# Looking at Collet Chucks.



## Mark (Jun 14, 2010)

What's your opinion on the following collet chuck kit?
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/0/10921/Turners-Collet-Chuck-Set-2-MT.aspx

All comments are welcome. THX..

I'm also considering the following, but I don't know what extra's I'd have to get.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/0/28279/Expanding-Collet-Chuck-2-MT-Spindle.aspx

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/0/28276/Expanding-Collet-Chuck-1-x-8-tpi.aspx


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## jskeen (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok, what did we do with that horse?  

This has been kicked around here many times, but here's the readers digest version.  That first collet chuck uses a unique size of collet, so you will never be able to get any other sizes.  Also, you can't slide anything through the collet, so you're forever limited to the depth of the collet itself.  For about the same money you can get the psi version that screws onto a 1x8 arbor.  It uses industry standard ER32 collets, so you can get more in both standard and metric sizes lots of places.  It also allows you to slide the blank through the chuck and into the MT behind it, so that the collet is supporting the FRONT of the blank.  

The bottom two are special use chucks, usually used to hold things like pocket mirrors, jar lids, and other flat round items that have a specific size hole drilled into them.  They are not useful for pen related tasks that I know of.


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## mbroberg (Jun 14, 2010)

Mark,

This is the one I have, it is the same one that jskeen mentioned in his post.  I have never used any other so I can't compare, but I've never been sorry that I got this one.  I purchased some extra metric collets from 800 Watt on eBay.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCDOWEL.html


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## Mark (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks guys. I will check out the PSI collet.

I didn't want to hi-jack the other thread. Thx much.

UPDATE: Ordered the PSI kit. It's back ordered, so I'll just add it to my list of other B.O.'d items.

Thanks for your help.


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## PenMan1 (Jun 14, 2010)

A beall or psi chuck will very quickly become your best friend. I can't really remember how I made pens before having it. The only time my Beall chuck comes off the lathe when i turn a bowl.


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## MartinPens (Jun 15, 2010)

*beal chuck*



PenMan1 said:


> A beall or psi chuck will very quickly become your best friend. I can't really remember how I made pens before having it. The only time my Beall chuck comes off the lathe when i turn a bowl.




Ditto

Martin


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## Stango (Jun 15, 2010)

I dont have a collet chuck and I must be missing something.  What do you do with it?  Do you turn a square blank down to round using the centers then chuck the round blank?  Then what ?  just for drilling ?

Please educate me..... seems like I am missing something.

Thanks !


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## PenMan1 (Jun 15, 2010)

You can put a round blank in it to make custom designs (see "another way to make a pen" tutitorial in the library). 

You can put a mandrel through the 1/4 inch collet.

You can drill on the lathe without leaving marks on the blank.

You can put a dead center through the collet and quickly turn between centers.

Absolutely the BEST method I have found for holding closed end mandrels, etc.

The better question might be "what CAN'T" you do with a Beall or PSI collet chuck.


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## PenMan1 (Jun 15, 2010)

Mark said:


> Thanks guys. I will check out the PSI collet.
> 
> I didn't want to hi-jack the other thread. Thx much.
> 
> ...


 
Try the PSI resellers (woodenwhimsies, for one or Amazon. Sometimes Amazon has this set for $74.99 and free shipping).


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## Mark (Jun 15, 2010)

PenMan1 said:


> Try the PSI resellers (woodenwhimsies, for one or Amazon. Sometimes Amazon has this set for $74.99 and free shipping).



I'll check it out. Thx again everyone. I greatly appreciate all of the members here at the IAP. You Folks ROCK....


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## bgibb42 (Jun 15, 2010)

I think you made a great choice with the PSI chuck.  The one advantage of it over the Beall chuck is you can tighten the PSI chuck by hand instead of using the tommy bars, if you so desire.


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## RHossack (Jun 17, 2010)

jskeen said:


> Ok, what did we do with that horse?


