# Seamless Polymer Tubes #2



## creativewriting (Jan 9, 2010)

The second seamless tube option is a basic mokume technique. If you are not familiar with mokume there are numerous websites that explain the process in great detail. In the spirit simplicity I will be brief in my description.

Using whatever color combination you choose roll the clay into thin sheets (a pasta machine makes this simple). Alternating the colors stack the clay layers. Using a small rolling pin, water glass, or acrylic rod compress the stack. Cut the clay into quarters and restack. Repeat as necessary.

Next I used different sized tools to make holes in the clay stack. You can fill the holes with another color or leave them open. Once I got the design I wanted I wrapped a tube with a thin layer of black clay. Next using a tissue blade I cut thin slices of the layered stack and wrapped them around the covered tube. Roll the tube on a flat surface to smooth the layers together, bake, and turn to size. I finished with CA and buffed.

I am not a big fan of the colors I used, but the technique works to eliminate seams. The color and design choices are unlimited once you get a better feel for building the stacks.

Good Luck!
 
 For those that missed the first and wondering why this is number 2 here is the link http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56195


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## snyiper (Jan 9, 2010)

Dang that rocks...wish I could get min even close!!!!


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## khogan16 (Jan 9, 2010)

When you roll it, will the holes flatten out


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## CSue (Jan 9, 2010)

Thanks.  I really like the colors of the first 2 tubes in the picture with 2 blanks all done.


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## Ligget (Jan 9, 2010)

Thanks for taking the time to do these tutorials Keith, I am starting to get really interested in making my own polymer clay pen barrels simply due to the vast amount of colours, patterns etc that can be made.

Keep up the good work my friend, now heading to Ebay to buy pasta roller!


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## creativewriting (Jan 9, 2010)

> _When you roll it, will the holes flatten out_


 
Yes.  Keep the slices very thin and they will smooth themselves out.  I have a glass work surface and I use a 4" white porceline tile (I had a bunch from another project) to roll the tube.  It doesn't take a lot of pressure to smooth the surface.  This one requires very little turning if any.  I use the bushings as a guide when I am rolling.  Once it is baked I use the skew very very lightly to smooth the surface and then sand starting with 600.  Thin and light are the keys.

Mark, good luck my friend.  The addiction has begun!!!

Good luck


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## jbostian (Jan 9, 2010)

I have been thinking about trying polymer clay.  This helps a lot.

Jamie


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## rjwolfe3 (Jan 9, 2010)

This really makes me want to try this!


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## Brooks803 (Jan 10, 2010)

Your blanks turned (no pun intended) out awesome. My personal fav is the far right. It almost has a burl like look to it.  Great job and thanks for the tutorial!


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## khogan16 (Jan 10, 2010)

well, I did it wet out and bought a few clay bars today and looks like tomorrow will be clayday.


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## Texatdurango (Jan 10, 2010)

I have a few questions below if you don't mind.



creativewriting said:


> The second seamless tube option is a basic mokume technique. If you are not familiar with mokume there are numerous websites that explain the process in great detail. In the spirit simplicity I will be brief in my description.
> 
> Using whatever color combination you choose roll the clay into *thin sheets* (a pasta machine makes this simple). Alternating the colors stack the clay layers. Using a small rolling pin, water glass, or acrylic rod compress the stack. Cut the clay into quarters and restack. Repeat as necessary.
> 
> ...


 
Looks like tomorrow will be clayday for several of us! :biggrin:


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## creativewriting (Jan 10, 2010)

George, don't drive your self crazy with precision and size. The layers can start out 1/16 to 1/8 inch. I go by pasta machine numbers. Start with a 1 or 2 (the thickest settings). Some pasta machines start the other direction so it may be a 5 or 6 on yours. The layers will get thinner as you go through the process.

Stack your sheets, reduce by rolling it out, quarter the reduced sheet, then stack again. continue 2-4 more times. The thinner the layers the more complex your design will be. WARNING, there is a point of no return where the color becomes one big blob! The last time you stack don't reduce it. Just make sure it is pressed together.

The size and shape of the block doesn't really matter. You are cutting very thin shavings to laminate the tube.

This is a link http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=311453.0 of another mokume tutorial. It is much more complex, but will give you an idea about the endless possibilities. There are hundreds of other tutorials on the web as well.


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## PenAffair (Jan 10, 2010)

creativewriting said:


> Yes.  Keep the slices very thin and they will smooth themselves out.  I have a glass work surface and I use a 4" white porceline tile (I had a bunch from another project) to roll the tube.  It doesn't take a lot of pressure to smooth the surface.  This one requires very little turning if any.  I use the bushings as a guide when I am rolling.  Once it is baked I use the skew very very lightly to smooth the surface and then sand starting with 600.  Thin and light are the keys.k



Can I just clarify a point? When you wrap the black clay base, you'd have to make sure it was thinner than the bush size, and then your Mokume layers would have to fill up to the bush, so that when you do the final turning, you don't turn down into the black clay again. Is that correct?

So your black layer is going to be pretty thin. My pasta machine has a tendancy to warp sheets thinner than about the middle setting.

Russell.


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## creativewriting (Jan 10, 2010)

> When you wrap the black clay base, you'd have to make sure it was thinner than the bush size


Great point Russel.  I usually make the black layer equal to the bushing.  When I roll the barrel to smooth the surface it forces the extra off the ends of the tube.  I then trim with a razor blade.  By making the first layer the same size as the bushing you ensure there is enough black (or other color) to fill the holes and make the blank smooth.


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## Rchan63 (Jan 15, 2010)

How does the clay stick onto the tube?


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## WoodWizard (Jan 16, 2010)

you ever think of doing a youtube video of how you do this...would love to see it


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## creativewriting (Jan 17, 2010)

I am working on some tutorials.  They are not video, but will be much more detailed then the couple pictures above.


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## thewishman (Jan 17, 2010)

creativewriting said:


> I am working on some tutorials.  They are not video, but will be much more detailed then the couple pictures above.


  Thanks, Keith!


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## soccer2010 (Jan 24, 2010)

So what kind of clay did you use for this?


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## creativewriting (Jan 25, 2010)

I prefer using Premo & Studio.  Premo, IMHO, has a great sheen after finishing and is very durable.  Studio is durable, but has an extremly matte finish once cured.  I have been doing some experiments with Cernet (one of the oldest clays) but don't have alot to report yet.  There is a new "designer" clay on the market called Pardo that I am also wanting to try (just got some yesterday).  The colors on the Pardo are amazing with over 64 shades and effects.


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