# How the $*%! do I remove the mandrel



## edstreet (Nov 19, 2007)

I bought a #1 mandrel for my wilton lathe and I was going to buy the adjustable mandrel to replace it but I can not remove it, it's stuck on the shaft, threaded.  It is stuck on there.  The mandrel head is perfectly fine but the shaft sometimes is to long (hence the adjustable one).  Any ideas on this?

Ed


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## maxwell_smart007 (Nov 19, 2007)

try a little rap on the top - sometimes that will help get it loose...

Another thing that might work - if you have a halogen lamp, bring it up close and let it heat up the metal a little bit...since metals react differently to heat, that might help loosen it up a bit too - just enough to get that wrench started! 


Good luck! 

Andrew


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## bradh (Nov 19, 2007)

The headstock should be hollow, I have a similar lathe and mine is. Place a long pin in there and hit the pin with a hammer.
  I use a drill bit extension for a suitable pin. I keep it and a wood mallet hung on the side of my lathe bench.


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## maxwell_smart007 (Nov 19, 2007)

I think he has the threaded-on mandrel from PSI...drawbar wouldn't knock it out, I wouldn't think...


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 19, 2007)

> _Originally posted by maxwell_smart007_
> <br />I think he has the threaded-on mandrel from PSI...drawbar wouldn't knock it out, I wouldn't think...



Standard mandrels will knock out OK. The 'pro', or adjustable ones give a smaller 'target' with the mandrel. I made a larger knock out bar from some hard plastic I had laying around but a wood dowel should work just fine.


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## maxwell_smart007 (Nov 19, 2007)

ah, stupid me - i was thinking of the bottle stopper mandrel....

My whole existence has been making bottle stoppers for this past show...nice to be able to think about other things for a change! 

Andrew


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## Randy_ (Nov 19, 2007)

> _Originally posted by maxwell_smart007_
> <br />ah, stupid me - i was thinking of the bottle stopper mandrel....



Andrew: Don't be too quick to beat yourself up.  The original post is not very clear; but I do think the guy might be using the PSI Screw-ON pen mandrel.  If so, the previous suggestion of some heat is a good one.  Since I don't believe the Wilton has a handwheel on the  spindle it may take the use of a wrench or two to get the mandrel off.  Many (maybe most) wood lathes come with a tommy bar and a spindle drilled with a couple of blind holes to assist with the removal of balky attachments.  The knockout rod sometimes substitutes for a tommy bar.  Stick the tommy bar or knockout rod in one of the blind spindle holes to keep it from turning and grasp the mandrel with your hand or a wrench and unscrew the mandrel.  Don't forget it needs to go counterclockwise.  If your spindle is not drilled, you will need to use two wrenches.....one on the spindle and one on the mandrel.

A word of warning......the fit between the blind hole and the rod that fits it is often not good.  You need to be careful when unscrewing accessories as the rod can slip out of the hole and hurt you or bugger up the hole to the point where it may be useless.  If you have to use a lot of force, be careful.  Also, a lot of force should not be necessary unless you have had a catch and really jammed an accessory on the spindle.  I have cut a little "washer" out of the top of a butter tub that slips over the spindle before an accessory is screwed on and this helps reduce the possibility of an accessory jamming on the spindle.

Good luck!!


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## edstreet (Nov 19, 2007)

you are indeed correct. I have the screw on #1 3/4" x 16tpi screw mandrel from PSI. I was looking at the adjustable one from craftusa.

I have tried a mallet to no use.  The option I am considering is to get just the shaft and leave the head in place.  I will try the heat and see how that works.

Ed


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## rhahnfl (Nov 19, 2007)

I've used oil of wintergreen as a penatrasting oil with some success. It can seep in and loosen it up a bit. Also, warming it up a bit sometimes helps. The metal that is.. not the oil.


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## GaryMGg (Nov 20, 2007)

Kroil. http://www.kanolabs.com/ -- probably the best lubricants on the planet


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## edstreet (Dec 7, 2007)

OK! I finally managed to remove it.  I had to 'upgrade' the tools I was using.  I went from the 'please come off' to the 'get the $%^& off, NOW' tools.  Guess this would be a good lesson for the if it doesn't fit your not using a large enough hammer school.

Ed


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## airrat (Dec 7, 2007)

Ed if the mandrel butted up against part of the lathe's head, get a washer (some type of plastic that wont stick) and put it between them when you tighten it down.  It will help with the binding.


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## maxwell_smart007 (Dec 7, 2007)

Wow, almost a month to get it off!  []


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## edstreet (Dec 7, 2007)

Maxwell, that's because it was one stubborn bastage.

Tom, that is a superb idea.

Now I need to locate a #1 MT dead center for the head 

Ed


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## Randy_ (Dec 7, 2007)

I've seen those washers advertised on various web sites for a buck of two; but you can do just as well at home if you have a pair of scissors with  fine blade.  You can cut your own washer out of the top from a butter tub or a Cool Whip container or any other container that has a soft plastic top.  I've been using one on my JET for years to keep my scroll chuck from getting jammed on the spindle.


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## Glass Scratcher (Dec 7, 2007)

> _Originally posted by edstreet_
> <br />Maxwell, that's because it was one stubborn bastage.
> 
> Tom, that is a superb idea.
> ...



Joe Collazo the owner of Turncrafts is going to carry #1MT centers and such.  Give him a yell.


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## mikec76 (Dec 14, 2007)

just goes to prove my dad was right... If it doesn't work the first time get a bigger hammer (=


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