# Using a grinder wheel on a lathe? Any reason not to?



## redfishsc

I'm about to pull the trigger on buying an 8" grinder. 

The main reason I need it is for shaping my turning tools. I use a Sheppach wet/dry for actual sharpening and touch up. 

However, the thought occurred to me today that I could probably just buy a used mini/midi lathe on Craigslist, buy a nice 8" wheel and just mount it to the lathe. 

That way, I have a reasonably nice grinder but, best of all, I have a nice lathe that I can also use for my buffing wheel assembly for buffing acrylics or using as a grinder. 

The only tricky part I can think of is how to mount the wheel safely to the lathe. Obviously I'd do this with the tail stock in place, and I can probably find a morse taper mandrel or something similar to fit it. 

Thoughts... other than "you'll shoot your eye out!"?


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## hilltopper46

I have an old Powerkraft lathe I bought when I was fairly new to this and I don't use it for anything because the motor is burt up in it.  Anyway, it has a grinder wheel designed into it on the outboard end of the tailstock.  I'll see if I can round up a picture or two.   I know I have some on  my work computer but I'm at home, now.

(Edited to add) For what it's worth here are the pictures, the grinding wheel is through the cutout on the left side oft he headstock.


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## PenMan1

Can be done. Personally, I'd thread a piece of drill rod and put a collar on each side (left and right threads at the collar). Put a 60 degree dimple in the end for using the tailstock. 

Additionally, I'd mount this rod in a Collet chuck.

The last thing you want is a five pound grind wheel running at 4,000 rpms flying at your head.

SOME grinders "turn away for you" while the lathe turns toward you. You might need to be able to use the lathe from the back side to be effective?

Be careful! This is dangerous if done incorrectly! DAMHIKT


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## hilltopper46

PenMan1 said:


> Most grinders "turn away for you" while the lathe turns toward you.



This hasn't been MY experience with bench grinders.  Maybe grinders run differently in Georgia.  But, I don't think you are that far south, are you?


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## PenMan1

hilltopper46 said:


> PenMan1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Most grinders "turn away for you" while the lathe turns toward you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hasn't been MY experience with bench grinders.  Maybe grinders run differently in Georgia.  But, I don't think you are that far south, are you?
Click to expand...


Oops, Tony. My slow grinders turn away.Bench grinder turn toward.


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## DozerMite

PenMan1 said:


> Most grinders "turn away for you" while the lathe turns toward you.


 

I've never seen a grinder like that??? They rotate toward you and down. That forces the part being ground down against the rest.


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## ctubbs

Andy is correct when talking about the slow wet grinders )Tourmek (sp?) Grizzly).  Regular grinders turn toward the operator holding the item to the rest.
Charles


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## jlord

Don't mount the two together (grinding wheel & buffing wheels) on the lathe. You won't want metal particles in your buffing wheels.


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## redfishsc

Thanks guys. I like the idea of using drill rod and some stop collars, but how would I get enough tension between the collars to hold the wheel steady? 



jlord said:


> Don't mount the two together (grinding wheel & buffing wheels) on the lathe. You won't want metal particles in your buffing wheels.



Agreed. I my buffing wheels are the 3-wheel system from PSI so they take up all the space anyhow, but are very quick to change out since they just use a MT2. I'd remove the buffer and mount the grinder if I need it.


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## PenMan1

Use drill rod large enough to fit snugly in the hole. On an 8 inch wheel I think that size is 1/2 inch? Get locking collars that can use the grinder wheel washers.

If I had to buy the wheel, I'd buy a six inch wheel as it give more room to move the tool rest around and a 6 inch wheel can go faster than 8 inch wheel.


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## jttheclockman

I personally would not do this. The debris flying off the wheel and getting into the motor is not what you want. A grinder is designed for this purpose in mind. Just my 2¢


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## KBs Pensnmore

*Grinding wheel on a Lathe*

I've got a Symtec Lathe which is basically a copy lathe which has a 6"x1/2" white stone mounted on the outboard end of the head stock with a left hand thread, and I've found it most usefull as I don't have to move far to resharpen my tools. I'm trying to work out how to do it on my minilathe that I take with me on holidays to save extra weight. My 10c worth


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## robutacion

I've done that to my old GMC lathe and has been years of work without any problems at all.  I put a 9" sanding disc on a 9" round board about 2" thick, using the lathes original flat plate 5" (I think...?).

