# My process for acrylic and CA finishing



## CrashmanS (Nov 12, 2016)

As a car painter for a long time, I have access to a lot of different materials for removing and buffing defects from paint. When I started turning pens 10 years ago,  I used what I had to get a perfect flawless finish on my acrylic and Corian pens. This, as I've found out,  can be alot cheaper than the micromesh system currently out there.  It will also last alot longer.  
So here it is. 220 wet, to 600 wet, to 1500 wet. Then Polish with 3m microfinishing compound followed with 3m swirl remover. I buy my products in a quart size.  And while not cheap it will last forever. You can also buy it in smaller bottles in the normal auto places (auto zone,  advanced,  etc.) Wet sandpaper can be had at about any auto place as well,  but i get the good 3m wet and dry paper at my local NAPA store for a little bit of nothing per sheet. And it's 8.5 x 11 inch sheet. Not the little squares of the micro mesh pads. 
This is just my process that works for me. If you have a system in place you are happy with,  great. I finish my CA using the same system except I don't use the 220. I 600 to smooth,  1500 to remove the 600 scratches and then Polish with the 3m microfinishing compound. 


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## Sataro (Nov 12, 2016)

Considering your join date, I see you have been lurking in the background for the past year! So let me be the first to welcome you to IAP. There is a wealth of information here.

Nice tutorial with your first post. Would enjoy seeing some of your pens finished with this method. Will be looking forward to more posts from you...


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## CrashmanS (Nov 12, 2016)

I have always used this method. I didn't know about micromesh until I attended a class at woodcraft. I bought a package and wasn't pleased with the price and how long it lasted.  Plus I had all the supplies I needed at the shop. 

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## thewishman (Nov 12, 2016)

Sounds like a much quicker process. 

Woodcraft charges out the wazoo for Micromesh. Woodturningz has much better prices (1/3 of the WC price) on that stuff:
9-Piece Micro-mesh Finishing Set - WoodTurningz


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## Skie_M (Nov 13, 2016)

Yeah ... I get pretty much that same exact package from Hobby Lobby .... for 12 bucks (no delivery charge neither).  It's not the micromesh pad ... just micromesh sandpaper.


Of course, if you have the craft foam handy, you can just MAKE your own pads for a fraction of the cost ...


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## lorbay (Nov 13, 2016)

CrashmanS said:


> As a car painter for a long time, I have access to a lot of different materials for removing and buffing defects from paint. When I started turning pens 10 years ago,  I used what I had to get a perfect flawless finish on my acrylic and Corian pens. This, as I've found out,  can be alot cheaper than the micromesh system currently out there.  It will also last alot longer.
> So here it is. 220 wet, to 600 wet, to 1500 wet. Then Polish with 3m microfinishing compound followed with 3m swirl remover. I buy my products in a quart size.  And while not cheap it will last forever. You can also buy it in smaller bottles in the normal auto places (auto zone,  advanced,  etc.) Wet sandpaper can be had at about any auto place as well,  but i get the good 3m wet and dry paper at my local NAPA store for a little bit of nothing per sheet. And it's 8.5 x 11 inch sheet. Not the little squares of the micro mesh pads.
> This is just my process that works for me. If you have a system in place you are happy with,  great. I finish my CA using the same system except I don't use the 220. I 600 to smooth,  1500 to remove the 600 scratches and then Polish with the 3m microfinishing compound.
> 
> ...


I presume you do the last part in RED wet.??
Lin.


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## CrashmanS (Nov 13, 2016)

Yes. I forgot that part! 

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## Joey-Nieves (Nov 13, 2016)

CrashmanS said:


> As a car painter for a long time, I have access to a lot of different materials for removing and buffing defects from paint. When I started turning pens 10 years ago,  I used what I had to get a perfect flawless finish on my acrylic and Corian pens. This, as I've found out,  can be alot cheaper than the micromesh system currently out there.  It will also last alot longer.
> So here it is. 220 wet, to 600 wet, to 1500 wet. Then Polish with 3m microfinishing compound followed with 3m swirl remover. I buy my products in a quart size.  And while not cheap it will last forever. You can also buy it in smaller bottles in the normal auto places (auto zone,  advanced,  etc.) Wet sandpaper can be had at about any auto place as well,  but i get the good 3m wet and dry paper at my local NAPA store for a little bit of nothing per sheet. And it's 8.5 x 11 inch sheet. Not the little squares of the micro mesh pads.
> This is just my process that works for me. If you have a system in place you are happy with,  great. I finish my CA using the same system except I don't use the 220. I 600 to smooth,  1500 to remove the 600 scratches and then Polish with the 3m microfinishing compound.
> 
> ...



