# Why BLO?



## The Falcons Quill (Aug 4, 2015)

I have yet to try the CA/BLO combo. What are its advantages over using just a CA finish? I understand it's to soak on and make grain pop, but if I do a couple coats of thin CA wouldn't that give me the same effect?


I am always looking to improve my work so any idea would be helpful.


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## JimB (Aug 4, 2015)

For me I use the ca/BLO combo because the BLO helps the ca go on smoother and also eliminates the paper towel from sticking to the blank.  I don't really use it to pop the grain.

I know some people get the ca to go on very smooth without using BLO.


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## KenV (Aug 4, 2015)

The oil forms a polymer with the CA that seems to be less brittle and goes on smoother.  I have been using walnut oil used as a bowl finish instead of boiled linseed oil for the last few months with good effect.

Any ca finish does need some cure time ---


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## chartle (Aug 4, 2015)

Question do you put a new layer of BLO with every layer of CA.

I've only put on one coat and then multiple CA coats.


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## The Falcons Quill (Aug 4, 2015)

With using BLO with my CA does it mean I can't use an aerosol accelerator to make the CA cure faster?


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## 1080Wayne (Aug 4, 2015)

Thin CA will give the same darkening effect on many medium to dark woods . However BLO on a wood such as holly will give a darker finish than straight CA . Personally , I stay away from accelerator , BLO or no BLO .


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## KenV (Aug 4, 2015)

chartle said:


> Question do you put a new layer of BLO with every layer of CA.
> 
> I've only put on one coat and then multiple CA coats.




I have never needed accelerator to get the CA-Oil polymer to form and be stable --  of course you CAN use it -- but why?  

Plan that there will always be an excess of either CA or oil -- and I opt to be a bit generous with the oil to assure there is plenty to react with.  I can usually get a second application of CA from a few drops of oil.  I can see the reaction happening and the surface smoothing.  

Curing is a slower process that happens over a few days with any finish -  including straight CA (search on outgassing which is a product of the CA continuing to cure and producing gasses for a few days)


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## triw51 (Aug 4, 2015)

The Falcons Quill said:


> With using BLO with my CA does it mean I can't use an aerosol accelerator to make the CA cure faster?


 
In my understanding BLO  is an accelerator and as Ken said it fuses with the CA to form a polymer.  I have used this as a finish and have had no problems.

"Question do you put a new layer of BLO with every layer of CA."

I use several thin layers of CA between BLO layers.  
Just my 2 cents


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## wouldentu2? (Aug 4, 2015)

BLO on maple leaves a yellow tint to the wood.


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## TonyL (Aug 4, 2015)

less or no sanding, no accelerator. potentially less coats of CA  needed. I don't get a super high loss finish, but it is not a satin finish either.


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## edstreet (Aug 4, 2015)

Or you could use a CA brand that yields same effects with out BLO needed.


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## TonyL (Aug 5, 2015)

Just bought and since used the BSI brand and I have been very please. And their accelerator.


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## Wildman (Aug 5, 2015)

Have never used anything but medium CA and never had a problem using CA as a finish no matter which procedure used. Have never used accelerator so don’t have any experience with it.  Have used BLO or MO/ (mineral oil) with CA to finish pens and no oil at all CA finish.   

Today will not use CA as a finish because have a sensitivity to the stuff.  Besides do not think should stay with one finishing material for every pen you turn.  

So do try finishing without oil, it worked for me.


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## RedBeard (Aug 5, 2015)

chartle said:


> Question do you put a new layer of BLO with every layer of CA.
> 
> I've only put on one coat and then multiple CA coats.



My typical finish schedule is to start out with an application of straight BLO then an application of CA. With every subsequent application I put a drop of BLO onto the paper towel and then a few drops of CA onto it. Then I  quickly rub it back and forth on the wood until it goes from shiny to dull. I guess in actuality I'm apply both at the same time.



The Falcons Quill said:


> With using BLO with my CA does it mean I can't use an aerosol accelerator to make the CA cure faster?


With BLO you won't need the accelerator....at least I've never found that I needed it. In fact I don't even have the stuff in my shop.


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## TonyL (Aug 5, 2015)

FWIW:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54VkKcFRSWQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiIkRztylFc

Enjoy!


