# I am looking for pictures of single start threaded pens



## alexkuzn (Sep 10, 2009)

Guys, 

some people here on this forum recommend to use single start tap and die for cap and barrel threading if you don't have multi start
On other hand other people say single start thread makes a week thread and a bad looking pen.

Does anyone have a picture of pen threaded with single start tap/die?

Thanks,
Alex


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## DCBluesman (Sep 10, 2009)

Dan Symonds often uses coarse, single start threads.  Here's a beauty.


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## workinforwood (Sep 10, 2009)

His threads are more than just course, they are super duper coarse and they look super duper too, if you ask me!  I also like how you barely have to turn it and it's on.  I do however think he's doing something different with his threading.  Part of how it looks so good is that the threads have no points.  I think he is using a very course tap and die and then filing the points down?  But that makes no sense because it wouldn't match the cap section even if he re-drilled it after threading.  Hmmmm.  Perhaps they are home made threads off a  metal lathe and instead of using pointed thread cutters he made a set of flat ones, or just ground down an old set to have flat teeth.  The spacing is very wide between the teeth so I'm going to guess he made his own special set of teeth for his lathe.  Or...I have no clue what I'm talking about! LOL


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## workinforwood (Sep 10, 2009)

Ah Hah...Thanks Lou!!  By clicking on his homepage, now I know who made that killer pen on the PMG site with all the great carving work.  It's truly and inspiration!  If I remember right, on the guild site it doesn't tell you the name of the person that made this pen, it's just a company name and clicking on it taks you nowhere.


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## alexkuzn (Sep 10, 2009)

Looks like ACME thread


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## hebertjo (Sep 10, 2009)

after reading his bio I would guess that the section threads are created with a CNC machine, as are all the designs on his pens. The cap threads are a far more interesting challenge! I have no idea how he accomplihed that. Very nice pens and doing your own threading open up more possibilities for kitless designs.


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## Chuck Key (Sep 10, 2009)

From the Birthday Bash contest:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showpost.php?p=812064&postcount=298

Chuckie


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## PTJeff (Sep 10, 2009)

Here you go:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51091
12x1.5


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## me2cyclops (Sep 10, 2009)

he actually built a thread mill similar to the beall system to cut them with a router/flexshaft
he briefly described the machine to me but wouldn't share pics :frown:


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## its_virgil (Sep 10, 2009)

Dan's threads are actually square. They work great, hold the cap in  place very well, are unique and different, and they look nice also. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don



DCBluesman said:


> Dan Symonds often uses coarse, single start threads.  Here's a beauty.


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## RussFairfield (Sep 11, 2009)

The full strength of the thread is developed with 3 to 5 threads engaged. That is 3 to 5 full turns on a single lead thread. The only advantage of the multiple lead thread is that it only takes 1 to 2 turns to get there. 

The disadvantage of the multiple lead thread is that the helix is a steeper angle and the threads are more likely to work loose. 

The advantage of the shallower helix on the single lead is that it is less likely to work loose.


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## holmqer (Sep 11, 2009)

Are ACME (Trapezoidal) threads or square threads less likely to unthread then 60 degree screw threads?



RussFairfield said:


> The full strength of the thread is developed with 3 to 5 threads engaged. That is 3 to 5 full turns on a single lead thread. The only advantage of the multiple lead thread is that it only takes 1 to 2 turns to get there.
> 
> The disadvantage of the multiple lead thread is that the helix is a steeper angle and the threads are more likely to work loose.
> 
> The advantage of the shallower helix on the single lead is that it is less likely to work loose.


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## greeneyedblackcat (Sep 11, 2009)

Something like this?


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## cnirenberg (Sep 11, 2009)

I don't have the multi start taps and dies yet, and have been using the HF set for all of my pens so far.  Here is a link to the last one.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50492


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## Chuck Key (Sep 11, 2009)

me2cyclops said:


> he actually built a thread mill similar to the beall system to cut them with a router/flexshaft
> he briefly described the machine to me but wouldn't share pics :frown:


 

Dremel works too.


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## alexkuzn (Sep 11, 2009)

Wow! Nice looking threads. What is the material that has threads?


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## alexkuzn (Sep 11, 2009)

Can somebody explain  why  cap threads on this pen body look very rough while the threads on a pen on the post above look VERY nice and clean? 
Is it because of low quality HF die that was used, different materials?


