# pen dipping finish



## jeff3285 (Dec 23, 2017)

I wasn't aware that there is a pen dipping finish some turners use on there pens,,i was told you could find some info in the library but I cant seem to find any,,but I did see one video on you tube and it seemed like a good finish,,can anyone add anything to this process and the finish they use,,actually looking at the video on you tube it seemed a lot easier than a ca finish and not near the time it takes to get the finish you desire by using ca,,,thank you,,


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## ajollydds (Dec 23, 2017)

Jeff, here’s the one I’ve been using.   

http://www.penturners.org/forum/att...-finish-dipping-method-revised-03-26-2016.pdf


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## leehljp (Dec 23, 2017)

Thanks for bringing this up and for the link. This is a viable method for finishing and for some situations, may be the best. It is more work in the direction of setting up a drying system. One thing the Les did in the PDF was to wick the bottom. Back early on, I think we hung it, let it cure and then turn down/off the excess build up on the bottom after it cured. For many people, we get so caught up in the instant cure of CA that we miss some fine finishing methods. One fellow spends approximately 30 days for the finish on most of his pens. 

BTW, This also works with CA, lacquer, poly and other. 

For the uninitiated  - a method or place for hanging the dipped blanks is needed for them to cure. So, space for this is required. While not a big deal, I'm just letting you know ahead of time.


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## Woodchipper (Dec 23, 2017)

Yes, thanks for the idea and the link.


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## PatrickR (Dec 23, 2017)

Some info here on the method i use. The main difference is that I use a rotisserie for drying and a thicker clear. Normally requiring only a single coat.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/tempest-cocinnia-burl-149779/


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## Rockytime (Dec 23, 2017)

I have just a Simple Simon Poly system. Attached is a photo of a pen I coated with wipe on Poly several years ago. It is one coat. Pen is mounted on a home made rotisserie. An ebay 15 RPM motor with a 1/4" shaft. Poly is applied with a solder brush. Very durable. There is wear around the center band and just above the nib. I have recently stretched a wire in my shop to hang dipped pens. When the shop warms up I will try dipping. I do not do well with CA.


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## Wildman (Dec 25, 2017)

Have used this method sucessfully with both poly and lacquer.  Used an old coat hanger with bend on the bottom to hold nuts before dipping.  Didn’t have problem with chipping of finish at base of the blank.

Coat hanger method allows you have several blanks hanging on your rack for drying. Depends upon species how many times I dipped.


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## jeff3285 (Dec 25, 2017)

didn't the poly or laquar build up at the base of the but after you diped it,,


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## leehljp (Dec 25, 2017)

jeff3285 said:


> didn't the poly or laquar build up at the base of the but after you diped it,,



Yes, for me it did and for others early on. But it wasn't a problem after it dried/cured. After the curing/drying out, simply turn it down to smooth or sand lightly (while turning) to level with the rest. Of course use calipers to make sure it is the diameter of the pen components.

This last part is one of the tricky parts of dipping, - how close is the cured finish with the thickness / size of the components.


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## rd_ab_penman (Dec 25, 2017)

jeff3285 said:


> didn't the poly or laquar build up at the base of the but after you diped it,,



If you you super quick drying MINWAX WBOM Polyurethane and wick the ends there is no buildup.

Les


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## Rockytime (Dec 29, 2017)

I just finished assembling my first dipped pen. I turned the blanks and sanded with 180 Abranet radially with lathe running and horizontally with the lathe stopped. I then did the same with 400 Abranet. I plugged the ends, dipped them and hung them up to dry. The temperature in my shop was about 50 degrees. I don't know how much that affects anything but they dried for two days before assembling. I only dipped once. I should, perhaps, have gone over the first coat with steel wool and given a second coat. Being in a hurry and not wanting to heat the shop I did not. There is a small blemish near the nib. Am not sure what happened there but overall I am satisfied. I will use it as my every day carry pen.


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## ajollydds (Dec 29, 2017)

I had the same issue with the same product. Les switched me to water based oil modified polyurethane since it dried quicker.  That did the trick, I think you could do the same with wipe on poly since it is thinner. 

One modification that I made was using a synthetic wine cork instead of the wood as a plug. It’s a little more pliable so it grabs better.


