# how to clean really rusty tools?



## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

As several of you know,we had a bit of a water
invasion back early June this year.
I have had most of my large power tools stored at a Cousin's house,
he and his son were going to help out and clean them up for me.
Well, I finally got settled in the new place and remodeling cleaned up,
so went to get the tools.Driving,very happy,arrived at cousin's house.
OH MY ACHING  _ _ _. He left most set outside and only cleaned a couple,must have been too busy to let me know they were 
rusting away in his back yard.
Ah well,it's the thought that counts
Much damage is done,but several will start up so worth trying to save.
Anyway,I seem to remember someone mentioning some good stuff
for cleaning up rusty cast iron/steel tool tops.
Any suggestions??,all will be appreciated!
Thanks


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## Skye (Nov 30, 2008)

PB Blaster and a steer bristle cup?


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## Dario (Nov 30, 2008)

Try evapo-rust.  It works like a charm.

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

BTW, you can find/buy them at Home Depot or Lowe's


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## Daniel (Nov 30, 2008)

may not be the best priced way to go but after a lifetime of cleaning up equipment from construction sights. WD-40 does a nice job on rust. a lot of times I just put small stuff in it to soak and never did have to scrub scrape or otherwise waste my time. Might want to keep it in mind for all the hard to reach crevices.


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## Daniel (Nov 30, 2008)

By the way Johnny, Nice to see you making a come back. I've thought of you often.


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## VisExp (Nov 30, 2008)

Another vote here for Evapo-Rust. I recomended it a while back to markgum when he was restoring a bandsaw. You can see the results here: http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6582&highlight=rust


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## snowman56 (Nov 30, 2008)

Johnny
Very glad to hear you are getting back to normal,what ever normal may be


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## sdemars (Nov 30, 2008)

You might need a shovel for the cousin ! ! !


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## workinforwood (Nov 30, 2008)

Bostik has all the products  you need, the rust remover, the top coat and the slick spray.  They are the #1 rated product by Wood magazine for rust removal and protection.  Best of all, they are made right here in Michigan!  Buy American.  I have to say too, that I use their products, and the rust remover..omg that stuff is costic!  I don't know if it is PSP, but smells like it..you need a respirator and to be outside if possible.  It will take the paint right off your tools too, so don't spray it on the paint..mask the painted area's in close vicinity to where you are spraying!

http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index.asp?fa=divisions&divisionId=3
I don't see the product for rust removal in the rust tool area, but if you call and order, they know what you need.  It might even be evapo-rust that they make/sell, i can't remember, but I know it works.


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## woodboys (Nov 30, 2008)

I hope it's ok to add a link here. I just seen this last night. I use electrolysis on small things but I see how he does this on large things and was impressed. This is the best way I've found to remove all rust not just what you see. 

http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/electrolysis.htm


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

Thanks to everyone for the replies, lots of great ideas here.
I knew I could count on you guys for good advice!
The evapo-rust looks interesting,tried my local Lowe's and got a blank look.
I did see that the manufacturer sells directly over the net,so may order some.

Skye,that PB blaster is good stuff for the money,I used 2 or 3 cans on my guns the day after the flood and it saved them from harm.

I'm cleaning the tools in garage now since it's a bit cold outdoors,so looking for low fume/odor product.

Daniel and Robert,Thanks for the kind words.It's good to know you all haven't forgotten me even though I've been scarce around here.

Lots of options here,I never would have found on my own.:biggrin:
Again,thanks to all who have helped!

I am SO looking forward to cleaning these tools up,and making some chips!!


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## Dario (Nov 30, 2008)

johnnycnc said:


> The evapo-rust looks interesting,tried my local Lowe's and got a blank look.
> 
> I'm cleaning the tools in garage now since it's a bit cold outdoors,so looking for low fume/odor product.



I did get the same response when I was looking but found it on my own.  It is harder to find good help nowadays :wink:.

As far as I can remember, it is a no fume product, water soluble and is biodegradable (double check this please).


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 30, 2008)

WD-40, stainless steel scrub pads and elbow grease.


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

OK, after much thinking on how to resize photos to post here,
I reloaded Picasa on new PC and got going again.
Here are some of my "treasures",heh. Just lovely!
I also have a ton of hand tools,sockets and the like that would be rough to
hand clean each piece,but l think would be easy as pie to soak in the 
Evapo-Rust.I will be trying some of that.:biggrin:


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## workinforwood (Nov 30, 2008)

Are those your tools, or did you take pictures of the tools at my local Harbour Freight store?  Cause they look the same!


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

Jeff,of course these are mine...
Didn't you notice they had most of the parts still in place?



workinforwood said:


> Are those your tools, or did you take pictures of the tools at my local Harbour Freight store?  Cause they look the same!


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## woodboys (Nov 30, 2008)

John, Did you check out the link I posted? I've done the electrolysis on different things and I'm very impressed at the ease and effectiveness of it. You can search the site and see some of his lathes he's done before. It's easy and no stink. As long as you have a battery charger and baking soda. If water got to it, this will get to it and get all the rust out. Including in the threads. And you can put what you want on to stop recurring rust instead of having a petroleum mess or silicon that you can't put a finish on your product because of it.


