# chuck stuck on head stock



## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

my chuck is stuck.

the 4 jaw chuck i use to hold onto my blanks is on there but GOOD.  I've bent one of those cheap pry bar things that came with it trying to screw it off.  

What the heck????

Never had this problem and as far as I can tell haven't done anything different.

Any ideas?
I'm stuck...


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## bensoelberg (May 24, 2012)

I've had my chuck get stuck a couple of times.  I got it off with a pipe wrench.  After that, I cut a 2.5 inch circle out of thick cardstock, cut a 1 inch circle in the middle, then cut a slit from the the outside to the inside circle so I could slip it onto my spindle behind the threads.  It serves as a thing gasket between the metal of the chuck and the metal of the headstock.  I know that some people do the same thing with delrin.  Good luck!


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

I like that idea w/ the card stock.

Will have to find a pipe wrench.
Thanks!


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## Displaced Canadian (May 24, 2012)

I use one of those really thin, flexible cutting boards and a hole saw to make mine. Works great.


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## Curly (May 24, 2012)

Put the bent bar back in and hit it hard with a big hammer or small sledge. That should shock it loose and might straighten the bar too. 

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner because I can't reach my desktop!


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## keithkarl2007 (May 24, 2012)

Technically its not really stuck just over tight. If you open the jaws of the chuck and use a short length of solid bar (or wood), lock the spindle and you should have good leverage to unscrew it, depending of the length of bar used.


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## OLDMAN5050 (May 24, 2012)

I have cut out some plastic washers from old tupperware and haven't had the problem . It stays on my head stock and I don't know it is there....... just in case it over tightens


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## desertrat (May 24, 2012)

Use a strap wrench (plumbers use them) on the headstock and lever wedged in the chuck jaw's.


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

keithkarl2007 said:


> Technically its not really stuck just over tight. If you open the jaws of the chuck and use a short length of solid bar (or wood), lock the spindle and you should have good leverage to unscrew it, depending of the length of bar used.




I thought about that but was worried the jaws would break off first.

I'll give it a go tonight.

Thanks for the washer advice, everybody!


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## keithkarl2007 (May 24, 2012)

watch_art said:


> keithkarl2007 said:
> 
> 
> > Technically its not really stuck just over tight. If you open the jaws of the chuck and use a short length of solid bar (or wood), lock the spindle and you should have good leverage to unscrew it, depending of the length of bar used.
> ...


 
If you tighten the jaws up to whatever you are going to use the jaws shouldn't break as they are taking the pressure evenly.


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## lorbay (May 24, 2012)

I know a lot will disagree on this but all of the professional turners I have spoken to or they have offered this info in a workshop will say never put anything between you chuck and head stock. It's just another place for run-out. I used to use the plastic washer but have since got rid of them. Now I just keep it clean and don't snap it on or start the lathe and let it spin on like Raffan does.

Lin.


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## hewunch (May 24, 2012)

Or have something that is machined like my washers


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

Okay - had the index pin engaged, headstock "locked" - piece of long wood in the chuck jaws.  Pushed down on it and snap.  Index pin broke.  Had to use pliers to pull pin out and turn to disengage index pin.  So now what?


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## KenV (May 24, 2012)

You have joined a long list of people you have discovered that the index system is not a spindle lock.  Glad the pin broke rather than the casting.  You may have damaged one hole though.

Most lathes have a place on the spindle for a wrench.  I like the thin bicycle repair style wrenches personally, but there is generally one with the lathe when purchased.

Use the wrench to hold or lock the spindle.  

To get the threads to release, use a block of hardwood -- about a 1 1/2 inch piece of maple turning stock between the jaws.  One about 18 or 24 inches long will give leverage  You want firm pressure as most all the force will be on 4 screws holding two jaws.  Breaking them is more of ugly.  Big heavy strap wrench around the chuck body works too.

Key is to change the behavior that causes over tightening of the chuck.


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## Andrew_K99 (May 24, 2012)

I picked up one of these with my last CSUSA order.  $2.25 and I shouldn't have to curse about a stuck on faceplate or chuck.

No-Lock Spindle Washer - Woodturners Catalog - Woodworking tools and supplies specializing in woodturning.=

AK


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## Andrew_K99 (May 24, 2012)

As for how to get it off ... lots of options.

Do you have a means to hold the headstock spindle from moving?  Big enough handle/wheel hopefully?

Do you have a socket set and a breaker bar?  Mount the socket in the chuck and put the breaker bar on it (a rachet should work just as well).  A chucked piece of wood that you could put a pair of vise grips on would also work.

