# Air Compressor Troubles



## Crashmph (Dec 23, 2012)

I really need some help with my Air Compressor.

I bought a Black Friday special and got a Husky 60 gallon air compressor model #VT6314.  The documents state that this unit runs on 2-pole 230V power and requires a 15A circuit.

I have it wired up to a two-pole 220v 20A outlet/breaker dedicated to this tool.  The wiring is 12 gauge wire size.

The AC will run for about 10 seconds and trip the breaker.  I have checked for grounds in the wiring and found none.  I have tried the outlet dedicated to my table say and lathe (same outlet type as the outlets for the tablesaw and lathe), but the AC trips those breakers as well.  

Per the manual, I have turned the pressure valve down to the lowest setting, still the same breaker trip.

I have even tried using the outlet to my Clearvue Cyclone.  It is a 30A 220v with 10 gauge wiring.  It trips that breaker as well.  Sometimes trips the limit switch on the motor itself, but most of the time the breaker trips first.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what to look at next?

Thanks,
Michael


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 23, 2012)

Does it have oil in it??  Will shut down on low oil.


----------



## wee willie (Dec 23, 2012)

what is the starting amperage and the running amperage? and as John said have you checked the oil level?


----------



## shippy (Dec 23, 2012)

Spin it by hand to be sure it's not mechanically bound up, if not, use an ohm meter and check for shorts to ground. Double check your wiring on the unit, including the motor, might be a multiple voltage motor.


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 23, 2012)

Oil... Check.  That is all good.  

I will have to get an amp/ohm meter, and then remember how to use the thing.  LOL.

I will check to manual movement tomorrow.


----------



## ctubbs (Dec 23, 2012)

Check to make sure you have the 2 hot wires to the correct terminals and the motor is wired for 240V.  Check the name plate on the motor for correct wiring and current draw. Does the compressor actually spin or is it locked up?  check that the motor is single phase and not 3 phase.
Charles


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 23, 2012)

Unit is under warrenty. Bring it back why mess with it??? Many things can be wrong as has been mentioned. If a dual voltage motor it could have been factory wired wrong. Plug the unit in and have the switch in off position. Does it trip the breaker?? If so then you have a ground somewhere. Open air tank before turning on. Should be no air. Could be misalignment thus stalling the motor. Is the belt on properly. See if you can spin by hand, make sure power is off or unplugged.  Take belt off compressor and try the motor. If that trips breaker you know it is somewhere from the motor back. Good luck.


----------



## PaulDoug (Dec 23, 2012)

I'd take it back, get another.  If the next one does the same, then you know it is your problem not theirs.


----------



## frank123 (Dec 23, 2012)

Try running it with the valve open to see if it trips without a load on it as well as with a load on it.

But assuming your circuit is good and doesn't have a problem, I'd suspect a defective compressor.  Don't tinker with it, you may void the warranty.


----------



## PTsideshow (Dec 23, 2012)

If you got it at Home Despot, take it back and shop somewhere else. As the local one had a rebuilt they were selling as new when I pointed it out to the manger he said tough sh*t, you aren't buying it. They will put problem big ticket tools back on the store sale floor that are returned.  According to one of the help there. The main office just gave me the run around phone tag when I called. They hope that the people buying the non working ones will follow thru with the factory warranty.
:clown:


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 23, 2012)

I may end up taking this thing back to HD.  It was a great deal at $300 as it was the floor model, and it was "Black Friday" weekend (bought it on Sunday).

Here are some pictures to go with what I have done to get this working.  I am not an electrician, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once...  I will  not be offended, so please anyone with the knowledge, please tell me what I am doing wrong here.

Here is a video of the motor getting turned on and then tripping the breaker after a few seconds. AC tripping breaker. - YouTube  You can even see the breaker trip in the upper right corner of the video.  Also, I removed the belt connecting the motor to the pump just to remove the pump from the equation.



Remote Breaker Panel for the AC.  For some reason this picture is turned sideways, but you can still see it for what is needed.


Motor Info... This is a bit of conflicting information.  The manual states that this unit will ONLY run on 240V, and there is sticker on the motor wiring cover that states 230V (you can see a little of this sticker in the next photo).


