# Electrolysis - Removing the RUST!



## yort81 (Aug 14, 2012)

After much reading on the internet about Electrolysis for removing rust...I have finally assembled all the parts for my tank and have done my first test... before i start dunking my metal lathe, for restoration.

This is a chuck from an OLD hand cranked brace that was in my father in law's shed.  And to say the least...I am amazed at the transformation....  30 minutes in the tank and two minutes with a green scrubby to get the oxide off... and Ta' Daaaahhh!   Im excited to get started on the lathe tomorrow!


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## thewishman (Aug 14, 2012)

Looks good - and effective.


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## Curly (Aug 14, 2012)

Remember to fully disassemble the parts. In other words don't put gearboxes and bearings etc in like you did with the brace chuck. You can't be sure you have all the liquids out of the nooks and crannies so the corroding starts anew. 

Pete

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner because I can't reach my desktop!


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## Glen Schumann (Aug 14, 2012)

Looks impressive. If you don't mind sharing, what was required to accomplish this transformation and how much was the investment?  Thanks.


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## yort81 (Aug 14, 2012)

Glen Schumann said:


> Looks impressive. If you don't mind sharing, what was required to accomplish this transformation and how much was the investment?  Thanks.




Hi Glen,

$6  Rebar (there are six)
$3  Orange Homer Bucket (i have several already...)
$3  Large box of Armor Hammer Super Washing Soda
$3  For six U-bolts to hold the rebar
$0  For the battery charger ~ i had it already too
$15 total

and OMG... this thing strips paint... even in the NON rusty areas like no bodies business....   Electrolysis Rocks...I'll post some pictures later this evening of what ive got going so far!

Pete...you are right! ... as soon as it comes out of the tank... i blow it dry it then i either primer it or oil it very well


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## lago (Aug 14, 2012)

I did the same thing about 3 years ago on a Delta 8" jointer.  I totally disassembled it and still had to use a 50gal garbage can for the infeed and outfeed tables.  Got it all stripped down and painted.  I got it for $30 as scrap metal and spend another $30 or 40 for paint and other stuff.

It worked a lot better than I thought it would.  

Lago


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## PTsideshow (Aug 14, 2012)

One big big thing some of the idiots on the web forget to mention is that during the process you are generating hydrogen gas! do it under cover out side and be mindful of turning off the juice to the charger or other source of power. Before rearranging the part or what you are using a sacrificial metal (rebar). 




before and after




Set up before water and washing soda
The process is line of site. So having the rebar on the bottom and the item on wood slats, in addition to around the sides. will speed up the process.




Under way the foam bubbles will contain the hydrogen gas, had a idiot neighbor stop by and moved one of the clamps and it sparked and conditions were right for a nice loud pop and flash. He hasn't been back to ask me to fix anything since! :wink:




The rebar after 12/16 hours of working.




The same rebar after washing the crud off good to go till they are thin down to little wires of themselves.

Something to consider in choosing a container to use, NO METAL. Make sure it is strong enough to hold the water weight about 8 pounds per gallon. You can see what happens to the storage bins. Also you want to be able to cover the item.





I have since gotten a 40 gallon stock water tank from Tractor Supply with a nice thick wall and rim. I am planing on putting a plastic drain valve in it so I can run a hose to the side of the drive. to drain the sludge and rust off.

 You must have the NEGATIVE LEAD CABLE connected to item being cleaned! The POSITIVE LEAD CABLE connected to grid of sacrificial electrodes. This is very important if they are reversed you will rust the item.

Here are a couple of the best sites for info on the web.
Rust removal by electrolysis

Rust Removal by Electrolysis - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

ELECTROLYTIC RUST REMOVAL (ELECTROLYSIS)

Reverse Electrolysis - Perfect Patina      this is the reverse of the process adding rust yes it works.

Be safe think and do not do this in an enclosed space or garage or attached garage! Depending on the amount of soda used and the power inputed into the tank a large amount of hydrogen gas can be generated or so I have been told. In an enclosed space over night you can have a rude awakening! :wink:
And what were the rims for?




80 pound hold downs for the shade canopy on the drive in front of the shop.
:clown:


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## yort81 (Aug 15, 2012)

Glen... Those are FANTASTIC pictures... and every one of your links... with the exception of one... is exactly where i got my information :~) ( and a couple of YouTube links too)  

Your First blue tube looks exactly how i did mine with the exception that i drilled my Homer bucked and used U~bolts to hold the rebar in place...then I used some 14 gauge wire and connectors to connect the U-Bolts/Rebar together 

Here are some pictures of my First (of two) Lathe "Foot" that took a dunk today..... 3 hours and 45 minutes, and two quick brass wire brushings inbetween to get the loose big stuff off ... and Ta Daaaaaahhh   the before and the after!


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## Curly (Aug 15, 2012)

Can I ask what lathe you are resurrecting? That base looks a little like the ones from a Hercus I have.


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## PTsideshow (Aug 15, 2012)

Yort81, glad you got the correct info the first time around. It seems like the net is going through the nasty mean people phase sometimes with postings of things that have important info, or bits of info missing.

Like you said it will remove rust, crud, and most paints. Heavy crud or grease build up, might need to be scraped. high dissolved crud in the water can slow down process, plus it does make a bigger mess disposing of the spent electrolytic. It will also loosen some frozen nuts and bolts. 

