# Cleaning up the ends on a CA finished barrel.



## Paul W (Apr 25, 2012)

I'm having a real problem removing the rough CA residue from the ends of a mesquite pen barrel I'm working on. The barrel breaks away from the bushing cleanly but is left with a sharp, plastic edge. Perpendicular sanding with a disk on the headstock of the lathe removes the sharp edge evenly but still leaves an obvious gray colored ring around each end of the barrel. It's a heart breaker especially since the rest of the barrel is gorgeous. I have an order to do eight of these pens but I have never run into this problem before. Any suggestions?


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## SDB777 (Apr 25, 2012)

Can you CA finish between centers?




Scott


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## Tom D (Apr 25, 2012)

When I have that problem I dip the blank into thin CA a couple of time then sand the CA will help hold it together.


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## Paul W (Apr 25, 2012)

I don't follow, Scott.  What do you mean?


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## Carl Fisher (Apr 25, 2012)

He is referring to CA finish between centers without using bushings.  A dead and a live center directly into the tubes.  This allows the CA to bleed over the edge without a bushing to break free.  Then you can just clean up the edges when you are done.


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## commercialbuilder (Apr 26, 2012)

*Sanding Block*

I use a piece of particle board about 4x6 and put sticky back 320 grit on one side and 80 grit on the other then just hold the blank and sand in circles untill you get it flush with the tube. I use the 320 side for 99% of the blanks and the 80 grit side to scuff the tubes befor glueing.


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## jd99 (Apr 26, 2012)

I just use my squaring tool and shave off the over run of CA.

Note# I do this by hand, and i do it as soon as I take the blank off the centers while the CA is still on the pliable side (Not fully cured).


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## Xander (Apr 26, 2012)

Just a thought from a newbie.....
"...but still leaves an obvious gray colored ring around each end of the barrel"

I'm thinking there may be some contamination from 'metal dust' coming of the bushings when sanding that is getting trapped under the CA. I've noticed this on one end of a blank I did.


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## jd99 (Apr 26, 2012)

Xander said:


> Just a thought from a newbie.....
> "...but still leaves an obvious gray colored ring around each end of the barrel"
> 
> I'm thinking there may be some contamination from 'metal dust' coming of the bushings when sanding that is getting trapped under the CA. I've noticed this on one end of a blank I did.


This is true you can get contamination from your bushings, I usally try to sand up to the bushing and not hit them with the paper if possible, I also turn right to the diameter of my bushings, then just sand with 320, (220 if needed) then I pull the bushing off. Then I put the blank back on the centers and finish sand, this gives me the option to take it a little under for applying CA. For acrylic's or trustone, I just remove bushings after final turn, and start sanding/polishing.


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## glycerine (Apr 26, 2012)

Are you cleaning the blanks with DNA after sanding but before applying the CA?


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## bubbamorse (Apr 26, 2012)

glycerine said:


> Are you cleaning the blanks with DNA after sanding but before applying the CA?



I've seen a lot of people recommend this, but I've actually had a problem DNA in this context...it seemed to bleach the ends on my blanks...not sure why or if it was simply one of those anomalies that catch folks but it's happened more than once which made me believe that it was the DNA. thoughts?


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## jd99 (Apr 26, 2012)

I use DNA all the time, never had it bleech any of the blanks.

I have some color come off when cleaning off Cocobolo but it was just the oil in the wood the blank didn't get lighter.

What kind of blank did this happen to?



bubbamorse said:


> glycerine said:
> 
> 
> > Are you cleaning the blanks with DNA after sanding but before applying the CA?
> ...


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## glycerine (Apr 26, 2012)

bubbamorse said:


> glycerine said:
> 
> 
> > Are you cleaning the blanks with DNA after sanding but before applying the CA?
> ...


 
Was it a dyed blank?


