# My CA Method



## Fangar

I have received quite a few emails regarding the method I use for my CA finish.  Firts off I must say that I am flattered.  The method I use is likely what many other people are already doing, but I thought I would post it here since I typed it out in a couple of emails already.

My method in nut shell is as follows:

-1800 RPM-

Sand with 240, 320, 400 Grit papers.

Wipe down with denatured alcohol (DNA)

Apply a thin sealer coat of Thin CA with 400 grit paper.

New sheet of 400 grit smooth out.

Wipe down with DNA.

MM through 12000 (DNA as needed between coats to remove sanding debris. Usually between each three of the MM.)

Two coats of Myland's cellulose sanding sealer.

MM last four grits through 12000 again.

DNA

-Slow lathe to 500 Rpm. ( or Slowest setting).-

Apply two coats thin CA with Costco Paper Shop towel. 
Air dry only betweencoats (NO ACCELERATOR).

Apply Two Coats of Thick CA, as smoothly as possible.  
Air dry betweencoats. (If you do need to use a light application of 
ACC, I wait at least 1 minute after each CA application, and only 
use the Aerosol from a distance.  I don't have any issues with cloudiness 
or bubbles this way.  The pump ACC does not work for me)

-Speed lathe back up to 1800 RPM.-

Sand with 320 Grit(Sometimes 240 grit if I went crazy) to remove any ridges, swirls etc.

Sand with 400 grit.

DNA

MM through 12000.

DNA

Buffing wheel with White Diamond only.

Hut Plastic Polish applied with paper shop towel.

TSW.

It seems like a ton of work, but really takes about 20 minutes from start to finish.  Each grit of paper and MM is a very quick, light sand letting the papers do the work.  There is not a ton of time on each grit, though I do make sure I have removed the sanding lines etc.  I have worked on this method for quite a while, and it really works the best as far as results for me.  

Some people will say that there are overlapping grits or stepping back at times, but it works for me. Maybe more of a ritual like a baseball player that goes through his nervous supersticious dance prior to each pitch!










Cheers,

Fangar


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## pete00

thanks for taking the time to post it Fangar.

pete


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## wudwrkr

Fangar.  Thanks for the detailed description.  I'm just waiting on my order of CA to start trying this. 

One question:  How do you apply your sanding sealer?  Is it still with the lathe at 1800rmp?  Do you use a piece of shop towel?  

Thanks again.  By the way, your pens are great and the finish looks perfect! [8D] I especially like the thuya burl.


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## Borg_B_Borg

I don't have the exact grit and mesh size info in front of me, but it is my understanding that 12000 MM is finer than both white diamond and Hut Plastic Polish(HPP).  In fact HPP contains a range of mesh sizes, with some possibly finer but also definitely some  coarser abrasives in it than 12000 MM.  Using HPP after 12000 MM will be going backwards.  If you think you're getting a higher shine over 12000MM after using HPP, it's because HPP has some oily/waxy shine enhancers in it, but it will leave a rougher underlying scratch pattern than 12000MM alone.

Now, if only I could take such pretty pictures with my pens ...

Steve


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by Borg_B_Borg_
> <br />I don't have the exact grit and mess size info in front of me, but it is my understanding that 12000 MM is finer than both white diamond and Hut Plastic Polish(HPP).  In fact HPP contains a range of mesh sizes, with some possibly finer but also definitely some  coarser abrasives in it than 12000 MM.  Using HPP after 12000 MM will be going backwards.  If you think you're getting a higher shine over 12000MM after using HPP, it's because HPP has some oily/waxy shine enhancers in it, but it will leave a rougher underlying scratch pattern than 12000MM alone.
> 
> Steve
> 
> <b>
> 
> 
> 
> _Originally posted by Fangar_
> ...Some people will say that there are overlapping grits or stepping back at times, but it works for me. Maybe more of a ritual like a baseball player that goes through his nervous supersticious dance prior to each pitch!...
> 
> 
> 
> </b>
> 
> I agree... []
> 
> Fangar
Click to expand...


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## pete00

thank you steve....i didnt know that either......pete


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## JimGo

James,
You certainly can't argue with the results!  I have been stopping somewhere around your "speed the lathe back up" step, and I'll be curious to see whether the added steps you mention make a big difference.


