# Casein



## ed4copies (Sep 6, 2010)

I have been asked about the best finish for casein.  I sure don't consider myself an authority, but there are a few guys here who have used a lot of it.  What secrets do you care to share?

The specific question I was asked was "Can I do a CA finish?"  Of course I immediately thought--it's yours, do whatever you want???  Now, seriously, I would not do a CA finish, but is there a good reason one way or another??

All help is appreciated!!


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## ed4copies (Sep 6, 2010)

I see that there was a thread about a month ago and several opinions are there.  I will use those--if there is any additional info that I can gain, here, I will use it as well.

TIA


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## Skye (Sep 13, 2010)

I'll step up and say I have no clue what that is. I drank my weight in casein based protein shakes, but I doubt that's the same thing, lol


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## CaptG (Sep 13, 2010)

I have made a number of casein pens and sand to 600, then mm (wet).  I finish with nufinish fine scratch remover polish then a very light polish on a soft buffing wheel with white diamond.  The only time I have used a ca finish on casein is when I laser  a name in the cap end. I do this before I sand and mm. I color filled the laser with acrylic paint, then applied ca over to fill and seal the paint, then I start the sanding, mm, and buffing process.  When finished the only ca left is in the laser marks and is flush with the surface making the name smooth to the touch.  That is what I do and if you decide to do a full ca finish, I see nothing wrong with that.


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## phillywood (Sep 13, 2010)

Ed, I'd be interested to learn about it too. I tried to search here on IAP and the only thing I could get is that what I put out to find out about this material and never got enough info.. I hope the members who turned this material would shed some light on this one.


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## SteveG (Sep 13, 2010)

I have made a few pens of the casein, and have simply gone with MM and buffing, which yields a very nice final appearance. My limited research on "historical" use of this material seems to indicate that no finish is needed, but I am no expert in this area.


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## OKLAHOMAN (Sep 13, 2010)

Ed, as you said sure you can but the question is why? It surly doesn't need a CA finish, buttons for years have been made of casein with no finish and the other myth is it would dissolve in water..again a myth as most of our great grand mothers and some of us older our grandmothers scrubbed clothing on a wash board and used harsh detergents and water. I have made a few and sold a few with no restrictions and the only finish is my usual polishing that I do with all man made acrylics, tru-stones etc. If engraving and color filling like Gary then maybe a CA finish over the color fill....


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## PaulDoug (Sep 13, 2010)

MM through 12k and wax is all I do.


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## RussFairfield (Sep 14, 2010)

I agree with the previous answers. Why would anyone want to ruin the beautiful polish of a Casein pen by coating it with something that will wear off.  I don't know of any pen or other quality product that was ever made from Casein and coated with anything.


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## lwalden (Sep 14, 2010)

I have been putting a CA finish over mine, based on the understanding that casein, even though it polishes up nicely on it's own, is a permeable material and can be dyed. I guess I'm picturing a nice, crisp pen going out to a buyer and two or three years later it's dingy from having absorbed oils and dirt from the hands of the user.


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## gr8danish (Sep 14, 2010)

^ Good point, however; even though the material is permeable, if you seal / sand / buff / polish it should no longer pick up dirt and grime or dis-color from normal wear and tear.

If the casein gets scratched at all, it can still pick up dirt and get discolored inside the scratch, but then again this would be the case even if you finish it.

There are lots of materials that I choose not to finish. Any time I use real Ivory, bone (camel or antler), resin (I've been on a black champagne-paper thermoset kick recently), or even Ebony. These materials when properly POLISHED, have a very nice natural feel that blows away the feeling of CA.


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## penmanship (Sep 14, 2010)

I have done only 1, but with great success........wet sand, wet MM, Hut Plastic Polish, done!  That simple, and great result! (imho)


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## PenMan1 (Sep 14, 2010)

I make a LOT of casein pens. I finish them just as I would acrylic or PR,(mm to 12000 and then Plastix) EXCEPT I NEVER BUFF on a buffing wheel. The heat build up from the high RPM s of the off lathe buffing wheel can cause the casein to crack when pressing the pen.

A CA finish WILL work over casein, but IMHO, CA ruins the natural, comfortable "grainy" feel of the casein.


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## OKLAHOMAN (Sep 14, 2010)

Charlie, if you've polished to a nice luster, I'm curious as to why you are now thinking of a plex or any other finish. Have you had problems ot staining?


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## bitshird (Sep 15, 2010)

I'm with the majority, I just wet sand all the way up to 12000 MM then use Novus , it get's a fine shine that way, that''s one of the beauties of the material, very even, don't let the stripes fool you.


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