# removing CA finish from bushings



## dabull24 (Dec 17, 2008)

I tried to remove the bushings and noticed a little bubble where the CA glue began to peel away from the wood...anyway to prevent this?


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## IPD_Mrs (Dec 17, 2008)

Best way for this is to the blank between centers without the bushings.  Then use a sanding mill to clean up the ends.


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## leehljp (Dec 17, 2008)

Some people wax their bushings and some make a spacer and place between the bushing shoulder and blank. Be careful with wax, it can migrate to the blank and mess with the finish.

Your problem was the very reason that I started using the mandrel-less method - or also known as "turning between centers". Bushings are used to turn it down to size and then the bushings are removed, blank placed back on the lathe and finished (without the bushings.) No more bubbles/lifting of finish.

Also, thinner finishes will cut down on some of this.


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## dabull24 (Dec 17, 2008)

what kind of centers would I need?


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## fiferb (Dec 17, 2008)

Soak the bushings in acetone for a day or two. When you pull them out use a rag to wipe them off. This will take the CA off.


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## dabull24 (Dec 17, 2008)

If I wanted to turn between centers instead of the mandrel for applying the CA finish, which centers would I need?


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## rick_lindsey (Dec 17, 2008)

Hi dabull.  I'm a newbie so take a grain of salt, but I believe you need a dead center in your headstock and a live center in your tailstock (you almost certainly already have a live center in your tailstock, but you may need to get a dead center for your headstock).

-Rick


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## lwalden (Dec 17, 2008)

And make sure the live center in the tailstock is a 60degree live center, the stock live center that comes with most mini/midi lathes can't be used for this with how the tip is configured.


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## leehljp (Dec 17, 2008)

Here is an MT2 dead center from Grizzly:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Carbide-Tipped-Lathe-Center-MT2/H7967


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## dabull24 (Dec 17, 2008)

What if I fashioned a piece of wood to slightly taper down and used that in a chuck to hold the pen piece instead of a dead center? Think it would work?


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## fiferb (Dec 17, 2008)

dabull24 said:


> What if I fashioned a piece of wood to slightly taper down and used that in a chuck to hold the pen piece instead of a dead center? Think it would work?


 
It would once. Each time you took it out of the chuck you would have to make sure it ran true the next time you mounted it. Wood may also have more "give" or wear and allow the tube to run out of round.


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## dabull24 (Dec 17, 2008)

ok thanks, trying to do all this on a tight budget.


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## jkeithrussell (Dec 17, 2008)

The tapered wood would also get glued to the blank if you are using a CA finish.  The dead center is pretty cheap -- I think I paid less than $20.


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## marcruby (Dec 17, 2008)

Simpleminded as I am, I just take the point of an old skew and cut through any buildup right at the edge of the blank.  Then I use a wee bit of 400 grit to smooth out the ends.  Oh, then I drop the bushings into some acetone to dissolve the CA.

I also have a set of delrin (read non-stick) bushings that I can switch in just for CA finishing.  It all comes down to what do you want to clean when you finish finishing.  I prefer to keep the centers clean and toothbrush the bushings.

Marc


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## TylerRiddle (Dec 17, 2008)

After experiencing the same tear away on my finishes, I went with the turning between centers approach as well.  The little machine shop (littlemachineshop.com) has #2MT dead centers for around 6 dollars.  I think I paid more for the shipping than the actual dead center.


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## johnnycnc (Dec 17, 2008)

dabull24 said:


> If I wanted to turn between centers instead of the mandrel for applying the CA finish, which centers would I need?



something like these::biggrin:


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## smitty (Dec 17, 2008)

I made a set of under size bushing that I use between centers.  I tried not using any bushing between centers and I always flared the tubes.  With the under size bushing I don't have the CA chipping of the end of the blanks.  I then us my disc sander to square the ends back up.


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## Rick_G (Dec 17, 2008)

I'll turn between centers almost to bushing size.  Then I take the bushings off and sand to size between centers without the bushings.  So far no problem flaring the ends but with the sanding I use the bare minimum that will keep the blank turning without slipping.


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## sandking (Dec 23, 2008)

dabull24 said:


> I tried to remove the bushings and noticed a little bubble where the CA glue began to peel away from the wood...anyway to prevent this?



I purchased a 12" piece of delrin rod.   I cut a 3" piece, and drill a 1/4" hole and mount it to the mandrel.  I then turn a tapered end that will fit the tube, then use my thin parting tool to remove.  I do this 4 times for each end of the barrels.  Because of the taper I don't have to worry when I move the CA glue back and forth it won't crack the CA when I remove them.

What I do is turn with the bushings to get to size and coat with a few passes of thin CA (doesn't crack when I take them out).  I then mount the tubes on the derlin inserts and finish with thick CA.  There will be some extra glue over the edges so I just slowly sand the tubes on end once finished with some sandpaper on my flat tablesaw.

For the extra little bit of glue on the metal bushings (or if I don't have finishing bushings made yet for that style) I have a small canning jar with an inch or two of Acetone in it.  I drop in the bushings, put the lid on and swirl the jar.  Between the Acetone and bushings hitting eachother the glue comes off pretty quickly.  I use a bent piece of hanger to grab each bushing and after a quick wipe with paper towels I'm ready to go.  Make sure you put the lid back on the jar or it evaporates (it lasts a pretty long time in there).


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## jkeithrussell (Dec 23, 2008)

where can i buy a piece of delrin rod? 



sandking said:


> I purchased a 12" piece of delrin rod. I cut a 3" piece, and drill a 1/4" hole and mount it to the mandrel. I then turn a tapered end that will fit the tube, then use my thin parting tool to remove. I do this 4 times for each end of the barrels. Because of the taper I don't have to worry when I move the CA glue back and forth it won't crack the CA when I remove them.
> 
> What I do is turn with the bushings to get to size and coat with a few passes of thin CA (doesn't crack when I take them out). I then mount the tubes on the derlin inserts and finish with thick CA. There will be some extra glue over the edges so I just slowly sand the tubes on end once finished with some sandpaper on my flat tablesaw.
> 
> For the extra little bit of glue on the metal bushings (or if I don't have finishing bushings made yet for that style) I have a small canning jar with an inch or two of Acetone in it. I drop in the bushings, put the lid on and swirl the jar. Between the Acetone and bushings hitting eachother the glue comes off pretty quickly. I use a bent piece of hanger to grab each bushing and after a quick wipe with paper towels I'm ready to go. Make sure you put the lid back on the jar or it evaporates (it lasts a pretty long time in there).


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## jkeithrussell (Dec 23, 2008)

Never mind -- I found a source for the rod on-line.  Looking forward to trying this out.


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