# Wood river plane review?



## Haynie (Oct 23, 2012)

Anyone use the woodriver planes and would you be willing to tell me what you think?

Lie-nielson, while pretty, are out of my range so not even considering them.


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## alamocdc (Oct 23, 2012)

You may be able to pick up a good old Miller Falls, or Stanley for around $25 if you look around. Are you looking for a #5 or something else? I know a guy who refurbs old planes and resells them at a decent price.


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## jj9ball (Oct 23, 2012)

I have a wood river #4 smoother.  I really like it.  For the money it seems to work pretty good.  I also have a #4 veritas and I wouldn't say it works any better than the wood river plane.  I would say if you are in the need of a plane and Lie Nielsen is out of your budget Wood River is a good way to go.  If you get your blade sharp the plane will perform really well.  I hope this helps.


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## Haynie (Oct 24, 2012)

Thanks.  I am looking for a #5 right now, actually I want a #5 or 6 a smoother, and a good block plane.  

I've got 5 waiting for rehab I rescued from a school auction and am slowly working on one of them but not getting it done very fast.  I want to be working with the tool not on it.  It is not as thrilling a process as I thought it would be.

Does this guy have a website bill?


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## KenV (Oct 24, 2012)

Page AZ is probably not the best location for finding a older plane that needs a bit of care and clreaning.

Got a pair (#3 & #4) in Tucson last winter for about $15 each and after a few hours of cleaning and back flattening, they were usable.   There are some old ones in AZ.

New -- I like the Lee Valley planes if I cannot find an old one.  The woodriver ones I have examined in Woodcraft were going to take some time to "tune up" .


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## Haynie (Oct 24, 2012)

Page is not the best location to find anything except a good view and a big lake.


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## Jim Smith (Oct 24, 2012)

If you're not adverse to using ebay, there are a number of #5 planes that look to be in good shape ranging in prices from $25-$35.  You can also find some good deals at shopgoodwill.com if you don't mind cleaning them up a bit.  Just a thought

Jim Smith


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## Haynie (Oct 24, 2012)

The point is I don't want to clean them up.  I have some that I thought would be fun to rehab.  Rehabbing is just not turning my crank.  I would rather be working with the tool instead of on them.  Is there a site somewhere that sells rehabbed old tools for less than the price of gold?


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## Ironwood (Oct 25, 2012)

Check out this guys site, he sells WoodRiver stuff, there are some reviews on there as well.
I know its an Australian site, but you might find some good info on there.
Jim is a good down to earth sort of a guy.

Jim Davey Planes & Sharpening - Home


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## Haynie (Oct 25, 2012)

Thank you


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## The Penguin (Oct 26, 2012)

FYI - I got an email this morning from Woodcraft - all woodrriver planes 15% off


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## pensbydesign (Oct 27, 2012)

remember woodcraft has a 90 day return, try it dont like return it i dont think you will bring it back.


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## anectine (Oct 27, 2012)

My local wodcraft owner told me to stay away from these due to soft metals used.  last year they had several on clearence and he said this was why they were on clearence.  They may have resolved this since that run, I don't know.  In the hand they feel heavy and worh a try.  If they do not hold an edge you can change the blade out with a higher quality.

I wonder  if he was just trying to get me to spend more money?

For a great lillte block plane I love the Rabot Kid take a look at the French website and search on youtube for demos.

rabot kid 24 boss multi-possibilités - MONTAGE


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## pensbydesign (Oct 28, 2012)

the problem was a the adjustment knob it was cast not milled that was fixed


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## plantman (Oct 28, 2012)

:bananen_smilies068:Hayne; Long story short !! You get what you pay for !! I have been collecting, making, and restoring wood and metal planes for over 50 years. Unless you buy one of the top name planes, you will not be happy with it when it comes out of the box !! Almost all other planes will need to be tuned up before they will perform the way they can and should. First the sole must be flattened or it will not cut even. Then the blade must be squared, sharpened with a double bevel, and polished to a mirror finish. You should be able to shave the hairs off your arm dry. Next the chip breaker must be square to the blade and at the proper angle with 1/64 clearance for the shavings. Now the blade must be set at the proper angle, corners slightly rounded over so they don't dig in, square to the sole with proper tension on the chip breaker, and depth of cut set. If you have to go through all of this on a new plane, why not buy one you can take out of the box and use, or pick up an older brand name plane, do the work, and have something to be proud of when your done. What do you want to do with the plane, maybe I can help you with a choise that is best suited for the task. Today's planes are not made the same as the old ones, they are made for mass production, unless you are willing to pay up for quality !! Jim S


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## Haynie (Oct 29, 2012)

Willing and able are two different things. When it comes to tools I know you get what you pay for and buy what you can afford.  I don't mind tuning I just don't get a kick out of a complete tool refinish, over haul, and tune up.  I seriously thought I would like it.  I don't.  Tune up is oK.  

I have a jointer and a planer so the planes will be mainly for finishing, flushing joints, and maybe some sizing of drawers.

If you have suggestions that would be great.  I have looked at Ebay and realized I don't have enough experience with the tool to know what I am getting myself into.


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## plantman (Oct 29, 2012)

Haynie said:


> Willing and able are two different things. When it comes to tools I know you get what you pay for and buy what you can afford. I don't mind tuning I just don't get a kick out of a complete tool refinish, over haul, and tune up. I seriously thought I would like it. I don't. Tune up is oK.
> 
> I have a jointer and a planer so the planes will be mainly for finishing, flushing joints, and maybe some sizing of drawers.
> 
> If you have suggestions that would be great. I have looked at Ebay and realized I don't have enough experience with the tool to know what I am getting myself into.


 
  Haynie; Since you have a jointer and a planer, you realy don't need a large plane #3 - #8. What you seem to need is a finish plane. One you can hold and use with one hand. If you are going to flush joints and work end grain, I would suggest a low angle Block plane. #s 220 - 120 - 60 - 60 1/2 - 9 1/4 - 9 1/2 - . The low angle will plane end grain without tearing and handle changing grain directions as well as burls. I use these planes all the time. Look in my photos and you will see several I have made and posted this month. You can find old, but good, planes at yard sales or flee markets for $5 to $25. New they run $35 to $250. I checked some prices in Woodcraft, and a Stanley 9 1/2 or 60 1/2 run around $105.00. The Woodriver 9 1/2 low angle ( 12* ) runs $95.00. Personaly if  were going new I would spend the extra $10 a buy the Stanley. You can always find parts if you need them. I have iron planes from the 1860s that work as good today as the day they were made. I think if you looked around, you can get a much better price somewhere else. I also have Lee Nielson planes that look and work excellent, but they don't slice wood any better than a properly tuned 100 year old Stanley.   Jim S


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