# Schmidt Cartridge Rollerball - First impression



## Texatdurango

I am tickled pink over something and wanted to share it my friends and anyone else wanting to try something slick!

A week or two ago, Mike and Linda introduced the Schmidt Cartridge Rollerball System in this thread..... *http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72453*

This is a rollerball nib that uses a typical fountain pen cartridge for it's ink supply.  

Always up for something new, I ordered a few and got them today and couldn't wait to snap a cartridge into the section and take it for a spin.

Well, I was not dissapointed in the least, actually I was very impressed, no, actually I was blown away by the way the ink flowed and how smooth the rollerball laid down a beautiful line of ink.  If you handed the paper to someone just after you wrote a few lines, they would swear that you used a fountain pen!

I think I will order several more and introduce these nibs into my pen designs as I think they are the neatest thing since socks on a rooster!

Just imagine...... the handyness of a rollerball and the beauty of a nice line of ink that can only be done with a fountain pen..... until now!

I plan on leaving the nib out on the desk overnight then see if it writes well without any priming or drying out issues.

I'll post back with whatever I find in the morning.


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## OKLAHOMAN

George, you'll find it writes just fine in the morning. I left mine uncapped for 2 days and it wrote just fine.....


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## IPD_Mrs

Texatdurango said:


> neatest thing since socks on a rooster!


 
I want pictures of that!!!!

Thanks for the nice review guys.


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## alphageek

Nice to hear.   I just got some of these to try based on the interest in that thread and the great info from Richard Greenwald.   

I think these are a neat idea... Perfect for the person who wants a unique ink w/o having to switch to a fountain pen!


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## ed4copies

Hey Tex!!!

I have received samples of this product, from Private Reserve.  The threading does not even come close to the threads on the Jr. Gent.  Can you give a little more information on how to overcome the obvious "non-compatibility"??

To be clearer, The one that comes from Private Reserve has threading on the last .15".  In that distance they have 6 fine threads. (roughly 40 TPI)
The one that comes out of the Jr Gent has .25" of threading (vs .15).  This is probably not a BIG deal, but it also has 7 full threads in that distance (roughly 28 TPI)  Or, about FOUR threads in the first .15", compared with 6.  CLEARLY this will NOT thread correctly into the nib housing.

So, did you MAKE a new front end?  

How did you accommodate this deviation?

Thanks


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## OKLAHOMAN

Ed, am I missing something? All I did with mine were remove the tip of the roller ball nib and the Schmidt/Private Reserve screwed right in with no slop and tightened fine.


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## ed4copies

As they say, "A picture or ten is worth a thousand words", so I will endeavor to do that.

The short version: how does a 40 tpi screw fit into a 28 tpi nut?  Or, in this case, front section housing?


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## OKLAHOMAN

*My Bad I used the nib end of a fountain pen not a roller-ball for the conversion. Old age never crept up on me but hit me like a right cross from Rocky Marciano.*
*Yes the original Rocky....The only undefeated heaveyweight champ that retired undefeated...*


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## ed4copies

I'm not trying to "nitpick" your words, Roy, I knew what you meant.

Here is the problem: You were in the auto industry, what happens when you take a national coarse nut and try to insert a National fine bolt thread?

It destroys the fine thread, if you force it, and it leaves "crud" in the coarse nut threads!!

I think the picture is easily interpreted:


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## ed4copies

Upon re-reading, I realize Tex never SAYS he put it in a pen:

_Always up for something new, I ordered a few and got them today and  couldn't wait to snap a cartridge into the section and take it for a  spin.

_But next he says:_

I plan on leaving *the nib out on the desk* overnight then see if it writes well without any priming or drying out issues._

IF you never put it in a "kit pen", I can understand how this issue never came up!!

I just didn't read that into the original report.


