# How to keep our capped pens closed



## Texatdurango

The purpose of this post is to share something I have dont that I feel is noteworthy, NOT to start a debate over which kit is best or which is the worst or who has experienced this problem or who hasn't. 

A known issue with several types of capped pens is that they often come loose in the pocket or in the case of fountain pens, they come loose then whatever fabric comes in contact with the nib changes color! 

A commanly accepted "fix" was to use an 0-ring but after spending several months trying to find just the right o-rings to fit the caps I use, I finally gave up searching and looked at an alternative solution. I also thought the o-rings made the pens look cheesy and cheap!

My solution was a bead of silicone that won't fall out, is barely noticable if noticable at all and works better than an o-ring, in my opinion.

What I did was to get a tube of black silicone adhesive sealant and run a thin bead all the way around the inside of the cap (look closely at the photo below) and letting it completely cure for at least 24 hours before mating the lower pen together. After running the bead around I got a cotton swab and cleaned any "squish out" from the inside of the barrel. Then with a moistened (saliva) finger lightly ran the finger around the bead to give it a smooth appearance. Finally I removed any "squish out" from the outside of the cap.

I like the results so far, the seals give me just the right amount of "grip". What you see below are my guinee pigs. The Emperor on the right is my daily carry around pen and was the first to be done last week and so far is working GREAT. The others are on my desk but not used constantly but so far all are closing snugly with no signs of the seals flatenning out.

So..... if you are tired of your caps unscrewing themselves, grab a tube of silicone and give it a try!

Not that it matters but from left to right are a Jr Gent, Baron, Jr Gent, Full size Gent and an Emperor.


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## workinforwood

That is a very nifty idea  you have there.  The last few jr gent type kits I've purchase where actually very tight on the threads..maybe a bit too tight.  I had to wrench pretty hard to get it closed all the way.  But..for the most part, I've experienced your issue and refused to use an o-ring because it looks rediculous.  who wants to have an o ring in their hand?  Your solution is something that, or something silmilar to what should be done straight from the factory.  Well done!


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## wood-of-1kind

Great tip that you passed around. Thank you, George.


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## OKLAHOMAN

*Great tip!*

George, that solved a problem I've been working on for a year DUH!!!! Thanks will be trying that on my personal F/P and if it works and I don't see a reason why not I've only got a few hundred  more to do.:redface::redface::redface:


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## Jim15

Good idea, thanks George.


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## PenWorks

Nice fix, I like the idea, very clean looking, I never used the O rings because of the tacky look to it. Have you noticed the difference when Dayacom switched to "square threads" vs their old threads? Do the square threads hold better?


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## Texatdurango

PenWorks said:


> Nice fix, I like the idea, very clean looking, I never used the O rings because of the tacky look to it. Have you noticed the difference when Dayacom switched to "square threads" vs their old threads? Do the square threads hold better?


To be honest, I wasn't aware of the change.  The emperor in the photo was purchased and assembled a year ago and I just compared the threads to a few emperors I purchased last month and didn't see any difference so can't address that issue.


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## Stevej72

Thanks for the great suggestion, George.  My FP has been driving me crazy lately with the cap coming loose, especially on days when I don't have a shirt pocket and carry it in the pocket of my slacks.


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## Texatdurango

Stevej72 said:


> Thanks for the great suggestion, George. My FP has been driving me crazy lately with the cap coming loose, especially on days when I don't have a shirt pocket and carry it in the pocket of my slacks.


I think you will be pleased with the results. Speaking of carrying a pen around your pants pocket..... This is the best friend your pen will ever have! When I leave the house, usually in shorts or bluejeans, this baby goes with me, and has for almost a year now and with a rub of a clean cloth can be placed next to any shiny new pen and hold it's own! 

They really keep a pen looking new and of course the side benefit of people noticing when you pull it out of your pocket to use the pen, usually making a comment like "Wow, what a nice pen" to which you just have to reply as you hand it to them to examine "Oh this ole thing... I make these!"


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## ngeb528

Very cool idea, George.  I appreciate your "sharing the wealth" on this.  
I going to start working on higher end pens and will definitely use your idea to stop the problem before it starts.  

Thanks,
Nancy


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## gcurran

Great idea!  That is what we in the design biz call an elegant solution.  :bananen_smilies046: :bananen_smilies046:


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## Texatdurango

I just had a discussion about this with a friend and something was brought up so I wanted to clarify.