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## plantman (Apr 26, 2012)

Hi Paul: This is my way of taking care of that awful looking edge. Check your wife's nail polish for a clear hardner. I just lightly touch my finished blanks to the disk sander to make them square to the brass tube. Use the little brush that comes with the hardener and cover the raw edges. It will match the CA finish perfectly. I will usualy slightly round over my blanks so as not to have a sharp edge on them. Unless you have a sharp eye, steady hand, and a precise calipers, it's very hard to get an exact fit on your blanks! Jim S


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## Paul W (Apr 27, 2012)

Thanks for all of the advice folks. They all gave me some great ideas. I decided to give finishing between centers a try. I was completely blown away! I will never finish another pen between bushings. The slight drop off between the end of the barrels and the centers worked perfectly to spread the CA over the edge and up the centers. I was really scared when I saw the glob of CA it left on the end of the barrel but, low and behold, it sanded away with no residue or discoloration at all. Absolutely perfect. I rigged a sanding wheel on the live end of my lathe. On the tail stock I installed my drill chuck with the corresponding size punch from my disassembly set to keep things square to the sanding wheel. I simply slid the barrel down the punch and sanded the glue off against the face of the sanding wheel. Here's a tip to make cleanup easier on the centers. Use your finger and put a light coating of paste wax on the centers around the areas where they meet the barrel. Residual CA cleans right off. I'm not sure whether or not this is good advice or not, but I use laquer thinner to clean my blanks. It's a little stinky but it does a wonderful job and evaporates immediately with no residue. Buffs up like glass. Good luck to all and thanks to Scott & Carl!


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## fitzman163 (May 8, 2012)

I can't seem to find a dead center is it OK to use two 60 degree live centers?


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## glycerine (May 8, 2012)

fitzman163 said:
			
		

> I can't seem to find a dead center is it OK to use two 60 degree live centers?



Only if you glue the one you use in the headstock so it doesn't spin! . Live centers have bearings in them so that they can spin freely.  You can't really use one in the headstock...


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## underdog (May 8, 2012)

I think I found one answer to the ends of the CA glue lifting and discoloring...

I've been assuming that water, or steel, or wax (or all three) has been contaminating the end grain of the blank and preventing or destroying adhesion of the CA glue during application and wet sanding. So to prevent that, I've been putting several coats of thin CA on the end grain of the blank after milling, then re-milling it by hand to get rid of bumps and humps. The thin soaks in well, and makes a good seal that keeps the water/wax/steel out of the finish. 

It seems to have worked so far.... I guess I'll see. Still working on this tricky finish...


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## EricJS (May 8, 2012)

underdog said:


> I think I found one answer to the ends of the CA glue lifting and discoloring...
> 
> I've been assuming that water, or steel, or wax (or all three) has been contaminating the end grain of the blank and preventing or destroying adhesion of the CA glue during application and wet sanding. So to prevent that, I've been putting several coats of thin CA on the end grain of the blank after milling, then re-milling it by hand to get rid of bumps and humps. The thin soaks in well, and makes a good seal that keeps the water/wax/steel out of the finish.
> 
> It seems to have worked so far.... I guess I'll see. Still working on this tricky finish...


 
This works very well. I've done this for over a year with complete success. You only need one application of thin CA, but use plenty & dab off the excess with a paper towel.


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## Bill in Buena Park (May 8, 2012)

fitzman163 said:


> I can't seem to find a dead center is it OK to use two 60 degree live centers?



You might check a metal lathe supply company.  I got mine from Enco.


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## fitzman163 (May 9, 2012)

Thanks glycerine. As soon as I asked that question it hit me why not. I was going to run back and delete it but got working in the shop. I think I found the solution to my dead center issue. I took a Ruth Niles stopper I had, stuck that in the chuck and now have a dead center. There are at least 2 uses for everything.


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## randyrls (May 9, 2012)

underdog said:


> I've been putting several coats of thin CA on the end grain of the blank after milling, then re-milling it by hand to get rid of bumps and humps. The thin soaks in well, and makes a good seal that keeps the water/wax/steel out of the finish.




Putting a coat of thin CA on the barrel end grain also works well to keep splintery woods like Dymondwood, Colorwood, Mesquite, and others from splitting / chipping out on the end grain.  Make sure you clean the inside of the brass tube so no glue remains in there.


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## glycerine (May 9, 2012)

deleted, quoted wrong post!


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## glycerine (May 9, 2012)

fitzman163 said:


> Thanks glycerine. As soon as I asked that question it hit me why not. I was going to run back and delete it but got working in the shop. I think I found the solution to my dead center issue. I took a Ruth Niles stopper I had, stuck that in the chuck and now have a dead center. There are at least 2 uses for everything.


 
Now THAT'S a good idea!


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