# Sand between CA coats, or sand once at the end?



## TheAcadian (Feb 22, 2017)

The way I've been doing it is to add 2 layers of thin CA, then run through my micromesh pads lightly once. Then I add a medium CA coat, run through the pads again, then another coat, pads, and so on, until I'm happy with the finish. 

Question: Do I need to be sanding with the micromesh in between each coat application? Or can I add my 3-4 coats and then wet sand with the mm?


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## edstreet (Feb 22, 2017)

You can and will fubar the blank if you sand between 'coats'.

https://www.claypenblanks.com/what-is-polymer-clay/ca-finishing-101.html

https://www.claypenblanks.com/what-is-polymer-clay/sanding-101.html


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## Charlie_W (Feb 22, 2017)

Hi Chris,   I only sand after all coats are applied. Sand once. Also, less chance of sanding thru the CA.

Same with drywall spackle.....apply all coats and sand once. I know it has nothing to do with CA but the principle is the same.


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## jttheclockman (Feb 22, 2017)

Hello Chris

A lot depends on how well you have applied the CA. First you do not want to MM between coats but that does not mean no sanding. You will not ruin the blank if you sand between coats. I do it all the time. What I will do is use about 3 or 4coats of thin CA and then 4 coats of med. This is not etched in stone because it depends how much is being added each time and there is no way to regulate this. After about 3 coats thin I will look at the blank and if there are any ripples or high spots I will sand with 400 grit  paper. to knock those back till there is no shiny spots on the blank. I do this by wrapping the sandpaper around a small square block of wood. I do this to not put too much pressure with my fingers on one particular area. It helps level the entire blank evenly.

I then wipe down with a soft paper towel and check dimensions with a caliper. This lets me know how close to final measurements I am. I then add more layers of med CA now until I am confident I am close. I once again sand with 400 grit lightly using the same method. If I am a little above what will be needed I now go through my wet dry paper and then with the MM. Stopping to check with calipers after a few sanding grits. 

Then polish. This all works for me and every one has their own methods and you will develop your own as you go. The going through the MM pads is too much extra work so you need to modify some. Good luck.


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## TheAcadian (Feb 22, 2017)

Guys, this is fantastic information. Thanks! Making the pens was taking so long, and it was because I was micromesh sanding between each coat. I'm going to try just adding each coat of CA, leveling, then polishing.


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## edstreet (Feb 22, 2017)

Easier to put thicker amounts on from a good label and save yourself tons of work.  Make sure it's flexible tho.


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## Bikerdad (Feb 23, 2017)

TheAcadian said:


> Guys, this is fantastic information. Thanks! Making the pens was taking so long, and it was because I was micromesh sanding between each coat. I'm going to try just adding each coat of CA, leveling, then polishing.



You don't need to level between each coat, unless for some reason you booger things up.  One example of boogering would be finding out the CA has *not* cured by touching it and shifting the CA a lot.

If/when you DO level it prior to putting on additional coats, make sure that you clean the blank completely after.


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