# Best way to clean surface rust off Sorby lathe tools



## wyone (Jan 30, 2015)

I was browsing Craigslist the other day and came across someone selling a set of Sorby lathe tools.  I actually bought the set for $40.  It is a full set of 8 pieces, along with a very delicate Ashley Isle parting tool.  

They are older, as they have the old painted handles that are just a single taper along the length of the handles.  With the exception of the skew and a 3/4 gouge, I do not think any of the tools has ever been used.  I am almost positive they have never been sharpened.

I am looking forward to seeing how they perform as opposed to my Buck Brothers, but there is some surface rust on the  shafts of the tools.  I am certain I could just take a wire wheel to them and clean it off, but wondering if there is a better way of doing that.

Any ideas?  

I am thinking I got a decent deal even with the rust, which is really pretty minimal.  I wish I knew if they were carbon steel or HSS.


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## magpens (Jan 30, 2015)

YES, you got a GOOD DEAL !  Even without seeing them, I would say that.   You should be able to buy a bottle of rust removal fluid or gel from a hardware store or a machine tool store.  I have found that works quite well although it may tend to leave a darkened patch on the tool where the rust was.   Rub/spray with WD-40 afterwards.


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## terry q (Jan 30, 2015)

If the rust is light fine sand paper will work.


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## Charlie_W (Jan 30, 2015)

The wire wheel is good except for the rust dust in the air. You can wet sand with whatever grit of sandpaper you need with WD 40 or some light machine oil. If the rust is under the gouge where it would ride on the tool rest, you might need a metal file first and then wet sand.
When you are done, rub a little paraffin wax on the tool steel and buff off with a rag. Parafin wax is great for tool tests, lathe beds, anything that needs protecting and provides a great sliding surface. Saw tables, fences, router bases etc!


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## Sylvanite (Jan 30, 2015)

I would use light oil and steel wool rather than sandpaper.  The recommendation to wax afterwards is a good one.  Paraffin would work well, as would be paste wax or lanolin. 

Regards,
Eric


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## OZturner (Jan 30, 2015)

People smarter and more experienced than me Mitch, can tell Carbon Steel and HSS by the colour of the sparks from the grinding wheel. 
If my memory is correct Carbon Steel sparks are a bright red to white, depending on you aggression, where as HSS is a dull grey to black.
Suggest you verify with Dr Google, I am sure the correct answer will there.
Regardless of material, a Good Buy.
Brian


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## KenV (Jan 30, 2015)

I clean off a lot of surface rust with a single edge razor blade, and it keeps surfaces from being marked.  

Johnson Paste Floor Wax has been used for years with success.  Works on lathe ways too.   Not too slick -- and not too sticky.

If it is high speed steel, it will be labeled unless it is really really really old.

If not labeled, treat it as if it was high carbon steel and you cannot go wrong.


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## triw51 (Jan 30, 2015)

OZturner said:


> People smarter and more experienced than me Mitch, can tell Carbon Steel and HSS by the colour of the sparks from the grinding wheel.
> If my memory is correct Carbon Steel sparks are a bright red to white, depending on you aggression, where as HSS is a dull grey to black.
> Suggest you verify with Dr Google, I am sure the correct answer will there.
> Regardless of material, a Good Buy.
> Brian


 

Brian
In my experience it is not the color but the way the sparks explode. A low carbon steel the sparks will shoot straight out, like a tracer bullet. The higher the carbon content the sparks “explode” like fireworks branching out with many arms. The more of this reaction you get the higherthe carbon content. This only works to determine the carbon content not alloys. IMHO
I also agree that steel wood and light oil to remove rust
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## TimS124 (Jan 30, 2015)

Soak the metal parts in fresh white vinegar (suspend the handles so they stay dry).  The vinegar will react with the iron-oxide (the rust itself) much faster than the "good" iron.  Check every hour or so and wipe away any rust that's reacted with the vinegar.

This is a slow process so don't be surprised if little has happened the first time or so you check on progress. 

*NOTE:  *the iron oxide will be turned into a black goo that will stain pretty much everything it touches (especially skin).  Wear nitrile gloves if that bothers you.  The stain wears off...eventually.  

When the rust is gone, stop the soaking, dry the tool, and apply wax or oil to help protect against future moisture exposure.

It behaves like a slow-motion version of naval jelly giving you much better control over how long the metal is exposed to the acid you're using to clean the iron...


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## wyone (Jan 30, 2015)

I have done some rust removal of larger items using a battery charger, some sacrificial rebar and borax.  It worked awesome, but hesitant to do it with this.  

I did notice that the lathe tools are much longer than the Buck Brothers tools I have been using.  I carried them to the shop and they are almost 20 inches compared to the 15 the Buck Brothers are.


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## plantman (Jan 30, 2015)

When restoring many of my antique tools I use the following methods. If the rust is quite heavy, I will sand blast with glass beads. They will not remove any good metal. Soda blasting is also kind to the metal. On moderate rust, I will use a medium wire wheel to remove the rust followed by a fine wire wheel to bring back the shine. neather of these methods will remove any pitting. For light rust or surface rust, I use Murphys Oil Soap in gell form and OOOO steel wool. This also woorks well on all wooden handles to clean dirt and grime without removing the patina that has taken many years to form. Another good  idea for removing light rust or stains is called Bar Keepers Friend, been around since the late 1800's, it's a cleanser used to polish bar tops and stainless steel. Should be able to be found in any kitchen or food store. You made quite a score on these tools and they should serve you, your children, and your grandchildren  well !!!!   Jim   S


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## Wood Butcher (Jan 30, 2015)

Sandflex blocks from Klingspor in Hickory, SC.  They come in fine, course and medium, work great.
WB


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## wyone (Jan 30, 2015)

Also read.. to make the vinegar more effective..  add 1 cup of salt per gallon.. but then you have to neutralize the acid after with baking soda


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## flyitfast (Jan 30, 2015)

PB Blaster from an auto parts store.  It will take rust off anything.
gordon


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## SDB777 (Jan 31, 2015)

I was just hoping to see a photo of a $40 8-pcs set of Sorby tools......rusted or not, a deal is a DEAL!


Scott (where are my Clist deals at) B


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