# Here's a simple CA finish



## richstick1 (Sep 27, 2007)

I know that WAY too much attention has been paid to the CA finish process - there are 8 billion different ways to go at it.  Well, I've arrived at a process that works for me, and is very simple.  I'm going to post it in the hopes that it helps someone out there.  Bear in mind I'm pretty much a noob turner and penmaker, so if I can make this work, anyone should be able to.

1) Turn blank(s) - I finish turn with a skew, then start sanding at 150 grit, 220 grit, then 320 grit.  I don't care how smooth the skew finish is, I start at 150 grit.  I could start at 220, but I don't. Sand lengthwise between each grit, and clear excess sawdust after each grit.

2) Sand bare wood blanks from 1500MM to at least 4000MM - I have done pens at 4000MM and pens up to 12000MM - see no difference in final product.  Make sure you stop the lathe and sand lengthwise at least every 2-3 grades of MM, also clear excess sawdust (which you can't even see at this point).  

3) wipe blank down with mineral spirits - especially with oily woods!!!!!  Allow plenty of time for spirits to dissipate (if you can smell it, it's still there...  I actually tend to apply it at night, let it dry overnight, and start applying CA in the morning before I go to work.

4) With folded paper towel, apply 8-10 drops thin CA and apply to blank with lathe at 500rpm.  The key here is to smooth the CA across the blank - if you can do it in one pass, great.  If it takes you 2-3 passes to achieve a uniform, smooth finish, fine. If it takes 4-5 passes, great.  Apply 8-10 more drops of thin CA and apply to other blank (if doing a 2 blank pen)

4a) remove glued paper towel from you fingers (DAMHIKT)...  Actually, as long as you pay attention to how you grab the paper towel, this won't happen...

5) Repeat step 4.  Don't repeat step 4A

6) Repeat step 4 with medium CA glue - I apply a total of 3 coats of medium.  When I run out of medium, I'll be trying it with thick.

7) The only time I sand in between coats is if I get a ridge in the previous coat - then I knock it down with 320, wipe CA dust off, and keep going.   When I get done applying the CA, sometimes I have a matte finish, sometimes I have a glossy finish already - it really doesn't matter either way.

8)Now, you have two options:
  a) MM - 1500 - 12000, again stop the lathe every 2-3 grits and sand lengthwise, also clear CA dust.
  b)  MM 1500 - 4000, sanding lengthwise and clearing CA dust.  Then, apply polishing compound (I use the Turtle Wax, comes in a round tub).  Polish, clean excess polish off, then apply Brasso (stinks, but works great)

Either one of these 2 final methods works great, can't tell the difference in final shine between them.

One more tip - make sure the previous coat of CA is dry before you go on to the next.  I actually allow the medium CA coats to dry for 30 minutes or so between coats.  Bear in mind, I'm a hobbyist, not interested in speed of finish.  

Anyways - I'm not claiming this is the perfect method, but I found it to be very easy to do, not overly time consuming, and I can achieve the same super high gloss I see on the photo pages (now, I need to post a photo or two 

I hope this helps at least one person out there - the CA finish isn't bad at all, give it a shot!


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## rherrell (Sep 27, 2007)

Why would you start with 150 no matter how smooth the skew finish is? This seems counter productive to me. I spent alot of time learning how to use a skew and to me one of the benefits is less sanding. I very rarely start below 400.


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## pmpartain (Sep 27, 2007)

That's what I've been doing.  I use sandpaper up to 2000 grit and then buff with Brasso.  Basically prep the bare wood however you like to, get a heavy build of CA.  I don't worry about getting it smooth.  I put on 3 to 4 heavy coats.  The big decision is deciding how low to go on the sandpaper to smooth it out.  Sometimes I start with 600 grit.  Sometimes 400.  Go all the way to 2000 grit and then buff with Brasso.  Don't worry about sanding between coats.  Basically just like you said.  I get a perfectly smooth finish and extremely high gloss.  Just like an acrylic blank.  Past few days I've tried lacquer dipping.  That's a great finish as well.


