# Bowling Ball Blanks Finishing Help



## PensofColor (Sep 28, 2004)

Hello, everyone.  I would like to offer some help on how to finish the Bowling Ball pen blanks.  I am seeing a lot of folks out there on other forums with a lot of questions, so I thought some of you may have questions as well. 

Because the Bowling Ball pen blank is made from a thermosetting material, it takes a considerable amount of heat to apply a good finish.  But, it can be done, with great success, if you don't mind using a little extra elbow grease.  By the way, this same thermosetting quality is what allows the blank to be drilled without melting or cracking it, unlike acrylics.



There are several different methods for finishing the Bowling Ball blanks.  Just choose what works best for you and your shop.



I donâ€™t own a buffing system, so I use friction polish and a soft cloth.  I start sanding the blank with 400 or 600 grit, anything less than that will actually put MORE scratches in the blank.  I sand with the lathe spinning, stopping between grits to sand lengthwise on the blank, while turning it by hand.  When I get to around 2500 grit, with regular sandpaper, I put on one or two coats of sanding sealer, then wipe off the excess before it dries, to fill in any tiny divots or air pockets in the blank.



Then, I use one of several products to remove the fine scratches.  Sometimes I use the Novus 2 Step system, sometimes I use Hut Ultra Gloss, sometimes I use EEE Ultrashine polish.  Any of these will remove the very fine scratches from the blank.



Finally, I dab some friction polish on a soft cloth, and go to work.  The thermosetting properties of the blank means I have to get more friction working than I would on a wood blank, so the polish can be baked on.  So, I use a little extra pressure on the rag to create the extra heat I need.  If the pen gets a little cloudy or dull, then I know I have to go back and get it even hotter, because the polish is just sitting on top of the blank, not actually baked on yet.  Two coats of friction polish are all it takes to get a great shine.



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If you have a buffing system, you should sand to about 600 grit, use a coat of sanding sealer, then buff.  You'll have to buff with the tripoli wheel pretty hard and at high speed to get all the fine scratches out, before going to the white diamond wheel. Then, apply your choice of finish.





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The Bowling Ball Blanks are made from the same exact material as the outer covering of a bowling ball.  They can be polished using any conventional method after fine sanding to remove any scratches.  Plastics polish, friction polish, CA glue, polyurethane, and/or waxes may be used to create a high gloss shine.  Just be sure to create extra friction and heat on the friction polish, and you should not do the boiled linseed oil if you finish with CA glue.



If you have any questions or comments, please contact us at 888-966-3736 or 888-Wood-Pen.  You may also contact us via email at pensofcolor.com  We want you to be happy with our products!

Thanks!

Pens of Color

www.pocwoodworking.com


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## YoYoSpin (Sep 29, 2004)

Thanks for all the great info...I've made about 50 bowling ball material pens, and sanding, followed by the Beall buff, as Sheila described, always works for me.


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## ashaw (Sep 30, 2004)

Shelia 
Thanks alot...
Great information ...  I have  made teo pens and have been not be satified with the results.  I going after my third try this weekend.  I'll follow your advice and see what happens.  I like the machining properties of the material once I can get the finishing down, I'll start marketing the pens.

Thanks again

Alna


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## Doghouse (Sep 30, 2004)

Shelia,

A method that I am haveing good success with (besides the beall system) is automotive finish products.  I start with rubbing compound then polishing compound.  You have to do an mineral spirit wipe between grits to clean off the excess.  

For the buffing system, if you turn the blanks 90 degress to the original cutting marks, you get a quicker buff out as you "cross hatch" the original tool marks and they blend much quicker.  When on the final grit, rotate your work so that the "tool marks" keep changing with every revolution of the blank.  I have been able to develop a nice sheen without having to use sanding sealer this way.


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