# Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus



## Razorburne (Jan 19, 2016)

For those of you who use PP as a finish for your pens, do you only use the PP or do you first use the Walnut Finishing Oil as a sanding lubricant and follow it up with PP?  Do you finish with the microcrystalline wax?


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## TonyL (Jan 19, 2016)

I only use the PP, then the micro-abrasive wax. I believe some use the PP as a sanding lubricant and a finish. I found both to really have to heat up - esp. the MA wax.


I use it as I stated just really out of watching a few videos. I doubt "my" approach is best.


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## Rcflyer55 (Jan 19, 2016)

I sand with the walnut oil then use PP & finish with MA wax. 
I start with 120-150 to 600 then I use micro mesh pads to 12k. Probably overkill but I enjoy the time in front of the lathe.


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## beh1951 (Jan 19, 2016)

I sand from 320 thru 1000 using the walnut finishing oil as a sanding lubricant then pens plus. I put a small amount of microcrystal paste wax. TonyL is right you have to use friction and heat it up. I don't notice much difference in finish with the wax just extra protection I guess.


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## Razorburne (Jan 19, 2016)

@rcflyer55 & beh1951......this might seem like a really dumb question, but if you use micro mesh with the walnut oil then the micro mesh has to be dedicated for that finish moving forward right?  I Know you can wash micro mesh but does the oil actually come out of it to the point you could use it for something else (ie, wet sanding acrylic) or does the oil stay on the mesh and therefore dedicating the micro mesh to being used for walnut oil finish exclusively?


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 19, 2016)

I've done it all sorts of ways.  There are several different dynamics to the finish and different types of wood etc make a difference in my experience.  

I feel strongly that pens plus needs a very solid surface to be applied on.  The finish itself will not fill pores, open grain efc and doesn't really 'build heavily like ca will.  

The finish works well on dense woods like a cocobolo or especially Bethlehem olive wood.    Also stabilized woods are a great base.  Many of the woods we use though need some extra help before I'll effectively apply pens plus.   Walnut or an unstabilized Burl are two examples.  In this case, I'll use one of two approaches.  

1. I'll use pens plus between sanding grits.  Sand, wipe off (but don't blow off) dust then a good drop of pp on a paper towel.  After a couple times of this you're sanding down the polish as much as the wood.  The reason for not blowing off is so if there is any open grain the dust can sit in there and get mixed with the pp. 

The reason that I do this less now is that web I finish with a skew I only use a couple grits of sandpaper. 

So my preferred current method is to deal with a coat or two of thin ca - sanding between applications if necessary - and then apply pp over that.  The ca gives me the base I'm looking for.  

I've used the wax on ad off.  Not sure if it makes a difference or not.  

Get that last couple applications of finished heated up.   Preferably I'll let them sit a day or 2 before handling much, but again not sure if it makes a difference or not.  

Another great product to keep in the mix is the eee paste wax.  That's a great last step before the pens plus.   I can't say enough good about that product.


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## Razorburne (Jan 19, 2016)

@Dan...the Doctor himself in his video shows sanding with the walnut oil.  Do you think sanding in that fashion would help fill the grain before using the PP?  He claims the walnut oil polymerizes in the wood grain, so my quick assumption is that if you are creating a slurry and the oil is polymerizing, it might fill the grain?

I know it's not the process you use.  Just curious if thy makes sense or not


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 19, 2016)

Razorburne said:


> @Dan...the Doctor himself in his video shows sanding with the walnut oil.  Do you think sanding in that fashion would help fill the grain before using the PP?  He claims the walnut oil polymerizes in the wood grain, so my quick assumption is that if you are creating a slurry and the oil is polymerizing, it might fill the grain?  I know it's not the process you use.  Just curious if thy makes sense or not



It makes sense.  Look for the effect and experiment for the best method.  

As I said, the important factor is a solid surface.  

It seems to me that most of what I've read about walnut oil is that it doesn't cure very quickly.  I think the friction along with the shellac helps the pp cure. 

But, the creator of this stuff is a chemist and I'm a pastor.  Lol. 

If I were you I'd surely give his method a solid try.


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## bjbear76 (Jan 20, 2016)

As other have noted, sometimes I'll sand with walnut oil depending on the wood.  For my projects, I'd say 75% of the time I don't.  As far as using the wax, I've tried it and didn't really see any difference.  Again, maybe it's primary purpose is additional protection.


