# Ca-Blo / Plastic Polish



## jbyrd24 (Jul 15, 2005)

Just wondering if any of you have used something like Hut
Plastic Polish after the Ca cures ?  Seems like someone mentioned
it at one time or another. Pros and Cons ?

Thanks


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## JimGo (Jul 15, 2005)

I know Tom (OldGriz) uses either HPP or and automotive polish and/or swirl remover with a lot of success.  I've used HPP too.  I don't see as big of a difference with it on my CA finishes as I do on my polyester resin pieces - on those, it does make a visible difference.


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 15, 2005)

Hi Jim[]
Just tried the HPP and your right, I didn't see much of a difference.
Think I'll leave it off next time. By the way, the mesquite came
from Dario another IAP member..


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## its_virgil (Jul 15, 2005)

I use HUT Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish as soon as I finish sanding the CA. I don['t know what you mean by "cures"; for me it is cured as soon as it is dry. I sand with MM and and use the HUT Ultra Gloss. Some use McGuire's auto polish, but I'm not sure which formula. John "Deere41h" can answer the auto polish question if he sees this post. He uses it with great success.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## JimGo (Jul 15, 2005)

Bryan,
I've been paying attention to Tom and some of the other CA people's posts lately, and noticed something - they are using MicroMesh AFTER the last CA application.  Until now, I've always just finished the wood out to MM12000, then did a light touch of BLO on the blank, followed by some CA, then a little more BLO, then more CA, then one more application of each, then I've been done.  I've always been really pleased with my blanks when they come off the lathe, but some of them lose their luster after a day.  I was thinking that it might be because the BLO is gradually drying.  I am thinking about trying MM (starting around 4000 or so) after the three to five layers of CA are dry to see if it brings up more of a polish.  Finishing THAT with some HPP might really make it pop.  It may be that my final CA coats are too rough for the HPP to really give it the kind of polish I am seeing on the polyester resins.

Thanks again for the mesquite - now I know why everyone raves over Dario's mesquite!  That should make a great pen!


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## Old Griz (Jul 15, 2005)

After CA (CA only, no BLO), I ALWAYS sand to 12000MM, then use automotive polishing compound followed by either Hut Plastic Polish or anti-swirl cream (whichever is closer to hand)... I get a very high gloss on the finish...
I stopped using BLO with the CA because I was getting fogging on some blanks.. I think it was from the BLO.. if you use too much BLO I believe it happens.. have not had the problem since.


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## dubdrvrkev (Jul 15, 2005)

I had the same issue but I started letting the BLO sit overnight before the major CA application, I usually do one or two light coats of thin CA pretty soon after BLO just to get a little seal on it. But after I have been letting them sit the finish has got lots better. 

Back on the original topic, I MM all the way through after the CA has sat at least overnight then sometimes HUT Crystal Coat burned in with lots of friction and TSW over that after it sets a day or so.


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 15, 2005)

Thanks all[] I would like to hear alittle more about the auto polish
and what is does. Sorry if this is a dumb question.[:I]
Thanks


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## DCBluesman (Jul 15, 2005)

Bryan--CA or any of the polyurethane coatings are plastics with a pedigree, as are automotive clear coats.  The swirl removers are extremely fine abrasives that replace visible swirls (scratches) with ones that are not visible to the un-aided eye.


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 16, 2005)

Thanks . I'll go get some auto polish and give it another try.
Is there any special name brand to get ?[]


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## DCBluesman (Jul 16, 2005)

Meguiar's is a good name, although I like Plexxus. [8D]


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## Rifleman1776 (Jul 16, 2005)

Griz said, "I stopped using BLO with the CA because I was getting fogging on some blanks". Even though I have never used boiled linseed oil on pens, it is a popular finish for gunstocks. Those who use it for that purpose know that not all brands of boiled linseed oil are created the same. Quality varies greatly between brands. Tru-Oil by Birchwood Casey is often considered the going away best on the market. What they do to make it superior, I can't say. And it is also far more expensive than the stuff you will pick up at the local hardware store. A 3 oz. bottle is about six dollars. Even the instructions that come with Tru-Oil mention clouding is possible and suggests to remove, just lightly sand with a fine paper or steel wool. Side note, boiled linseed oil is not boiled. It is treated with chemicals so as not to become sticky with time. And, no, I dunno why it's called 'boiled'.