Screwing the round board in the plate, I true the outer surface by shavings/turning it a little, then I use a 9" Velcro sticky pad to fix it to the wood and voila, you've got the disc done.  

I improvised a disc table using the tool rest and a piece of floor paneling stuff, is thin but is strong, a couple of pieces of aluminium angle, a few other lose  bits and the "adjustable" table was born...!:wink: 

Recently I decided to make another timber disc (disc backing) as the original timber board has develop a crack so, and to void any future dramas, I've made another one but this time I used a piece of 35mm kitchen bench top, off cut (sink off-cuts are excellent for these things), then put a new Velcro Sticky pad as the old one was getting a little "used" and everything is back to new...!

Good luck

Cheers
George


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## JeffW

*Agree with jt*



jttheclockman said:


> I personally would not do this. The debris flying off the wheel and getting into the motor is not what you want. A grinder is designed for this purpose in mind. Just my 2¢


 
Get a HF or other chinese grinder and be done with it. Avoid the metal dust at your lathe. Just one opinion.


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## redfishsc

Good point on the sanding disk and I may just do that. Sanding pads can be changed out fairly cheap since I don't need to do a lot of tool shaping. Thanks for the idea!



JeffW said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I personally would not do this. The debris flying off the wheel and getting into the motor is not what you want. A grinder is designed for this purpose in mind. Just my 2¢
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get a HF or other chinese grinder and be done with it. Avoid the metal dust at your lathe. Just one opinion.
Click to expand...



I'm talking about buying a secondary used lathe (ie, cheap). I know it wouldn't be that good on a dedicated penturning lathe.


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## PenMan1

jttheclockman said:


> I personally would not do this. The debris flying off the wheel and getting into the motor is not what you want. A grinder is designed for this purpose in mind. Just my 2¢



I really have to agree with this! When you started this post I was thinking you were looking to make a slow speed grinder for cheap ( thus the comment about being able get to the back of the lathe).

You can buy a ryobi bench grinder (not the best quality, but working hard in half the shops in America) for $39. HF has them even cheaper.

By the time you buy drill rod, locking collars and stone, you have already spent this much. Why put unnecessary strain in the mini lathe bearings?


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## redfishsc

PenMan1 said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I personally would not do this. The debris flying off the wheel and getting into the motor is not what you want. A grinder is designed for this purpose in mind. Just my 2¢
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have to agree with this! When you started this post I was thinking you were looking to make a slow speed grinder for cheap ( thus the comment about being able get to the back of the lathe).
> 
> You can buy a ryobi bench grinder (not the best quality, but working hard in half the shops in America) for $39. HF has them even cheaper.
> 
> By the time you buy drill rod, locking collars and stone, you have already spent this much. Why put unnecessary strain in the mini lathe bearings?
Click to expand...



I will be using a minimum of an 8" wheel. The Ryobi $40 is a 6" 

I'm almost ready to buy a 10" grinder, it's the wheel diameter capability I want.


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## jttheclockman

redfishsc said:


> Good point on the sanding disk and I may just do that. Sanding pads can be changed out fairly cheap since I don't need to do a lot of tool shaping. Thanks for the idea!
> 
> 
> 
> JeffW said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I personally would not do this. The debris flying off the wheel and getting into the motor is not what you want. A grinder is designed for this purpose in mind. Just my 2¢
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get a HF or other chinese grinder and be done with it. Avoid the metal dust at your lathe. Just one opinion.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about buying a secondary used lathe (ie, cheap). I know it wouldn't be that good on a dedicated penturning lathe.
Click to expand...

 

Why buy a tool for what it is not designed for and then adapt it to do something that can be dangerous. Just not following the logic. A grinder has to be the easiest tool to mount somewhere out of the way even if you put it on a board and stand it in the corner. Another lathe would take up more room than a grinder. Get one with two wheels and be done with it. Now that is another 2¢. I am going to have to send a bill soon No need for 10" grinding wheels.


