# drilling acacia



## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

Okay - I have some acacia I ordered from ebay from a guy in Australia - really pretty stuff and finally getting around to working with it today.

I have a blank in my 4 jaw chuck - squared the end with my woodchuck tool, no problem - and then onto starting a hole with my centering bit.
WHOA!

That thing just danced all over the end of the blank before grabbing and making a hole so off center I pulled back and squared the end of the blank again!  What the heck? 

I did this 4 more times until throwing the whole blank in the trash.  My first try I did try to drill it out just to see how it would go and it was horrible.  The drill bit was going around in circles - not spinning - and looked as if it was about to break

Am I completely stupid?  What the hell am I doing wrong???
It's like drilling into rocks!


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## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

...sigh...

it was a knot.
I called a friend of mine up and he told me to look for knots.  The whole piece is knots.  Ugh...
So from this whole lot of 5 blanks I might be able to get enough for one cap and barrel.  

That stinks.

But at least I can get that much done.


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## KenV (Jun 23, 2012)

1.  Drill bit not sharp enough -- likely a large bit too.  May not be a split center bit.  

2.  Starting point not well defined  -- use a corner on a square(ish) insert to create a dimple.

3.  Likely your tailstock is not centered on the rotation at 6-7 inches out from the headstock.  (on mine I need to push on the tailstock ram/livecenter to the back of the lathe while operationg the locking lever or the alignment from center is off about 1/32 inch)

Acacia is dense -- but so are a bunch of other woods.  Knots are dense but drillable -- with a very sharp bit and a careful setup


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## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

my bits certainly aren't the sharpest - just the harbor freight set plus a couple of cheapish replacements for sizes I use frequently.

I did create a dimple and did use a center drill - but the knot that was there just pushed things over quite a bit.


I cut off the end of the blank (2 inches at least) and started over with good results - so the whole end of it was just rock hard knot for my not sharp enough bits.  I didn't realize it was a knot b/c it was the entire end of the blank.


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## KenV (Jun 23, 2012)

Thing work better with sharp drill bits.   Drilling is an approximation game in any case, and poor bits make it worse.   Get a few really good ones for the higher quality (price) component sets -- or get the bits you have sharpened by a tool and die person -   They cannot make the steel better --but they can make the flutes centered and the edges as sharp as the steel will hold.  

A lower cost sharpener (drill doctor) will get you about 75-85 percent of a tool and die sharp bit -- but a lot better than Harbor Freights economy bits (have some of those - but not for good pen drilling).

A few good bits -- Norseman, Colt or similar will go a long ways to making penwork go much better.


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## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

okay - how do I find somebody who can sharpen my bits?


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## Curly (Jun 23, 2012)

watch_art said:


> okay - how do I find somebody who can sharpen my bits?



Look locally in the Yellow Pages for sharpening services. In some cases it may be more cost effective to buy new high quality bits from a machine tool supplier in your area.


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## PenPal (Jun 23, 2012)

Shawn,

Throw away any crap drills you have get QUALITY bits. Expensive not at all. Because I drill mostly 7mm I have used for years DeWalt HSS-G 7mm DIN338 Extreme 2 Drills out here under a dollar each, Made in America. I have drilled Acacias to African Ebony to Snakewood to Hairy Oak and up to two hundred blanks at a time non stop. Most electric motors running over here at 240 volts single phase and my drill stand has a one HP motor draw instantly in excess of 30 to 40 amps on start briefly hence the non stop running of the drill to avoid this.

Use a substantial method of holding your blank dependable and safe

I have drilled up to 400 and more blanks with one drill how cheap is that. I have an advanced Drill Doctor but so far have never sharpened a drill. Blunt drill chuck it away what is the real cost amortised over how many pens, cheap as chips.

Drilling technique is care and easy does it like driving in heavy traffic.

An old pic of some of our tough burl timbers drying in my roof some of five hundred at that time, typical of the timbers I drill routinely. the day you set out to get your drills sharpened for you would seem unneccessary to me.

Never have changed the drill speed yet for blanks runs fast.

Now all this works for me complete disclaimer anything you do.

Kind regards Peter.


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## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

I do have one DeWalt bit I got at Lowe's and it's the best bit I have by far.  I got a few from drillsandcutters.com - and while the cobalt bits I got were excellent, I didn't know the difference between those and the Qualtech, so just got whatever was in the size I needed.

Cobalt Jobber Drills, Metric, Drill America | DrillsandCutters.com

Metric Jobber Drills, Qualtech | DrillsandCutters.com

Looks like with the next couple of pen sales I'll be buying more bits.


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## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

are these any good?