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

Billy,
Thank you for posting that link.
Yes,I did check it out. I might give this a try, but I can't/don't want to
fully disassemble a lot of the tools to soak them in a pail or tub.
I don't think the dip would be good for motors and electrics,
and I sometimes wind up with entirely too many spare parts if I tear things down too far,is my point.:biggrin:
If I can get the worst of the rust off so things will be useable,
i'll be fairly happy at this point.
I'm guessing lots of little parts,buried deep inside housings,motors,etc. 
will eventually fail and I'll consider repair/replacement at that point in time.

I do have a battery charger and 5 gallon pail,not sure about wires and 
steel bars, but I could scrounge at work!

I'll post up the results if I give it a go.Thanks for your help!!



woodboys said:


> John, Did you check out the link I posted? I've done the electrolysis on different things and I'm very impressed at the ease and effectiveness of it. You can search the site and see some of his lathes he's done before. It's easy and no stink. As long as you have a battery charger and baking soda. If water got to it, this will get to it and get all the rust out. Including in the threads. And you can put what you want on to stop recurring rust instead of having a petroleum mess or silicon that you can't put a finish on your product because of it.


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## woodboys (Nov 30, 2008)

John, If you scroll down to the bottom you see where he made a frame from wood and used plastic to line it and used that to hold a lathe. The hole lathe. Minus the motor. You could probably put the motor in also as long as you blew the water off and made sure it was dry before starting it. As he explains you could even dig a hole and line it with plastic or a tarp to hold the water in. Just hook up a positive lead to a piece of steel like rebar or something and put it in the water and hook the ground wire to your part you want the rust off and put it in the water and let it sit, presto your done in a day. No need to make a fancy rig with a bunch of rods hooked up in sequench. I use this method a lot. It's easy, and it works great. Just my 2 cents, It would seem a lot easier then scrubbing and only getting what you can see.


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 30, 2008)

woodboys said:


> John, If you scroll down to the bottom you see where he made a frame from wood and used plastic to line it and used that to hold a lathe. The hole lathe. Minus the motor. You could probably put the motor in also as long as you blew the water off and made sure it was dry before starting it. As he explains you could even dig a hole and line it with plastic or a tarp to hold the water in. Just hook up a positive lead to a piece of steel like rebar or something and put it in the water and hook the ground wire to your part you want the rust off and put it in the water and let it sit, presto your done in a day. No need to make a fancy rig with a bunch of rods hooked up in sequench. I use this method a lot. It's easy, and it works great. Just my 2 cents, It would seem a lot easier then scrubbing and only getting what you can see.



The electrolysis bath is good advice. I have a tub in the garage rigged up for doing this. Guys who like to restore old tools use this method, including digging holes and lining with plastic for big things. I forget who you said did this to you in the first place. Either way, you need new friends or relatives, whichever.


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## markgum (Nov 30, 2008)

Johnny;
the evap-o-rust gets my vote also.  I used it on a band saw I got.  The table was nothing but rust.  I let it soak overnight and the next morning a wipe with a paper towel and it looked new.  

I think I posted some before and after photos here I'll dig around and see if I can find them.  

I ordered it from the online store.  
good to see you around and sounds like things are moving forward for you.


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

I'm trying to forget also,Frank. It was actually a relative.
If you can't trust family, that's getting pretty sad.



Rifleman1776 said:


> I forget who you said did this to you in the first place. Either way, you need new friends or relatives, whichever.


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

Mark,
Thanks for the vote,I'm going to try the evapo-rust.
I have ordered some already!
If it works as advertised,I have a new shop helper in a jug!!.
Things are inching forward,and why just this evening I've become 
very familiar with a performax drum sander that I never knew had so many bolts in it. (one of the few that has a locked up motor).
Take care,



markgum said:


> Johnny;
> the evap-o-rust gets my vote also.  I used it on a band saw I got.  The table was nothing but rust.  I let it soak overnight and the next morning a wipe with a paper towel and it looked new.
> 
> I think I posted some before and after photos here I'll dig around and see if I can find them.
> ...


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## Hayseedboy (Nov 30, 2008)

Hey Johnny,

This might be a fun way to give it a try.  I know it works on Cast Iron anyway and there is a certain amount of danger that could make it fun   Thinkin' about having my 13 year old use it for a science experiment.

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

lr


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## johnnycnc (Nov 30, 2008)

Thanks, Larry 
You know me,if there is a certain danger,then yes,it is fun!
I bet your 13 year old would enjoy it, man did you see the foamy
rust scum in that guys photos!!:biggrin:
Seriously,this is on my list of things to try,Thank You.




Hayseedboy said:


> Hey Johnny,
> 
> This might be a fun way to give it a try.  I know it works on Cast Iron anyway and there is a certain amount of danger that could make it fun   Thinkin' about having my 13 year old use it for a science experiment.
> 
> ...


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## Paul in OKC (Nov 30, 2008)

Another vote for evap-o-rust here as well. If it is what I have used on some shafts, it is excellent stuff.


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## woodboys (Nov 30, 2008)

Firefyter-emt is the one who owns the site I was refering to. You might ask him about restoring your equipment.