It doesn't work on everything or every type of coating. and you can make your rig as fancy or simple as you want. It will save time and frees you up to do other stuff.
:clown:


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## yort81 (Aug 15, 2012)

Glen...you are absolutely CORRECT   Dude.... where were you when i was trying to sift through all that garbage on the net?????:tongue::tongue::tongue:

Curly/Pete.... I am rebuilding a South Bend 9A - 3.5 foot bed.... (i do believe the Hurcus lathe is an Identical twin from a different set of parents.....):biggrin:

The Second Foot takes a dunk today....  it's sad to say... that i will have to "Mr Muscle" the Bed to get all the paint and garbage off.. dang it! (it's just too big for any tank that i can come up with in the time and resources that i have)

Troy


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## PTsideshow (Aug 15, 2012)

yort81 said:


> Glen...you are absolutely CORRECT   Dude.... where were you when i was trying to sift through all that garbage on the net?????:tongue::tongue::tongue:
> The Second Foot takes a dunk today....  it's sad to say... that i will  have to "Mr Muscle" the Bed to get all the paint and garbage off.. dang  it! (it's just too big for any tank that i can come up with in the time  and resources that i have)
> 
> Troy


Being fairly new to the site and pen turning didn't really cross what little mind I have left that a mention of it would be of general interest:wink:

Well a great temporary tank can be assemble from the pallet wood or 2x6"s lined with a blue trap just make sure that the item is off the bottom on wood blocks 2x2"s work well or even 1x1's and then you can lay a couple of rebars on the bottom and do it all in one shot with out a lot of moving the scrap iron around to get all sides. 

Just remember the rebar can't touch the item being cleaned. When you get done you just take the frame apart. The blue trap and the sludge can be rolled up and garbage bagged if you like.

Another trick I learned when there is a hollow that need to be cleaned a piece of pipe section hooked to the positive electrodes set up as long as it isn't touching the item it will work. as it does all the sides at once with a larger coverage area.
:clown:


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## JMCU (Aug 15, 2012)

I need to free up some barn door hinges which were burned and are now frozen with rust.  I wonder if this would penetrate to the hinge pin.


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## PTsideshow (Aug 15, 2012)

JMCU said:


> I need to free up some barn door hinges which were burned and are now frozen with rust.  I wonder if this would penetrate to the hinge pin.



If they will fit in a 5 gallon bucket or in one of those under the bed storage plastic boxes. You should be able to do a couple at a time if you have some electrodes on the bottom put some wood block in and put the hinges on the blocks cover with the washing soda and water. Hook up the battery charger and let bubble for a couple hours. Remove and try working the two parts. Replace in solution and do for a couple more and repeat. Due to the fact that the process will have a harder and take longer getting in to the hinge pin areas it should work just may take a little longer. 

A copper wire clipped to each item and then to the negative cable, with the electrodes to the positive cable below and around the items.

You can use all most anything that is ferrous for the sacrificial electrodes re bar is the best as it has a larger surface area with the raised sections on it and the dia. I have used paving reenforcing grid it doesn't last long for the cost of a 5x10' section, same with chainlink fencing unless it is free. People use plate sections as that gives a wide area of the process, it depends on what you have and want to use.

Just remember hydrogen gas is generated so out side under cover is best and no smoking! Unless you want to do a reenactment of the Hindenburg :doctor:

:clown:


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## JMCU (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks, I'll give it try,  Sure would beat grinding the pins off driving them out.


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## PTsideshow (Aug 15, 2012)

JMCU said:


> Thanks, I'll give it try,  Sure would beat grinding the pins off driving them out.


Should loosen them up and then even if you have to soak them in ATF fluid and acetone mix 50/50 one of the better home made rust looseners. It may take a little work, but a couple of nights in the rust loose and working them back and forth it should be ready to wash them in acetone and pat dry in prepping to prime and paint.
:clown:


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## Culprit (Aug 16, 2012)

JMCU said:


> I need to free up some barn door hinges which were burned and are now frozen with rust.  I wonder if this would penetrate to the hinge pin.



Electrolysis works great, but for the hinge pins, I recommend submerging them in a bucket of Evap-o-rust.  They sell it by the gallon at Tractor Supply and Harbor Freight.  Tractor Supply is cheaper where I live.


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## JMCU (Aug 16, 2012)

Thanks to all, TS is close by and I apologize to everyone about hyjacking the thread.


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## PTsideshow (Aug 16, 2012)

Don't think it mattered much as it was all good, and in the same area of work/questioning! People that might have had a question but for what ever reasons never seem to ask them may have gotten an answer.
:clown:


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## yort81 (Aug 16, 2012)

JMCU said:


> Thanks to all, TS is close by and I apologize to everyone about hyjacking the thread.



JM... Dont worry a bit... we are all trying to learn from other's experiences... and your questions could be someone else's thoughts too


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## yort81 (Aug 20, 2012)

Here is one of the lathe foot in the tank... parts are taking about 3 hours to get the paint striped... and the rust gone...Im not sure if you can see the bubbles and the ever so slight water current in the tank... but... Im liking this process A LOT!


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## PTsideshow (Aug 21, 2012)

Speaking of larger objects here is a photo essay of a trailer frame being down and the mention of doing a lathe!  Rust removal by electrolysis on a trailer frame
:clown:


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