# Wood Pen



## liljohn1368 (Jul 24, 2015)

What is the best finish to use for a wood pen?


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## plantman (Jul 24, 2015)

liljohn1368 said:


> What is the best finish to use for a wood pen?



There is really no "best" finish !! It comes down to the product you are comfortable with using or what type of finished look you are trying to obtain. CA if you want a very smooth glassy look. Many types of oils can be used for different effects. Waxes if you want a more natural finish. Sprays if you want a gloss, satin, or a  matte look. The list is endless. Look at the pens presented on this site, and read the makers details of how he or she finished it. Choose one you like and try it.  There are also threads, videos, or articles in the library explaining how to achieve the results you are looking for. I use all the above methods depending on the look I want to obtain on the finished product.  Jim  S


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## liljohn1368 (Jul 24, 2015)

Thanks Jim.. I'm still waiting on things to get here. I was thinking of trying the ca glue first.


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## NittanyLion (Jul 24, 2015)

I would strongly suggest staying away from CA for a while. Try a friction polish, just a wax, or even a laquer....or something similar.  CA has a learning curve to get good at it and can be frustrating.  With CA, it's best to practice on scrap wood to establish a process that works for you. Lots of good info here in the library and using the search feature.  Best of luck!


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## plantman (Jul 24, 2015)

NittanyLion said:


> I would strongly suggest staying away from CA for a while. Try a friction polish, just a wax, or even a laquer....or something similar.  CA has a learning curve to get good at it and can be frustrating.  With CA, it's best to practice on scrap wood to establish a process that works for you. Lots of good info here in the library and using the search feature.  Best of luck!



I agree with Steve !! If you are new to pen turning or finishing, try something other than CA as your first finish on a project. Practice on scraps of wood you have turned, they don't even have to be pen blanks. Even if you watch all the videos on finishing you still need hands on time !! Prepping your wood is most important, as your finish will only be as good as the base it is placed over.  Jim  S


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## low_48 (Jul 25, 2015)

I would like to add a caution if you consider using wax and/or friction finishes. It will look good when it leaves your shop, but those finishes are not a long term, hard use finish. I stopped using friction finish when a pen was returned. The gal used some kind of hand lotion, maybe lots of it, but the pen was as sticky as chewing gum. I stripped off what was left of the finish and the oils with lacquer thinner, and applied a CA finish. Never used friction finish again. I would recommend some type of film finish, like lacquer or polyurethane, as a minimum.


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## liljohn1368 (Jul 25, 2015)

All of this is good to know. I've used lacquer before maybe I will stay with that for now.


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## liljohn1368 (Jul 25, 2015)

I have a pile of hickory that a guy gave me to do some practicing on. I'll practice with the ca glue on it i guess...


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## chartle (Jul 25, 2015)

I used the HUT bars for my first pen and it looked horrible, took it apart and bought new tubes. For my second I did CA with no problems using what ever CA glue I found at Wal Mart and at the craft store. Nothing special no micro mesh or polish. I used sand paper up to 12,000 grit from Hobby Lobby and used the HUT bars to polish it. Just do thin coats.

So I did a bunch with CA and then tried a sample of the Fiction Polish from Wood n Whimsies. While the pen feels nice not sure how well it will hold up. I use it as my every day carry so we shall see.


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## liljohn1368 (Jul 25, 2015)

I've been looking at some ca finishing glue. Says it has a longer cure time. I might try that on a piece of this kickory.


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## turncrazy43 (Jul 25, 2015)

JP, CA makes a great finish if you can get all the variables working for you. Its a great finish if you like a glass like finish. However, If you would prefer a bit of a less shinny finish try Wood Turners Finish. Also, I really like Walnut Oil and Pen Turners Finish from Doctors Woodshop. That finish looks great on wood if you couple it with an antique brass antique copper or antique pewter component set. Just my opinion.
________________________________________________
Everyday I'm vertical is a great day


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## skiprat (Jul 25, 2015)

Why not practice what ever finish you want on the actual material you are using. I find I get great results on scrap wood, then poor results, using the same method, on different wood. 
Once the square blank is turned round, ( miles before the bushes ) sand it a bit and apply your finish of choice. Then turn the finish off and do it again, and again until you get to final size. :wink:


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## liljohn1368 (Jul 25, 2015)

skiprat said:


> Why not practice what ever finish you want on the actual material you are using. I find I get great results on scrap wood, then poor results, using the same method, on different wood.
> Once the square blank is turned round, ( miles before the bushes ) sand it a bit and apply your finish of choice. Then turn the finish off and do it again, and again until you get to final size. :wink:



This is not a bad idea.


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## plantman (Jul 25, 2015)

liljohn1368 said:


> I've been looking at some ca finishing glue. Says it has a longer cure time. I might try that on a piece of this kickory.



Thick or gap filling CA, as some brands are called, will give you a longer working time to insert your tubes, do your CA coats, and also give you thicker build up coats faster. When I use a CA finish on my pens I usually sand with 220 grit, wipe with a clean cloth, add 4 coats of thick CA, spray with accelerator, wipe dry, add 4 more coats of thick CA, spray again, dry, and use 220 to knock off any shine on the blanks, wipe with a clean cloth, sand lightly with 600-1200 grit, wipe off, and use a plastic polish to bring out the shine.  Jim  S


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## qquake (Sep 2, 2015)

When I started turning pens in 1999, I used the Hut bars on wood. Didn't like it. Went to friction finishes, with better results, including homemade. For the last few years, though, I've been using Krylon triple thick glaze with good results. Usually only takes one coat. Keep in mind, though, that I don't sell my pens. I make them for myself, and friends and family. I don't know how well it holds up with a lot of use. I've never had any complaints, and my personal pens have held up well. But they don't see a lot of use, since I have so many, and switch off almost daily. The photos are of one of my latest, a Magnetic Graduate from PSI, with desert ironwood.

Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze - | Krylon


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## mark james (Sep 2, 2015)

I like/use Dr's. Woodshop Pens Plus for a "shiny" finish (NO, not like a CA); and Danish Oil for a more matte finish; and just walnut oil for a natural finish.

I do not sell, so I do not have customers to consider.  (It does matter).

And I agree with Skiprat - what you practice on should be close to what you want for the finished product.  (i.e., don't practice a finish on cheap Poplar, when you want a nice technique with Cocobolo).  

Have FUN!

(If you need practice blanks, PM me).


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## FourOaksCrafts (Sep 7, 2015)

I use a friction polish by HUT. I sell a few and give lots away to family and for raffle prizes.  But I've never had anyone complain about the finish or any interaction with hand lotions. Other than not getting the glossy shine, are there other cons I'm overlooking with the friction polish?

I have tried the CA finish with success a couple of times. It does take a little more time, but gives a nice glossy finish. For those who are getting large orders for pens, does the finishing time come into consideration? Obviously, there may be some tradeoffs with quality or durability. But customer satisfaction is paramount.


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