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## IPD_Mrs

Ed is correct to a degree. As Richard Greenwald pointed out the specs on his informative post the threads are M6.5 x .5, the actual size is M6.3 x .5 but works best with a M6.4 x .5 when using a 6mm pilot hole. It is the same thread as the Heritance feed holders.

I have two of these that I have been using since the first day we got them on a Jr. Gent II fountain pen. The first time putting this in it was quite tight, mainly because the threading as Ed pointed out is .15. These are plastic and the inner threads of the Jr. Gent II are metal. When you screw the cartridge system in until the ring mates up to the metal ring shape of the Jr Gent II you are actually cutting extra threads just as if you were using a die (assuming that the metal threads of your specific gent aren't damaged). This makes for a very snug fit in the Jr Gent II which is quite important. A fountain pen feed holder goes all the way into the metal barrel of the Jr. Gent II and you actually never hold the pen by the feed holder. On the cartridge system depending on how you write, your middle finger will rest under the nib section of the cartridge system. If this fit was not as tight as it is, it would loosen as you write with the pen. Not a problem with a cartridge, but would be quite messy with a piston converter as the shoulder of the converter would not allow it to follow the cartridge system. Because this had adapted the plastic threads to match the metal threads of the Jr. Gent II, I have removed it several times to check the integrity as well as check the tightness of the fit.

While my idea for this product is more for the people wanting to go kitless, it does in fact work on the *Jr Gent II that CSUSA sells*. The one in the photo below has been on my desk working every day for three weeks with a piston converter in it.


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## ed4copies

Yes, I read it several times, I still have not seen any indication that Tex inserted the part into a "Kit nib". 

Feel free to answer the threading question.


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## JerrySambrook

MLKWoodWorking said:


> I have two of these that I have been using since the first day we got them on a Jr. Gent II fountain pen. The first time putting this in it was quite tight, mainly because the threading as Ed pointed out is .15. These are plastic and the inner threads of the Jr. Gent II are metal. When you screw the cartridge system in until the ring mates up to the metal ring shape of the Jr Gent II you are actually cutting extra threads just as if you were using a die This makes for a very snug fit in the Jr Gent II which is quite important. A fountain pen feed holder goes all the way into the metal barrel of the Jr. Gent II and you actually never hold the pen by the feed holder. On the cartridge system depending on how you write, your middle finger will rest under the nib section of the cartridge system. If this fit was not as tight as it is, it would loosen as you write with the pen. Not a problem with a cartridge, but would be quite messy with a piston converter as the shoulder of the converter would not allow it to follow the cartridge system. Because this had adapted the plastic threads to match the metal threads of the Jr. Gent II, I have removed it several times to check the integrity as well as check the tightness of the fit.



Sorry to tell you this mike, but you are not "cutting new threads".
What you are doing is just moving material around, and creating a forced friction fit. 

In reality, you do want the rollerball sectioni to fit against the counterbore flat behind the threads for a PROPER fit, and not the supposed "cut thread tight fit" that you imporperly suggest.

Try taking your rollerball converters out of the holders and see what they ACTUALLY look like.

All you did was cross thread plastic into metal, and probably tore some of the plastic off in the process as well.

As for writing with your middle finger directly under the rollerball converster and not under the nib holder iteself, I am at a loss on either how small someones hands are, or how vertical the pen is, or how many smudges are made writing with this type of ink in this manner.

Sorry Mate, but you really should look at all of this before you give out FALSE information, or try misleading others with something you do not understand yourself.

Lastly, George does not make it clear that the converter (and I do not mean the ink converter, but the rollerball section itself) was not put into a fountain pen front section itself.

Sincerely,
Jerry Sambrook


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## PenMan1

Excuse me for being obtuse, but SO WHAT? Virtually every "kit" that I make can be a rollerball or FP just by changing the front section. The cheaper sets require the addition of a spring ( the JR Gents and above already have embedded springs in the FP sets).

