# Anybody try finishing with something like this?



## Huzzah (Jan 30, 2006)

Okay, I am still very new to pen turning and am trying to decide on what finish to start with trying.  I know this is an often discussed topic and open to a lot of personal preference.  I was all set to order some Enduro to give it a try and got thinking of another project I am working on, one where I am using Minwax's clear poly-urethane as a protective layer.  I tried searching but didn't come up with any pros/cons.  

Has anybody tried finishing a pen with something like this:
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/wipe-on.cfm 
or
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/polycrylic.cfm

Is there any reason why they would not be a good idea as a finish for a pen?

Thanks,
Steve


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## gerryr (Jan 30, 2006)

I know the Wipe-on stuff was discussed here maybe a couple of months ago so you might want to do a search and include archived posts.  As I recall, there was some question about durability.  The big issue for me with either of these is the 2-3 hour time between coats.  In that length of time, I can apply 4-6 coats of Deft spray lacquer or I can completely finish a pen with CA in 20-30 minutes.


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## ryannmphs (Jan 30, 2006)

yep, it's probably in the archives.

I use wipe-on poly almost exclusivly.  I can never seem to get the  CA finish to work.  So I stick with what I know I can reproduce time and time again.

I use Minwax, clear gloss poly.

Ryan


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## wicook (Jan 30, 2006)

I have used Minwax wipe-on poly for only a few pens now, so I'm not speaking from lots of experience. What I've found so far is that it seems to work extremely well for maple and walnut, but not so well directly applied to olivewood...and by extension to other oily woods. I always wipe my blanks down with 99% alcohol before applying the finish coat. I suspect that the oily woods are going to require a sealing coat of shellac in order to avoid the finish just disappearing as it's done on the two pens I made a couple of weeks ago. The maple and walnut have held up very well.


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## Huzzah (Jan 30, 2006)

Good point, I hadn't thought about how an oily wood might cause adhesion problems.





> _Originally posted by wicook_
> <br />I have used Minwax wipe-on poly for only a few pens now, so I'm not speaking from lots of experience. What I've found so far is that it seems to work extremely well for maple and walnut, but not so well directly applied to olivewood...and by extension to other oily woods. I always wipe my blanks down with 99% alcohol before applying the finish coat. I suspect that the oily woods are going to require a sealing coat of shellac in order to avoid the finish just disappearing as it's done on the two pens I made a couple of weeks ago. The maple and walnut have held up very well.


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## jjudge (Feb 4, 2006)

Wipe-on poly is simply normal polyurethane cut with a solvent.
I buy the stuff anyway -- since I'm too lazy to cut my regular can of poly with &lt;whatever it is&gt; (dna?naptha?).

But, I'm not going to use it on pens any more.
The darned stuff dries to tacky ... and stays that way for DAYS on some woods. I tried heat, air circulation, etc to speed it... to no avail.

I've tried CA/seal, shellac seal, wiping surface with naptha first, etc to prevent the wood from fighting the poly. So, I gave up last week.

I've moved to spray lacquer.


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## Huzzah (Feb 4, 2006)

What type of spray laquer do you use?  Do you just get it from HD or Lowes, or Rockler?  Do you spray it on while the wood is on the lathe or hang it up somewhere?

Sorry for all the questions, but enquiring minds need to know!

Thanks,
Steve



> _Originally posted by jjudge_
> <br />
> Wipe-on poly is simply normal polyurethane cut with a solvent.
> I buy the stuff anyway -- since I'm too lazy to cut my regular can of poly with &lt;whatever it is&gt; (dna?naptha?).
> ...


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## Old Griz (Feb 4, 2006)

I use good old Deft Spray Lacquer I buy at the BORG..


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## TomServo (Feb 5, 2006)

Maybe someone familiar with enduro can offer some suggestions? I've heard the enduro finishes are almost as hard as CA - something none of the minwax products even comes close to (by a long shot!). at Ace stores they usually have a little display of oak pieces with all the minwax finishes on parade.. i've done some scratch testing with my fingernail and they're pretty sad for hardness..

I've also heard that the enduro dries faster than other water based or oil based finishes. I know it raises the grain less than most finishes (i read a magazine finish roundup recently) despite being water based.

edit: did some searching (cut my finger and i can't spend the night organizing the jigs DB) and found this:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Comparison_Test_of_WaterBased_Finishes.html
enduro came out not so great...


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## Huzzah (Feb 5, 2006)

Great info at that link, thanks.



> _Originally posted by TomServo_
> <br />Maybe someone familiar with enduro can offer some suggestions? I've heard the enduro finishes are almost as hard as CA - something none of the minwax products even comes close to (by a long shot!). at Ace stores they usually have a little display of oak pieces with all the minwax finishes on parade.. i've done some scratch testing with my fingernail and they're pretty sad for hardness..
> 
> I've also heard that the enduro dries faster than other water based or oil based finishes. I know it raises the grain less than most finishes (i read a magazine finish roundup recently) despite being water based.
> ...


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## wayneis (Feb 5, 2006)

You are right on both counts, first of all Enduro has hardners in it that regular poly's don't.  Enduro is a commercial produce made for bar and table tops.  You are also right that Enduro dries faster, withen minutes in fact.  I put a coat on and depending on the weather and temp I can put another coat on in a matter of minutes.  Enduro is not your everyday poly, I know as I've been playing with it for about two years now.

Wayne 



> _Originally posted by TomServo_
> <br />Maybe someone familiar with enduro can offer some suggestions? I've heard the enduro finishes are almost as hard as CA - something none of the minwax products even comes close to (by a long shot!). at Ace stores they usually have a little display of oak pieces with all the minwax finishes on parade.. i've done some scratch testing with my fingernail and they're pretty sad for hardness..
> 
> I've also heard that the enduro dries faster than other water based or oil based finishes. I know it raises the grain less than most finishes (i read a magazine finish roundup recently) despite being water based.
> ...


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## ncboyntx (Feb 6, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Huzzah_
> <br />What type of spray laquer do you use?  Do you just get it from HD or Lowes, or Rockler?  Do you spray it on while the wood is on the lathe or hang it up somewhere?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, but enquiring minds need to know!
> ...


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## ncboyntx (Feb 6, 2006)

Never mind ...shoulda looked down a few post...I got my question answered from HeatherA's post.


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## Spike (Feb 13, 2006)

I use deft spray laquer.
i take my wood off the lathe. (wile one set is drying i can turn another pen.)I dont not like to watch "paint" dry
I put them on brass rod stuck in some 2x4 blocks. I use fender washers for spacers in between the blanks. i spray 4 blanks at a time.(2 pens) I spray 2 light coats and one last thick coat.
also another tip. get an egg timer for timing between coats.
I buy mine at wal-mart.


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## jjudge (Feb 18, 2006)

Deft lacquer spray --- spray light layers while the piece is turning, waiting for it to dry between.

Sometimes, I lightly sand between layers.

-- joe


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