# Mass production question/s



## underdog (Apr 19, 2011)

For the first time, I ordered 25 or so pen kits from Exotic blanks. Previous to this, I've only turned a couple of pen kits, and several Walmart pens (you remember those don't you?).

But now I've decided I need to "knock out" several pens for friends and relatives who've helped me in my hour of need.

But now that I've got this pile of kits, I see just how much work it is, just to get the dang kits out of the bag!

I spent a good while last night just pulling all the tubes out of the kits and sanding them... Tonight I'm gonna round up all those nice curly, knotty, burly pieces of wood I've been scrounging from the cabinet shop and cut them into blanks before drilling and milling. While I've been working on this, I've been mulling over the best way to approach getting these done the quickest way possible.

So for those of you who mass-produce pens, here are the questions...
(Of course for you serious guys, you're probably laughing at me with my measly 25 pen kits.:redface

1) Do you use an assembly line technique, or just make 'em one at a time?
2) Do you pull all the parts out of the kits and sort 'em out first? Or do you just leave the parts in the bag until you assemble the pen?
3) What's the quickest way to get parts out of all those interminable bags? I feel like I'm fumbling, fat-fingered for far too long, when trying to take those things out of the bags...:frown:
4) What are your best quick production tips?
5) Super glue tends to clog my sinuses- What mask do I need to wear to keep from killing myself with the fumes from the finish?

I better go get busy. Those things aren't going to make themselves.


----------



## PenMan1 (Apr 19, 2011)

Jim:
I always immediately open and inspect all kits upon arrival. When you buy them by the hundreds, you are always going to have some sets missing pieces or plating issues, etc. Some distributors require you to contact them within 2 days for warranty issues. So, I just got in the habit of inspecting all on arrival.

Next, I take one set of tubes and cut all blanks to length, making sure to identify each "set" and make "grain matching marks" on each blank half. When you make a bunch at once, you'd be surprised hoe easy to mix up blanks.

Then I drill each blank half. I pay attention to drill each blank half from the center going to ends. Then I line them back up. If you insert the tubes from the direction that you drilled the "spiraling" from drilling helps eliminate "hang ups"

I then scuff all tubes, put plumbers putty in the ends of the tubes then glue up. After the glue dries, the tubes clean easily with a 22 caliber bore brush.

I then square the ends of all blanks and turn 'em one at the time.

This us the fastest way I have found, FOR ME. Other methods may work better for other people.

On comfort pens, I use no center bushing and use the caliper to size the middle. This insures that the two blanks are exactly the same where they meet the centerband.


----------



## OKLAHOMAN (Apr 19, 2011)

Try this....





underdog said:


> For the first time, I ordered 25 or so pen kits from Exotic blanks. Previous to this, I've only turned a couple of pen kits, and several Walmart pens (you remember those don't you?).
> 
> But now I've decided I need to "knock out" several pens for friends and relatives who've helped me in my hour of need.
> 
> ...


----------



## alphageek (Apr 19, 2011)

I will almost NEVER do one pen at a time... I will batch even 2 or 3... Anything to save a little setup time (since I drill on the lathe most the time especially).

I tend to pull out the tubes and set the rest of the kit bag aside as is until done.
Then I pick out blanks... I cut them on my little bandsaw.  I will cut one.. then drill it right next to it on the lathe.   When drill bit is cooling I will alternate between drilling and cutting... then also glue in tubes when drilling.

I let the glue dry (often overnight).. then 'face' them all... then turn them all... let them sit (if wood) for the CA finish to cure...  Then buff them all in a set.

As for the little parts in the bags... I tend to do those inside where I won't drop/lose parts and assemble them inside.


----------



## ed4copies (Apr 19, 2011)

One caveat (beware)!!

Test one at each step, before doing a group.  If you accidentally grab the wrong drill bit, ONE is ruined, not the whole order---This is PARTICULARLY TRUE IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE PRODUCTION BEFORE!!!!!!!!!

