# Best Drill Bits for Metal Layers



## jrista (Mar 19, 2022)

I'm trying to get into segmenting. So far, I've drilled only the whole blanks, but the prevailing recommendation is to drill each segment independently, including metal layers. I have mostly bradpoint bits, which don't work well with metals. I'm curious if anyone has recommendations for drill bits that work well with metal, and ideally work well with wood or metals. 

Thanks!


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## leehljp (Mar 19, 2022)

Not the best per se, but very helpful and lots of fractional increases that make it more than worth it:
The 115 piece Cobalt drill set from HF. They have been excellent in drilling in metal for me.








						Cobalt Drill Bit Set, 115 Piece
					

Amazing deals on this 115Pc Cobalt Drill Bit Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com
				




Again there are better bits for both (wood and metal) out there and I have numerous individual bits from different vendors that are excellent. But most of my individual ones are metric and were purchased when I lived in Japan.


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## bsshog40 (Mar 19, 2022)

I bought some DrillHog bits a while back and they work pretty good. A little pricey but nice and sharp.


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## jrista (Mar 19, 2022)

leehljp said:


> Not the best per se, but very helpful and lots of fractional increases that make it more than worth it:
> The 115 piece Cobalt drill set from HF. They have been excellent in drilling in metal for me.
> 
> 
> ...


Wow...

For the sheer number of bits you get in that set, the price isn't bad! I think I spent $75 on my much smaller set of imperial bradpoints... Thanks for the link!


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## jrista (Mar 19, 2022)

bsshog40 said:


> I bought some DrillHog bits a while back and they work pretty good. A little pricey but nice and sharp.


Thanks for the ref. I found a set similar to the one Hank shared. Its more expensive, but, the DrillHogs are really nice. They have Molybdenum in them, which I guess makes them M7. The nice thing about both these sets is they have nearly everything...including A-Z and #0-60.


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## jttheclockman (Mar 19, 2022)

I would not get bogged down with drill bit names and things. If you are buying kits for the first time I recommend you get a bit that is made for that kit other than brad point bits. Brad points bits are good for drill soft woods only. The smaller the bit the more it will have a tendency to bend and follow grain. Drilling into heavy grained wood with brad point bits can become a problem because of wandering. I have a set and use them for face drilling only. Never use to drill end grain because of what I mentioned. Yes you can get into buying Irwin bits that come with price tag but I have several sets of Harbor freight bits I use all the time and they serve me well. Then I have a couple Dewalt sets for more important work. I like to use Titanium bits. They hold an edge longer even the cheap ones. Twist bits are the way to go when drill metals. You like to do alot of studies so check out the different angle twist bits and compare with the ratings if you like. Maybe that will be of some help choosing for you. 

Drilling each segment before building a blank has its advantages. Is it the only way, absolutely not. Many people build blank and then drill. They find that easier. I have done both ways. What I find easier when building a blank to be able to size the pieces exactly when using various bands. Drilling metals on an angle is where the stress is more so. Just need good glue, good support, and lots of prayers and you should have no problem.


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## jrista (Mar 20, 2022)

jttheclockman said:


> Twist bits are the way to go when drill metals. You like to do alot of studies so check out the different angle twist bits and compare with the ratings if you like. Maybe that will be of some help choosing for you.


Just to make sure I understand your meaning here...when you say Twist, do you mean something like this:









						Fisch HSS Pen Making ''O'' Drill Bit - 8.03mm
					

Designed especially for turning projects, this 8mm bit drills quickly and cleanly through end grain and acrylic without breakout on entrance or exit.




					www.rockler.com
				




So far, all of my letter bits have this kind of twist to them. I thought it was just how lettered bits were, but the Harbor Freight drill bit set seems to have everything (and they are cobalt bits as well, which should hold an edge for a long time), including lettered and # bits, and they all look like "normal" bits to me.