Buy Drill Bits - Associated Industrial Distributers


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## KenV (Jun 23, 2012)

Shawn -- you have two industrial supply shops (the kind that sell steel and welding supplies).   Head down there and ask for the best quality bits -- and go ahead and pay the price.   They may not have the odd ones like a 13.3 mm- and then again they may.  

Get a few of the basic bits that you use on a regular basis and see what a really good, really sharp bit works like.


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## watch_art (Jun 23, 2012)

what shops?  
I know there's a fasten-all...
but what else?
It's sad I have no clue what's in my own town.  I'm so used to shopping online for everything I need b/c most of what I need isn't even available in my state (like my art/printmaking supplies)...

edit:
OH DUH!  AWI!  I used to shop there all the time when I worked at the sign company.  Can't believe I forgot about that place.  But being a teacher and not getting out of school before they close shop has helped me forget about them.
I'm heading down next week, then.


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## KenV (Jun 23, 2012)

Google is your friend --   

ARKANSAS WELDING & INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY

230 VALLEY ST
HOT SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK,  AR  71901-6009 


AWL Supply 


Welding



Industrial


Safety



Fasteners


Bulk Gasses



Packaged Gas


Tools



Equipment Rentals


230 Valley Street

Hot Springs, AR 71901

Phone: 501.321.9922 

Fax: 501.321.9043

Toll Free: 1.888.999.WELD


And the Fastenal handles pretty good cobalt high speed bits -  and the site lists even the 12.5mm bits as available.


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## leehljp (Jun 23, 2012)

My mind goes to what is allowing the blank to wallow when the even dull bit hits it? I have had difficult blanks and segments too, but my blanks do not do what you described. How tight are you tightening the blank and how much jaws do you have holding onto it? Before I pull up the tail stock drill bit, I check to see if the blank will move with a good bit of side to side pressure. IF it does, I re-chuck it.

I have a HF 128 bit set in TiN and a cobalt 128 in addition to about 40 specilized bits. I haven't had any trouble with the HF or other sets from various pen vendors. I do have a Drill Doctor and keep it handy.

Lastly, a different method is to chuck the blank, pull up the live center to your blank and turn the tail stock end round for about an inch or inch and a half. Reverse the blank by putting the round end into the chuck for a good solid grip.


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## Tom T (Jun 23, 2012)

I agree good bits is the only way to go.  I was using cobalt.  I was getting mine at wood craft.  But they stopped handling cobalt.  At work I use other high speed bits from a place like Ken suggests and have gone from five holes and burning up a bit to 500.  I have found a big difference in bits when drilling acrylics.  Had to buy a wood river in a pinch and wish I had the cobalt.  Wood river froze to blank on the first half of the pen.
Good drilling.


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## PenPal (Jun 23, 2012)

Shawn,

One of our many daughters is a Teacher Middle School on holidays now and due here with us on July 4th for five weeks, now I guess school holidays vary from State to State (they do over here) but it seems to me quite a long time for you to aquaint yourself with your neighborhood shops. She lives in Utah.

At your school be it whatever do they have shop classes in wood or metalwork theres a source of real knowledge or the nearest trade training area or dozens of places of interest, is there a Wood Group in your area? Think Aristotle and desire to find out and have success.

I noted you phoned a friend and received help be a friend and help others with your skills and it will reward you tenfold in your search.

Have fun above all, incidentally if the supplier of your so called ornery blanks (the sought after by most advancing pen makers) has an addy get in touch with him. If you fit trainer wheels to your imagination put those tough blanks away until you develop your skills.

Every pen blank I cut myself is right angles to the grain and I know they wont be easy right
away, do yourself a favour and look for more friendly timbers at this time graduating to the toughies when you are ready.

Looking at your drill prices in America they are cheap as a lathe I bought the other day made in the USA I have another already that cost me in excess of double the now price when our dollar was worth 50 odd cents to the US. I know teachers salaries in the US are awful however I also know as a twenty year old 4th yr apprentice I built a small shed we moved onto our block and built our house 57 yrs ago next month, no stranger to sacrifice I trust you gain competence in pens.

Kind regards Peter.


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## Wingdoctor (Jun 23, 2012)

A sharp, properly held, drill bit will drill steel easily. The acacia, though very hard, is still wood, and therefore much softer. An investment in quality drill bits, and care to use them on center on the lathe, will find you drilling the blank with comparative ease. I buy a few things at HF, but drill bits are not one of them. As stated the DeWalt brand bits are decent and readily avbailable at Lowe's and such. Try a fresh bit, and have fun drilling!


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## robutacion (Jun 24, 2012)

I couldn't help myself from wondering what sort of Acacia you had problems with, as there are about 1,000 Acacias in Australia...!!!