For an additional $25, I'll sell you a convertible RB/FP set that MATCHES EXACTLY and I get the additional parts for other uses. The beauty of the rollerball is that you DON'T HAVE TO YUTZ with a cartridge or converter. You get the elegence of FP without the mess.

This part looks like a mismatched pair of bowling shoes. Frankly, I think it retards pen making! How is this an asset? Who would but this? Certainly NOT my customers, this looks like Frankenstein.


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## IPD_Mrs

JerrySambrook said:


> Try taking your rollerball converters out of the holders and see what they ACTUALLY look like.


 
You mean like this.
Brand new one on the left, one that I have shown in the photo above on the right. Sorry the photo took so long, these hold a lot of ink and had to flush it out to keep from making a mess.





Sorry "Mate" but I fail to see the torn threads as you so improperly suggest.


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## JerrySambrook

well mike, you did not convince me here.
the pics are so out of focus here that the quality of the threads is not visible.

And if you are able to cross thread two different types of thread like this and not have them be buggered up without using an actual thread chaser or tap, then you should patent your process because it would make conventional fastening systems obsolete.

Sorry mike, but I have to say something does not jive with those pics, at least as how they can be seen.

btw, did you wet down the threads to make them appear to be shiny and clean?


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## Russianwolf

not fond of the looks on the kit pens, I guess I'm used to the silver cones that come on the stock rollerballs. From the pic, it also doesn't look like its seating all the way.

Now, as I move towards kitless designs, maybe.


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## KenV

As I remember I ran the small tap I got from lou into the Baron FP easily and cleaned up (recut) the threads and used the heritance feed and nib -- and memory is that it was a 6.4 metric (for use with M6.4x0.50 tap) -  Not much resistance and the feed handled nicely.   

I can believe that the threads might just might be close'nuf based on that experience -- and if the tap will chase the threads such that these will feed, I see a nice future.

I have the tap and can chase those threads --  Have the die and can check these new gizmos --  sounds pretty direct.   Must be something simple that an engineer would miss.....

Possible that the schmidt and private reserve are using slightly different threading??


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## Texatdurango

Wow......... all this flap over a little rollerball nib!

*Just to set the record straight as to what I did or didn't say, did or didn't imply or did or didn't mean.........*

In my original post one of my comments was......"I think I will order several more and *introduce these nibs into my pen designs* as I think they are the neatest thing since socks on a rooster!"

Notice I didn't say one thing about any particular kit (size, brand, rollerball or fountain)....... because I could really care less! I don't plan on using them in kit pens, they are for my designs!

*Disclaimer for the poor photo and using rag tag pen parts.......*

Having just moved into our new home, things are still hiding in the darndest places and it takes opening 83 boxes to find anything..... especially when _*some idiot*_ labelled all the shop goodies "SHOP" instead of being a little more descriptive!

That said, I did manage to find a box of scrap parts, remnants from my beginnings with kitless designs. What you see is an old red body with a navy blue section which the new rollerball nib threaded NICELY into, since the same threads were used on both!

So, without further ado, here is my snazzy pen I used the nib in! Actually I have been using it for several days now WITHOUT a cap, and like Roy said, it doesn't dry out! The more I write with it, the more I like the feel of it, it just floats in the hand and writes like a dream. I will probably incorporate a similar feeling section in one of my designs.  I think a solid red body with red section with the black tip would liik great!

Now, you can all get back to arguing about the kits!:biggrin:


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## ed4copies

_I have the tap and can chase those threads --  Have the die and can  check these new gizmos --  sounds pretty direct.   Must be something  simple that an engineer would miss....._

That is precisely correct Ken!!!!  YOU would be the ideal candidate for this piece.

But the "average kit penmaker" is not likely to have the tap, die and knowledge to make it work.  AND I would not have the expertise to write instructions---and, until today, I have not seen anything said about the additional steps you describe to make this work in a "kit pen".


