# Longevity of Finish



## sbarton22 (Nov 4, 2011)

So, I know some of the reasons CA is such a popular finish is because of its quickness and longevity as opposed to just a wax finish.

I also know that on a heavily handled object needs a hardy finish.

Ok, so that explains CA pens. But what find of finish would one put on a pepper mill or other object that is too large for CA, but is a heavily handled piece?


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## Phillyjer (Nov 4, 2011)

What about a friction polish? Something with shellac in it?


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## sbarton22 (Nov 4, 2011)

I thought that wasn't a long lasting finish? Otherwise that would be a good one for pens?

I don't know. I still don't really understand a friction polish.


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## monophoto (Nov 4, 2011)

WOP


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## mrcook4570 (Nov 4, 2011)

Polyurethane or lacquer


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## sbarton22 (Nov 4, 2011)

Ok, WOP question. If you are spinning slowly, could you apply it on the lathe?


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## BSea (Nov 4, 2011)

It's not impossible to use CA on a peppermill.  I know of one person on here who has done it.  I've done it on a bottle stopper before.  So you might want to give it a try.  Wose case is you do a little more sanding to remove it.

EDIT:  Here's the link where a peppermill was finished with CA.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85207


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## mrcook4570 (Nov 4, 2011)

sbarton22 said:


> Ok, WOP question. If you are spinning slowly, could you apply it on the lathe?



Yes, you can, but there will be circular swirls in the finish.  They can be sanded/buffed out.  However, it's just as easy to wipe on with the grain and avoid the swirls.


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## Wildman (Nov 5, 2011)

Russ Fairfield once said some people so caustic only a Bic pen will last them. 
He was talking about plating and finishes. 

Durability of a finish depends upon several factors, type of wood, finishing material, in use environment, and people using item. All finishes will degrade over time. 

Biggest problem for wood kitchen items like a pepper mills regardless of finishing material is hot soapy water. Need to provide care and cleaning instructions based upon finished used. While most finishes will survive wipe down with damp rag few survive hot soapy water wash downs. 

I would go with either oil or water base poly whether using satin, semi gloss or gloss finish.  Would not sell or give away until finish fully cured


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## ed4copies (Nov 5, 2011)

"Deft" is a popular finish for peppermills among guys I have seen at art and craft shows.

Spray lacquer is also a great finish, if you are patient.  (Twenty or so thin coats and drying time---not a fast process)


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## StephenM (Nov 5, 2011)

I'm experimenting with many coats of BLO (saturating the wood, letting it soak in for a while, wipe off, turn on lathe, wipe down, repeat a number of times) followed up with 10 or so coats of Mylands shellac/wax friction polish, followed up with 2 coats of HUT wax.  It gives a nice hand rubbed, glowing finish without the plastic look of CA.  It takes 2 or 3 times longer but it's still only about 1/2 hour.

When my wife stops throwing up and/or the kids go to bed, I'll try and take a picture of the figured Koa pen I just finished.  Not sure if a photo will ever capture the chatoyance though.


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## sbarton22 (Nov 7, 2011)

Can you build up mylands?

I just made a pen with both acrylic and wood, finished w/ BLO +CA. I found that a couple coats of HUT polish did a fantastic job on both the CA and acrylic. I can see where, if the mylands builds up well, it would be a nice touch.

How is the HUT wax vs Ren wax?


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## JohnU (Nov 7, 2011)

I agree With using Deft.  I have a custom made recurve bow that I've been shooting and hunting with in snow and rain for the past 8 years that has a spray deft finish. Still looks brand new.  The bow had a sealer coat on the wood consisting of epoxy, dabbed on with a finger like little finger prints. The several light coats of spray deft was the final coat that smoothed it all out.  I would try it on some scrap wood first.


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## Leviblue (Nov 7, 2011)

If you have a hand for it, CA/BLO coats go on smoothly and can render a satin finish with no sanding required.  I use this method on many pens and only buff with Novus 2.  I'm sure there are other methods depending on the level of shine you want from the finish.


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## StephenM (Nov 7, 2011)

Yes, Mylands builds up.  It's a shellac/wax mixtures so if you're going to put on BLO or some other oil that will soak into the wood, you have to do it before the Mylands as it creates a barrier.


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## geovtx (Nov 7, 2011)

I've used salad bowl finish and it appears to be holding up well


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## AceHoleInOne (Nov 9, 2011)

A new product out by general finishes. They say holds up really to human skin. Should be just perfect for a pepper mill and kitchen use.

I have only tested it some. I have made a little bell and is a conversation piece, gets handled a lot, very impressed how the finish is doing. Very simple and easy finish to apply.

-Ace-


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## monophoto (Nov 9, 2011)

sbarton22 said:


> Ok, WOP question. If you are spinning slowly, could you apply it on the lathe?




Yes.

And it doesn't have to be WOP - I routinely do this with waterbourn poly that was intended to be used as a floor finish, but that also works just fine as a totally colorless finish for turned items.


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## sbarton22 (Nov 10, 2011)

AceHoleInOne said:


> A new product out by general finishes. They say holds up really to human skin. Should be just perfect for a pepper mill and kitchen use.
> 
> I have only tested it some. I have made a little bell and is a conversation piece, gets handled a lot, very impressed how the finish is doing. Very simple and easy finish to apply.
> 
> -Ace-



DUH!! I have a small bottle I was testing and forgot all about it!


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## sbarton22 (Nov 10, 2011)

monophoto said:


> Yes.
> 
> And it doesn't have to be WOP - I routinely do this with waterbourn poly that was intended to be used as a floor finish, but that also works just fine as a totally colorless finish for turned items.


 
interesting...do you get any grooves? Does it take forever to dry one coat?


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