I found it for you ...


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## Mark (Jun 17, 2010)

Thanks to all that Helped me make my decision. 

As for the dead horse, so be it. This thread was very helpful to me.


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## PenMan1 (Jun 17, 2010)

Mark:
This ain't the first "battered, dead horse" to ever show up here!


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## Russianwolf (Jun 17, 2010)

bgibb42 said:


> I think you made a great choice with the PSI chuck.  The one advantage of it over the Beall chuck is you can tighten the PSI chuck by hand instead of using the tommy bars, if you so desire.



from my limited experience, you hand tighten the Beall and it works fine. The tommy bars can be used to really cinch it down if needs be, but aren't needed

On the PSI, if you need to more than hand tighten.......


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## ldb2000 (Jun 17, 2010)

Russianwolf said:


> from my limited experience, you hand tighten the Beall and it works fine. The tommy bars can be used to really cinch it down if needs be, but aren't needed
> 
> *On the PSI, if you need to more than hand tighten......*.


 
The PSI  chuck comes with a set of tommy bars but due to the knurled surface of the chuck they are very seldom needed .


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## PenMan1 (Jun 27, 2010)

Russianwolf said:


> from my limited experience, you hand tighten the Beall and it works fine. The tommy bars can be used to really cinch it down if needs be, but aren't needed
> 
> On the PSI, if you need to more than hand tighten.......


 
Exactly why I spent the extra money on the Beall. I've very happy and have only used the tommy bars once with an odd sized blank.


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## RussFairfield (Jun 27, 2010)

The big advantage of the collet chucks is accuracy. The collet chuck will spin a mandrel within 0.001" runout. If you can do that with any other way of holding a mandrel, then you have the one in a million that is accurate.

Most of the other ways to hold a mandrel are somewhere between 0.005" and 0.010" , and that is a lot if you are trying to make a smooth transition between the fittings and the truned pen barrels. There was a time when we could sell a pen that had that much run out, but today's market demands a closer fit than that.


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## ldb2000 (Jun 27, 2010)

PenMan1 said:


> *Exactly why I spent the extra money on the Beall.* I've very happy and have only used the tommy bars once with an odd sized blank.


 
Ok , now I'm curious , why did you spend the extra money ?


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## PenMan1 (Jun 27, 2010)

ldb2000 said:


> Ok , now I'm curious , why did you spend the extra money ?


 
Part of the reason I spent the extra money is because of my backgound in the boat business. The old boat rule is that if two products look similar but the price is significantly different, the higher priced item is usually the one made from better materials (better grades of stainless), and will result in NOT having to buy the cheap one several times.

When I was shopping for collet chucks (before I knew that the collets were er32), Beall had all the 1/16 sizes available that I thought I would use (and sometimes) actually DO use. I picked up the phone and called Beall and got a pleasant and informed human on the phone. They told me the tommy bars were included, but usually not really necessary. Very nice people on the phone. 

Given my experience with PSI (not good - in fact, I only buy the things that I can't get somewhere else, and with the "PSI Resellers" that IMHO put PSI to shame, I now buy ONLY two products from PSI, India made cheap pouches, and Chinese made display boxes with glass windows) I chose to deal with the company that actually WANTS my business!

FWIW, my neighbor, the NEAT FREAK, owns the PSI collet chuck and actually perfers the BEALL. He says the threads are much smoother and
and the fit is "exact" (his words) straight across with no indents and no knurling to clean with the tooth brush.

Having used BOTH chucks and knowing that the beall money is going to American penturner that saw a need and filled it to the best of his ability, TODAY, I WOULD MAKE THE SAME DECISION. 


You get what you pay for----IF YOU ARE LCUKY.