In "REAL LIFE" the silicone isn't even noticable unless one is looking for it. When I took the above photo I had the tent lights on and the camera flash as well so we could see "inside" the cap.

Under normal lighting with the cap in hand you don't even notice the ring as it blends in with the black plastic threads.

So now you have the whole story! :biggrin:


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## PenWorks

The new Jr Statesmens I recieved after the first of the year, had square threads on them. It was my understanding Dayacom was going to switch ALL screw type caps to square threads. It seems to have a more positive close at the very end. I have not carried one around though to test it.


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## Texatdurango

PenWorks said:


> The new Jr Statesmens I recieved after the first of the year, had square threads on them. It was my understanding Dayacom was going to switch ALL screw type caps to square threads. It seems to have a more positive close at the very end. I have not carried one around though to test it.


I got several new kits recently but didn't pay any attention to them, guess I'll have to go look closely at them.


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## philb

Great idea!

Was there any particular type of sealant you used, like quick drying etc!

Ive noticed all of the threads on the jr gents are square, well on the ones ive ordered in the last 4 months from CSUSA?


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## leehljp

PenWorks said:


> The new Jr Statesmens I recieved after the first of the year, had square threads on them. It was my understanding Dayacom was going to switch ALL screw type caps to square threads. It seems to have a more positive close at the very end. I have not carried one around though to test it.



I had not noticed the square threads, however a recent Jr. Gent had a "positive close" at the very end that I really appreciated. I had given up on the Baron. I still have half a dozen or so. I hate the O-ring solution. I will try the Silicone solution for them though.


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## GouletPens

What a creative solution. I had a similar problem with the Sierra, that would keep coming unscrewed during normal use when simply trying to retract the nib. I didn't end up using silicone, rather 2part epoxy to put a small bead on the back of the male threads that hold on to the twist mechanism to give the same type of 'grabbing' effect. I'll have to try silicone though, might be a little easier to work with.


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## John Eberly

*Additional idea -*

I've used the black silicone for years to seal up molds for concrete countertops.  I use brand name (GE or equal) full silicone caulk.  Latex or blends would not be good.

One of the tricks that I've learned is to use masking tape or something similar to reduce the smeared sealant and make the cleanup easier.  Basic idea is to mask off the balance of your workpiece and only leave the area to be sealed exposed.  Trust me, this works better than smear and wipe methods - this stuff is really gooey.

I think this could be applied to the outside/barrel of the pen easily.  Inside the tube may not be as critical, but another approach might be to make a plug to fit in the pen barrel, sizing it to keep the goo where you want it.

This is a great idea and solution to pen caps coming off.  Thanks for the idea.


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## Dalecamino

Thanks George . Great idea . So glad I didn't go looking for O-rings .


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## Rudy Vey

Thats a good idea, and if the silicone caulk is applied before assembly, one has access from both ends of the threaded part for the clean-up. What kind of silicone caulk do you use, please let us know brand and where to get it. I never liked the idea with the o-rings, looks just crappy and I never sold pens with the rings because of the looks.


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## el_d

Great Idea George. I like it Cheap, simple and works.


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## Texatdurango

I don't know if the brand makes a lot of difference or not but I grabbed a tube of Permatex Black Silicone adhesive sealant.

Oddly enough I was at the local Ace hardware where I was promised the correct o-rings had finally arrived. They hadn't but that is where I decided to try the silicone.

I figure that one 8oz tube is good for about 6,324 pens, so I'm set for a while!


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## JerryS

Excellent tip , I haven't made any of those style pens yet and had a hard time figuring out what you did . I'll be honest , at first I was just skimming over what you wrote ,and just looking at the pictures . Your fix looks very professional , like it was meant to be .  I'm guessing there's some type of gap in that space .


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## kirkfranks

Texatdurango said:


> I figure that one 8oz tube is good for about 6,324 pens, so I'm set for a while!


 
You better hurry.  There is a shelf life after the tube is opened.

This is a great idea.  Thanks for sharing.


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## CaptG

YOU DA MAN George.  Great idea and thanks so much for sharing.


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## LEAP

Great idea George, thanks for sharing.