Regarding the "little parts"--open the bags one at a time, over a "plastic shoe box".  Then the spring won't "escape", nor will the little rings.


----------



## alphageek (Apr 19, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> One caveat (beware)!!
> 
> Test one at each step, before doing a group.  If you accidentally grab the wrong drill bit, ONE is ruined, not the whole order---This is PARTICULARLY TRUE IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE PRODUCTION BEFORE!!!!!!!!!



That is an AWESOME hint!!  And one far too easy to forget... I made that mistake a bit ago on a different project.


----------



## biednick (Apr 19, 2011)

This Christmas I made 15 pens. I would go out to the shop, pick 5 blanks, grab 5 plastic cups and 5 kits. I opened each kit, checked each part, and put everything in a cup. Then I cut and drilled all 5 blanks and put 2 half blanks in each cup. I tubed and squared each blank, then back into the cup. I turned and finished each set and put them back in the cup. After I turned all 5 I assembled them all. I did all 15 pens in about 6 hours over 3 days this way.


----------



## PenMan1 (Apr 19, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> One caveat (beware)!!
> 
> Test one at each step, before doing a group.  If you accidentally grab the wrong drill bit, ONE is ruined, not the whole order---This is PARTICULARLY TRUE IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE PRODUCTION BEFORE!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Regarding the "little parts"--open the bags one at a time, over a "plastic shoe box".  Then the spring won't "escape", nor will the little rings.



Great idea, Ed! There are so many little springs lost in my black shop flooring that if I fell down, I'd bounce right back up.


----------



## 76winger (Apr 19, 2011)

Great tips. I've not done any big production runs yet, but whenever I do any amount of multiples, it sure is faster to turn all the same model in one run and then do the next model in a separate run.


----------



## el_d (Apr 19, 2011)

I actually rip the little ziplock heads off of the baggies, I dont have the patience to sit there and open the dang things....


----------



## LeeR (Apr 19, 2011)

PenMan1 said:


> [...]
> I then scuff all tubes, put plumbers putty in the ends of the tubes then glue up.


 
Andy,

Great suggestion! I've heard of using base wax (never looked it up to find out where to get it), or other material I do not have. I have lots of plumbers putty, and I can imagine how easy it would be to use, and remove after gluing the tubes into the blanks.

I usually swab the tube with a Q-tip to remove glue, but would rather keep it out of tube from the start.


----------



## Andrew Arndts (Apr 19, 2011)

1) Do you use an assembly line technique, or just make 'em one at a time?
Starting off I gather up the kits, then figure what blank I will use. I will then write what kit goes with what blank. Not only on the blank but in a shop journal.  Then Cut, drill and tube. wait 24 hours.  On to the lathe they go.  I do this whether this is one or 50...

2) Do you pull all the parts out of the kits and sort 'em out first? Or  do you just leave the parts in the bag until you assemble the pen?
After I pull the tubes out of the kit bag. I put them in an old card file box. 

3) What's the quickest way to get parts out of all those interminable  bags? 
like most I either cut them open or rip them.  I lay down an old chunk of terry cloth towel and pour it all out. one at a time.

4) What are your best quick production tips?
Don't rush.  5 min epoxy for single kit, up to 30 min for any amount between 5 - 10 pens. I average 4 tube glue up with 5 min epoxy.  so the 30 is best for that. At least for me.  Slow is fast.  Dry hands


5) Super glue tends to clog my sinuses- What mask do I need to wear to keep from killing myself with the fumes from the finish?
I too use a fan only I have mine mounted above my lathe I turn it on as I am turning as well.  Only time I have a mask or respirator on is when I do Spalted woods. but that is just me.


----------



## leestoresund (Apr 19, 2011)

For the "gift" of pens for him and his office my dentist gave me a box of the pink wax he uses. About 1/16" x 2.5 x 6. It is highly refined bees wax.
Being really frugal I can stick the larger diameter tubes on the wax and after the glue dries I pop out the wax discs and use them on the smaller diameter tubes.
Lee.


