# Finish for cooking utensils



## dthayer (Dec 9, 2019)

Hello,

I'm turning a set of measuring spoons and cups for my son (just moved into his first apartment) for Christmas. I am using blanks that I cast in the "worthless wood" style using some beautiful manzanita burl that I got from Rocky (rockb) quite a while ago and polyester resin. I have been planning on just putting a CR finish on them but began to wonder if there might be a better finish that I should use since these will be regularly (I hope) washed. And, knowing college students, they will quite likely be thrown in the dishwasher once in a while...

What would you folks suggest?

Thanks much!


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## eharri446 (Dec 9, 2019)

If I were making them with the expectation that they would possibly go through the dishwasher, I would make them out of either acrylic or epoxy resin. Also, you need to consider what ,ay happen to the glue you use to attach the blank to the item.


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## SmokeGSU (Dec 9, 2019)

I agree with Elwin. If you're already anticipating that they're going to be dishwashed, I wouldn't plan on doing them out of wood. If you can convince them to NOT put them in the dishwasher, our go-to finish lately on all of our cutting/serving boards has been Walrus Oil. It's available on Amazon and pretty reasonably priced. It leaves a great finish!


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## dthayer (Dec 9, 2019)

eharri446 said:


> If I were making them with the expectation that they would possibly go through the dishwasher, I would make them out of either acrylic or epoxy resin. Also, you need to consider what ,ay happen to the glue you use to attach the blank to the item.



Thanks. I've already made the blanks and like them too much to do them over (besides not having enough manzanita for another batch). I think I'll go with SmokeGSU's suggestion of Walrus Oil and make my son swear on pain of death to not run them through the dishwasher. 

To be honest, I wasn't really looking forward to using the CA as the pattern is relatively elaborate and it would probably be quite difficult to get a smooth layer of CA on them.


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## dthayer (Dec 9, 2019)

SmokeGSU said:


> I agree with Elwin. If you're already anticipating that they're going to be dishwashed, I wouldn't plan on doing them out of wood. If you can convince them to NOT put them in the dishwasher, our go-to finish lately on all of our cutting/serving boards has been Walrus Oil. It's available on Amazon and pretty reasonably priced. It leaves a great finish!



Thanks! I think I'll go find a walrus and squeeze some oil out of it...  Heading over to Amazon now.


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## Charlie_W (Dec 9, 2019)

I would keep it simple....and less expensive. Mineral Oil & Beeswax....that’s it. 

The Walrus Oil website states it contains coconut oil, mineral oil, Beeswax and vitamin E. It also says there is “virtually no” smell/aroma....which tells me it does smell some....most likely like coconut. Mineral Oil is totally odorless.
Also, I’m not sure why wood needs vitamin E...after all, wood has been around since the beginning without people rubbing vitamins on trees. 

Pick up a bottle of mineral oil at the drug store in the laxative area....(food safe Mineral oil). You might find Beeswax online for less than at Woodcraft.


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## dogcatcher (Dec 9, 2019)

A bottle of mineral oil from the drug store, warm it up and add a quarter volume of melted beeswax.  4 parts mineral oil, 1 part beeswax.  Give him the "secret mixture" and tell him to use it after he "HAND washes" them.


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## TonyL (Dec 10, 2019)

I am 99% sure this is food safe, but please check to be sure: https://www.doctorswoodshop.com/

The owner/inventor is a biochemist and nice guy.


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## dthayer (Dec 10, 2019)

Charlie_W said:


> I would keep it simple....and less expensive. Mineral Oil & Beeswax....that’s it.
> 
> The Walrus Oil website states it contains coconut oil, mineral oil, Beeswax and vitamin E. It also says there is “virtually no” smell/aroma....which tells me it does smell some....most likely like coconut. Mineral Oil is totally odorless.
> Also, I’m not sure why wood needs vitamin E...after all, wood has been around since the beginning without people rubbing vitamins on trees.
> ...



Thanks, good advice!


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## dthayer (Dec 10, 2019)

TonyL said:


> I am 99% sure this is food safe, but please check to be sure: https://www.doctorswoodshop.com/
> 
> The owner/inventor is a biochemist and nice guy.



Thanks! I've used his products before and been very happy with them. I didn't realize they were food safe (checked the site and they are). I'll give that a try!


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## Pierre--- (Dec 11, 2019)

Wax will get off during the first washing. 
Mineral oil is a laxative made from petroleum. Your choice. 
Mankind uses wood for hundreds of thousand years without any finish, tradition could be a good way.
If you really want a finish, I would keep it even simpler than Charlie, and choose the oil used for your favorite salad sauce.


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## SmokeGSU (Dec 12, 2019)

Charlie_W said:


> I would keep it simple....and less expensive. Mineral Oil & Beeswax....that’s it.
> 
> The Walrus Oil website states it contains coconut oil, mineral oil, Beeswax and vitamin E. It also says there is “virtually no” smell/aroma....which tells me it does smell some....most likely like coconut. Mineral Oil is totally odorless.
> Also, I’m not sure why wood needs vitamin E...after all, wood has been around since the beginning without people rubbing vitamins on trees.
> ...



In the past we've created our own mineral oil and beeswax mixture, however the cost for getting everything and mixing it together was comparable to just outright buying Walrus Oil. The Walrus Oil does have a slight odor to it that I would call neutral - it definitely isn't something I would consider off putting by any means. I find it pleasant. After it cures on the wood you don't even notice it.

Looking at current prices on Amazon for mineral oil, a 32oz bottle is around $14. A pound of beeswax is $10'ish. You still have to melt the beeswax into the mineral oil through a double-boiler and go through that process, so for $25 and whatever your time is worth, you can get a homebrew solution.... or you can buy 32oz of Walrus Oil for $25.99 and it's ready to pour. I'm not a spokesman for Walrus Oil or anything, but after doing my own homebrew mineral oil and beeswax solutions in the past, it's a lot simpler and on-par cost-wise to just buy a highly regarding finish and use that instead, and it creates an amazing looking finish on the board. Time is money for us.


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## qquake (Dec 17, 2019)

SmokeGSU said:


> I agree with Elwin. If you're already anticipating that they're going to be dishwashed, I wouldn't plan on doing them out of wood. If you can convince them to NOT put them in the dishwasher, our go-to finish lately on all of our cutting/serving boards has been Walrus Oil. It's available on Amazon and pretty reasonably priced. It leaves a great finish!



Which one?


			Robot Check


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## SmokeGSU (Jan 13, 2020)

qquake said:


> Which one?
> 
> 
> Robot Check



Sorry qquake, haven't been on in a while! We use the "cutting board oil".


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## Woodchipper (Jan 13, 2020)

OK, from experience both in life and selling restaurant equipment and supplies, never put anything wood in the dishwasher! Told my wife this many times. Now I have several maple pen blanks as a result. Good thread as I have a sauce pan that was my mother's.  Need to turn a new handle.


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## donstephan (Jan 13, 2020)

Mineral oil is very easy to find if and when the bottle of finish gets lost.  That's why I recommend mineral oil for wooden utensils and cutting boards.  As far as being a laxative, I don't think that has anything to do with a thin coating wiped on wood and then wiped off.


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## mmayo (Jan 24, 2020)

We use a wood and silicone spatula daily. The stock finish was rough and ugly. I sanded it with 400 grit, wiped it clean and applied 5 thin coats of CA. I gently sanded it with 400 grit and buffed it. It is smooth as a pen and resists water. I do not leave it in soapy water or the dishwasher but do wash it quickly, rinse and dry. 

Fantastic


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