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## ldb2000 (Jun 27, 2010)

Well after 3 years of solid use the PSI is showing no sign of wear or fatigue , still threads as smoothly as the day I first bought it and grips as tightly as it did out of the box . 
After 36 years in the automotive electronics industry I also know that a quality tool is imperative , and after extensive research I could not find a single reason , when it came quality to spend twice the money and only receive half the tool . For the same price , the PSI chuck came with the basic starter set of collets which enabled me to start using the chuck the day it was delivered . I do not have unlimited funds and if I had spent the money on the Beall I would have had no collets to use in it for quite some time . 
Since I had asked many questions and read all the reviews on the PSI I knew that the chuck came with the tommy bars . I recently had the chance to use the Beall at a friends house and found the smooth surface of the chuck much harder to get a grip when trying to tighten the chuck tightly enough to turn some aluminum and had to resort to using the wrenches while with the Knurled grip on the PSI chuck I can very easily grip the chuck body to get a very tight grip on the work piece .
Sometimes you just pay extra for the name , then pay again for the tool to be useful . Both the Beall and the PSI are both quality tools and will give many years of fine service so the bottom line is value .


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## Texatdurango (Jun 27, 2010)

Two comments,

*First*, Mark, in my opinion you did well choosing the collet chuck from PSI! I have the Beall chuck and also have two other morse taper collet chucks I bought from Ebay, both "Cheap" imports.

The odd thing is that the knurled screw on top from one of the "Cheap imports" has the same threads as my Beall chuck so I use it instead of the smooth Beall top. 

Like Butch, I find that using the knurled top I can amply tighten the chuck without any tools and the Beall smooth lid was harder to tighten with just my hands so it's top sits in a drawer somewhere! I generally agree that "you get what you pay for" but in this case, my cheap imports are just as good (actually better) as my expensive Beall chuck!

*Second*, In my opinion, to those who think it's cute to bring up the "beating a dead horse" or post that rediculous dead horse cartoon, it's not only about as rude as you can get, it's inappropriate and totally uncalled for! 

Did you notice that Mark has only been around since late last year? Was any thought given to the fact that perhaps he had not seen any of the previous collet chuck discussions?

The way I see it, if you open a thread that is discussion something that you consider to have been discussed to death already then simply CLOSE THE THREAD AND MOVE ON......no need for the inapropriate comments and stupid cartoon on your way out.

In this case, it's a good thing others ignored you as Mark was given some good advice and opinions and wound up making a good decision which differed from his original thoughts.


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## EBorraga (Jun 27, 2010)

Thanks for a lot of the responses. I have debating for a few months on which one to buy also. I appreciate all the comments and critiques and it makes my decision easier to make.


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## PenMan1 (Jun 27, 2010)

One of the greatest things about this forum is that sometimes we disagree while at the same time agree. Reading back through the posts here, everyone concurs that a collet chuck is the most accurate of the available options. Some prefer the Psi while others prefer the beall. In almost every case, posters acknowledge that both products are excellent and either will do a very good job.

Perhaps this is similar to trying to convince a Ford racing fan that Chevy 's are better, or vise versa? The important thing is that Mark got excellent information and got to see both sides of a debate. He should be able to make a decision that will be right for him.


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## Russianwolf (Jun 28, 2010)

PenMan1 said:


> Having used BOTH chucks and knowing that the beall money is going to American penturner that saw a need and filled it to the best of his ability, TODAY, I WOULD MAKE THE SAME DECISION.
> 
> 
> You get what you pay for----IF YOU ARE LCUKY.



And that right there makes it worth even more to me. If we don't support our own, we may as well just sell everything now.


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## Texatdurango (Jun 28, 2010)

Russianwolf said:


> And that right there makes it worth even more to me. If we don't support our own, we may as well just sell everything now.


Since it's been brought up twice, are we 100% certain that the Beall tool company does indeed make their tools in the states or did they just design the tools then have them outsourced overseas? Nothing on their website indicates either way.

In this international community we live in these days when an "American" Chevy truck is assembled in Mexico factory and a "German" BMW is assembled in South Carolina factory, it gets kinda hard to know how to "_support our own_", or at least for me it does.