Wiring on the motor... Everything was wired up like this when I bought it, and I have verified that it looks like this in the manual too.


Switch Wiring Overhead view...  I know I have a conduit grommet on there for the wiring pass through; it was what I had laying around at the house.  If I can get this working, I will replace it with a proper wire grommet.  The screw on the left, just above the pressure release valve is the pressure adjustment screw for the switch.  Per the manual, this screw being set too high could cause the breaker to trip so I have it turned all the way down to the bottom at its lowest setting.


Another view to see the wiring a little more cleanly.


----------



## robersonjr (Dec 23, 2012)

Michael, looks to me like the lable says 120 volts, this may be your problem?


----------



## Monty (Dec 23, 2012)

Crashmph said:


> View attachment 86566
> Remote Breaker Panel for the AC.  For some reason this picture is turned sideways, but you can still see it for what is needed.


Been following your thread on this. Trace your wires coming into the remote breaker back to the main panel. Where is this white wire connected in the main panel?


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 23, 2012)

robersonjr said:


> Michael, looks to me like the lable says 120 volts, this may be your problem?


Agree that this could be an issue but then there is this on the Wiring Plate cover that states 230V Only





Monty said:


> Been following your thread on this. Trace your wires coming into the  remote breaker back to the main panel. Where is this white wire  connected in the main panel?



Here is what the Sub Panel in the garage looks like.  Some background on the this sub panel... It is a 100A panel fed from the main in the basement of the house.  I have dedicated runs to every outlet in the garage for the 220V outlets and only two outlets to each of the 20A 110V breakers.

I edited to photo to put labels to see what I am talking about... Remember, I am not an electrician, but I can follow instructions most of the time.
Each of my 220V two-poll runs use 12/2 wiring and the white wire has electrical tape every other inch or so to label it as HOT and not neutral.  The Dust Collector has a 30A breaker with 10/3 wire.  The AC is on the bottom right with 10/2 wire.  I was lazy and did not put black tape on there, will have that fixed later.

And here we can see the new not working next to the old still working AC.


----------



## PenMan1 (Dec 23, 2012)

Simple "black box" trouble shooting, remove the belt and see if just running the motor with no load trips the circuit. Do this AFTER you have verified (with meter) that you have 230V.

If the breaker still "kicks" you have a motor wiring problem. If not the problem is likely with the compressor head.


----------



## frank123 (Dec 23, 2012)

What kind of plug did the compressor come with?

120 and 240 should be using different plugs that won't plug into one another and the motor plate does seem to say it is a 110 motor on it.  I'd trust the motor id plate before I'd trust an instruction manual.


----------



## NewLondon88 (Dec 23, 2012)

I'd take it back.. (Campbell Hausfeld discontinued that motor)
That motor can be wired 120 or 240, but should be marked the way
it was wired. (not marked 120 and wired 240) so you're not really
sure what is going on yet. I wouldn't monkey with it


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 23, 2012)

PenMan1 said:


> Simple "black box" trouble shooting, remove the belt and see if just running the motor with no load trips the circuit. Do this AFTER you have verified (with meter) that you have 230V.
> 
> If the breaker still "kicks" you have a motor wiring problem. If not the problem is likely with the compressor head.


In the video linked in a previous post of this thread, I have the motor  running without the belt connecting it to the pump to remove the pump  from the equation...  

If you click on each picture, you will see the letters on each of the connections.  Each of the connections were measured with a multimeter...


A + B = 122V
A + C = 123V
B + C = 246V


A + B = 246V
A + C = 123V
B + C = 123V
With the breaker switched ON
E + F = 246V
D + E = 123V
D + F = 123V


A + B = 246V
A + C = 123V
B + C = 122V


A + B = 246V
A + C = 123V
B + C = 123V


----------



## frank123 (Dec 23, 2012)

Tried to find the motor on the Marathon site but is doesn't seem to be working.  Maybe try giving them a call tomorrow about the voltage?


