# True oil as a pen finish?



## Katya (Apr 9, 2013)

I see that Lee Valley has a special on true oil, saying it's usually put on gun stocks.  Does anyone know if it would work as a pen finish?


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## Holz Mechaniker (Apr 9, 2013)

absolutely!  about 5 coats or more then buff it.


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## Katya (Apr 9, 2013)

Thanks, Drew!
Good to know.  Think I'll give it a try.  How long does it need to dry between coats?  Do you wipe it on, wipe off?
Catherine


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## dogcatcher (Apr 9, 2013)

On the first coat, let the Tru-Oil soak in real good, wet sand with your highest grit.  The wet sanding will help to fill in any pores.  The time frame between coats depends on temperature, humidity and how fresh the Tru-Oil is.  I usually wait at least 24 hours, we have low humidity and temps are either mild or HOT.  

For a good set of instructions look up Frank Whiton gunstock finish.  There are a couple of them on the Internet, in my opinion are worth reading even if you do not use an oil finish.


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## Holz Mechaniker (Apr 9, 2013)

dogcatcher said:


> On the first coat, let the Tru-Oil soak in real good, wet sand with your highest grit.  The wet sanding will help to fill in any pores.  The time frame between coats depends on temperature, humidity and how fresh the Tru-Oil is.  I usually wait at least 24 hours, we have low humidity and temps are either mild or HOT.
> 
> For a good set of instructions look up *Frank Whiton gunstock* finish.  There are a couple of them on the Internet, in my opinion are worth reading even if you do not use an oil finish.



Bingo it is how I do it.


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## Katya (Apr 11, 2013)

Great- thanks.  Just ordered some, will see how it goes once I get my hands on it.


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## KenV (Apr 11, 2013)

Not to step into the hot end of the debate -- but there are a couple of down sides to Tru Oil.  

It is amber -- and will give an amber tint to woods.  As a gunstock finish on walnut and dark woods, it is very compatible.  Be aware of the color if you are working with light colored woods.  I like it with rosewoods and cocobolo -- and other dense oily woods. 

It is easy to repair and easy to damage.   Like all oil finishes, it is fairly soft compared to lacquer or a CA finish.    

I use it or one of the other "stand oil" finishes on turnings, and use it with CA instead of Boiled Linseed oil.    Good tool for the finish collection, but not the best for all situations.


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## ghostrider (Apr 11, 2013)

Tru-Oil is a linseed oil based product so take the standard precautions for working with BLO and it's cleanup. 

I used some for a straight razor I did in Bolivian Rosewood a few years back and probably built it up too much. I was able to hand rub a nice luster to it,  but that quickly went away once I started getting it wet while shaving. 

The others on here probably have more experience with it than I do, but that's my $.02

Love the smell of it.


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## Scruffy (Apr 11, 2013)

*Alternative*

Agree with Ken about amber colored oils (BLO, Tung,..).  When I want to pop the grain in some woods and not change to color I use Mineral Oil from the drug section. It seems thinner and may take a couple coats and that extends dry-wait time.  But it does pop the grain and you can use finishes over it.

I like True Oil as a finish.

Alan


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## Whaler (Apr 11, 2013)

The best oil I have found for using CA is Walnut oil from here Home
No fire danger.


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