Hold the handle/wheel as tight as possible with the breaker bar pointing out, slightly above parallel take one solid hit on the end of the breaker bar with a hammer (ideally a rubber mallet).  This should break it free ...


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## dow (May 24, 2012)

Andrew_K99 said:


> I picked up one of these with my last CSUSA order.  $2.25 and I shouldn't have to curse about a stuck on faceplate or chuck.
> 
> No-Lock Spindle Washer - Woodturners Catalog - Woodworking tools and supplies specializing in woodturning.=
> 
> AK



I made mine out of a piece of a plastic milk jug.  It lives on my spindle now.  Works great! :biggrin:

Oh, and welcome to the "Dangit I got my chuck stuck" club.  You've joined a long and illustrious group. :tongue:


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## SteveG (May 24, 2012)

I will second the idea of tapping on the breaker bar. The idea is to hold a significant amount of torque on the bar WHILE tapping. Maybe try a few drops of penetrating oil on the area that is "stuck".


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## Displaced Canadian (May 24, 2012)

Buy a second lathe and just keep the chuck where it is. :biggrin:


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

I was thinking about doing a second lathe - this might necessitate that.  :/

I soaked it with liquid wrench this morning.  Hopefully it'll come loose when I go out there in a minute to work on it.


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

now what.


you can see where the tool rest is.  I used it to prop the key bar against...




001 by snennewton, on Flickr


and you can see how that turned out...  




002 by snennewton, on Flickr




003 by snennewton, on Flickr




004 by snennewton, on Flickr


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## Justturnin (May 24, 2012)

I see the problem.  The vacuum is just sitting there watching and not helping....  I had this same issue w/ a faceplate a while back.  Took a couple of wrenches and a lot of patience not to tear it up.  One thing you can try is to go in reverse and see if you can tighten it a bit more.  This may be what you need to stretch the threads just a hair and get it to release.


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## D.Oliver (May 24, 2012)

You will have to excuse me, I suddenly realized that I need to go make something to put between my chuck and headstock........

Sorry about your misfortune Shawn.


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

I feel so completely useless right now.  I CAN'T work!


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## InvisibleMan (May 24, 2012)

D.Oliver said:


> You will have to excuse me, I suddenly realized that I need to go make something to put between my chuck and headstock........
> 
> Sorry about your misfortune Shawn.




Me too.  Ug, frustrating.


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## KenV (May 24, 2012)

What I do not see is a wrench on the flats of the spindle right next to the head stock.  

You cannot unthread the chuck with the tommy bars and a block in the jaws.  They are just working against each other.   Spindle needs to turn and that is directly next to the headstock.


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## Mapster (May 24, 2012)

Shawn, I have the same cheap chuck and have had the problem once. Although, I was able to get it off with just the tommy bars, I have an idea for you.

Turn your lathe on in the forward speed on the highest speed it has. Get a good leather glove or something of the sort and one of those hand strengtheners to get your grip ready. Once it is up to speed, turn it off and right after you do grab the spindle wheel on the left side of your belt box as hard as you can (where the glove comes in handy). Just be careful, it is not a good technique, but it may work. 

Also be aware that the chuck will come off quickly when it does, so protect the bed and the surroundings. I had this happen when I shut my lathe off once and the chuck flew off rather quickly and proceeded to denting our concrete floor. So be very careful, but let me know if this works for you. The centrifugal force can do a lot for you.


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

KenV said:


> What I do not see is a wrench on the flats of the spindle right next to the head stock.
> 
> You cannot unthread the chuck with the tommy bars and a block in the jaws.  They are just working against each other.   Spindle needs to turn and that is directly next to the headstock.



DOH!!
Why haven't I used the spanner wrench??!!


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

KenV said:


> What I do not see is a wrench on the flats of the spindle right next to the head stock.



Just went out there and looked.  There are no flats.    Just round.




005 by snennewton, on Flickr




006 by snennewton, on Flickr


What a sad picture!  




007 by snennewton, on Flickr

and I cut the pin out so it's good and out of the way.