I do a similar process, I found that wrapping the sand paper around an old micro pad gives you a better grip and a more steady surface for applying steady pressure.  I do grits starting at 260, 320, 600, 1000, and the 3m 3000 and 5000 micro spongy thing. my final buffing is done with a damp cloth with blue magic or mother's.

I apply a lot of coats of CA so i can have material to cut.  I also apply the last 5 coats an not use accelerator, just let it set on the lathes a few minutes. Also you get better results if you let it set overnight before sanding.


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## CrashmanS (Nov 13, 2016)

Joey-Nieves said:


> CrashmanS said:
> 
> 
> > As a car painter for a long time, I have access to a lot of different materials for removing and buffing defects from paint. When I started turning pens 10 years ago,  I used what I had to get a perfect flawless finish on my acrylic and Corian pens. This, as I've found out,  can be alot cheaper than the micromesh system currently out there.  It will also last alot longer.
> ...


I find if you fold the paper over on itself,  it will not slip because the grit is grabbing itself when you apply pressure. 

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## Joey-Nieves (Nov 13, 2016)

I do a similar process, I found that wrapping the sand paper around an old micro pad gives you a better grip and a more steady surface for applying steady pressure.  I do grits starting at 260, 320, 600, 1000, and the 3m 3000 and 5000 micro spongy thing. my final buffing is done with a damp cloth with blue magic or mother's.

I apply a lot of coats of CA so i can have material to cut.  I also apply the last 5 coats an not use accelerator, just let it set on the lathes a few minutes. Also you get better results if you let it set overnight before sanding.[/quote]
I find if you fold the paper over on itself,  it will not slip because the grit is grabbing itself when you apply pressure. 

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Well yes and no, I cut the paper in in half on the long side(Sand paper is About 9x11) So I end up with a 4.5 by eleven strip I cut that in strips of about equal width and wrap them around the pad.

This is were I get creative, I fold the paper square on each side of the pad so instead of one fold you end up with 2 folds on each side.  Sounds like a lot of trouble but it really isn't.  

About the sand Paper, the lower the grit the faster they get consumed, so the 260 will go bad faster then the 360.  the rest last pretty long, since you will have 3 sides, both faces plus the the over lap, you can polish o lot of pens. Yesterday I did 25 pens with out having to change the paper. the micro sponge will last 3 or for time more than the paper.

Tip. If you pay close attention and with practice you can actually feel the paper cutting, and know when to replace. 

Hope this helps

P.S.  Lots of water, I put a towel on my lathe and a plastic tray so it won't get wet, also I always clean the bed and put wood wax so water just roles off.


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## howsitwork (Nov 17, 2016)

I try to go through the grits 120-180-240-320 etc upto 600 (on acrylic) then switch to 3000, to 12000 micromesh. Got it in sheets rather than the pads. But as of 600 I sand wet. With the 8000 and 12000 I wondered if it was cutting so tried it on back of a finger nail and yes it was!

Never heard of swirl remover! Must look that one up. 

Thanks Ian


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## CrashmanS (Nov 17, 2016)

howsitwork said:


> I try to go through the grits 120-180-240-320 etc upto 600 (on acrylic) then switch to 3000, to 12000 micromesh. Got it in sheets rather than the pads. But as of 600 I sand wet. With the 8000 and 12000 I wondered if it was cutting so tried it on back of a finger nail and yes it was!
> 
> Never heard of swirl remover! Must look that one up.
> 
> Thanks Ian


Swirl remover is used by me to remove rubbing compound swirls from fresh paint. Very fine compound. As a last step. 

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