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## Ligget (Sep 27, 2007)

8 billion and 1 now! [)]


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## IPD_Mrs (Sep 27, 2007)

Mark you lost count... 7,999,996,354 [)][)]


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## Texatdurango (Sep 27, 2007)

> _Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking_
> <br />Mark you lost count... 7,999,996,354 [)][)]



ACTUALLY... it's only 7,999,996,352

Process 3,245,673,415 was deemed to be identical to process 2,426,742,984 so therfore removed as a viable process.

This processe bares a striking resemblence to 5,364,869,136 if you ask me!  But who's counting?[]


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## ed4copies (Sep 27, 2007)

I been workin' on process 0000000002, I'll let you know when I get to the next one!!![][][][][][]


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## jedgerton (Sep 27, 2007)

One note, to avoid step 4a, use a piece of sandpaper between the paper towel and your fingers.  I always have one or more pieces of sandpaper that need to be thrown away and this makes good use of them.

John


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## gerryr (Sep 27, 2007)

I would say you're using WAY too much thin CA.  I do both barrels with about 4-5 drops.


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## richstick1 (Sep 27, 2007)

wow.  Ok, nevermind...[][]


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## leehljp (Sep 28, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Richstick_
> <br />wow.  Ok, nevermind...[][]



Rich,

Keep it up! If it works for you, keep going. Yes, that might be a little much CA for many people,  but not for you. One of the problems that many people run into is the result of using too little and getting blotching. And the problem with that is that it will be enough for some woods and too little for others that soak up the CA. For this reason, I would recommend doing it like you said to someone just starting out. I "usually" will err on the side of a tad too much than too little.

A couple of weeks ago, I helped a friend in another country that started turning pens back in the summer - and told him that he was using too little. He was getting blotching and thought it was the CA. It was using too little in combination of lack of experience. With experience, the CA amount can decrease a little. What you described in CA amount is exactly what my friend needed to do as a beginner.


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## jeffj13 (Sep 28, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Richstick_
> <br />
> 7) The only time I sand in between coats is if I get a ridge in the previous coat - then I knock it down with 320, wipe CA dust off, and keep going.



I finish with lacquer, not CA, but would like to give CA a try. I have one question. You sand the wood to 4000 MM, but when sanding between coats you only sand to 320.  Won't you "capture" the sanding marks between coats of CA or, like lacquer, does one coat meld into the previous coat?

jeff


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## richstick1 (Sep 28, 2007)

Thanks Hank - I posted that because I was disappointed to see people critiquing my technique when I merely posted it in the hopes of helping out a fellow noob to the CA finish.  I have thick skin, but it just irritated me. Comments and suggestions are fine, but why critique and cloud the issue for someone reading this to hopefully get a little help.  I have no problems with my finish - they are turning out awesome.  I'm happy and confident with it.  If I use a little more thin than method 6,233,543,346, so be it [] I like the depth that the 2thin/3medium gives me.  That depth of finish shows off any curl/eyes/etc better than a thin finish.  I'd go into the physics of it, but I don't feel like it [] I begin sanding at 150 after the skew because that's how I was taught by a turner in my AAW club that sells 10" salad bowls for $350 out of his private gallery - 25 year turner - he "sort of" knows what he's doing.   I just think it's funny that you post something, and someone has to come slam it right away...  BTW - thanks for your tips you've posted on turning with a dead center - I'm going to be trying that one for sure!!

Jeff - the CA does act like lacquer, or a casting resin, or what have you.  I understand with lacquer the coats actually meld together, with CA I don't think that happens - but the sanding marks are filled in and don't show at all.


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## Texatdurango (Sep 28, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Richstick_
> <br />...I begin sanding at 150 after the skew because that's how I was taught by a turner in my AAW club that sells 10" salad bowls for $350 out of his private gallery - 25 year turner - he "sort of" knows what he's doing.   I just think it's funny that you post something, and someone has to come slam it right away...  BTW - thanks for your tips you've posted on turning with a dead center - I'm going to be trying that one for sure!!