008 by snennewton, on Flickr


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## thewishman (May 24, 2012)

Mapster said:


> Shawn, I have the same cheap chuck and have had the problem once. Although, I was able to get it off with just the tommy bars, I have an idea for you.
> 
> Turn your lathe on in the forward speed on the highest speed it has. Get a good leather glove or something of the sort and one of those hand strengtheners to get your grip ready. Once it is up to speed, turn it off and right after you do grab the spindle wheel on the left side of your belt box as hard as you can (where the glove comes in handy). Just be careful, it is not a good technique, but it may work.
> 
> Also be aware that the chuck will come off quickly when it does, so protect the bed and the surroundings. I had this happen when I shut my lathe off once and the chuck flew off rather quickly and proceeded to denting our concrete floor. So be very careful, but let me know if this works for you. The centrifugal force can do a lot for you.




Marshall, I'm afraid of this advice - too much potential for injuries. A 10 pound chuck flying around could cause a lot of damage.


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## Mapster (May 24, 2012)

thewishman said:


> Marshall, I'm afraid of this advice - too much potential for injuries. A 10 pound chuck flying around could cause a lot of damage.



Yes, it is potentially dangerous. It is a final option sort of thing, if nothing else works, then it may be worth a shot. With the proper safety precautions it would turn out alright. Trust me, I wouldn't recommend it in a normal situation, but this calls for drastic measures.

It is just an idea Shawn, if you don't feel comfortable with it then by no means should you do it, but it just might work


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## Mapster (May 24, 2012)

Shawn, does the headstock spindle have the holes on both sides? If so you could lock the piece of wood between two objects or in a vice or something of the sort and use two of the tommy bars, one in each hole. That would give you more power and make it less likely that you would bend the bars. I would imagine a jerky kind of motion would work better than steady pressure. You don't need to power through it, you just need to free it up slightly.


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

Mapster said:


> Shawn, does the headstock spindle have the holes on both sides? If so you could lock the piece of wood between two objects or in a vice or something of the sort and use two of the tommy bars, one in each hole. That would give you more power and make it less likely that you would bend the bars. I would imagine a jerky kind of motion would work better than steady pressure. You don't need to power through it, you just need to free it up slightly.



That's not a bad idea.  I may just try this.  
I'm pretty disgusted about the whole thing though.  First night all week I'm feeling awake enough to stay up and work and I can't.  :frown:

I could go draw or something huh.  :biggrin:


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## Curly (May 24, 2012)

Have you got an impact driver?

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner because I can't reach my desktop!


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## randyrls (May 24, 2012)

I sometimes confuse left and right or try to turn things in the wrong direction.  The chuck is turned down in front as it sits on the lathe.

Get two rubber strap wrenches.  Wrap one rubber strap around the spindle shaft and one around the chuck in opposite directions.  You can put quite a bit of torque on the two pieces.  If you have the shaft off the lathe, you might need someone to steady the parts while you put the force on them.

If there are no plastic pieces, an alternative is to put the entire thing in the oven and heat it, then dip the shaft in cold water.  Wear thick gloves.   The shaft will shrink and may release the grip on the chuck threads.


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## watch_art (May 24, 2012)

I may end up doing the rubber strap thing.
Hmmm....

I put the lathe back together - so wouldn't need any helping hands.


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## KenV (May 25, 2012)

Strap wrenches work well -- they come with both cloth (cotton or nylon, with cotton working better) or with heavy rubber bands.   You want big thick bands.  They become the "spanner".

Have not worked with that Delta -- the Jet and Stubby do have provision for the "spanner" and have needed it on occasion,


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

Hopefully my mechanic has some rubber wrenches I can borrow.  :/


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## Penl8the (May 25, 2012)

How are about something like this?  They are not expensive --> STRAP WRENCH RUBBER 2PC SET - Busy Bee Tools

Or here 2 Piece Rubber Strap Wrench Set



watch_art said:


> Hopefully my mechanic has some rubber wrenches I can borrow. :/


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

Nice.


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## glycerine (May 25, 2012)

From the looks of the bent pin, it looks like you might have been turning the chuck the wrong way, is that possible?  Are you sure your "unscrewing" in the right direction?


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## Andrew_K99 (May 25, 2012)

In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."

Did you then attempt to turn the wood?


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## txbob (May 25, 2012)

Have you tried heating it with a hair dryer? Or, since it's apart, in a toaster oven on low?
Bob


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

glycerine said:


> From the looks of the bent pin, it looks like you might have been turning the chuck the wrong way, is that possible?  Are you sure your "unscrewing" in the right direction?



Definitely.  Lefty loosey. 



Andrew_K99 said:


> In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."
> 
> Did you then attempt to turn the wood?



I put the key bar in the hole, the handle against the tool rest as close as I could get it, then pulled down to the front with the bar of wood.  It just made bending the bars that much easier.