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## Randy_

> _Originally posted by Fangar_
> <br />.....Apply a thin sealer coat of Thin CA with 400 grit paper.
> 
> New sheet of 400 grit smooth out.
> 
> Wipe down with DNA.
> 
> MM through 12000 (DNA as needed between coats to remove sanding debris. Usually between each three of the MM.)
> 
> Two coats of Myland's cellulose sanding sealer.....



James:  I'm interested in the logic behind the above portion of your process.

Why do you apply 2 additional coats of the Mylands?  Is it because you feel you have sanded off some or all of the original coat of CA sealer??  If so, why not just use more of the thin CA instead of the Mylands or if you like the Mylands, why not just start off with it rather than using the thin CA?  

I've never used a CA finish and the only thing I know about it is what I have read so I'm not implying that there is anything wrong with your method.  Just trying to understand how you came to this particular procedure.  Thanks.


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## thetalbott4

That is long list of items to do, but I'd do it twice per pen if they all came out like Fangs. Man, thats a shine![8D] Thanks for the info. I'm copying it down and pinning to the shop wall to try out.


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## wdcav1952

Fanger,

Nice post, great pens.  Pretty good combination I would say.


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## Fangar

Randy,

Since I apply the Thin CA at 1800 rpm with the 400 grit paper, it is pretty much a sanding sealer that fills in most of the small nicks or dings that are usually present in the burls I like.  Also, larger grains like cross cut Zebra etc, benefit from this.  Once I sand with the 400 after the thin CA application , the top layer is mostly (if not all) removed leaving CA in the voids or dents if you will only. Then I use the myland's.  

Cheers,

Fangar


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## GregMuller

Fanger,
Are you useing a piece of 400 grit paper to apply the ca or just to sand it afterward. If you do use the sand paper to apply just woundering why sandpaper to apply.


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## jimbo 31751

James, thanks for the info.


Jim


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## fuzzydog

What is TSW mean? Beautiful pics and can't wait to try your method.


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## alamocdc

> _Originally posted by fuzzydog_
> <br />What is TSW mean? Beautiful pics and can't wait to try your method.


TSW = Trade Secret for Wood. You can get it at AS and a number of other places.

Thanks, James! I don't use the CA finish much anymore, but I'll have to give this a try next time I need it.


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## Skye

> _Originally posted by GregMuller_
> <br />Fanger,
> Are you useing a piece of 400 grit paper to apply the ca or just to sand it afterward. If you do use the sand paper to apply just woundering why sandpaper to apply.



"Apply a thin sealer coat of Thin CA with 400 grit paper."

I think (and I'm new at this) that it's to rough up the surface while laying the first coat of CA. That throws the CA in a bunch of tiny grooves, helping it to bind. Just my guess.


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by GregMuller_
> <br />Fanger,
> Are you useing a piece of 400 grit paper to apply the ca or just to sand it afterward. If you do use the sand paper to apply just woundering why sandpaper to apply.



Greg,

I apply the thin sanding coat of CA with the sandpaper and also sand with a fresh sheet after that.  By using the sandpaper to apply it, you creat sort of a sanding slury that fills any small voids with not only CA, but very fine wood particles.  I use it to level the surface a little faster which helps to achieve the flat level glossy surface.

Cheers,

Fangar


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## Randy_

> _Originally posted by Fangar_
> <br />Randy,
> 
> Since I apply the Thin CA at 1800 rpm with the 400 grit paper, it is pretty much a sanding sealer that fills in most of the small nicks or dings that are usually present in the burls I like.  Also, larger grains like cross cut Zebra etc, benefit from this.  Once I sand with the 400 after the thin CA application , the top layer is mostly (if not all) removed leaving CA in the voids or dents if you will only. Then I use the myland's.



Thanks, James.  That makes sense to me!!


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## guts

James,i tried it,i like it and will continue to use it,nice and easy and looks good,thanks for the info.


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## HeatherA

Is there something that you can get at the box stores that can be used instead of the Mylands?  They don't like to ship that kind of stuff to Alaska.

Thanks,
Heather


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## BillATsetelDOTcom

Lowes carries a Minwax sanding sealer - I was going to pick some of that up.  I am not sure if it will give the same results or no.

On another note - Fanger, I have used your method on my past three pens (first time every doing a CA finish) the pens have turned out AMAZING.  I will be posting pics soon.

Bill


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## clowman

Fangar.. Just wondering. If you don't have a buffing wheel, could that be replaced with MM through 12k?


