# What do you use to cool drill bit?



## bostonlives (Jun 20, 2017)

I'm new to pen turning and wanted to know if there is anything that is used to cool down the drill bit when making multiple wood and acrylic pen blanks?
Please specify for wood and for acrylic if product or process is different for each type.


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## MTViper (Jun 20, 2017)

I use speed to cool it down.  I drill my pen blanks on the lathe and slow it down to 300-400 rpm.  The bigger the drill bit, the slower I drill.  I back the bit out every half inch or so and clean the swarf off the bit.  I don't spray anything on the bit to cool it and never have a problem.


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## eharri446 (Jun 20, 2017)

I do not use anything to cool the bit down when drilling wood. However, I do use a spray bottle of water with a couple of drops of dish soap in it when drilling acrylics or something like Tru-stone. With wood, I try to take my time and drill slowly so I can keep the bit cool. I also try to let the bit cool down between blanks.


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## TonyL (Jun 20, 2017)

Bostik Bladecote : https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blade...d=1497964763&sr=8-1&keywords=bostik+bladecote.


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## KenV (Jun 20, 2017)

Sharpen the drill bit.

Drill bits that could be sharper generate a lot more heat.   I also clean and wax the bits frequently.


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## gtriever (Jun 20, 2017)

TonyL said:


> Bostik Bladecote : https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blade...d=1497964763&sr=8-1&keywords=bostik+bladecote.



Tony, what's the difference between this and other dry lubes on the market? I'm using Remington Rem-Dri or Blaster Dry Lube with Teflon on gun parts and some machine threads right now.


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## bostonlives (Jun 20, 2017)

TonyL said:


> Bostik Bladecote : https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blade...d=1497964763&sr=8-1&keywords=bostik+bladecote.



Tony I have ordered this product, but do you use it to cool down the drill bit or just apply after drilling and before drilling?


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## WriteON (Jun 20, 2017)

I replace the hot bit with a cool bit and keep rotating them as I go along. Careful when removing the chucked bit. It's hot (but we already know that)
You cannot have too many drill bits.


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## Curly (Jun 20, 2017)

I never put any lubricant that could possibly remain behind to interfere with the glue adhesion or finish even if washed after. That rules out for me all the teflons, silicones etc. On wood the best if you have it, is compressed air to cool the bit and clear the hole. Ear and eye protection is a must though.


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## moke (Jun 20, 2017)

I drill on the lathe and use my air from the compressor...it cleans it off and cools it if you hold it on..


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## 1080Wayne (Jun 20, 2017)

On a drill press , water works for both wood and plastics .  I _drill both with the hole nearly full of water , cleaning out the swarf every 1/4 inch or so . _


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## DJBPenmaker (Jun 20, 2017)

I don't lubricate wood however I lubricate acrylic with water and a drop of washing up liquid in a spray bottle and directly into the hole, but still withdrawing constantly to clear swarf.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## TonyL (Jun 20, 2017)

gtriever said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> > Bostik Bladecote : https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blade...d=1497964763&sr=8-1&keywords=bostik+bladecote.
> ...


 

Good question!  I have only used the Bostik because I saw Barry Gross use it 3 years ago and didn't even know such a produced existed. I don't have experience with anything else. There may be better and/or less expensive alternatives. I just haven't tried any. I can drill about 700 barrels with one can, and I am a very liberal sprayer. I use it for wood, acrylic, TS, everything...  I also never drill more than a half 3/4 of inch at a time...less for non-wood material. I spray the drill before each plunge. Remember, this is just what I do; I am sure there are better approaches out there as identified above.


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## SteveG (Jun 20, 2017)

My method is a process, drilling on the lathe:
1. Use ONLY sharp bits (Drill Doctor is my friend)
2. Moderate  speeds, slower for larger diameters (400~600 RPM)
3. Drill a little (Varies by material, typ about 3/4"), retract bit, clear hole and bit with blast of compressed air. (DO NOT NEGLECT FACE/EYE PROTECTION). This cools the bit.  Repeat.

When drilling non-wood materials I will often spray "Pam" cooking oil on bit and in the hole. This keeps things cooler. Repeat sprayings are needed.


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## Bill Sampson (Jun 20, 2017)

On material with a low melting point,(ie: Cebloplast) I saturate a clean rag with DNA, drill only 1/8 to 1/4 inch at a time, and wrap the bit for a few seconds. It cools and dry's quickly. It takes longer but works for me.

Bill


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## mecompco (Jun 20, 2017)

Disclaimer--very dangerous, don't do this! OK, that's over. I spray DNA from a squirt bottle onto my bit and sometimes into the hole in the blank. It is flammable, so don't do it!  Though thus far, I've never had a fire--smoke, yes, but no fire. It won't harm wood like water might, and does seem to cool the bit well. But, is IS flammable, so don't do it! Well, unless you want to, at your own risk (still, you probably shouldn't). ;-)


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## TonyL (Jun 20, 2017)

bostonlives said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> > Bostik Bladecote : https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blade...d=1497964763&sr=8-1&keywords=bostik+bladecote.
> ...


 
I spray it on before each plunge - just a quick spray. I do not spray after my last plunge; maybe I should, but I don't. 



gtriever said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> > Bostik Bladecote : https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blade...d=1497964763&sr=8-1&keywords=bostik+bladecote.
> ...


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## wouldentu2? (Jun 20, 2017)

Wet rag.


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## mark james (Jun 20, 2017)

I will admit to using a paper towel and water to cool the bit when I retract it from the hole every 1/4".  I'll also second having sharp bits.


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## Woodchipper (Jun 21, 2017)

Damp rag or let it sit in the air before using again.  I'm retired and in no hurry.

May the swarf be with you! :alien:


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## mikespenturningz (Jul 16, 2017)

I think this is almost always the problem with overheating a drill bit. Sharpen it! The bit should be cutting away material easily. You will really find this when you start to segment pens. Dull bits equal broken segmented blanks. 



KenV said:


> Sharpen the drill bit.
> 
> Drill bits that could be sharper generate a lot more heat.   I also clean and wax the bits frequently.


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