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## mick

George great fix for a pesky problem. I do have a question tho. When you do this to a pen with pronounced grain that alignment is noticable does it "stop" the cap just short of alignment? Or is it so little at it's not noticable? I've got a pen or two that when capped the grain goes just a fraction past being aligned...you may have solved two problems...lol


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## Texatdurango

JerryS said:


> Excellent tip , I haven't made any of those style pens yet and had a hard time figuring out what you did . I'll be honest , at first I was just skimming over what you wrote ,and just looking at the pictures . Your fix looks very professional , like it was meant to be . I'm guessing there's some type of gap in that space .


 
Jerry, You are correct, there is a space between the edge of the cap and the inner barrel where the threads actually start. This is the area where you have metal to metal contact when the pen halves are mated. Since the metal to metal contact provides no gripping effect the pens unscrew easily.

I filled that gap with silicone and now you have metal to silicone to metal which gives you a gripping seal.

I took another photo to show the before and after look.


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## Texatdurango

mick said:


> George great fix for a pesky problem. I do have a question tho. When you do this to a pen with pronounced grain that alignment is noticable does it "stop" the cap just short of alignment? Or is it so little at it's not noticable? I've got a pen or two that when capped the grain goes just a fraction past being aligned...you may have solved two problems...lol


 Mike, The addition of the sealant does change the alignment of the cap when screwed on.  It's not much but when crafting a pen I would do the silicone first, let it set for 24 hours then align the upper and lower body then press the parts together.

For those pens that are a bit "over aligned" already, you are correct, this might solve the problem.


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## mick

Texatdurango said:


> Mike, The addition of the sealant does change the alignment of the cap when screwed on. It's not much but when crafting a pen I would do the silicone first, let it set for 24 hours then align the upper and lower body then press the parts together.
> 
> For those pens that are a bit "over aligned" already, you are correct, this might solve the problem.


 
Thanks George, I'm going to try it on one today. I made a Jr Statesman from a really figured piece of Mesquite and despite very careful "eyeballing' a very distinct area of grain is off just a lil. This may fix that and yeah that was my thoughts to do the silicone first ...then assemble
Thanks again, Mike


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## Dvoigt

I've never used these kit before but I just was wondering why would they continue to sell them if this is a common issue?  That is great that there is a solution, but in theory.... you shouldn't have to deal with a problem like that.


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## jyreene

That's what I was going to try once I move to capped pens.  Of course I don't think I would have thought to clean it up and make it look pretty.


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## Texatdurango

jyreene said:


> That's what I was going to try once I move to capped pens. Of course I don't think I would have thought to clean it up and make it look pretty.


 
* ? ? ?*


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## jyreene

The way you did it looks professionally done.  The way I would have done it would have looked like I shot the silicone out of a cannon across the room and just let it dry.  I don't quite have the eye for details and can get quite lazy.  So I would have had to shave off any excess rubber AFTER it dried rather than cleaning it up ahead of time.  Reason I know is I've had to use silicone to repair a few engines since people were always cheap and didn't want to replace parts.


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## schaf

Great idea,thank you.
The silicone can be messy to clean up,it seems to want to stick to everything.
Is it best to clean up while the silicone is still wet or could you wait until it is dry.

Terry


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## Texatdurango

Maybe I'm just lucky but I find that it's about a two minute job.  With the nozzle cut a hair wider than the upper and lower metal surfaces, the bead is applied in one swoop then running a cotton swab around the inside grabs 100% of the residue then again on the outside.  If you wait for it to dry you will find it a lot harder to remove.


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## mywoodshopca

Thanks! Just did my first fountain tonight and not impressed with the orings,etc so I will be doing this.


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## Texatdurango

I got an email this morning asking about what color silicone I used, black or clear.  I hadn't really thought of using clear since the black looks like it belongs, being adjacent to the black delrin threads.

Has anyone tried this using clear silicone, if so is it hard to see or do you think it looks better?

And while I'm posting this, it's been over a month now so as an update to those wanting me to keep them informed.  Using a 10x loup I can see no wear whatsoever on the emperor I carry everyday or on any of the Jr Gents I have in my desk carosel.  So far so good!


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## aggromere

*leather case*

Hey Tex, where did you get that leather case from?


