# Enduro Finish- Still being used or fad?



## GregHaugen (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm just curious if anyone is using Enduro, Pre-Cat Urethane or Poly, or if the hype and fad has passed?


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## edman2 (Oct 6, 2009)

I still use Enduro some but I have switched to ca most of the time.


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## bobskio2003 (Oct 7, 2009)

I still use it, like how it looks, and plan to continue to use it.  Bob I.


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## GregHaugen (Oct 7, 2009)

bobskio2003,

Excellent.  I've seen tutorials on wiping it on and spraying it on.  Which do you prefer?


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## bradh (Oct 7, 2009)

Others are switching to some of the other water based poly finishes that are easier to find.
   A few pen makers I know are using water based Minwax or Varathane poly. These can be easily found locally.
   I just picked up some of the w/b Varathane made for wood floors. I want to try that out on some pens when the floor work is complete.


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## jleiwig (Oct 7, 2009)

I was planning on trying it, but the wait time was too long.  CA works for now, and I've found a method that doesn't try to kill me with fumes.


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## Mikey (Oct 7, 2009)

Well I haven't really turned a pen in a year but to me it was the best stuff. Virtually no smell, water based, and it was a commercial coating. I tried the Unilox (I think that is what it was called) and it dried way to quick for me. The Enduro dried slightly slower and leveled easyier IMHO. I also have a pen that someone gave me with a CA finish and there is a difference in feel. The CA pen really does feel like plastic while the Enduro finished pen feels similar, but more like a gym floor and less like plastic, if that makes sense. 

Anymore, everyone I show my stuff to goes crazy over the resins anyway so i don't even bother with wood when making my stoppers and such.


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## chris99210 (Oct 7, 2009)

I use Enduro exclusively since I can't tolerate the CA fumes and have too small and enclosed of a shop to vent into the rest of the house (my wife objects!). For me it's the best solution for a beautiful and durable finish and is far superior to any of the quick friction finishes (I've tried most of them and have a shelf full of jars and bottles I'll never touch again). I only do this as a hobby so the wait time isn't a concern -- I usually let the Enduro dry at least a week before I polish it since that lets it get completely hard. I haven't heard about a spraying technique; I "wick" the finish on with a paper towel as I've found a carefully applied series of thin progressing to thicker coats works well for me.

Chris


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## KenV (Oct 7, 2009)

I still use it (and lacquer) as well as other finishes -  Since it was first showed to the pen turners, it has been sold and remarketed (general finishes as I remember).   Have used other floor varnishes too.   They provide a good wearing finish with low fumes and easy, but slower uses.  Nice finish and polish but it takes more time and planning.  

Once cured, polishes on a wheel to a very nice smooth finish.


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## BigguyZ (Oct 8, 2009)

So, it seems to me that almost all non-CA finishes are buffed via a wheel.  I haven't invested in this yet, but would I be correct in that assesment?  If so, I may need to pick on up so I can try other finishes.


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## Mikey (Oct 8, 2009)

I have a beal buffing setup now, but still sand with MM to smooth everything out perfect. before I had the Beall setup I would grab my car polish and cleaner. The cleaner had fine cut characteristics and the polish was, well you get the picture.


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## bradh (Oct 9, 2009)

BigguyZ said:


> So, it seems to me that almost all non-CA finishes are buffed via a wheel.  I haven't invested in this yet, but would I be correct in that assesment?  If so, I may need to pick on up so I can try other finishes.



CA finishes are also buffed, some buff on the lathe, I prefer to pop out the mandrel and take it over to the buffer. The mandrel works as a handle to keep your fingers out of the buffing wheels. Taking the blanks out of the lathe to buff allows me to change the buffing direction and get better gloss.


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## chris99210 (Oct 9, 2009)

BigguyZ said:


> So, it seems to me that almost all non-CA finishes are buffed via a wheel.  I haven't invested in this yet, but would I be correct in that assesment?  If so, I may need to pick on up so I can try other finishes.



I think it depends on what look you're trying to achieve with the finish.  With Enduro I MM to 12000 then plastic polish on the lathe at 3000 RPM with soft cotton t-shirt material.  At that point the finish has been polished to the 1 micron level, so unless I just do a dry buff anything else I do to it on a buffing wheel is going backwards.  I've tried the dry buff and have also used lambs wool on the lathe and on the buffer and to my eyes I can't see any difference from the finish I achieve at high RPM with cotton on the lathe.


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## nava1uni (Oct 13, 2009)

I polish using a buffing wheel in my cordless drill-have several for different polishes.  Use it while the pen is still on the lathe.  Run the lathe and use the wheel at the same time. Nice finish, good buffing.


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## goodlittlewitch (Feb 25, 2012)

jleiwig said:


> I was planning on trying it, but the wait time was too long.  CA works for now, and I've found a method that doesn't try to kill me with fumes.



Just wondering what method you've found that doesn't try to kill you with the fumes? In earlier threads, I've mentioned an extreme sensitivity to CA...to the point where I will (if I ever work with it again) have to wear a respirator mask. Looking for any options/alternatives to consider so that I can occasionally use CA for finishing.

Thanks!

Wendy (NJ)


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## wouldentu2? (Feb 25, 2012)

Stopped using it when I found the odorless CA. It was good but did not meet my need for immediate gratification.


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