----------



## Smitty37 (Apr 19, 2011)

*Must it be*



ed4copies said:


> One caveat (beware)!!
> 
> Test one at each step, before doing a group. If you accidentally grab the wrong drill bit, ONE is ruined, not the whole order---This is PARTICULARLY TRUE IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE PRODUCTION BEFORE!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Regarding the "little parts"--open the bags one at a time, over a "plastic shoe box". Then the spring won't "escape", nor will the little rings.


 
Gee Ed, I don't even wear plastic shoes --- couldn't that be a "leather shoe box"????:biggrin:


----------



## ctubbs (Apr 20, 2011)

My last production run, I made a blank holder out of a 12 by 12 piece of 3/4" ply off the floor, drilled 1/8" holes every 1 1/2" and drove in 6" pieces of welding rod I had lying around.  As I drilled each half blank, it went on the rod along with it's other half.  then they all got tubed with epoxy, then to the lathe for shaping going right back on the rod after the lathe.  Then it was time to finish.  Doing 50 CA finishes is a royal pain, but it did get the job done.  It worked for me, might not be for you.
Charles


----------



## ed4copies (Apr 20, 2011)

Smitty37 said:


> ed4copies said:
> 
> 
> > One caveat (beware)!!
> ...




Sounds like a "Crock" to me!!:biggrin::biggrin:


----------



## dgelnett (Apr 20, 2011)

To catch the little metal parts that drop to the floor, like springs with two really strong magnetic. One under my work bench where I normally stand and the other under my lathe. If the metal part did not drop or bounce its way to the magnetic then all I do is sweep the wood shavings past it. I find all kind of things that way.
Just remember to remove the magnetic if you are drilling or cutting metal on your lathe. Next to impossible to get all those little sharp metal pieces of the magnetic.


----------



## ctubbs (Apr 20, 2011)

Being an electrician, I had to find a way to remove metal shavings from junction boxes after drilling holes for entry.  I take a Ziploc bag or any piece of plastic wrap and place my magnetic level inside.  Drag the magnet over the shavings.  The junk sticks to the plastic so that when I pull the sheet off the level, the metal falls away leaving the magnet clean.  Works every time.
Charles


----------



## ashaw (Apr 20, 2011)

Production Line:
My last sizable order was around 100 pens.  I can do 100 pens/week comfortably.  
I cut, drill and glue a days worth of pens the night before turning.
I turn all of the upper barrels then all of the lower barrels.  
Then spend a day assembling pens.  
As someone said before slow and easy.  Going too fast you will be wasting material and time.
Ed was correct to test your setup before doing a mass production DAMHIKT.  I usually do it on a extra piece of material.


----------



## spnemo (Apr 20, 2011)

I do mine in several steps:

1.  Cut all blanks to length
2.  Drill all blanks
3.  Glue all blanks
4.  square all blanks
Then with Dust Collector on:
5.  Turn all blanks (very carefully)
6.  Sand all blanks
7.  Apply CA finish to all blanks 
8.  Let CA cure for at least 24 hours
9.  Sand and buff CA
10.  Assemble pens (opening bags as I go because I don't want to lose parts).


----------



## bad (Apr 20, 2011)

I turn all of my pens in large runs. I set up all of one type of pen kit. In other words I turn 30 - 50 slimline pens then 30 - 50 cigar etc.

First I decide how many of each type of pen I'm going to make. I pick out that many blanks. Mark the centre line with an arrow on each half pointing to the centre line. This makes it easier to line up the grain later. If I'm doing a particularly big run I'll number the blanks. In other words both halves of the first blank get number 1 etc.

Then I'll cut all of the blanks. Then I'll drill all of the halves.

I have a second mandrel and spare bushings. I'll put the mandrel into my cordless drill, set up the brass tubes and bushings on the mandrel and use the drill and some sand paper to rough up the brass tubes. This can be done while watching tv.  Just make sure you put down some newspaper to catch the mess. You'll also want to turn the volume up a little on the TV. 