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## jttheclockman (Mar 20, 2022)

jrista said:


> Just to make sure I understand your meaning here...when you say Twist, do you mean something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those are more specialized wood and acrylic twist bits. I do not use them I use the standard HSS high speed steel twist bits that are good for metals and wood. As I said they come in different angles of cut too. 118* and 135* are common. There is charts on which angle is best. There are charts on what coating on these bits are best such as titanium and cobalt. I will leave that to you to tract down and test if you like. But as I said I buy the HF or my better bits are Dewalt 135 degree twist titanium bits. I use them for everything. If you do a search here you will see threads on bits and people explaining why they use such and such angle and the main reason are grabbing of soft metals. I can not confirm that or deny it because I have no problem with the bits I use and never did any testing. Good luck. By the way yes on the HF sets having all bits numbered and letter. You can find these larger sets in different brand but for my money HF does well here. I have a large set and actually just bought another 2 sets when they were on sale a few months ago. Have a set in garage workbench too. Handy. 


https://www.amazon.com/Hardened-Stainless-Plastic-Indexed-Storage/dp/B086GGN7XR/ref=sr_1_12?adgrpid=1331509145350481&hvadid=83219560639313&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=96939&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-83219668127583:loc-190&hydadcr=1613_13458079&keywords=drill+bit+set+hss&qid=1647787383&sr=8-12&th=1


https://www.nccuttingtools.com/7-tips-for-selecting-the-best-hss-drill-bits-for-metals-steel.html


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## sorcerertd (Mar 20, 2022)

jrista said:


> Just to make sure I understand your meaning here...when you say Twist, do you mean something like this:


I believe JT means the regular jobber bits. One thing about the jobbers is that they are cheap and easy to sharpen (the drill doctor is a good investment).

I personally love the parabolic flutes like that Fisch bit has.  They pull the swarf out nicely to prevent (or delay) overheating, but they do tend to wander (ie. bend a little following the wood grain through the blank).  I have enough trouble with that on a plain blank, so I wouldn't attempt to use them on a segmented one.

Unfortunately, I can't share much experience with drilling segmented blanks with mixed materials as I've only used soda can material in mine so far.


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## jrista (Mar 20, 2022)

Thank you all for your responses. I think I'm gonna pick up the HF set. I drill more than just pens, so having a complete set will be nice. I think I'll also be picking up a drill doctor...the 750X. I have bits larger than 1/2". I am curious, can the Drill Doctor handle metric bit sizes as well? I suspect the diameter does not actually matter as long as it is between the end limits.


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## leehljp (Mar 20, 2022)

jrista said:


> Thank you all for your responses. I think I'm gonna pick up the HF set. I drill more than just pens, so having a complete set will be nice. I think I'll also be picking up a drill doctor...the 750X. I have bits larger than 1/2". I am curious, *can the Drill Doctor handle metric bit sizes as well?* I suspect the diameter does not actually matter as long as it is between the end limits.


Sure can; No problem with that. 1/8" / 3mm and smaller get difficult to do, but 3/16 or 4 mm and up are OK for me.


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## Joebobber (Mar 20, 2022)

I got tired of dull bits so I bought a drill doctor.  Took a few tries to get it right but now i have never had trouble with dull bits.


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## jttheclockman (Mar 20, 2022)

jrista said:


> Thank you all for your responses. I think I'm gonna pick up the HF set. I drill more than just pens, so having a complete set will be nice. I think I'll also be picking up a drill doctor...the 750X. I have bits larger than 1/2". I am curious, can the Drill Doctor handle metric bit sizes as well? I suspect the diameter does not actually matter as long as it is between the end limits.


yes


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## wouldentu2? (Mar 20, 2022)

A center drill bit makes starting the hole more accurate since it contacts a smaller area and does not flex. HF has them for a small price.


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## sorcerertd (Mar 21, 2022)

wouldentu2? said:


> A center drill bit makes starting the hole more accurate since it contacts a smaller area and does not flex. HF has them for a small price.