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 23, 2012)

NewLondon88 said:


> I'd take it back.. (Campbell Hausfeld discontinued that motor)
> That motor can be wired 120 or 240, but should be marked the way
> it was wired. (not marked 120 and wired 240) so you're not really
> sure what is going on yet. I wouldn't monkey with it


There were no plug wires with the AC when I bought it.  I have it plugged directly to a remote breaker panel.


----------



## PenMan1 (Dec 23, 2012)

Thanks, Michael. I missed the You Tube video.

Two quick thoughts:
1: The old working compressor, next to the new one: Is it functioning properly? Is it also 220? What does the motor tag on this unit say?

2. Is it possible to "hand truck" the compressor over to the 30 amp dust collector connection? If it doesn't work there, I'd almost bet on "bad motor".

As Charlie said, HD did have some compressor motor issues at one point. Maybe this could be one of them?


----------



## frank123 (Dec 23, 2012)

Crashmph said:


> NewLondon88 said:
> 
> 
> > I'd take it back.. (Campbell Hausfeld discontinued that motor)
> ...




Wont hurt to give it a short try, so change it over to 120 and see if that solves the problem (I suspect it will since the motor id is for that voltage).  If it was a floor model it could have a compromised history and have been rewired by someone at some point, and possibly more than once, which could explain the conflicting voltage tag.


----------



## AKBeaver (Dec 24, 2012)

The video helps.  It is running fine, then you hear clicks then all goes quit, then another click.  You have 2caps, one is the start cap and the other is the run cap.  I believe that once the motor gets up to speed and the start cap is disconnected and the run cap is brought into circuit, is when the breaker trips.  


Check to make sure all wiring connections to the caps and the pressure switch are solid.  If everything is good, then I suggest you take it back for a replacement.   As stated earlier, the motor is no longer used by C&H, and the parts list on the HD website lists a different motor.  

Fyi, The date code in the Marathon model number shows it was made in Sept of '98

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner


----------



## AKBeaver (Dec 24, 2012)

Is there a wiring diagram on the inside of the cover plate, with the 230 volt only sticker on it?  I would think there would be one to select 120 or 240 volt operation.  The owner manual online is for the newer motors, which may be auto sensing for voltage.  You have the old motor and you may have to move the motor wires to different taps for 240 volts.

If there is no wiring diagram, go ahead and try to run it on a 120 volt circuit. White to white and black to black at the pressure switch.

If it still trips the breakers, take it back.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner


----------



## Talfalfa33 (Dec 24, 2012)

Hello, I agree with Charles. Sounds like you have a hot wire and the common wire switched. Once you figure out witch one is your common, generally it's white, just switch it and you should be good to go.


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 24, 2012)

Its a 120V ONLY motor.  I don't care what the manual or any stickers say, the motor plate only says 120V, and the diagram of the motor wiring doesn't show on option of 230V.  Switch it to 120V and it should work fine.  The easy way to do that to check is simply pull the white wire out of the breaker and stick it in the neutral bar.  If that works, then you can fix all of the wiring so that it is properly wired 120V.  It is not a 120/230V motor, if it were in fact a 120/230V motor the motor plate would look like this showing both voltages: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




If it was sold to you as a 120/230V compressor, take it back and quit futzing with it.  It is very clearly a 120V ONLY compressor.


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 24, 2012)

frank123 said:


> What kind of plug did the compressor come with?
> 
> 120 and 240 should be using different plugs that won't plug into one another and the motor plate does seem to say it is a 110 motor on it.  I'd trust the motor id plate before I'd trust an instruction manual.



What he said, trust the motor plate.



NewLondon88 said:


> I'd take it back.. (Campbell Hausfeld discontinued that motor)
> That motor can be wired 120 or 240, but should be marked the way
> it was wired. (not marked 120 and wired 240) so you're not really
> sure what is going on yet. I wouldn't monkey with it



This is wrong, the motor plate does not show a 240V option.