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## Texatdurango

Well, to be honest, all this hub bub got me a little curious so now that I have found some of my pens, I grabbed a Jr. Statesman fountain pen kit, unscrewed the kit fountain nib and screwed the new rollerball nib in........ nice and easy!

I didn't get to deep in checking the threads since I can't find my loupe or any pitch gauges but screwing the nib in and out a few times didn't show anything amiss. As Ken said, the threads are probably "close enough"!

Here is the nib in the Jr Statesman............


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## IPD_Mrs

JerrySambrook said:


> well mike, you did not convince me here.
> the pics are so out of focus here that the quality of the threads is not visible.
> 
> And if you are able to cross thread two different types of thread like this and not have them be buggered up without using an actual thread chaser or tap, then you should patent your process because it would make conventional fastening systems obsolete.
> 
> Sorry mike, but I have to say something does not jive with those pics, at least as how they can be seen.
> 
> btw, did you wet down the threads to make them appear to be shiny and clean?


 
They are bone dry.  As stated in the previous post the one that has been being used on a daily basis had to be flushed out to keep it from leaving ink all over our photo stand and set up.  If you must know after cleaning the converter out it was sat on the counter while we let our dogs out - each one at a time for about 5 minutes or so a piece.  Then each of them got a good toweling off since we are getting thunderstorms here in Indy.  They love a good toweling and since they are quite big that took a few minutes each.  Grabbed fresh sodas, took a phone call from one of our kids and then came back up to take the photos.  
Set the new one to the left and mine to the right.  I'm pretty certain that you can see the lint pieces on mine, while the one on the LEFT is nice and shiny and clean - as you put it.  I'm not a professional photographer by any means but the photos look pretty good on this side, can't do much to improve them on your end.

The threads are in great shape and I've had this in and out of my pen several times.  I have done nothing additional to this piece to make it work in my pen - I simply screwed it into the pen and it worked.

As far as the rest of this comment, I have no need to respond to it.  You can either believe me or not - that is your choice.  I am simply stating what is working for us.  Apparently these are also working for a great many other people as well.  As Richard Greenwald wrote in his very detailed note about this product - which he reports he has been selling for years - these do work in the Jr. series pen kits.  As Roy stated it is working in his pen .. These are two other individuals who have stated THIS WORKS - 

Additionally, we have sold *a couple hundred* of these since we got them in about three weeks ago and have not had any serious issues reported with them.  The one person who wrote us asking about having any difficulty had a Jr. kit that had "burrs in the metal threads of their Jr. kit" which was NOT a CSUSA kit.  We believe that was probably causing the difficulty that person was having.

There is really no need to respond to my post - I believe I have answered everything you asked me to, I have posted photos showing that there is NO damage to the unit.  My suggestion at this point is that you give it an honest try for yourself and see how it works.  Experience is often the best teacher.


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## ed4copies

_As Richard Greenwald wrote in his very detailed note about this product  - which he reports he has been selling for years - these do work in the  Jr. series pen kits._

I had a very pleasant conversation with Mr. Greenwald last week regarding this product.  He assured me he has not used pen kits for years and makes NO assertions that they will or will not fit any given kit housing.  Very similar to what Tex did.

Everyone can make their own judgement, at this point.  It is clear that the threading is NOT the same from the Jr. Gent to the insert.  If you want to "jury-rig" it, you can, apparently, make it fit.  If 20 Thread per inch and 40 thread per inch were interchangeable, there certainly is a lot of money wasted on extra tap and dies.

FWIW


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## IPD_Mrs

ed4copies said:


> _As Richard Greenwald wrote in his very detailed note about this product - which he reports he has been selling for years - these do work in the Jr. series pen kits._
> 
> I had a very pleasant conversation with Mr. Greenwald last week regarding this product. He assured me he has not used pen kits for years and makes NO assertions that they will or will not fit any given kit housing. Very similar to what Tex did.
> 
> Everyone can make their own judgement, at this point. It is clear that the threading is NOT the same from the Jr. Gent to the insert. If you want to "jury-rig" it, you can, apparently, make it fit. If 20 Thread per inch and 40 thread per inch were interchangeable, there certainly is a lot of money wasted on extra tap and dies.


