# For those of you with a mini metal lathe



## bruce119 (Sep 21, 2009)

I have a question. If you have a 7x12 mini metal lathe or similar. Then you have a MT-3 in the H.S. Now that means that you have to have a MT-3 to MT-2 reducer. Most wood lathes use MT-2.

So to the question how do you get the #2 morse arbor out of the 3 to 2 reducer. Every time I have to change it is a PIA. There must be a special tool or technique.

Here is a link to LMS that shows the MT3-MT2 sleeve. 
*http://tinyurl.com/n3qar6*
The problem is if you haven't worked with one is. The back is solid so you only have access from the side and can't get a punch in to get a straight hit. And they can be a pain to get apart. I mite have to make a tool to put in like a lever or something.

Any body encountered this and or solved it.

Thanks
Bruce


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## johnnycnc (Sep 21, 2009)

You need one of these items:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRI...d=15382Pstoreid=1040626Ppagenumber=1644Pmode=

Check the sizes, you need the right one.Place in the side opening and tap. Voila!:biggrin:


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## Texatdurango (Sep 21, 2009)

I use the handle of one of my wrenches.


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## me2cyclops (Sep 21, 2009)

drill out the back for a punch


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## randyrls (Sep 21, 2009)

In a pinch, a slot bladed screw drive of the correct size will work instead of a drift pin.
Oh;  it has to have a wedge shaped blade.


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## cbatzi01 (Sep 21, 2009)

johnnycnc said:


> You need one of these items:
> http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRI...d=15382Pstoreid=1040626Ppagenumber=1644Pmode=
> 
> Check the sizes, you need the right one.Place in the side opening and tap. Voila!:biggrin:


You know, I have one of these and had no idea how to use it.  Now I have something to do when I get downstairs!

Thanks!
Chris


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## fernhills (Sep 21, 2009)

I have one of those to get the chuck off of my drill press.  Mabe you can grind down one of those messed up files. Carl


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## CaptG (Sep 21, 2009)

I would not grind down a file to use as a drift.  Files are very hard and BRITTLE.  They would be prone to shatter and send very sharp hardened pieces of metal flying all over the shop.  I have seen it happen and it aint pretty.  Your local hardware or harbor freight should have drifts, and they are fairly cheap.


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## BRobbins629 (Sep 21, 2009)

I have 3 adapters.  They only cost about 5.00 each.  Rarely do I remove them from the adapter.


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## bitshird (Sep 21, 2009)

Bruce, what are you trying to remove? if you are using a pen mandrel, why not just use the 3 jaw chuck from the 7x12 lathe? or are you trying to use the 3 jaw from the metal lathe on your wood lathe, Not sure how that would work, or are you using a drill chuck, You done gone off and cornfused me.


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## BigShed (Sep 21, 2009)

bruce119 said:


> I have a question. If you have a 7x12 mini metal lathe or similar. Then you have a MT-3 in the H.S. Now that means that you have to have a MT-3 to MT-2 reducer. Most wood lathes use MT-2.



Bruce, my metal lathe has a #3 MT head stock spindle and I don't have a 3-2 reducer, why do I have to have one?

Your specific question has already been answered, but I'm curious what you need a MT3-MT2 reducer for? Most of the tools that use a MT2 mandrel can be bought with MT3. If it is to hold a pen mandrel, then JohhnyCNC has already pointed out that your 3 jaw chuck can hold that, and with less chance of run-out than putting an adapter sleeve in the mix.

Personally I use an ER25 collet chuck and an ER25 1/4" (6-7mm) or 5/16" (7-8mm) collet to hold the A or B mandrel respectively. These collets, I have a set from 2mm - 16mm) can be used for lots of operations, especially on bullet pens etc.

I have a Morse taper mandrels for these, an MT2 for my wood lathe and an MT3 for my metal lathe.


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## Texatdurango (Sep 21, 2009)

BigShed said:


> Bruce, my metal lathe has a #3 MT head stock spindle and I don't have a 3-2 reducer, why do I have to have one?
> 
> Your specific question has already been answered, but I'm curious what you need a MT3-MT2 reducer for? *Most of the tools that use a MT2 mandrel can be bought with MT3.* If it is to hold a pen mandrel, then JohhnyCNC has already pointed out that your 3 jaw chuck can hold that, and with less chance of run-out than putting an adapter sleeve in the mix.........


 
While I'm not Bruce, I use my adapter quite a bit just as he does.  I had my Jet mini lathe first and all the tools I bought were mt-2.  Among these are a collet chuck, small face plate adapters, steb centers, 60 degree centers, etc.

Of course you can go out and buy all these tools over again in mt-3 but why, when you can buy one adapter and use all the mt-2 tools on both lathes?


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## BigShed (Sep 21, 2009)

Fair enough, but I have yet to use a 60deg centre in the head stock of either lathe, I have a face plate that came with metal lathe, and prefer to have a dedicated collet chuck for each lathe. A lot of these tools, eg 60 deg centres, are only a few dollars each so not really an issue to have one of each (my 60 deg MT3 centre came with the lathe anyway).

My main concern is with run-out, I have a MT3-MT2 sleeve, when I put a MT 2 collet chuck in it and put a dial indicator on it I was quite amazed at the amount of run-out, so I bought a MT3 collet chuck.