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## Skie_M (Aug 10, 2015)

I use a Minwax brand stain and seal to finish my pens just before I start applying the CA.  I'm pretty sure that there's some boiled linseed oil in that can...  All I know is that I apply the stain (natural color) and while it's still wet on the wood blank, I apply a coat of CA (harbor freight brand superglue is all I use).  I follow that up with 5 - 8 more coats of CA and then wet sand 1000 grit to remove any ridges, and then jump to micromesh 3200 up to 12000, apply PlastX and Turtlewax and I'm done.

The minwax brings a beautiful wet gloss look to the wood and fills in any small open pores, while the superglue gives long-lasting durability and a glassy shine that is waterproof and easy to maintain.


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## Russ Hewitt (Aug 14, 2015)

I use walnut oil.  It doesn't darken the wood, and works just as good as BLO.  I was spending top dollar for two tone Amboyna burl blanks, and BLO would darken the sapwood so you could hardly see the two tone effect.  Walnut oil lets the natural color of the wood stand out, but still brings out the pop.


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## Jimmykoko2 (Aug 15, 2015)

TonyL said:


> FWIW:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54VkKcFRSWQ
> ...



Great videos TonyL. I have made several pens using the thin CA glue. But it drys so fast the paper will stick to the blank if I'm not real fast? In these videos the turner doesn't seem to worry about getting it applied and removing the paper towel? Am I using the wrong type CA glue?


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## Skie_M (Aug 15, 2015)

Jimmykoko2 said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> > FWIW:
> ...



As the boiled linseed oil and the cyanoacrylate react to each other, they get very hot, and the CA cures extremely fast on the blank where they mix.  The time you have to work it isn't super long, but thin CA glue usually has a working time of 15 - 20 seconds before it has set.  Mixing with BLO gives you about 3 -  seconds of working time, which is enough in pen making to go back and forth over the pen barrels twice, at least.  You'll notice if the pad you are using is starting to stick to your work piece and you'll develop a sense of timing for it pretty quick.

If you make a mistake, it's not the end of the world ... grab some 400-grit or 500-grit paper and a bowl of water (protect your lathe bed when you wet-sand), and sand off the paper towel that's stuck to the blank.  When you apply your next layer of CA, the scratch marks left by the wet sanding will disappear completely.


The superglue that I use is just the standard stuff that is offered by Harbor Freight Tools.  Not a large bottle .... nope, not for me ... I use those little applicator tubes.

If you get a big bottle and leave the top open, you lose a lot of the product .... if I leave the cap off a tube, I toss it and grab another.   Also, can you actually use up that WHOLE bottle before the last of it turns solid on you?  I'm always emptying the last bit out of my tubes, so my waste is much lower ...

As Jamie Hieneman (Mythbusters co-host) always says about his superglue ... "Using a little at a time is a lot better than losing a lot at a time".  He always gets those little "single project" applicators to use, and I think his idea was a good one.


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## sbwertz (Aug 15, 2015)

Check out William O. Young's video on CA/BLO.  It will answer a lot of the questions

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc


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## Pkweiss (Nov 7, 2015)

I have a segmented blank with resin and wood. If I used blo, would there be any negative effect on the resin? 

Phil


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## alphageek (Nov 7, 2015)

This is the best article that I know of that answers most of this question:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/ca-blo-blo-ca-25250/


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## jttheclockman (Nov 7, 2015)

Pkweiss said:


> I have a segmented blank with resin and wood. If I used blo, would there be any negative effect on the resin?
> 
> Phil




Phil welcome to the site from another Garden Stater. I would probably not be the one to fully answer your question because I do not find a need to use blo when working with CA as a finish. With that said there are 2 ways to look at it. The first way is being an oil,will it have a negative effect on the glue sticking to the resin and my guess is yes. You are not really mixing CA with blo when applying a finish. What you are creating is a smoothing effect for the CA to spread out nicer. I always thought that was the reason for its use. Now it reacts with the CA and causes a heating reaction to help the CA dry faster. Not cure faster just dry faster. 

Now the second way to look at it after the first coat on wood you basically are gluing glue to glue and the blo is being applied to plastic any way. It does not seem to have a negative effect then so bottom line is go for it. 

I did not see anyone else jumping in to help you answer your question so hopefully someone who has actually tried this sees this and posts their results. If not do a little experimenting on your own and test the results. Good luck.


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## Pkweiss (Nov 8, 2015)

Thanks for your responses. I'll post the pens and the process or processes I used when the pens are finished.


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