# 40W lasers discussion



## Carl Fisher

I didn't want to derail the other thread on the cool little NEJE machines but a few questions were posed that I wanted to answer.

As for what machine, this is the one I bought:
40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay

It is the newest 2015+ version with the upgraded M2 control board and such. It uses CorelDraw and CorelLaser instead of the old moshidraw software. I actually find this setup quite easy to use but still plan to do a smoothieboard upgrade at some point to do true gcode and color coded operations such as PWM power modulation to the laser, etc...

As for as work holding and such, I recommend ditching the included table and buying a honeycomb table or making your own table. lots of options out there in the DIY community. Then your next hurdle will be table height. Right now I'm just setting blocks of wood under the table to set my height, but will work on a table jack at some point in the near future along with a rotary of sorts.

I'll see if I can find some examples of indexing and setup to answer Keith's question from the other thread but it'll be a bit later as I'm on my way out the door.

There are also a few must have upgrades that I'll cover when I get back.


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## MesquiteMan

Carl,  Will this laser cut 1/8" rubber sheet?  Also, what do you mean about raising the table?  Is that to focus the laser?


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## Carl Fisher

Ok, a few must have upgrades.

If you are going to cut anything you will want an air assist head. The bonus to that is that if you get the one from lightobject it will allow you to put in an 18mm focal lens which is an overall better quality lens than the included lens. A nice high quality ZnSe lens will make your machine happy.

The exhaust port and fan that come with these units are pure garbage. Remove the port completely and then put a 4" boat bilge blower inline with your exhaust hose. It's 12v so allow for that but you'll be much happier and much healthier for both you and your machine.

Next would be a targeting laser. I'm using a cross shaped laser that paints about a 2" cross hair mark on my target. I've also seen it with single dot lasers, laser pointers, combiners, etc... it's just about how much you want to spend.

And eventually if you're into tinkering with the machine you can visit upgrades to a smoothieboard or similar. These will bypass the need for the CorelLaser and allow you to use any g-code software. This allows things like color coded lines for cut vs engrave in one operation, PWM modulation of the laser to allow for gray scale style engraving and overall more control of the machine. With the base controller and software you have to manually dial in your power setting and you can't vary it during the job with any accuracy. However if you just want to do simple engraving and cutting, this is perfectly acceptable.


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## Carl Fisher

MesquiteMan said:


> Carl,  Will this laser cut 1/8" rubber sheet?  Also, what do you mean about raising the table?  Is that to focus the laser?



I don't see why not. It burns ebonite for engraving at about 1/5 of it's power setting. Just make sure you are not burning anything that will release toxic gas such as PVC based materials. They release chlorine gas among other nasties.

As for moving the table, yes. You want to keep the laser focus lens at a set distance from your work piece. Most are 50.1mm but there are some various others for shorter focus ranges.

So when I'm doing flat sheet acrylic I need to raise the table higher than if I'm doing a pen body in a v-block for work holding or a box lid, etc...

You make yourself a 50mm block or any number of other designs of focus distance checking jigs and bring your table up to that height. There are powered z-axis tables out there but I'm going to make my own lab jack with a small stepper to give a DIY powered Z. Until then I'm doing it the manual way with blocks of wood and shims under the table to get the height where I need it.


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## Carl Fisher

A note on metal. A 40W laser isn't nearly enough to engrave metal. So don't expect to engrave bands or clips or the like.

However there are some chemicals on the market such as Thermark (expensive) or you'll see moly lube (cheap but various degrees of success) used as well where when the laser hits it, the coating bonds to the metal leaving an embossed marking. This is on top of the surface of the metal, not engraved into it so it may wear eventually.


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## Carl Fisher

Legal version of CorelDraw X5 for $99

Get a legal copy of CorelDRAW Graphics Suite

This was the link provided to me by Corel after trying to use the version included with my laser. I consider it a good deal at $99 but it's crappy that you don't get a legal version when you purchase the machine.


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## walshjp17

Alas, CorelDraw is MS compatible only.  Us Mac-eronis are once again SOOL.:frown:


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## keithbyrd

Carl Fisher said:


> I didn't want to derail the other thread on the cool little NEJE machines but a few questions were posed that I wanted to answer.
> 
> As for what machine, this is the one I bought:
> 40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay
> 
> It is the newest 2015+ version with the upgraded M2 control board and such. It uses CorelDraw and CorelLaser instead of the old moshidraw software. I actually find this setup quite easy to use but still plan to do a smoothieboard upgrade at some point to do true gcode and color coded operations such as PWM power modulation to the laser, etc...
> 
> As for as work holding and such, I recommend ditching the included table and buying a honeycomb table or making your own table. lots of options out there in the DIY community. Then your next hurdle will be table height. Right now I'm just setting blocks of wood under the table to set my height, but will work on a table jack at some point in the near future along with a rotary of sorts.
> 
> I'll see if I can find some examples of indexing and setup to answer Keith's question from the other thread but it'll be a bit later as I'm on my way out the door.
> 
> There are also a few must have upgrades that I'll cover when I get back.



Thanks Carl - I bought mine last fall and it engraves nicely.  For me it is trial and error to get the setting correct to engrave where I want it to!  I agree totally on the exhaust - still using the original but would like to upgrade - I appreciate any advice you can offer!!!


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## Carl Fisher

Edited: no need for this post as all of the links are provided below


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## Carl Fisher

Here is a running total of what I've spent so far. Not all of this is required if all you want to do is engrave pens, but many are considered must have upgrades by the Chinese laser community. 

