# ca and blo finish



## jeff3285 (Dec 21, 2017)

I have been watching some you tube videos and notice that some use blo and ca for a finish,,,can anyone give me some info on that process,,it seems like it would actually be a easier finish using the blo with the ca,,or I actually thought about using the blo and ca for the first 2 coats then maybe switch to a thin ca for about 2 to 3 more coats,,,all comments would be appreciated,,thank you


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## JohnU (Dec 21, 2017)

I used CA /blow when I first started but found it not to be as durable as a straight CA finish.  Now I just start with 2 layers of thin and about 5-6 layers of medium ca.  Then lightly sand it smooth, use a light touch with the extra fine steel wool, then micro mesh and polish.  Doesn't really take any more time than CA/blo once you get used to it, but is a better finish IMHO.


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## dogcatcher (Dec 21, 2017)

I use BLO with my CA finish.  I have had some other "experts" say that unless you let it fully cure that the BLO finish will shrink and cause "goofy" problems.  It hasn't caused any problems so far, so I will continue with using BLO with CA for one of my finishes.


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## budnder (Dec 21, 2017)

I started out trying to do a straight CA finish and had bad results. I had much better luck with BLO/CA, so I did that for awhile. I occasionally had issues with BLO/CA where i would get "dull" spots where it looked like the CA wasn't sticking, which I blamed on the BLO. I spent more time looking into why I needed the BLO to get the CA to go on smooth and "discovered" that I believe it has to do with the brand/type of CA I was using. When I switched to a different brand/type (I now use Satellite City thin and medium), I was able to do a straight CA finish with good results.

The CA I had issues with (Stick-fast) I felt was too "hot" - it set up and grabbed too quickly. The finish on a few of those early Stick-fast pens also cracked a few months after it was applied, which is another issue. The Satellite City stuff seems to be more forgiving - it gives me several seconds before it sets up, and pens I did a year ago look the same today. 

I found this chart interesting, as it posits an idea about which CA's are good and which one's are bad. I note that it correctly categorizes my own experience with Sitck-fast and Satellite City.


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## MRDucks2 (Dec 21, 2017)

I piddled with BLO/CA on a couple of pens (also using Stickfast) with good results even though I wasn’t having a big issue with just CA.  Then turned a spectra ply pen in which I wanted the light colored plys darker so used BLO/CA and had a mess, re finished 3 times before finally using just CA. Looking back (and reading on here) I believe the issue was the BLO did not absorb into the spectra ply like it does with wood and left me with a gooey mess. 


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


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## JohnU (Dec 22, 2017)

I guess I should have included I currently use EZ bond CA for straight Ca finishes with no problems.  Just now finishing up a Christmas group of 40 pens all with 5 coats of medium CA over 2 coats of thin, then sanded and polished , with no problems.  I'm a firm believer in finding what works best for you and be consistent.  Good luck!


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## sbwertz (Jan 23, 2018)

dogcatcher said:


> I use BLO with my CA finish.  I have had some other "experts" say that unless you let it fully cure that the BLO finish will shrink and cause "goofy" problems.  It hasn't caused any problems so far, so I will continue with using BLO with CA for one of my finishes.



My purse pen has Young's CA/BLO finish.  I've been carrying it for seven years now, and the plating on the parts is beginning to wear, but the wood still looks great.


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## JimB (Jan 24, 2018)

I usually do a BLO/ca finish. Just be sure not to use much BLO. You just want enough to cover the blank. Usually a single drop, maybe 2 does the trick. Wipe off any excess.


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## leehljp (Jan 24, 2018)

BLO is not absolutely necessary. I used it for a while because that is what I read here (years ago). For me being a "logical" thinking person kept asking "WHY" is it needed? Answers were pure speculation. Testing by me and a few others (which can be considered purely subjective) did not prove anything one way or the other. If it doesn't help, then it is just an extra (unnecessary) step for me. If it does help, then that is good. 

Sharon, above, said in another post on another thread how it aids in the finishing process for the people she works with. It takes a keen observer to notice that. :good: For me, I have some and use it on some woods but not on others. I don't use it to aid the finish/feel or application. I do use it on some amber and brown woods to give it a better tone. I always try the BLO on a cut-off piece to see if it gives me an enhanced color or not. I do NOT use it on holly or blood wood. It makes whiter holly look ivory toned and it causes bloodwood to have a hint of an Orange tint, neither of which I usually want. 

I most certainly do not use it on oily woods if applying a CA finish as it can reduce the adherence of the CA to the blank and aid in causing "lifting" of CA at the ends of the finished blank.

Experience and personal preferences should determine its (BLO) use or non use.

*Adding in:* If you apply CA with paper towel (PT), it could be more beneficial in that BLO aids in adding more CA to the blank, and does lubricate it some. What I mean by this if you apply the BLO to the PT and onto the blank, and then add CA onto the PT over the BLO, more CA will get to the blank. Not using BLO on PT does cause the PT and CA to sometimes adhere to the turning blank! 

Again, that is part of the reason I don't use PT. I use applicators that puts 100% of the CA onto the turning blank. (I started out turning pens when living overseas and CA was EXPENSIVE. PT absorbs about 80% of the CA in my estimate/experience. With BLO as a backer on the PT I would surmise that around 50% is absorbed into the PT.


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## Paul in OKC (Jan 24, 2018)

I use CA/BLO. How I do it is to put a drop or two of blo on a folded paper towel, then a two drops of thicker CA. Turn on the lathe and 'sneak' up, as in I touch the pen with the paper towel first, then ease up to the solution as I work up and down. Have had good luck with this. YMMV


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## Dieseldoc (Jan 24, 2018)

*CA application*



leehljp said:


> BLO is not absolutely necessary. I used it for a while because that is what I read here (years ago). For me being a "logical" thinking person kept asking "WHY" is it needed? Answers were pure speculation. Testing by me and a few others (which can be considered purely subjective) did not prove anything one way or the other. If it doesn't help, then it is just an extra (unnecessary) step for me. If it does help, then that is good.
> 
> Sharon, above, said in another post on another thread how it aids in the finishing process for the people she works with. It takes a keen observer to notice that. :good: For me, I have some and use it on some woods but not on others. I don't use it to aid the finish/feel or application. I do use it on some amber and brown woods to give it a better tone. I always try the BLO on a cut-off piece to see if it gives me an enhanced color or not. I do NOT use it on holly or blood wood. It makes whiter holly look ivory toned and it causes bloodwood to have a hint of an Orange tint, neither of which I usually want.
> 
> ...



So how do you apply the CA w/out PT?


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## leehljp (Jan 24, 2018)

Dieseldoc said:


> So how do you apply the CA w/out PT?



First, this is not a new thing, it has been around for ages.

Some people use the little bags that parts come in. Slip it over a finger, and then under or beside the turning blank, add a few drops of CA and rub it the length of the blank. 

Some people use Michaels and Hobby Lobby foam sheet layers. Cut a piece about an inch or inch and a half wide, apply a few drops of CA and the foam spreads it evenly from one end to the other. I haven't used this as I always have enough other material around. 

Other Material: I have used a rubber glove or lately latex gloves, add a few drops to a finger and wipe lightly on the turning blank from end to end. (You need to be experienced in using a latex like glove or it will get caught and wrap around the spinning blank. )

I use thin nylon like pieces (similar to thin tupper-ware tops). I cut these into squares. And do the same as above. Even thin playing card stock will do but the best ones are the plastic playing cards. 

Basically material that does not absorb the CA and is flat and smooth and somewhat flexible.


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