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## TonyL (Jan 20, 2016)

bjbear76 said:


> As other have noted, sometimes I'll sand with walnut oil depending on the wood.  For my projects, I'd say 75% of the time I don't. * As far as using the wax, I've tried it and didn't really see any difference.*  Again, maybe it's primary purpose is additional protection.


 
I had the same experience. In fact, I found using the MA wax dulled (made more satin-like) the finish. I emailed the Doctor and was advised to really let the wax heat-up. After following his advice, I did observe a small improvement (in shine) over not using it. I would assume it provides some form of protection, but I am not sure how long it lasts. If I do use PP, I always follow-up with the wax. 

I hope this helps.


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## WalkOn (Jan 20, 2016)

I thought you folks might be interested in this article that Highland just came out with.  Kind of interesting.

Rick Morris | What's the "Right" Way to Use Friction Polish?

Kev


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## vtgaryw (Jan 20, 2016)

Based on Dan's review of PP some time back, I started using it and am very pleased.  I use several coats of CA on open grain woods, and have been very pleased with the results.  I have a daily use pen I finished this way over two years ago, it gets a lot of use and abuse, including in the workshop, and it has held up well.

Gary


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## WalkOn (Jan 20, 2016)

Before someone calls me a meathead.  I should mention that I’m not suggesting that the author of this article is right or wrong, or that anyone else is right or wrong.  It’s just an article that came out this afternoon, and I thought it would be of interest.  I’ve used Pen Plus on some of my stuff and I’ve had mixed results, so I keep looking for an approach that will work for me.

Kev


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## Razorburne (Jan 20, 2016)

Thanks for the article, Kev. Interesting read - thanks for sharing. Why would we call you a meathead?  Maybe I'm missing something.


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## TonyL (Jan 20, 2016)

WalkOn said:


> I thought you folks might be interested in this article that Highland just came out with.  Kind of interesting.
> 
> Rick Morris | What's the "Right" Way to Use Friction Polish?
> 
> Kev


 
Thank you Kev....good read!


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## campzeke (Jan 20, 2016)

When you say really heat it up, how are you doing that? I have been using a small piece of paper towel folded into about 4 layers and pinching it down on the blank as it is turning. That gets it hot enough that I can feel the heat through the paper towel. Is that enough or am I missing something?


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 20, 2016)

campzeke said:


> When you say really heat it up, how are you doing that? I have been using a small piece of paper towel folded into about 4 layers and pinching it down on the blank as it is turning. That gets it hot enough that I can feel the heat through the paper towel. Is that enough or am I missing something?



That's about it!


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## WalkOn (Jan 20, 2016)

Razorburne said:


> Thanks for the article, Kev. Interesting read - thanks for sharing. Why would we call you a meathead?  Maybe I'm missing something.



Thanks Gary & Tony.   Gary, maybe the meathead comment was over-the-top.  Deal is, I just didn't want anyone to think that I thought I'd found the answer to getting a nice finish with PP, or any other friction polish.  I'm a novice turner, so just wanted to pass the information on.

Thanks again,

Kev


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 20, 2016)

If you go to the gym but only ever do bench and curls, you're probably a meathead.  

If you've been kicked out of planet fitness, you might be a meathead.  Or some someone who looks like one.  

Haha. 

Just having some fun.


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## vtgaryw (Jan 21, 2016)

WalkOn said:


> Razorburne said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the article, Kev. Interesting read - thanks for sharing. Why would we call you a meathead?  Maybe I'm missing something.
> ...



Kev, I wasn't really commenting on the article at all, I found it interesting.  I was just sharing what I had personally learned about using PP.

Gary


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## WalkOn (Jan 21, 2016)

Sorry Gary. I messed up the post, I didn't mean to direct it to you.  I was just trying to respond to Razorburne.  Yesterday seemed to be one of those days when things just didn't go right, a very off-day.   

Again, sorry about that.

Kev


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## Razorburne (Jan 21, 2016)

@ Kev....I figured you meant the message for me but wasn't sure


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## USN Jet Mech (Jan 22, 2016)

WalkOn said:


> I thought you folks might be interested in this article that Highland just came out with.  Kind of interesting.
> 
> Rick Morris | What's the "Right" Way to Use Friction Polish?
> 
> Kev



Rick also has it posted on his YouTube channel, rickturns.  It is about a 30 min video and you can see more of the results.


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## wwneko (Jan 25, 2016)

https://youtu.be/fODxyikTrFA


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