# Video for Wood Turners Finish?



## Allen_B (Apr 3, 2014)

I am looking for different techniques on how to use Woodturners Finish. I can't find any in the Library here on the forum or anywhere else. I was needing some guidance on this. I dont really get any help from reading tutorials and trying those techniques. Any help would be appreciated. I'm more of a see it then do it and not read it then do it kind of guy.

I apply it after I've sanded to 600 grit. I put about 7 thin coats on the blank and let it dry for almost two minutes between coats. Then I use MM starting at 600 and this is where it falls apart. The blank looks like its covered in milk. Am I sanding too long and too hard with the MM?


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## bgio13 (Apr 3, 2014)

Try this video from Exotic Blanks, hopefully it will help a little,

Bill

Pen finishing.mp4 - YouTube


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## Allen_B (Apr 3, 2014)

Bill, thanks for the link. I've watched that video 4 times now and one of the resons why I bought the finish. By the way, Ed is a pleasure to deal with.

I was really looking for a video showing the sanding steps with MM. Wet or dry? I basically tried to sand it like I would a CA finish and I bombed on it.

On a side note: Bill your avatar looks like it would be painful....LOL.


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## Jim Burr (Apr 3, 2014)

What techniques have you tried Allen? With limited experience in hand, it seems to be a straight forward finish with 2-3 opportunities for application. What's your experience been?


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## Allen_B (Apr 3, 2014)

Jim Burr said:


> What techniques have you tried Allen? With limited experience in hand, it seems to be a straight forward finish with 2-3 opportunities for application. What's your experience been?



I bought it because it was a straight forward finish and no fumes. I apply 7 coats and then let dry for about 10 minutes on the lathe and "try" to smooth it out with 600 MM and it gets super cloudy. I thought it might get better by going up to 12000, but no luck.

I also just tried decking it down with 800 MM and same thing after 7 coats. They are all thin coats. 2 drops on the blank. I basically want the smoothness of the 12000 MM. I don't have a buffer.

For some reason I just can't get it right.


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## DWulf (Apr 3, 2014)

Allen, your problem might be that you're micromeshing too soon after application. If I remember correctly, WTF needs to "cure" for a day after application. You also might not need to start at the lower grits once you start micromeshing. I'm still experimenting with how I apply WTF but my current process is to sand at least to 600 grit, wipe down with DNA, then I apply 10 light coats, waiting a minute in between coats, then I switch to a dfferent blank, do 10 coats, then switch back to the first and apply another 10 light coats. So in total I have 20 coats on the blank. I then let it sit for at least 24 hours before I start micromeshing, and I actually start at 3600 or 4000 on the micromesh, and go up through 12,000. I also don't spend very long on each grit because I don't want to burn through the WTF. YMMV, but that's worked really well for me so far.


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## bgio13 (Apr 3, 2014)

Did a search for wood turners finish and found a couple of these threads on applying the finish, but no more videos. If I'm understanding you correctly you are sanding after the last coat dries after 2 minutes. I would let it cure overnight and maybe start sanding with 1500 MM. I think starting at 600 you are sanding all the finish off, hope this helps,

Bill

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/general-wood-turners-finish-techniques-100762/
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/wtf-update-115048/
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/wood-turners-finish-vs-ca-120729/


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## monophoto (Apr 3, 2014)

I've never used WTF, but I have used water-based poly floor finish (which according to the video, is what WTF really is).

What others have said is very true - it does dry quickly, but you need to let it cure thoroughly before buffing.  And if you want to sand the finished piece as part of a polishing routine, sand very lightly with fine-grit paper.  The stuff really will polish beautifully, but if you sand too soon, or rub too hard, it will 'pill' off.


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## Jim Burr (Apr 3, 2014)

Allen_B said:


> Jim Burr said:
> 
> 
> > What techniques have you tried Allen? With limited experience in hand, it seems to be a straight forward finish with 2-3 opportunities for application. What's your experience been?
> ...


 
Ok...let's go with that. WTF is very different from CA or WOP. What can't you get right? Are you looking for a specific type, gloss, sheen, durability?


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## Allen_B (Apr 3, 2014)

Jim Burr said:


> Allen_B said:
> 
> 
> > Jim Burr said:
> ...



Im just wanting a nice finish. Not too glossy and not too dull. I think Im not waiting long enough for it to dry because im used to a CA finish. I tested the WTF on an ebony blank and it turned white when I was micro meshing with 600. You couldnt even tell what kind of wood was under the finish after every try.

Ill do another blank and let it sit overnight and try starting with 3200 MM instead of 600.


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## ed4copies (Apr 3, 2014)

General Finishes has a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AmqGiHTS3w8

Not a pen, but his method seems closer to yours.

I believe it is best to let any finish cure before sanding---but this demonstrator shows sanding right away---YMMV!!!


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## KenV (Apr 3, 2014)

I use mineral spirits when I wet sand over WTF --  wet sanding with micromesh seems to keep things working better.   

WTF works nicely as a sanding sealer with wet sanding - and can be followed up with other finishes if desired - or additional coats of WTF.   

Sanding sealer uses benefit from a longer cure time (a few hours or overnight) because it does wick into end grain or mixed grain.  I use it with bowls and soft grain to get the end grain tear out removed and it really soaks into bowl end grain.


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## Deadhead (Apr 3, 2014)

I have tweeked my process a little more since the WTF update. I now apply WTF lengthwise with the lathe off, then turn it on for 1 minute (I started using a hair dryer on low this winter to help the drying between coats) for ten coats. Instead of 1200 grit paper I'm using a 1000 grit Abralon pad that Barry Gross sells; I sand the blank lengthwise off the lathe. I then apply another 10 coats as above. After letting the blanks sit 4 or 5 days; I sand off the lathe first with the 1000 grit Abralon then the 2000, then the 4000. I put the blank(s) back on the lathe. and use the Barry Gross scratch remover (I think its Huts plastic pen polish, just my opinion). Then I buff it with the Barry Gross two wheel buff. To "speed" things up; I also started using the white non-stick bushings on a mandrel so I can do two blanks at a time.

I get a very glossy/glass finish using this method.


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## Band Saw Box (Apr 4, 2014)

Allen I only use WTF and so far I have no had any problems. I finish my blanks like this. I sand the blank to 12000 mm,  with my lathe turning at 700 RPM I put 5 drops of WTF on a 12ga.shot gun cleaning patch (I fold the blank in half) I apply it lenght wise one time. I wait 1 minute a apply another coat using a new area of the patch. I put on costs this way. I wait 2 minutes snd sand with 3600 mm, then apply 7 more coats. I then wait 15 minutes to over night then polish from 6000 to 12000mm.  One more thing I wash and dry the shot gun cleaning patch they seam to hold the WTF better.  I hope this helps.


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## Allen_B (Apr 5, 2014)

Guys, I really appreciate your help with this. I'll try these and see which one works best for me. I love making pens and giving them away, but I want them to look nice and as flawless as possible.


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## Jim Burr (Apr 5, 2014)

If you do the finish correctly...any finish for that matter, there really isn't a need to go to 12,000. 6k works really well.


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