# (mostly) kitless slim idea



## RAdams (Aug 26, 2009)

After putting it off and putting it off, and seeing some really cool pens lately, I have decided to start by "designing" a kitless. I am sure i am not the first person to do one this way, but this is my thoughts. Please help me if i am way wrong or what have you. 



First. It is all in the mentality with this pen. You have to do the body of the pen like a closed end, but indeed it is not a closed end. 

My idea: 

Drill the body just like a closed end.
reverse the blank and drill the "Nib hole".
glue and true the blank. 
mount, turn and finish
CAREFULLY measure and press a slim transmission.
turn the top half closed end, or with finial and clip. 
Only for the center band, instead of metal, turn a tenon exactly down to a drill bit size, drill a different material and turn the CB right in the top half.

feasable?


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## ldb2000 (Aug 26, 2009)

You mean kinda like this ?


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## mbroberg (Aug 26, 2009)

I'm certainly not an expert, but here is my .02.

I have never tried to turn a blank down to a nib.  I have read that doing so makes the blank so thin that it will crack.  Insert the nib from the slimline kit into the lower tube first then insert it into the drilled blank.  You may have to grind the nib first to insert it (like I said, I've never done it, just read about it).  This reinforces the blank so it will not crack while it is being turned.

You don't have to turn a tenon to make the center band.  Cut the upper blank slightly longer than the tube.  Glue the center band material to the upper blank before you turn it.  Turn the upper blank to a slightly wider diameter than the lower blank and you will achieve the effect that you want.


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## RAdams (Aug 27, 2009)

EXACTLY Butch! That is what i am going to "attempt" in PR. Your version is AMAZING!

Mike: Thanks for the heads up on the nib and CB! I am guessing that you meant to say to cut the top blank a bit short of the tube? and replace that missing material with the CB material yes? then true that end up and go?


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## ldb2000 (Aug 27, 2009)

The PR will work just fine and the nib end will be plenty strong without the kit nib installed in the blank , on wood this is a weak spot but there are other work arounds for this problem . On wood you can soak the nib end in thin CA , I have done a number of all wood body pens this way without any problems of the tip cracking .
For the center band I would make sure that the CB segment is supported with the upper brass tube , the tenon idea works well too .
Another material that works well for this kind of pen is Corian .
I made a checkbook pen for the LOML out of Stainless for the upper body and crushed velvet for the lower body . If I can steal it long enough to get a picture I will post it .


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## mbroberg (Aug 27, 2009)

What I mean to say is glue your centerband material to your blank then cut it slightly longer than the tube.  The kit centerband does not slide onto the upper tube and neither should the material that you are going to use to replace it.  Your blank material should not be cut shorter than your tube but your centerband material, which is glued to the blank material, should extend beyond your tube at least as long as the height of the kit's centerband.



RAdams said:


> EXACTLY Butch! That is what i am going to "attempt" in PR. Your version is AMAZING!
> 
> Mike: Thanks for the heads up on the nib and CB! I am guessing that you meant to say to cut the top blank a bit short of the tube? and replace that missing material with the CB material yes? then true that end up and go?


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## mbroberg (Aug 27, 2009)

Listen to Butch.  He is far more experienced and knowledgeable than I am.



ldb2000 said:


> The PR will work just fine and the nib end will be plenty strong without the kit nib installed in the blank , on wood this is a weak spot but there are other work arounds for this problem . On wood you can soak the nib end in thin CA , I have done a number of all wood body pens this way without any problems of the tip cracking .
> For the center band I would make sure that the CB segment is supported with the upper brass tube , the tenon idea works well too .
> Another material that works well for this kind of pen is Corian .


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## ldb2000 (Aug 27, 2009)

Ron , check out this thread http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36211 . This is the Kitless Challenge I ran last year . You should be able to get some ideas here .


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## rjwolfe3 (Aug 27, 2009)

Sounds like a lot of fun. Take lots of pics!


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## arioux (Aug 27, 2009)

Hi,

Russ Fairfield explained how he did it back in 2006.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24735


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## ldb2000 (Sep 5, 2009)

Here's the photo of the checkbook pen . I had to pry it from her hands . It is very slender to fit the loop and no clip , her checkbook has a zipper so it can't fall out .
It is made from some crushed velvet and stainless steel . There is a 7mm brass tube in the lower half and a 7mm transmission but no tube in the top


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## RAdams (Sep 8, 2009)

when you say crushed velvet, do you mean you cast the velvet? or is that a blank that you buy? If you cast it, how? if you don't mind me asking...


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## RussFairfield (Sep 8, 2009)

Crushed Velvet is a plastic material that LOOKS like cruched velvet. It was the 1st plastic available for making pens about 20 years ago. It has generally been replaced by the fancier plastics. Look in the pen blanks in the various catalogs. Some of them may still have it.


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