# Anyone use this for cutting blanks?



## TonyL (Jun 7, 2015)

PROXXON - Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80

If you have, what is your opinion on it please?

Thank you.


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## DCBluesman (Jun 7, 2015)

Be very careful with this. It has a very shallow depth of cut. "saw blade 3 1/8" x 1/16" x 3/8" (80 x 1.6 x 10mm), 24 teeth"


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## TonyL (Jun 7, 2015)

Thank you. It seems like it will cut a depth of at least 3/4 inch at 90 degrees(?). Am I reading the specs right?


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## Fay Prozora (Jun 7, 2015)

I use my 10" miter saw and I get clean cuts on it. I clamp my blanks to it and it does real well. Be very careful with any type of saw. Good luck with what ever saw you use.. Fay


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## TonyL (Jun 7, 2015)

Thanks Fay. I also use a 10 inch saw and get clean cuts. I was looking for something smaller. 

Anyone have experience with this model: PROXXON - Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80


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## mtassie (Jun 7, 2015)

I bought the harbor freight version and it's junk. I went back the my 10 in miter saw


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## TonyL (Jun 7, 2015)

Thank you.

Did anyone buy this one and have an opinion on this specific one: PROXXON - Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80


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## flyitfast (Jun 7, 2015)

We had a member demonstrate pen segmenting at our chapter meeting using this saw.
It seemed to cut a typical blank cleanly.  However, I think it had a stability issue on the right side of the blank with a larger than normal low area where the cutoff falls off.  It appeared difficult to hold the blank steady even with the attached clamp, especially with short blanks.
Obviously, this is a minimal observation, but I was not very impressed.  I do hear that this saw is pretty good for cutting brass tubes.

Keep asking, I'm sure someone must have one.

Gordon


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## TonyL (Jun 7, 2015)

flyitfast said:


> We had a member demonstrate pen segmenting at our chapter meeting using this saw.
> It seemed to cut a typical blank cleanly.  However, I think it had a stability issue on the right side of the blank with a larger than normal low area where the cutoff falls off.  It appeared difficult to hold the blank steady even with the attached clamp, especially with short blanks.
> Obviously, this is a minimal observation, but I was not very impressed.  I do hear that this saw is pretty good for cutting brass tubes.
> 
> ...


 
One of the Amazon reviewers said the same thing. Thank you.


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## PSNCO (Jun 7, 2015)

Sears.com

My son was intimidated by the 10" chop saw.  I picked this up for $60 a couple years ago.  It had blade safety issues and just picked up a refurb today for $55.  It's compact and cuts anything 2.5" or less for us.  (Anything larger and I go to my 10" saw.


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## TonyL (Jun 7, 2015)

Thank you. However, I am interested in the experience folks have with this one model: PROXXON - Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80

I have many ways to cut the blanks that I don't find intimidating and do the work quite nicely. I was hoping some IAP folks had experience with the Proxxon unit.

Thanks again!


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## The Penguin (Jun 7, 2015)

I have used one of those at another turner's shop.

not impressed...but then, I think we were using it to trim some small metal pieces.


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## TonyL (Jun 8, 2015)

Thank you Shawn.


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## Darkshier (Jun 8, 2015)

For most of my blanks I use the mini miter saw PSI carries but as mentioned earlier it has a shallow depth requiring readjustment to cut the whole blank. It can be tricky.


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## oneleggimp (Jun 8, 2015)

I tried the HF Model as well.  It went back for a refund.  Total JUNK.


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## TonyL (Jun 8, 2015)

oneleggimp said:


> I tried the HF Model as well.  It went back for a refund.  Total JUNK.


 
Did you then get the Proxxon?


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## Larry Hansen (Jun 9, 2015)

Tony:  I have one of these that I use for blanks and copper tubes.  It works great for me.  I do not use the measuring rod since it measures from the wrong direction since I measure and mark my items from left to right.  I cut slowly and it does precision work. The clamping system works great since you can make sure your material is flat on the table and held firmly. The safety shroud sometimes limits visibility setting up the cut since I need to sight the blade on the right side of my marks.  I want to redesign the stop rod to work on the left side rather than the right, since how it is set up the work between the blade and end stop is suspended and not supported.  I always cut my blank clamped with the surplus cut falling into the cut out area rather than the reverse.   I have enjoyed mine since it is designed for smaller objects (like pen work).  I do not use my 10" chop saw for pens.  I have the original Proxxon and not a copy.  It makes a difference.  I would buy it again.  It does need some mods for cut off measures and for lifting the blade guard for set up accuracy.