I second this recommendation, which was received here, so there are definitely more folks that will agree with it than just me.


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## PenPal (Mar 21, 2022)

I love the comments ,my experience tells me never to use drills with flat lands as the bog down layered material,this was exemlyfied? when I drilled Mammoth Tooth my drill of choice was made necessary because it was like drilling in petrified rock,I won easily using one of those universal bits with the ability to drill through files and glass,the tooth required pressure to drill through the layers of glass formed over the ages.


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## jrista (Mar 21, 2022)

PenPal said:


> I love the comments ,my experience tells me never to use drills with flat lands as the bog down layered material,this was exemlyfied? when I drilled Mammoth Tooth my drill of choice was made necessary because it was like drilling in petrified rock,I won easily using one of those universal bits with the ability to drill through files and glass,the tooth required pressure to drill through the layers of glass formed over the ages.


Exemplified. 

I've been very, very seriously considering some mammoth tooth blanks. I guess I'm a sucker for exotic and rare blanks. I picked up some Conway Stewart blanks recently, along with some other rare blanks from historic pen companies. I've picked up some other interesting and rarer materials (such as certain trustone I've only ever found in these 1.5"x1.5"x6.5" blocks that had to be cut down on the bandsaw). I've wondered how the mammoth tooth would handle... So far, I have only found it in one color that was pen blank size, and wasn't really what I wanted...

I did some more research, looked at a bunch of other drill bit brands, including Norseman. The Norseman bits seem to be particularly highly regarded, and they seem to have some interesting bit designs (the way they do their twist, I guess...it looks the same from the outside, but is nuanced in certain ways), and apparently they cut exceptionally well, especially in metals (steel). For a drill bit set the same as the one from Harbor Freight, the Norsman set is nearly $400... 

I think if drilling was my life, I'd get the Norseman set. ;P For what I do though, the HF set still seems to be THE unbeatable deal. They are cobalt steel, and with a drill doctor should last a long, long time. 

I have found one thing about the drill doctor. A number of people complain that the little sharpening drum inside (which looks a bit like a CBN sharpening wheel) leaves a rougher surface than the bits have right out of the box. Has anyone who has used the drill doctor experienced this? Does it matter?


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## PenPal (Mar 23, 2022)

jrista said:


> Exemplified.
> 
> I've been very, very seriously considering some mammoth tooth blanks. I guess I'm a sucker for exotic and rare blanks. I picked up some Conway Stewart blanks recently, along with some other rare blanks from historic pen companies. I've picked up some other interesting and rarer materials (such as certain trustone I've only ever found in these 1.5"x1.5"x6.5" blocks that had to be cut down on the bandsaw). I've wondered how the mammoth tooth would handle... So far, I have only found it in one color that was pen blank size, and wasn't really what I wanted...
> 
> ...


My Experiences have been to buy in sets if you amortise them they only cost peanuts this way. Now as an 87 yr old I have discarded the desire to build a stone lathe because it is tough stuff.Sorry my computer chucked a lifetime of pics months agon,one time I could illustrate with pics.Enjoy working with Mammoth Tooth ,Google this subject ,mine came from Canada via Russia and this guy is wonderful IMHO.


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## NGLJ (Mar 26, 2022)

I start with 4 flute carbide endmills (6mm, 8mm and 10mm) depending upon the tube size. I start with 6mm and work my way up. I finish off with good quality brad point bits. Good quality bits are worth the price. They stay sharp and last a long time. I get mine from Lee Valley. I am often drilling multiple staved blanks at an angle (into end grain) which for wood has to be one of the hardest things to do reliably. Occasionally I get a break but after re-gluing it usually works the second time. I have had equal success with multi-stave acrylic blanks. Starting at 6mm and working up takes more time but repairing broken blanks takes longer and a gradual approach is less wasteful. There is nothing more disheartening than to see several hours of careful prep than to see it wasted either at the drilling stage or on the lathe. Keeping it in one piece on the lathe is a different topic.


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