Glue all of the tubes into the blanks. Also done while watching TV. I set up a fan to blow the glue fumes away.

Trim all of the blanks at the same time.

Set up the lathe and start turning. At this point I'll pick out both blanks that have the number 1 on them and put them on the lathe with the arrows on each half pointing to each other. Please believe me, having the blanks marked with numbers and arrows REALLY saves a lot of time at this point.

As for those stupid little plastic bags, as I'm assembling the pens I'll rip the top off of the bags. I have no use for them when I'm finished anyway. The larger bag that the whole pen kit comes in I will save. When the pen is finished I'll put the pen in the bag and write which type of wood it is. The type of pen kit us usually already on the bag. This makes it much easier to identify and lable the pens when I put them in the boxes later.

Hope that helps.


----------



## PenMan1 (Apr 20, 2011)

LeeR said:


> PenMan1 said:
> 
> 
> > [...]
> ...


 
Thanks, Lee.
I guess this shows how CHEAP I really am, but I like plumber's putty, because when I push it out of the tube, after the glue had dried, the putty goes right back into the can for re-use. I think one can of putty lasts about two or three years:biggrin:


----------



## glen r (Apr 20, 2011)

I find the best way to open those pesky little and big bags is to try and slide the front seal part against the back seal part in opposite directions using 2 fingers - hard to explain.  It causes the seal to pop open and you are not trying to find the edge on the side with the "red" line.  I found that trying to tear them also resulted in pieces sometimes flying around.


----------



## Brooks803 (Apr 20, 2011)

I'm starting a small run right now and here's what I use. I can't remember where I found it but it was made to hold spools of thread. I've found it perfect for hold tubes after painting to dry and also to hold tubed and faced blanks that are waiting to be turned. I just use a sharpie to write what each blank is for and keep the packaged kits in a small photo box and write which blank corresponds with each kit. To get the parts out of the little baggies I squeeze the sealed parts between my fingers and twist, they come right apart.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n496/Brooks803/2011-04-20_19-09-10_969.jpg
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n496/Brooks803/2011-04-20_19-09-35_550.jpg

I'm having a prob putting the pics in here so those the direct links


----------



## SteveG (Apr 20, 2011)

Post 23: Like snapping your fingers while holding the "zip" portion of the bag between them. Works like a champ. Saw my wife doing this in her jewelry work...lots of little baggies in that pursuit also:biggrin:


----------



## bad (Apr 21, 2011)

SteveG said:


> Post 23: Like snapping your fingers while holding the "zip" portion of the bag between them. Works like a champ. Saw my wife doing this in her jewelry work...lots of little baggies in that pursuit also:biggrin:



I'm going to have to give that a try.


----------



## underdog (Apr 21, 2011)

Wow. I've been reading the responses for the past coupla days, and they're awesome!
I keep telling myself I'm going to post, but I've just been too exhausted...

Andy, If I had read your post first, I'd have avoided cracking my first pen in this batch. I was using a small turned piece of poplar in my drill press to press the pen kit together. When I saw a gap between the cap and the clip, I kept pressing until..... "POP!" the poplar button broke, letting the jaws of the chuck down on the pen, and took a chunk out of the side of the pen.... Then I noticed that the pen clip was not flat where it met the cap. About that time there were a few incantations uttered... @#%*~@!!!!
I made it a point to look through all the kits after I read your post...

So anyway... Tues. nite I turned a new throat plate for my bandsaw, then dug out a bunch of figured wood I've been hoarding, and sawed a coupla blanks. This evening I sawed out a bunch of blanks (finished up with about 52 sets), and matched them up per instructions, then drilled about 2/3rds of them. I'll see if I can finish up the rest tomorrow then figure out which of them I'll use on this batch of pens.

I need to get down to the hardware store and get some of that plumbers putty...

And try opening bags with a snap of my fingers...:wink:

And definitely cut a hole in the side of the shop to put the exhaust fan in!

Great tips folks! Thanks a bunch!


----------