AKBeaver said:


> The video helps.  It is running fine, then you hear clicks then all goes quit, then another click.  You have 2caps, one is the start cap and the other is the run cap.  I believe that once the motor gets up to speed and the start cap is disconnected and the run cap is brought into circuit, is when the breaker trips.
> 
> 
> Check to make sure all wiring connections to the caps and the pressure switch are solid.  If everything is good, then I suggest you take it back for a replacement.   As stated earlier, the motor is no longer used by C&H, and the parts list on the HD website lists a different motor.
> ...



Why worry about the start/run capacitors when its wired to the wrong voltage, also, if its a brand new motor and the capacitors are bad, take it back, don't worry about fixing them.



Talfalfa33 said:


> Hello, I agree with Charles. Sounds like you have a hot wire and the common wire switched. Once you figure out witch one is your common, generally it's white, just switch it and you should be good to go.



Switching the hot and common would do absolutely nothing.


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 24, 2012)

I can not believe you are even doing what you are doing. You will void the warrenty the more you play with this thing. Take it back for Pete's sake. It is under warrenty. Too many want to be electricians here. Do this before you get hurt. If this unit is suspect as I see it is I won't trust it even if you get it running. This is a large tank on there. If it has been damaged or misused being a floor model I would not want that bomb sitting in my shop. Buying cheap doesn't always pay off. Be careful.  There is way too much conflicting info on this motor. Buy from someone who knows what they are talking about. I agree about the motor label this to me shows it is a 120  volt unit only.


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 24, 2012)

jttheclockman said:


> I agree about the motor label this to me shows it is a 120  volt unit only.



I appreciate all of the help on here from everyone.  There is just too much wrong with the AC.  I called and talked to a local AC and Tool repair shop, and the consensus was that this AC is "tainted".  Motor not matching write and other such issues.  

Now... anyone want to help load this thing up to go back to home depot?  I will by buying  non-floor model now.

Thanks for the help everyone!


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 24, 2012)

airborne_r6 said:


> Its a 120V ONLY motor...It is very clearly a 120V ONLY compressor.



That was the most confusing part.  The 120V part made no sense to me.

Michael


----------



## PenMan1 (Dec 24, 2012)

Good luck, Michael!


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 24, 2012)

Crashmph said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> > I agree about the motor label this to me shows it is a 120 volt unit only.
> ...


 


If you were closer I would be more than happy to help you get that back to Home Depot and also talk to a manager there for sure. That tool does not belong on the floor again. Reduced or not.


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 24, 2012)

jttheclockman said:


> That tool does not belong on the floor again. Reduced or not.



Agreed!

Worst part is that I already have it concrete anchored to the floor with the rubber pads and everything.  Had to borrow a hammer drill to drill the holes too.  Guess I at least have the anchors all ready to go for the replacement.

Since HD has been a little less than honest about this last purchase... I will be getting this Kobalt one instead at Lowes.  It is the same series of re-branded Campbell Hausfeld Air Compressor.

Michael


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 24, 2012)

jttheclockman said:


> ...Too many want to be electricians here...



I was one before I went back to school, and I definitely agree, take it back.


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 24, 2012)

Crashmph said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> > That tool does not belong on the floor again. Reduced or not.
> ...


 

I just happened to be in Home Depot today looking for some paneling. I happened to stop by the tool department and saw those compressors and every one had a 120 volt name tag on the motor. A Larger unit next to them had a 220 volt tag which I can understand because it was a larger unit. Maybe someone got the booklets mixed up. 

Look at the Lowes one the same way because they look like clones. 

May I ask what it is that you do that needs such a unit??  These are noisy as is every oiless unit. I have a CH 20 gal that is oiless but I use it outdoors for spraying lacquers.  Filling those tanks and draining them tends to leave alot of water residue and leads to rusting. Make sure you get a water filter. I have a smaller oil filled unit I use indoors in my shop and is enough to power any nailer I need. Have a oiless Dewalt for the portable jobs that come up now and again. 


Good luck.


----------



## PenPal (Dec 24, 2012)

John,

The brief on the compressor said it was an oiler, not oilless therefor unsuitable for etc etc, my experiences with a Durr oilless compressor tells me it is quieter than conventional compressors by a long way. Mind you my compressor twin was from a working Dentistry and peripheral noise is discouraged anyway. A real bargain is rare in hardware especially quality motors.

