# Pens from shell casings



## knottyharry (Jan 30, 2005)

Somewhere recently, I read an article about making pens using brass shell casings. It seems like the article mentioned which cal. casings worked best etc.
But can I find it....NO.
I am intrigued by this and would like to try it. If anyone has any info they would care to share, I sure would like to know more.
Thanks
Harry


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

I've been using 30.06 and 300 magnums for slim lines.
I have also heard that 308's will work.
I don't know anything about guns but I have made a couple.(pens)
Some are posted in Show off your pens.
WHere did you see the article?
I'm winging it.


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## bajacrazy (Jan 30, 2005)

I was going to suggest that you look up Eaglesc on this subject. I  do remember seeing a tread that got into caliber sizes etc. I think it was in the showing off pens and it started from one of Eagleâ€™s submissions.


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

If you want to use the whole casing with a slim line then I suppose only certain calibers will work.
I have been experimenting with different casings adn differnt kits,cutting them where they will fit kit components.
Many of them will "work" but they have to look right me before I decide to assmebleit.
The 30.06 is easy to do with a slim line.
"Easy" is an objective term.


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## jwoodwright (Jan 30, 2005)

Eaglesc, you are tops with ammo pens...[]


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

You give me too much credit (which I will humbly and greedily snatch up)
I actually have only done 6.
THere is a lot of R&D because I don't have a machine lathe.
I have something special I'm working on that I haven't seen done before.
There was a post to a site that the "pencrafter" was powder coating them.Very impressive work
Impressive work.


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## PenWorks (Jan 30, 2005)

Eagle, any tips on drilling the bullets [?] 

I have allready broken two small bits []

Anthony

PS, credit deserved for a job well done []


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />Eagle, any tips on drilling the bullets [?]
> If you mean the projectile part I don't use that,the casings I use are match for the slimline nib..
> If you mean the other end, I went to gunshop and they shoed me how to knock out the firing pin.
> ...


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## its_virgil (Jan 30, 2005)

Are you talking about drilling the brass or the lead. Drilling the lead is more difficult that it sounds. Lead is soft and wraps around the drill bit. Drill slowly and lubricate. The lead is hard to hold...I drill the lead held in a v-block on the large end that will fit inside the brass and not show. I also powder coat the metal parts so they don't tarnish. I am working on an article but turning gets in the way. Here is a picture of the cartridge pens I make. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don






<br />




<br /><br />





> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />Eagle, any tips on drilling the bullets [?]
> 
> I have allready broken two small bits []
> ...


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## PenWorks (Jan 30, 2005)

Thanks, I did mean the projectile. I thought I would give it the more bullet look. If I break another bit, I just might shoot the darn thing.

A little bullet pen termiknowlegy.........
Bullet- the pojectile that comes out the barrel when fired.
Case- The brass or nickle casing that holds the bullet, powder & primer.
Primer- The little thingy you may or may  not knock out. It is what the fire pins hits to ignite the powder. 

It is highly recomended you make your bullet pens, with spent shells.

Anthony


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## PenWorks (Jan 30, 2005)

Thanks, Don, That was the big problem, the lead from the bullet was wrapping and grabbing the bit. Will try with lubricant and slower speed.

Anthony


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## timdaleiden (Jan 30, 2005)

> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />
> It is highly recomended you make your bullet pens, with spent shells.
> Anthony



  I just got done with my first one and posted it in my album. I went to the local sports supply store and bought a big bag full of 308 casings and lead bullets. 

  Like Don said, for drilling use some oil, it makes a big difference. I held the bullet and the casing in a screw clamp with a hole drilled in it. The hole was just a bit smaller than what it was holding so I didn't leave big dents.


