# Little problem with glue



## Maximil (Jan 9, 2011)

Hello

I've a question. In fact, a problem.
I would like to make a pen segmented with wood, black paper, stainless steel sheet (0.04"), black paper and another wood. And this three or four times.
When I glue all these with araldite (epoxy), no problem. But when I turn this with my metal lathe, the SS heats and the glue becomes liquid and don't glue anymore.
Do you know how I could make this ? another glue ? SS sheet finer ?
I've no idee.
Thanks


----------



## Drstrangefart (Jan 9, 2011)

Give thick CA a shot. Make sure that everything is exteremely thoroughly glued down to the tubes before it hits the lathe. SHOULD help you in that department, just make sure the CA is good and dry and well cured. I give it a couple of hours before turning it. I've used strips of aluminum in segments successfully doing that, I wouldn't think the sheets of steel would be any different.


----------



## IPD_Mrs (Jan 9, 2011)

The problem is heat build up.  The blank gets over 170 and the glue fails.  The key is to take a few passes and let the blank cool.  You can also drizzle thin CA over the blank between those passes.  This is the same theory when dealing with many of Eagle's blanks.  Do a few passes, drizzle some CA, sharpen your skew and repeat.  This will increase your turning time to several hours if done correctly.


----------



## jttheclockman (Jan 9, 2011)

Not all epoxys are the same. Need to read the packages carefully. I happen to use the System 3 epoxy glues. I think also there maybe a situation with the combination of things you are glueing. I am not liking the paper addition. Are you using this as an accent piece??? If so wouldn't a black plastic be a better matchup??? That to me is a weak link but that is just my 2¢


----------



## KenV (Jan 9, 2011)

metal lathe can be cutting with the carriage or by hand -- and some stainless is tough to cut and work hardens easily.  Once workhardened, expect little but heat.

Point suggested by several comments -- the combination may be a difficult one to turn with a high rate of failures before success.


----------



## aggromere (Jan 9, 2011)

I have had trouble with thicker sheets of metal when gluing.   I use CA.  However, if I cut up and flatten out a coke can and sand each side well, the glue seems to hold it and drilling through it is no issue.  I have never used paper.


----------



## Maximil (Jan 11, 2011)

Thanks.
Are coke can in stainless steel ?

I don't find fine black plastic sheet... :frown:

I will try more one time


----------



## blade.white (Jan 11, 2011)

Try the knifemaker supply companies Jantzknifemaking supply and Texas Knifemakers supply. They sell a spacer material in a variety of colors as well as nickel silver which may work better than the stainless. Nickel silver will at least be easier to turn. You could also try grinding the pen blank closer to size on a belt or disc sander. May reduce the heat buildup, at least easier on your turning tools.


----------



## aggromere (Jan 13, 2011)

coke cans are aluminum, but they look nice, silver like.


----------



## jskeen (Jan 13, 2011)

Stainless is a PITA to work with in general, glue, welding, polishing, whatever.  Aluminum is much more user friendly.  However if you are just set on using the 40 mil stainless you want to rough it up some to help whatever glue you use, and be super careful to keep the blank cool.  I don't necessarily think that a grinder or belt sander is going to keep it cooler than a gouge though, because that will concentrate the heat in one small spot.  you might try directing a stream of air from a compressor hose at it.  I do that when drilling tough blanks and it seems to help.  Other than that, turn at high speed with light cuts using the sharpest tool you have (carbide might be a good choice)  but only turn for a little bit, then let it cool.  

Good luck with it.


----------

