# What paint for the brass tubes?



## Greg O'Sherwood (Dec 22, 2008)

I received some good advice here in response to my first turned pen, an acrylic. I was told that it would look better if the tube was painted since they show through when using acrylics.

I went out and bought some hobby spray paint for metals in various colors, but on a couple of my insertions, the tube stuck during my dry-run and I noticed that the paint had rubbed off also. 

I really prefer using the spray paint as I can put several tubes on a dowel an spray them all together. Is there anyone out there using a spray paint that adheres better to copper? I did sand the tubes before painting... Perhaps I should use a primer spray instead of a finish spray?

Thanks in advance!

Gregory of PaintProbs  Forest


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## BruceA (Dec 22, 2008)

*What glue are you using?*

Greg, 
Are you using CA glue?  That is likely going to cause the spray paint on the tubes to dissolve and smear. 

Try using two part clear epoxy as it doesn't seem to dissolve the paint like CA. 

Also - paint the inside of the BLANK, as this becomes the first barrier.  If you only paint the tube, even clear expoxy can show adhesion lines through a semi-transparent blank.


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## j_b_fischer (Dec 22, 2008)

*I'm repeating myself ... but that's OK*

Someone else asked a similar question a few months ago, here's what I said at the time ... hope you find this helpful.
-------------------
I was stubburn and insisted on learning how to paint on my own and didn't want to listen to others, so I spent 6 months trying a bunch of ideas on how to paint. If I had listened I could have saved some time ... but I would have had nearly as much fun. Here's what I learned:

- Paint both the tube and the inside of the blank.
- No paint will withstand CA glue ... don't bother to try.
- Almost any paint does well with epoxy.
- I like Testors model paint ... but that just me.
- Nail polish looks good, but dries too quickly and can clump ... you might want to thin it (but only a little, otherwise you loose the color).
- If you are using a thick paint (like fingernail polish), you might consider increasing the size of the drill bit a little.
- An airbrush worked well for the tube, but I couldn't figure out how to airbrush the inside of the blank (at least, not reliably).

I noticed in the [other] thread there was advice to match the paint to the acrylic blank ... well, I find using different or contrasting colors is another way to make your pens unique.

Good luck and have fun!


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## leehljp (Dec 22, 2008)

I used to have trouble no matter if I used lacquer, poly or water based paints. THEN I started spraying them and letting them cure for at least 24 but usually 48 hours. If the paint can says 12 hours, then wait 48 because of the possible interaction with the glues used.

If the paint can says 1 to 2 hours, I wait at least 24 hours. The paint can's instructions for drying are based on the fact that it will be touched or used in a normal situation. Forced into tubes, interaction with heat/chemical reactions of glues requires much longer time of curing than is written on the can.

You might get lucky and some are, however for the rest of us - caution and patience is needed.


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## j_b_fischer (Dec 22, 2008)

You'll find that the CA will make the paint (at least the kind I tested) smear.  It stays in the blank, of course, but it exposes the brass tube.  Sometimes I noticed that the tube wasn't exposed, but the paint ... sort of 'curdled' (looked all wrinkly).  Actually, it made for an interesting design, but it isn't reliable and isn't consist throughout the pen.

Whichever glue/paint you decide to use, consider painting both the tube and the inside of the blank.  This not only lets you do two (thinner) layers of paint (for better coverage), it put a layer of paint on top of the glue, which helps hide any bubbles that might be there.


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## OKLAHOMAN (Dec 22, 2008)

I've used spray paint from Lowes,Wally world,Rustoluem,ect. All will work if you paint the tube, inside the blank and DO NOT USE CA. Use epoxy. Now the secret is to mix the epoxy then tint it with the spray paint. I've done dozens of clear PR  cactus blanks painted black with no trace of glue or tube. Thats my way and it works for me.


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## j_b_fischer (Dec 22, 2008)

OKLAHOMAN said:


> I've used spray paint from Lowes,Wally world,Rustoluem,ect. All will work if you paint the tube, inside the blank and DO NOT USE CA. Use epoxy. Now the secret is to mix the epoxy then tint it with the spray paint. I've done dozens of clear PR cactus blanks painted black with no trace of glue or tube. Thats my way and it works for me.


 
Mixing paint in with the epoxy ... that's a good tip - Thanks.


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## el_d (Dec 22, 2008)

I use spray paint and sumo glue. May try tinting the sumo, hopefully will leave an interesting pattern....


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## Nick (Dec 23, 2008)

I have used powder coating colors to tint both Sumo and 5 min epoxy


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## Gordon (Dec 23, 2008)

Anybody had good/bad experience using gorilla glue ?


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## Rudy Vey (Dec 23, 2008)

Testors model paint, I use 5 min epoxy glue and sometimes add the paint to the glue as well. I paint the tubes and the inside of the blank.


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## evanslmtd (Dec 23, 2008)

Gordon
I use Gorilla Glue in most cases. IMO, it does a better job than the CA glue. However, the down side is that it takes much longer to kick off. I usually give it at least 4 hours to set up, and in some cases let it cure overnight.


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## j_b_fischer (Dec 23, 2008)

evanslmtd said:


> Gordon
> I use Gorilla Glue in most cases. IMO, it does a better job than the CA glue. However, the down side is that it takes much longer to kick off. I usually give it at least 4 hours to set up, and in some cases let it cure overnight.


