# CA/BLO Questions



## Fatdawg (Aug 8, 2011)

I've been wanting to try my hand at CA/BLO finish on a few pens. I read and printed the articles in the library on CA/BLO and have all the supplies outlined. However I'm not 100% sure I understand it all and have a couple questions. I'm I correct that you apply BLO over the first coat of CA/BLO that you applied to the bare wood, then apply a coat of CA on top of the second coat of BLO and so on? If this is the case what purpose does the BLO serve on top of the CA? Just curious and I may be over looking the obvious.


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## JimB (Aug 8, 2011)

The BLO can serve more than one purpose. Some folks put on a coat of blo before the ca to help 'pop' the grain of the wood. Other people use blo after the ca. in this case the blo will act as an accelerator and help cure the ca and it may help to get the ca smoother.

Of course some people don't use BLO at all. Some use excelerator, some don't. There are also many different applicators used.

Trial and error will tell you what will work for you. Pick a  method and jump in a give it a try.


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## Whaler (Aug 8, 2011)

Fatdawg said:


> I've been wanting to try my hand at CA/BLO finish on a few pens. I read and printed the articles in the library on CA/BLO and have all the supplies outlined. However I'm not 100% sure I understand it all and have a couple questions. I'm I correct that you apply BLO over the first coat of CA/BLO that you applied to the bare wood, then apply a coat of CA on top of the second coat of BLO and so on? If this is the case what purpose does the BLO serve on top of the CA? Just curious and I may be over looking the obvious.



Here is a very good tutorial. It is the system that I use and it works well for me.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc


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## Dan26 (Aug 8, 2011)

Fred, as of now there are 10,783 members so be ready to get a bunch of different methods. When I first started doing the CA/BLO finish I put two drops of BLO on the paper towel and about five drops of CA on top of the BLO then ran the lathe at the slowest speed and applied the BLO/CA to the wood. I do it totally different now. No BLO and apply it without running the lathe. Takes longer but I like the finish. The benefit for me is I don't have to stand over the CA as it cures. The fumes were starting to bother me. That's me two pennies.


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## Atherton Pens (Aug 8, 2011)

I use a variation to the "William Young Method" shown in the following youtube link...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

I think it is easier to watch this than try to explain the process.

Good Luck.

It has been said there are 500 ways to get a successful CA finish.... and then there's the way I do it.


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## Drstrangefart (Aug 8, 2011)

I don't use and BLO at all. Just straight CA. I do use accelerator, however.


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## Brandon Nichols (Aug 8, 2011)

I use a coat of BLO after I finish sanding. Then medium CA and excelerator. Works for me.


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## jimship15 (Aug 8, 2011)

*Finish*

I usually start with a small puddle of thin CA on a piece of wax paper and put a drop or two of BLO on it. Cover the lathe bed with a plastic grocery sack and turn on the lathe(remember to turn off your dust collector before letting go of the grocery sack). Run the wax paper back and forth untill blanks are covered then switch to a piece of paper towel wet with CA. Keep moving and adding CA. I wear nitrile gloves to save my fingers and run a fan to keep the fumes from burning my lungs and melting my eyeballs shut. 

It takes some trial and error, nice finish, works good for me


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## its_virgil (Aug 8, 2011)

Use boileed linseed oil with each application of CA glue. Use the oil before the CA glue or use it on top of the CA glue...works fine for me either way. Sometimes I do both on the same pen. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## jbswearingen (Aug 9, 2011)

I don't use BLO, just straight medium CA and accelerator.

After seeing some of the others' works here, though, I'll start applying a drop of BLO to the blank BEFORE the first coat of CA.

I learned to do my CA application from this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8wdHFrVadY&feature=related



The only thing I do differently is to apply the drops of CA to the paper towel.  This way, none of it gets flung.  Works great for me.


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## lukcon (Aug 9, 2011)

I use the BLO and CA medium as described in the William Young video and it works great. A quart of BLO is 6.80 and will last for years, 2oz accelerator is about 6.00. For me there is no difference in the finish for gloss or hardness the cost factor is my choice. Over 300 pens made and not a single one returned so I will never change. Just my 2cts. worth.

Lukcon


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## jbswearingen (Aug 9, 2011)

lukcon said:


> I use the BLO and CA medium as described in the William Young video and it works great. A quart of BLO is 6.80 and will last for years, 2oz accelerator is about 6.00. For me there is no difference in the finish for gloss or hardness the cost factor is my choice. Over 300 pens made and not a single one returned so I will never change. Just my 2cts. worth.
> 
> Lukcon




You're paying WAY too much for accelerator.  I've been ordering from this guy for a while.  He's very quick and friendly.


http://woodenwonderstx.com/ZC_WoodenWonders/


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## leehljp (Aug 9, 2011)

If you are just starting with CA finishing, BLO is just an extra step and can add to confusion in the learning process. Many people see the "CA" and then "CA/BLO" and assume that the BLO will give better results. It "may" - only under certain conditions and experience. Since it "may," only under certain conditions and experience, it makes far more logical sense to start with the simple and move up. 

CA is difficult enough for many just starting, but add the BLO and the extra step, trying to figure out a problem becomes two fold.

• Don't use BLO directly on oily woods;

• BLO helps as a mild accelerant as mentioned and this is helpful in cooler weather when CA is slower to set/cure but not as helpful in hotter weather when CA sets fast. (Humidity also affects the speed of set up of CA.)

•BLO, as mentioned - when applied directly to wood - does bring out the features of some wood but changes the color on woods like holly to ivory color or bloodwood to a slight orangish red. Care must be taken on these woods to not sand through the CA and let the BLO get on the sanded-through spot as it will change the color at that spot only.


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## gingerwood (Aug 9, 2011)

I just want to chime in that the same method may give you different results depending on the weather and probably the phase of the moon.  I can't get a decent result to save my life when the humidity is high, but today (dp 56, temp 72) it came out absolutely perfect.


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## ctubbs (Aug 9, 2011)

If you do a search on CA or CA/BLO, you should find enough reading to kep you busy and completely confused till you are old and gray.  You will find mention of all types of arcane tips, yellow socks, stand on left/right foot, singing some off beat some, chanting some ancient mystical chant, all of which help from time to time.
In short, a great CA or CA/Blo finish is hit or miss.  GRab some wood, turn it to round and practice till you fine something that works for you then remember how you did it.  At that point you become the Master and are allowed to share with the rest of us your new find.  The practice wood does not need a tube in it if you are turning on a mandrel, just drill the 1/4" hole to fit the mandrel and turn away.
Charles


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## leehljp (Aug 9, 2011)

I am adding a second reply.

Charles said:


> "GRab some wood, turn it to round and practice till you fine something that works for you then remember how you did it."



This is the best way. One day, I decided I was not going to make a pen, but rather turn blanks (soft pine) down and practiced, practiced and practiced with CA. I did it another day too. 

Then I learned how to do a finish under the conditions that Gingerwood mentioned:


> . . .  the same method may give you different results depending on the weather



Hot weather, hot humid, hot dry, cool weather dry and cool weather humid all cause variances. And if you buy CA in bulk, 6 month old works great for most but causes problems for a few. Temp, humidity level and age of CA all affect the outcome differently. 

Your experience and the results you get in the area that you live will be different from someone in a different climate and location. There is no "one set way" that will work the exactly same everywhere all the time.


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## gingerwood (Aug 10, 2011)

leehljp said:


> Then I learned how to do a finish under the conditions that Gingerwood mentioned:
> 
> 
> > . . .  the same method may give you different results depending on the weather



If you have tips for working CA under humid conditions, I'd love to hear them.


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