# Stabilized wood finishing



## bluesguitar (Oct 26, 2012)

I have a couple stabilized wood blanks from PSI and they're ready to turn but I realize I'm not sure how to finish them once they're done.

I did a search here and online and not seeing much in terms of specific recommendations.

I've made about 100 pens and get good results on wood with CA glue as well as other stuff like the Shellawax and other easy turners finishes.  I've made a few acrylic pens and have also had good results with sanding and polishing.

So my question is whether CA glue would make sense for these stabilized wood blanks or if I should just polish them as if they're acrylic.  I guess I could just try the latter and go to the glue if it doesn't meet expectations?

Thanks,

Mitch


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## wiset1 (Oct 26, 2012)

You're likely to get a multitude of takers on this subject and results will vary based on the material that was stabilized and how it was stabilized.  There no one real answer in my opinion, so I would imagine turning it first and testing the waters so to speak filling voids where they exist and then working through the pads or paste depending on your finish of choice.  I choose to add a CA finish, but that's just me.


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## mrcook4570 (Oct 26, 2012)

If you do not want your work to get dull and dirty with use, apply a finish (and not a friction polish).  Even if it is stabilized, it is still not 100% acrylic.  The wood fibers can and will absorb some dirt and oils if the wood is not protected.


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## toddlajoie (Oct 26, 2012)

A lot will depend on the stabilization method also. A lot of stuff done here by members of the forum is great for firming up wood, but when it's done, it needs a finish and I've always done CA finishes on these and they come out fantastic. I have also bought a few commercially stabilized blanks, and one in particular that I bought early on in my turning (for technical correctness, it was Stabilized Buckeye Burl from PSI, I think it was one of Barry Gross's branded blanks...) I turned for the body of a sketch pencil and put no finish on it, just Micromesh. It polished up nice, and I used it as a shop pencil for a long summer of home remodeling, but lost it near the end of the year. Found it in the spring when I moved the picnic table, and it survived the winter (Massachusetts, so it was under snow for several months) and spring out in the elements. I could no longer consider it "shiny" as it was when it was new, it was also nowhere near in need of being refinished...

So, IMO, if it is one of the commercially stabilized blanks, you might be just fine with no finish at all, as long as you are aware it will not be that plastic shiny of a good CA finish forever, you can just polish or buff it and be done. If you're making a high end pen tho, I would go with a good CA...


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## Jim Burr (Oct 26, 2012)

I stabilize my own stuff with Cactus Juice. CA works just great on all of them. I may get the notion to try some WTF sometime soon.


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## bluesguitar (Oct 27, 2012)

This is a commercially stabilized blank from PSI if that makes a difference...


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## KenV (Oct 27, 2012)

Wood, being some what like a cat, seems to always be a little contrary.  The chemicals are not evenly distributed. And in some woods, poorly distributed.  Just the nature of the product.

I find it can be difficult to find the different levels o penetration.  Dyed blanks are easier to evaluate, but can also give a surprise.

I plan on a finish, and seldom get surprised.


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## Donovan (Oct 27, 2012)

I agree with Ken putting on a CA finish is not a big job and then you know that it will last rather than hoping it will last
Donovan


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## bluesguitar (Oct 28, 2012)

I really appreciate all the responses, thanks.  I ended up tearing out a chunk of the lower blank and realized the material is more delicate than I expected...I decided to swap out the bottom blank with a piece of contrasting wood so I 'll end up doing CA on both so should be Ok.


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