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by HeatherA_
> <br />Is there something that you can get at the box stores that can be used instead of the Mylands?  They don't like to ship that kind of stuff to Alaska.
> 
> Thanks,
> Heather



Heather,

Try the method without the sanding sealer.  When you get to that step, just omit it.  I have accidentally forgot it in the past and still finished with good results.  Try it without, and then if your are not happy, look into another type of sanding sealer you might be able to get locally.

Fangar


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by clowman_
> <br />Fangar.. Just wondering. If you don't have a buffing wheel, could that be replaced with MM through 12k?



If you switch to the MM in place of the buffing wheels, you would be using the MM twice in a row. If I was going to drop the wheels out of the loop, I would likely switch to the MM at a lower speed and possibly wet sand with the MM.  On the other hand, you can get a single wheel mandrel for your lathe for cheap.  You only need one for my technique.  I made my set for under 15 bucks with two wheels.  

Fangar


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## wudwrkr

Heather,
I've used the minwax sanding sealer with no problems.  I wouldn't eliminate that step from the porous woods.  I have found that the sanding sealer really helps the finish.  You could also use thin CA as a sanding sealer.  Use 400 grit to build up some dust and apply the thin CA to the sandpaper with the lathe running at slow speed.  It doesn't take much.


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## Randy_

> _Originally posted by clowman_
> <br />Fangar.. Just wondering. If you don't have a buffing wheel, could that be replaced with MM through 12k?



Clowman:  You can make a buffing system, that will run on your lathe, out of a $10 paint roller and a few pieces of scrap from your wood pile or Bruce can sell you a set of his custom made units for about $20 bucks, I think??  You can also put together a Beall clone for not too much money.  Check the classified.  I think there is a current add for a mandrel or, if you are handy, you can make one of your own.


Here is the link:  http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11971


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## BillATsetelDOTcom

For the record - yesterday when I did Fangar's finish - I ommited the sanding sealer step AND the buffing step and the results are great.

Again, when I get these pens done, I'll be posting pics.

Bill


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## Texas Taco

Fangar.........one additional question or three, I know this has been answered by others and probably you have too, how do you separate the blanks fron the bushings?  I've read others that have turned the CA off the bushings and I read where some just wax up the bushings with a thick coat and just snap the blank off the bushing.  Ruining a blank because of it being stuck to the bushing is making me question if I want to try this but looking at your pens it is something I want to try.


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by Hemibee_
> <br />Fangar.........one additional question or three, I know this has been answered by others and probably you have too, how do you separate the blanks fron the bushings?  I've read others that have turned the CA off the bushings and I read where some just wax up the bushings with a thick coat and just snap the blank off the bushing.  Ruining a blank because of it being stuck to the bushing is making me question if I want to try this but looking at your pens it is something I want to try.



Great question, and one that I am suprised has not been raised yet.  Ac couple of things can be done.  If turning a kit with 7mm or 8mm tubes tubes (Euro, Slimline, Streamline, Flatop, elegant american etc) I simply remove the bushings.  I use cut 7mm (or 8mm tubes for the B Mandrel) as spacers and have at it.  Then any over flow of CA can be gently cleaned up around the mating surfaces using a pen mill by hand.  

If the kits use larger tubes where the bushngs insert into the tubes (Baron, Gents, States, Etc) There are several techniques.  Waxing helps.  I have done that from time to time.  Also, a spacer washer made out of nylon cutting board material (As suggested by my friend Eagle).  The CA does not like to stick to the bread board. Even without the different techniques, the best method is to check for bushing stick between each application of CA.  If you gor from two coats of thin through your two coats of thick, the CA will be very thick at the bushings, and will likely cause a crack under the edge...BAD!  Finally, a sharp skew chisel used on the joint of the bushings.  DO THIS BY HAND!  Don't turn the lathe on.  Just run the hand wheel with your free hand with the sharp edge in place.  Also a very sharp razor blade will work (I have used a box cutter) with the lathe turned by hand (Away from you).  

Mostly, I just check for stick in between each coat, and trim any excess (If excessive) between coats. Not too much of a problem.  

Let us know of any techniques that you come up with.

Cheers,

Fangar


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## Texas Taco

A box cutter, I like that.  Now I'm going to have to try it.


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## Lioncourt

Has anyone tried this method of finishing on larger items? I'm curious how it would work on something like a small box or mallet? Would there be drying issues? I just love the shine and have yet to try it(still waiting for supplies) bu i have a few larger items i wouldn't mind protecting a bit better.


