# Silly question but I don't know until I know.



## Karin Voorhis (Jan 5, 2010)

I just got the Beal buffing system for my old mini jet single speed. Since I have never buffed before and my theory was to have it at full speed and just hold piece to it. Well now I am here to ask really what to do. 
 
I get the pen buffing since I can leave it on the mandrel and do it that way. However I was buffing a Corian Pendent last night and needless to say it got ripped right out of my hand flew across the shop and smashed into pieces.  
 
Help with my ignorant being self
 
Thanks in advance!


----------



## Greg O'Sherwood (Jan 5, 2010)

I buff at a slow speed and just hang on tight. Try not to press onto the buffs too hard, just a light touch is enough.

I think when using corian, just MM to 12000. No buffing needed.

.


----------



## KenV (Jan 5, 2010)

8 inch wheels right --  at full speed they are really zinging at the edge.   That is a hard way to learn.

The real trick is to use are really light touch and that can be hard to learn when they are going mach 1 speed  --  Light loading of abrasive and wax, and light touch to let the abrasive do the polishing.  Very Very light pressure and a good grip.  If it grabs and throws, too much pressure.   Get a piece of hardwood like maple or rosewood and practice a bit --  get smaller pieces after you have used large chunks  with a great grip on them.


I suggest you use a slow speed and after you get a better feel, go for faster if you want.  

Did I say light touch and light load


----------



## dustmaker (Jan 5, 2010)

Karin,  I buff around 1700RPM.  You really don't need high speed for buffing, the compound does the real work.


----------



## Whaler (Jan 5, 2010)

What Greg said, slow it down and use a light touch.


----------



## BRobbins629 (Jan 5, 2010)

I would not use metal bushings on the mandrel when you are buffing.  Its a good way to get metal particles ruining your finish or staining light woods. Either make/buy some white delrin bushings or buff off the mandrel.


----------



## Karin Voorhis (Jan 5, 2010)

Thank you all sooo much. I try really hard to figure things out first before I ask my meaning is that I learn more. But wow this was a nice piece and it ripped it right out of my hans and gone.


----------



## dustmaker (Jan 5, 2010)

Karin, this video may help too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUnql9eYV5A&feature=player_embedded


----------



## mredburn (Jan 5, 2010)

You might try using a wood dowel that the parts will slide onto,  to hold onto. That way you hold onto the dowel on both sides and use your thumb behind the blank to keep it from spinning while buffing.  MIke


----------



## RussFairfield (Jan 5, 2010)

I just put a new page on my website that talks about buffing wheels and includes some video.

Take a look and see if it helps.  http://www.woodturner-russ.com/Wax/Wax-6-Buffing-a.html


----------



## jttheclockman (Jan 5, 2010)

I always cringe when I read how people use their mandrels when buffing. Then you read about out of round blanks. I mandrel is not meant to have pressure put on it like that. If you have an old one then fine or get a piece of rod or a dowel and adapt that. Stop using the mandrel.


----------



## Grizz (Jan 5, 2010)

Karin Voorhis said:


> I just got the Beal buffing system for my old mini jet single speed. Since I have never buffed before and my theory was to have it at full speed and just hold piece to it. Well now I am here to ask really what to do.
> 
> I get the pen buffing since I can leave it on the mandrel and do it that way. However I was buffing a Corian Pendent last night and needless to say it got ripped right out of my hand flew across the shop and smashed into pieces.
> 
> ...



There is no Silly Questions, just Silly people.  :monkey:


----------



## chrisk (Jan 5, 2010)

I remember that the instructions provided with the Beall Buffing system advise for a speed lathe up to 1750 RPM for safety reasons.


----------



## DozerMite (Jan 5, 2010)

KenV said:


> 8 inch wheels right -- at full speed they are really zinging at the edge. That is a hard way to learn.
> 
> The real trick is to use are really light touch and that can be hard to learn when they are going mach 1 speed -- Light loading of abrasive and wax, and light touch to let the abrasive do the polishing. Very Very light pressure and a good grip. If it grabs and throws, too much pressure. Get a piece of hardwood like maple or rosewood and practice a bit -- get smaller pieces after you have used large chunks with a great grip on them.
> 
> ...


 

If it is suddenly snatched from your hand, it has nothing to do with to much pressure. It's from the wheel hitting an edge, called a catch, and it's the top edge that is the reason. Pressure only creates heat and ruins the object being buffed and the wheel.
Just keep away from the top edge and it won't catch on you. Ideally, you want a bushing on the barrel or it's possible to round the edges that mate to the hardware. Use whatever bushings work for you. I use my steel bushings.

Corian, like any other plastic material, will benefit from buffing opposed to just using MM. Better finish and reduced time.

With higher RPM and/or larger wheels, it will burn much faster, but with a light touch and proper technique, it is fine. Just remember to run across the wheel faster since it's rotating faster. I run 3450RPM on one and 3600RPM on another. Just practice, like anything else. After a few catches, you will see why, and know how to avoid it.


----------



## MrPukaShell (Jan 5, 2010)

I was surprised that no one asked if you touched the buffing wheel above center.  If you get above center you will diffidently get a catch like you described.  There have been a lot of good tips here as always.  If I was looking at the wheel from the side you want to stay in the 6 to 8 range with the wheel is spinning away from you.


----------



## LEAP (Jan 5, 2010)

Karin,
I use a piece of 1/4" threaded rod and a couple delrin cone bushings I made. Send me your address and I'll send you a piece of delrin rod. The threaded rod allows you to adjust to what ever size barrel you happen to be buffing at the time.


----------



## Bree (Jan 5, 2010)

RussFairfield said:


> I just put a new page on my website that talks about buffing wheels and includes some video.
> 
> Take a look and see if it helps. http://www.woodturner-russ.com/Wax/Wax-6-Buffing-a.html


 
Great material Russ.  Once again you have shown your excellence!
Thanks for sharing!
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


----------



## nava1uni (Jan 6, 2010)

How about using a holder to hold the piece rather then holding it with your hand.


----------

