# Turning a bowl using the Nova G3 Chuck



## Band Saw Box

I want to try to make a bowl and use my Nova G3 chuck. It came with a worm screw so starting is not a problem, how ever I'm not sure how to form the tenon to hold the blank in the chuck can anyone help me with this. Thanks


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## mark james

Hi Dan, I know many will chime in...

I believe you have the Carbide Tools, so simply tru the tailstock side round, and cut the tenon from there.  Use calipers, measure the size you need for the chuck, 2/3 closed, but enough you could still tightedn it if the wood compresses.  Leave a slight indent for the jaws (forgot the term???)

This will mean that the headstock side will be turned for the hollow end (U knew that).

Have fun


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## Charlie_W

Dan, 
Most important!...your tenon will need to match the jaws. A straight tenon for serrated jaws or a dovetailed tenon for dovetail jaws.
A parting tool is good to cut the tenon to cut the tenon for straight sides.
A skew is about the right shape to form the tenon for dovetail jaws when you cut straight in ..in scraper mode.
Make sure the tenon does not bottom out in he jaws. It should contact toe top of he jaws as well as being held in the jaws.

I can send you a pic later if you like.

Hope this helps.


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## mhbeauford

My process, turn the outside shape and leave about 1/4 in for small bowls or 3/8 for larger. Size the tenon for your chuck to grip, put about a 10 deg dovetail taper on the tenon and make sure the face the chuck jaws will contact is very flat. Also using the tail stock with a center, contact the bottom to make a center spot. I usually cut the dovetail shape with a 1/2 skew laid flat like a scraper. Reverse and grip with the chuck, turn inside and true up outside and sand everything you can get to. Reverse ona jam chuck using the tail stock center on the previously marked spot. remove the tenon down to about 1/2 - 3/8 in. Slightly concave the bottom up to the remaining part on the tenon. Remove from lathe, cut off the remaining piece with a chisel and sand bottom. Ready to finish.

I usually start by turning between centers using a spur drive, on rough log section bla nks I can make minor adjustments where the tail stock is located to give the best shape. This especially useful when turning natural edged bowls.  For larger bowls I drill a shallow hole the same diameter as the spur and place the spur in it, this helps hold the spur in place and is a safety factor as the spur can't slip out. I turn bowls and platters up to about 20 in rough blanks, as I have a 3520 B.

I have an assortment of jam chucks for bowls, platters and vases. I make them by using 2 in thick pecan, or other hardwood cut into about 5 in circles that are drilled and tapped to fit the headstock threads. Screw it on the head stock and true up both sides as appropriate. I the glue and stack circles of 3/4 MDF up to the height I wans and use the tail stock to clamp and let dry. When dry true up. I also hollow mine so I can use them on vases that have a small neck or taper in at the top. This cheap and easy and you can make a variety of sizes and shapes. You can even part off the old stack and put a new stack when they are used up or no longer useful. I reshape the end if necessary to fit my current need.

I use an air powered drill to power sand, with 2 in disks, it will clean up the bottom real quick.  On larger bowls power sanding on the lathe is much faster than hand sanding on the lathe.


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## mark james

Also, Check out U-Tube.

Some very good tutorials (i.e., Carl Jacobson).

I like pictures!


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## nativewooder

I would suggest that you use some scrap pieces to practice making a tenon.  Practice doesn't make perfect, but it helps make "better" in anything!


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## KenV

Dan,

Time to get to know a bowl turner.   AAW chapters abound on the east coast.  

The cuts are into face-grain then end grain repeating twice for each revolution.  There are some tools that are dangerous to use with alternative grain orientation.  

Do not be afraid to take a class.  It will reinforce safety as well as process.


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## low_48

The face where the tenon meets the bowl is just as important as the tenon. It needs to be flat, and no radii at the intersection. Don't bottom the tenon in the chuck. It needs to register on the tenon and the face at the bottom of the bowl.


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## tomas

I generally use a mortise rather than a tenon.  Why?  Because I took a class and that's how the instructor did it.  I think either would work.

Tomas


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## Band Saw Box

Thanks for all the great tips, I'm going to look at YouTube to try and learn some more. I may also check into getting  a set of step jaws. And I know I'll just try making a bowl.


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## Jim Burr

Wood Turning A Bowl : Wood Turning a Bowl: Cut the Tenon - YouTube
Wood Turning a Dried Bowl Blank : Wood Turning: Round the Tenon - YouTube
Wood Turning A Bowl : Wood Turning a Bowl: Prepare Tenon for Chuck - YouTube

Tenon cutting is best learned by watching, not talking. A dovetail gouge will go miles in getting the job done safely and correctly. You didn't mention which of the tenons, inside/outside, you were going to make. Turn between centers and avoid the worm screw all together.
Also look up "removing a bowl tenon" while you're on Youtube...once it's there, you need to get it off.


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## edstreet

Innies.






outies, just the right length.





ring mounts (can be used on both sides fyi)










outties to thick on bad/problem areas.





small outties in super good wood.










and lastly anywhere you can find room






Oh and 100% skew work.


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## Fay Prozora

I'm glad I happened on this thread as I want to learn this stuff too. I just got a barracuda 2 chuck system that came with 4 sets of jaws and the worm screw which I had no idea what it was until I saw some thing on a vid last night about using it. A couple of days ago I tried doing some inside gouging with my new bowl gouger and the wood was in the chuck and it popped off and went flying over my head but it's a blessing I did not get hurt. I was just standing there wondering what that loud pop was and here was the lathe running with no wood on it...So I guess right now until I can get into a class or get a mentor or watch more vids... I'll stay with the pens and other small things. Thanks for all the information... Fay


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## SteveG

Fay...That flying projectile was your wake up call. 

So I hope you are paying attention. So often a turner will mention something like: "If I were just 6 inches to the left...", or, "If I were standing where I usually do...", and then recount how much more of a disaster it MIGHT have been. Turning pens can lull a new turner a bit, because a flying pen part typically has potential for much less damage than, say, a medium sized bowl blank. So please be sure of your equipment, procedures and lathe speed and all related safety procedures. That way you can expect to stay "Good Lookin'" (as I have over all these years), and retain your eye sight, limbs and digits, and not have to fear some unsightly chunk of wood impaled into some part of your body. 

Just a thought. :biggrin:


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## jjjaworski

Watching videos and reading articles does provide lots of good information but nothing beats a hands on experience.

If you have a Woodcraft nearby check out the classes they run  OR ( as someone else suggested ) find a local AAW Chapter and attend a meeting or two. The ones I have belonged to have been a great source of information and they generally do demos at meetings.

Proper tool technique and chucking are best learned in a hands on teaching environment. There are several different options on how to turn bowls just like pens or anything else handmade.

Just my opinion, for what it is worth.


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## kovalcik

If you are going to turn bowls (or anything bigger than a pen), make sure you have a full face shield.  No matter how carefule or good you are things happen.  A crack in the blank that you could not see or a catch with your gouge can send your blank flying.   I would recommend spending another ~$20 and get the #2 dovetail jaws for your chuck.  IMO they hold better than the straight jaws.


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