# Buffing



## DozerMite (Oct 31, 2010)

I've been asked by some if I could post some pics of my three stage buff finish.
I can't get the detail on the camera like it looks in person, but if you look close, you can see the ridges in the first stage, then the dullness in the second and the shine in the last stage. After turning, I sand with 220 grit only and then to the wheels. Only takes 30 seconds or less to finish a pen.















This pic shows the final finish a little better. You can kind of see the progression down the blank. Some of my other pics came out much better on some other blanks with this same process. I can post those if someone wants to see a better pic of the finish.










.


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## wm460 (Nov 4, 2010)

This is interesting, when you say your three stage buff finish do you mean you use a a Beall Buffing system or similar, and use use tripoli and white diamond  and carnuba.
So your way makes sanding to 12000MM  a waste of time and effort.


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## ed4copies (Nov 4, 2010)

I readily admit I don't see well, but I think you are just NOT going to be able to take pics that will show the transition.

I tried to do a video and was totally unimpressed with that, too.

I AGREE completely with what you are TRYING to do, just to eliminate any doubt---good luck!!!


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## wm460 (Nov 6, 2010)

I was turning an Opalac disc this afternoon,after I had sanded to 400, polished it using to opalac polish. When I had finish I could still see scratches, so pull the Beall out of the cupboard and gave it a go when I was finished there was not a mark on it.  

I AM IMPRESSED 
Thanks Dozer Mite


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## DozerMite (Nov 6, 2010)

I don't use the Beall system, I have dedicated buffing equipment and use high quality materials. The better the materials, the better the finish.
I NEVER use wax, it will actually dull a fine finish. I only sand with 220 grit after turning to insure the surface is level because it WILL show. I then use three compounds in progression with the suited wheels. I've been selling these compounds to the car guys for a little over a month and several have asked for more. Anyone should be able to at least improve their finish with this method and materials.

After turning, I can literally finish a pen in 30 seconds. So yes, MM is a huge waste of time and the finish isn't nearly as fine.

I was just trying to show the results rather than trying to convince the non-believers.
A picture is worth a thousand words, unless...






it's one of MY pictures.



These will show you the final finish that can be aquired, even on black.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55624


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## IPD_Mrs (Nov 6, 2010)

For those of you who do a lot of buffing what is the best way to protect your wheels from dust and contamination.  I do a lot of flat work and could not leave the Beall buffer set up because of all the saw dust.  Also if I take the rod off and store it in a plastic bag, should I be concerned about cross contamination from the different compounds on the wheels?


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## ldb2000 (Nov 6, 2010)

MLKWoodWorking said:


> For those of you who do a lot of buffing what is the best way to protect your wheels from dust and contamination. I do a lot of flat work and could not leave the Beall buffer set up because of all the saw dust. Also if I take the rod off and store it in a plastic bag, should I be concerned about cross contamination from the different compounds on the wheels?


 
If you don't have to take it off the lathe to use the lathe for other turnings , you could take a tall kitchen garbage bag and wrap it around the setup and secure it with a twist tie from bread bags on each end of the mandrel . Take a marker and mark the headstock end of the bag so you always put it back on the same way and you won't have to worry about cross contaminating the wheels .


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## DozerMite (Nov 6, 2010)

If you rake your wheels after each use and before each use, you shouldn't have to worry much about contaminating by placing in a bag.

I have sleeves to put over my wheels and also a cover for my buff jacks. They don't get covered very often as I'm using them daily. There is ALWAYS something that needs to be shiney.:biggrin:


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## BigguyZ (Nov 9, 2010)

I gotta start buffing...

I don't want to open up an old wound, but I know a lot of people are using the Caswell buffs and such.  What are you using?


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## philb (Nov 9, 2010)

What does everyone use to hold there work to buff it?

I'm always worried on a CA finished wood pen that the buffing wheel will tear away the CA finish at the rim of the barrel? Similar to if you have a bit over the rim and press a pen together! Or am i wrong, as i know a lot of people buff CA finishes as well as Acrylics.

PHIL


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## arioux (Nov 9, 2010)

Ok, i'll ask it:  When are we going to see this system in the classified ?   I need to give my Christmass list to my wife and a buffing system is on it.


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## johnnycnc (Nov 9, 2010)

arioux said:


> Ok, i'll ask it:  When are we going to see this system in the classified ?   I need to give my Christmass list to my wife and a buffing system is on it.



I'll second that question! :biggrin:


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## Whaler (Nov 9, 2010)

philbaldwin said:


> What does everyone use to hold there work to buff it?
> 
> I'm always worried on a CA finished wood pen that the buffing wheel will tear away the CA finish at the rim of the barrel? Similar to if you have a bit over the rim and press a pen together! Or am i wrong, as i know a lot of people buff CA finishes as well as Acrylics.
> 
> PHIL



I use a retired mandrel and johnnycnc's Eliminator bushings for both buffing and applying CA. Buffing at a low speed with a light touch shouldn't damage the CA finish.


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## DozerMite (Nov 9, 2010)

arioux said:


> Ok, i'll ask it: When are we going to see this system in the classified ?  I need to give my Christmass list to my wife and a buffing system is on it.


 


johnnycnc said:


> arioux said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, i'll ask it: When are we going to see this system in the classified ?  I need to give my Christmass list to my wife and a buffing system is on it.
> ...


 

Sorry, you probably won't see anything in the classified. I don't have Paypal and won't use it, so payment is check or money order and most people don't like that proceedure.
It's not a complete system, it's only compounds I've been selling. Any quality wheels will work fine. I prefer the Dommet over the Canton, but the Canton work very well.


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## witz1976 (Nov 9, 2010)

DozerMite said:


> arioux said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, i'll ask it: When are we going to see this system in the classified ?  I need to give my Christmass list to my wife and a buffing system is on it.
> ...



Didn't know you were selling compounds.  Not that I am buffing yet, but I am still learning


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## snyiper (Nov 9, 2010)

Anywhere we can find out about these compounds?


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## soligen (Nov 16, 2010)

Dozermite,

You said you are selling these compounds, but I dont see any links in your profile to any site and I dont see any product names or ordering procedures. Can you post more details? You might get a little business.


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## DozerMite (Nov 16, 2010)

soligen said:


> Dozermite,
> 
> You said you are selling these compounds, but I dont see any links in your profile to any site and I dont see any product names or ordering procedures. Can you post more details? You might get a little business.


 

I don't have a website and don't really sell compounds as a business.

I get quality compounds through my employer. I can sell some to those interested, but I don't do Paypal, so that creates problems for some.

There are three compounds. Some claim they don't need to sand, so for them... it would be straight to the compounds. I, however, prefer to sand to ensure the surface is even because ANY flaws (ridges, valley's, dippity do's, etc.) WILL show. I sand with 220 grit just to get the surface even then to the compounds. It literally takes me 30 seconds to finish a pen after turning.

If you or anyone else has any questions, just ask.

I will try to get a picture of the compounds for you.


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