# Ridges in CA?  Try This



## paps (Jan 19, 2011)

I have tried several different methods of applying CA (paper towel, baggie, CA/BLO, etc) and seems no matter which method I used I always end up with deep ridges that have to be sanded down.  Yesterday I tried something new.  After applying 2 coats of thin and 6 coats of medium CA, I turned the lathe off and wiped on 2 coats of thick going longitudinal with the blank.  This did a good job of filling in the valleys and the amount of sanding required to get the ridges out was cut way down.  Ended up with a much thicker finish too.  
If you try this, you will surely get CA build up over the edge of the blank (and onto your bushings) so conical bushings is the way to go.  My wife runnoft to work with the finished pen before I got a picture of it.:biggrin:  Anyhow, hope this helps somebody.


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## Seer (Jan 19, 2011)

I use a papertowel folded over about 8 times so it is thick and put a few drops of med ca on it and wipe it back and forth until it feels like it is drying, hit it with accelerator and do this about 5 to 10 times and 99% of the time I have an ultra smooth finish that just needs polishing but then there is always one time lol.  
Your idea has merit as well but then each of us will develop our own way which works for us, if it works do it if not try another way.
Jerry


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## Hess (Jan 19, 2011)

I find using the "Batting" for quilts work great for placing CA very smooth  it is in the sewing  section of wall mart


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## Chasper (Jan 19, 2011)

I've never had the problem, but I'll give your method a try.

I use paper towels, put the CA directly on the spinning blank, no accelerator.  It work well for me, but I'm always in the market for something quicker, easier and better.


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## Mark (Jan 19, 2011)

Thank you for the post. I'll give it a try at some point. I've been using the HD foam and am very happy with the results. The CA goes on very smooth.


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## Rangertrek (Jan 21, 2011)

I have not really had a big problem with ridges; but, will keep your idea in mind and give it a try.  I have also tried the high density foam and have had good results.


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## rej19 (Jan 21, 2011)

I use the method that "Seer" uses only I add about the same amount of BLO as I do CA to the paper towel. When I apply it I rapidly move back and forth on the blank until it begins to cure. I continue the back and forth motion until I get the gloss shine. Hardly ever have to sand using this method. I may start in the middle of the MM grits and then polish. Working great for me. I was tired of sanding off half of what I was putting on. But whatever is working for you I wouldn't change.


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## paps (Jan 21, 2011)

I believe part of my problem with this is due to the speed of my lathe.  850 rpm is the slowest I can go.  I think my bearings are goin out on the old clunker, so a new one may be in the works soon.:biggrin:


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## avbill (Jan 26, 2011)

Ridges are created several different ways:

1.  Ridges are created by the liquid (CA) being forced to the highest dia of your pen blank-- then your lathe is turned on.  (It a physics law. )   To eliminate ridges you need to evenly sand your blank.

2.  Ridges can be created by the used of plastic bags as the applicator 

3. Ridges can be a result of to heavy of an application of CA.  See  point 1 .


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## KenV (Jan 26, 2011)

Shear scraping (cutting with fine turned edge) takes the ridges off faster than sandpaper and leaves a smooth surface --  Takes a bit of practice but works well.

For those like me with "experienced eyes" mag-eyes or similar works to see the details.


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## spnemo (Jan 27, 2011)

I just started applying the CA at high speed using blue shop towels from HD.  Problem solved.


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## Knucklefish (Jan 27, 2011)

spnemo said:


> I just started applying the CA at high speed using blue shop towels from HD. Problem solved.


Any guess what the speed you are turning the lathe at when you do this?


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## spnemo (Jan 27, 2011)

Knucklefish said:


> spnemo said:
> 
> 
> > I just started applying the CA at high speed using blue shop towels from HD. Problem solved.
> ...


 
Between 1700 and 2400. Whatever looks and feels best when applying the glue.


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## airborne_r6 (Jan 29, 2011)

KenV said:


> Shear scraping (cutting with fine turned edge) takes the ridges off faster than sandpaper and leaves a smooth surface -- Takes a bit of practice but works well.
> 
> For those like me with "experienced eyes" mag-eyes or similar works to see the details.


 
Agreed, I use my 1/2" skew layed flat on the tool rest to scrape off any ridges.  

As for how to keep them from developing I am still working on that.


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## dhammis (Jan 31, 2011)

I discovered that I was having a ridge problem at one point and then I realized it was my fault.

After letting the blank spin for a bit to dry I would run my finger across it (while it was still spinning) to see if it was dry enough for another coat.

After I stopped doing that I stopped getting ridges in my CA.


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## Drstrangefart (Jan 31, 2011)

I used to get a lot of ridges that had to be cut off with the skew until I got the hand of wiping the barrel a couple of times with the paper towel before it had time to start setting up. I felt pretty ignorant when I realized the medium wasn't gonna set and snatch the fibers off the towel after just one pass. Now I almost never have ridge issues, and occasionally I use thick for a finish just to be different or to smooth out a rough surface on the wood.


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