Machine: 
40W CO2 Chinese laser with the latest M2 Nano board and CorelDraw/CorelLaser compatible
40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay

Exhaust upgrades
4" bilge blower (12v)
Amazon.com : Attwood Quiet Blower (White, 4-Inch) : Boat Blowers : Sports & Outdoors

4" vinyl flexible duct
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-FD420ZW-Flexible-4-Inches/dp/B001PQDUA0

4" dust collection port
http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70150-Rectangular-Dust-4-Inch/dp/B00M3JFNOO

Target Laser
http://www.amazon.com/Focusable-650nm-Module-driver-Plastic/dp/B00S1EXW3Y

Laser Holder
K40 CO2 Laser Dual Head Laser Holder for 10mm or 12mm | eBay

LED Voltage Meter for setting the laser power
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Voltage-Voltmeter-Monitoring/dp/B00C58JGE6

Light Object water pressure sensor
http://www.amazon.com/Lightobject-LSR-H2OPRSNR-Pressure-Sensor-Protection/dp/B00HUC5FC4

Air pump for air assist head
Amazon.com: EcoPlus 728450 1 to 18W Single Outlet Commercial Air Pump, 793 GPH: Patio, Lawn & Garden

18mm head with air assist
18mm Laser head w/ air assisted. Ideal for K40 machine

18mm ZnSe focus lens with 50.8mm focal length
Improved 18mm ZnSe Focus lens (F50.8mm)

300x200 honeycomb bed
300X200 Honeycomb. Fit K40 machine


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## Joey-Nieves

Carl:
This is very, very useful, I was waiting for the other thread to dye down to ask this question, but this topic is trending at the moment.

I  want a laser for engraving pens, cutting parts, inserts and maybe try to make inlay blanks, and the NEJE will serve one purpose, engraving pens.

After verifying you list it goes up to $580 + shipping witch is very good when you compare to a $10,000 

Do you have a link for instructions on how to make these upgrades?


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## Maverick KB

I had a blast a couple years ago when I got my K40. The old Moshi software was junk and the control board was horrible. The thing would routinely just take off cutting a line at a 45 degree angle, destroying any piece I had positioned in the bed. 

I upgraded the control board and software, installed a motorized lift bed and all new wiring and guts. I must say, I certainly learned a lot with this project. Even though it cost me almost twice as much in the end, the results were fantastic and the lessons learned were very useful when I ventured into a Parana CNC router for small signs and pen box engraving. The only issue I have with a 30-40W CO2 is the number of passes it takes to cut 1/8" ply, but as long as you can avoid a fire... it will do the job. Crazy scorch marks and you'll get an appreciation for the focus of the laser when you examine the angle of the cuts.

If you don't mind tinkering, know or are willing to learn basic electronics, and have some patience this can be a very rewarding project and a valuable tool. Once you gut and rebuild one of these, the mystery is removed and you'll be wanting to build larger lasers and CNC machines. This can start an addiction... you've been warned.


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## duncsuss

Carl -- Thanks for the time you've put into gathering all this information and sharing it -- at some point I know that I'll outgrow the toy that I just bought (the 1000mW Neje) and want to get something like this.

Do you think it can be used to cut thin Kevlar sheets? I have some that I'm using to make templates for airbrushing -- right now I'm limited to my skill with an X-acto blade, this would open up new possibilities.


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## Carl Fisher

Ken isn't kidding. This is an addiction and a disease   It started with me building my own CNC, now the laser. Now I'm looking at 3D printers...it just never ends.

As for instructions, nothing formal and just takes a small degree of tinkering. These machines aren't that complex and once you understand the basics they are really easy to work with. The longest/hardest process is making sure all of the mirrors are properly aligned and then dealing with focal length issues for deep cuts as Ken mentioned above. Some of that can be mediated by upgrading to a powered Z-axis and a new control board, but now you're adding on about another $400 when all is said and done. It's not a requirement, but you'll understand when your cut is on a slight angle because the beam widens out as it passes it's focal point.

The NEJE is a great machine if you only want to engrave wood pens or small items. However as soon as you want to do other materials such as plastics or do any cutting you'll need to move up.

And the new M2 board is an improvement over the old moshidraw board. I'm planning to stick with it for a while and use the heck out of it until I'm really ready for my stage 2 upgrades.


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## Carl Fisher

duncsuss said:


> Do you think it can be used to cut thin Kevlar sheets? I have some that I'm using to make templates for airbrushing -- right now I'm limited to my skill with an X-acto blade, this would open up new possibilities.



My understanding is that you can't get through real carbon fiber, so I'm guessing Kevlar is out of the question. The resin burns fine but the cloth laughs at the 40W laser. Based on my research anyway.

I have a sheet of composite carbon material here I was going to try to cut but I don't have high hopes.


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## duncsuss

Carl Fisher said:


> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it can be used to cut thin Kevlar sheets? I have some that I'm using to make templates for airbrushing -- right now I'm limited to my skill with an X-acto blade, this would open up new possibilities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding is that you can't get through real carbon fiber, so I'm guessing Kevlar is out of the question. The resin burns fine but the cloth laughs at the 40W laser. Based on my research anyway.
> 
> I have a sheet of composite carbon material here I was going to try to cut but I don't have high hopes.
Click to expand...


I just checked -- the stuff I've got isn't Kevlar, it's Mylar, I believe 0.01" thickness (10 mil).

Sorry for the misleading question, my brain gets stuck in neutral this time of the day


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## sailing_away

Yes a CO2 laser will cut through Mylar.  It slices right through it like butter.  I've used my CO2 laser to cut through Mylar to make templates and mock up flexible circuit boards for work.


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## Carl Fisher

yeah, mylar would be cake.


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## PapaTim

Carl Fisher said:


> Ken isn't kidding. This is an addiction and a disease


 
Yeah but we're all pen turners, we already know about addictions and diseases.:biggrin:


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## keithbyrd

Carl,
Your response to my question and thoroughness of the answers and links to information is impressive and appreciated.  People like you are why the IAP continues to be a great place to go and be part of!  
Thank you.


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## Carl Fisher

I'm currently working with someone who has a 3D printer and a design for a different style of targeting laser. This one will allow a single dot laser to fire into the secondary mirror and paint an accurate target through the laser head while the lid of the machine is open. When you close the lid it will pivot the targeting laser out of the path of the main laser. 

I'm finding that I don't like the way my targeting laser is setup as it can vary if your not  targeted right at the focal length of the work piece and it's skewed since it sits off to the side of the laser head.

The new one should remove all of that guess work.

