# Problem finishng Cocobolo



## rossvh (Apr 20, 2012)

I've turned over 100 pens but ran into a problem trying to get my CA finish to look right on a piece of Cocobolo. It looks very rough and spotted - even with 4 or 5 coats. I'm not doing anything differently than the others and they all turned out fine. Is there something about Cocobolo that I should do differently?


----------



## WWAtty (Apr 20, 2012)

I suspect the oils in the wood are preventing your finish from adhering properly.  Try wiping down the piece with a rag soaked in acetone before applying the finish.


----------



## Andrew_K99 (Apr 20, 2012)

Cococbolo is quite oily ... wipe it down with accelerator to clean it before doing your CA finish.


----------



## tbird1957 (Apr 20, 2012)

Can't help you with the Cocobolo, but I just had the same kind of issue with Padauk. I used the same method I have also used and I still have not been able to get a good finish. The CA does not go on smooth, it's rough, or it's spotty or it is dull and want polish out. Nothing seems to work, can't figure what I'm doing wrong.


----------



## nativewooder (Apr 20, 2012)

You cannot use the exact same steps on every piece of wood.  You must experiment, adapt, and try, try again.


----------



## Jim Burr (Apr 20, 2012)

Had the same problem with a lot of exotics, oily ones. A good wipe down with anything that strips off the oils, acetone, isopropol, MS...whatever floats your boat, works well. I've found that more coats works good...med and thin CA. A little knock down with 0000 steelwool helps in between every 3-4 coats.


----------



## EricJS (Apr 20, 2012)

Cocobolo loves a good fight. My first CA finish was on a cocobolo blank & it almost caused me to quit penturning. Shortly afterward I realized how unpredictable some exotics are - _especially_ cocobolo.

There were two things that seemed to make the biggest difference for me - sealing the ends with thin CA before starting (this keeps moisture from penetrating the ends when I wet sand) and wiping the blank with acetone immediately before applying the first coat of CA, as others have mentioned above.

Don't give up. It's the blank - not you. Some cocobolo blanks have caused me no issues while others have given me a good beating.:biggrin:


----------



## PenMan1 (Apr 20, 2012)

CA must be applied to Cocobolo while wearing yellow socks, preferably with open toed sandals while chanting owah tagoo siam. Doing it any other way will result in a cloudy finish

BOY, I sure miss Butch!!!


----------



## OKLAHOMAN (Apr 20, 2012)

Andy, you forgot that you have to wear a pair of poka dot shorts backwards over bib overalls


----------



## jeweler53 (Apr 21, 2012)

I had much the same problem, and have turned just about the same number of pens as you have. Here is what I do.

1. Remove the regular bushings and replace with the with "finishing bushings". (They are available from several members here or you can make you own.)
2. Remove the oils on the surface of the wood. I have had good luck with alcohol (lacquer thinner). It also is a desiccant (removes water) and this can't hurt.
3. Apply 1 coat of thin CA. use enough that you are sure it will "over" everything. If it does not, stop, sand it off and start over.

In some cases I find that plexitone will provide a "base coat" where CA is difficult. 

Dick

I can make you finishing bushings if you like. PM me. The finishing bushings also allow the ends to get sealed which I think is a good thing.


----------



## Pens By Scott (Apr 21, 2012)

I wipe my cocobolo down with acetone before finishing too, this works for me.

The only challenge I have with this is that if you have sapwood, and want to keep the sharp contrast between the reddish brown and yellowy white, acetone smears the reddish color into the yellows.  Anyone know how to prevent this?


----------



## rossvh (Apr 21, 2012)

Thanks. I'll try that. Appreciate your help!


----------



## glen r (Apr 21, 2012)

Scott, I find that if you wipe the blank length wise paying attention to line in the sapwood you should not get the color to bleed.


----------



## 76winger (Apr 21, 2012)

For Cocobolo, Ebony and some other really hard woods I've not even bothered with the CA finish and just applied  a few coats of Shellawax to polish it up real nice. 

I know that doesn't answer the quest of how to get a good CA finish on Cocobolo, but then that's been anwsered above. Just thought I'd throw this in for alternative solution. To me, I use CA to provide a good shiny finish, and to solidify softer woods, burls and laser cut bodies with that nice hard shell over everything. A good hard wood will hold up and shine up well on it's own and really doesn't need the CA treatment. Just an alternative thought to ponder...


----------



## drgoretex (Apr 21, 2012)

Well, just to add another voice, FWIW, I also clean off the cocobolo oil before finishing, though I use alcohol.  Then I spay with accelerator, wipe it down, and then proceed with medium visc. CA, hardening it quickly with a heat blower.  This had worked very well for me.

Ken


----------



## IPD_Mr (Apr 21, 2012)

As a couple of folks here have said, using accelorator helps to dry up the oils so that the finish will stick.  It is not an easy wood and is especially hard when you have burl cocobolo.  Also make sure you do not have high humidty when putting the finish on as that will effect the finish as well.


----------



## Alzey (Apr 22, 2012)

I apply a coat of BLO to seal the wood before I start applying CA.  This has worked for me on Cocobolo, Cedar, Paduak. etc.


----------



## rossvh (Apr 22, 2012)

Wow. I really appreciate everyone's input to my original question. Some great suggestions and options that I will definitely try.

IAP - this is a great site!!


----------

