# CA over Rosewood



## Linarestribe (Dec 14, 2011)

Question for you experienced CA users. Does East Indian Rosewood take CA  or is it one of those too oily ones? Any tips would be great. 

Jorge


----------



## MesquiteMan (Dec 14, 2011)

I have yet to find a blank of any kind that was too oily to take a CA finish.  A trick is to wipe it down well with accelerator right before you apply your first coat.  Don't even let the accelerator dry.  Works great for me.


----------



## ctubbs (Dec 14, 2011)

I've used it with no problems, but I hear others have had the other reaction.  Clean the sanded blank with either Accelerator or DNA and then apply the finish is the advice I have heard.  Hang around for another few minutes and there will be other points of view.  
Charles


----------



## PenMan1 (Dec 14, 2011)

It'll take CA. My advise is to finish sand (whatever number you decide is final) THEN hit it with 3 rounds of CA accelerator before proceeding to CA finish.

The games will now start with "Well I use....", but accelerator has LESS water in it than most Acetone, ALL DNA and most other "DOODAHS".

WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT START THE FINISH PROCESS WITH BLO! EIR has so much sap that you could make pancake syrup from the "ring out" of the dryist piece you'll ever find.

Luthiers refer to EIR as "shedevil" wood.


----------



## DrPepper8412 (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks for the tips guys! I've been thinking about using acetone first...thoughts?


----------



## Linarestribe (Dec 14, 2011)

Glad to hear it won't be too much of a problem. I'm actually putting it on some of PSIs mini peppermills. I made a test piece out of ash but the final X-MAS gifts will be out of Maple and Rosewood. 

Jorge


----------



## islandturner (Dec 14, 2011)

Funny that you should post this today. I've just had to reject a Honduran Rosewood Burl pen because something came up thru the finish that caused dull spots. You can sort of see them in these photos:












In many hundreds of CA finishs, I've never had this happen before. I guess I'll remove the finish and try sealing it. It's really nice wood, so I'd hate to lose it.

The other solution might be to stabalize them before turning?

Tks
Steve


----------



## Drstrangefart (Dec 14, 2011)

islandturner said:


> Funny that you should post this today. I've just had to reject a Honduran Rosewood Burl pen because something came up thru the finish that caused dull spots. You can sort of see them in these photos:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



before you chuck it, try hitting those barrels HARD with 600 grit sandpaper until all the shiny is gone, then do the CA again. It may OR may not help. Usually helps me.


----------



## mrcook4570 (Dec 14, 2011)

islandturner said:


> Funny that you should post this today. I've just had to reject a Honduran Rosewood Burl pen because something came up thru the finish that caused dull spots. You can sort of see them in these photos:
> 
> In many hundreds of CA finishs, I've never had this happen before. I guess I'll remove the finish and try sealing it. It's really nice wood, so I'd hate to lose it.
> 
> ...




That is your CA soaking into the endgrain area of that burl rather than laying on top of the side grain.  Keep applying CA until the endgrain areas are completely saturated, then apply a few more layers of CA.


----------



## Linarestribe (Dec 14, 2011)

mrcook4570 said:
			
		

> That is your CA soaking into the endgrain area of that burl rather than laying on top of the side grain.  Keep applying CA until the endgrain areas are completely saturated, then apply a few more layers of CA.



Do you give it more time to soak in this situation or just load up on the CA?


----------



## Drstrangefart (Dec 14, 2011)

Linarestribe said:


> mrcook4570 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I usually load it with extra CA, sand aggressively, then basically start the CA from scratch all over again. As a bonus you get one of the smoothest, most pleasant surfaces you've ever laid CA on once all the endgrain stuff is solid.


----------



## islandturner (Dec 14, 2011)

mrcook4570 said:


> That is your CA soaking into the endgrain area of that burl rather than laying on top of the side grain. Keep applying CA until the endgrain areas are completely saturated, then apply a few more layers of CA.


 
Hi Stan,

I'm not sure about that?

There were a couple of hairline cracks in the burl, and after sanding, I coated the end cap fairly liberally with thin CA; then carefully skewed it off before finishing. The finish seemed to go on normally, and then the dark blemishs seemed to come up out of the the wood within a day afterwards. The blanks are dry; it's been almost a year since I got them. I'm thinking I might strip the finish off and soak them in Minwax wood hardener for a few days.

There were none of these blemishs in the 'nib end', and it's similar in appearance to the 'cap end'.

Thanks
Steve


----------



## log2lumber (Dec 17, 2011)

*ca cloudy too on my recent turning*

I had the same thing happen on the wood side of the blank. The antler side was perfect.  I am going to restart and see what happens.  

Mine was 10 coats of thin ca/blo on a wenge blank.  It did not fog until a week later.

Any advice?


----------



## Donovan's Corner (Jan 13, 2012)

Drstrangefart said:


> islandturner said:
> 
> 
> > Funny that you should post this today. I've just had to reject a Honduran Rosewood Burl pen because something came up thru the finish that caused dull spots. You can sort of see them in these photos:
> ...



I had this happen to me with Zrircote, Ebony, and Cocobolo this week.  I will get some accelerator like suggested and "prime the surface with the next ones I try.  I hope it works.  

With Ebony I once had a pen where the CA chipped off while pressing it together.


----------



## Pariss (Jan 18, 2012)

Are you sure your not sanding through your finish ?. If not, always apply 20 coats of thin C.A (minimum)then WET sand with Micro Mesh pads. No more than 5 seconds per grade @ 3,000 RPM on lathe. I always apply 20 coats of thin C.A. 100% perfect finish EVERY time !!!. Oily timber, clean off with Metho spirits first, let dry for 5 minutes. Can't go wrong !!!


----------

