# Finishing Wenge



## kenlholley (Dec 15, 2013)

I found some Wenge with an outstanding grain pattern. I turned the blank down to size and sanded it to the size I wanted. That's when my problem started.  I normally finish wit 15 - 20 coats of thin CA/Blo.  I have not had an problems with this finish in a long time, then I haven't done Wenge in a long time.  Even after all the ca coats, when I sanded with micro mesh I ended with white dots where the sanded ca filled little "pits".  I have had the hardest time getting rid of those white dits.  

How do you guys finish wenge?  Any ideas or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## randyrls (Dec 15, 2013)

Ken;  the pits are grain pores that filled with sanding dust during the sanding.  When finished sanding, wipe down the barrel with Denatured Alcohol or Acetone.  You can also use high pressure air to blow the pores clean.  A brush with a brass or plastic bristles will also work.  There are several ways to fix this problem.


----------



## mmayo (Dec 19, 2013)

It may not be as smooth or glossy as CA, but Doctor's Workshop walnut oil and pen Polish makes a pretty pen to me and never shows the sanding grit you describe.   With ebony, wenge and several other dark woods it looks and feels wonderful to me.


----------



## reiddog1 (Dec 19, 2013)

A couple of coats with thin CA works well for me.  The thin seems to fill the grain a lot better than medium CA.  Hope this helps.

Dave


----------



## raar25 (Dec 20, 2013)

I have been using several coats of sanding sealer first on wenge (at least 3).  Once the grain is really filled there is no where for the white dust to deposit.


----------



## yorkie (Dec 20, 2013)

Pour on thin ca and spin the lathe at high speed while holding 120 grit sandpaper against it.  The sawdust mixes with the CA and fills all the holes.  It will spit on your arm.


----------



## kovalcik (Dec 20, 2013)

I wet sand with BLO (320 grit). Same idea as the thin CA, but it comes off your arm easier. :biggrin:

It will color the wood a little where the CA will be clear.


----------



## Jim Burr (Dec 20, 2013)

randyrls said:


> Ken;  the pits are grain pores that filled with sanding dust during the sanding.  When finished sanding, wipe down the barrel with Denatured Alcohol or Acetone.  You can also use high pressure air to blow the pores clean.  A brush with a brass or plastic bristles will also work.  There are several ways to fix this problem.


 
Yup ^. I like the open grain of wenge and paduk...not all do. Hook up the nozzle to your compressor and blow those grooves out! Tooth brush works if you're without a high pressure source. Very tactile wood that is enjoyed by many!


----------



## DJ1075 (Mar 6, 2019)

I find denatured alcohol works great, but can cause premature discoloration in certain woods like purpleheart.


----------



## Chasboy1 (Mar 10, 2019)

I guess we have mind readers in this group!  Not a pen, but knife scales for my wife’s favorite kitchen knife. I have Wenge blanks cut out. She’s fine with washing it by hand, so I don’t have to worry about ‘dishwasher safe’, but I was wondering if I could finish the handle with CA. Should I use thin only and build it up or can I prime with thin and finish with thick?


----------



## Charlie_W (Mar 10, 2019)

Chasboy1 said:


> I guess we have mind readers in this group!  Not a pen, but knife scales for my wife’s favorite kitchen knife. I have Wenge blanks cut out. She’s fine with washing it by hand, so I don’t have to worry about ‘dishwasher safe’, but I was wondering if I could finish the handle with CA. Should I use thin only and build it up or can I prime with thin and finish with thick?



For the kitchen knife, I would do a mineral oil/beeswax finish. When it needs a touch up, it is quick & simple. 
I believe the CA would lead to problems with moisture under the CA and a tough job refinishing.


----------



## elyk864 (Mar 11, 2019)

Here is an example of the CA finish that I get on Wenge wood.

Tools: 
Thin CA (2 coats first)
Thick CA (3-4 coats)
Thin Foam pads that I cut (link below)
400 grit
600 grit
Plastic Polish
De-natured Alchohol
Activator

I'll use a 150 grit for any shaping I need to do, then I move to 200ish from side to side turning the lathe by hand. I'll then turn the lathe on and sand with 400. Then follow with de-natured alchohol.

I use about a pea sized bit of CA when applying and I turn the lathe by hand for this. The foam pads allow for a uniform application of the CA. After each coat I will spritz it with activator but from about 2-3 feet away so that it doesn't cure to fast and casuse bubbles. Using this method it will dry in about 15-30 seconds then you can move onto the next coat.

For sanding I wet sand everything. I use the 400 to knock down any high points or pits in the CA to get a nice smooth finish. I'll then use the 600, then right to the plastic polish and it comes out cyrstal clear.

Link for foam https://www.walmart.com/ip/Foam-Sheets-4-5X6In-100-Pc-Vp/55848911


----------

