# Using a fountain pen for the first time



## arw01 (Nov 7, 2010)

A Berea kit, american flat top fountain pen or something like that.

The first nib from one of the pens didn't start writing when it hit the paper.  I was working on shaking the ink down a bit more and dropped it.  That bent the nib.

So I got another nib and the little feather plastic thing out of another kit and this one writes every time it hits the paper.

Is this normal for these cheap parts to be this fussy?  And does someone replace the feathery part with something that is not all plastic?  Aluminum or something else?

I like how the newer nib writes, does a replacement steel nib or the one of the fancy gold ones write even better or ??


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## BRobbins629 (Nov 7, 2010)

Even the best nibs on the best pens sometimes need a tuning.  There are a handful of folks really good at this but in the meantime, some reading in the library will give you some useful information.  See this link:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3828


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## Chthulhu (Nov 7, 2010)

The recommendation with *any* new fountain pen is to flush the nib, feed, and filling mechanism with cool water containing a drop of dishwashing liquid per cup of water, or a 10% solution of household ammonia and cool water. Even with the best fountain pens, there is often some residual oil and such remaining from the manufacturing process, and kit pen parts are no different. Many of us use an ear syringe, readily available at drug stores, and fit its tip over the cartridge/converter nipple, to flush somewhat forcefully.

Afterward, let the pen rest uncapped overnight, nib down in a glass with a wad of paper toweling in the bottom to wick out any remaining water. You *can* stick a cartridge on right away if you like, and don't mind writing with progressively darker color as the ink displaces the water in the feed. 

A decent pen should start without being shaken down, or the cartridge squeezed (they will eventually crack from that), but some newer pens' feed systems take awhile to wick ink all the way to the nib. Patience is important. 

If you replace the cartridge with a converter, you'll lose a wee bit of ink capacity, but since filling is generally done by submerging the nib in a bottle of ink, the feed is fully primed as you fill the converter, and the pen will usually start writing immediately. If it doesn't, then there is something amiss with the nib and/or feed.


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## IPD_Mrs (Nov 7, 2010)

I personally use an upgraded nib which I had filed to my own writing characteristics and desires. Not everyone changes the nib by having it filed, not everyone even changes out the kit nibs for upgrades (although we generally do because we like the way the write better.) Regardless of whether or not you make those types of changes as Bruce said, even an expensive upgrade may need a tuning here or there - the nice thing is that when they do need tuned and you get that done, they are simply delightful to write with.

Linda


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## arw01 (Nov 8, 2010)

At what point in a pen's price progression does the nib holder that is all plastic, upgrade to  a metal material?


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## monophoto (Nov 8, 2010)

arw01 said:


> At what point in a pen's price progression does the nib holder that is all plastic, upgrade to  a metal material?




My Montblanc FP costs far more than any kit - and it is mostly plastic.

It also leaks like a sieve and cost 5X the cost of an FP kit to send it to the factory for repairs, something that I found I was having to do every 18-24 months.  

Buying a kit and turning my own was a significant cost avoidance for me.


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## ldb2000 (Nov 8, 2010)

arw01 said:


> At what point in a pen's price progression does the nib holder that is all plastic, upgrade to a metal material?


 
In kit pens metal sections start at the Jr's and almost all are metal from that price point up .
Actually most FP users prefer plastic or better yet Ebonite sections and won't buy a pen with a metal section . I prefer a light weight , well balanced pen and metal sections throw off the balance to me . Even when I make a metal bodied pen I use a PR or Ebonite section .


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## jskeen (Nov 8, 2010)

Good info so far, that and the link to the library should take care of most of your questions.  My experience is that with nibs, you tend to get what you pay for IN THE LONG RUN.  Meaning, cheap nibs in less expensive kits have a higher percentage of kits with nibs that don't work well out of the box.  The more you pay per kit, the fewer problem you should find, but some will probably still sneak in there.  

For the most part, I don't find much difference between the bottom of the barrel nibs, the more midline parts, or the ones in the "high end kits" once you get it working.  Some people like the long straight sections on the jr and classic size pens, some like the flared or stepped larger sections with the 6mm nibs in the full size kits.  But overall, once you get them tuned and working, they all write about the same.  That much is pretty well known, and short a few minor variations, not very controversial.  

Now, for the opinion part.  As for the upgrade nibs, for the most part the quality control is tighter, meaning that the tines are checked more closely to ensure that the iridium beads are aligned, so that it doesn't feel "scratchy" because you have an exposed edge dragging on the paper.  It is also much less likely that there will be trash caught in the ink channel or roughness on the underside to mess up the capillary flow of ink to the tip.  But again, once you get it installed, adjusted and working right, you won't feel a huge difference vs a well adjusted and polished kit nib.  A steel nib is pretty much a steel nib, regardless of who made it or who's name is on it, once it is tuned.  As for the expensive solid gold nibs, my somewhat more limited experience is that for $75 or more you should not find one with those type of problems out of the box.  However, a stock gold nib is again, not going to feel much different than a well adjusted and polished steel nib.  The big advantage of gold nibs is that they can be adjusted by a competent nibmeister to "flex" or open and close slightly depending on the pressure, making the line on the paper widen and narrow as you write.  Some people can use this feature to create written art that is often quite amazing.  Others like me just produce illegible scratchings that are wider in some spots and narrower in others.  (shrug)  

But from a sales perspective as a penmaker, if you can adjust a nib well enough to get it to work correctly, most customers won't care what it says on the nib.  However, the small percentage of customers that buy fountain pens consistently often will not even look at a pen with a kit nib on it, regardless of how carefully it was adjusted, and how great it writes.  They just don't want a pen with a kit nib on it.  So, I try to have plenty of upgrade steel nibs onhand, so that don't cost me a sale.  For the rare (for me anyway) customer that is willing to pay the extra $$$ for a solid gold nib, most of them usually already have a relationship with someone that knows how they want their pens to write, and will customize it to their tastes.  I've only had a couple of people who wanted one and either wanted to leave it stock or asked me to have it modified for them.  

Of Course, YMMV  so have fun.


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## arw01 (Nov 11, 2010)

ldb2000 said:


> arw01 said:
> 
> 
> > At what point in a pen's price progression does the nib holder that is all plastic, upgrade to a metal material?
> ...



Just so I understand, the top photo here shows the plastic part I am taking about that brings the ink from the cartridge to the nib.  I'm talking about the feathered edge part, not the rounded piece, but they are all one part in these cheaper pens


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## ldb2000 (Nov 11, 2010)

arw01 said:


> ldb2000 said:
> 
> 
> > arw01 said:
> ...


 
What you are showing there is the nib , feed and holder (from a Baron/clone) which screws into the (grip) section . The feathered part you are referring to is the Feed which transfers the ink from the cartridge to the nib . These are always made of plastic on kit pens as is the holder . On better quality Manufactured Fountain pens the feed is made from Ebonite as is the holder which is usually part of the (grip) section . The nib and feed are simply pressed into the holder/section and are almost always removable for cleaning and nib replacement . No pens that I know of use a metal feed or holder but most of the better kits do use a metal (grip) section which the plastic feed and holder screw into .
For a better understanding of how feeds work try this link http://www.richardspens.com/ref/feeds.htm and for a very good reference of how Fountain pens in general are made and how the different parts work checkout the other reference sections on Richards site http://www.richardspens.com/refp.htm


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## arw01 (Nov 11, 2010)

Thank you Butch, that perfectly answered the question!


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