 

Actually, I apologize, I misspoke I read the post as saying they would work with the kits, when he wrote they would work with the converters (the part inside the pen kit) - we were on two topics at the same time when I was looking at that a while back.

I did not mean to misrepresent Richard Greenwald in my post, although I did misinterpret what he wrote.  

As for Tex, you will notice that he has NOW posted that HIS worked fine putting it into his Jr. pen  :biggrin:

I think you are right though everyone CAN make their own decisions without any of US telling them what to do.  It works fine, and people like them.  We'll let them decide if they like them well enough to keep them around for as long as Richard Greenwald has


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## ed4copies

Once all the facts are exposed, an intelligent decision CAN be made.

I think this thread has become much more informative, thank you all for your insights.


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## JerrySambrook

So, in the end what is being said here is one of a few of items.

1) The manufacturer is making more than one thread size and not telling the sellers. (Bad move on their part)

2) The plastic being used in this is very soft as to deform that easily, which will make it not last. (once again, bad move on their part)

3) The thread are "close enough" which means it will fail under usage in the not too distant furture, because you are not really sealing on the threads.
(bad move on OUR part)

4) There is something else either amiss or not being fully disclosed, i.e the style of kit being used in a jr and not jr II type? (bad move on someones part)

Mike, is there a chance you can take pics of an unsed one next to a JR so as to give us the comparison like Ed did in an earlier post.

I do believe that these have a usefully purpose but a limited clientelle.

Lastly, how does one properly clean these if the color of the ink is to be changed?
Does the actual ball and very tip remove to get a good flow thru?


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## alphageek

MLKWoodWorking said:


> Ed is correct to a degree. As Richard Greenwald pointed out the specs on his informative post the threads are M6.5 x .5, the actual size is M6.3 x .5 but works best with a M6.4 x .5 when using a 6mm pilot hole. It is the same thread as the Heritance feed holders.
> 
> I have two of these that I have been using since the first day we got them on a Jr. Gent II fountain pen. The first time putting this in it was quite tight, mainly because the threading as Ed pointed out is .15. These are plastic and the inner threads of the Jr. Gent II are metal. When you screw the cartridge system in until the ring mates up to the metal ring shape of the Jr Gent II you are actually cutting extra threads just as if you were using a die (assuming that the metal threads of your specific gent aren't damaged). This makes for a very snug fit in the Jr Gent II which is quite important. A fountain pen feed holder goes all the way into the metal barrel of the Jr. Gent II and you actually never hold the pen by the feed holder. On the cartridge system depending on how you write, your middle finger will rest under the nib section of the cartridge system. If this fit was not as tight as it is, it would loosen as you write with the pen. Not a problem with a cartridge, but would be quite messy with a piston converter as the shoulder of the converter would not allow it to follow the cartridge system. Because this had adapted the plastic threads to match the metal threads of the Jr. Gent II, I have removed it several times to check the integrity as well as check the tightness of the fit.
> 
> While my idea for this product is more for the people wanting to go kitless, it does in fact work on the *Jr Gent II that CSUSA sells*. The one in the photo below has been on my desk working every day for three weeks with a piston converter in it.



Ok... I have to say here... There was alot of excitement about this part with its recent announcements - so I (like many others) bought some to play with.

This thread has caused me to go dig out some pen kits, including some CSUSA jr gents and statesmen.

There is definately good information in this thread.  I'm glad its here.   Unfortunately for me, the information has lead me to the point that I'm going to have to set this part aside until I get to the point of going kitless.

There is 2 issues here that lead me to this.   Issue 1 is the threads are completely different from the FP section.  Therefore I believe that any chance of this being a good idea to swap for a kit nib is out for me. The idea of "cutting new threads" in something that already had threads is really bad for me.  MAYBE if there were no threads yet.

