# cleaning metal lathe parts of oil



## chris99210 (Jan 6, 2011)

Santa was good to me this year and I received a metal lathe - oh boy!  The lathe is clean but many of the parts are in plastic bags and they are covered in oil; that includes the drive and live centers.  What's the best solvent to use to clean the oil and the best method?  Coffee can and submerge them?  Does the live center need oil for its bearings or can I submerge it to clean it as well without damaging it?

Thanks,
Chris


----------



## Aerotech (Jan 6, 2011)

i'm no professional, but the oil is used as a preservative to prevent oxidation and corrosion.  i would simply wipe them down with a clean dry rag rather then submerge in a dry cleaning solvent.  just my 2 cents


----------



## jeff (Jan 6, 2011)

I'd just wipe everything as dry as you can with paper towels or shop rags, then spray on a little degreaser like Simple Green or a citrus-based formula and wipe off again.


----------



## Russell Eaton (Jan 6, 2011)

WD40.   that is what I used on mine. Works like a champ. Spray on and wipe off.


----------



## randyrls (Jan 6, 2011)

I agree with Jeff.  Get a gallon of WD40, pour some in a can, use a stiff bristle brush to clean the parts.  Use plenty of ventilation or outside (brrr).

Every week or every time you stop using the lathe, wipe down the exposed metal surfaces with an oil soaked rag.  Keep the rag in an empty quart paint can.


----------



## KenV (Jan 6, 2011)

the primary material in WD-40 is oderless mineral spirits also known as stoddard solvent (drycleaning) or odorless kerosene.   Works well and costs about 1/2 the price.  

Also works well for "wet sanding" of varnishes, lacquer, or CA finishes.

Squirt bottle or squeese bottles work well.


----------



## BKelley (Jan 6, 2011)

Depending on the type of oil that is on the lathe.  Is it that thick heavy red grease that Grizzly, Harbor Freight and other lathes of this type?  If it is the red grease, use kerosene and brush.  If it is just light weight oil, you can just wipe everything down with blue shop towels.  I would not surmerge the live center, just wipe it down good.
After removing grease and/or oil use WD-40 very generously on machine and keep it
covered while not is use.  You can use denim to cover it.  My wife made me a cover for my lathe out of denim and it keeps shop dust ect away from  the lathe.  Lots of luck,
you are in for a whale of a good time with the new toy.

Ben


----------



## DurocShark (Jan 7, 2011)

Wipe down with a dry towel except for the heavy waxy greasy stuff. I use brake cleaner for those if there's no paint. If there's paint, scrape off as much as possible, then dampen a towel with WD-40 to get the rest.


----------



## turner.curtis (Jan 7, 2011)

Not sure what they used for rust protection on the lathe but what I have found to be the best thing to remove cosmoline is a cheap steamer from Bed Bath and Way beyond... Just steam the surface to get the oil to "melt" and wipe it down. I personally stay far far away from using WD-40 for anything but cleaning or running some of my small engines on to "season" them and clean the carburetors. The reason I do not use it for oiling anything is that due to some of the other chemicals in it can be hygroscopic, remember its main creation was as a water displacer. Being a smallbore shooter, I use a product called FP-10 CLP for oiling almost everything anymore.


----------



## Chthulhu (Jan 7, 2011)

I'll add my vote to the "just wipe it off" opinion, but I don't recommend WD-40 for general lubrication. As turner.curtis points out, it can be hygroscopic. Starrett M-1 or any light mineral oil would be better, and the manual for my LMS metal lathe recommends a low-viscosity motor oil, which would also be good.


----------



## snyiper (Jan 7, 2011)

WD 40 can also end up gummy after a while I would clean grease with kerosine and recoat with light oil like eds red or trans fluid.


----------



## chris99210 (Jan 7, 2011)

Thanks for the great advice, guys.  Fortunately there's no red grease on the lathe itself, just the small parts that I need to assemble onto it are covered in light oil.  Sounds like wiping with a dry rag and using a small amount of degreaser/WD 40 is the consensus.  I'll be sure to keep it lubricated and protected from rust when not in use (it's a Micro Mark so I'm really excited to use it).

Chris


----------



## Sylvanite (Jan 7, 2011)

turner.curtis said:


> Not sure what they used for rust protection on the lathe


There are three different oils you need to maintain an engine (metal) lathe.  Each one has different properties for different purposes.
*Way Oil* - Oil for the ways and leadscrew needs to protect against corrosion and has to stay put under high pressure.  The industry starndard oil for lathe ways is Mobil Vactra #2.
*Spindle Oil* - Oil for the headstock and tailstock spindles, crossslides, and other moving surfaces needs to flow well and have superior lubricity.  Again, the spindle oil against which all others are measured is Mobil Velocite #6.
*Gear Oil* - If your lathe has gears in an oil bath, they need a good non-detergent ISO 68 (SAE 30) hydraulic oil that won't foam, prevents wear and bears contaminants away.  The standard here is Mobil DTE Heavy Medium.  Do NOT substitute 30W motor oil.
I was able to buy pint bottles of Vactra #2 and Velocite #6 at a reasonable price off eBay.  I couldn't find DTE Heavy Medium locally, so I bought a pail of an equivalent ISO 68 anti-wear hydraulic oil (same specs - different brand).  Now I have a lifetime supply.

Regards,
Eric


----------