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## TonyL (Jun 9, 2015)

Thank you Larry. I watched their video again and I was surprised that the cut-off side (right side if facing the saw) is the piece that the proxxon intends for you to keep. Did you buy a finer tooth blade or are you using the stock blade? Thanks again!


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## wm460 (Jun 10, 2015)

Another type of saw I have read bout that has great reviews is the Brynes model saw.

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&...=OBq1hlQd1koD7Kr7bAsZkg&bvm=bv.95277229,d.dGY


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## Sylvanite (Jun 10, 2015)

I have the Proxxon mini chop saw (I bought it after burning out several HF saws), but I use it primarily for cutting brass tubes.  It has plenty of power, but does not support the cut-off end.  Therefore, it leaves a burr and sometimes flings the cut tube away from the blade.  I occasionally break a cut-off wheel at the arbor also.  Other than that, the saw cuts well.

For segmenting blanks, I prefer to use my Byrnes model saw.  The motor is sometimes slow to spin up, but it cuts great and is much more precise.

I hope that helps,
Eric


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## TonyL (Jun 10, 2015)

Thank you Eric. I am going to contact Proxxon and ask them about that. Unless the left side is intended to be your "work" piece. I will let all know.


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## TonyL (Jun 10, 2015)

Ok...I called Proxxon (in NC), and technical support advised to cut more slowly to avoid any burrs on the right side. I guess that is their "answer". Oh well, for cutting blanks, it is not much of a problem. For fine segmenting work, it may be.

We will see.

Thanks to all that have offered their opinions.


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## Alchymist (Jun 10, 2015)

Can't say anything about the Proxon saw, but the drill press is the cat's meow. For cutting blanks to length, my Hitachi 12"  (yes 12") SCMS works fine. If I'm not cutting a bunch, this:

Buck Bros. 6-1/2 in. Pro Coping Wood Handle Saw-12028 - The Home Depot

You would be surprised how accurate you can get with practice.  And for cutting brass tubes onsie- twoosies, jeweler's saw with fine blade.


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## TonyL (Jun 10, 2015)

I have seen penturning experts use even a less practical tool then a coping saw. .


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## shastastan (Jun 10, 2015)

PSNCO said:


> Sears.com
> 
> My son was intimidated by the 10" chop saw.  I picked this up for $60 a couple years ago.  It had blade safety issues and just picked up a refurb today for $55.  It's compact and cuts anything 2.5" or less for us.  (Anything larger and I go to my 10" saw.



Tried the url and they no longer have it.  I was just curious anyway.  I've read the reviews of the PDI cutoff saws.  I'm always interested, but I would rather have one that cuts thicker wood--say up to 2".  Instead, I use just a little hand saw and miter box.  Cuts are pretty fast with my Japanese dozuki saw--very sharp!


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## TonyL (Jun 13, 2015)

Well..it arrived today. Ready to go out of the box (I still read the instructions first  )
For cutting blanks and non-ferrous metal up to 1" at a 90 degrees...I like it. Perfect size for doing small work. Would love to see it for half the price, but that is what things cost (paid $235 thru Amazon). I am happy with it. Thanks for all your opinions!


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## VotTak (Jun 13, 2015)

$235 ? 
Isn't it slightly too much for the job it will perform?


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## TonyL (Jun 13, 2015)

I didn't like cutting blanks with a 10 inch saw and wanted to have something new to play with


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## t001xa22 (Jun 13, 2015)

Tony, I have been using a Ryobi 10" miter saw with a carbide plywood blade for over 5 years with very good results. The fine-set teeth will do a great job of clean cutting, and the precision of using the angle cut features is a great bonus. My best modification was making a secondary wood kerf-cut fence attached to the original metal fence. I can cut small short pieces without being concerned with loss of support for the piece. Just another perspective.


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## TonyL (Jun 13, 2015)

Thank you Bill. I have a Hitachi 10" miter saw with a Diablo thin kerf, 80 carbide tooth blade. I have used to cut well over 400 blanks. It does a great job and will continue to sit on my workbench. I was just looking for something much smaller to play with. Thanks again!


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## shastastan (Jun 13, 2015)

TonyL said:


> Thank you Bill. I have a Hitachi 10" miter saw with a Diablo thin kerf, 80 carbide tooth blade. I have used to cut well over 400 blanks. It does a great job and will continue to sit on my workbench. I was just looking for something much smaller to play with. Thanks again!