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## Rockytime (Dec 29, 2017)

ajollydds said:


> I had the same issue with the same product. Les switched me to water based oil modified polyurethane since it dried quicker.  That did the trick, I think you could do the same with wipe on poly since it is thinner.
> 
> One modification that I made was using a synthetic wine cork instead of the wood as a plug. It’s a little more pliable so it grabs better.



I'll give the water based a try. Thanks.


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## ghansen4 (Dec 29, 2017)

*Durability*

How does the durability of poly compare to CA? I was under the impression that you almost have to use CA if you want a long lasting finish that can stand up to repeated handling.


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## Rockytime (Dec 29, 2017)

ghansen4 said:


> How does the durability of poly compare to CA? I was under the impression that you almost have to use CA if you want a long lasting finish that can stand up to repeated handling.



I'll answer in a couple of years. This pen has been daily carry for two years or longer. It has a poly finish.


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## PatrickR (Dec 29, 2017)

Here’s one I did awhile ago. One dip in KBS, but I do fill and level with CA first.


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## jeff3285 (Dec 29, 2017)

thanks for all the responces and pictures,,going to home depot tomorrow to get some poly and give it a try,,,,lol,,I will get back and let everyone know the outcome,,,


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## leehljp (Dec 29, 2017)

Poly, lacquer, others and CA each have different characteristics and drawbacks. Poly in many instances get hard and last long; however there are times when polys take longer to harden, usually cooler weather and higher humidity. The curing does not seem as durable in these cases. CA might be a tad finicky at lower temps (below 60°) with high humidity, but not near that of poly and other finishes. Slow curing CA will still cure to a good hardness over a couple of days, but slow curing poly over a few days does not harden like the CA. Poly needs to cure in a few hours to 24 hours or it will not be as durable, IMO. I am not a scientist or engineer but I these are the characteristics I have noticed from personal experience.

The main disadvantages to "other" than CA finishes for pen making in general is - the time it takes. There is nothing wrong with long finishing times, unless you get used to the quickness of a CA finish. Kinda ruins ya!


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## ajollydds (Jan 7, 2018)

Here is my quick and dirty finishing station in my laundry room. The nice thing about poly is that it is low odor, so I can dip my pens indoors and not have to worry about temperature.  

The blanks are held by synthetic wine cork with screw eyes.


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## bgio13 (Jan 7, 2018)

Just saw this post so I figured I'd add my $.02 as I haven't posted in a while. I started using a dipping method similar to Les Elms method that can be found in the library. I've included a few photos, my bushing setup, the product I use and the finished product. The Cocobolo pen has sanded and leveled using a sanding sealer and then dipped twice, rotating the blanks after the first dip. Any other questions ask away, thanks
P.S. My drying setup is similar to the one in the photo above.

Bill


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## ajollydds (Jan 7, 2018)

bgio13 said:


> Just saw this post so I figured I'd add my $.02 as I haven't posted in a while. I started using a dipping method similar to Les Elms method that can be found in the library. I've included a few photos, my bushing setup, the product I use and the finished product. The Cocobolo pen has sanded and leveled using a sanding sealer and then dipped twice, rotating the blanks after the first dip. Any other questions ask away, thanks
> P.S. My drying setup is similar to the one in the photo above.
> 
> Bill





Looks good. Do you have any issues with the finish building up at the seam between the blank and bushing?  Also how do you remove the finish from the bushing itself?

Thanks.


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## bgio13 (Jan 7, 2018)

Check out Les Elms dipping method in the library for some photos. I sort of do the same thing with the paper towel, I just dab the blank a few times on the towel to wick off some of the poly. This allows the finish to run down off of the bushing a little better so there isn't really any buildup at the seam. I don't really get any of the finish off of the bushing, the nut won't come off, but will unscrew from the bolt so I can use it again. Eventually you'll have to get new bushings, hope this helps,

Bill


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## JPW062 (Jan 7, 2018)

> The temperature in my shop was about 50 degrees.


I would not finish with a poly or urethane at that temperature. 
In my experience and with customers I have spoken with:
Poly and urethane cure pretty reliably and reasonably quickly at 60* or warmer
From 50-60* it will probably set-up, but take significantly longer.  Twice as long or more.  It may stay tacky for a bit.
Under 50* and you are begging for trouble.  It may not set-up at all.  I recently had someone who had finished a table with minwax poly two years ago in a cold garage and it was still tacky.

I try REALLY hard to stay above 60.  I absolutely shut down if I am close to 55.
I was at about 45 the last week and considered trying some shellac, but decided best not to tempt fate.


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