You can see a version of it on Thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1002341


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## mecompco

Carl Fisher said:


> I'm currently working with someone who has a 3D printer and a design for a different style of targeting laser. This one will allow a single dot laser to fire into the secondary mirror and paint an accurate target through the laser head while the lid of the machine is open. When you close the lid it will pivot the targeting laser out of the path of the main laser.
> 
> I'm finding that I don't like the way my targeting laser is setup as it can vary if your not  targeted right at the focal length of the work piece and it's skewed since it sits off to the side of the laser head.
> 
> The new one should remove all of that guess work.
> 
> You can see a version of it on Thingiverse here: Laser pointer for K40 Chinese CO2 Laser by ThorMJ - Thingiverse



Very cool, and I have access to a 3D printer. Now I want a 40 watt unit! Sadly, the wallet is a bit flat ATM. :frown:


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## BradG

Hey Carl,
Thanks for creating this thread. I couldn't see it yesterday hence why I started one - have since asked for it to be deleted :redface:

Just food for thought, but an anodised metal pen can have the anodising removed by laser. We may not be able to etch metal at these powers, but I would think stripping anodising would be a better approach than using the marking compounds which as you said, may wear off with time. Anodising is pretty permanent as you know. Needless to say I'm looking into this so I can put names on my pens professionally, but id like to experiment with graphic effects too. 


I've been eyeing up this one. Quite a price jump for the one you're using. Would you mind having a read to see what you think?

PRO 50W CO2 Desktop USB Laser Engraving Cutting Machine Cutter Engraver | eBay

This one comes with a Rotary attachment. 


Could I ask what you do with regards to the water cooling?


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## Maverick KB

Carl Fisher said:


> I'm currently working with someone who has a 3D printer and a design for a different style of targeting laser. This one will allow a single dot laser to fire into the secondary mirror and paint an accurate target through the laser head while the lid of the machine is open. When you close the lid it will pivot the targeting laser out of the path of the main laser.
> 
> I'm finding that I don't like the way my targeting laser is setup as it can vary if your not  targeted right at the focal length of the work piece and it's skewed since it sits off to the side of the laser head.
> 
> The new one should remove all of that guess work.
> 
> You can see a version of it on Thingiverse here: Laser pointer for K40 Chinese CO2 Laser by ThorMJ - Thingiverse



I would be concerned about 2 things off the bat. 
1. The width of a focusing laser may not match the diameter of the laser from the tube and therefore you may not get an accurate focus on your Z axis.
2. The laser and pivot arm would have to be mounted to the case and not the lid as the lid may have too much play in the hinges over time and not rest in exactly the same place. That would mean a mechanical lift arm in the way of my gantry, but you might have more room than me.

For these reasons I'm more a fan of two dot lasers on either side of my laser head (3D printing a mount is easy) placed at a calculated angle so that the dots overlap at a fixed focal point. I have a motorized bed for Z axis, so I would simply raise or lower the piece until my red dots join. Then I have not only my focal point but also my virtual zero if I'm trying to hit a specific point on a piece of material.

Just my preferences as food for thought.

edit*
Here are the focusing lasers i picked up. They work quite well and the individual focus on them helps with macro adjustments in the 2 laser setup.
http://www.lightobject.com/5mW-650nm-Red-Laser-pointer-with-adjustable-focus-point-P585.aspx

The mod you mentioned is a simple version of a beam combiner. Like this http://www.lightobject.com/Laser-machine-25mm-beam-combiner-mount-with-laser-pointer-P1000.aspx

Certainly not a bad way to go, I just liked this option better... something like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:558587


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## Maverick KB

Here are some of the upgrades i used on mine:

New brains! No more Moshi. That board and software was so bad on mine it was this or the dump.
X7 DSP upgrade kit for D/K40 small CO2 laser machine

I put the motorized bed in. This was a game changer!!!
Power table/ bed kit for K40 small laser machine

In the end, I probably over spent and could have built a better bigger one from scratch, but I learned a lot. I also upgraded the water pump with a pond pump from Lowes, upgraded the exhaust fan, replaced the mirrors & the focusing head, added air assist and zero stop switches... basically, I only kept the case, the laser tube and the X, Y gantry (which I had to modify so it ran true).

I may build a new frame and gantry system and transplant my guts for a larger work area. Then, when my tube dies, i can replace it with an 80W tube or better. 

See... it never ends...


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## Sylvanite

BradG said:


> Just food for thought, but an anodised metal pen can have the anodising removed by laser. We may not be able to etch metal at these powers, but I would think stripping anodising would be a better approach than using the marking compounds which as you said, may wear off with time.



Be aware that laser-engraving anodized metal does not simply remove the anodizing.  I've engraved a variety of anodized aluminum items (dog tags, flashlights, pocket knives, etc.).  The laser leaves a white mark, not silver.  Also, the mark tends to flow a little, so don't expect the same resolution you can get on other materials.

I hope that helps,
Eric


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## BradG

Sylvanite said:


> BradG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just food for thought, but an anodised metal pen can have the anodising removed by laser. We may not be able to etch metal at these powers, but I would think stripping anodising would be a better approach than using the marking compounds which as you said, may wear off with time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be aware that laser-engraving anodized metal does not simply remove the anodizing.  I've engraved a variety of anodized aluminum items (dog tags, flashlights, pocket knives, etc.).  The laser leaves a white mark, not silver.  Also, the mark tends to flow a little, so don't expect the same resolution you can get on other materials.
> 
> I hope that helps,
> Eric
Click to expand...


Hi Eric. what wattage laser do you have?

I am aiming for this level.


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## Nick Rocco

Carl,

What do you think of this version of the 40W CO2 laser:

40W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Cutter Machine ENGRAVER USB Port High Precise | eBay

Do you feel that the upgraded controls included are worth the extra money as a starting point?


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## Turned Around

that seems like a reasonable price. wonder how that one performs. didn't see any examples on the page.


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## Carl Fisher

Nick Rocco said:


> Carl,
> 
> What do you think of this version of the 40W CO2 laser:
> 
> 40W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Cutter Machine ENGRAVER USB Port High Precise | eBay
> 
> Do you feel that the upgraded controls included are worth the extra money as a starting point?




I've been following a bit of talk on the newest version on the market, but so far nobody has owned up to buying one.

It has some neat upgrades but I have to wonder if they are quality upgrades or just something thrown in cheaply to try to get a leg up in a very competitive market.


