# Any tips out there on dying wood blanks?



## ossaguy (Sep 8, 2012)

I looked thru the library,but didn't find anything about dying wood,so I thought I'd ask you all for any how-to's.

I have about 4 boring blanks I'd like to use to experiment with dying them.I heard you can use food coloring? 

If that's true,do I soak,or just dip in it,and is so,how about drying? Do I do it after they are turned and ready to finish,or while still rough?

 Thanks for any feedback!!!

 Steve


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## alamocdc (Sep 9, 2012)

I can't help you with the food coloring thing. And it kinda depends on the amount of penetration you want. Some have had success with aniline dyes, but I'm not sure of the process. I have used Rit dye in a 50/50 mixture of DNA and water, and incorporated vacuum. I got pretty good penetration, but since I was introducing water back to the blank, I had to dry them before I could use. You can also send them off to stabilizers and have them dyed. This best penetration I have seen is actually what Curtis does in the blanks he stabilizes.


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## plantman (Sep 9, 2012)

Steve; To answer your question. Go to Craft Supplies USA (www.woodturnerscatalog.com) they have Aniline dyes that come in a powdered form you mix with hot water, and a Alcohol Coloring dye that comes pre mixed. I have not tried the Alcohol dye yet, but I have used the powdered dyes quite a bit. I mix them in old Mason jars and put lids on them and keep them for years. The penetration is quite good and it dries to the touch in 5 minuets. If you don't soak the blank and apply with a rag or brush you can better controll the color pepetration. It also allows the grain to come through. I usualy finish my blank to size before applying the dye, let dry, finish sanding to take down any fiber lifting, and then finish with CA. By changing the dye/water persentage you can lighten or darken your colors. You can also mix your colors or put one color over the other to get custom tints.  Jim S


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## ossaguy (Sep 9, 2012)

I think I might try the Alcohol dye,just cause it costs less.....I wish each color was not that much.Too bad they do not offer a small-sized variety pack for someone like me who just wants to use up some vanilla blanks.

I'll have to explore the CSUSA new website some more,it looks pretty good so far!

Thanks guys,
   Steve


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## alamocdc (Sep 9, 2012)

Steve, I didn't even think of Jim's method of turning to shape first. I was thinking full penetration dying. Sorry. If you are going to turn them to shape first, you can try a pack of Rit dye pretty cheaply and just use straight DNA so it dries very quickly. They make it in a wide variety of colors.


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## Wildman (Sep 9, 2012)

Has anyone tried Dr. Ph. Martins Bombay India Inks?

Dr. Ph. Martins Bombay Inks

General-purpose waterproof India ink that flows freely off pen tips, brushes, and airbrushes. Use for rubber stamping, lettering, and background washes. Holds a line without spreading. Dries lightfast and opaque. The black and white inks provide great covering power and are opaque while the other colors are more translucent/transparent. Adheres to almost all surfaces including paper, wood, plastic, vinyl, and board. Nonclogging and nontoxic. Colors Include yellow, red, magenta, green, blue, brown, violet, white, black, bright red, teal, and grass green. 

I have only used black and white; black can hide and highlight flaws in wood. White is translucent unless apply lot of coats. I did use lacquer as a top coat or final finish.

Buying small individual bottles, no-mixing definitely an alternative to various dyes especially for pens.  Once dry any film finish or CA top coat should work. 

Can also buy in small and large sets.  Many hobby, art supply stores like Hobby lobby carry Martin’s India Inks so shop around for best price or buy local if you can.

MSDS  for this brand states no health problems using this stuff I do wear plastic gloves so don't dye my hands. Stuff will wash off with soap and water.


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## jmbaker79 (Sep 9, 2012)

Don't do much dying but have experimented with food color. Technically I use food grade airbrush color from our cake business...don't tell anyone! Fancy expensive name for food color!  I just turn to shape and apply on a paper towel. Can make some nice gradients with this method. Have heard they will fade over time but have yet to experience this, perhaps I hasn't been long enough! Always let dry and give them a nice ca finish. Quick and easy! Have also soaked in dyes with little penetration, mostly in the grain lines. Just a thought!


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## glen r (Sep 9, 2012)

Coloring the turned blank with a Sharpie pen also works.  You have to let it dry for a day or so but the range of colors is quite good.


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## Jim Burr (Sep 9, 2012)

Aniline dyes work really good, I use them with DNA all the time, black first to pop the grain then the main color you like. I'm still convienced orange will work!!


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## KenV (Sep 9, 2012)

Tombo markers provide the rainow, but seal the wood first if you want sharp color separations.


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## Dustygoose (Sep 10, 2012)

I have used food colors a lot.   My daughter had me try the Neon colors as well.  I turn to size sand clean and use 1-2 drops on a shop towel ( kinda like blo)  let dry for a day then finish with CA.