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## its_virgil (Jan 30, 2005)

Anthony,
Drill about 1/8 inch and clean out. Trying to go deeper will cause the lead to wrap around the bit, as you found out. I drill one hole the just a wee bit larger than the writing tip from the from then pointed end of the lead...(I use hollow points(although they are not hollow, but have a dentation in the end)...then from the ohter blunt end I chase the hole with a bit a wee bit larger than the main refill diameter to about 1/8 inbch out the other end to make the hole the same profile as the refill. Hope this makes sense. I use 25-06 rifle brass and lead but others will work. Humnters love the rifle and antler pens.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />Thanks, Don, That was the big problem, the lead from the bullet was wrapping and grabbing the bit. Will try with lubricant and slower speed.
> 
> Anthony


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## knottyharry (Jan 30, 2005)

Eagle,
I will gladly give you credit for the great work I see. You are good.
And as a novice, I'm trying to learn what I can, from all of you.
I assumed that when you knock out the primer cap then you drill the casing out to insert the cap and clip. At least in the top barrel.
Do you put a brass tube in the lower barrel. And if so, do you use polyurethane glue to expand in the casing.
I'm guessing...I may be way off.
Also do you only use center fire cartridges...or do you use rim fire also?
Sorry i'm full of questions.
Thanks for any advice you are willing to share.
Harry


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## knottyharry (Jan 30, 2005)

Wow this is turning into a really good thread.
Thanks for all the good feedback.
Harry


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## redbulldog (Jan 30, 2005)

I have drilled lead weights to install in drone aircraft. the secret I found was to drill at a slow speed with the twist drill well lubricated with bees wax. I would just run the twist drill in the block of bees wax to fully coat the twist drill. I have also had them bind in the lead when I got in to big a hurry and would not clean the twist drill. i was drilling in laed that was 2to 2 1/2 inches thick.


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

KNotty=
\I don't know the difference between rim fire center fire but I do know what a rim shot is.
Ba DA bump!
Yes I put a tube in the center barrel but is is encased in a wooden blank.
Since I turn a tenon on the wood inside the lower barrel for the "neck" of the shell, the nib holds the casing from falling off the blank.
I do use a little bit of CA for insurance though.
I didn't want to mess with drilling out the projectile,figure it would soil shirt pockets.
If you want the sliver bullet look I'd use a chrome kit.
If I had a machinist lathe I would fill teh casing with resin and drill dead center. That's where taking out the primer helps.
It is the pilot hole.


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## spyderxxx (Jan 30, 2005)

Eagle

Try this link for info on Rifle cartridges. www.reloadbench.com You can buy new unprimed cartridges at a good sporting goods store. If you look at the .243 you might be able to fit the slimline nib in without the wood. The rest of the cartridge is the same size as the 30-06..

Ed


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## Gregory Huey (Jan 30, 2005)

I still don't know how you do it but ya do it good!


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

BUy? what Buy?
If I make pens out my old blue jeans you htink I"m gong to BUY spent casings when people GIVE them to me?


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2005)

WHich part of the .243 equates with the ,-6 in the 30.06?


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## PenWorks (Jan 30, 2005)

Eagle the -06 was the deignation of the year the caliber was made or adopted for military use, not sure which one. The .243 is the diamiter of the bullet, so it is going to be smaller than the .30 caliber at the neck. a .243 is real close to 6 mm


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## knottyharry (Jan 31, 2005)

I have one more question for all of you.
What do you use to cut the brass casing without tearing it up, and how do you square the end of it. 
I don't have a band saw, and I know lots of you use them for cutting your blanks, etc. 
I do have a belt/disc sander so I could use it for squaring the end of the casing.
Oh a light came on....would a tubing cutter work for that. It would make a nice clean cut I would think.
Thanks 
Harry


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## spyderxxx (Jan 31, 2005)

Eagle

Another choice would be the 270 with an inside neck diameter of .278. This should allow you to press the 7 mm tube into the casing..

A lot of cartridges were adapted from the 30-06 by resizing the neck  270 243 22-250 

Ed


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## Guest (Jan 31, 2005)

> _Originally posted by spyderxxx_
> <br />Eagle
> 
> Another choice would be the 270 with an inside neck diameter of .278. This should allow you to press the 7 mm tube into the casing..
> ...



Pressing the tube directly into the casing would be convenient but what about the nib?
The outer diameter of the nib is larger than the tube so it wouldn't be a good fit.
Unless I am missing someting.
I'm not crazy about using the projectile as the nib itself,though its a novel idea it has already been done, bullet pens sell for under $20.00(edit price) on the net and they use the slug as the nib.
My concern is the lead slug would "write" on shirts as they are being put into pockets.
Isn't the slug a little soft?


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## timdaleiden (Jan 31, 2005)

> My concern is the lead slug would "write" on shirts as they are being put into pockets.
> Isn't the slug a little soft?



