# Brick wall design segment?



## USAFVET98 (Apr 1, 2009)

A while back I saw on a thread, a blank that was made to look like a brick wall. Anyone know how to set type of blank up. I know how to do a checkerboard blank, but the brick is throwing me off.


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## hewunch (Apr 1, 2009)

This works best when you make two blanks at once IMO
Take two woods that are the main "bricks". I used Jabota and Spanish Cedar. very close colors. Then cut both down the middle lengthwise take one of each and glue in a piece of veneer for a "mortar joint". Flip the blank 90 degrees. Do it again. Then do 45 degrees and then 90 degrees. So you should have something that looks like an asterik except it has 8 points. Every other piece is one wood. Then glue it like a stair step segment but put a piece of veneer between each layer. Hope that helps.


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## igran7 (Apr 1, 2009)

Dang Hans, I was going to recommend you as the expert to ask after remembering your Brickwall and stained glass pen, but you beat me to the punch.


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## hewunch (Apr 1, 2009)

Thanks Joe, I am far from an expert, just one way to do it.


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## hunter-27 (Apr 1, 2009)

I got lost at "Take two woods"............


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## hewunch (Apr 1, 2009)

I wish I had pictures. Sorry. The big point is a slice of veneer between each cut. I do 4 cuts lengthwise through the blank then a piece between each layer of the stair step.


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## fiferb (Apr 1, 2009)

Is this what you're looking for?
http://content.penturners.org/articles/2004/osbornesegpen.pdf


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## hewunch (Apr 1, 2009)

That is much easier than what I am talking about, but mine looks more like a brickwall. I would HIGHLY suggest doing one like what Bruce put up first.


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## USAFVET98 (Apr 1, 2009)

hewunch said:


> That is much easier than what I am talking about, but mine looks more like a brickwall. I would HIGHLY suggest doing one like what Bruce put up first.


 
I have done regular step like that. I really want to learn the brick wall meathod. Thanks Bruce for the link. 

Im having trouble understanding your instructions. Do you have a phot of the pen.


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## hewunch (Apr 2, 2009)

Here is a picture of the pen. Like I said, maybe I can make a blank soon and take pictures during the process.


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## babyblues (Apr 2, 2009)

You could cut a pen blank in half lengthwise and laminate it back together with a thin piece of a different wood in the middle.  Flip it 90deg and cut it in half again lengthwise, laminating it back together with a thin piece of a different wood in the middle.  Then cut it into pieces widthwise and glue them back together with a thin piece of a different wood in between each piece with each piece rotated 45deg from the previous piece.  At least that's how you could do it using the tutorial that Bruce posted.


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## hewunch (Apr 2, 2009)

babyblues your way would yield 4 bricks per layer. My way yields 8.


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## babyblues (Apr 2, 2009)

hewunch said:


> babyblues your way would yield 4 bricks per layer. My way yields 8.



Oh yes!  I get it now!  You make FOUR lengthwise cuts instead of just two, one every 45deg with laminate between each cut.  I couldn't understand what you meant by it looking like an asterick.  Then you cut it into pieces widthwise and glue them up with laminate in between with the pieces rotated.  I got ya now.


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## AceMrFixIt (Apr 2, 2009)

*Cuts*

 Is this what you mean on the cuts? This would be looking at the end of the blank.


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## hewunch (Apr 2, 2009)

AceMrFixIt said:


> Is this what you mean on the cuts? This would be looking at the end of the blank.


Yes! That is what it looks like at the end of the blank. Then put a piece of veneer between the slices as you glue it up.


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## AceMrFixIt (Apr 2, 2009)

If I understand, you have to do both diagnial cuts before you glue them together.??


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## gketell (Apr 2, 2009)

*4 segments*

this is what 4 segments with a 0.1" inlay looks like.




gk


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## hewunch (Apr 2, 2009)

AceMrFixIt said:


> If I understand, you have to do both diagnial cuts before you glue them together.??


No you glue it back each time you cut.


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## CSue (Apr 6, 2009)

I think I understand this . . . FINALLY.  Thanks for the link and the tips and pictures.  It really helps me "see how it's done."


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## gomeral (Apr 6, 2009)

gketell said:


> this is what 4 segments with a 0.1" inlay looks like.



DANG that's a good looking pen.  :wink:



daniel


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## workinforwood (Apr 8, 2009)

Greg's photography of that pen is the best photo of a pen EVER!!!  I'm so jealous of that.  When I was spying and fooling around with those California guys during the birthday bash, they had some photo's of that brick pen in progress.  It's in the California section of the Local Chapters.  Look for a thread about a collaberation pen.  Shouldn't be too far down their list as it wasn't too long ago.


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## MattDaddy (Apr 22, 2009)

Here is a pen I did to look like a castle using Black Walnut and a red veneer wood for the mortar lines.


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## GouletPens (Apr 22, 2009)

What's the best way to cut it, a bandsaw?


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## hewunch (Apr 22, 2009)

GouletPens said:


> What's the best way to cut it, a bandsaw?



That is what I used With a high tooth blade (more teeth= smoother cut)


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## MattDaddy (Apr 22, 2009)

I have been cutting with a high tooth bandsaw blade, but just picked up a Proxxon Mini Table Saw that cuts amazingly thin slices and NO SANDING


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## soccer2010 (Aug 2, 2009)

I saw the Proxxon Mini Table Saw priced around $200.  Is it a lot better than using a good bandsaw?


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## GouletPens (Aug 3, 2009)

soccer2010 said:


> I saw the Proxxon Mini Table Saw priced around $200. Is it a lot better than using a good bandsaw?


 I've heard the Byrnes tablesaw is even better. I don't have either though so take my free advice for what its worth:tongue:


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## jkeithrussell (Aug 3, 2009)

GouletPens said:


> I've heard the Byrnes tablesaw is even better. I don't have either though so take my free advice for what its worth:tongue:


 
I made one with a narrow 7" blade (about 3/32") on a table saw using the Incra Miter Express sled/miter gauge system.  Tighter control over the cut with the table saw than you can achieve with a band saw.


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