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## mikespenturningz (Sep 11, 2012)

I have used the food coloring and it works very well. I use mineral spirits on a paper towel to cut it just a bit. If you check out my pen shop you will see several. I am going to use my stabilizing to do this now but that works just fine. Handcrafted Ink Pen Pencils Hand turned in USA by MikesPenTurningZ will get you there. You can just keep using mineral spirits to cut the color to be as little or as much as you want. Experiment you will like the results.


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## soundman (Sep 13, 2012)

If ya don't want to cough up for expensive dyes...remember anything that will stain will dye.

Do a bit of googling and perhaps a trip to the local library...there is heaps about on staining and dying fabrics and leather.......lots of this will translate to wood.

There is a hell of a lot  arround on colouring timber, I recon pens would be a great opportunity to try on a small scale.

cheap and effective options are closer than you might expect.

Start with that leaky pen refill.....snap or cut the tip off and blow the contents into a small container and start cutting it with a little bit of laquer thinner, turps (sorry mineral spirit) or metho (sorry DNA). some experimentation may be needed for the right solvent
That stuff stains like a .....
The colour of the pen is never what you think it is..and black refill will usually give a blue or purple stain.

If its a wood with a lot of tannins in it, you could try "liquid nightmare" ( vinegar and steel wool) gives a black result on high tannin woods.

Black current cordial concentrate, is suposed to be one of the hardest stains to remove in the wash.... might be worth a go for a purple.

Red wine is suposed to be a mongrel stain......of course you must not let the rest of the bottle go to waste.

If you live with a woman that is adventurous with the hair dye, rave a rummage in the bathroom cupboard....there is bound to be some out of date stuff or a bright coulor she simply was not game to use.


As has been said penetration may be variable......so where is your adventure.

cheers


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## TerryDowning (Sep 14, 2012)

Nice suggestions soundman.


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## ossaguy (Sep 14, 2012)

Thanks everone for all the tips,I'm going to have fun trying these new things!


Steve


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## plantman (Sep 14, 2012)

soundman said:


> If ya don't want to cough up for expensive dyes...remember anything that will stain will dye.
> 
> Do a bit of googling and perhaps a trip to the local library...there is heaps about on staining and dying fabrics and leather.......lots of this will translate to wood.
> 
> ...


 
"liquid mightmare" (vinegar and steel wool) has been used to ebonize oak for years. It will make Oak look like Ebony. When you fill the pores, apply finish, and polish, you can get a "japaned Black Finish" like a Steinway. By the way, don't stick your nose in the jar to see if it smells, and wear rubber gloves !!! Jim S


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## alamocdc (Sep 15, 2012)

I forgot about ammonia. The fumes will permanently change the color and appearance of many woods (like Oak) with a high tannin count. And I love the color it gives White Oak. You just have to remember to let it air out for a few days after you have tent fumigated it.


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## mjwilli (Sep 15, 2012)

I do not have much experience with Pens and just joined the group recently but I do have experience with Dyes on Wood.  I have used transtint and like the results.  The results are excellent.  I have matched antique Mahogany, golden oak and many other types.  It takes a bit of experimentation but so does turning a quality pen.  So play with scrap wood to perfect the color and then write down what you did to get it. Keep in mind if you use water based dyes you will have to sand again when it dries.   Here is a link to homestead where they sell it. 
For anyone interested I have a spreadsheet that has a bunch of conversions for liquid measures.  Pretty handy when mixing stuff.  


TransTint


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## plantman (Sep 16, 2012)

alamocdc said:


> I forgot about ammonia. The fumes will permanently change the color and appearance of many woods (like Oak) with a high tannin count. And I love the color it gives White Oak. You just have to remember to let it air out for a few days after you have tent fumigated it.


 
:wink::wink: Good thread Billy. For those not familiar with the fumed ammonia process, it was mostly used on quarter sawn oak to bring out the rays of the wood as well as the grain. When your piece was sanded and ready for finish it was inclosed in some sort of a tent as Billy noted. Ammonia was poured in a container and placed in the tent, and the tent sealed and left until the effect you wanted was obtained. This should be done in a well vented area. Inhailing ammonia fumes can kill you. The fumes will change the color of the wood to a golden oak and make the rays and grain pop. Do not apply the ammonia to the wood itself. A mix of ammonia and steel wool will make a black stain that you apply to the wood itself to darken it to a gray or ebony color. Do this outside or in a well vented area, and keep your stain in a well sealed container.
Jim S


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## ossaguy (Sep 16, 2012)

glen r said:


> Coloring the turned blank with a Sharpie pen also works. You have to let it dry for a day or so but the range of colors is quite good.


 
I tried this tip first today,and it worked great.I went to an art store and they had a Sharpie "Brush" pen in a pefect vibrant pink color.

I turned a curly maple blank to size,then colored it with that,and waited an hour ( impatient..I know ) then CA'd it.Looks super,all the curl & grain shows in the light.

Can't wait to try out the different colors,this opens a lot of doors.

Looks great on the PSI Duchess pen.

Thanks again,guys!

Steve


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