Hi Tony.  I can sure understand wanting a smaller saw to cut blanks.  I had a little craftsman 10" band saw that I was using, but gave it away because of too small a shop.  then I bought a saw that looks like an inverted saber saw blade.  it's a dud, IMO.  I've just gone back to using my Japanese dozuki, with a little miter box.  I also have a larger miter saw, but it's not handy to use for pen blanks.  We all usually end of finding something that will work for us.  Some times, we just bite the bullet and pay for the convenience.  I've done that with a few lathe tools.  I paid $80 for an HF 10" disk sander and I use it a lot more than I ever thought that I would.  No regrets on that purchase either.


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## 79spitfire (Jun 13, 2015)

Just think Tony, if you get into model ship building, you will be set too! 

I think that's a cool saw too...


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## Larry Hansen (Jun 15, 2015)

*Proxxon Saw Modifications*

Tony:  I just completed a mod for the guide system on my Proxxon chop  saw.  As you know this saw was designed for micro models so the measured  part falls to the right of the blade and is not supported.  This is  backwards for most of us who like to clamp our measured part in the vise  and have the extra fall off the right side of the blade.

Here is  how I modified my Proxxon so it cuts like a traditional chop saw.  The  steel block that holds the gauge/rod is held in place with two  M5.0.8 15mm cap screws.  Replace them with cap screws  at least 1/2" longer.   Fabricate a riser block 1/2" high and attach it  under the  original block.  Reverse the gauge/rod.   The gauge  now  rides flush on top of the clamping vise.   I tightened mine so it will  not  flop on the rod. Check for squareness of the gauge/rod with the bottom of the vise platform where the objects to be cut will rest.

The black metal guide now floats on top of the jaws ready to gauge  the length of blanks or brass tubes and clamp them in place with  precision in relation to the blade.  However most items are too small to fully engage the blade guide.  The final mod is to attach (epoxy) a  small vertical rod to the blade guide that is smaller than the smallest item  you will be measuring and clamping in the vise.  I attached a small rod  to the center of the blade guide and raised this small rod about 1/16" off the bottom  of the vise so it floats without rubbing.  Make sure to attach this to the blade with the vise in the closed position to support the small rod.   Now brass tubes can drop between the jaws and this guide post will engage them precisely as well as larger objects like pen blanks.

The easy way to use this set up, without using a scale for each cut, is  to use a reference gauge (tube  or blank).  Carefully lower the blade and insert the reference gauge  against the left edge inside tooth of the blade and slide the guide/rod  up against the left end of the gauge and lock the guide/rod in  position.  This works best for old eyes that have a hard time reading a  precise scale to the nearest 64th of an inch or mm.     I have photos  of this mod attached below that illustrate these steps.


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## TonyL (Jun 15, 2015)

Thank you! Very well done and illustrated! I will give it a try.


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## MrBulldog (Aug 13, 2015)

*Re: Harbor Freight Mini Cut Off Saw, 2"*

I purchased a mini cut off saw with a 2" blade from Harbor Freight yesterday and brought it home to try it. I was sorely disappointed and will not be using it to cut blanks. It might be suitable to cut brass tubing but it has too shallow a cut to even go half way thru an ordinary sized wood blank.

I am going to look for a larger sized chop saw. I want to cut off wooden blanks using different angles for making interesting blanks.

One thing that I liked about the saw was the small kerf and the fineness of the cut itself. But, it's not suitable for my purposes.


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## shastastan (Aug 14, 2015)

MrBulldog said:


> I purchased a mini cut off saw with a 2" blade from Harbor Freight yesterday and brought it home to try it. I was sorely disappointed and will not be using it to cut blanks. It might be suitable to cut brass tubing but it has too shallow a cut to even go half way thru an ordinary sized wood blank.
> 
> I am going to look for a larger sized chop saw. I want to cut off wooden blanks using different angles for making interesting blanks.
> 
> One thing that I liked about the saw was the small kerf and the fineness of the cut itself. But, it's not suitable for my purposes.



I thought that I could get by on the cheap, too.  I had looked at the small chop saw at PSI and also the Micromax catalog.  The reviews said the saw could not cut through a 3/4" blank.  I, too, wanted a small kerf.  I also bought the little saw from HF, but didn't even use it because of the lack of cut depth.  I finally bought a ryobi band saw from Home Depot for $129 (see below).  I'm very pleased with it.


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## csr67 (Aug 14, 2015)

shastastan said:


> MrBulldog said:
> 
> 
> > I purchased a mini cut off saw with a 2" blade from Harbor Freight yesterday and brought it home to try it. I was sorely disappointed and will not be using it to cut blanks. It might be suitable to cut brass tubing but it has too shallow a cut to even go half way thru an ordinary sized wood blank.
> ...