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## Padre

Could you kindly, please, repost the pictures for those of us who are visual learners?  :biggrin:



Texatdurango said:


> The purpose of this post is to share something I have dont that I feel is noteworthy, NOT to start a debate over which kit is best or which is the worst or who has experienced this problem or who hasn't.
> 
> A known issue with several types of capped pens is that they often come loose in the pocket or in the case of fountain pens, they come loose then whatever fabric comes in contact with the nib changes color!
> 
> A commanly accepted "fix" was to use an 0-ring but after spending several months trying to find just the right o-rings to fit the caps I use, I finally gave up searching and looked at an alternative solution. I also thought the o-rings made the pens look cheesy and cheap!
> 
> My solution was a bead of silicone that won't fall out, is barely noticable if noticable at all and works better than an o-ring, in my opinion.
> 
> What I did was to get a tube of black silicone adhesive sealant and run a thin bead all the way around the inside of the cap (look closely at the photo below) and letting it completely cure for at least 24 hours before mating the lower pen together. After running the bead around I got a cotton swab and cleaned any "squish out" from the inside of the barrel. Then with a moistened (saliva) finger lightly ran the finger around the bead to give it a smooth appearance. Finally I removed any "squish out" from the outside of the cap.
> 
> I like the results so far, the seals give me just the right amount of "grip". What you see below are my guinee pigs. The Emperor on the right is my daily carry around pen and was the first to be done last week and so far is working GREAT. The others are on my desk but not used constantly but so far all are closing snugly with no signs of the seals flatenning out.
> 
> So..... if you are tired of your caps unscrewing themselves, grab a tube of silicone and give it a try!
> 
> Not that it matters but from left to right are a Jr Gent, Baron, Jr Gent, Full size Gent and an Emperor.


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## redfishsc

Also, could you comment on how the silicone handles long term use like this? Somehow I missed this lovely thread :frown: and this is a great idea.




Dvoigt said:


> I've never used these kit before but I just was wondering why would they continue to sell them if this is a common issue?  That is great that there is a solution, but in theory.... you shouldn't have to deal with a problem like that.




It is a common issue and it boggles me why they don't come up with something to fix it. Not enough people complaining (respectfully) about it. 

I've seen situations where we can make enough noise about a situation that it gets changed. Berea's Churchill and El Grande used to have problems with the nibs breaking off (thin plastic couplers) but after we had a nice thread here about it, they magically decided to start including metal couplers in the packs. Problem solved .


In all reality, this issue with our pens opening in our pockets is fairly easily solved by using a small leather pen pouch, which I do when carrying a FP. Most of my customers leave their FP's at their desk anyhow, so it works out at this point. I use mostly Barons but they are one of the more easy ones to have accidental openings.


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## 1nfinity

Thanks for sharing a cheap, simple, and effective solution to a somewhat bothersome issue.  There will be no more ink wicking in my shirt pocket.


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## Texatdurango

Well, sorry for not answering a few questions in a timely manner, I guess it shows that I'm not a "regular" anymore! 

First, below is one of the original photos I posted showing the little silicone rings I made. I probably mentioned somewhere that it probably doesn't matter what brand of adhesive you use _*BUT*_ in another thread it appears that some are having problems with their little seals falling out so I want to add the following.

"Silicones" may vary from brand to brand and I only tried the black "Permatex" sealant and one of the pens I made a seal for is one that I use on a regular basis and it is still intact after 1 1/2 years. It's probably been opened and closed 6,317 times since the seal was made and it still holds the cap on snugly.

The only thing I can say is that I have done this little modification to well over 100 pens and I haven't heard back from anyone about their seal coming loose or falling out so I can only ASSUME that the seals are all still working.

Last year I made a piercing tool from a dental drill which uses really tiny burrs and I got to thinking one day......... why not roughen up the inside surface where the silicone is applied to give the compound a little extra surface grit to "grab onto" rather than the slick plated surface. I don't know, that might have helped a lot but I have no comparison data to prove it one way or another.

That's about it, try it if you like or don't, I don't care, it won't bother me either way, I'm just sharing something that works for me!


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## alphageek

Thanks for the update George... Something to add to my next hardware store trip... 

I only hope I can make it look nearly as neat as yours.

Dean


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## jttheclockman

Just another one of these annoying things we need to modify on kits that are not cheap. It is ashame. Thanks for the reply.


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## ed4copies

Quote:
_I use on a regular basis and it is still intact after 1 1/2 years. It's  probably been opened and closed 6,317 times since the seal was made and  it still holds the cap on snugly.
_
Now I KNOW you are retired and have nothing to do, but I don't think you can remember enough to keep count, so WHERE DID YOU FIND A LITTLE COUNTER-THINGY!!!!

