# Closed End Pens Anyone??



## Fred (May 6, 2007)

Have any of you used these mandrels before to make a closed end pen?

http://arizonasilhouette.com/Closed_End_Pen_Mandrel.htm

If you use something else would you please share your method... I'm sure someone in the FORUM will definitely appreciate your thoughts on this style.


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## LanceD (May 6, 2007)

I have one of each model and even two of the Baron and Jr Statesman mandrels. About 80% of the pens I make are closed end and these mandrels make it a breeze to do them.


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## its_virgil (May 6, 2007)

I'll share a method using a regular mandrel and busing. No need to have a special mandrel for each tube size. But, those closed end mandrels and even the pin chucks are nice. But, this method works fine for me. Email me if you have any questions after reading the pdf file.
You can find it here: 
http://www.redriverpens.com/closed-end-alternative.pdf 

Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by Fred_erick_
> <br />Have any of you used these mandrels before to make a closed end pen?
> 
> http://arizonasilhouette.com/Closed_End_Pen_Mandrel.htm
> ...


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## toolcrazy (May 6, 2007)

> _Originally posted by its_virgil_
> <br />I'll share a method using a regular mandrel and busing. No need to have a special mandrel for each tube size. But, those closed end mandrels and even the pin chucks are nice. But, this method works fine for me. Email me if you have any questions after reading the pdf file.
> You can find it here:
> http://www.redriverpens.com/closed-end-alternative.pdf
> ...



AS has been out of the baron closed end mandrel set. I want to get one as soon as he gets them back in. Your method, I gonna have to try. Will hold me off till AS gets theirs back in.


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## KenV (May 6, 2007)

Rich K has done a couple of articles on closed end pens in Woodturning Design over the past year.  One with pin chucks is handy (Spring 2006).   I have compression chucks (Az Sil, Pen chucks, and modified threaded end on pen mandrel.  Don's illustration is another alternative.  A bit of tape around the bushing or around the live center and tail end of the blank can help to keep things from spinning, as this is a friction drive.  Light cuts and it should work well.

Download Ed Davidson's (YoYo Spin) video on the closed end cigar pen and get more good ideas.


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## Narwhale (May 6, 2007)

I've made 3 closed end bodies for el Grande FPs using a simple jamb chuck that was turned to give a friction fit on the inside of the brass sleeve.  Used the tailstock for support and turned body to desired shape leaving very slender stub for support from tailstock.  Get body all ready to apply finish, then cut stub off.  Sand stub area and finish entire body.  Trim front & install ,ib holder.
Rich S.


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## Fred (May 7, 2007)

Nice replys from you generous folks. Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us all ... []


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## RussFairfield (May 7, 2007)

If you have a collet chuck, you can turn the pen blanks to round between centers, hold them in the collet for drilling and gluing the tubes, and then turn the pen between centers. No special mandrels or pin chucks are necessary.


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## gerryr (May 7, 2007)

I have two of Fangar's pin chucks, Baron and Jr. Gent Version 2.  I talked with Mike Vickery some time back and got this idea from him.  If I'm making a closed end pen now, I make a jam chuck from a 3/4" poplar dowel.  I cut off a piece about 6" long and put it in my Beall collet chuck with about 4" sticking out.  I then turn it down so the tube will just barely fit.  I then turn a shoulder to about 0.020" larger than the bushing diameter, give the whole thing two coats of thin CA and sand it back down to the proper diameters.  I've made these for the cap and body for the El Toro/El Presidente, the Churchill and also a couple of special purpose ones.  These won't hold up as well as the ones BB sells over the long run, but they work for me.


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## RussFairfield (May 7, 2007)

All of these mandrels, whether purchased or home-made, work better if the blank is turned to round between centers before doing any drilling or turning. Getting rid of the interrupted cut before using a mandrel means that less pressure or force is required to turn the pen. Less force is always a good thing. 

Most of us would be surprized to see how little pressure is really required when the turning from square to round has been eliminated.


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## Texatdurango (May 7, 2007)

Don, Thanks for the idea and drawing, I'm going to give it a shot this afternoon.

It's refreshing to know that we CAN turn these pens without spending $100 every day on specialty tools.

Fred, I posted a photo (in Texatdurango's photos) of my one and only closed end pen I did two weeks ago using the mandrel from Arizona Supply.  I'll post another after making a pen today using Don's method and give my opinion if the "store bought" mandrel was worth $20 or not.

George


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## toolcrazy (May 7, 2007)

I tried the above method last night. While it works great, I think I still would rather buy the mandrel from MS. I will post my results when I finish the pen. [8D]


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## its_virgil (May 7, 2007)

each pen using this method seems to get easier as we learn to tweak the process. Also, Russ's method of turning berween centers also works. I too like to spend my money on kits and wood instead of tools, especially those that will not be used on every pen. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by toolcrazy_
> <br />I tried the above method last night. While it works great, I think I still would rather buy the mandrel from MS. I will post my results when I finish the pen. [8D]


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## tcmoog (May 8, 2007)

I have read all of the posts on this topic with great interest.  I haven't yet tried a closed end pen but am planning to.  The amount and quality of shared information continues to amaze me.  I really appreciate all of the tips and advice that is so freely shared.  Thanks to all for helping a relatively new pen turner improve his work.


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## RussFairfield (May 8, 2007)

The expanding mandrels and pin-chucks are a convenience, not a necessity, for making a closed-end pen, recessing the clip, or doing anything else to customize a kit pen. Dimensional accuracy, fit, and finish are all more important than how the wood was held in the lathe. 

Besides that, there are more options for using more kits and do more things to them when you don't use the mandrel.

My advice is not to buy a special mandrel to make A pen, or a couple pens. Turn a few pens between centers, with a standard mandrel, or make a mandrel from a stick of wood. If you like the pens, they sell well, and you want to make more of them, then is the time to think about buying that special mendrel.


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## gerryr (May 8, 2007)

Well said Russ.  One of the significant disadvantages with the pin chucks or expanding mandrels is that you are pretty much forced to use a full length tube when all you need is about 3/8-1/2".  I've also been fooling around with not using any tube on plastic closed end pens.


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## keapople (Nov 3, 2007)

BUmmer this is now a dead link...

http://www.redriverpens.com/closed-end-alternative.pdf 

Can I find it somewhere else, or can someone forward it to me?

Thanks
kirby


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## Rmartin (Nov 4, 2007)

Don's pdf file is not working for me. It says file not found on this server.

I made my first closed end without any special tools. Mainly because I didn't have any special tools. I made the jr gent II by pressing the end cap of the lower barrel into the brass tube. Then I glued this into the blank. Then I used a bunch of spacers on the mandrel. No knurled nut of course. The tail stock wwas brought up to bare wood. The spring inside the end cap actually helped.

I did buy a closed end for the Jr Gent II, but I haven't used it yet. I didn't realize I need a special chuck to hold it. Now I got to get one of those. I'm with Don; I prefer buying blanks and kits.

Rmartin


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## gerryr (Nov 4, 2007)

Russ has a tutorial in the Library, under Articles 2004, on making a closed end Euro fountain pen.  There is also a tutorial on the PMG site, http://penmakersguild.com/articles.htm by Rich Kleinhenz.  it's the 6th entry under articles.


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