I came upon issue 2 when playing with mine (cause I was ok with a test even if it destroyed either the metal or the plastic part) and I think your picture on this post shows the same issue.   I think you might be able to screw this in enough to "stay in place"... sorta.   However, I don't think its threading in well and I don't believe that its really "threading" in all the way.   The rollerball nib had a little "lip" that should be the point where it stops.  If you look at the picture in this quoted post, it looks JUST like my test and has a gap between the metal and the lip.

This is a bummer.. I was looking forward to playing with this.  I'll have to put this somewhere in my shop to remind me to try and venture to kitless


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## alphageek

And for Jerrys request... Here is a shot of the 2 parts... The fp is a stock jr gent II nib.


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## JerrySambrook

Thanks Dean, it sort of answers one question.

Something else I notice however.
The flange on the rollerball conversion you have appears to be the same distance from the end of the threaded end of the converter as the fountain pen feed's flange to end as well. which should mean that the flange should be touching the end of the holder, or be VERY close to it, within a few thousands of an inch or mm, as the end bottoms against the shoulder inside the holder, or, conversely, the outside flange should be bottomed out, and the end should be very close to the inside shoulder of the holder.  The second scenario would make more sence for both an asthetic point of view, as well as a tolerance stackup of assemblies point of view.
This means to me that neither of the juniors shown in previous pics of this thread have full or proper engagement of the threads into the holder. Or that Schmidt did not do a good job designing this piece for optimum manufacturing purposes or assembly purposes.

Jerry


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## ed4copies

Before using any "after-market" product in any application, you should compare with the part being replaced.

In this case, the threads don't match exactly, that is clear.

So, should you choose to insert it, anyhow, you would void any "warranty" to the pen, itself.  In short, you do so "at your own risk".

Someone pm'd me and asked that I look at the Jr. Gents we have in stock.  I did pull ten at random and take out the nib.  All those nibs were the same, shown below.


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## KenV

Aha -- some topic generate strong feelings --  There was some good info in and amongst these posts --  

I am going to get some of these and see what I can do with them -- kitless, modified kit or whateater --  

Another tool in our kit bag -- and an opportunity for those who like fountainpen writing and ink, but want to short change some of the hassle.  


Thanks all for ideas and comments!!!


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## JimMc7

I hope you keep posting, George.  I don't always agree with the way you state your opinions, but that's a nit...I _always_ respect your opinions.  I bought a couple of these based solely on your observation re how well they wrote.  Did take a bit to thread them into a JSII fountain nib holder (not in your original observation, anyway) but not a big deal and I, too, really like the way they write.   The ability to use fountain ink in a rollerball format likely won't help my sales but I have no regrets about the $7 expense to try a couple.


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## glycerine

George, don't let the few ruin it for you!


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## wood-of-1kind

glycerine said:


> George, don't let the few ruin it for you!



+1. Stick around, we need you.


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## glycerine

I just re-read all of this mess.  Then I went to the IDP website where these are being sold.  The thread size of these gizmos is stated on that page, so I don't see what all the fuss is about.  If someone wants to use these in a kit, then they can check the threads of said kit to see if the "cartridge rollerball system" will work.  Otherwise, they can use them in a kitless pen and cut their own threads.  That's all there is to it...


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## KenV

George -- You did good!!!  

The thread took some dips and dives, but you established a good performance review that we can all use -- regardless of our style of pen creation.   

I have started to acquire some of this stuff and see where it takes me.   

Headed to Az to snobird next week and attend the Desert Woodturners Roundup (I am looking forward to sitting in a couple of Don Ward Rotations).


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## alphageek

I will say this much.... (then I will follow George's request  and make my own thread) - I agree that for a custom kit maker, this thing seems really good as it has been writing very nicely.   I have been playing with one for 2 days now, and it does write really nice.   I am going to use it more this week, then I'll right up my own review from a kit users perspective.


