# Metal inlay



## Penultimate (Jan 14, 2014)

Greetings
Has anyone used the metal inlay process from Metal Inlay Supplies Ted Sokolowski
Thanks


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## Ed McDonnell (Jan 14, 2014)

Penultimate said:


> Greetings
> Has anyone used the metal inlay process from Metal Inlay Supplies Ted Sokolowski
> Thanks



Hi Mike - I've used atomized metal powders in my turnings (not just pens).  The prices at the website you linked are very high.  You can get the materials for a lot less at places that sell supplies to people doing cold cast sculptures (e.g. douglas and sturgess) or on ebay.  

The end result is nice, but it's not the same as a solid metal inlay.

The DVD for sale on the website you linked is OK.  The techniques explained have been around for years and there isn't any super special / secret info on the DVD.  But, if you have never done any inlay in your turnings and you don't know anybody at a local turning club that does it, the DVD may be worth a look. 

Ed


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## Jim Burr (Jan 14, 2014)

I do a lot of inlays, but not sure if it's his technique or not. Metal powder is fun, but Pearl-ex and stone are equally fun...IMHO. I would like to try that bit though!


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## Ed McDonnell (Jan 14, 2014)

Hi Jim - The DVD explains how to use CA glue to inlay the metal powder.  It's no different than what turners have been doing for years to inlay various materials.

Ed


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## Jim Burr (Jan 14, 2014)

parklandturner said:


> Hi Jim - The DVD explains how to use CA glue to inlay the metal powder.  It's no different than what turners have been doing for years to inlay various materials.
> 
> Ed


 
Ha!!! $30 to do what we've been doing for years?! I just used turquoise powder on a buckeye bullet last week! I do like the shape that the bit on his site. I'm going to do an inlay today just to make myself feel better!!


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## Penultimate (Jan 14, 2014)

Thanks for the replies and advice. I appreciate all the experience you are willing to share.


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## low_48 (Jan 16, 2014)

I have that DVD coming as a late Christmas gift, hope it's not lost somewhere. But here's a link to WAY cheaper metal powders. No idea on quality comparisons.
Metal Powders for Cold Casting Real Metal with Urethane Resin


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## Ed McDonnell (Jan 16, 2014)

And even less expensive here.   1lb of aluminum for $9.70 vs $23 at smooth-on.  

Douglas and Sturgess: Atomized Metal Powders

I've used these and they work well.  Good mesh size for inlay.



Ed


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## low_48 (Jan 20, 2014)

I just finished viewing the DVD by Ted Sokolowski on Metal Inlaying. There are tips on there that make it worth the purchase. One point he makes is using a larger particle size powder to let the CA soak all the way through. He demos putting ultra thin CA on -325 mesh powder (the cheap stuff that I had posted about and the same from Douglas and Sturgess) and it forms a hard skin on top and does not soak to the wood. He pulls off the skin just like picking off a scab. He then puts the same ultra thin CA on -100 mesh powder that he sells, and the CA soaks all the way to the wood and makes the powder a hardened mass all the way through. I guess they want the finer powder to be able to mix with resins and cast out smoothly, but it must not work with the CA technique.

Anyone verified that? I did some searching on-line for the -100 mesh powders, and they are crazy expensive by the pound. I did find some cheaper, sold by fireworks suppliers, but it had a very wide range of particle size. Something like 5 to -150. I guess I could sift my own?


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## Jim Burr (Jan 20, 2014)

I wonder if doing the powder and CA in layers would achieve the desired result?


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## Ed McDonnell (Jan 20, 2014)

low_48 said:


> I just finished viewing the DVD by Ted Sokolowski on Metal Inlaying. There are tips on there that make it worth the purchase. One point he makes is using a larger particle size powder to let the CA soak all the way through. He demos putting ultra thin CA on -325 mesh powder (the cheap stuff that I had posted about and the same from Douglas and Sturgess) and it forms a hard skin on top and does not soak to the wood. He pulls off the skin just like picking off a scab. He then puts the same ultra thin CA on -100 mesh powder that he sells, and the CA soaks all the way to the wood and makes the powder a hardened mass all the way through. I guess they want the finer powder to be able to mix with resins and cast out smoothly, but it must not work with the CA technique.
> 
> Anyone verified that? I did some searching on-line for the -100 mesh powders, and they are crazy expensive by the pound. I did find some cheaper, sold by fireworks suppliers, but it had a very wide range of particle size. Something like 5 to -150. I guess I could sift my own?



For what it's worth....

I've successfully used the 325 mesh powders with CA, BUT, I engrave only to a depth of 0.01".   The CA doesn't have to soak very far.  On the few times I've had deeper areas (like maybe 0.2") to inlay I've added the ca first and then the powder on top of that.  It sank into the CA and worked for me.

I often inlay the metal powder mixed with PR.  The smaller particle size works better for this.

The larger the particle size you use, the more granular the inlay will look.  325 mesh looks pretty good to my naked eye.  (Then again, nobody ever calls me eagle eye.)  It's not anything like a solid metal inlay polished to a mirror finish, but it's nice.  

I don't inlay into wood anymore.  Over a period of 10 years I found wood movement leaves the inlay proud or inset.  Sometimes the inlay cracks.  Metal inlaid into resin seems to hold up well.

Your mileage may vary......


Ed


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