# Finishing allumite swirl/burl blanks



## barrysj (Feb 28, 2010)

I would like to find out what techniques folks are using to finish the swirl blanks ankrom et al sell.

Here's my method:

1.  After turning, sand with 320 abranet.
2.  Stop lathe and sand lengthwise until all circular scratches are gone and you have lengthwise scratches
3.  repeat 1-2 with 400 and 600 abranet
4.  Move to MM and wet sand all the way to 12000 grit (again stopping the lathe and sanding lengthwise between grits until you remove all circular scratches
5.  COMPLETELY dry the blank
6.  Apply med CA with Viva paper towel or blue paper shop towel
7.  Apply 3 short bursts of accelerator
8. allow 5-10 seconds for it to take effect
9.  Wipe with clean paper towel while lathe is spinning
10 repeat steps 6-9 six to seven times

At this point I have tried two separate methods with about the same results

MM way:
11.  Repeat step 4 
12.  Take a parting tool and carefully chip off CA stuck on your bushings (yes I have derlin bushings on order)
13.  Take the blank off the lathe and CAREFULLY twist the bushings off.  If they don't come off a light tap off the bushings on your tool rest can shake them free, but be careful because you can crack your finish.  If it won't free up, put it back on the lathe and use the parting tool again.
14.  Take the 12000 grit MM and "stroke" the ends of the blank at a 45 degree angle to get rid of any CA on the ends.

Alternate way
11. Use the first grade MM with water and get the finish smooth
12.  Take a parting tool and carefully chip off CA stuck on your bushings (yes I have derlin bushings on order)
13.  Take the blank off the lathe and CAREFULLY twist the bushings off.  If they don't come off a light tap off the bushings on your tool rest can shake them free, but be careful because you can crack your finish.  If it won't free up, put it back on the lathe and use the parting tool again.
14.  Take the 12000 grit MM and "stroke" the ends of the blank at a 45 degree angle to get rid of any CA on the ends.
15. Use fine plastic polish stick for plastics from caswel on a flannel canton buff
16. Buff upwards "cutting stroke" until most scratches are gone (medium pressure)
17. move to other canton wheel with ultra gloss plastic polish bar from caswel (George has a post on the exact set up)
18.  Use cutting stroke until almost happy
19.  Use "color" downward stroke for the ultimate shine.


Both methods work pretty well.  The Buffing method can save time (if you don't lose your blank at 3000 rpm bouncing off your bench).  I'm fairly happy with the outcome...much more shine than the blo/ca method, but still very very small scratches with a very discerning eye under bright light.  I want to get better.

It should be noted that both methods work for normal wood as well, I just don't do step 4.

I used to let each coat of CA dry and let the final coat dry for 24 hours, but on some of the oily woods, the CA dried too slow and fogged.  For me, this method has been very repeatable.

The question I have is ...do I really need to do step 4 to polish the allumite sides of the swirl blanks, or can I just sand to 600 grit and start applying CA?  I know with furniture and poly, you sand the poly between steps.  Although it leaves scratches, the next coat of poly fills them in and you can polish to a nice shine.  Can we do the same with these swirl blanks?  Will CA cover scratches in allumite? It just seems like the "plastic" side of these swirl burl blanks need to be scratch free prior to applying CA.

Hope this helps new folks looking for a repeatable high gloss finish.

and I hope Turntex, ankrom, george, et al can help us out and share their skills in this area.....

v/r
-Dude

Steve Barry


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## barrysj (Mar 1, 2010)

Saw another thread that answered one of my questions:  posted here in case someone uses this thread...

"You do not need the Alumilite to be completely sanded. I dry sand to 600, then clean the blank real well with CA accelerator, then apply 2 coats of thin CA and 4 coats of medium CA. I then sand it out like I would any other CA finish. The CA will fill any of the small scratches left in the resin and make them go away without any problems.

At least that has been my experience and I have been doing them for a while!"  quoted from Curtis at Turntex


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## Scoots (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks.  I had missed Curtis' original post, and it's helpful information to know.


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## toddlajoie (Mar 11, 2010)

I just received my first wood/acrylic swirl blanks, and was going to post a question here asking about finishing it, but as all things I've found here, someone has been where I am before me, and done me the favor of paving the way. Thanks for the info!!!


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## barrysj (Mar 11, 2010)

Just tried the method of not worrying about the sanding scratches as Curtis mentioned and it worked like a charm.  Halved my work load!

Still waiting on a good buffing tutorial as I can't seem to get that perfect shine to the naked eye with either the MM way or the Buffing way.  I suspect some of it may to do with me not waiting for the CA to totally cure prior to buff (24 hours)....but still need a good technique as I'm new to the buffing side of things....


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## bitshird (Mar 11, 2010)

I wouldn't wet sand until I had some CA to seal the wood, 600 grit dry and then sanded lengthwise to remove radial scratches then a wipe down with accelerator and let it sit for a while before applying the CA. reason dictates that the wood will still have more vapor from the accelerator that the Alumilite, and MIGHT give an uneven coat of CA.
After a few coats of CA then wet sand, but make sure you have enough so you don't cut through.


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## DJ2759 (Mar 16, 2010)

*Alumilite*

I bought several of these blanks and turned one last night. I had a greyish dust or residue develop when I sanded and it stained the wood. Is this normal?


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## barrysj (Mar 17, 2010)

One of the reason I use abranet instead of sandpaper is to take care of this issue.  But, you still need to be careful clean between each grit and if you sand for long stints of time, you could be grinding the alumilite dust into the wood, so a little spritz of accelerator to clean once in a while helps....  Specially with light colored woods.  The other potential and more likely contamination could be from sanding your bushings a bit and the steel dust being grinded into the blank.

-Dude


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