# What would you suggest for this?



## Wood Butcher (Jul 1, 2012)

The local Rockler store has asked that our IAP chapter host a Turn a Pen for the Troops event ib August.  I agreed to prep the blanks they will furnish and match them up with appropriate kits they also will furnish.  We will have 5 or 6 lathes running and hope to have at least 2 members assisting with each one for the beginners.  The question is, what finish should we go for.  I use CA exclusively except for the acrylics but the time for a beginner to do it may reduce significantly the number of pens we get made not to mention the time to "unglue" the newbies from the tools, lathe, each other, etc.  We have a 6 hour window and hope to get 40 or more pens made.  Rockler will furnish whatever we need so, what say you?  What finish would be simple and still hold up when the pens arrive at their destination.  Thanks for any input.
WB


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## Crickett (Jul 1, 2012)

I can't believe I'm saying this ... friction polish ... easy to apply and looks good when it's first done but dulls quickly.


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## Tiger (Jul 1, 2012)

Am interested in replies to this one. I've used Friction polishes in the past because they're quick but I've not had one hold up for more than a few days if they were handled as pens are. CA is long-lasting but time intensive. If you want the best of both worlds I'd suggest BLO/CA finish as used by William Young. With the correct timber this seems a good compromise. A few coats, no sanding and a reasonable result although I've never been able to get the same result as I do when I use 15 to 20 coats of thin CA which provides a better sheen and look.


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## StephenM (Jul 1, 2012)

Break it into stations - have 4 lathes turning blanks and then have 2 lathes manned by experienced people finish the pens.  It's not rocket science and anyone should be able to learn to finish in less than an hour so people can take turns (no pun intended) when the fumes start getting to them.


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## juteck (Jul 1, 2012)

Generals Woodturners finish.

or

Deft lacquer -- brush on, wait a minute, and buff on the lathe with soft cloth - Dick Sing uses this method with his ornaments, etc.   If you have one of his books, he goes through the process -- it's quick and simple.


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## Drstrangefart (Jul 1, 2012)

We had General Woodturner's finish at the one out here in Roswell if I'm not mistaken.


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## The Penguin (Jul 1, 2012)

we used friction polish at the Woodworkers Show when I helped CSUSA in their booth.

I wouldn't mess with acrylics for this activity.


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## terryf (Jul 1, 2012)

Why not use stabilized woods or acrylics instead of plain wood if quantity is the goal?


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## Crashmph (Jul 1, 2012)

juteck said:


> Generals Woodturners finish.
> 
> or
> 
> Deft lacquer -- brush on, wait a minute, and buff on the lathe with soft cloth - Dick Sing uses this method with his ornaments, etc.   If you have one of his books, he goes through the process -- it's quick and simple.



I have to agree on the wood turners finish. You just apply a few coats off the lathe. Then buff it to a shine. 

If time permits. Apply a 5ish coats off the lathe. Put it back on the late for a sanding with 2000 then 8000 then 12000. Then buff it. Looks almost as brilliant as CA and loads easier for a beginner. 

Michael


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## toddlajoie (Jul 2, 2012)

Isn't the Woodturners finish supposed to be allowed to harden for a week or so before buffing? That's what I've been doing with it...

Anyway, to the question at hand, the HUT wax sticks (the brown and white ones) will do a good finish, IMO a bit better than Friction polish, and much easier since it's not a wet finish. It's easy, quick, and doesn't require much skill at all. It's not the best for wood with real open grain or major voids, but the other thing to remember is the vast majority of these pens are not kept and treasured. They are used and discarded/lost/given away/etc... Tho they are invaluable at the time...


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## randyrls (Jul 2, 2012)

I would go with thin CA.  At slow speed, Apply three coats in quick succession with a closed cell foam applicator.  Then use a bit of 0000 steel wool to get a satin finish and even out the finish.  It produces a nice satin finish that looks like the wood is polished bare wood.


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## tomas (Jul 2, 2012)

Sand to 600 and then a good coat of Carnuba wax - buff.

Tomas


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## Wood Butcher (Jul 2, 2012)

Thanks for the quick responses.  There are some really good ideas here and I will have to try some to see what they look like and how they apply.  When I started penturning I used the shellac based liquid followed by the Hut hard wax.  It gave a super finish but after being handled a lot it dulled and darkened where the skin oil penetrated.  I haven't tried the General Finishes product but I will.  I will also try the Deft lacquer approach. I like the quick sturdy finish that would give.  The reality of these being most appreciated but not necessarily cherrished needs to be understood by us guiding the project but not conveyed to the folks making a pen to send to the troops.  I like the stabilized wood idea (we're not doing the plastics) especially for the beginning/novice turners.  Maybe have any experienced pen makers do the CA.  Hmmm, lots to ponder here and I really do appreciate your input.
WB


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## its_virgil (Jul 3, 2012)

Having hosted a hands on penturning area at our symposium (SWAT) here in Texas for several years now and maiking an average of close to 180 pens each time I must suggest not to use CA. Friction polish has been my choice and it has worked well. Check out the woodworkers fin

Sent from my  Samsung Epic using Forum runner


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## rej19 (Jul 3, 2012)

Bill, I agree with a friction finish. I think the possiblities of something going wrong with CA is far greater. I suppose the question is what is the longest lasting friction finish? How are you doing on Volunteers?


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