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## Hayseedboy (Nov 30, 2008)

*Arm & Hamburger*

Hey Johnny,

I have seen "after" pics of dutch ovens that prove it works. Just haven't taken the time yet. Gotta believe if it works on cast iron and leaves it clean that it would take rust off of anything. 

Check the before and after pics on the lower right hand corner of the main page at http://www.idos.com/.

If you go this route please post pics.

LR



johnnycnc said:


> Thanks, Larry
> You know me,if there is a certain danger,then yes,it is fun!
> I bet your 13 year old would enjoy it, man did you see the foamy
> rust scum in that guys photos!!:biggrin:
> Seriously,this is on my list of things to try,Thank You.


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## Dan_F (Nov 30, 2008)

John---No hints, but glad to see you are on your way to getting the shop set up. I was just thinking about you the other night, wondering how things were going. 

Dan


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## Firefyter-emt (Nov 30, 2008)

Hey ya Johnny, that is some nasty rust you have going there!  

I was surprised that the post went on for so long without anyone pointing out that the electrolysis web page was my site.  (You guys would be shocked if you knew how many people and how far that page as traveled the world)

You might want to pick up a cement mixing tray if you plan to do larger tops and parts.  The 5 gallon bucket is prefect for those small parts you want to do and not have to go thru all the problems of setting up a tank.

WD-40 and a razor blade can scrape rust off pretty good too.  The nice thing about the electrolysis system is that it will remove ALL rust and convert it in to some oxide or another, I forget which.  This means that rusted bolts will even come free!  The down side with cast, is it can tend to re-rust due to the texture of the metal. However, a good metal prep solvent can kill this. (Or better yet, a quick hit with a sandblaster which is my favorite.)

Like others have said, if you need help... just ask, it's right up my alley!  Plus, I owe you one.


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## Mudder (Dec 1, 2008)

Dario said:


> Try evapo-rust.  It works like a charm.
> 
> http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html
> 
> BTW, you can find/buy them at Home Depot or Lowe's




A third vote for Evapo-rust. Believe it or not I found it in Harbor freight of all places.


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## johnnycnc (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks for all the replies,

Dan,Hi.. thanks for the nod!

Lee,I had no idea that was your website page! you should sign it somehow.
nice page with good info,I'll give a shout if I get stumped, I know this is your
field of knowledge, for sure.

Scott,thanks for the vote on Evapo-Rust,
I have a 2 gallon kit ordered so will see how it works.

I appreciate everyone's time in replying,
and I'll get some pictures posted when I get results!


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## CHICAGOHAND (Dec 1, 2008)

I am glad to see you making progress my friend, I wont mention the "B" word, although I would like to try some new kits as soon as I can find some money.
Again it is nice to see you back.


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## cozee (Dec 2, 2008)

A wealth of knowledge in restoring wood working equipment can be found here . . . OWWM 

Several of the members there have restored equipment that has had rust on it for years and even decades. There has been a multitude of restoration methods used including what has been mentioned here.


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## oldcaptainrusty (Dec 2, 2008)

*Another recommendation*

Johnny I have used this stuff for a while now. I live in Florida close enough to the salt water to have a problem with all my equipment (my shop is on my carport, 2 sides are open). It has worked real well for me as far as taking the rust off, and it seem to leave a protective coating that prevents further rust. Check out the web site.:good:
http://www.strongarmsprays.com/


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## Fred (Dec 2, 2008)

If you have a lot of smaller electrical tools to clean out, get a five gallon bucket and enough WD-40 to cover the tool(s). Hang them in the WD-40 and turn on the equipment. Be careful of any sling of the WD-40, remove any blades, etc. prior to turning them on. Let the tool run for a few minutes and then turn it off. Remove and let it drain the surplus WD-40 back into the bucket. This method really gets into the smallest places and removes the dirt, etc. :biggrin:

Before anyone says anything - the item IF KEPT UNDER the WD-40 will not cause a fire. Lift it to the top and look out as it might them have enough oxygen to actually catch on fire. I have run many motors in this setup and never had the first problem with anything that might make the local fireman uncomfortable. 

WH-40 is reasonably priced at the big home improvement stores and often a little cheaper at Harbor Freight. Look for their coupon and apply it if they will let you. Just get the gallon size and give it a shot.

BTW - WD-40 stands for Water Displacement Formula 40. The first 39 didn't work so well for the space industry. This stuff also makes for a wonderful greasy hand cleaner and has 1000's of other uses as well. Look it up on Google ... :wink:


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## johnnycnc (Dec 2, 2008)

Hi Dave,
Thanks,it's good to be making progress.
that B word!
Ah,you just never know.:wink:
Later,my friend.



CHICAGOHAND said:


> I am glad to see you making progress my friend, I wont mention the "B" word, although I would like to try some new kits as soon as I can find some money.
> Again it is nice to see you back.


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## johnnycnc (Dec 2, 2008)

Greg, thanks for the link,wow I never saw that one before!

Robert,thanks for the link,looks interesting.With the salt air you have
the product has to be good.

Fred,thank you for the info and idea.


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