# Scared as heck of ca finishing



## LAKingsFan (Nov 11, 2005)

Don't know what to say guys and gals. I just dont feel comfortable with the process. Not being lazy about all the prep., but just dont want to mess up. I guess you have to mess up some times in order to get it right...right?

I read the ca finish PDF that is in the archives and just seems like a long process. I wish there was a video that would show you step by step. Im just more visual on certain things. 

Sorry, just had to vent [V]

Ron


----------



## Jim Boyd (Nov 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LAKingsFan_
> <br />Don't know what to say guys and gals. I just dont feel comfortable with the process. Not being lazy about all the prep., but just dont want to mess up. I guess you have to mess up some times in order to get it right...right?
> 
> I read the ca finish PDF that is in the archives and just seems like a long process. I wish there was a video that would show you step by step. Im just more visual on certain things.
> ...



How can you succeed if you don't fail once in a while[] Give it a try and if it is not right sand it off and start over[] Or skip the ca and use lacquer[8D]


----------



## TomServo (Nov 11, 2005)

You can always do like I do to test finishes - start before you're done turning to size! turn it about halfway down, sand and finish like it's the real thing, turn it down a bit to raw wood, repeat! this way if you don't like it at all, you can choose another finish when all's said and done..


----------



## Dario (Nov 11, 2005)

Ron, 

Remember too that most finish (CA included) can be removed chemically.  Just have some debonder handy if you don't want to mess with sanding it off.  It is not easy but just another option for you.  BTW, be careful if you used CA to glue the tube...don't want that melting too []


----------



## jkoehler (Nov 11, 2005)

I too was nervous as heck about using the CA finish. My advice is don't be. Just take your time. If I can do it and get good results, anybody can.
I used to only use Shellawax. Then I read some articles here that said it wasn't durable and figured I would try CA.
CA takes a bit longer to finish the pens ( apply, dry, sand... )
but in mine, and customers too, opinon, the CA finish is worth the extra effort. 
My only recommendation is beware of the fumes when applying it.


----------



## Czarcastic (Nov 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LAKingsFan_
> I read the ca finish PDF that is in the archives and just seems like a long process.



Are you serious?!?!?
Are you actually going to sit there and say that you want a really good high quality finish but you aren't willing to work for it?!?!?

And you're going to say this to some people who have spent countless hours, days, and months working on their techniques, methods, and skills to achieve the quality of workmanship they can be proud of?!?!

Shame on you!  Go to your room and don't come out until you are ready to work.

Now.. Write 500 times: 
"Quality takes time.  Skill comes with practice. My patience will be rewarded"


----------



## Fangar (Nov 11, 2005)

Keep in mind that in most climates, this is the time of year that is a bit more difficult to get a CA finish as the temperatures are a bit colder.  My shop des not have the best heating, and the CA definately takes much more time to cure.  Once you get the hang of the technique used though, you will be a pro in no time.

Cheers,

Fangar


----------



## GregD (Nov 11, 2005)

Here is a little hint. Put some wax on your bushings so the ca won't stick to them. Nothing to be afraid of here. Slow down your lathe and go to it. The worst you can do is glue yourself to the lathe.


----------



## JeffM (Nov 11, 2005)

I've just begun using CA as a finish and it's worked well for me. With the comment about longer cure times in colder temps...will a CA Accelerator react the same in colder temps or will there be a change as well? I've never used CA Accelerator but with an order for 8 new Corn Cob pens I've ordered some to speed things up.

Thanks,
JeffM


----------



## Fangar (Nov 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JeffM_
> <br />I've just begun using CA as a finish and it's worked well for me. With the comment about longer cure times in colder temps...will a CA Accelerator react the same in colder temps or will there be a change as well? I've never used CA Accelerator but with an order for 8 new Corn Cob pens I've ordered some to speed things up.
> 
> Thanks,
> JeffM



Jeff,

Generall speaking, the less Accelerator used with CA the better.  Especially when it comes to a finish.  The reason being is that the heat caused by the curing process becomes greater with the accelerator and can cause all sorts of issues... Bubbles, small cracks, cloudiness, etc.  It also results in a more brittle application of the glue.  As a general rule, I will try to wait around 1 minute plus when using thick CA before I even think of using any acc.  And even then very sparingly.  I like the aresol for this.  If it can be avoided all together, you will have a clearer stronger finish overall.

Fangar


----------



## Dario (Nov 11, 2005)

I agree with Fangar 100%


----------



## 53Jim (Nov 11, 2005)

When I first tried CA for a finish, I put waaaaaaayyyyyyy to much on the blanks.   It took me about 4 pens to get the feel for how much to use.   Now when I do the CA finish It's just like driving a car - I do it without really thinking about it.  (Doesn't say much for my driving, does it??)  

When the pen is finished I don't feel any of the PLASTIC-NESS that some say they feel, and I can't really see any type of coating  - just wood.   MAYBE I'm doing it wrong.

Hope this helps.


----------



## LAKingsFan (Nov 11, 2005)

Thank you guys for the help. I did try to do a CA finish today. I applied it with the little plastic bag from the pen kits. Seemed to apply well. I started with THIN CA, but it just ran too fast. I then added MED CA and that was much better. As for ACCELERATOR...Wonâ€™t do it again. It dried way too fast and left small imperfections and bubbles. I turned it on the lathe by hand when applying my CA.