 
I can see where Gorilla glue would be a good glue for wood or opaque acrylic, but for a translucent or transparent blank, wouldn't the color of the glue get in the way?


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## VisExp (Dec 23, 2008)

Gordon said:


> Anybody had good/bad experience using gorilla glue ?



Gorrila glue, sumo glue and titebond polyurethane glue are all basically the same glue.  They are all polyurethane glues.

I paint the inside of the blank using a q-tip and allow it to dry overnight.  Then I apply the polyurethane glue to the inside of the blank.  I seal the ends of the tube with wax, dip them in water and then insert them in the blank.  Then I clamp them the tube in the blank so the expansion of the glue does not force the tube out.

Polyurethane glues require moisture in order to cure.  I dip the tubes in water as I figure there is not much moisture in PR or brass   If you don't do that you are just relying on the moisture in the air.

I have not made any pens using clear acrylic.


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## sbell111 (Dec 23, 2008)

leehljp said:


> I used to have trouble no matter if I used lacquer, poly or water based paints. THEN I started spraying them and letting them cure for at least 24 but usually 48 hours. If the paint can says 12 hours, then wait 48 because of the possible interaction with the glues used.
> 
> If the paint can says 1 to 2 hours, I wait at least 24 hours. The paint can's instructions for drying are based on the fact that it will be touched or used in a normal situation. Forced into tubes, interaction with heat/chemical reactions of glues requires much longer time of curing than is written on the can.
> 
> You might get lucky and some are, however for the rest of us - caution and patience is needed.


I agree completely.

I spray the roughed up tubes with whatever spray paint that I happened to have (typically krylon or rustoleum) and let them dry for aat least a day, preferably two.  Once the paint is well cured, it isn't negatively affected by the CA.  I do have to be careful when I paint to make sure that there is no drippiness on teh tubes as these thick spots will get scraped by the tight fitting tubes, leading to bare spots.


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## jkeithrussell (Dec 23, 2008)

I've also learned the hard way not to use too dark of a color of paint or it will cover up some of the translucent qualities of the blanks.  Also, sometimes a brass tube looks better than paint -- for example, a copper or gold colored acrylic blank may turn out just fine without using paint whereas painting the tubes black or white could basically ruin the blank.  

You just have to experiment and see what you like.  I've found that mixing a very tiny amount of Pearl-Ex with 60-minute epoxy allows you to work the color until you get something that covers up the tube but is neutral against the blank.  Paint works the same way as Pearl-Ex, but depending on the type of paint that you use, it might start to dry too fast.


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## devowoodworking (Dec 23, 2008)

OKLAHOMAN said:


> I've used spray paint from Lowes,Wally world,Rustoluem,ect. All will work if you paint the tube, inside the blank and DO NOT USE CA. Use epoxy. Now the secret is to mix the epoxy then tint it with the spray paint. I've done dozens of clear PR cactus blanks painted black with no trace of glue or tube. Thats my way and it works for me.


 
Roy, I have one of your clear cactus blanks(thanks again:wink do you recommend a flat or gloss black paint?


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## OKLAHOMAN (Dec 23, 2008)

John, Gloss for sure, if you can find appliance black that has worked best for me. I'm still puzzeled by the puzzels,( inside remark ).





devowoodworking said:


> Roy, I have one of your clear cactus blanks(thanks again:wink do you recommend a flat or gloss black paint?


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## follow3 (Dec 23, 2008)

I use 2 methods and both seem to work well for me:

1. Powder coat the tubes. This works very well, but it is a lot more work and takes more time. But if you are making a really high end pen, it is worth it. Also, drill the hole slightly larger and use epoxy for this method.

2. I use a little paint to tint 5 minute epoxy and it works very well.

I also agree with Keith Russel, you have to be carefull what color you use with your blanks. The color under some acrylics can totaly change the color appearance of the blank...But... you can also use that to your advantage. I recently needed an orange blank for a Ten. Vols. pen and used a yellow blank and powder coated the tube red and it turned out awesome.

Steve


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## BruceA (Dec 31, 2008)

*Question for VisExp/Keith on applying glue to blanks*

Keith/VisExp, 
Noted your helpful comments above about applying polyeurethane glues (sumo, gorilla,...) by dipping your brass tubes in water prior to insertion in the blank.

I understand about plugging both ends of the tube and sliding into the blank, but *help me visualize how you are getting the glue on the inside of the blank in a way that there is consistent coverage*??

I glued up a few acrylic blanks today, but plug only one end of the tube, apply the glue to the TUBE, spread the glue evenly with a small brush, dipped the BLANK in water, and inserted/twisted the tube into the blank using a delrin insertion tool.  So one end is open.

Also, I found a new type of Gorilla glue at Lowes that dries WHITE, (called "Fast Cure Dries White") instead of the standard tannish color.   I used this on the acrylic blanks that I had painted both brass and blanks with using white acrylic paint.  I am hoping this will be a solution rather than using clear epoxy for white tubes/white painted blanks.


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## coach (Dec 31, 2008)

Great idea on the Vols pen!  Quite imaginative! 



follow3 said:


> I use 2 methods and both seem to work well for me:
> 
> 1. Powder coat the tubes. This works very well, but it is a lot more work and takes more time. But if you are making a really high end pen, it is worth it. Also, drill the hole slightly larger and use epoxy for this method.
> 
> ...


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