# Minwax Wipe on poly



## wizical (Sep 4, 2008)

Hey everyone, 

ive been reading about Minwax Wipe On Poly for use on the pens and ive seen some really great results of the poly on here.  Now my question is ease of application, durability and how many coats do some of you apply to your pens? 

ive read through the archives but nothing really answered my questions.  If anyone can give me a straight answer, that would be greatly appreciated.  thanks


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## gwilki (Sep 4, 2008)

I've not used the Minwax product, but I use water-based poly on many of my pens. I generally do three dip coats, sanding with 400 grit between coats. To date, I've not had a pen come back with this finish, but the longest in service so far is about 8 months.


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## marcruby (Sep 4, 2008)

I use it on cabinets and tables and it's great stuff.  Of course, you don't exactly carry a cabinet around in your pocket and write with it...


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## Mack C. (Sep 5, 2008)

wizical said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> ive been reading about Minwax Wipe On Poly for use on the pens and ive seen some really great results of the poly on here. Now my question is ease of application, durability and how many coats do some of you apply to your pens?
> 
> ive read through the archives but nothing really answered my questions. If anyone can give me a straight answer, that would be greatly appreciated. thanks


Hi Keven; You might like to check out my post here.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36731

I have a writeup in "My Documents" file, but I don't know how to download it here.

If you are interested in more info: mackdotcameronatsympaticodotca. Substitute @ for at and . for dot.


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## redfishsc (Sep 6, 2008)

wizical said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> ive been reading about Minwax Wipe On Poly for use on the pens and ive seen some really great results of the poly on here.  Now my question is ease of application, durability and how many coats do some of you apply to your pens?
> 
> ive read through the archives but nothing really answered my questions.  If anyone can give me a straight answer, that would be greatly appreciated.  thanks




Here's the skinny on poly. I've used it a LOT on other woodworking items and I personally would not bother using it on pens, it dries WAY too slow. 

---very slow curing time--- several HOURS--- this can cause runs and drips to happen more easily. Also will collect dust and other junk because it sits there wet for so long. 


--- very durable-- it's a hard finish for sure. Nice sheen. 


--the Minwax "Wipe-On" and "Fast Drying" versions are a RIP OFF. While you get good results with it, it is STUPIDLY overpriced. ALL either one of them actually are is polyurethane with thinner added to it, and they charge the SAME PRICE as other, thicker, higher solids poly. For a pen you'll probably want a thicker poly since it won't run as easily. I've used a LOT of Minwax over the last few years and I can tell you that there are many better products out there.


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## rd_ab_penman (Sep 7, 2008)

wizical said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> ive been reading about Minwax Wipe On Poly for use on the pens and ive seen some really great results of the poly on here.  Now my question is ease of application, durability and how many coats do some of you apply to your pens?
> 
> ive read through the archives but nothing really answered my questions.  If anyone can give me a straight answer, that would be greatly appreciated.  thanks



I have a Tutorial. How do you post a Tutorial on this forum?


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## jttheclockman (Sep 7, 2008)

Les

That would be great since you use it quite abit and from your photos your finish comes out great. Hope someone can help with the tutorial and maybe get it placed in the library too.


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## Leather Man (Sep 8, 2008)

Les,
Jeff or one of the moderators should be able to tell you how to post a tutorial, or even some one who has already posted one.
Ben


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## rjwolfe3 (Sep 8, 2008)

In the library there is a tuturial on how to make a tuturial, IIRC.  If not, I can convert a word document to pdf and send it to jeff to post for ya.


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## Sylvanite (Sep 8, 2008)

redfishsc said:


> ,,,the Minwax "Wipe-On" and "Fast Drying" versions are a RIP OFF...it is STUPIDLY overpriced. ...there are many better products out there.


Come on redfishsc, don't hold back.  Tell us how you really feel, lol.


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## Mack C. (Sep 8, 2008)

rd_ab_penman said:


> I have a Tutorial. How do you post a Tutorial on this forum?


I have used Les's tutorial in my pen finishing protocol, and I must say it works. In addition, you only have to look at Les's finished pens to know he's the man when it comes to finishing with Minwax Poly!

The only difference I use Q-Tips as the applicator, and have also used a small ½" brush which works superbly as well. The small 236 ml can of poly cost $7-$8 and I'm sure will do many, many pens.

As far as the time element of drying, I speed it up somewhat by directing a small fan towards the pens I am finishing. I will generally do 4 - 6 pens at a time.

Redfish mentions not wanting to use it because of the slow dry time. I can only wonder what's the hurry! If there is a time element involved in completing a pen for a customer, I will use CA.


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## stolicky (Sep 8, 2008)

jttheclockman said:


> Les
> 
> That would be great since you use it quite abit and from your photos your finish comes out great. Hope someone can help with the tutorial and maybe get it placed in the library too.



Ditto.  After seeing your finish I would really like to try it.  I can say that I have used the wipe-on poly on a couple of bowls and a few coats really add some depth!

I'm in a slump right now with CA finishes!


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## redfishsc (Sep 8, 2008)

mackc said:


> Redfish mentions not wanting to use it because of the slow dry time. I can only wonder what's the hurry! If there is a time element involved in completing a pen for a customer, I will use CA.



The real hurry with me is that I can spray my pens with catalyzed varnish (even standard lacquer will work) and the pen can be totally finished and assembled in less than 24 hours. With regular lacquer that may be stretching it -----but with the kind of stuff I use, I can assemble 5 hours after spraying if I need to (or if the REAL reason for the hurry--- namely my impatience--- is wearing thin).

That being said, I've had trouble using slow drying finishes because the long cure time can cause them to collect more dust than I want to deal with. The reason may be that I do my finishing in a production woodshop where there's dust a-plenty. Perhaps in situations where there aren't power tools at work, like a backyard/garage/basement pen shop,  the problem isn't so bad. That's EXACTLY where I would have my pen shop setup if I had such a place.


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## Mack C. (Sep 8, 2008)

redfishsc said:


> The real hurry with me is that I can spray my pens with catalyzed varnish (even standard lacquer will work) and the pen can be totally finished and assembled in less than 24 hours. With regular lacquer that may be stretching it -----but with the kind of stuff I use, I can assemble 5 hours after spraying if I need to (or if the REAL reason for the hurry---
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## TellicoTurning (Sep 9, 2008)

I use the w/o poly a lot on some of my turnings and the Watco Salad oil finish too... I've noticed that on some of the oily woods... bocote in particular, the w/o poly will take more than 24 hours to "dry"... it can be still sticky after a couple of days.


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## bitshird (Sep 9, 2008)

I used some Minwax superfast dry Poly which is a can I got to pre coat my office floor before we put tile down, to seal some Tulip Poplar today, I put it on pretty thick, and it dried outside in about 3-1/2 hours but I'm with Matt, I have too much dust, my shop is at the end of a gravel road.


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