IMHO the purchaser of the problem unit was duped internally by the firm in the first place all the effort put into this stage substantial and more than fair if the request for a refund takes place. Yes we are all would be tinkerers with electricity especially in the United States where
so many people do their own wiring. Our 240v, 415v three phase and as an Electrician for over
fifty years tells me trying to save on lethal products can have dire results.

I do encourage determining facts however the supplier has an even more serious duty of care in selling potentially incorrect information in this case a warning to me would have been flagged with the unit not having a proper plug open wire at purchase.

Dare say the resulting conversations all prove my point with so much conjecture, imagine if a Doctor were to give out information on do it yourself operations the end result could have been the same or worse than this incident.

A trend on the forum is to seek the highest price squeeze the supplier to multiply the profit
on pens etc as fair game. In this country going down the gurgler follows when specialist suppliers find so many do it your dangerous selfers abide in their customers.

Enjoy a prosperous New Year as well as a safer Xmas period.

Kind regards Peter.


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 24, 2012)

pwhay said:


> John,
> 
> The brief on the compressor said it was an oiler, not oilless therefor unsuitable for etc etc, my experiences with a Durr oilless compressor tells me it is quieter than conventional compressors by a long way. Mind you my compressor twin was from a working Dentistry and peripheral noise is discouraged anyway. A real bargain is rare in hardware especially quality motors.
> 
> ...


 

Peter

I am not quite sure what you said but I did go back and read the specs and you  are correct in that it is an oil machine so yes it should be quieter. I did not look at the cap that was on the end of the chord while I was in the store. All I looked at was the name tag. I was in a hurry to get out of there.  That would have been another clue if it was 120volts. Way too many issues with that unit is the way I looked at it. For a brand new tool not to work rasises questions from the get go. I think I would have tried it before bolting it down but still that should not be an issue to get his money back. 

And I agree with way too many people doing their own electrical work when not qualified. I have seen some horrendous fire potential situations in my career. I have said this before on this site and others. When people ask for electrical advice the best I can give them is seek a qualified electrician in their area and pay the person. It is worth it in the long run. Electricity is nothing to fool with. There are times when advice is given but small steps or factors are left out because the person giving them knows but forgets to mention them and they can become lethal. 

Thanks for clearing that up. I misspoke on the oil thing.


----------



## NewLondon88 (Dec 24, 2012)

airborne_r6 said:


> NewLondon88 said:
> 
> 
> > I'd take it back.. (Campbell Hausfeld discontinued that motor)
> ...



No, it doesn't. The website says that this a 120/240 motor and can be
wired either way. That's why it doesn't make sense to me. Something
is hinky... I wouldn't trust it.


----------



## Charlie_W (Dec 24, 2012)

Crashmph said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> > I agree about the motor label this to me shows it is a 120  volt unit only.
> ...


If you can wait a week or two, I would be glad to help. I am in Sterling.  PM me if interested. I do have a trailer.


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 24, 2012)

Thank you all for you input.


----------



## NC Wood Art (Dec 25, 2012)

I ran a tool repair company for 13 years. They make those single stage compressors with dual voltage motors 115-120v or 230-240v. You use half the amperage on a 230 volt line than a 115v. The diagram for low voltage is 115-120, the high voltage is 230-240v. You can change the wiring per the motor diagram- they normally have plug on them for 115-120V- if it is designed or prewired for 230-240V it will not even usually have a wire on it at all. You wire straight from disconnect switch to compressor. The wiring diagram on motor is simple enough to follow & usually only 2 wires to switch voltage.

Bill


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 25, 2012)

AeroCustoms.com said:


> I ran a tool repair company for 13 years. They make those single stage compressors with dual voltage motors 115-120v or 230-240v. You use half the amperage on a 230 volt line than a 115v. The diagram for low voltage is 115-120, the high voltage is 230-240v. You can change the wiring per the motor diagram- they normally have plug on them for 115-120V- if it is designed or prewired for 230-240V it will not even usually have a wire on it at all. You wire straight from disconnect switch to compressor. The wiring diagram on motor is simple enough to follow & usually only 2 wires to switch voltage.
> 
> Bill


 

The thing is though you do not send a motor out with one voltage listed then, which this was the case here.