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## cnccutter

I'll have to weigh in on the side of  this not being such a hot idea. I have whats left of a grinding wheel sitting next to my bench. when it blew up, i got a back full of rocks. i was luck I had turned to get a chug from my coffee cup or I'd have taken it in the face. this all happen on a grinder with all the guards in place, i shutter to think how it might have turned out with a fully exposed wheel. the grinder kept most of the large chunks inside the gaurds.

go get a grinder that is designed for the job, I don't want to be giving condolences for a fellow friend turner

Erik


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## KBs Pensnmore

I was looking at PSI site 5mins. ago and saw what they called Chisel Mate Plus Sharpening System, an Aluminum disc 8" dia with sticky or velcro 80 grit paper attatched for about $30. It screws onto the spindle,and also has a V shaped holder included.
Might help if you are stuck for room, like most of us
Kryn


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## redfishsc

jttheclockman said:


> Why buy a tool for what it is not designed for and then adapt it to do something that can be dangerous. Just not following the logic.




It doesn't have to be any more dangerous than a grinder, except the lack of a guard. Innovate or stagnate. The point here is that for about the same price-- or a few dollars more-- as a new 8" grinder I could buy a used 10" midi lathe and have something that can handle both jobs. I don't see a grinding wheel spun at 1500RPM on a very stable lathe being any more dangerous than spinning a bowl blank (which is much more likely to come apart and embed in your face) at 800-1000 RPM but we do it all the time. 




> No need for 10" grinding wheels.



When you are using a wet/dry grinder like a Tormek or Sheppach (which I am using) then it makes a lot of sense to use a tool of a similar size to shape the tools to get the right shape cut. Otherwise you spend a lot of time on the wet/dry grinder having to flatten out the hollow grind put on by a smaller 6" grinder. 

I only have an 8" wet/dry so I really only need 8" wheels, but if the 10" are friable, then so much the better. They'll eventually be 8" lol.


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## redfishsc

cnccutter said:


> I'll have to weigh in on the side of  this not being such a hot idea. I have whats left of a grinding wheel sitting next to my bench. when it blew up, i got a back full of rocks. i was luck I had turned to get a chug from my coffee cup or I'd have taken it in the face. this all happen on a grinder with all the guards in place, i shutter to think how it might have turned out with a fully exposed wheel. the grinder kept most of the large chunks inside the gaurds.
> 
> go get a grinder that is designed for the job, I don't want to be giving condolences for a fellow friend turner
> 
> Erik




Point well taken and all the more reason to consider using a disc sander attachment instead of a grinding wheel.


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## jttheclockman

redfishsc said:


> jttheclockman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why buy a tool for what it is not designed for and then adapt it to do something that can be dangerous. Just not following the logic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't have to be any more dangerous than a grinder, except the lack of a guard. Innovate or stagnate. The point here is that for about the same price-- or a few dollars more-- as a new 8" grinder I could buy a used 10" midi lathe and have something that can handle both jobs. I don't see a grinding wheel spun at 1500RPM on a very stable lathe being any more dangerous than spinning a bowl blank (which is much more likely to come apart and embed in your face) at 800-1000 RPM but we do it all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No need for 10" grinding wheels.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> When you are using a wet/dry grinder like a Tormek or Sheppach (which I am using) then it makes a lot of sense to use a tool of a similar size to shape the tools to get the right shape cut. Otherwise you spend a lot of time on the wet/dry grinder having to flatten out the hollow grind put on by a smaller 6" grinder.
> 
> I only have an 8" wet/dry so I really only need 8" wheels, but if the 10" are friable, then so much the better. They'll eventually be 8" lol.
Click to expand...

 

You answered your own question because there is no point trying to persuade you otherwise. Good luck with your purchase. I bet there maybe just a small handfull of true turners that use a 10" wheel. Hate to have to pay for 10" wheels.


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## ctubbs

WOAH!  BACK UP JUST A MINUTE!  If you have and are using a slow wet grinder, why in the world are you trying to Mickey Mouse a grinding wheel onto your lathe?  Use the wet grinder.  It will grind just fine, no problem.  It is nice and slow, does not burn your tools. What have I missed here?  There I go again, all confused.
Charles


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## redfishsc

ctubbs said:


> WOAH!  BACK UP JUST A MINUTE!  If you have and are using a slow wet grinder, why in the world are you trying to Mickey Mouse a grinding wheel onto your lathe?  Use the wet grinder.  It will grind just fine, no problem.  It is nice and slow, does not burn your tools. What have I missed here?  There I go again, all confused.
> Charles




You missed the part where I said that I need something to _shape_ my tools. I have several bowl gouges that I need to put a specific grind on, as well as a couple skew chisels I occasionally need to re-grind. 