I too bought that same Ryobi Band Saw from Home Depot.  It works great for cutting blanks to length!  It also came in very handy on a recent wood floor installation I did for cutting notches in the wood planks.


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## oneleggimp (Aug 14, 2015)

I bought the Harbor Freight Version and took it back the Very Next Day  Got a refund.  Complete JUNK.


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## Skie_M (Aug 14, 2015)

Hmm ... I've seen the HFT saw at the store and was interested in getting it for milling my blanks.  I didn't think it wouldn't be capable of cutting a 3/4 inch blank.  With a blade arbor of around half an inch, you should get 1.5 inches of cutting depth, so I don't see the issue .... is something getting in the way of the cutting action?


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## sbwertz (Aug 14, 2015)

I use the little HF 2" version for cutting brass tubes.  I wouldn't try it for blanks, but it is certainly the easiest and cleanest way I have found to cut my own tubes for custom pens.  (On sale this week for $20).


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## Rockytime (Aug 14, 2015)

I use the HF 9" bandsaw. Great little machine.


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## shastastan (Aug 19, 2015)

Rockytime said:


> I use the HF 9" bandsaw. Great little machine.



Hi Rocky.  Glad the HF is working for you.  I had to discover the type of  saw that's best for me.  I was trimming blanks by hand with my dozuki saw.  The 9" band saw is even better because I can nip just a tad off the end and finish it up with just a couple of passes on the disk sander.  I've started trimming the blanks even before I drill the holes now and just leaving enough for a slight inset for the tubes. YMMV

Stan


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## Skie_M (Aug 19, 2015)

Well, Stan, that only works if you can drill a straight hole.  Sometimes those bits do like to wander! 


Good luck to ya!


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## shastastan (Aug 20, 2015)

Skie_M said:


> Well, Stan, that only works if you can drill a straight hole.  Sometimes those bits do like to wander!
> 
> 
> Good luck to ya!



Well, I can drill a straight hole using the pen jaws on my Vicmarc chuck.  Even if the hole is a little off sometimes, I've had no problems trimming the blanks on the band saw with the tubes already glued it.  I don't think I'm understanding your comment though.


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## Skie_M (Aug 20, 2015)

My comment means ...

Sometimes I can't drill a straight hole, so I can't use your method.  :tongue:


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## shastastan (Aug 21, 2015)

Skie_M said:


> My comment means ...
> 
> Sometimes I can't drill a straight hole, so I can't use your method.  :tongue:



Oh, I've had my share of problems getting the holes straight.  I used to drill them on the drill press.  I used a pen blank vise.  I had more holes off than straight.  I thought it was run out so I replaced the belts with link belts and the chuck with a jacobs ball bearing chuck.  Still had problems and it was the vise.  next I tried a pen blank chuck from PSI.  It was a lot better, but not always 100% accurate.  Someone suggested using shorter drill bits.  I got some 7mm on amazon and they helped a lot.  I still use them with my vicmarc chuck pen jaws.  I'm ashamed to admit that it has taken me a few years to consistently get straight holes.  Thankfully, there were very holes  so far off that I had to throw the blank away, but life is a lot easier with straight holes.  Good luck in finding a solution to your problem.


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## Skie_M (Aug 21, 2015)

I drill on the lathe by hand, usually, unless I want/need a very straight hole.


I don't have a drill blank chuck or a vice made to hold a blank vertically, and I know my drill press does a sloppy job ....

So, I turn my blanks round between centers on my lathe, first.

Then, I chuck it in my 3-jaw chuck (don't have a 4-jaw yet ... too expensive).  The 3-jaw will center round stock pretty much automatically.

I have my 7mm bit held in the chuck of a 3/8's inch keyless drill chuck that I have removed from a drill ... it makes a great handle.  I hold it BY HAND as I drill through my blanks at around 1200 rpm.  The holes are reasonably straight and don't get out of round much but sometimes I get a little oversized at the start.


More recently, when I want a much straighter hole, I pull out my #1mt 3/8's inch chuck (from PSI) and I drill using my tailstock.  I've yet to see a hole more than 1mm off from center coming out the back end of a blank.


In any case, I don't really NEED to bother with an accurate hole, as long as it's accurate enough.  I can true the blank up to the barrel tube and turn it on the lathe with no problem.  It's only after the blank is glued up that I need real accuracy.  Till then, it's close enough for government work, and close enough for me.


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