# Waterlox



## sam4msu (May 7, 2006)

Has anyone tried to use Waterlox on pens?  If so how did it work for you and what method did you use to apply it?  
Thanks for any available help.
Sam


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## vick (May 7, 2006)

PM Penworks if no one answers.  I know he has used it before.


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## Ron in Drums PA (May 7, 2006)

I use waterlox on other turnings, but I was never really happy with it for pens. 

I applied it to the wood while it was spinning on the lathe, simular to the way one would apply a friction polish. 

Even after a couple of months the finish would feel soft after using the pen.


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## DCBluesman (May 7, 2006)

I've used it on a few pens, Sam.  I brush it on and wipe off the excess.  It gives a nice, warm, satin finish to a pen if you don't mind waiting at least a month to assemble it...more like 2-3 months and 6 months before it is fully cured.


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## RussFairfield (May 8, 2006)

Cure time is always a problem with Waterlox and similar oil/varnish finishes. I use it at times because I like the color that is imparted to some woods by the oils and varnish. It is also more acid resistent than most other finishes, making it a more durable finish for those whose body chemistry will eat off almost anything we can put on a pen. 

It is a slightly harder finish than Deft Lacquer. The problem is that it has neither the hardness, gloss, or durability of a CA or Enduro finish, and neither of them require waiting a month before assembling the pen.

I use a soaking application of the Waterlox. I sand the wood to 12,000 Micro-Mesh, and then submurge them in a jar of the finish for 2 or 3 hours. They are then removed from the bath, the excess wiped away, and then they are set aside for at least 2-weeks in warm weather. After that they can be buffed with a white diamond wheel. Total time isn't very long, but there is the wait, and that can be 4 to 6 weeks or more in the winter. I don't plug the ends of the brass tubes, and clean them out at assembly with a bronze rifle bore brush.


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## PenWorks (May 8, 2006)

I use it on about 25% of my pens for the reasons above, 
a nice soft low shean natural finish. 
I wipe it on with a rag and wipe off, ussually put 3-4 coats on, wait a day or two between coats.


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## PenWorks (May 9, 2006)

Sam, here is a sample of Waterlox, These have three coats, then buffed.

Stabalized buckeye burl, no finish, just sand & buff, Cocobollo & amboyna have the Waterlox, birdseye maple lacquer,cocobollo on bottom CA.




<br />

If you want a softer finish, don't buff. still has a nice shine without the high gloss & plastic feel & look.


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## bonefish (May 20, 2006)

I read in a magazine about a knifemaker who uses Waterlox to stabilize the wood and stag he uses on his knife handles.

The article said that he also used a vacuum to saturate the wood and stag. There was no more detail about how he did it.

Robert


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