I WANT ONE!!!

Thanks!!!
And thanks for coming back to shed more light on this, George---you're ok!!


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## BigguyZ

I see now- so the silicone isn't really on the THREADS, but on the mating surface for the cap?  That makes sense.

The roughing idea makes sense.  I assume you haven't had any issues with the scratches causing the plating to come off?


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## maxwell_smart007

I guess I just got some bad silicone...I'll try again...


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## patsikes

I have done several fountain pens with this trick (clear GE silicone).  A couple have come out but they did it in the first couple of re-capings so I was able to re-do them.

I think it may be with the fact that when you use your finger to flatten the bead, you need to make sure it gets the air out from behind the silicone.


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## Texatdurango

BigguyZ said:


> I see now- so the silicone isn't really on the THREADS, but on the mating surface for the cap? That makes sense.
> 
> The roughing idea makes sense. I assume you haven't had any issues with the scratches causing the plating to come off?


 
I dug up another photo showing me applying the sealant.  Notice that this was before scratching the inside with a burr.  I cleaned the part with alcohol then put a thin bead directly from the tube where I cut as small a hole as possible. 

After applying the sealant I wet my finger with good ole saliva THEN when the bead was smooth, I would take a Q-tip and run around the inner edge to pick up any excess sealant.

After a while I found that a thinner bead (shown) worked just as well as a thicker bead and wonder if the thicker bead may be the cause of failures reported by some.

Haven't had any issues with the plating flaking off.  The burrs I use are REAL tiny and I don't get anywhere near any edge that would not be covered with sealant.


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## Smitty37

*Hmmm*



Texatdurango said:


> Stevej72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great suggestion, George. My FP has been driving me crazy lately with the cap coming loose, especially on days when I don't have a shirt pocket and carry it in the pocket of my slacks.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will be pleased with the results. Speaking of carrying a pen around your pants pocket..... This is the best friend your pen will ever have! When I leave the house, usually in shorts or bluejeans, this baby goes with me, and has for almost a year now and with a rub of a clean cloth can be placed next to any shiny new pen and hold it's own!
> 
> They really keep a pen looking new and of course the side benefit of people noticing when you pull it out of your pocket to use the pen, usually making a comment like "Wow, what a nice pen" to which you just have to reply as you hand it to them to examine "Oh this ole thing... I make these!"
Click to expand...

 
Do you think you'd be able to say that if it shared that pocket with my key ring with about a dozen keys, pocket knife, Zippo lighter, and loose change.  If you can, you have one heck of a tough pen there.


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## Smitty37

*Good idea*

That's a good idea.

You know though, it seems to me it is solving a problem that should not exist.  They have been making fountain pens with screw on caps for darn close to 100 years if not for 100 years and you'd think by now everybody in the world would have figured out how to keep the caps from coming off in the pocket.


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## 1080Wayne

Smitty37 said:


> That's a good idea.
> 
> You know though, it seems to me it is solving a problem that should not exist.  They have been making fountain pens with screw on caps for darn close to 100 years if not for 100 years and you'd think by now everybody in the world would have figured out how to keep the caps from coming off in the pocket.



We consumers are the problem ! We buy , and don`t complain . The problem is easily solved by going to a single start thread . The manufacturers believe that we are more concerned about having a cap which can be rapidly removed than we are about having one which is secure in our pockets .


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## Smitty37

*Hmmm*



ed4copies said:


> Quote:
> _I use on a regular basis and it is still intact after 1 1/2 years. It's probably been opened and closed 6,317 times since the seal was made and it still holds the cap on snugly._
> 
> Now I KNOW you are retired and have nothing to do, but I don't think you can remember enough to keep count, so WHERE DID YOU FIND A LITTLE COUNTER-THINGY!!!!
> 
> I WANT ONE!!!
> 
> Thanks!!!
> And thanks for coming back to shed more light on this, George---you're ok!!


I wonder if it is open or closed now...that of course is 12634 operations plus the number of times opened and closed since the post.