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## cnirenberg (Sep 11, 2009)

*Here is the REAL answer*

Because I am an idiot.  The threads on that pen were frickin perfect, they made commerical theads look like my kids chewed them up and crapped them 2 weeks later.  I had a chucking glitch and made a different type that grabbed the tenon instead of the inside.  It was made out of brass and ate the plastic tenon up.  Also there is some polish that got in there and I didn't clean it properly.  That is the truth from the idiot who made it.


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## cnirenberg (Sep 11, 2009)

Alex,
The quality of the HF taps have nothing to do with the threads as far as I can tell.  They are the single start type and work about as good as the ones in all the other stores.  The material does make a difference.  Some plastics are softer/more brittle than others (just like metal), and when colors/powdered pearls are added a whole new realm of "OH crap" becomes a reality.  
Here is an example, I made a custom tip/nib  like the one you see out of Exoticblanks' Alchemy blank.  the material threaded nicely,but the shape of the threads fell apart.  Why?  I don't know, maybe due to the colors/micas?  The thread was a M7x1.0.  I haven't had any problem with Alumilite, but didn't add all the wild stuff in there.  Who knows.  It polished up so nice nobody will ever know.


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## greeneyedblackcat (Sep 12, 2009)

The thread on this pen is 316 stainless and the collar below is T4 aluminum. Believe it or not my cutting fluid of choice for metal threads is Dextron II transmission fluid, I use it for just about everything from turning on my metal lathes to taps, dies and even the coolant in my metal cutting bandsaw. Its cheap and works great ! Sounds weird but it works for me.






alexkuzn said:


> Wow! Nice looking threads. What is the material that has threads?


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## greeneyedblackcat (Sep 12, 2009)

Here is another single starter. A jousting lance I built for Skippy. This one has only 3 threads


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## JJturns (Sep 24, 2009)

Alex the pen in this link is all single start threads.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51548
JJ


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## skiprat (Sep 24, 2009)

Here's two pens of mine. The blue one has home made 3 start threads
( you can see the steep helix ) and the green one ( for Mrs GreenEyedBlackCat:biggrin: ) has single threads.
I like single threads more and will use them exclusively from now on.


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## avbill (Sep 30, 2009)

Steven,  Why do you like the single thread over the multi- 3 start thread ?


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## JerrySambrook (Oct 4, 2009)

alexkuzn said:


> Can somebody explain  why  cap threads on this pen body look very rough while the threads on a pen on the post above look VERY nice and clean?
> Is it because of low quality HF die that was used, different materials?



Alex,
      Most resins do not lend themselves to being tapped nicely. They react better to machining.  Tapping is just simple scrapping off of material, like broaching. It TYPICALLY leaves an undesirable finish. However, you will almost always get a better finish by machining the threads onto the material.
The technique and lubrication of the material being tapped also has some degree in how the finish will be.  Do not try to tap in a single step, but you already know this, and a good amount of lubricant should be used. The reason for starting and stopping/pulling back is to break up the thread waste material into chips, so they remove easier, do not pull along any stress lines as readily, and do not readily fold over onto themselves which would destroy the threads.

By the way, that pen is nice, and the finish of the threads is good for a tapped surface.  

Just my .02

Jerry


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## skiprat (Oct 4, 2009)

avbill said:


> Steven,  Why do you like the single thread over the multi- 3 start thread ?



Apologies for the delay in answering this Bill. I just saw it now it's back on the list.

I guess I prefer them because;
1. the cap is less likely to come loose with single threads
2. you always know where the cap is going to finish when screwed on. ( no messing about trying to get the grain / pattern aligned.)
3. they are easier to make 
4. the tooling is infinately cheaper and more easily available

and I just prefer the 'look' of them too:biggrin:


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## alexkuzn (Oct 17, 2009)

I got a chance to finally try to thread acrylic myself. With an adjustable die I made three runs,  each time  with die been tighter. Threads where pretty good but looked somewhat matte compared to the rest of highly polished barrel. 

Then I've  polished threads with a tooth brush and some polishing compound moving with the threads not across them.

After 15 min. of polishing threads where perfect. No white "matte" look that you sometimes see on threaded plastic parts.


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## ldb2000 (Oct 18, 2009)

Try using Pam spray , I use the generic butter cooking spray , as a lubricant . It works very well for thread cutting on acrylics . It makes the threads very smooth and clean looking . 
Like these ; 









 

These threads are not polished . Take very small cuts and back off , it takes longer but produces very clean smooth threads . I add a little more spray every full turn .


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