# Finishing Tru-Stone



## Xander (Mar 29, 2012)

Hi. I'd like to try Tru-stone but before I take the plunge I have a question.

Does Tru-Stone require any different treatment for finishing?
Do I just turn, sand, MicroMesh, and polish?

Thanks


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## Andrew_K99 (Mar 29, 2012)

I've done a couple tru-stone blanks now.  One was just MM and polished and looks fantastic.  The other had some small defects discovered after MMing that  required to be filled with CA and sanded.

So from my exerienced it'll all depend on which one you bought as some are much harder than others.


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## brownsfn2 (Mar 29, 2012)

You can get a really good finish with Micromesh and Novus 3 then Novus 2.  I add buffing but it is probably not necessary.  If you buff it just gives you that extra level of brilliance.  Before I got the buffer it was just micromesh and polish.  You can probably get a finish you are happy with just using micromesh as well.


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## Xander (Mar 29, 2012)

Wow, that was fast.

Thanks. I'll give it a try. From what I've read Black seems to be harder than others. Just have to order some, and a woodchuck pen pro.


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## longbeard (Mar 29, 2012)

I just finished a Triton rollerball with
pink asian coral trustone for my wife
turned very easily with a roughing gouge then
finished with mm and novus #3 & #2. Looked very good when 
it was done.


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## jd99 (Mar 29, 2012)

The only thing I have noticed is that the trustone that hase the gold webbing in it seems that the gold doesn't sand down as quick as the rest of the blank (the gold web sits proud), it happens more so on white, then the other colors.


Other than that it is wet sand, MM, and polish same as CA.


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## Xander (Mar 29, 2012)

jd99 said:


> The only thing I have noticed is that the trustone that hase the gold webbing in it seems that the gold doesn't sand down as quick as the rest of the blank (the gold web sits proud), it happens more so on white, then the other colors.
> 
> 
> Other than that it is wet sand, MM, and polish same as CA.


 
Thanks for the tip. I'll file that away in my memory bank.


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## Dutra (Mar 29, 2012)

What do you mean by "Polish"? Polish with what?
And whats novus?

Sorry dont know much about tru stone, but want to do some eventually...


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## longbeard (Mar 29, 2012)

novus is a scratch remover to remove any tiny scratches, you can get it at exoticblanks ( click on tools and supplies )


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## 76winger (Mar 29, 2012)

For the most part you can treat Trustone just like acrylic once you have it turned and shaped. The harder versions require carbide cutters to shape, but once you get to the sanding and micro meshing phases, it pretty much works just like acrylics.


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## SteveG (Mar 29, 2012)

If you mean "buff", when you say polish (as in buffing wheel), be aware that some of the web and matrix blanks will blacken the wheel like when buffing metal parts.


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## Lenny (Mar 29, 2012)

If you get a Woodchuck you will help eliminate one obstacle in turning trustone! It is still a VERY HARD material, but the Woodchuck will keep eating it up long after my HSS tools are ready for the grinder.
I WET sand with 400,600,1000,1500 and then switch to the MM pads. I then apply Novus 2, let dry, then buff it with a soft cloth at high speed. Finally a coat or two of Meguiars PlastX, again buffing with a soft cloth at my lathes highest speed. At least that's how I did this one..  http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/roman-harvest-trustone-95636/


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## Xander (Mar 29, 2012)

Lots of good tips, thanks.
When I say "polish" I mean ... apply and buff PlastX. The finish I'm getting just with the MM is pretty darn good and the PlastX does not really add anything but I do it anyway.

A woodchuck will be ordered today or tomorrow with a few more kits and blanks.
I just finished re-doing a Manhatten and a new Wall Street ll and my back hurts (I can't stand for prolonged periods)

Next on the list is some type of fountain pen with Tru-stone.

I haven't reached my 10th pen yet but I'm feeling confident and want to try everything I can.


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## 76winger (Mar 29, 2012)

Xander said:


> Lots of good tips, thanks.
> When I say "polish" I mean ... apply and buff PlastX. The finish I'm getting just with the MM is pretty darn good and the PlastX does not really add anything but I do it anyway.
> 
> A woodchuck will be ordered today or tomorrow with a few more kits and blanks.
> ...



Keep it up! And remember: Turning a fountain pen is no different than turning a rollerball. It only has a different section and nib, and a fountain converter instead of a cartridge and spring on the inside.


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## Lenny (Mar 29, 2012)

76winger said:


> Keep it up! And remember: Turning a fountain pen is no different than turning a rollerball. It only has a different section and nib, and a fountain converter instead of a cartridge and spring on the inside.


 
But do keep in mind during assembly if the fountain pen is postable you will want to maintain alignment of the nib and clip. Not a problem with a rollerball or non-posting FP.


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## GoatRider (Mar 29, 2012)

Lenny said:


> 76winger said:
> 
> 
> > Keep it up! And remember: Turning a fountain pen is no different than turning a rollerball. It only has a different section and nib, and a fountain converter instead of a cartridge and spring on the inside.
> ...


Oh dang! I've made a few fountain pens, never thought of that. Although it doesn't make much difference with triple start cap threads.


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## Lenny (Mar 29, 2012)

GoatRider said:


> [Oh dang! I've made a few fountain pens, never thought of that. Although it doesn't make much difference with triple start cap threads.


 

The only difference with triple start threads is there will be 1 position where it will line up. Whenever I display my FPens in the writing position I make sure they are in that One position!


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