# Howard's Feed N Wax



## CSue

I've heard many people talking about BLO and such used to bring out the grain, "pop" the grain . . . EEE . . . and others. I've tried them. But I found this product really "pops" the grain and makes a tremendous difference in the finish of my pens. For the drier woods, I let it set longer than the 20 minutes directions say. 

Home Depot sells it. That is my first step after sanding. After 20 minutes or so, I wipe off all the excess with paper towel and finish . . . any kind of finish. I've even used CA over it, shellac, Hut Waxes. 

I'd really appreciate if some others of you could try this out and see what you think. 

It's made of Beeswax and Orange Oil.


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## alphageek

Ok...   Sounds intriguing, but I have to say Cathy that I'm personally less than thrilled about the ingredients listing.   Here is the MSDS: http://www.howardproducts.com/resources/msds/Feed_N_Wax.pdf

They have it marketed as you say with "Beeswax and orange oils"... but looking at the datasheet its at MOST 5% each of orange oils, bees wax, paraffin and carnuba.  And maybe as little as 1% of each of those.   That puts it at 80% to 96% petroleum distillates.   

I'm not saying not to try it, but I'm less than thrilled by the ingredients listed in their msds.


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## CSue

Frankly, Dean, I didn't look up the sheet you referenced before using this product.  But I did read the label!  And yes, I am aware of the fact that it contains petroleum distillates.  Many of the Friction polishes on the market also use petroleum distillate.  The "Caution" sections on both products say about the same thing.  

When I said "It's made of", that wasn't meant to imply those were the only ingredients.  I have tried beeswax and been unimpressed.  And there are other "Beeswax and Orange oil" products on the market for use with wood.  Those I've tried weren't "any big shucks".

All I intended to do with this post was to share the fact that, for whatever reason, this particular product does wonders "popping the grain" of most of the woods I've worked with.  It also can bring out the chatoyance of woods to a marked degree.  I know from my experimentation that it's not because of any one particular ingredient.  It is due to the combination of ingredients they bring together in this product alone that gives consistently remarkable results.

When I make a chocolate-peanut butter pie, I only put a tablespoon of peanut butter in the pudding.  But those served never pushed the plate away because it didn't have enough peanut butter.

To all penturners and others reading this, I, again, suggest trying this product if you've been interested in finding a consistent product for bringing out the grain and depth of a wood.  Simply follow product instructions on the bottle - including Caution remarks as you should with all products you use.

I am not a paid employee or representative of this product.  I am not saying anyone has to use this.  This is just a comment, an observation on a product I've found useful to enhance finished product when using many woods.  I thought this was the forum to share about this kind of thing.

Personally, I would be interested if someone here would try it and let me know your opinion of the product.


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## edstreet

I have a bottle of it, good stuff it is.  I use it as a dressing.


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## Kretzky

Does the beeswax (& I note note Alphageek also said carnuba wax in there) not prevent other finishes from 'sticking' to whatever you are coating? Just wondering
David


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## nava1uni

I have used this product for years.  I do furniture restoration and upholstery.  It makes older tired wood fresh and vibrant.  I leave it on for a while and then wipe it off.  I also use other finishes over it without any problems.  I haven't tried it on pens, but I will give it a try and let you know how I find it.
It is good to see you posting.  I am glad that you are back and feeling better.


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## CSue

Kretzky said:


> Does the beeswax (& I note note Alphageek also said carnuba wax in there) not prevent other finishes from 'sticking' to whatever you are coating? Just wondering
> David


 
No.  I've had no problem at all putting other finishes on top of it.  After it sets on the wood awhile and soaks in, I wipe off all the excess.  Then proceed with your regular finish.


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## monophoto

Richard Raffen used Howard's Feed'n Wax in his demos at Totally Turning 2011.  He mentioned that it is popular with turners in Australia.  I liked the way it looked on the bowls and platters he created in his demos - and it arguably smells much better than any other packaged finish out there.  It's easy to find  - Home Despot, and many hardware stores, carry it because it is most often used to perk up an older piece of furniture.  And it's very reasonably priced.

I used it for utilitarian things like coin cups, dishes and bowls that are not handled a lot and that are not going to be used with food.  It leaves a soft matte finish and does make the grain look nice.  

I haven't tried using it as a 'base coat' with some other finish on top.  I would think that would be almost essential with pens because of the constant handling factor.


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## alphageek

Cathy,

First off, let me apologize if you thought my comments about the material were in what you were saying about it.   I thought I had phrased it that I was unhappy with their marketing of the product.

My unhappiness is that its called "Feed and Wax" and almost nothing on their pages talks about the makeup at all (maybe it does on the label, but I havn't seen the back of the label).  Their web site states: "_Feed-N-Wax is a special blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil_."

I'll use your example:  You make a chocolate and peanut butter pie.  You say there is little peanut butter in it.. Everyone is happy because it's a pie, just like you said it is.

My example of what their marketing feels like to me:  Its like grinding 2 peanuts into a container of lard and calling it peanut butter.   

With the percentage of actual beeswax, its more like a "flavoring" than what it really is.   Its also that they are marketing to the "natural elements" in it (beeswax and orange), but in reality its a product based on crude oil.   

Now, as a positive - I'm not surprised that you have no problem putting a finish over it as the actual wax content is low.   I think a CA finish would have a problem if the wax content were higher.   I'm sure I wouldn't want to put it on wood bowls (Nor eat it like edstreet :wink - but if the results are good and its covered with a solid finish maybe its not so bad.


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## CSue

Thank you for the explanation, Dean.  

I know from using this product that it isn't worth much at all as a real finish for pens.  But it really makes Canary wood "pop" . . .


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## edstreet

sigh, ok i'll cave in.

Try putting it on UNDER a ca finish and watch what happens


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## alphageek

edstreet said:
			
		

> sigh, ok i'll cave in.
> 
> Try putting it on UNDER a ca finish and watch what happens



I can pretty much guarantee better results than on a salad! LOL


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## Wildman

At only $8.00 at local Home Depot not bad product for friction, finishing. If wanting a friction matt finish I do not expect durability and do not do re-applications. Just looking a ingredients will tell you product not a durable finish by itself. 

http://www.howardproducts.com/resources/msds/Feed_N_Wax.pdf

I would have no problem using this product applying friction finish on dense oily woods. Simplicity couple coats and done, not worrying about wiping down with acetone and applying a film finish. Have had both good and bad luck with oily woods and film finishes on oily woods and always have doubts about durability. Oil tend to rise to top long after finish applied.

Any film finish will pop or enhance grain or figure in wood if present so do not use oils.  JMHO, found applying drying or non drying oils an unnecessary step in finishing.  So just use whatever film finish plan on using and skip oils or polish.

Looking at ingredients of product see no reason cannot use film finish after doing friction finish procedure with Feed-N-Wax. 

Cathy thanks for sharing a good find.


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