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## Turned Around

Carl Fisher said:


> Nick Rocco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Carl,
> 
> What do you think of this version of the 40W CO2 laser:
> 
> 40W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Cutter Machine ENGRAVER USB Port High Precise | eBay
> 
> Do you feel that the upgraded controls included are worth the extra money as a starting point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been following a bit of talk on the newest version on the market, but so far nobody has owned up to buying one.
> 
> It has some neat upgrades but I have to wonder if they are quality upgrades or just something thrown in cheaply to try to get a leg up in a very competitive market.
Click to expand...

 
I came back to revisit this one, but eBay sends me to a listing for a set of lights used by DJs.


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## hanau

Carl, 
 You have any videos of your laser? Ordering the laser you linked earlier.


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## Carl Fisher

Turned Around said:


> Carl Fisher said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick Rocco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Carl,
> 
> What do you think of this version of the 40W CO2 laser:
> 
> 40W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Cutter Machine ENGRAVER USB Port High Precise | eBay
> 
> Do you feel that the upgraded controls included are worth the extra money as a starting point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been following a bit of talk on the newest version on the market, but so far nobody has owned up to buying one.
> 
> It has some neat upgrades but I have to wonder if they are quality upgrades or just something thrown in cheaply to try to get a leg up in a very competitive market.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I came back to revisit this one, but eBay sends me to a listing for a set of lights used by DJs.
Click to expand...


Hah!  That's funny. I didn't think they reused links like that.


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## Carl Fisher

hanau said:


> Carl,
> You have any videos of your laser? Ordering the laser you linked earlier.



I can get some next time I'm out there. I have to do some laser work tonight or tomorrow so I'll try to remember to take some video.


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## hanau

Thanks,


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## hanau

Will these laser run on windows 10?
I have a xp computer but that is running my mill and don't want to share computers between the 2.


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## Carl Fisher

Yes or no. Vague enough answer for you?

I had to spin up an old laptop with Windows 7 so I could run CorelDraw without issue. When I try to run it on my Windows 10 laptop Corel can get a bit funny. The menu system is messed up and the layers go haywire once in a while. I didn't want that happening during a burn and messing up a work piece.  

However some claim it's working fine. I'm using Corel X7 if I recall (I'll check tonight) and it works fine with the CorelLaser overlay that comes with the machine. The CorelDraw v12 that they include is complete junk and likely a counterfeit anyway.

Now if you decide to swap out the Moshi board for one of the various upgrades such as a Smoothieboard, Ramps or Arduino/Grbl setup you can use any OS you want with the appropriate g-code sender. There are plugins for Inkscape and many others that will allow you to send directly to the laser if you go this route and if you get something that is PWM capable you'll even be able to engrave grayscale pretty well in addition to color coding your drawing for different operations. i.e. red lines for cut, various colors for engraving at different power levels, etc... Lots of fun to be had.


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## Joey-Nieves

Carl Fisher said:


> Yes or no. Vague enough answer for you?
> 
> I had to spin up an old laptop with Windows 7 so I could run CorelDraw without issue. When I try to run it on my Windows 10 laptop Corel can get a bit funny. The menu system is messed up and the layers go haywire once in a while. I didn't want that happening during a burn and messing up a work piece.
> 
> However some claim it's working fine. I'm using Corel X7 if I recall (I'll check tonight) and it works fine with the CorelLaser overlay that comes with the machine. The CorelDraw v12 that they include is complete junk and likely a counterfeit anyway.
> 
> Now if you decide to swap out the Moshi board for one of the various upgrades such as a Smoothieboard, Ramps or Arduino/Grbl setup you can use any OS you want with the appropriate g-code sender. There are plugins for Inkscape and many others that will allow you to send directly to the laser if you go this route and if you get something that is PWM capable you'll even be able to engrave grayscale pretty well in addition to color coding your drawing for different operations. i.e. red lines for cut, various colors for engraving at different power levels, etc... Lots of fun to be had.


  I have the same problem with corelDraw. After doing some reading  on the internet I found the most insane solution but it worked. I have only one account on my Laptop, me with administrator privileges, so you would think that I'm the administrator, well I had to open another account as the administrator, so to use Corel I have to login to this account an only use corel.  I hope it works for you, like I said sounds stupid,but it works.


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## hanau

Carl Fisher said:


> Here is a running total of what I've spent so far. Not all of this is required if all you want to do is engrave pens, but many are considered must have upgrades by the Chinese laser community.
> 
> Machine:
> 40W CO2 Chinese laser with the latest M2 Nano board and CorelDraw/CorelLaser compatible
> 40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay
> 
> Exhaust upgrades
> 4" bilge blower (12v)
> Amazon.com : Attwood Quiet Blower (White, 4-Inch) : Boat Blowers : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> 4" vinyl flexible duct
> http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-FD420ZW-Flexible-4-Inches/dp/B001PQDUA0
> 
> 4" dust collection port
> http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70150-Rectangular-Dust-4-Inch/dp/B00M3JFNOO
> 
> Target Laser
> http://www.amazon.com/Focusable-650nm-Module-driver-Plastic/dp/B00S1EXW3Y
> 
> Laser Holder
> K40 CO2 Laser Dual Head Laser Holder for 10mm or 12mm | eBay
> 
> LED Voltage Meter for setting the laser power
> http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Voltage-Voltmeter-Monitoring/dp/B00C58JGE6
> 
> Light Object water pressure sensor
> http://www.amazon.com/Lightobject-LSR-H2OPRSNR-Pressure-Sensor-Protection/dp/B00HUC5FC4
> 
> Air pump for air assist head
> Amazon.com: EcoPlus 728450 1 to 18W Single Outlet Commercial Air Pump, 793 GPH: Patio, Lawn & Garden
> 
> 18mm head with air assist
> 18mm Laser head w/ air assisted. Ideal for K40 machine
> 
> 18mm ZnSe focus lens with 50.8mm focal length
> Improved 18mm ZnSe Focus lens (F50.8mm)
> 
> 300x200 honeycomb bed
> 300X200 Honeycomb. Fit K40 machine



Order the laser today.
s there anylinks on replacing the head and lens with the air assit head and 18mm lens?
or is pretty straight forward?

also will Corel Draw graphics X6 work?