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 26, 2012)

AeroCustoms.com said:


> I ran a tool repair company for 13 years. They make those single stage compressors with dual voltage motors 115-120v or 230-240v. You use half the amperage on a 230 volt line than a 115v. The diagram for low voltage is 115-120, the high voltage is 230-240v. You can change the wiring per the motor diagram- they normally have plug on them for 115-120V- if it is designed or prewired for 230-240V it will not even usually have a wire on it at all. You wire straight from disconnect switch to compressor. The wiring diagram on motor is simple enough to follow & usually only 2 wires to switch voltage.
> 
> Bill



The motor on this compressor was not a dual voltage motor.  Please go look at the picture of the motor plate that was shown.  If you ran a tool repair company for 13 years you should be able to read it.


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 26, 2012)

NewLondon88 said:


> airborne_r6 said:
> 
> 
> > NewLondon88 said:
> ...



What the internet says is utterly and completely useless.  The only thing that matters is what the motor plate says.


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 26, 2012)

I looked at the ones in Lowes today and their tag says 208-240volt  Then on the side of the tank it says 240volt.


----------



## NewLondon88 (Dec 27, 2012)

airborne_r6 said:


> What the internet says is utterly and completely useless.  The only thing that matters is what the motor plate says.



It was a PDF from Campbell Hausfeld's  website. Several, in fact.
So not everything on the internet is "utterly and completely useless."1
... unless you were talking about this post..


----------



## wee willie (Dec 27, 2012)

problem is that people who do the websites quite often just cut and paste from another similar item without checking the specs DAMHIKT


----------



## PWL (Dec 27, 2012)

I think it was the floor model because it was returned with a bad motor and it was replaced with the wrong motor for that model ac? A repair tech in a hurry?
Just my opinion. Wire it for 110,see if it runs,then make your decision. 

PW


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 28, 2012)

NewLondon88 said:


> airborne_r6 said:
> 
> 
> > What the internet says is utterly and completely useless.  The only thing that matters is what the motor plate says.
> ...





I don't care what the source was.  The ONLY information about a motor that is guaranteed to be correct is the motor name plate, especially if you are looking at Campbell Hausfeld's website for information about a Husky compressor, rebranded or or not.  As proof, you stated twice that the website said the motor was 120/240V and this motor was not.  When it comes to motors, the only thing you can trust is the motor nameplate, period.


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 28, 2012)

airborne_r6 said:


> NewLondon88 said:
> 
> 
> > airborne_r6 said:
> ...


 

Ehhhhhhhhhhh you hope. Things happen.


----------



## NewLondon88 (Dec 29, 2012)

airborne_r6 said:


> I don't care what the source was.  The ONLY information about a motor that is guaranteed to be correct is the motor name plate, especially if you are looking at Campbell Hausfeld's website for information about a Husky compressor, rebranded or or not.  As proof, you stated twice that the website said the motor was 120/240V and this motor was not.  When it comes to motors, the only thing you can trust is the motor nameplate, period.



who peed in your cornflakes?

You don't have any idea what that motor is. Neither do I.
This is why I said (more than once) that I wouldn't trust it.

The part number on that motor is what I looked up. I have no idea
if that name plate is the one for that motor, if the motor was a refurb,
if someone put the wrong plate on it, perhaps they have a different
name plate for pre-wired motors (and don't tell the consumer) etc.
etc.
I did not seek out info from CH. I looked up the motor part number.
Every website I found says that this number is a 120/240 motor
and has been discontinued. That info doesn't match his description.
Therefore, I wouldn't trust it. Return it.

And on any product where the provenance is in question like this,
I wouldn't trust the nameplate, either.


----------



## airborne_r6 (Dec 30, 2012)

NewLondon88 said:


> who peed in your cornflakes?
> ...



All of the people who are giving electrical advice and have no idea what they are talking about and have no actual experience working with motors beyond plugging them in. And just so you don't go and feel like I am singling you out, this includes basically everyone who has posted in the thread.

