# inlays using metal powders



## trapper (Apr 9, 2012)

Hi all,
I'm on the scrounge for some advise. I've just started doing some spiral inlay work using acrylic blanks which I have cut spirals into by hand. Then filled the spirals with alloy powder fixed with ca. So far so good.

I've then tried to finnish the blank with usual procedures but the blank has literally melted when hand sanded on the lathe. Anyone got ideas as to how I'm going wrong?


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## BSea (Apr 9, 2012)

Did you wet sand?  Sounds like the blank became too hot & the CA melted.  Try slowing the lathe using water to keep the blank cool.


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## trapper (Apr 9, 2012)

thanks Bob

will try that, i thnk your right that its heat build up  as the blank went mushy in  mid length mind you did bloom into an interesting shape although not useable it broke when i touched it think it had cooled very brittle im told that the alloy powder heats up and holds heat so dont think that helped either will ost pics if i get it right


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## BSea (Apr 9, 2012)

I really should proof read my posts.  

"Try slowing the lathe using water to keep the blank cool."  Should have read  "Try slowing the lathe, and use water to keep the blank cool."

I know you knew what I meant, but still.:redface:


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## bitshird (Apr 9, 2012)

trapper said:


> thanks Bob
> 
> will try that, i thnk your right that its heat build up  as the blank went mushy in  mid length mind you did bloom into an interesting shape although not useable it broke when i touched it think it had cooled very brittle im told that the alloy powder heats up and holds heat so dont think that helped either will ost pics if i get it right



Trapper, what type acrylic are you trying to turn? from your description, it sounds almost like Cebloplast, or possibly your inlay material is acrylester? maybe even under catalyzed Polyester resin. 
But I would also recommend a slower lathe RPM and water to cool the blank, --add a few drops of dish soap which will help slow down rust on your bedways.


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## Ruby pen turning (Apr 9, 2012)

If you have skewed to almost finished size, then you should put a rag on the lathe bed to keep water from dripping onto it and as the others have said, wet sand. I wet sand at around medium speed and keep dipping the paper/pad in water to keep it cool and wet.


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## NewLondon88 (Apr 9, 2012)

it can be tricky.. depending on what type of metal powder you use, 
some will not come up 'metallic' with sandpaper or micromesh. Steel
wool will bring up all of them (I think) but what to do with the blank
you're putting it in?

I'd skew to within a hair, 0000 steel wool and then do a CA finish
over everything.. but you'll want to check first and see if the CA will
diminish the metallic sheen. Sometimes the CA will take that away, 
and then you're left with something muddy looking. But it depends
on what you're using. Copper and bronze will work well.. nickel or
brass.. not so much.

This is one place I might go against the prevailing wisdom.. I wouldn't
wet sand. I've found that the metallic powders come up best with dry
0000 steel wool alone. But again .. depends on what you're using for
metal powders, resin, CA etc. so try it on some scrap and see


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## okiebugg (Apr 12, 2012)

trapper said:


> Hi all,
> I'm on the scrounge for some advise. I've just started doing some spiral inlay work using acrylic blanks which I have cut spirals into by hand. Then filled the spirals with alloy powder fixed with ca. So far so good.
> 
> I've then tried to finnish the blank with usual procedures but the blank has literally melted when hand sanded on the lathe. Anyone got ideas as to how I'm going wrong?


 
You're sanding the acrylic faster than the metallic powder. They are of two different hardness or is it hardnesses??????

The way IMO to defeat this from much experience, is use a small belt sander on the outside of your blank after applying your metal---Not for sanding the blank, but sanding the metal to the same diameter as the blank. This is fraught with risk as if you nick the blank for any length of time, you will melt that small area. Not to worry, but this will sand out. When you get it all the same diameter and start sanding, make sure the metal stays the same diameter as the blank. I use 100 grit open coat paper, and I mean paper as it won't clog. If your metal wont sand, you will improve your skills with the rotary tool and a cut off tool. JMHO


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