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 16, 2005)

Thanks...............[]


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## Old Griz (Jul 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Rifleman_
> <br />_Griz said, "I stopped using BLO with the CA because I was getting fogging on some blanks". Even though I have never used boiled linseed oil on pens, it is a popular finish for gunstocks. Those who use it for that purpose know that not all brands of boiled linseed oil are created the same. Quality varies greatly between brands. Tru-Oil by Birchwood Casey is often considered the going away best on the market. What they do to make it superior, I can't say. And it is also far more expensive than the stuff you will pick up at the local hardware store. A 3 oz. bottle is about six dollars. Even the instructions that come with Tru-Oil mention clouding is possible and suggests to remove, just lightly sand with a fine paper or steel wool. Side note, boiled linseed oil is not boiled. It is treated with chemicals so as not to become sticky with time. And, no, I dunno why it's called 'boiled'._



When I referred to no longer using BLO and a CA finish.. I meant in combination as a BLO\CA finish that is very popular with some... 
I will still use a 50/50 cut of BLO to pop the grain of some woods and in the case of some open pored woods like walnut, I may even sand some BLO into the wood with 400 grit paper to fill the pores and pop the grain.  HOWEVER, when I do use BLO to pop the grain, I also burnish dry using a piece of brown paper bag... This accomplishes two things, it dries the BLO quicker, and it gives a smoother surface to apply you overcoat onto... 
I will also put a sealer coat of cellulose sanding sealer over the BLO and buff that out to 6000MM or better before applying a CA topcoat.
This seals the BLO from the CA and eliminates any possibility of clouding the CA finish.
As Frank mentioned Tru-Oil is the cat's meow for gunstock finishing... it is a polymerized boiled linseed oil that is thicker than what we see from the local BORG.. It is generally applied by hand rubbing the oil into the wood with your fingers and the palm of your hand until you can feel the heat of the friction setting the oil a bit... basically a stock makers version of friction finish.. but a lot better than what we use.. expensive and you still need to let it cure a couple of days after application.. but if done right the finish can look like glass.... but not feel like plastic...


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 16, 2005)

Thanks for all the information Tom, that helps alot.[]
Are you putting any BLO on your towel to apply the CA or are
you just using straight CA. Sorry for all of the questions.

Thanks


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## Old Griz (Jul 16, 2005)

I do not... repeat... do not use any BLO with the CA for the finish.... I only use  straight CA when I to that type of finish.  
_<b>NOW THIS IS JUST MY OPINION... </b>_
I believe that if you have a little too much BLO on the towel it causes a fogging in the finish.. BUT since I stopped using the BLO on the towel, I no longer get the fogging... 
Lately more and more of my pieces are being done in lacquer or Enduro.... a longer process, but definately well worth the time...


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 16, 2005)

Thanks Tom


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## Fangar (Jul 17, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Old Griz_
> <br />I do not... repeat... do not use any BLO with the CA for the finish.... I only use  straight CA when I to that type of finish.
> _<b>NOW THIS IS JUST MY OPINION... </b>_
> I believe that if you have a little too much BLO on the towel it causes a fogging in the finish.. BUT since I stopped using the BLO on the towel, I no longer get the fogging...
> Lately more and more of my pieces are being done in lacquer or Enduro.... a longer process, but definately well worth the time...



I'm the same way.  I often apply the BLO and get to dry before I apply my CA.  I also apply two or three thin coats of Thin CA first.  Then I switch to medium and add several more.  I find this works to get a smoother application for me.  Since I stopped adding wet BLO to the CA application, my clouds have parted as well.

James


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## swm6500 (Jul 17, 2005)

I am glad to hear that the BLO can cause fogging and what James and Griz have done to keep it from happeining. Thanks.


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## 4reel (Jul 30, 2005)

I have heard about this Enduro several times and do not know what it is or how to apply it. I assume it is a POLY so do you dip it or spead while the pen is rotating?


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## rtparso (Jul 31, 2005)

Griz, Do you wet sand with the MM? I have found that thin CA makes the grain pop like BLO.


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