Personally, I buy tools to perform a particular task and usually their place of origin is irrelivant as long as they are good quality.


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## PenMan1 (Jun 28, 2010)

Texatdurango said:


> Since it's been brought up twice, are we 100% certain that the Beall tool company does indeed make their tools in the states or did they just design the tools then have them outsourced overseas? Nothing on their website indicates either way.
> 
> In this international community we live in these days when an "American" Chevy truck is assembled in Mexico factory and a "German" BMW is assembled in South Carolina factory, it gets kinda hard to know how to "_support our own_", or at least for me it does.


 

Right on the mark, George! It is my understand (and this may not even be correct anymore) that the Beall HOLDER is made in the U.S., but I am certain that the collets come from China.

With that said, China is kinda like a "sugar daddy" to the U.S. As much as I don't like buying products from China, maybe I should give them more respect. After all, China is one of the very few countries willing to underwrite the U.S. Debt. 

It really is a global economy today, but you can't really hold it against on old fellow who really liked it when America was the top dog.


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## phillywood (Jun 28, 2010)

Texatdurango said:


> Two comments,
> 
> *First*, Mark, in my opinion you did well choosing the collet chuck from PSI! I have the Beall chuck and also have two other Morse taper collet chucks I bought from EBay, both "Cheap" imports.
> 
> ...


 

Dang, If you guys made those comments for Mark,, then God knows what you guys gonna do when I start throwing my Qsns. around here?
Plus, George is right and i add that even though this subject was previously discussed by now more people here have tried their products and more use have been taken by those tools, therefore, More realistic respond would be rendered to that Qsn.
I think I have to wait and see what type of beating I have to take for my qsn.s, huh?


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## Russianwolf (Jun 28, 2010)

I emailed Beall, we'll see what they say.

Neither here nor there, but

The thing is, a Global Economy, like other economic models isn't perfect. 

For instance, Global Economy says that you Export what you are best at and Import everything else. (basically). Problem is, If you specialize in rice and depend on your exports of it for your economy, a drought kills you (rice prices have more than doubled in the last couple years due to the "Rice Bowl" having low yields).

Don't know about you, but I was taught to diversify my "investments" in case one tanked.

Admitted it is getting confusing about "what is a domestic" these days in a lot of areas. But, final assembly aside, you need to look at how many American jobs are under the hat. If it's assembled in Mexico, but most of the sub-assemblies are US then it's a mostly American product. If most of the jobs have been shipped overseas, then I don't count them as a Domestic any more.


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## Rick_G (Jun 28, 2010)

Only one negative comment about the Beall.  Be carfull with it I've cut myself on the threads more than once.  They are sharp.  I've started wearing gloves.  Finger slides on the exposed threads when turning the cap and you get blood on your lathe.  It's a great chuck and I wouldn't be without it now that I have one.


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## Russianwolf (Jun 28, 2010)

Word from Beall. The Chuck body is made in Ohio. Collets are from China if you get them from them. US made collets available for about $35 each.


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## Russianwolf (Jun 28, 2010)

Rick_G said:


> Only one negative comment about the Beall.  Be carfull with it I've cut myself on the threads more than once.  They are sharp.  I've started wearing gloves.  Finger slides on the exposed threads when turning the cap and you get blood on your lathe.  It's a great chuck and I wouldn't be without it now that I have one.



I had that problem on another tool. 

Take some 400 grit sandpaper and hit those knife edges to dull them a bit. doesn't effect the tool at all, just makes its bite hurt a little less.


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## discdogs (Jun 30, 2010)

Thanks for the discussion guys. I did a search for "drill lathe" and this was one of the first threads that came up that seemed specifically relevant. I don't have a drill press and plan to drill on my lathe. I'm going to look into each item, PSI or Beall (sp?) and buy one or the other. Got a little off track after page 1.

Lynn (a girl in the woodshop...oh my!)


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