# CA Finish



## Jmhoff10500 (Nov 16, 2009)

Where can I find instructions on how to achieve a sucessful CA Finish from the start?


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## nytefaii (Nov 16, 2009)

http://content.penturners.org/video/PenFin-Clip2-CAblo.wmv


There are lots of good videos in the library here.


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## Mark (Nov 16, 2009)

There are many answers, but I've used this method for the last four pens and really like the finished product. I found it on You Tube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54VkKcFRSWQ

"Russ Fairfields method of finish".


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## Len Shreck (Nov 16, 2009)

I think they are both the same Videos.   Len


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## dustmaker (Nov 16, 2009)

A diligent search of the archives will turn up more procedures than you can shake a stick at (DAMHIKT).  But as a newcomer I should warn you, the Holy Grail of CA finishing does not exist in any of these posts.  IMHO, if you want the Holy Grail to CA finishing it is this:
*Finish about a hundred pens.* 
That may sound harsh or a bit ridiculous, but I think what all the information on this site lacks is the inherent experience and skill needed.  There are many ways to achieve the CA finish, but there are also many variables to contend with:  lathe speed, temperature, humidity, viscosity of CA, age of CA, use of accelerant, use of BLO, sanding technique, application technique, and many more I have probably forgotten.  
I have made quite a few pens using various techniques, only a few ended up in the "not for sale" jar.  But most took a long time to get right.  As the number of pens increases I find it takes less time to achieve a good result because I am learning through experience and skill how the variables interact.  It is way too complex to spell out in words and I think some of it may be more intuition that anything.  
For example, I have found that it is important to get a good smooth coat of CA.  What works for me is to use just a drop or two of thin CA per blank at low speed while smoothing from the bottom with a piece of wax paper.  Now that sounds all very simple, but what I cannot explain well in words is the feel and visual experience that I undergo when I know I am doing it right.  It is just something I have begun to learn over the last twenty pens or so and I am still improving on.
So I hope this doesn't discourage you or anyone else from trying, that is not my intent.  Just know that CA finishing is not easy, but very rewarding.  It will take some time and practice to get to a somewhat repeatable process.  But stick with it and you will get there!  Just pick one of the many procedures folks here are using and then get to work. Don't concern yourself with how long it takes or how many coats you need, focus on the results you are looking for and don't quit until it is right. You will make nice pens. 
Now having said that, it is also a plus if you have an understanding spouse! :tongue:


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## Darrin (Nov 21, 2009)

Frank said everything I would have, only first.  I read and re-read everyones ways, tried them, then found my own way. It really does take a few atempts.


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## its_virgil (Nov 21, 2009)

Check the library:biggrin: You will find several articles. One of them is this one: http://www.redriverpens.com/pdf files/CA finish.pdf 
Do a good turn daily1
Don



Jmhoff10500 said:


> Where can I find instructions on how to achieve a sucessful CA Finish from the start?


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## leehljp (Nov 21, 2009)

Wow, several good explanations above. CA is VERY subjective and even the specific wordings are taken very subjectively by each reader, which makes for confusion and misapplication.

Read several methods, watch a couple of videos and then make it your goal to experiment. Let the goal be a CA finish during the experimentation, not the pen. Try this several times. Once this is done successfully several times, then a good CA finish will become just one step of pen making.

The problem with videos and descriptions is this:

Two or three drops is subjective; Paper Towels vary in quality and as applicators; pressure, light pressure, medium pressure are VERY subjective; sanding time (in seconds) is very subjective with pressure variances; Temp, humidity and wood type change the process also just enough to become frustrating if one is expecting the same results across the board.

Written and spoken word "degree of meanings" are different when it comes to individuals. Therefore, experiment and enjoy the discovery process.


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## george (Nov 22, 2009)

Choose one of the suggested ways and get back wiht detailed questions/problems. Guys on this site helped me achived very nice CA finish. Doe it took me some time and some questions.


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## fstinard (Nov 22, 2009)

Ask 20 woodworkers how to make a cabnit and youll get 20 anwsers ask 20 penturners how to do a ca finish and youll get about 50 diffrent anwsers. I have looked at sevral peoples ways been taught by two freinds (wolftat & greenmtguy) and have had to find my own way and it changes with each type and circumstance Frank said it best finish about 100 and youll know what you want to do with it


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## Bree (Nov 23, 2009)

its_virgil said:


> Check the library:biggrin: You will find several articles. One of them is this one: http://www.redriverpens.com/pdf files/CA finish.pdf
> Do a good turn daily1
> Don


 
The danger of this method is that when you apply the BLO first, that first application is now a *wood finish* and not a *CA accelerant and lubricant*.  Like any oil finish on wood, it must be allowed to dry or it greatly increases the chances of ghosting the finish.  If you use BLO or tung or other oil *before* you apply CA, let it dry overnight.

I made this mistake several times and ghosted out some beautiful blanks which ended up in the fireplace.
:wink::wink::wink:


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## dustmaker (Nov 23, 2009)

Bree said:


> The danger of this method is that when you apply the BLO first, that first application is now a *wood finish* and not a *CA accelerant and lubricant*.  Like any oil finish on wood, it must be allowed to dry or it greatly increases the chances of ghosting the finish.  If you use BLO or tung or other oil *before* you apply CA, let it dry overnight.
> 
> I made this mistake several times and ghosted out some beautiful blanks which ended up in the fireplace.
> :wink::wink::wink:



Agreed!  I put some teak oil on a black walnut blank.  Man did it pop the grain.  After a CA finish the blank looked 3D with a nice shimmer/chatoyance.  Didn't see the error of my way til the next day...brought it to work to gloat, and that's when I noticed the dullness in blotchy areas...not much of a gloat at that point.  A quick search here on the forums and I pin pointed the problem was the oil. :biggrin:  So a hearty thanks again to all forum participants, your posts help more than just the current viewers!


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