Now, I sell on eBay and I sell lots of Acacias/Wattles and from a fair number of these species that I'm/was blessed with from around me, there are indeed many Acacias that are very soft some to almost unworkable, also.  My hardest one, with its very appropriate name of "Stone Acacia #47" is a rare thing and something that I only wish I had more or could get more, in my life time however, is nothing compared with what you are describing, even on knots. This observation is made obviously taken into consideration that, the tools I used to work with were of good quality and sharpen...!

Silica, is the most known problem/characteristic of Acacias and anyone that processes a fair amount of these species, such as myself knows that sharp bandsaw blades don't last long.  Hardness is not always the problem with Acacias, the silica is able to "gum" a blade going through soft species, the greener the worst.

So, reading your OP I wondered if being Acacia was the main problem...! reading further, I see that I was right...!

Sharpening drill bits by hand is an art and something that you either can or not do.  Sharpening mechanic set-ups can help considerably but the quality of that bit to start with, is the most important factor.  There is true that a semi-dull good quality drill bit, cuts better than the sharpest bad quality drill bit, why...??? the simple answer is the design of the flutes/twist.

Drill bits are a lot more technical than at first they look, with the advantages of today's Googleing, a quick search would give you a good idea of what I'm talking about however, we have today quality drill bits that a few years ago were only a dream.  They may and would justify being more expensive, for obvious reasons but, a much better investment in a long run, for many reasons...!

A great number of unique and special pen blanks are destroyed every day, by low quality and un-sharpen, drill bits and anyone that lost some of these, would know how it feels, when was too late however, taking that as a lesson and rectifying the problem from such event, is in many time necessary to many of us...!

Good luck,

Cheers
George


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## watch_art (Jun 24, 2012)

Thanks.  I'd love to be able to sharpen these old bits by hand - but as I am no good at even putting a passable edge on my HSS tools, I doubt I'd do anything but ruin a bit.  

I suppose I should be off to youtube in search of some old timers caught on film sharpening bits.


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## KBs Pensnmore (Jun 24, 2012)

The OLD adage "There is no substitute for SHARP tools" I've had sparks coming off the chainsaw blade cutting Acacia and Myall. Half way through a 4" dia and replacing the chains!!!!!!!!!
kryn


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## watch_art (Jun 24, 2012)

I had some fun last night - watched some youtube videos of a guy (expert village?) sharpening a bit with ease.  You just sort of hold it up there and twist your hands like this.  I started with my 10mm bit - it would start off making a hole about 14mm wide and then sort of go down to more or less the proper size.  Now it drills a proper more or less 10mm hole.  I'm very happy.  Now I just need a proper grinding wheel and not that $25 3" from Amazon.


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## KenV (Jun 24, 2012)

Keep practicing if you are going to sharpen by hand -- like most things it gets better.  If you are more like most, your intial attempts will be quite a bit oversize -  but if they are cutting, go down drill sizes to get the efective size hole you need.

The tool and die guys have jigs and wheels to do that kind of work.   Locally, there is a sharpening shop guy that does a fair job for a couple bucks a bit.  Ask around and see what is available.  A lot of old Tool and Die guys are hobby machinists and still have the ability to make bits sharp.

When you get tired of hand sharpening -- the other options will still be there.


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## robutacion (Jun 24, 2012)

watch_art said:


> I had some fun last night - watched some youtube videos of a guy (expert village?) sharpening a bit with ease.  You just sort of hold it up there and twist your hands like this.  I started with my 10mm bit - it would start off making a hole about 14mm wide and then sort of go down to more or less the proper size.  Now it drills a proper more or less 10mm hole.  I'm very happy.  Now I just need a proper grinding wheel and not that $25 3" from Amazon.



Well, you just went a step forwards, congrats...!

You may have the ability to sharpen your tools, after all and to help with the job, nothing better than a white diamond stone on the bench grinder and a tool that keep that stone surface in top notch for every sharp and there is the quite inexpensive "T" shaped diamond coated dresser (looks like a shaving raiser).

Every bench grinder has 2 stones, I doubt that any will come with a fine white diamond stone so, you may need to get one as an extra and replace the finest grey stone that comes with the grinder.  The other rough/coarse stone is needed sometimes to remove or level the cutting surface (possibly damaged) and re-shape it again then, you take it to the fine white stone to give it an edge.  Trying to do everything on the fine stone will not only ware if fast, will take longer, it may overheat the metal and you will have to dress the stone with the dresser far too often...!

Good light and a magnifying lens frame, does help considerably...!

Good luck...!

Cheers
George


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## nava1uni (Jun 25, 2012)

Get yourself a Drill doctor.  It is certainly worth the cost and I have seen them on Craig's list.


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