# Rounding acrylic blanks



## jzerger

How do you "round" your acrylic blanks? I've been using a grinder as I don't have a belt sander. It works fine but very "dusty" and time consuming. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks


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## bitshird

I mark center, drill it with a #3 center drill then just turn between centers, it does require a 60 degree dead center and a 60 degree live center, but these are basic necessity items any way. The center drill also makes drilling the blanks easier.


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## TerryDowning

A spur drive can also be used if you don't have a dead center. (That's what I use)


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## jzerger

Thanks for the help. I drill on the lathe using a pen chuck so drill when square. I always felt like turning from square beat the heck out of my blades. I do have and use a PenPro although I primarily use it when almost done turning. Ken, are you suggesting to use the PenPro turning from square from start to finish?


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## johncrane

I use the same method as Ken!


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## cwolfs69

i drill and tube them while still square most of the time and just turn as part of the maching process. no problems for the most part.


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## Boz

Sharp tools and work slowly.


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## Mike D

I drill on the lathe then turn it round with a sharpened bowl gouge until round then switch to the pen pro. The gouge I hold at an angle so it's similar to a skew. I don't have chip out and it takes it to round fairly quickly.


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## jzerger

Thanks for giving me some ideas to try.


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## lorbay

Between centres and with a skew.

Lin.


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## Craftdiggity

TerryDowning said:


> A spur drive can also be used if you don't have a dead center. (That's what I use)



 +1 Same here.


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## nativewooder

I drill on the lathe and then tube them, and then round them on my 1 X 42 belt sander.


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## jppensplus

You might want to take a look at what Mr. Beal, of Pen Wizard fame, does with a router to round out blanks---


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## carpblaster

I drill on the lathe, then glue in the tubes.then i take it to the bandsaw and hold it on the corners and cut about 1/8 th off each corner, the turn,it does better,


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## chriselle

Fostner bit in a collet chuck....works perfectly.  Let the blank spin loosely in your hand while tightening the tailstock.  Once it grips it won't slip at all.  Also the fostner diameter is good for sizing if you are going to put the blank in a collet chuck itself for drilling.  And you guys owe me a beer with the money saved on not needing a steb drive...


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## alamocdc

I just round mine between centers.


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## jzerger

_Carpblaster:  I drill on the lathe, then glue in the tubes.then i take it to the bandsaw and hold it on the corners and cut about 1/8 th off each corner, the turn,it does better_, 
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Do you have a sled to keep the blank steady as you cut the corners or do you just hold it with your fingers (I've thought of doing this to get some angle cuts but haven't come up with a method I felt confident in before trying)? Thanks for the help,
john


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## Curly

If you are not comfortable holding them with your fingers a wooden handscrew clamp works well. Dubuque Wooden Handscrews - Lee Valley Tools

Myself I just round them on the lathe.


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## keithbyrd

I drill and glue then turn between centers.  I used the corner of the pen pro  - blade to knock of the  corners


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## CHARLES STOPCZYNSKI

*Router.*

Recently had some rectangular acrylic blanks (pre tubed) wondering if there might be a better way.  Placed a roundover bit in the table mounted router and went at it carefully using a device made to hold small objects.  Speed of router was reduced close to minimum, dust collection was in use.  I was amazed.  That first pass was over in maybe 20-30 seconds.  Incredible.  Next I used the same for an oversized laminated wood blank.  Near perfect results.  

I've made a convert out of myself on this idea.  For what a carbide roundover bit costs, and a minute of setup it saves time and does a great job.  

*PLEASE, PLEASE IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS, USE SOMETHING TO HOLD THE BLANK SECURELY AND KEEP YOUR PRECIOUS FINGERS AWAY FROM THAT ROUTER BIT !*

Charlie


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## mdburn_em

*Roughing Gouge*

I know - A roughing gouge isn't elegant. 

Drill, glue, square the ends and then I use the roughing gouge to knock off the edges and then I get aggressive.

No light touch as I'm hogging off most of the excess material.  No ribbons, just controlled ripping of the material off of the blank.  No prizes for delicacy.  I stop this once I get within about 1/16" to the bushings

I switch to a skew or something similar and then proceed with a light touch.  This removes the divots from the material.

My grinder with my wolverine jig is behind me.  I keep the roughing gouge "sharp".  I sharpen it often, but it really depends on the blanks I'm using.  Sometimes after 2 or 3 pens.  Sometimes 2 or 3 times on a blank.  

I do most of my turning with my roughing gouge.  I do like to use the skew to get down to finish size.  I forgot this last night and found myself finishing an acrylic with the r.gouge.  

Of course there have a been a few problems with this "technique" but only a few.  When bad things happen, thick CA is your best friend.

I don't treat a snakeskin blank or a circuit board or anything like that in this manner.  Anything else?  Let'r rip.


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