Hopefully you don't get tired of the questions.


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## Carl Fisher

X6 should work fine. Just don't plan on using the one included on the CD when you get the machine.

Supposedly another software chain would be to use any other application such as Inkscape, Sketchup, etc... and then use LaserDraw to import the drawing and lase it. I've not tried this and I'm not 100% up to speed on how LaserDraw works, but it's supposed purpose in life is to talk to the laser.

As for the head, it's straight forward. The two halves of the head are threaded together sandwiching the mounting plate. Just remove one, move your mirror over from the old head to the new, install your new 18mm lens into the new head and screw the two halves back together onto the plate. The hardest part is making sure you get all the mirrors aligned after as once you twist that head your final mirror is way out of alignment.

Also you'll be able to re-position the air nozzle on the head after it's mounted, so don't worry about that orientation right away.


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## Carl Fisher

Oh, also note that the new lens will sit up further in the head. This matters when you are setting your work piece distance. So it's not ~50mm from the bottom of the head, it's ~50mm from the surface of the lens. Best thing is to do a calibration run on a piece of material that is slanted from low right to high left. So that as you run a horizontal line with the laser the focal point will get progressively closer to the lens. Then find the cleanest burn mark along the length of what was just burned and use that to make a height block from there to some point of reference on the machine. The laser head, the gantry, whatever. Just something that you can use to set the height of the work piece.


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## hanau

Instea of buying another air pump can I use my air compressor with a air filter and regulator?  

I plan on using a solenoid valve to turn air on when laser is powered on and going to look for a water solenoid to turn water on also.


----------



## Carl Fisher

Yes, I actually have considered doing that. I just didn't want to have my compressor cycling constantly on long running jobs. Figured it was easier to provide a constant quiet stream with the pump.

Install a 1/4" fitting on your unit to hook up to and add a regulator either outside or inside the machine. It has plenty of free space in the case for add-ons.


----------



## hanau

How much psi is needed


----------



## Carl Fisher

minimal. Just a light puff basically.

Think slightly more than an aquarium pump. So you'll want light PSI but also a ball valve to control amount of airflow. You don't want a strong stream of air.


----------



## sschering

Any idea if it's 500x700 60w big brother is any good?


----------



## Carl Fisher

I've seen a few mentions of the 50W and 60W versions. No personal experience with them but they are pretty much in line with the 40W. i.e. some good, some bad. It's really luck of the draw with these.


----------



## Joey-Nieves

Carl Fisher, The fisher of Pens, Started this thread about his 40w laser.  This thread is informative and a quick guide on how to set up a laser engraving system with all the bell and whistle that most high end engraver has.  This is an just a summation of the thread. I summarized it some, in the hopes that he would clean it up and submit it to the library.

                  The machine he started out with is 40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay
  I had a blast a couple years ago when I got my K40. The old Moshi software was junk and the control board was horrible. The thing would routinely just take off cutting a line at a 45 degree angle, destroying any piece I had positioned in the bed.

  The newer version has a redesigned control board, has solved most of the software issues he encountered.  40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay , “It is the newest 2015+ version with the upgraded M2 control board and such. It uses CorelDraw and CorelLaser instead of the old moshidraw software. I actually find this setup quite easy to use but still plan to do a smoothieboard upgrade at some point to do true gcode and color coded operations such as PWM power modulation to the laser, etc...”

*Upgrades and recommendations:*



As for as work holding and such, I recommend ditching the included table and buying a honeycomb table or making your own table. lots of options out there in the DIY community. Then your next hurdle will be table height. Right now I'm just setting blocks of wood under the table to set my height, but will work on a table jack at some point in the near future along with a rotary of sorts.


    If you are going to cut anything you will want an air assist head. The bonus to that is that if you get the one from light object it will allow you to put in an 18mm focal lens which is an overall better quality lens than the included lens. A nice high quality ZnSe lens will make your machine happy.


 Oh, also note that the new lens will sit up further in the head. This matters when you are setting your work piece distance. So it's not ~50mm from the bottom of the head, it's ~50mm from the surface of the lens. Best thing is to do a calibration run on a piece of material that is slanted from low right to high left. So that as you run a horizontal line with the laser the focal point will get progressively closer to the lens. Then find the cleanest burn mark along the length of what was just burned and use that to make a height block from there to some point of reference on the machine. The laser head, the gantry, whatever. Just something that you can use to set the height of the work piece.


   [FONT=&quot]o   [/FONT]As for the head, it's straight forward. The two halves of the head are threaded together sandwiching the mounting plate. Just remove one, move your mirror over from the old head to the new, install your new 18mm lens into the new head and screw the two halves back together onto the plate. The hardest part is making sure you get all the mirrors aligned after as once you twist that head your final mirror is way out of alignment.


   [FONT=&quot]o   [/FONT]Also you'll be able to re-position the air nozzle on the head after it's mounted, so don't worry about that orientation right away.


The exhaust port and fan that come with these units are pure garbage. Remove the port completely and then put a 4" boat bilge blower in line with your exhaust hose.  Its 12v so allow for that but you'll be much happier and much healthier for both you and your machine.


Next would be a targeting laser. I'm using a cross shaped laser that paints about a 2" cross hair mark on my target. I've also seen it with single dot lasers, laser pointers, combiners, etc... it's just about how much you want to spend.
And eventually if you're into tinkering with the machine you can visit upgrades to a smoothie board or similar. These will bypass the need for the CorelLaser and allow you to use any g-code software. This allows things like color coded lines for cut vs engrave in one operation, PWM modulation of the laser to allow for gray scale style engraving and overall more control of the machine. With the base controller and software you have to manually dial in your power setting and you can't vary it during the job with any accuracy. However if you just want to do simple engraving and cutting, this is perfectly acceptable.
I upgraded the control board and software, installed a motorized lift bed and all new wiring and guts. I must say, I certainly learned a lot with this project. Even though it cost me almost twice as much in the end, the results were fantastic and the lessons learned were very useful when I ventured into a Parana CNC router for small signs and pen box engraving. The only issue I have with a 30-40W CO2 is the number of passes it takes to cut 1/8" ply, but as long as you can avoid a fire... it will do the job. Crazy scorch marks and you'll get an appreciation for the focus of the laser when you examine the angle of the cuts.