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## OKLAHOMAN

Dean, I've been using one on a Jr. now for about 2 1/2 weeks.... When your ready to write a review if you don't mind I'll either write my own or add to yours......


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## KenV

One of the observations and questions in the discussions --   Are the threads from the Schmidt branded units different from those with Private Reserve brands.   The information suggests "they ain't the same".   Such a difference would account for the different experiences and perspectives.   So --  Dean and Roy -- Please be explicit about the unit you are using and/or measure the threading.


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## alphageek

OKLAHOMAN said:


> Dean, I've been using one on a Jr. now for about 2 1/2 weeks.... When your ready to write a review if you don't mind I'll either write my own or add to yours......



Roy,

I'd be thrilled to have the views of another on this, especially someone with more pen experience than I have.  The part still has my attention for a couple of reasons, so if there is alternate views to my conclusions, I am open to discussion.


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## OKLAHOMAN

alphageek said:


> OKLAHOMAN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dean, I've been using one on a Jr. now for about 2 1/2 weeks.... When your ready to write a review if you don't mind I'll either write my own or add to yours......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roy,
> 
> I'd be thrilled to have the views of another on this, especially someone with more pen experience than I have. The part still has my attention for a couple of reasons, so if there is alternate views to my conclusions, I am open to discussion.
Click to expand...

 
Will write what my opinon is weather we  have altenate views or we agree:biggrin:



KenV said:


> One of the observations and questions in the discussions -- Are the threads from the Schmidt branded units different from those with Private Reserve brands. The information suggests "they ain't the same". Such a difference would account for the different experiences and perspectives. So -- Dean and Roy -- Please be explicit about the unit you are using and/or measure the threading.


 
Ken I'm a Private reserve dealer so at this point that's the unit I'm using although I think (99% sure) it's just private labled by them from Schmidt.
I've ordered a couple of the Schmidts from Richard Greenwald
and will compare threading also just to be sure...


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## IPD_Mrs

KenV said:


> George -- You did good!!!
> 
> The thread took some dips and dives, but you established a good performance review that we can all use -- regardless of our style of pen creation.
> 
> I have started to acquire some of this stuff and see where it takes me.
> 
> Headed to Az to snobird next week and attend the Desert Woodturners Roundup (I am looking forward to sitting in a couple of Don Ward Rotations).


 

Ken, 

Your Roller Ball Cartridge systems went out today, didn't know you were taking off for AZ.  Hope you have a great time in the warm weather there!!
Have fun playing around with the new gizmos


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## IPD_Mrs

OKLAHOMAN said:


> alphageek said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OKLAHOMAN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dean, I've been using one on a Jr. now for about 2 1/2 weeks.... When your ready to write a review if you don't mind I'll either write my own or add to yours......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roy,
> 
> I'd be thrilled to have the views of another on this, especially someone with more pen experience than I have. The part still has my attention for a couple of reasons, so if there is alternate views to my conclusions, I am open to discussion.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Will write what my opinon is weather we have altenate views or we agree:biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> KenV said:
> 
> 
> 
> One of the observations and questions in the discussions -- Are the threads from the Schmidt branded units different from those with Private Reserve brands. The information suggests "they ain't the same". Such a difference would account for the different experiences and perspectives. So -- Dean and Roy -- Please be explicit about the unit you are using and/or measure the threading.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Ken I'm a Private reserve dealer so at this point that's the unit I'm using although I think (99% sure) it's just private labled by them from Schmidt.
> I've ordered a couple of the Schmidts from Richard Greenwald
> and will compare threading also just to be sure...
Click to expand...

 
Roy is quite right.  The Roller units are Schmidt brand units from Private Reserve but they are not labeled to my knowledge.  There shouldn't be any difference in the units whether you get them straight from Schmidt, straight from PR, through Richard or from us.


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