# Finishing Wooden Bottle Stoppers



## warreng8170 (Dec 12, 2011)

So it seems that I am selling stoppers at a rate of about 3-1 to the number of pens. I am going to be making lots more in the near future and I need help with finishing them. I am casting my own PR stopper blanks and those are no problem. I just use a 3-step buffing process. My problem is with the wooden ones. I normally use CA for my pen finishes and feel like I do a better than average job, however, I have VERY poor results with CA on stoppers. It bulids up in the grooves and then when I try to sand or buff, I end up buffing through on the ridges. If I do a very simple tapered design, I can pull it off, but that shape gets pretty boring real fast.

I remember seeing a post long ago where the finish literally looked like wet glass. I really want be able to acheive that. 

Anyone care to share your process?


----------



## kevrob (Dec 12, 2011)

The BEST bottle stopper finsih I have seen is Dave_M's, using Qualalacq lacquer. (http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57629) I have attempted to duplicate it, and while my results have not been as nice as his, they have been pretty darn good.


----------



## IPD_Mr (Dec 12, 2011)

We actually lacquer dip our bottle stoppers.  The key to this is to set up a jig to hold the bottle stopper and let it turn about 5-6 rpm per minute.  This way the lacquer does not settle to one side or the other.  The stopper will have a tremendous amount of depth in the finish if you use high gloss and buff it after a couple days of drying/curing.  The curing time may vary based on temperature, humidity and what type of wood you use.


----------



## Ted iin Michigan (Dec 12, 2011)

Yeah. I'm thinking Kevin & Mike have the right idea. I've used laquer and polyurethane and for my money, the lacquer wins hands down. Drying time is nil as is recoat, and lacquer lasts almost like poly.


----------



## dgerwin11 (Dec 12, 2011)

I have obtained a nice finish with Mylands 3 step also.


----------



## warreng8170 (Dec 12, 2011)

kevrob said:


> The BEST bottle stopper finsih I have seen is Dave_M's, using Qualalacq lacquer. (http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57629) I have attempted to duplicate it, and while my results have not been as nice as his, they have been pretty darn good.



Thanks Kevin, that is exactly the post I was referring to. I'll have to try it.


----------



## warreng8170 (Dec 12, 2011)

Ted iin Michigan said:


> Yeah. I'm thinking Kevin & Mike have the right idea. I've used laquer and polyurethane and for my money, the lacquer wins hands down. Drying time is nil as is recoat, and lacquer lasts almost like poly.



Ted, when you say drying time is Nil, can you elaborate? According to Mike, it's a couple days.


----------



## IPD_Mr (Dec 12, 2011)

Warren -  you can add your second coat in a matter of a few minutes to half an hour depending on how thick your coats.  When I talk about curing is when I want to give it a couple of days.  The harder the finish the better for buffing.  If it is still soft it can mess your finish up and you are back to square one.


----------



## monophoto (Dec 13, 2011)

I usually use gloss WOP.  Sometimes I will use a shellac sanding sealer under the WOP.  But 6-8 coats of WOP results in a very nice gloss.

I've also used waterborne poly - the stuff made for finishing floors - applied just like WOP with a bit of paper towel.  Tends to build a nice finish without the amber color shift.


----------



## SDB777 (Dec 13, 2011)

kevrob said:


> The BEST bottle stopper finsih I have seen is Dave_M's, using Qualalacq lacquer. (http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57629) I have attempted to duplicate it, and while my results have not been as nice as his, they have been pretty darn good.


 


Thanks for bring that link back into the light....I seemed to have missed it.




Scott (still looks wet) B


----------