   [FONT=&quot]o   [/FONT]And the new M2 board is an improvement over the old moshi draw board. I'm planning to stick with it for a while and use the heck out of it until I'm really ready for my stage 2 upgrades.
   Here is a running total of what I've spent so far. Not all of this is required if all you want to do is engrave pens, but many are considered must have upgrades by the Chinese laser community.
*
Ok, a few must have upgrades*.

Machine: 
  40W CO2 Chinese laser with the latest M2 Nano board and CorelDraw/CorelLaser compatible
40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay

Exhaust upgrades
4" bilge blower (12v)
Amazon.com : Attwood Quiet Blower (White, 4-Inch) : Boat Blowers : Sports & Outdoors

4" vinyl flexible duct
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-.../dp/B001PQDUA0

4" dust collection port
http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70150.../dp/B00M3JFNOO

Target Laser
http://www.amazon.com/Focusable-650n.../dp/B00S1EXW3Y

Laser Holder
K40 CO2 Laser Dual Head Laser Holder for 10mm or 12mm | eBay

LED Voltage Meter for setting the laser power
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-V.../dp/B00C58JGE6

Light Object water pressure sensor
http://www.amazon.com/Lightobject-LS.../dp/B00HUC5FC4

Air pump for air assist head
Amazon.com: EcoPlus 728450 1 to 18W Single Outlet Commercial Air Pump, 793 GPH: Patio, Lawn & Garden

18mm head with air assist
18mm Laser head w/ air assisted. Ideal for K40 machine

18mm ZnSe focus lens with 50.8mm focal length
Improved 18mm ZnSe Focus lens (F50.8mm)

300x200 honeycomb bed
300X200 Honeycomb. Fit K40 machine
  I put the motorized bed in. This was a game changer!!!
Power table/ bed kit for K40 small laser machine 
  Upgrade board for Moshi Engravers.
X7 DSP upgrade kit for D/K40 small CO2 laser machine


  If you don't mind tinkering, know or are willing to learn basic electronics, and have some patience this can be a very rewarding project and a valuable tool. Once you gut and rebuild one of these, the mystery is removed and you'll be wanting to build larger lasers and CNC machines. This can start an addiction... you've been warned. 

  Now if you decide to swap out the Moshi board for one of the various upgrades such as a Smoothieboard, Ramps or Arduino/Grbl setup you can use any OS you want with the appropriate g-code sender. There are plugins for Inkscape and many others that will allow you to send directly to the laser if you go this route and if you get something that is PWM capable you'll even be able to engrave grayscale pretty well in addition to color coding your drawing for different operations. i.e. red lines for cut, various colors for engraving at different power levels, etc... Lots of fun to be had.
  As for instructions, nothing formal and just takes a small degree of tinkering. These machines aren't that complex and once you understand the basics they are really easy to work with. The longest/hardest process is making sure all of the mirrors are properly aligned and then dealing with focal length issues for deep cuts as Ken mentioned above. Some of that can be mediated by upgrading to a powered Z-axis and a new control board, but now you're adding on about another $400 when all is said and done.
*
Legal version of CorelDraw X5 for $99
*
Get a legal copy of CorelDRAW Graphics Suite

This was the link provided to me by Corel after trying to use the version included with my laser. I consider it a good deal at $99 but it's crappy that you don't get a legal version when you purchase the machine. 
  X6 should work fine. Just don't plan on using the one included on the CD when you get the machine.

Supposedly another software chain would be to use any other application such as Inkscape, Sketchup, etc... and then use LaserDraw to import the drawing and lase it. I've not tried this and I'm not 100% up to speed on how LaserDraw works, but it's supposed purpose in life is to talk to the laser
*
Will these laser run on windows 10?*

Yes or no. Vague enough answer for you?
  I had to spin up an old laptop with Windows 7 so I could run CorelDraw without issue. When I try to run it on my Windows 10 laptop Corel can get a bit funny. The menu system is messed up and the layers go haywire once in a while. I didn't want that happening during a burn and messing up a work piece. 
  However some claim it's working fine. I'm using Corel X7 if I recall (I'll check tonight) and it works fine with the CorelLaser overlay that comes with the machine. The CorelDraw v12 that they include is complete junk and likely a counterfeit anyway.
*
Will this laser cut 1/8" rubber sheet? Also, what do you mean about raising the table? Is that to focus the laser?*
  [FONT=&quot]
I don't see why not. It burns ebonite for engraving at about 1/5 of it's power setting. Just make sure you are not burning anything that will release toxic gas such as PVC based materials. They release chlorine gas among other nasties.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]As for moving the table, yes. You want to keep the laser focus lens at a set distance from your work piece. Most are 50.1mm but there are some various others for shorter focus ranges.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]So when I'm doing flat sheet acrylic I need to raise the table higher than if I'm doing a pen body in a v-block for work holding or a box lid, etc...[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]You make yourself a 50mm block or any number of other designs of focus distance checking jigs and bring your table up to that height. There are powered z-axis tables out there but I'm going to make my own lab jack with a small stepper to give a DIY powered Z. Until then I'm doing it the manual way with blocks of wood and shims under the table to get the height where I need it. [/FONT]

  A note on metal. A 40W laser isn't nearly enough to engrave metal. So don't expect to engrave bands or clips or the like.
  However there are some chemicals on the market such as Thermark (expensive) or you'll see moly lube (cheap but various degrees of success) used as well where when the laser hits it, the coating bonds to the metal leaving an embossed marking. This is on top of the surface of the metal, not engraved into it so it may wear eventually. 
  Yes a CO2 laser will cut through Mylar. It slices right through it like butter. I've used my CO2 laser to cut through Mylar to make templates and mock up flexible circuit boards for work.


----------



## Joey-Nieves

Carl, after reading the above summary that some posted, I was wondering if you could talk a little more on the control board a laser should have.  Most people, believe that we could go up a notch with a  50w or 60w laser that has the front and side doors, and include some of the extras you have installed on your unit.  I understand your concern for the quality of the upgrades, but for the sake of the discussion lets say their satisfactory.  The control unit is my primary concern.