I don't have a toaster oven - but the heat gun trick might work.

This is so frustrating.  I'm supposed to be working, not fixing.


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## tomas (May 25, 2012)

watch_art said:


> glycerine said:
> 
> 
> > From the looks of the bent pin, it looks like you might have been turning the chuck the wrong way, is that possible? Are you sure your "unscrewing" in the right direction?
> ...


 
You might try a drift punch instead of the key bar since the punch is made from hardened steel.

Tomas


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## Andrew_K99 (May 25, 2012)

watch_art said:


> Andrew_K99 said:
> 
> 
> > In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."
> ...


Unless I am missing something, doing this would do absolutely nothing except bend the bars as these pieces are connected.

You need to hold/lock the shaft somehow ... a leather belt (or spare inner tube from a bike) looped once around then twisted tight could accomplish this then pull down on the wood piece you have mounted in the chuck.

AK


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

Andrew_K99 said:


> watch_art said:
> 
> 
> > Andrew_K99 said:
> ...



I put the tommy bar thing in the hole of the shaft, not the hole of the chuck, then pull down on the chuck to lefty loose it, which just bent the tommy bars.

I'll try the hardened steel bars if the rubber strap tool thing doesn't work.

School is out now so I should have plenty of time for fooling with this thing.


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

*YEEE HAAAW!!!*

GOT IT!




001 by snennewton, on Flickr


So I dug through my junk, ahem, TOOL box to find this big old rusty bar, ground the point to be straight and blunt, and stuck the wood back in the jaws on the chuck, and pushed with the left hand pulled with the right and WHAM!  My knuckles slammed against the shelf and the thing was LOOSE! 

yaaay!!!!!

thanks!


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## glycerine (May 25, 2012)

Good to hear!  Sorry about the knuckles!


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

I'm so happy to have it apart I already forgot that I busted my knuckles.


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## KenV (May 25, 2012)

Cheers!!!!!!    Cheers!!!!!!!

Have never had the chuck set that hard -- but can appreciate your sucess!!!!!


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## robutacion (May 25, 2012)

I have been reading this thread from the beginning, and I could feel your pain, was not point in me saying anything as all I know about it as been said/suggest to you and for every attempt you made and come back with a negative result, it really brought strongly damn flash backs for one particular time where I was as stuck as you on my Nova 1624-44.

Catches are what makes the chucks to over-tight and if making pens can tight chucks, image what a 16" round chunk on wood at about 20kg will do to a chuck thread when you get a "nasty" catch...! 

I started to make my own bushes out of plastic but, I decided to buy the proper bushes as per a link already provided and, I can tell you that was the best thing I ever done as I can't void some nasty catches but I can now void the chuck to get stuck as every time it needs to come out, it does that without any fuss...!

Hope you learn your lesson, I certainly learn mine...!

Cheers
George


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## watch_art (May 25, 2012)

Yeah - there was a lot of pain for a while.  I just internalized it.  

I guarantee I'll never spin the chuck on the headstock again.  I also made a gasket from some thick plastic and a piece of chip board (like cereal box).  
I need to get a couple proper pieces of tommy bar though.  Those bent bits and that home made bar won't cut it for long.


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## scotirish (May 26, 2012)

*I have never had a chuck get stuck but have had face plates get stuck.  I found that a little heat from a propane torch will usually loosen them up.  I don't recommend using a gasket between the chuck and the head (unless using an aluminum face plate) as it permits a wobble in the chuck, although very small it can cause a problem in getting the work straight.  :biggrin::biggrin:
Ron *


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## frank123 (May 26, 2012)

A light coat of anti seize compound (that metallic looking thick oily stuff that contains atomized lead) applied to the mating surfaces of the Chuck will prevent this, I think that the Teflon containing pipe thread dope would work as well if lead bothers you.

If you've got something stuck that should come free but won't, Kroil (a brand of penetrating oil will do amazing things (for rusted stuff too).  Usually available at gunsmith suppliers and some hardware stores as well.


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## Mapster (May 26, 2012)

Take the tommy bars and cut off the bent ends, then you have shortened versions of the same tommy bars! They work fine in normal circumstances


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## watch_art (May 26, 2012)

I think that, along with the cheap tommy bars, a thick and nasty accumulation of dirt and funk had grown up on the threads and flat spot on the spindle.  I scraped all of that off.  I need to clean it off more often.


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## Dustygoose (May 27, 2012)

Glad to hear you got it.


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