# Nib Question



## cmccarter (Apr 30, 2012)

I've  made a few FP and now want to get quality nibs for them BUT i don't know where or what size nib to get. I have the following:

El Grande Elite 2 from Berea --
Prem Classic V2 from Woodturningz --
Graduate Magnetic FP from PSI --
Baron 2 from timberbits ==

Can anyone suggest a site to get nibs and additionally identify what size nib each pen takes?

Thanks in Advance

chester


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## OKLAHOMAN (Apr 30, 2012)

Answer in blue:





cmccarter said:


> I've made a few FP and now want to get quality nibs for them BUT i don't know where or what size nib to get. I have the following:
> 
> El Grande Elite 2 from Berea --  *6MM*
> Prem Classic V2 from Woodturningz --  *5MM*
> ...


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## Andrew_K99 (Apr 30, 2012)

How would one know what size the nib is if they didn't have the excellent resources found on the IAP. Is the size measurable? Does the size indicate the diameter of the feed housing?

Thanks


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## chrisk (Apr 30, 2012)

Andrew_K99 said:


> How would one know what size the nib is if they didn't have the excellent resources found on the IAP. Is the size measurable? Does the size indicate the diameter of the feed housing?
> 
> Thanks



As far as I know it's the distance (measurable) between the wings of the nib (see Lou Metcalf's pic below).


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## ed4copies (Apr 30, 2012)

Just because it will physically fit, does NOT necessarily mean it will flow properly with the "feed" that comes in the kit nib.  And the feed that is manufactured to fit the nib will, most probably NOT fit into the kit housing.

So, what you purchase is an experiment.  It may work, it may not.

The more popular kits have been experimented with already, so we can advise you with some certainty of success.  The "off brand" newer kits will be completely trial and error.

FWIW,

Ed


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## cmccarter (Apr 30, 2012)

*Thanks*

Tnx to all for the answers. will get them on order asap.


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## Pens By Scott (May 1, 2012)

This has been a timely thread for me.  I was just about to post the same type of question Chester did.

I know we have the Tube and Barrel reference pages, just wondering if we've ever created a nib guide?


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## Jgrden (May 19, 2012)

When a client asks for; fine, medium or heavy tip, how do I order a nib to fit their demands??  Also, I tried to take off a nib on one of my standard fountain pens, how do you get them off to change them?? 

When demonstrating your fountain pens and how they write; do you just dip the end in ink and let them write for as long as the ink lasts?  I cannot see loading a pen or breaking into ta cartridge to show off a pen and how they write. 
All your advice is greatly appreciated. 
John


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## Ulises Victoria (May 21, 2012)

Jgrden said:


> When demonstrating your fountain pens and how they write; do you just dip the end in ink and let them write for as long as the ink lasts?  I cannot see loading a pen or breaking into ta cartridge to show off a pen and how they write.
> All your advice is greatly appreciated.
> John



This is a good question. I'd like to know the answer too. Someone please?


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## Robert111 (May 21, 2012)

Ulises Victoria said:


> Jgrden said:
> 
> 
> > When demonstrating your fountain pens and how they write; do you just dip the end in ink and let them write for as long as the ink lasts?  I cannot see loading a pen or breaking into ta cartridge to show off a pen and how they write.
> ...



You'd be surprised how long you can write with a single dip of the point, I usually get a couple paragraphs. 

Before I sell a FP, I dip and test the smoothness of the nib. I have the smoothing materials from Richard Binder (a kit that sells for about $6, if I recall correctly), and use this if the nib seems a little scratchy. A 20X or 30X loupe is necessary for seeing your progress. I might add here, everyone  making pens of any type should have a loupe or better still a magnifying headset--cheap on Amazon or eBay.

Dipping allows me to test and smooth without filling the res., and this makes cleaning up after much easier. You still need to pull out the feed and rinse, but that's easier than having to repeatedly rinse the res.


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## Robert111 (May 21, 2012)

By the way, if you are going to sell an FP, carry and use one once in a while. Get the feel of a good FP, especially one with a nib you've polished yourself--I think you'll like it.


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## OKLAHOMAN (May 21, 2012)

I'm a believer that the customer wants to and needs to feel the pen that he/she is interested in and try the different tips that they would prefer. I carry these in the 3 5mm sizes that I stock in 5MM and 6MM, when a customer is interested in a certain pen I ask them if they prefer a fine,xfine or medium nib and then just install one if these that is ready to write (now all I have to do is clean these at the end of the show when I get home) The customer gets to try out THEIR pen instead of a sample pen and gets to choose their preferred tip.
To change the nib only here is a video that I did to show how :
CLASSIC NIB - videos


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## Dustygoose (May 21, 2012)

I never thought of that Roy.  Thanks for a great idea


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## PenMan1 (May 21, 2012)

If you are worried about the nib fitting the existing "kit" feed, Miester Nibs makes both a #5 and a #6 nib and feed set that will screw directly into the nib housing of both the Dayacom and Berea. Most replacement nibs fit the feeds without issue. The only time I've had this be an issue is with a PSI set. BUT the Miester nib and feed still worked.

The feed housing that comes with these Miester nibs has a shoulder than must be turned off in order to use that feed housing, but I've not had an issue with any #5 or # 6 kit pen using the Miester nib and feed, along with the "kit" feed housing.


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## Brian Chislett (May 21, 2012)

What exactly are "smoothing materials".? I have a scratchy nib which I would like to replace to improve smoothness.


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## Andrew_K99 (May 21, 2012)

Brian Chislett said:


> What exactly are "smoothing materials".? I have a scratchy nib which I would like to replace to improve smoothness.



This library article should explain things http://content.penturners.org/library/techniques/BTN2-2008.pdf

Here are the kits mentioned earlier that Richard Binder sells RichardsPens.com &bull; Fountain Pens by Richard Binder

AK


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## Ulises Victoria (May 26, 2012)

Robert111 said:


> Ulises Victoria said:
> 
> 
> > Jgrden said:
> ...


Do you have a link? Thank you. 
Edit: Never mind. Found it. For whoever wants it: http://www.richardspens.com/


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## Andrew_K99 (May 26, 2012)

Ulises Victoria;1402615) said:
			
		

> Do you have a link? Thank you.


See post above yours.

AK


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## Dan_F (May 27, 2012)

Before you smooth, make sure that the tines are perfectly aligned. Most of the time, scratchy nibs are due to misalignment. Smoothing is just to remove that last little bit of drag. 

Dan


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## Andrew_K99 (May 28, 2012)

*Kitless homework*



chrisk said:


> Andrew_K99 said:
> 
> 
> > How would one know what size the nib is if they didn't have the excellent resources found on the IAP. Is the size measurable? Does the size indicate the diameter of the feed housing?
> ...


I'm still in the process of reaching kitless and came across the following information on Bock's website [here]. I thought I'd share to correct the above information.

The nib size (IE 5mm or 6mm) is based on the diameter of the ink feeder (not the housing).

AK


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## chrisk (May 29, 2012)

Andrew_K99 said:


> chrisk said:
> 
> 
> > Andrew_K99 said:
> ...



Thanks for the feedback. You' re right. I can't remember where I've read this information (about the wings distance) but as you rightly stated, it's not correct. I checked with a digital caliper on a Jr Gent II Fountain pen and the only part measuring nearly 5mm is indeed the feeder. As for the wings distance: nearly 7mm... I swear I was not drunk...:biggrin:


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