I noticed on Ebay, that these machines are very similar, is their one similar to yours?  The brand Sykoo keeps popping up like it should mean something to us.:biggrin:  The ones that aren't blue are red, what has caught my eye is that some have a rotary attachment that resembles a mini lathe.

Your unit can reach $700 dollars with most of the upgrades, maybe more if one gets carried away.  

In your post you sort of hinted that one could replace the laser with a more powerful one, I it was mentioned as going from the 40w to an 80w laser, is this a one for the other thing or is their more to it, would be something to consider as an upgrade later on.

So in Short; What are the board specs we should look for? Do you know of one of those models with stands, 40w or above that is similar to the one you have? Can the mini lathe rotary attachment be used for making those fancy blanks?( I know that the epilog uses a special base that you have to make with laser and the file is free on their website)

Sorry for all the questions, I guess I waited to see if they got asked and answered, and maybe so, but I didn't get it.

Joey


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## hanau

Laser showed up Saturday.
Had to make room for lot bigger than I thought.








Now have to wait for a few things to show up before I can start modifying it.


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## Erik831

I want to engrave blocks of wood 3.5" thick , do you guys know if this laser would work for that?


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## Carl Fisher

Erik831 said:


> I want to engrave blocks of wood 3.5" thick , do you guys know if this laser would work for that?



Just engraving, sure. Once you pull that stock crappy bed out of there you have all the height you need. Just place scraps under the block until the surface is at your desired focal range which is usually right around 50.8mm


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## Erik831

Carl Fisher said:


> Just engraving, sure. Once you pull that stock crappy bed out of there you have all the height you need. Just place scraps under the block until the surface is at your desired focal range which is usually right around 50.8mm



How hard you think would be to set up for someone who has never used a laser besides the Small neje? I mainly will be engraving text no images.


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## hanau

finally was able to get it up and running. took a little while to get the software some what figured out.

First attempts at using it.


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## PapaTim

I just jumped into the pool and ordered a 40w from ebay this morning. Now to find something to put it on.


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## PapaTim

This guy was found on my porch. It wouldn't have been kind to just leave him there so the wife said we should give him a home. She's the best.



Hope to have him running early next week.


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## duncsuss

PapaTim said:


> She's the best.



Definitely a keeper :biggrin:

Enjoy your new toy!


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## mecompco

Nice! I sure would like one, but I know I'd quickly get the urge to do all the hot rod upgrades to it, along with the expense that requires. Right now I hope to get the little NEJE back into service after I burned it up.

Regards,
Michael


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## alankulwicki7

Hey all,
I bought the little NEJE and love it. The only bad thing is the small size. Now I'm looking for something bigger. 

The NEJE wasn't very hard to figure out but how hard is it to figure out the 40W laser?
Is it possible to do most work without doing the modifications in this thread? 

I understand that the mod's will make things easier and improve the machine but since I'm on a budget and have limited time, I don't really want to spend my spare time modding this from the get go. 

Any help would be appreciated!


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## hanau

I just had to replace my laser tube.
The stock pump quit working and cracked my tube. 
I had the pressure switch but never installed it and pump quit tube overheated and cracked.
Its installed now.

This was only after having it a couple weeks so never got to learn much with it.

So i would say at least get the pressure switch and blower to vent.

but really can not say yes or no to the other stuff but i did buy most of everything.
Program that comes with it you will need to play with not that bad.

I payed $315 for mine.


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## hanau

Playing around and shot a little video. Its about 10 min long

https://youtu.be/HGSV8JTKnCE

I ended up sitting the camera down on the window. doing some other work while it was running.


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## hanau

couple deer antler


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## liljohn1368

Looks good, John. I need to get me a laser engraver to put my logo on my calls....


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## hanau

Was able  to engrave into stainless steel. 
https://youtu.be/4ZzRo1yMxnk

Engraved on 1/2" stainless steel. 
 Using Molybdenum Disulifidepowder and dish liquid.


----------



## Mintman

I just bought mine.  I expect it to arrive around March 1st.  Is there anyone near either Philadelphia, PA or Ann Arbor, MI that has one and would be willing to spend a couple of hours tutoring me?


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


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## dcrichlow

I just bought this one , should arrive Wednesday, but I travel to Phillie for a week that same night so I won't be able to start playing or even unbox for about a week. Knowing I will have this sitting at home in the shop unboxed will be killing me.

High Precise 40W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine Engraver Cutter USB Port | eBay


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## Bob Kardell

I bought one off ebay about a year ago.  I haven't done any of the upgrades but manage to engrave pens and boxes as needed.  I think it takes some time to figure out but works well once I had saved a few template.  The bed that is in there doesn't really bother me as I use 1/4 inch wood to raise the surface or as a bed.  I use Win 10 without issues.

Here is a box I make for cousins winery:





Really just takes a lot of trial and error.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


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## Rolandranch

I'm not trying to get off-topic but I would like to learn more about laser engravers. I plan on getting one in the near future but I don't know much about them. Do you know of any websites or sources that would be good learning sources for me? Thank you.


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## hanau

Depending on what type of laser you want, the k40 40watt laser has a facebook page and google+ page that is real helpful.


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## hanau

Bob Kardell said:


> I bought one off ebay about a year ago.  I haven't done any of the upgrades but manage to engrave pens and boxes as needed.  I think it takes some time to figure out but works well once I had saved a few template.  The bed that is in there doesn't really bother me as I use 1/4 inch wood to raise the surface or as a bed.  I use Win 10 without issues.
> 
> Here is a box I make for cousins winery:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really just takes a lot of trial and error.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app



Bob, 
 I am getting ready to do some boxes in the next few weeks.
Could you share you speed and % that you are using?


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## DJBPenmaker

Bob Kardell said:


> I bought one off ebay about a year ago.  I haven't done any of the upgrades but manage to engrave pens and boxes as needed.  I think it takes some time to figure out but works well once I had saved a few template.  The bed that is in there doesn't really bother me as I use 1/4 inch wood to raise the surface or as a bed.  I use Win 10 without issues.
> 
> Here is a box I make for cousins winery:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really just takes a lot of trial and error.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


Which one did you go for?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Bob Kardell

I bought the one on EBay - Chinese 40w version but mine only had amp meter not a digital readout....so as far as the setting I can't really tell you a number.  But when you do boxes you want to use the lowest possible setting.  Mine is set so low that turning it down any more will turn it off. If it is set too high it will burn the foil and you will not be left with anything on the box.