The other reason I like to have one collet chuck for each lathe is that I often start a job on the metal lathe, eg truning an acrylic blank to almost the max diameter required, then I take it to the wood lathe to do the final shaping (only because I don't have a tool rest for the metal lathe (yet!).

So I have 2 collet chucks and 2 sets of collets, I can have the MT3 collet chuck setup with a 6-7mm collet on the metal lathe and an MT32 collet chuck also with a 6-7mm collet set up on the wood lathe, just a simple matter of swapping the mandrel with the blank still mounted from one to the other.


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## bruce119 (Sep 21, 2009)

Thanks for all the replies. And I do already have about 2 or 3 reducers. Time is always a factor. I will get a few more but I needed to change one today. I have a couple different mandrels and all the pen mandrels I have found are MT-2 there's one need for the reducer. I was using a MT-2 Jacobs chuck in the H.S. to hold some work. I do have a 3 jaw but the Jacobs is quick and easy and did the job just fine. Today I wanted to do some dilling in the T.S. So the need to remove the reducer. Getting anything in from the side really mars the back of the arbor up. I like the idea of drilling through the back of the reducer. I think that is the best solution. A hole drilled to fit a small/medium punch. It shouldn't hurt the functionality at all and you should still be able to knock it out. Why don't they just make them with a hole in the back it would make life a little easier.

Thanks for all the replies.
Bruce


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## bruce119 (Sep 21, 2009)

Texatdurango said:


> While I'm not Bruce, I use my adapter quite a bit just as he does. I had my Jet mini lathe first and all the tools I bought were mt-2. Among these are a collet chuck, small face plate adapters, steb centers, 60 degree centers, etc.
> 
> *Of course you can go out and buy all these tools over again in mt-3 but why, when you can buy one adapter and use all the mt-2 tools on both lathes?*


 
were would you find pen mandrels in MT-3. I couldn't find any. And the cost of a MT-3 Jacobs chuck 

There are good reasons of the adapter. And yes run out is an issue I have sent one back because of it and another is just perfect. You got to get lucky and get a good one.


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## BigShed (Sep 21, 2009)

Bruce, if time is a factor why not spend $20 on a 3/8" keyless Jacobs chuck and a further $5 on an MT3 arbor for it? Have a look at CDCO. You can do it even cheaper by going for the 3/8" keyed chuck at $6.00, ot for a few dollars more have a 1/2" chuck, but overkill if all you are going to hold in it is pen mandrels.


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## bruce119 (Sep 22, 2009)

BigShed said:


> Bruce, if time is a factor why not spend $20 on a 3/8" keyless Jacobs chuck and a further $5 on an MT3 arbor for it? Have a look at CDCO. You can do it even cheaper by going for the 3/8" keyed chuck at $6.00, ot for a few dollars more have a 1/2" chuck, but overkill if all you are going to hold in it is pen mandrels.


 


me2cyclops said:


> drill out the back for a punch


 
Time was a factor at the moment. All that is behind me now. I don't change all that often but when I do it is a pain. So I was actually fishing for ideas for future solutions. I think I have them I already have 3 good reducers. So I think drilling out the end so a medium punch can go in and knock out the MT-2 arbor is the solution I am going to go with. 

Thanks me2cyclops 
*JUST A MINUTE* I just now took the reducer and took a closer look at it. me2cyclops did you actually do that or just suggest it. Sounds like a good solution. *BUT* the end of the reducer is only a hair over 1/4" thick and just under 1" long. SOOOOO I think drilling mite not be the best or extremely difficult at best.

Thanks
Bruce


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## KenV (Sep 22, 2009)

Bruce -- I have a couple of MT mounts that hold a 1/4 by 28 thread -- eg pen mandrels but find I get very good use with either the adjustable mandrel or the ER collets - and I use the MT mounts less and less over time.   ER 16, 25, 32 are all available as are straight MT collets (with drawbar required) that will hold the nominal 6mm and 8 mm mandrels.  (D and M sizes).   I get D and M drill rod and make my own adjustable mandrels now.

Low runnout -  flexibility to move from lathe to lathe (1 1/4 by 8 down to 3/4 by 16) as well as those without MT (Bonnie Klein Lathe on Taig Headstock) -  

For your adapter -- you may need to shorten the MT shank on some of the tooling to allow the drift punch to have more room.  Not a big deal with a cutoff wheel.


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## Angelo49 (Sep 27, 2009)

Hi,
If I'm following this thread correctly,
   I think there is a reason why the tapered sleeves/adaptors use a slot with a drift pin, and don't have a hole in the back to remove any tooling. 
  You would have to insert a rod into the spindle and through the sleeve to knock out your tooling (chuck).
It's very possible that the sleeve and the chuck would come out together. Now you would have to grip the OD of the sleeve to try and knock out the chuck. 
   This will probably put some nasty nicks and gouges on the OD of the sleeve, which would result in the sleeve not holding in the spindle, have major run out, or mess up the internal spindle taper of the machine.

Angelo


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## William Menard (Jul 13, 2015)

*metal lathe mandrel*

not sure if I missed the boat but this is a mt3 mandrel i had fitted, tapped to use a threaded shaft for my metal lathe


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## TurtleTom (Aug 5, 2015)

It's called a drift pin by every machinist.


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