# CA and Jet Mini



## Larry Gottlieb (Mar 4, 2008)

Does the non-variable speed jet minilathe turn slowly enough (on lowest speed) to apply CA finish without spletter?

Larry


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## wood-of-1kind (Mar 4, 2008)

Quick answer, YES. Low speed @ 500 RPM will be fine.


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## Hello (Mar 4, 2008)

I apply at over 1800 rmp and never have splatter....are you applying to thick?


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## Larry Gottlieb (Mar 4, 2008)

I have a variable speed Nova and apply thin CA at a low speed.
I was asking for a friend, new to turning, and interested in using CA.
Thank you

Larry


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## wendell (Mar 4, 2008)

I apply my CA finish at 1800 rpm on a Jet 1220.  I only have problems with spatter if I apply too much glue for one coat.  

Wendell


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## stevers (Mar 4, 2008)

I use a fairly fast speed to apply CA/BLO and don't have a problem with splatter. It shouldn't be a problem for you. Good luck and have fun.


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## Sfolivier (Mar 5, 2008)

I apply CA at about 1500 RPM and I manage not to get anything splattering. It should be completely fine.


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## Chasper (Mar 5, 2008)

I apply CA at 2850 (or whatever the second fastest speed is)  Occasionally I get a splatter when I pour it on to fast, but that is becoming increasingly rare.  I started doing it fast because I'm too lazy to change the belts, but after trying out the slower speeds I find that I more consistently get good finishes the first time at higher speed.  I almost never need accelerator, at high speed the paper towel accelerates the CA very quickly.  No accelerator means no need to use sand paper and I can go directly to MM.  No sand paper means no risk of sanding through the CA and needing to start over.


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## darrenjttu (Mar 5, 2008)

I use a higher speed and never have a problem.


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## rherrell (Mar 5, 2008)

WOW! Crazy fast for me. 400 is more my speed.[8D]


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## negid (Mar 5, 2008)

I'm just like Chasper. I apply my CA using a paper towel at the next to highest speed on my Jet Mini. I only get a small amount of splatter when I use thick CA. And that is only when I get too much on the paper towel.


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## monkeynutz (Mar 11, 2008)

A noob question here...  I have been applying CA off the lathe, and then sanding out the drips.  Been wanting to try doing it on the lathe at speed for a more uniform coat, but am wary of gluing my blanks and bushings together, or worse yet, to the mandrel.  I'm sure you guys have a way to prevent this, so I hope you will let me in on it.  Thanks.


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## igran7 (Mar 11, 2008)

I apply CA at around 400 RPM.  Two coats thin, two coats medium and accelerate (light spritz) in between. No splatter what so ever. MM to 12,000 grit finish with a coat of Novus and I'm done in less than 5 minutes.


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## negid (Mar 11, 2008)

> _Originally posted by monkeynutz_
> 
> A noob question here...  I have been applying CA off the lathe, and then sanding out the drips.  Been wanting to try doing it on the lathe at speed for a more uniform coat, but am wary of gluing my blanks and bushings together, or worse yet, to the mandrel.  I'm sure you guys have a way to prevent this, so I hope you will let me in on it.  Thanks.



I've been doing CA finishes since I started penturning about 3 months ago. I've never had a problem with gluing my bushings to the piece or to the mandrel. Just use small amounts of CA (2 drops or so) and you shouldn't really have much of a problem.


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## loglugger (Mar 11, 2008)

> _Originally posted by monkeynutz_
> 
> A noob question here...  I have been applying CA off the lathe, and then sanding out the drips.  Been wanting to try doing it on the lathe at speed for a more uniform coat, but am wary of gluing my blanks and bushings together, or worse yet, to the mandrel.  I'm sure you guys have a way to prevent this, so I hope you will let me in on it.  Thanks.



I use Johnson paste wax on the mandrel and bushings to keep the glue from sticking. 
Bob


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## jtate (Mar 11, 2008)

I've glued parts to the mandrel before.  All I can say is that it's good that we do this craft in privacy because, if any one had seen me do this, I would have been very embarassed!  Of course, you never know that you've done it till the parts are all done and finished and looking nice.  Then you can't get them off the mandrell!  Ugh!

Then you have to get the part off the mandrel and I've never succeeded in getting it off without sacrificing the part.  I've heard that you can place the mandrel loosely and vertically in the vise with the bushing against the upper, horizontal surface of the vise then tape the top end of the mandrel till you break ther bond between the mandrel and the glue.


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## gerryr (Mar 11, 2008)

The best way to keep from gluing the blank to the bushings is to apply the CA to a paper towel and then apply the paper towel to the blank, especially with thin CA.

I apply CA with my Jet on the second lowest speed.  3-4 drops of thin CA on a folded up piece of paper towel is plenty for two pen barrels.


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## monkeynutz (Mar 11, 2008)

OK, tried the CA on the lathe today with pretty good success.  Did 2 zebrawood slimlines.  Used the paste wax on the mandrel and the bushings.  On one set of blanks, I did get the blanks glued to the bushings, but not the mandrel.  Bushings snapped off the blanks no problem.

I ended up using 4 coats of thin CA, applied with one of those stitched cotton pads the makeup artists use.  Works good for the thin CA, but the medium CA left me with cotton glued to the piece, so had to sand it out and start over.  I'll try paper towel for the medium CA next time.  Sanded last coat of CA to 600 grit, then MM to 12000, then a quick friction polish and buffed out with a rag.  Looks about 2 inches thick, and beautiful.

Do y'all sand or otherwise treat between CA coats?  If so, with what?


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## gerryr (Mar 11, 2008)

Forget medium CA, it sets much too fast.  I use only thin and thick.  

Some people sand between coats of CA, I don't, unless a coat develops really bad ridges.


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