# Turning Resin  HELP!!!!!!!



## Chuck B (Oct 16, 2006)

I bought some resin blanks from woodturningz I'm turning them get down to about 1/32" from bushings (using a Sorby spindlemaster)& the ends look pitted like the "shattered glass" syndrom I turn the lathe down o 800 pm & start to sand with 220 (dry) I know I really am screwing up my questions are.

1. what speed should you tun resin at?

2. how do I get rid of the "shattered glass" look?

3. Why did I get pits at the ends?

4. what speed should i sand resin at? & for how long & should I stop
   the lathe & sand what should be "with the grain"

5. what grit paper shoud I start at?

6. Always wet sand with all the grits?

7. How close to bushings should you turn to?

Any help is greatly appreciated I can't afford to lose any more blanks

Chuck


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## jaywood1207 (Oct 16, 2006)

I had the same problems with my first resins and I am by no means as experienced as some others who will hopefully chime in but I found that by using my skew (really sharp) and speeding up the lathe as well as taking really light cuts when you get close to the bushing it helped a lot.  Haven't had the problem since.


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## mrplace (Oct 16, 2006)

1. I turn mine as fast as my lathe will go, which is about 4500 rpm's
2. Shattered glass can be to slow a speed, dull tools, or some other factor
3. Sounds like your tool may be grabbing the blank (dull tool or to slow speed)
4. I sand at about 500-1000 rpm's, just depends on how much heat I am generating or if the paper is pluggin up.
5. Depends on how clean the blank is, if it is rough I start at 80 grit, if I have a decent finish I start at 220.
6. I dry sand through 400 grit and then wet sand with MM from 400 grit through all 9 grits.
7. I turn almost to within a 1/32 of the bushing and use the sand paper to fine tune my curves if it isn't B2B.


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## DCBluesman (Oct 16, 2006)

Learned from Ed Brown (ed4copies) and others.
1. High spped on your lathe. Fast is good.
2. Once you have shattered the blank, it has probably gone to the tube.  Drizzling a little thin CA may salvage the blank, but probably won't eliminate the "shatter".
3. Minor pitting is usually are a result of either your tool not being sharp enough or you are turning too agressively.  LIGHT cuts.
4. I sand fast with a light touch.  Most will tell you to slow your lathe down to 500-1000 rpm and wet sand.  Sanding lengthwise should reduce your total sanding time.
5. What grit you start with depends on how smooth your blank is when you start.  Most aim for 320 to 400 grit to start.  You will need to see how long it takes to sand the blank smooth.  Do not let heat build up.  If it is taking a long tim e to sand smooth, move to a lower grit.  Heat is the enemy.
6. Most wet sand all the way through on acrylics.  I never wet sand.  Try both ways and do what works best for you.
7. As your skill improves you can turn closer to the bushings.  1/32" is not bad at all.

None of the above is the "right" way, but successful ways.  You will find what works best for you if you start with these suggestsions.  Good luck.


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## JimGo (Oct 16, 2006)

Lou has given you excellent tips.  I'd also suggest going with a round-nose scraper, rather than the skew.


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## chigdon (Oct 16, 2006)

I don't know if there is an answer to this but why is a scraper a better tool for resins?  I am all for using it I am just curious.


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## DCBluesman (Oct 16, 2006)

I don't know, Chris.  I prefer my 3/4" roughing gouge.


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## mrplace (Oct 16, 2006)

I use a small gouge also. Just haven't got the hang of a skew, and now I am so use to a gouge, I don't feel the need too. I use a scraper on wood, but not on plastics.

Edit: Something else I was going to through out about sanding, is if you have a buffer, give it a shot. I never did until I saw the video on turning bottle stoppers and it was so FAST. Past few days I have hit my barrels with the buffer and it is fast. I have even went through and buffed the end of all my PR blanks so I can see the colors better on the shelf. []


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## twoofakind (Oct 16, 2006)

I sell more resin pens than wood and have learned the hard way about the "shattered glass" effect. Try not to start at the ends of the blanks, but rather in the middle and work out. I use a 3/4 spindle gouge for almost all of my turning, be it wood or resin, with that being said I will finish the tooling with a light pass of a skew to smooth out the blank. I turn at about 3,000 rpm's and start sanding at 220 grit, unless something went terribly wrong and I will start a 150 grit.[]
Andy


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## Roy99664 (Oct 17, 2006)

You might pick up some tips by watching Ed Davidson's videos on turning resins. They are in this sites library.


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## Chuck B (Oct 17, 2006)

Thanks for the help guy's. My Sorby starter set came with a Oval skew I can't sharpen that to save my life[] I have the Wolverine basic with vari grind set up. I was turning at 1800 rpm. I did start in the middle & thought I was making light cuts. I'll try the round nose scraper & the 3/4" gouge. I want to pick up a regular skew that I can sharpen. I'll let you know how I made out.

Chuck


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## ctEaglesc (Oct 17, 2006)

Try softening the edges on the bandsaw or sander before turing round.
Those"cracks" can come from the initial shock while roughing and telegrapf all the way into the blank,
Also if you are having trouble sharpening on a grinder try honing the edge on a stone,


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## Blind_Squirrel (Oct 17, 2006)

Embrace the skew.  Once you get the hang of it, things will be MUCH nicer.  I have to double what Roy said, Watch Ed's video on turning resin.


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## Joe Melton (Oct 17, 2006)

I don't think anyone addressed the issue of filling the pits you are getting. CA will work fine for that. Just touch the tip of the bottle to each pit to fill it and, when all are filled, sand them level with the lathe on. That's what I do; perhaps someone else has a different technique.
When turning, I round the ends of the blank down to the bushings before I take much off the rest of the blank. That helps to avoid blow-outs on the ends.
Joe


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## Rudy Vey (Oct 17, 2006)

You got some good pointers here. I turn fast, rough turning with a spindle gauge, finish cuts with a skew. As many said sharp tools are the trick and don't try to hog off too much, this is when you get the pitts.
As Eagle recommended, I also round over the four corners with my disc sander, so the blank is an octagon and easier to turn round. I begin turning carefully (!)with lights cuts and round the ends over first.
My sanding is done wet with wet sanding paper, 400 to 2000 grit and then followed by Novus or an automotive finish from Meguires.

As you see, there are always several ways to skin a cat, what works for some, does not work for others and vice-versa. Try to find your own way of doing things.


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