Beyond "take it back", all of the advice that has been posted in this thread is some combination of wrong, well meaning but ignorant, useless, dangerous or just plain stupid.  

I am sorry if I am offending everyone who has posted, but electricity is nothing to joke around with.  I worked as an electrical apprentice for years and have well more than enough hours to test for my journeyman's license but knew I wasn't going to do it for a living and never bothered taking the test. I am currently a second year medical student.

I have been intentionally very blunt in pointing out errors in posts in this thread hopefully so that I get the point across that people shouldn't be giving electrical advice on the internet.  The only reason I even chimed in was because of the gross errors and lack of understanding in what was being posted.

This will be the last post I make regarding this.


----------



## Crashmph (Dec 30, 2012)

*Let me end the madness...*

Ok... here is what has happened over the past few days.

Called Home Depot product support, got transferred to my "local store" only to have the nice gentleman on the phone (I will not out the man by name as he lives in my neighborhood) told me that that AC was for commercial use only and that the power in my house could not support a "two-phase" power requirement.  I asked if he meant 3-phase, and he said no, that he intended to say "two-phase".  I then pointed out that the motor plate and manual both stated single phase.  He then changed gears to say that the motor required 240V of power and that my house could only support 220V.  That is where I thanked him for his time and hung up.  I was actually quite polite about it.

Called up Marathon Electric... The motor is the correct motor for the compressor, but the plate is incorrect.  I explained over the phone to a very knowledgeable chap what all I went through to trouble shoot, and how I had done to isolate it down to the motor having problems. They offered to send me a replacement.  I said thanks but no thanks as I would just return the AC.

Returned to Home Depot with the compressor.  Walked up to the return counter and explained that I had a return and I would need a forklift/pallet jack to get it in the store.  I explained that it was an AC and she called a forklift driver to the front.  Walking with the guy to my truck at the contractor entrance, I explained the past few weeks and the "interesting" phone call for support.  That was when he told me he was the manager on shift today; I thought I was just talking to a regular forklift driver.  

He then asked if I wanted to exchange it, and I explained that it was a floor model, mine was the last one, they discontinued the model, etc... He asked for my receipt and asked if I was "done" with the Husky brand?  I explained that one bad product does not kill it for me, but two in a row would.  He offered to swap out the floor model I bought for the new one still strech wrapped up.  Of course I said yes.  

Here is the new AC.  All of the wiring was already done so it was very easy and quick to get this one hooked up.  The new AC is fully operational.  Here is a picture of it below.  




The little blue one there is off to craigslist now.  I can hardly believe how much quieter this new 60 gal is over my old oil-less 20 Gal.  It is even quieter than the returned 60 Gal, when it was running.

Now I just have to drill new mount point holes for it.  The returned AC had three legs and this one has four.  Oh well,  at least I get to reuse one of the holes from the previous AC.

In my opinion, Home Depot management went above and beyond to call to make things right with the customer with regard to me.  I was not even a ridiculously upset person over the whole ordeal. 

Michael


----------



## Charlie_W (Dec 31, 2012)

Crashmph said:


> Ok... here is what has happened over the past few days.
> 
> Called Home Depot product support, got transferred to my "local store" only to have the nice gentleman on the phone (I will not out the man by name as he lives in my neighborhood) told me that that AC was for commercial use only and that the power in my house could not support a "two-phase" power requirement.  I asked if he meant 3-phase, and he said no, that he intended to say "two-phase".  I then pointed out that the motor plate and manual both stated single phase.  He then changed gears to say that the motor required 240V of power and that my house could only support 220V.  That is where I thanked him for his time and hung up.  I was actually quite polite about it.
> 
> ...



I'm glad you got it resolved. One time we were using a credit union and they made an error with our account. I paid them a visit, explained the error, showed them the documentation. The person said "I'm surprised you are not angry" to which I replied" I don't need to be upset. I am right".

Did you see the post regarding somelocal penturners getting together in January?


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 31, 2012)

Glad to hear things worked out.