  Nope, not on the one that I used. Although the inner part of the slug may be grey lead. The outer casing appears to be a much harder composite material. This casing is rather thick, not just a coating.


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## Guest (Jan 31, 2005)

Thanks for the info Tim but for the other reasons I mentioned I think I'll stick to utilizing the nib for now.


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## PenWorks (Jan 31, 2005)

Eagle, 7 TCU = Thompson Center,(gun manf) U=unlimited (the class in which it was design for)

Anthony


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 31, 2005)

&lt;&lt;Also do you only use center fire cartridges...or do you use rim fire also?&gt;&gt;
  Safety cannot be overstressed. Several here have stated a lack of knowledge with regards to firearms and ammunition. Live ammunition, handled properly is pretty benign stuff. But start messing with it with things like drill presses and you are asking for big hurt.
   Use only spent (fired) ammunition or new cases that have never had primers put in them. Usually (there are exceptions) rimfire is not large enough to make pens. And, unless fired the primer is in the rim and can be very dangerous if worked with tools. Stick with fired ammo like 30-06 or newly purchased (without primers).


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## Guest (Jan 31, 2005)

Thanks Rifleman.
WHen I acquired these casings I made sure to ask if any portion of them was "live"
The primer had the little "dent in it and there was no "Slug" on the buisness end.
It does pay to check though.
I do have a question.
If I had a casing that had the primer still in it"live" and went to "punch" it out from the other end,what exactly would happen?


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## rlmill (Jan 31, 2005)

It might go BANG!, the best way to kill the primer is to soak it in oil for a few days. (Immerse the whole cartridge) A friend of mine who also reloads gets yelled at when he's dropped a few and the wife vacuums them up, most of the time they don't do anything but rattle through the vacuum, occasionally they do go off...




> _Originally posted by Eaglesc_
> <br />Thanks Rifleman.
> WHen I acquired these casings I made sure to ask if any portion of them was "live"
> The primer had the little "dent in it and there was no "Slug" on the buisness end.
> ...


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 31, 2005)

&lt;&lt;If I had a casing that had the primer still in it"live" and went to "punch" it out from the other end,what exactly would happen?&gt;&gt;
 Very possible it would go "bang" and injure you. However, it can be neutralized with water or oil. Squirt some WD-40 in there and let it set for a few minutes. Still observe reasonable precautions. Like don't look into the shell while you are pounding on the primer to 'see' what is happening. Wear safety glasses. It's tiny but a rifle primer can make quite a bang.








> _Originally posted by Eaglesc_
> <br />Thanks Rifleman.
> WHen I acquired these casings I made sure to ask if any portion of them was "live"
> The primer had the little "dent in it and there was no "Slug" on the buisness end.
> ...


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## Mac In Oak Ridge (Jan 31, 2005)

I can't wait till some enthusiastic teen age hunter takes his .30-06 pen to school and shows it off.  Then gets the boot for carrying ammuntion on a school campus.

I have actually took rifles to school for show and tell, a way long time ago.


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## jkirkb94 (Jan 31, 2005)

Too bad that the world has come to that, Mac!  I really wanted to give my son a knife that he could carry when he turned a teenager but was unable.  Didn't want to run the risk of him accidently taking it to school.[]  I've carried a knife since I was in junior high.  Kirk[8D]


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## Rifleman1776 (Feb 1, 2005)

My 'handle' Rifleman1776 comes from my being a historical reenactor. The Revolutionary Rifleman is the personna I emulate. For many years I gave talks and demonstrations in schools, using my flintlock rifle, a cannon, and other items. Sadly, the anti-gun thing forced me to stop and, in the process, denied youngsters an opportunity to learn living history. I once gave a key ring to my daughter that had a rifle cartridge on it, not live, of course. She was not allowed to bring that to school. I'm preaching, off-topic. Sorry. []






> _Originally posted by Mac In Oak Ridge_
> <br />I can't wait till some enthusiastic teen age hunter takes his .30-06 pen to school and shows it off.  Then gets the boot for carrying ammuntion on a school campus.
> 
> I have actually took rifles to school for show and tell, a way long time ago.


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## Rifleman1776 (Feb 3, 2005)

Yes, that is correct. The 30-06 is a 30 caliber adopted by the Army in 1906. The .243 is a necked down caliber from the .308. The .243 is 6 mm, projectiles for .243 and 6mm are the same.





> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />Eagle the -06 was the deignation of the year the caliber was made or adopted for military use, not sure which one. The .243 is the diamiter of the bullet, so it is going to be smaller than the .30 caliber at the neck. a .243 is real close to 6 mm


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## Rifleman1776 (Feb 3, 2005)

I had and off-list request for information as to what rifle cartridge (caliber) would have an inside neck diameter closest to .365 for use in pen making. Not sure why the requestor wanted that size, he has something clever in mind, I am sure. Anyway, I found that the .338 Winchester Magnum has an inside neck size of .369 (don't try to make sense out of that, caliber names and designations do not necessarily describe exact dimensions of the round in question, they are just names). Brass for the 338 Win Mag can be purchased as can bullets. I believe new brass would be about $1.00 per round and the bullets about the same. It is a nice long round and might just make an interesting pen.


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## ryannmphs (Feb 3, 2005)

A question regarding using bullets as the nib.  Eagle commented that he didn't use them due to possibility of lead rubbing off on clothing or the user.  What about using a jacketed bullet?  these usually have a copper or similar coating that is very thin, but it does protect the user from the lead.

The only other problem I can see with using a bullet is the increase in weight, but I guess these pens are already fairly heavy.

Ryan


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## Guest (Feb 3, 2005)

The "lead" myth was dispelled earlier.Copper should't be a problem
(your mileage may vary)


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## Rifleman1776 (Feb 3, 2005)

Most high-power, center-fire (call them deer hunting) rifles use jacketed bullets. All lead can be purchased but are difficult to find. Some jacketed do have a lead point exposed, others use plastic or alloys that look like silver. I would suggest use of a hollow-point like the Sierra MatchKing. Not only is there no lead protruding but the hollow point gives a center reference for drilling. And with a bullet that does have lead exposed where it can be touched you are entering an area of safety. Lead on the fingers can introduce lead into the body if they touch the lips or food.[xx(]







> _Originally posted by ryannmphs_
> <br />A question regarding using bullets as the nib.  Eagle commented that he didn't use them due to possibility of lead rubbing off on clothing or the user.  What about using a jacketed bullet?  these usually have a copper or similar coating that is very thin, but it does protect the user from the lead.
> 
> The only other problem I can see with using a bullet is the increase in weight, but I guess these pens are already fairly heavy.
> ...


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## jkirkb94 (Feb 4, 2005)

Have entertained the idea myself of drilling through a bullet.  I hadn't thought about a hollowpoint.  Good idea Frank!  The lead should be easier to drill through than the jacket.  Has anyone actually drilled a bullet??  Any advice/ideas?  Kirk[8D]


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## PenWorks (Feb 4, 2005)

Kirk, your pretty sharp [] I broke to bits before I asked []

Drill real slow and use a lubricant. I ended up using my varible speed drill, hardly going and had some buck sharpening oil around I used for lube. The lead is real soft and just wraps around the bit. You will have to pull the bit out and scrape or brush of the lead as it wraps around the bit. 

Anthony


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## knottyharry (Feb 4, 2005)

I have been experimenting a little using a 30-06 shell casing. But don't have anything i'm real happy with yet.
The other day I went to the local gun shop and picked up an assortment of shell casings. And depending on what you are using for internal parts will probably vary.
But if you are using slimline parts. The 270 casing I think might just be the ticket. If you use the brass tubes for a guide and for pressing the parts into it fits pretty well.
There is also a 270 WSM casing which is a little bigger around, and is also a little shorter. But I haven't gotten that far into it yet.
As I do I will post some pictures.
Harry


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## JRowan (Feb 4, 2005)

I have been thinking of trying a shell casing pen too.  I have 22-250, 220 Swift, 243, 260, 270 and 30-06 cases laying around.  I am thinking the 270 is probably going to be the test run case.  Put a few of them in the tumbler last night, should be nice and shiny tonight when I take them out.  The 7mm tube will fit easily inside the neck.  With a little work I think I can put a bell on the end of the neck to match the diameter of the nib, if not I will probably just trim the neck off back to where the diameter of the shoulder matches the nib.  

So many things to try, so little time.  LOL  this could get interesting.


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## jwoodwright (Feb 4, 2005)

This is getting interesting.  Probally time to try one also...[8D]


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