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## Texatdurango

Smitty37 said:


> Texatdurango said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stevej72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great suggestion, George. My FP has been driving me crazy lately with the cap coming loose, especially on days when I don't have a shirt pocket and carry it in the pocket of my slacks.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will be pleased with the results. Speaking of carrying a pen around your pants pocket..... This is the best friend your pen will ever have! When I leave the house, usually in shorts or bluejeans, this baby goes with me, and has for almost a year now and with a rub of a clean cloth can be placed next to any shiny new pen and hold it's own!
> 
> They really keep a pen looking new and of course the side benefit of people noticing when you pull it out of your pocket to use the pen, usually making a comment like "Wow, what a nice pen" to which you just have to reply as you hand it to them to examine "Oh this ole thing... I make these!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Do you think you'd be able to say that if it shared that pocket with my key ring with about a dozen keys, pocket knife, Zippo lighter, and loose change. If you can, you have one heck of a tough pen there.
Click to expand...

 
Not so tough, just well protected!  The sad thing about the internet is things never remain intact!  Did you notice the little red x below the text?  Well, there used to be a photo there!  I was talking about how nice the leather pouches were and how they kept the pen looking like new.

I have a snakewood emperor that goes everywhere with me.... in my pants pocket, going a little over two years now, not a scratch and it looks as good as it did the day I made it!


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## Manny

Texatdurango said:


> Well, sorry for not answering a few questions in a timely manner, I guess it shows that I'm not a "regular" anymore!
> 
> First, below is one of the original photos I posted showing the little silicone rings I made. I probably mentioned somewhere that it probably doesn't matter what brand of adhesive you use _*BUT*_ in another thread it appears that some are having problems with their little seals falling out so I want to add the following.
> 
> "Silicones" may vary from brand to brand and I only tried the black "Permatex" sealant and one of the pens I made a seal for is one that I use on a regular basis and it is still intact after 1 1/2 years. It's probably been opened and closed 6,317 times since the seal was made and it still holds the cap on snugly.
> 
> The only thing I can say is that I have done this little modification to well over 100 pens and I haven't heard back from anyone about their seal coming loose or falling out so I can only ASSUME that the seals are all still working.
> 
> Last year I made a piercing tool from a dental drill which uses really tiny burrs and I got to thinking one day......... why not roughen up the inside surface where the silicone is applied to give the compound a little extra surface grit to "grab onto" rather than the slick plated surface. I don't know, that might have helped a lot but I have no comparison data to prove it one way or another.
> 
> That's about it, try it if you like or don't, I don't care, it won't bother me either way, I'm just sharing something that works for me!



I remembered this thread when it was first written. I just used this solution with a customer who was having an issue. 

Thanks George!


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## Texatdurango

Wow, talk about one from the past! I'm just glad that they came out with the "square" threads and we could stop worrying about the caps coming loose..... at least on the Craft Supply kits!

I haven't used silicone on a cap in a long time now........ thank goodnes!


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## thewishman

I was thinking about this thread at work today. I get home and whoomp there it is.


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## GregMuller

*New Versions*

Been a while scince I brought new kits. Are you saying pens kits from CSUSA like the JR Gents and Jr statesmen no longer have the threading problem. I am about to purchased some new kits for a customer.


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## biednick

Just did this to a cocobolo euro that ruined a shirt friday, but I used black CA. It worked fine


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## t001xa22

George, I had to jump in here to thank you very much for your information. I have had issues in the past making caps and covers, and your info has solved my problems. I have been working on some orders for capped custom Xacto knives for a graphics shop, and some seam rippers. Your suggestions have now made the difference for me, so thanks again.


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## Texatdurango

t001xa22 said:


> George, I had to jump in here to thank you very much for your information. I have had issues in the past making caps and covers, and your info has solved my problems. I have been working on some orders for capped custom Xacto knives for a graphics shop, and some seam rippers. Your suggestions have now made the difference for me, so thanks again.


 
While this "fix" was intended for the Craft Supply Jr and Sr series of pens, it's good to hear that the ide can be implemented with other threaded items as well....especially sharp razor knives, it would be a pain (literally) to have one of those babies come uncapped in your pocket!


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## Texatdurango

GregMuller said:


> Been a while scince I brought new kits. Are you saying pens kits from CSUSA like the JR Gents and Jr statesmen no longer have the threading problem. I am about to purchased some new kits for a customer.


 
*Greg,* this fix was directed at the "old style" threads used in the JR and Sr series pens where the cap would easily work itself loose and just fall off.  Since this time, the kits have changed and now use "square threads" which have eliminated the problem so you should be good to go with any current orders.  Just make sure you don't order from a source that might still have kits using the older "sharp pitch" cap threads.


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