Goes to show you name plates can be wrong. How about that. Thanks for the update and good luck with it. 

That is alot of compressor.


----------



## jttheclockman (Dec 31, 2012)

airborne_r6 said:


> NewLondon88 said:
> 
> 
> > who peed in your cornflakes?
> ...


 

Easy there Wayne my friend. I am an IBEW card carrying electrician for 40 years and have worked on more motors than you have seen in your lifetime. I have not given this person one ounce of bad info.  And as I look back the only real bad info came from you and here is your quote. Now look at what the operator just updated us on and read the part about the nameplate that the motor company said. These things can happen. I have seen all kinds of miswired and mislabeled equipment over the years especially if the company deals with countrys where the voltage and cycles is different than ours.  Things get mixed up for sure. 

Have a great day. 



Quote:
Originally Posted by *NewLondon88* 

 
_Quote:
Originally Posted by *airborne_r6* 

 

What the internet says is utterly and completely useless. The only thing that matters is what the motor plate says.

It was a PDF from Campbell Hausfeld's website. Several, in fact.
So not everything on the internet is "utterly and completely useless."1
... unless you were talking about this post.._



I don't care what the source was. The ONLY information about a motor that is guaranteed to be correct is the motor name plate, especially if you are looking at Campbell Hausfeld's website for information about a Husky compressor, rebranded or or not. As proof, you stated twice that the website said the motor was 120/240V and this motor was not. When it comes to motors, the only thing you can trust is the motor nameplate, period.


----------



## airborne_r6 (Jan 1, 2013)

jttheclockman said:


> [
> Easy there Wayne my friend. I am an IBEW card carrying electrician for 40 years and have worked on more motors than you have seen in your lifetime. I have not given this person one ounce of bad info.  And as I look back the only real bad info came from you and here is your quote. Now look at what the operator just updated us on and read the part about the nameplate that the motor company said. These things can happen. I have seen all kinds of miswired and mislabeled equipment over the years especially if the company deals with countrys where the voltage and cycles is different than ours.  Things get mixed up for sure.
> 
> Have a great day.



Every now and then I dig in my heels about something where I am wrong and in addition to ending up with egg on my face I become I royal ass.  This is one of those circumstances.  I seem to need constant reminding that no matter how much I know, I don't know everything and am not always right.  

As I have reviewed my posts in this thread, every post after my first post was pointless, argumentative, rude, arrogant and just plain stupid.  

I apologize; I am sorry for my behavior and hope that you all will not think that this is the type of person that I am all the time.


----------



## jttheclockman (Jan 1, 2013)

We all make mistakes. That is why we are humans.:biggrin:  The bottom line is the person involved got a favorable outcome and all is well. We move on. Happy New Year!!!


----------



## PenMan1 (Jan 1, 2013)

Michael:
If you are truely satisfied with the efforts of the Home Depot Associate who made the manufacturing error "not your problem", you should go to the Home Depot website and leave a comment.

Home Depot (whose corporate headquarters are here) puts the needs, actions and resposibilities of the "front line Associates above EVERYTHING AND EVERBODY ELSE inside the company. The ONLY people more important in the Home Depot organization is the YOU their Customer.

HD has made great efforts to empower the front line associates, and "the store support center" loves to hear "the voice of the customer", both when these Associates thrive and when they fall short.

I'd be willing to bet that HD would be interested in hearing your story. And I'm glad your saga is over.


----------



## jttheclockman (Jan 1, 2013)

I hope they don't put that unit back on the floor


----------



## NewLondon88 (Jan 2, 2013)

airborne_r6 said:


> Every now and then I dig in my heels about something where I am wrong and in addition to ending up with egg on my face I become I royal ass.  This is one of those circumstances.  I seem to need constant reminding that no matter how much I know, I don't know everything and am not always right.
> 
> As I have reviewed my posts in this thread, every post after my first post was pointless, argumentative, rude, arrogant and just plain stupid.
> 
> I apologize; I am sorry for my behavior and hope that you all will not think that this is the type of person that I am all the time.



well crap... if you're going to be decent about it, we don't get to spike the ball! :tongue:


----------