Richstick,

I wouldn't get too upset over it, you just posted something that several folks saw minor problems with or had seen dozens of times before.  And as much as you are trying to open the eyes of others and help... some are trying to do the same with you!  No one is picking on you!

I do however need to disagree with part of your comment above however.  You backed up your decision to start sanding with 150 grit with the merits of a well seasoned veteran that has bowls in galleries.  To that I say... "So what?", that means absolutely nothing!  If that 25 year veteran turner relies on using 150 grit to smooth up wood that he turned with a skew... then perhaps he needs to learn how to use a skew or sharpen the one he's got!  Time doing a repetative task is often meaningless and a poor measure for success as one can repeat the same mistakes over and over for a lifetime.

I've been turning for less than a year (and I'm NOT comparing my skills to the 25 year turner) but I wouldn't dream of using 150 grit after using my skew, I don't even think I have any 150 grit paper near my lathe anymore.  Of course, there was a period when I was using my skew as a "scraper"... then sanding with 150 wouldn't have been so bad![]

Relax and soak up as much as you can, there is a lot of knowledge around here.

Just my opinion, not meant to get you upset.

George


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## rherrell (Sep 30, 2007)

Slam? I don't think so. I was just giving an opinion. That's what we do around here.


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## ahoiberg (Oct 1, 2007)

thanks for sharing what you've discovered richstick. and i say if you want to use 150, use 150. if you don't, then don't. if you feel it makes the end product better, then it probably does. and don't sweat people chiming in on your post like this, it happens EVERY time a different CA finish is posted.


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## richstick1 (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks - I'm chalking it up to "whatever" factor [] I realize everyone has their opinion - and some are VERY willing to share it[]  Also, much is lost in translation across the keyboard - I have no doubt that people are well intentioned and trying to be helpfull.  And I appreciate it.  

I do want to go back and clarify one thing though - the bowl turner I mentioned - he doesn't work with a skew, he starts all his sanding on bowls at 150 or even coarser.  Sorry for the confusion.  The finish he gets off his bowl gouge (Irish/modified Ellsworth grind with a secondary bevel ground) is fine enough he could start at 220 or 320, but he doesn't.  I have applied his same reasoning to penturning.  Yes, I get a skew finish I could start with 320-400, but I don't - and I think I get a better overall finish out of the wood.  I don't know why, it's just my experience.  I think many people want to do as little sanding as possible, or want to be impressive with how fine a grit they can start with.  I look at sanding as part of the entire process, and I've found in MY process, to start a grit or two or three coarser than I would "need" to, I get a better finished product.  That's just how I roll, we all have our own little quirks, and everyone has their own little rituals they go through...

I'm done - no harm, no foul.  Good turning everyone []

PS - on my honor, I will never post about CA finish again!! []


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## Texatdurango (Oct 1, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Richstick_
> <br />... I think many people want to do as little sanding as possible, or want to be impressive with how fine a grit they can start with....


Ouch, looks like that might have been aimed at me.  I hope you didn't take my post wrong, I wasn't trying to "be impressive" about how fine a grit I could start with, I sand for one reason... to smooth the blank, period!  95% of my pen turning is done with my skew and to me, and with the smoothness I end up with starting with 150 is going backwards, that's why I mentioned it.  

You are right about much being lost in translation though.  Just because one mentions a "skew finish", it really doesn't mean that much.  At a recent club meeting a fellow turner recently was showing a candlestick he made and the finish had tiny grooves like an old 45rpm record.  He too used a skew!

I don't blame you for not posting anymore about your process.  I do a CA finish and do it differently than anyone... but I won't post my method because I don't want to go through this either! []


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## richstick1 (Oct 1, 2007)

Oh - sorry - that wasn't intended to be pointed at you!  It's something I've rapidly picked up on various internet message boards as well as at my AAW club meetings.  No offense intended []

so, what is your method???[]


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