I was good to go on the first coat till the sanding process. I started with MM, but didnâ€™t let the CA dry long enough and messed it up. I had to re-do the finish and skewed the CA off. I tried again and applied to the blanks and again, a good coat added and it looked great. I left it alone there till tomorrow. I figured to leave it on a good note.

Any advice on what to do and the process to take after the first coat?

Thank you all again

Ron 

[]  &lt;---Before the CA

[xx(] &lt;---After the CA


----------



## ldimick (Nov 11, 2005)

Ron,

It has been my experience, and this is purely anecdotal, if there is too much heat on the CA it will cause the pen to cloud up. I don't know if it is the heat reacting with the CA or the heat is bringing out additional moisture from the blank. Others have reported the same thing.

Many people swear by CA. Many swear at it. I have used it quite a bit and I prefer the Enduro.

I did get a chance to see a pen that I finished with CA this week. The pen is 5 months old and has been used so much that the owner is on the third refill. I refinished it for him. It did not hold up to wear as well as I would have preferred so I refinished it with Enduro and I will check on it in 4 or 5 more months. Where there was very little wear (on the top around the clip) it was still just as shiny as when it was first applied.


----------



## Daniel (Nov 11, 2005)

Ca can be a real pain when it comes to the clouding and bubbling. I've had it get so hot it actually smokes. not the effect your looking for. I hae found thinner but more coats work better than thick ones. I also put three coats on this usually prevents me from sanding through it when I go to polish it all out. I ahve been using thick CA but seem to have even more problems than when med is used. if you look at my album all of those pens have CA as the finish withthe exception of any acrylics. the photos show the polish on some pens better than on others but they all are close to glass. not necessarily what everyone wants all the time. and not necessarily the best look on all materials. but with practice it does show you can get there on just about any material.


----------



## Dan (Nov 12, 2005)

Ron, 

It's just not that difficult.  Lathe off.  Nitrile glove on.  Clean work area.

One drop of medium CA on the tip of the glove, rotate the lathe quickly as you apply the CA, working it back and forth to spread and smooth.  Make this trip about three times and jsut walk away.

Have a smoke as you listen to the great music on the radio.  By the time your smoke is over you can sand - wet sand.  I start at 800 and go up from there.  Classic rock on the radio helps tremendously.

800 through 2000, very wet and rinsing after two or three passes.  Rinse and repeat.

Dry the blanks and get your polish out to make it shine like glass.

Dan


----------



## chigdon (Nov 13, 2005)

I use only CA now so am obviously a fan.  There are a lot of different ways to do it and this is just mine.  I use small squares of that thin packing material sheets to apply the CA.  I have the lathe (Jet mini) turning at the slowest speed and apply while turning.  I typically use only thin CA and use 4-5 coats.  If I need any gap filling in open grain woods I will use medium CA on the 2nd and/or 3rd coat.  The first coat needs to be thin as it acts almost like a sanding sealer.  The last coats of thin CA will leave a more uniform smooth finish too.  I then start sanding with either 400 or 600 and use MM up to 12000.  After that I buff with white diamond and sometimes top coat with a couple of coats of friction polish.


----------



## rtparso (Nov 13, 2005)

One variation from Chris (sometimes). I apply the CA befor I have finished final sanding. I stop at about 320 and apply the first coat of CA. The rougher surface alows petter penitration of the CA. I then snad again with 320 on through all the MM (wet sand the MM). Then I apply some more thin CA and sand through MM again.


----------



## Dario (Nov 13, 2005)

When I use CA as sealer...I do it almost as Ron (rtparso) described.

I turn until final shape is attained.  Sand at 320 (220 if needed but hardly).  Apply CA and sand all off leaving all pores sealed and wood stabilized.  Continue sanding including MM then apply final finish (whatever it may be).  Re-sand/polish as required.


----------



## rtparso (Nov 13, 2005)

Dario 
When I said I sand to 320 you may have miss understood. I use the sand paper to rough the surface. When I am done turning the wood is closer to 2000 MM[][]


----------



## jb_pratt (Nov 14, 2005)

Ron,

I tried and messed up a few times myself.  I posted on this site to see if there was someone who lived close to where I live that had repeated success applying a CA finish.  I immediately got a response and spent a very enjoyable Saturday morning at a fellow memberâ€™s home watching him apply the finish.  For me it was a tremendous help to see the finish be applied.  After seeing the finish applied I was able to duplicate the finish immediately with complete satisfaction.  You may want to give that a try.


----------



## LAKingsFan (Nov 16, 2005)

That sounds like an idea. I do live in Los Angeles California. Anyone in the LA/OC area? I just want to get the CA finish down.

Ron


----------



## chigdon (Nov 18, 2005)

Going back to what Ron was saying that is a good use of CA as well -- basically a sanding sealer or hardener.  If I am using a more porous wood I will definately do that.  If I am using a very tight grained heavy exotic which I usually use then it is not as important for me.  It is a very good point and a good idea.


----------

