# Finishing Crushed Velvet?



## iamsam (Apr 12, 2006)

I just picked up some crushed velvet blanks from Woodcraft. Can somebody please tell me how to sand it in preparation for finishing and what type of finish I should use on it? This is the best forum for penmaking I have found. Thanks.....


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## huntersilver (Apr 12, 2006)

I sand down to 600grit, then I use MicroMesh to 8000 and finish
with a Novus ulta shine.  Then lastly add a coat of Ren Wax.

I think these are available at your local Woodcraft store.

Hope this helps.


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## ed4copies (Apr 12, 2006)

Sam,

That will work! 

IF you don't have micromesh, sand to 1000-2000 (car sandpaper) and finish with a polish (Hut plastic polish for one).  

Buffing wheels also work-with tripoli polish and white diamond (2 wheels).

If you don't have any of the above, you can't get there from here[][][]


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## Jerryconn (Apr 12, 2006)

I just use pads that I got from Woodcraft in a kit to polish plastics the grits go up to 12,000 grit and they put a great finish on the blank.  I think others use a plastic polish but I haven't and I get no compliants.


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## epson (Apr 12, 2006)

The Pads from woodcraft in the kit to polish plastics is MicroMesh.


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## Rudy Vey (Apr 12, 2006)

All good, but no-one mentioned that wet sanding is the key to finishing these acrylics (or plastic in general). After turning with gouge and skew, I start sanding with 400 and go all the way to 2000 grit (400-600-800-1000-1500-2000) with automotive sandpaper, lubricated with water. You should wipe also down your blanks after every grit with a moistened paper towel to remove any residue. Wash-out your sand paper with clean water. I finish up with fine automotive polish or Novus fine polish. 
When you wet sand, cover the lathe ways with a towel to kep the water off them.


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## clewless (Apr 12, 2006)

Just made three Berea Series 2000 Rollerballs with the Crushed Velvet. Blue. green and yellow.  I thought the blue and green pens disinteresting but wifey thought them beautiful...we'll see what the buyers say...they're the ones who count...

Turned nicely with sharp tools @ 1200 rpm, sanded with 600 grit @ slowest speed, then went through the mm meshes...buffed with tripoli and white diamond which really get the last of the scratched out..polished with TSW...done...


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## Johnathan (Apr 16, 2006)

After micro, I use a plastic polish and then 3 buffing system. Works great.


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## RussFairfield (Apr 16, 2006)

After the sanding to the 8-12,000 MicroMesh, you might try Brasso as the final polish. For me, it gives a higher shine on the plastics than any of the plastic polishes.


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## jdavis (Apr 24, 2006)

Novus plastic polish after sanding to 12,000


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## Russb (Apr 24, 2006)

Those with the name Russ must think the same way. Brasso is my polish of choice on synthetics and antler. It works great and is readily available. I do not think any "finish" is necessary because it will just sit on the surface. I do apply Ren wax simply because if feels good and is suppose to protect metal surfaces. 

When I am done with my pens I will use the rag on my handwheel to keep it clean and smooth when you grab it to slow down the lathe.


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## Mosby (Apr 24, 2006)

I've found another way to finish acrylics that I've been very happy with. I used to go through a range of sanding on my acrylic pens starting with 220 and going all the way to 2000 grit paper and then finishing off with 000 and 0000 steel wool and Hut Ultra Gloss plastic polish. The biggest thing I noticed in using dry sand paper is it takes a very light touch for each grade, or you may clog up the paper and develop dark streaks in the acrylic. Then one day I realized that with sharp chisels, I can achieve an almost glasslike surface before even getting to the finishing stage. When I'm done turning the shape, I go over the pieces first with 000 steel wool, then 0000 steel wool and if I've eliminated any blips in the surfaces, apply at least a couple coats of Ultra Gloss with a soft cloth. The end result looks like glass.


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