19, 2014)

I am going to make a pdf out of Andy's instructions.  Probably belongs in the library!  I do like the kit.  Thanks Andy!

Harry


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## pauljas (Feb 20, 2014)

Between plano harry, Lenny, Penman and Burlman, I have a bunch of good advice. I can't thank you enough.  Starting with the drill bits: I will be headed to the one store in my area (Wichita) where I can find the right drill bits on Saturday.  I will let you know how it comes out.  If I can figure out how to make the picture link button work, I'll even show you!


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## dudstuen (Feb 20, 2014)

Where can I see a photo of this Perfect Fit Pen, I am not familiar with it. Thanks


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## Mack C. (Feb 20, 2014)

Here's a few of many I have turned without a single problem!
This above bunch are all Chrome plated, but I like the Ti. G & Blk. Ti's better (below)!


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## pauljas (Feb 25, 2014)

My second PF is much improved over my first.  I appreciate everyone's advice and encouragement!  I did use my caliper to measure the tubes and did buy new drill bits.  I also left the brass tenon tube exposed.  I am going to try a third shortly so I can keep perfecting.  This second attempt leaves me with 2 questions:
1) the twist mechanism on the final pen works but is VERY tight.  Any ideas where I went wrong here?
2) when the refill is empty, how/where do you take it apart to insert a new one?


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## thewishman (Feb 25, 2014)

Pull the top off and unscrew the black transmission.


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## mark james (Feb 25, 2014)

DON'T GIVE UP...

Harry, Lenny and Burlman have it right...

Just be patient.


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## mark james (Feb 25, 2014)

Mack C:

Those are really nice pics!  I like the center bands.


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## pauljas (Feb 25, 2014)

thewishman said:


> Pull the top off and unscrew the black transmission.


 
That is embarrassingly simple!!!


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## pauljas (Jun 22, 2014)

I have made a few more of these now and have it down to where I am much happier with the results.  The most recent one, in Thuya burl, the transmission turns sooo smoothly.  Now I just have to watch my details as I seem to tend to turn the part by the nib too thick, the part that is just above the center band is too thin and the part near the top is just a touch too  thick.  If I could figure out how to post pics, I would show you.  I have started a second pen and can learn from my mistakes.


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## rblakemore (Jul 15, 2014)

I would like to re-open this thread with a word of caution.  I like the Perfect Fit pen a lot, as a twist it may be the best size.  There are other pens with tenons for centerbands like the PF, yesterday, I cut the tenon 1/8" short (1 3/4" and not 1 7/8") and it does not fit correctly.  I will have to other add a short center piece to stretch or cut a new upper barrel.


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## Jim Burr (Jul 16, 2014)

I noticed that the instructions don't clearly point out how to assemble the pen. Maybe a few choice words to the vendor(s) may solve the problem.


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## bjbear76 (Aug 4, 2014)

*Pencil Operation*

For those who have made the pencil version of the PF, how do you operate the pencil mechanism?  Do you just twist the upper barrel?  I've found the lead does not extend this way, I have to pull the upper barrel off and operate the transmission manually.  Surely that can't be correct, but I don't see another way.  My measurements are correct and the tenon was cut "perfectly."
Thanks for your input
Bill


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## Jim Burr (Aug 4, 2014)

Oh my gosh are these a pain!! 1-7/8 from the top is the tenon...two piece outside, three piece total band assembly...no instruction worth 29 cents. Nice Kit, sheets suck


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## bjbear76 (Aug 4, 2014)

Yeah, the hardware is nice.  The pen works great, even with the plastic transmission.  Would would a nice pen/pencil set.


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## hilltopper46 (Aug 4, 2014)

bjbear76 said:


> For those who have made the pencil version of the PF, how do you operate the pencil mechanism?  Do you just twist the upper barrel?  I've found the lead does not extend this way, I have to pull the upper barrel off and operate the transmission manually.  Surely that can't be correct, but I don't see another way.  My measurements are correct and the tenon was cut "perfectly."
> Thanks for your input
> Bill



Every time you twist the upper barrel to the limit of the extend position, the lead should extend slightly. Return the upper barrel to the "retracted position" to hold the lead extended.  It may take a number of twists to get the lead extended enough to use, especially the first time.

If you have too much lead sticking out, turn the upper barrel to the extend position, leave it there and use your finger or the table top to push the lead back into the cartridge.


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