The speed is 10.

Hope that helps


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


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## dcrichlow

dcrichlow said:


> I just bought this one , should arrive Wednesday, but I travel to Phillie for a week that same night so I won't be able to start playing or even unbox for about a week. Knowing I will have this sitting at home in the shop unboxed will be killing me.
> 
> High Precise 40W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine Engraver Cutter USB Port | eBay



Well I have to say after about 5 minutes I was engraving my first piece of wood. I have done a lot on this thing so far and I love it. Simple to learn the basics. I am still playing around a bit before I start to really offer up my engraving services. I LOVE THIS MACHINE....I can only imagine what will happen when I do bust out and buy a quality machine after I learn this one.....I do have to thank everyone here for the input and assistance in gathering the information needed before I purchased this.


----------



## hanau

played around with making a rotary for the k40 laser.
short video and couple pictures.,
sorry for the side way view
https://youtu.be/uKqrHjh1lE8

Just filled it with white acrylic paint, was hard to see against the wood.


----------



## keithbyrd

hanau said:


> couple deer antler



When you do Antler engraving - do you just burn the image or does it actually engrave it?  I am finding that when I do antler it just burns the surface!


----------



## hanau

Its in the surface if i remember right it was slow and high on the amp. But I don't remember what I actually was using for the settings.


----------



## Bob Kardell

hanau said:


> played around with making a rotary for the k40 laser.
> short video and couple pictures.,
> sorry for the side way view
> https://youtu.be/uKqrHjh1lE8
> 
> Just filled it with white acrylic paint, was hard to see against the wood.





Nice!  Did the motor just replace the y axis on your laser?  Did you have any issues plugging it into your board on the laser?  Did you have to use a special motor?  I have seen some advertised but was unsure if the motor would be compatible with the board...


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## hanau

I used a nema 17 motors like the ones that are in the laser. I just unplugged the y axis and plug the rotary motor in. No issues

Now this is just a experiment, there is some issues which I didn't really think about, it was me just trying to see if it will work. If you look at the lettering it is elongated. I will try a few different things and see if this can be corrected.


----------



## hanau

Found a guy on Facebook that supplies the printed parts for a rotary and you have to purchase the metal parts and motor. 
Works pretty good still have a few issues to work out.

https://youtu.be/MD3lwg6Rz5w

https://youtu.be/LtxBRx1rP7g

https://youtu.be/jyw-6PmERJ0

https://youtu.be/0PzEfrL_rVI


----------



## SJScher

Is it possible to engrave on acrylic pens using the 1500 engrave?


----------



## DJBPenmaker

SJScher said:


> Is it possible to engrave on acrylic pens using the 1500 engrave?


I've not tried actual turned acrylic but tried it on a piece of acrylic offcut and it made no Impression at all. There may be a way round it by painting matt black first but I've not tried that yet.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## SJScher

*40W laser rotary*

Has anyone found or created a rotary jig for pens on the 40W yet?


----------



## SJScher

*1500 W on Acrylic*

thank you for the answer and suggestion DJBPenmaker


----------



## duncsuss

SJScher said:


> Has anyone found or created a rotary jig for pens on the 40W yet?



You can buy the 4th-axis (rotational) upgrade on eBay ... LINK


----------



## hanau

SJScher said:


> Has anyone found or created a rotary jig for pens on the 40W yet?


This is one that Randy Smith from facebook supplies https://www.facebook.com/holgamods

https://youtu.be/LtxBRx1rP7g

and the bed lift he makes
https://youtu.be/3XWOvtc_Jo8


----------



## SJScher

*40W Laser Rotary*

Thank You both for the answers.  I will probably be getting the 40W  laser engraver and the rotary to go with it soon.  that is as soon as I convince the wife to lend me the credit card.  Boy the hobby of pen turning just keeps growing.


----------



## Silver

Only just picking up this thread. Excellent input from Carl and others that are progressing through it.

I had dealings with one around 10 months ago and purchased one off a friend that didn't get on that well with it.


It was a stock unit and no mods. I looked around to do research and how too's

No sure if anyone has seen the g+ communities. Excellent form of advice.

The laser k40 
https://plus.google.com/communities/118113483589382049502

I upgraded mine so that I can use open source software, best thing I ever did.  I mainly use laserweb amongst others 
Lasweweb G+
https://plus.google.com/communities/115879488566665599508

I put the cohesion 3D board in mine. Not a simple plug and play but once worked through it. Works really well.
Cohesion 3 d G+
https://plus.google.com/communities/116261877707124667493

smoothie G+
https://plus.google.com/communities/111870450664099533727

One word of warning with the K40 that has never been talked about in this thread, they are a dangerous piece of kit and tend to set on fire if you are not carefulll.

What I would say is never leave it alone when it's in operation as if the belts fail then it's curtains.. 
Also, when the job has been completed don't just lock the shop up and leave it, there may be embers still inside the body that catch fir. Stay with it and make sure nothing can catch fire.

I did all the mods that I see Carl has done, apart from motorising the Z axis bed table.

I didn't go for the light object jobs as posted to the UK they work out mega bucks. So ended up making all my own stuff.

Will post some pics when I get back from annual leave.


----------



## pjkoths

*Can I use . . .*

Hello -
A laser noob here.  I just purchased a Chinese 40W and everything I read states I need Coral Draw.  I use and am very familiar with Adobe Illustrator.  Can I use AI instead of CD??

Thanks -Pete


----------



## hanau

I switched to using a program called K40 whisper it runs using svg and supposedly dxf. Haven't tried dxf.

Inkscape is a free program that you can create svg files.


----------



## Monty

How deep of a cut will a 40watt laser make? Is it deep enough to make inlays?


----------



## hanau

I cut 3/16 acrylic with mine.Usually can do it in one pass. If the mirrors are perfectly align.


----------

