# Decal Questions



## Swagopenturner (Jul 19, 2014)

I've never done a decal blank before, but I'd better learn.  A customer is wanting his business symbol put on about a dozen pens!
    I ordered two packs of Clear Decal Paper, Decal Bonding Spray, and a bottle of Setting Solution.  
    Does the Setting Solution help smooth the decal out?  Is it worth the step?
    I know you can use other stuff besides the Decal Bonding Spray - Which works the best?
    Any other tricks to getting a professional looking product without seeing the edges of the decal?
    I plan on using either MS Word, Powerpoint, or Paint to manipulate the graphics.  Is there a better program?
    The customer is rustling up a high res graphic for me.  How high should I use?
    Thanks for everybody's help!


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## Phunky_2003 (Jul 19, 2014)

I use Avery clear labels.   I do recommend sealing with some type of bonding spray.  I use crystal clear spray acrylic.   Let that dry and cure.  24 hours.  Cut decal as close to image as possible.  I use Photoshop for my editing.  I am real familiar with it so I just use it.


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## larryc (Jul 19, 2014)

I just finished a 50 pen corporate logo order using decals for the logo.
I used the clear Testors decal from Hobby Lobby.
I wait 12 hours after printing on my inkjet printer.
I spray the decal with clear Krylon and wait another 12 hours.
I use American Holly blanks that have been turned, polished up to 12000 Micro mesh and six layers of CA.
After another 12 hours polish up to 12000 Micro mesh.
Wet decal (cropped about 1/8 " to the logo) for 15 seconds and then wait 90 seconds to apply to the blank that has been brushed with water.
Use distilled water.
Some say that you should not touch the blank after you have polished it but I have not had a problem. Some people may have more oily skin and that may cause a problem.
After sliding the decal onto the blank and making sure it is straight and oriented properly blot it with a paper towel.
I stroke the decal with my fingers and make sure that all bubbles are removed and the logo edges should be practically invisible at this point.
Wait 12 hours and apply six coats of CA and then wait 12 hours and polish to 12000 micro mesh.
Hope this helps


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## Holz Mechaniker (Jul 19, 2014)

Swagopenturner said:


> I've never done a decal blank before, but I'd better learn.  A customer is wanting his business symbol put on about a dozen pens!
> I ordered two packs of Clear Decal Paper, Decal Bonding Spray, and a *bottle of Setting Solution.  *
> Does the Setting Solution help smooth the decal out?  Is it worth the step?
> I know you can use other stuff besides the Decal Bonding Spray - Which works the best?
> ...



For starters, are you going to cast on tube that you have painted.  or are you putting a turned blank?


Setting solution is basically for models if you want to make the decal look as if it was actually painted on.. I really don't think you need it personally.
Hi Res Graphic, set the printer on the highest photo setting. If you have an HP Printer run the graphic though that photo printing software that comes with the driver.  and once printed let it set for at least an hour before applying the fixative.  The Fixative is basically Clear Acrylic Spray paint.  
When I do decal work I use Warm distilled water with a drop of dish detergent to make the water wetter.  Once applied I use a Make-up wedge sponge thingie to smooth out the decal and pull off excess water.  That is pretty much it. other than let the decal dry for at least a day.


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## navycop (Jul 19, 2014)

I use decal paper from decalpaper.com... I spray it with Krylon clear, it is dry by the the time I go from the office to the garage to spray it.. I read some Coat the blank with CA and let it dry before appling the decal. Oh and I just use word perfect to print out the decals. Put them at the top and cut. Then you have the rest of the sheet for more.


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## ottotroll (Jul 19, 2014)

I use Photoshop, Illustrator and indigo WS6000 digital label press, and either metallized or poly-prop label stock.... It's good to be in Printing, lol....


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## wouldentu2? (Jul 19, 2014)

Use highest resolution you can. Everything else you mentioned will work well.


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## Swagopenturner (Jul 20, 2014)

Holz Mechaniker said:


> For starters, are you going to cast on tube that you have painted.  or are you putting a turned blank?
> 
> 
> Setting solution is basically for models if you want to make the decal look as if it was actually painted on.. I really don't think you need it personally.
> ...


I forgot to mention these will all be on turned American Holly.  I plan on a few coats of CA on the blank before putting the decal on.
What other very light colored woods make good backgrounds for decals?


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## Holz Mechaniker (Jul 20, 2014)

Swagopenturner said:


> Holz Mechaniker said:
> 
> 
> > For starters, are you going to cast on tube that you have painted.  or are you putting a turned blank?
> ...



Yep, you will not need to use setting solution at all.  
Sealing the Holly with CA is fine, just make sure you sand it smooth.
Other light colored woods; Satin wood-yellowheart, Maple Hickory, Elm, Ash, however they will turn a light amber color with time. 

Any more Decal questions just ask me, pm's are welcomed.


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## bgarms755 (Aug 5, 2014)

Well Navycop, it must be a Navy thing. I waited for everything when I was in the Navy too and I don't do waiting well anymore. LOL
I use the clear Testors decals, print on my ink jet, let that dry maybe an hour, spray it with painters touch 2 gloss clear from home depot. ($3.77ea) 1 coat let it set maybe an hour, cut out my decal with scissors and drop it in the water Face Down and watch the paper , when the back of the paper is saturated (maybe 4 or 5 seconds) I pull it out and set it on paper towel face up for maybe 5 more seconds. Touch it with my finger to see if it is loose and stick it on the pen. I let a couple decals soak for 15 seconds like most people tell you and they don't stick around the edges. So I pull it from water as soon as it (paper back) is saturated and they stick every time very well.
The biggest problem is the size and shape of decal, I do a lot of ship silhouettes that are long (1 1/2"). If you use long decals MAKE SURE you turn your blank flat not gently arched like we almost always do or the decal won't lay flat. I have never used any bonder, or softener of any kind, but maybe I am just lucky. NOT ! Oh I use a program called GIMP if I need to alter photos, its a free download.


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