# Best Way to Finish Acrylic



## StuartCovey (Feb 21, 2014)

Hey Guys,
I was wondering what you thought the best way to finish acrylic is?
So far I have been just polishing the plain acrylic with sanding pads. But can not get a glossy finish, it always has very small scratches in it.
I've heard of using car headlight polish but haven't tried it yet. Someone said they got excellent results with it.  

I also know you can use CA on it.  Is this ok?  Will it last as long?

Thanks in advance,


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## Edward Cypher (Feb 21, 2014)

Buffing really helps a lot.


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## preacherman (Feb 21, 2014)

After turning I generally start sanding with 320 grit then 400, then 600. Then I use micro mesh pads all the way up to 12000. After each grit stop lathe and sand length ways and remove all grit and grime from that pad. After all micromesh pads I use the acrylic pen buffing system. I have very good result with this method. 

I see no benefit in applying a CA finish to acrylic blanks.


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## ed4copies (Feb 21, 2014)

HOW TO #8--Buffing.mp4 - YouTube

This is one of the best ways, if you can afford the "hardware" and motor.


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## PenMan1 (Feb 21, 2014)

I sand and cross sand with WET Abranet mesh starting at 320 to bring closer to final size, 400 grit to finish sizing, 600 grit to remove small scratches.

Wet Micromesh 1500-12,000 followed by Novus 1, Novus 2 and final finish with Meguriers PlastX. 

Not only are there no scratches, you can see yourself in the reflection.


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## LeeR (Feb 21, 2014)

I do my final cuts with a carbide tool.  I do not use it to start, since I think they are WAY to aggressive. Instead, I use roughing gouge or round nose scraper with a relief grind on top to make it less aggressive.

I really take my time finishing up with the carbide tool. I can get a pretty smooth final cut and good gloss with it, but it is a slow process for me. I use an R4 cutter on a Woodchuck PenPro.

For final polishing, I now skip the first few MicroMesh grits, and typically start with the 4000 and go up thru to 12000 -- using water, and rinsing each pad several times.  during its use.  I still use plastic polish afterward, but not sure it is really making any difference after changing my technique for turning acrylics.


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## Kaspar (Feb 21, 2014)

ed4copies said:


> HOW TO #8--Buffing.mp4 - YouTube
> 
> This is one of the best ways, if you can afford the "hardware" and motor.



Ed, when you say buffing the "opposite direction" the word you're looking for is "longitudinally."  :biggrin:


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## Kaspar (Feb 21, 2014)

I've had good success with a combination of MM through 4000, followed by Dr. Kirks Micro Magic Polishing Wax Kit, with longitudinal sanding after every step, including the waxes.


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## Hendu3270 (Feb 21, 2014)

I MM all the way up to 12000 then use some polish I can't remember the name of right now, (nothing special, just something from Autozone), then I buff.


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## StuartCovey (Feb 21, 2014)

ed4copies said:


> HOW TO #8--Buffing.mp4 - YouTube
> 
> This is one of the best ways, if you can afford the "hardware" and motor.



Yes, I have thought about doing something like that.


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## StuartCovey (Feb 21, 2014)

One thing I have not tried is using polish, so I think I will try some with that first and see what results I get.

Thanks everyone for all the info!


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## PenMan1 (Feb 21, 2014)

Kaspar said:


> I've had good success with a combination of MM through 4000, followed by Dr. Kirks Micro Magic Polishing Wax Kit, with longitudinal sanding after every step, including the waxes.



Eric:

Where did you find the Dr. Kirks? I used to use it, but the only place to get it here is a specialty auto paint and finish shop. It got more expensive than drugs.


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## Kaspar (Feb 21, 2014)

Craft Supplies has it.


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## PenMan1 (Feb 21, 2014)

Thanks Eric!
That's not the Kirk's I was using. It was auto finishing wax. But this looks promising and is cheap enough. Think I'll try a set.


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## Charlie69 (Feb 21, 2014)

Buffing  has given me the best finish on acrylics, by far.   I spent a  total of $10 on 3 buffing wheels and used polishing compounds that I  already had.  The three wheels I mounted on a mandrel (steel rod).  One  end of the mandrel is held in a scroll chuck the other end has a 60 deg  center that is supported by a live center.  Sand to 600 grit, polish  with tripoli, white diamond then turtle wax buffing compound.  After  that's done I chuck up a fourth wheel and final polish with 3m finesse  it.   Mirror finish with zero scratches.   All buffing is done length  wise (longitudinally).   There is a small learning curve but fortunately  (for me) it isn't rocket science. 