You can't easily shape anything on a wet/dry grinder. Your 100% right about it being a fantastic sharpener/honing device, but it's not a good option at all when you need to grind an entirely different shape on the end of a tool. Takes an eon, and I have to do it often enough to justify needing a grinder of some sort. 



jttheclockman said:


> You answered your own question because there is no point trying to persuade you otherwise. Good luck with your purchase. I bet there maybe just a small handfull of true turners that use a 10" wheel. Hate to have to pay for 10" wheels.



Sorry to have bothered you


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## BamaYank

*Just My Two cents*

Don't think if your going to do a lot of grinding that the grinding dust would be good the the ways on the lathe???  Sort of like sanding in the house with out tapeing everything off.  Boy that blows the wifes skirt up when she gets home.  L.O.L.


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## redfishsc

BamaYank said:


> Don't think if your going to do a lot of grinding that the grinding dust would be good the the ways on the lathe???  Sort of like sanding in the house with out tapeing everything off.  Boy that blows the wifes skirt up when she gets home.  L.O.L.



:rotfl: You got that right lol. 

The grinding dust probably would be hard on the ways if I didn't keep them clean.


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## Wildman

Lathe Arbor
http://www.bigtreetools.com/products/lathe-arbor.html

These lathe arbors once cost only $12 to $15 and many vendors sold them... 

Using your lathe to sharpen your tools has fallen out of favor, but essentially, you have the best slow speed grinder on the market for not much money.  AAW had an article on the subject written by man from NC in mid 1990’s. 

If test wheel before mounting, let it run for few minutes before attempting to sharpen do not see the big safety problem. 

Still all the Leaky Richards come out of the woods to harp upon safety! Nothing we do in wood- turning is completely safe.  

If you only have one lathe, stopping to sharpen a real P.I.T.A! That has more to do with lack of sales of these arbors than safety issues.  Fred Holder (More Woodturning) mentioned how folks still use these arbors with sharpening jigs out board and inboard several years back.


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## redfishsc

I ended up buying the old HF standby lathe. The handful of times I need to shape a chisel, I can use a disc sander attachment (ie, the faceplate) as a backer for a 6" si-carb sanding disk. No need for a grinding wheel but I can put a good disc sander to use for various things. 

Since the lathe has a 180 degree swinging head, I can set up my Ellsworth jig on the left, and never really have to take it down to use the lathe as a buffing wheel, for drilling, or whatever. I can shape my tools and then hone them on the Sheppach wet/dry.

I know this lathe has a good reputation FOR THE PRICE lol so I'm sure that it will suffice. Luckily it uses the same morse taper and threads as my Delta midi so I don't need any adapters. 

I was surprised at how smooth the lathe runs, seems to have no runout on the headstock that I can detect by hand, it's every bit as smooth as my Delta. 

I don't like the base it came with, so I'm going to mount it to a very sturdy wooden cabinet that's made from 1" thick lumber-core plywood. As long as I'm not swinging big bowl blanks, the cabinet will work great.


http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-x-33-3-8-eighth-inch-wood-lathe-with-reversible-head-34706.html


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## oneleggimp

Don't know what Morse Taper size your lathe is.  There was an item available called a "Work Arbor" which had a morse taper (at the time I had a Sears Craftsman lathe with MT1 spindle and tailstock bore) and I had at the time three work arbors.  One with a wire brush wheel, one with a buffing wheel, and one with a grinding stone.  The work arbors were tapped at the rear for a 1/4-20 draw bar and I always used it - especially with the grinding wheel and also brought the tailstock up with a ball bearing center to support the work arbor.  Work arbor had two collars and was threaded 1/2"-20. The were also made in MT2.  Sears no longer has them but try Amazon, Grizzly etc.


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## lrawlins

Coming from the point of view of someone who is employed by a grinding wheel company DO NOT DO THIS!

A typical 8X1X5/8 grinding wheel weighs about 3.75 lbs. At 1800 RPM a chunk coming off this will hit you at about 45 MPH. That can and will do damage.

You are exposed to what ever bad things can happen if the wheel breaks while in use. 

The same safety issues that apply to your work also make really good sense at home.

People really do suffer from all manner of injuries up and including death from grinding wheel failure. Your health and life are not worth saving a few dollars on a bench grinder.

There are reasons no one sells arbors for mounting grinding wheels on your lathe.

Bye for now,


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