# Jnr Emperor Invisible Clip



## TurnaPen (Aug 22, 2009)

Ok, here are the pictures for the invisible clip, I use this principle on all my invisible clips. The idea of the invisible clip comes from our IAP library that has two excellent articles in it, my main difference is that I use a laser engraver to cut the hole cleanly. I may have to use two posts to fit all the pictures in. Amos
1. First picture, I "weigh up" where the clip may go, in this case the clip is gold and putting it on the "gold" portion of wood would not suit, but against the red portion of the blank there is an effective contrast.
2. Ok, I know WHERE the clip is to go, so measure up the width of the clip and set up the lasers software to suit.
3 and 4, measure the length of the cap tube and set my laser to cut just after that length, example here it measured 47mil, so I set my laser for 48 mil and did a test run then put the tube against it and the cut is just above the tube. PS This PRESUMES that I knew that when I initially drilled my cap for the tube that I drilled an extra 1.5mil to allow for the clip!!!-worth remembering!!!)
5.The laser cut the "hole" (you have to get to know your engraver to know how much power to apply--too much and you can go to the next layer maybe, especially if you do a second cut. NOT SHOWN HERE -I did another cut at 48.5mil so i could have a slightly larger opening for the thicker Jnr. Emperor clip.
6 Onto the clip it needs cutting
7 Used heavy pliers because the clip seemed hefty
8 The Clip with a portion cut out
9  BEWARE this edge-this is the first cut I made
10 and 11 this time I cut more off that corner, look closely at this; if the edge sticks out and is too ragged you WILL have TROUBLE putting it in and it could tear or crack the blank.
12, 13 and 14, I have cut a little more off the circle of the clip, then with a pair of long nose pliers I have twisted the ring inwards slightly
15 Now fit the clip this way  and rotate inwards CAREFUL now, try not to let that inner edge touch the blank!! that eadge  mentioned in photos 9, 10 and 11
GO TO MY SECOND POST BELOW FOR CONTINUATION please

16 The clip is in.
17 The piece that normally fits in the clip and holds it in position, it needs to fit in easily and smoothly so
18 Remove a little on the lathe OR just sandpaper it until it slides easily.
19 A view of the clip inside the cap, the ring is visible
20 Using a cotton bud carefully put a decent dolop of 5 minute expoy right down on the clip
21 and 22 put epoxy on the small end of the clip holder and insert right down into the tube.
23 I used a tube that was covered with wax and pushed the clip holder right down and then lightly clamped it, then POSITIONED the clip to look right, then slightly more pressure.
24. Set it to harden in an upright position for a while, after about 15 min  release the pressure and pull out the holding tube before it becomes part of the blank!!! even though it was waxed. then put it back in and hold it firmly but gently in the vice and let it set for another few hours, preferably until epoxy fully hardens.
25 and 26 the finished cap and the pen.
Any questions please just ask. thanks Amos


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## TurnaPen (Aug 22, 2009)

*Continued*

Continued from above
16 The clip is in.
17 The piece that normally fits in the clip and holds it in position, it needs to fit in easily and smoothly so
18 Remove a little on the lathe OR just sandpaper it until it slides easily.
19 A view of the clip inside the cap, the ring is visible
20 Using a cotton bud carefully put a decent dolop of 5 minute expoy right down on the clip
21 and 22 put epoxy on the small end of the clip holder and insert right down into the tube.
23 I used a tube that was covered with wax and pushed the clip holder right down and then lightly clamped it, then POSITIONED the clip to look right, then slightly more pressure.
24. Set it to harden in an upright position for a while, after about 15 min release the pressure and pull out the holding tube before it becomes part of the blank!!! even though it was waxed. then put it back in and hold it firmly but gently in the vice and let it set for another few hours, preferably until epoxy fully hardens.
25 and 26 the finished cap and the pen.
Any questions just ask, thanks Amos


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## Dai Sensei (Aug 22, 2009)

Thanks Amos, exactly what I wanted to know


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## cinder_ladylocket (Aug 22, 2009)

AHHHHH, well way over my head or ability but was nice to see it hands on idea. Very beautiful in the end for sure.


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## mickr (Aug 22, 2009)

thanks Amos..I had a $$$ moment when I saw you did not use the expensive writing end..I couldn't do it, would make me cringe!!! Can do it on many pens, but not a 50.00 pen!!! grand tutorial


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## rjwolfe3 (Aug 22, 2009)

Wow that is awesome!


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## glycerine (Aug 23, 2009)

That's really nice!


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## skiprat (Aug 23, 2009)

Excellent Amos!!!:wink:
Only one question... why do you need to reduce the diameter of the clip bush? Would it work if you pressed it into the tube first and instead of clamping on the end of the tube, you'd use something as a spacer down inside the tube to press on the bush till the glue has dried? Am I missing something?:redface::biggrin:


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## TurnaPen (Aug 23, 2009)

Steven, not sure if you mean the diameter of the ring, if it is left as is, makes it very difficult to insert it and make it fit, it tends to grab inside and more force is required with danger of breaking the blank. Amos


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## philb (Aug 23, 2009)

Great idea and guide!

Just wondering what sort of way you could do the hole in the blank? As you use a last engraver, would a hacksaw blade or similar work, just less accurately?

Phil


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## RussFairfield (Aug 23, 2009)

There will be an article on doing the "Invisible Clip" in the next issue of the AAW Journal, "The American Woodturner." Should be out in early September, and it will most likely be posted on the PMG site soon after that.

I use a dremel Tool, a dental pick, coping saw blade, or a woodburning tip to make the slot. They all work, but I prefer the woodburner because it is clean and fast.


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## TurnaPen (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks Russ, your articles and workman ship are excellent, I was about to suggest the article in out IAP where a ONE tooth blade was used. Amos


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## workinforwood (Aug 29, 2009)

I think you can't have too many different takes on how something is done.  I'd like to see the Amos technique in the IAP library and the Russ technique as well!


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## TurnaPen (Aug 31, 2009)

Both in Library now, Amos


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## Sylvanite (Aug 31, 2009)

That is a beautiful pen.  I actually prefer the double-closed end on your emperor.  The regular ends have too much bling - this one sets off the wood just right.

To keep from lasering through the other side, why not slip a brass tube (or sacrificial dowel) up into the blank past the cut?  A C02 laser won't cut brass so there would be no risk of damaging the flip-side.

Sometimes I wish the laser would cut brass - it would be much easier to cut the slot in a closed-end rifle cartridge that way.  Instead, I use a dremel, modified hacksaw blade, and diamond file.

Good job!
Eric


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## johncrane (Aug 31, 2009)

Well done Amos! and Congrats l also agree with Jeff.


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