With the exception of the 3 additional polishing wheels I didn't have to buy anything to get geared up to polish acrylics on the lathe.   No special polishes, mandrels or other  pen specific goods.   Cheap aluminum rod could be used for a mandrel and a common 60 deg center bit (countersink)to drill out the end for the live center..   Hope this helps.

Charlie


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## plano_harry (Feb 22, 2014)

Stuart, your are using the micromesh wet, right? Stopping the lathe and sanding longways between each grit, and wiping off the previous sanding slurry?  When I get to 12000, the finish is so shiny, I can't tell that the polishes make any improvement, but I use them anyway.  I follow the same process Andy described.

Harry


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## fantasticalwoodworks (Feb 22, 2014)

Hi what material are your buffing wheels made from flannel or cotton? Thanks Rod


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## Charlie69 (Feb 22, 2014)

I like cotton for all compounds except the 3m finesse it,  i use a flannel wheel for that.   The 3m finesse it i put on the pen not the wheel.   Wheels are cleaned with 150 grit sand paper as needed.


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## StuartCovey (Feb 22, 2014)

plano_harry said:


> Stuart, your are using the micromesh wet, right? Stopping the lathe and sanding longways between each grit, and wiping off the previous sanding slurry?  When I get to 12000, the finish is so shiny, I can't tell that the polishes make any improvement, but I use them anyway.  I follow the same process Andy described.
> 
> Harry



I have not been using Micro Mesh, I have been using the wet sanding pads from PSI and get excellent results with them on CA.
I will be ordering some micro mesh soon though because it seems that's what most of you guys use.


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## StuartCovey (Feb 22, 2014)

Charlie69 said:


> Buffing  has given me the best finish on acrylics, by far.   I spent a  total of $10 on 3 buffing wheels and used polishing compounds that I  already had.  The three wheels I mounted on a mandrel (steel rod).  One  end of the mandrel is held in a scroll chuck the other end has a 60 deg  center that is supported by a live center.  Sand to 600 grit, polish  with tripoli, white diamond then turtle wax buffing compound.  After  that's done I chuck up a fourth wheel and final polish with 3m finesse  it.   Mirror finish with zero scratches.   All buffing is done length  wise (longitudinally).   There is a small learning curve but fortunately  (for me) it isn't rocket science.
> 
> With the exception of the 3 additional polishing wheels I didn't have to buy anything to get geared up to polish acrylics on the lathe.   No special polishes, mandrels or other  pen specific goods.   Cheap aluminum rod could be used for a mandrel and a common 60 deg center bit (countersink)to drill out the end for the live center..   Hope this helps.
> 
> Charlie



Where did you get your wheels?


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## Pitoon (Feb 22, 2014)

To get that high gloss look, you need to buff. I buff with tripoli and blue bars.

Make sure you sand with a high enough grit sandpaper to remove all scratches.  If you leave a scratch then buff.....you WILL see the scratch.  If you remove a scratch and the blank ends up with a slight underbow......build up with CA and then sand all over again to get you to the buffing stage.

Pitoon


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## Mike Powell (Feb 22, 2014)

I MM to 12000, then I fiction polish with Jewlers Rouge and a microfiber cloth.


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## Tage (Feb 22, 2014)

I sand at 220, 320, 400, and 600 then Micromesh through 12000 (stopping the lathe between grits and sanding vertically to get the circular sanding marks out), then hit with Meguiars ScratchX and PlastX.

Haven't tried buffing to compare results but would like to.


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## StuartCovey (Mar 1, 2014)

I ordered some wheels and a blue bar from Caswell, received them yesterday and was able try them out.  This was definitely the way to go, I love the finishes it produces.
Thanks for all the info guys,


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## Charlie69 (Mar 1, 2014)

Polishing wheels and compound work with CA or any finish I've used on wood including poly, spar, 2k urethane and acrylic.   I'm done with Micro Mesh; sand to 600 grit then on to the buffing.   Takes one third the time as MM and cost far less.


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