# Snakewood Cracking



## Randy_ (Jun 19, 2008)

Here are some interesting comments on the cause of Snakewood cracking and what to do about it.....applies to Ebony as well Don't know if the explanation is correct or not; but it is certainly worth thinking about.

The comments were made on the Yahoo Penturning forum. Sometimes there are difficulties linking to Yahoo posts so if the direct link doesn't work for you; just go to the Yahoo forum and look for post # 95099.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/penturners/message/95099


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## BrentK (Jun 19, 2008)

Nice read. Thanks for finding and sharing that here Randy.


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## Ligget (Jun 19, 2008)

Makes a lot of sense, thanks Randy!


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## Rifleman1776 (Jun 19, 2008)

I'm happy for him if it works for him. But, much Snakewood and Ebony cracking can come weeks, or months, after the fact. His theory just doesn't hold up.  And, old, well aged ebony works just fine without water or other voodoo tricks. The problem with ebony today is that it is shipped immediately after cutting. It is sealed with wax and just doesn't have time to dry. Based on so many failures with Snakewood, I have worked it and don't plan to.


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## Randy_ (Jun 19, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Rifleman1776_
> 
> I'm happy for him if it works for him. But, much Snakewood and Ebony cracking can come weeks, or months, after the fact. His theory just doesn't hold up.  *And, old, well aged ebony works just fine *without water or other voodoo tricks. The problem with ebony today is that it is shipped immediately after cutting. It is sealed with wax and just doesn't have time to dry. Based on so many failures with Snakewood, I have worked it and don't plan to.



I have never worked with either of these woods (but surely would like to) so I have no opinion on the cause of the cracking problem or the solution; but I do recall seeing some posts here and elsewhere by folks who used well seasoned wood (or at least so they claimed) and still had cracking problems.  Apparently there is more to the problem than just waiting long enough for the wood to dry out.


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## Rmartin (Jun 19, 2008)

My solution is to let it crack. Drill it, let it crack. Glue in tube, let it crack. Turn round, let it crack. Wait....wait....and wait some more, then turn to size and seal any crack with CA while applying CA finish imediately.


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## Paul Downes (Jun 20, 2008)

I have posted the same thing here a few times. I noticed that when I drilled snakewood with an alsmost constant water stream that they were a lot less prone to cracking. You have to be carefull to back out the drill frequently. I also think that some woods pack the drill flute tight enough to cause fractures due to 'hydrolic' pressure. It's not really hydrolic pressure but you get the idea. Heat is almost always an enemy when working with materials. Also worth mentioning is that when you use water when drilling snakewood the sawdust comes out easily and looks like mud.


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## Ligget (Jun 20, 2008)

I am going to try wet drilling the Snakewood, if I drill on the lathe and put a large platic tub or basin on my DVR lathe bed below blank to catch all the water.

Should not be toooooooooooooooo messy!


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## Randy_ (Jun 20, 2008)

After some additional reading, it seems some folks have had success with boiling the blanks.


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## Rifleman1776 (Jun 20, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Randy__
> 
> After some additional reading, it seems some folks have had success with boiling the blanks.



If it makes a nice tea then you have found a good use for it.


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## RONB (Jun 20, 2008)

Great post.I'm willing to try Snake Wood again.


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## gwilki (Jun 20, 2008)

I've done 4 snake wood pens. All have been in pockets for almost a year now and none of cracked. (I just know that I'm tempting fate by saying that.) I wet drilled all of them with a mixture of water, alcohol and dish soap. I found the alcohol helped things dry faster and the dish soap made things a bit slipperier. I'm sure others do what I do and the blank cracks anyway. Since no two blanks are alike, I think that goes with ther territory.


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## Texatdurango (Jun 20, 2008)

After reading all the horror stories about snakewood over the past year I decided to stay away from it but then got to noticing that some people were making nice pens without the cracking so thought I'd give it a shot.

A few weeks ago I had Nolan throw in one blank in with an order and I turned it and so far there has been no problem.  

One common denominator I always hear is HEAT so I took my time drilling it.  It probably took me an hour or more for each section because I would leave the blank chucked in the lathe, drill a little, often as little as 1/8", back out the bit thus never giving it a chance to heat up, let alone having to cool down.

I was working on some small items on my other lathe so every few minutes I would reach over and drill a bit then leave it alone for a while.  Since HEAT seems to be the enemy, if one has the patience to drill without introducing any heat into the blank to begin with, their odds of having a crack free blank will probably be good.

When I hear of those wanting to cool with water, etc, it only makes me think they are in too big of a hurry and still looking for a quick fix... and will probably continue to have problems.  The way I see it, if you have to COOL DOWN the blank and drill bit, you have already gotten it too hot and have probably already lost the battle.


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## Paul Downes (Jun 21, 2008)

I think that because snakewood is so resinous it doesn't bother it to use water when drilling. I do generate plenty of heat when sanding it out to 12000 mm, and I think this dries out the blank plenty. Most of the failures i have experianced was either forgetting to use a good backer board when drilling or when end milling the blanks. i have swiched to sanding the blanks to square them up by reversing the pen mill and useing the flat backside with a small sanding disk I cut out of a sticky random orbit sanding disk with the holes in it. (so it fits over the pilot.) I've only had one pen develope cracks after about a year but it was one that I drilled before I swiched to the water bath.


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## Stephen (Jun 21, 2008)

I accelerate/maintain the cooling process with ice water. Works well for me in the tropics. No thermal shocks to the drill bit or blank if done thru out the drilling operation. Just my experiment that works well for me.


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## Stephen (Jun 21, 2008)

Ooops . I have done only on Dymondwood and Acrylics. Sorry no experience on snakewood etc.


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## Darley (Jun 21, 2008)

well this pen got a crack and on top of all is croocked @ US$ 500 the pop[:0], you guys can sell one for more 

http://tinyurl.com/4y44cj


Will have to try some snake wood one day, any idea where to get blanks?


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## mdburn_em (Jun 22, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Darley_
> 
> Will have to try some snake wood one day, any idea where to get blanks?



I would try many of the vendors on this site.  I can think of two off the top of my head that I know sell it.


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## Darley (Jun 22, 2008)

> _Originally posted by mdburn_em_
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks, any name?


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## keithkarl2007 (Jun 22, 2008)

Good thing its got paypal buyers protection as the winning bidder is gonna be very dissapointed





> _Originally posted by Darley_
> 
> well this pen got a crack and on top of all is croocked @ US$ 500 the pop[:0], you guys can sell one for more
> 
> ...


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## altaciii (Jun 22, 2008)

I have found that with the larger barrel pens the best way is not to drill.  I bore my blanks on the lathe, scraping out the inside diameter. No heat buildup, no cracks.  I love the look of the wood and have done many and have yet to have a customer complain or one returned.  (knock on wood)


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## RussFairfield (Jun 22, 2008)

My latest experience with Snakewood has convinced me that, given enough time, 100% of all Snakewood pens will crack. If you think you have it whipped, you just haven't waited long enough.  

This latest one waited 4 years, but it took a trip to CA to make it crack. It was fine when I put it in the box here in ID. It was cracked when it was delivered in California 3 days later.


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