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by Lioncourt_
> <br />Has anyone tried this method of finishing on larger items? I'm curious how it would work on something like a small box or mallet? Would there be drying issues? I just love the shine and have yet to try it(still waiting for supplies) bu i have a few larger items i wouldn't mind protecting a bit better.



Usually, for larger items, I use spray lacquer for that gloss.  It can be done.  I have used this method on several bottle stoppers with good results.  However, I find that the main reason I like it is the durability factor as a pen is usually handled a bit more than a box.  A mallet would not be the best option if it was to be used as the CA when dry is a plastic.  Any impact like that of a mallet would likely cause cracks.  It would be fine for a display gavel that wasn't really going to be used.  I use lacquer for my flat work too.





The pens are CA, the base and clock stand are Deft Spray lacquer.  

Fangar


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## TomServo

Fangar, I just can't help but admire that desk set whenever I see it - fantastic figure there and nicely matched. I don't have any sanding sealer, so I'll try with my thin CA, one last time with CA finish :/ I still have a bottle of medium CA I can't use for anything (it turns white after 2 seconds no matter how little I apply)


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## Randy_

> _Originally posted by TomServo_<br />.....I still have a bottle of medium CA I can't use for anything (it turns white after 2 seconds no matter how little I apply)



Hey Tom:  I imagine it still makes a pretty good glue??[]


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## jdavis

thanks great pen


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## Lioncourt

I just tried the method on 2 pens, the first came out pretty nice. The second isn't bad but i had a few issues. First the pen started to split due to non stabilized wood...any thought on if the method should be ammended for this issue? Also the pen turned up having a few dull spots even after polishing. they occured mostly around the cracks. What could cause this? I had one other issue of the finish pulling up a little when i seperated the bushing with a knife. guess i just have to be more gentle(thought the glue would bond a bit better?)


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## Lioncourt

So noone has had this "dull area" issue? I just tried it again with the same wood(austrailian vasticola burl) and got the same effect. I thout at first it might be an issue with the ca not being cured enough or oil from my hands so this one i let the ca cure 8 hours and made sure to not touch the wood. it was looking great then i put on the TSW, let it haze then "buffed" it with a soft rag while it was still on the lathe. All I can figure is some issue with the TSW maybe? Should i wait a while after buffing before handling? The only thing that rebuffs this theory is that the issue still occurs around areas in the wood that displayed small cracks before finishing. Please help if you can I can't seem to figure it out and it's such a pretty wood.


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## Fangar

Lioncourt,

Are you using Accelerator?  

If you ever get a crack or raised spot where it seems to bubble under the end when removing it from your bushings, simply turn the blank on end, Bubble side up.  Then use thin CA to carefully backfill behind the finish. The thin CA will wick into the spot and the end issue will vanish. 

Cheers,

Fangar


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## Lioncourt

I'm not using acc.  and that sounds like a great way to fix the bubble but still nothing on dull unpolishable spots?


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## Fangar

It is likely an issue with the DNA.  Some woods seem to not like the DNA.  Most likely there are still some damp spots when you switch to the CA.  On the burl you are using, chisel all of the CA off and then use a blow gun to remove the dust and dirt instead of CA. 

This time of year, my CA finishes are definately harder to work with.  My shop is only around 58 degrees until I turn on my small floor heaters.  It never really gets up too high.  CA likes to act in warmer temperatures. Still, with patience they seem to come out.  

I am guessing that the dull spots are under the finish.  Most likey that, or they are areas where you have sanded through the CA and are seeing the less shiniy dull spots of the wood.

Fangar


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## rglinks

Questions for Fanger..............

Can Mylands FP be used instead of HUT's Plastic Polish?
Takes a while to get these items in where I live (Can't be aired in.)
I got Myland's because I was told it was the best. 

I'm new at this and still have a lot of ?'s but I've tried so many different way to finish but nolthing seems to last.


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## rglinks

Sorry but thanks ahead of time..


Ron................


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## Fangar

Ron,

Many people use Myland's over the top of a CA finish for an additional protectant prior to sale, but eventually it will wear off.  As far as using it for a polish, I am not real sure that would work.  The HUT PP has an abrasive in it that polishes, and is not necessarily a finish.  I would think that if you still had some scratches in the surface, the Myland's would likely not do much there.  

Maybe give it a try and let us know of your results.

Cheers,

Fangar


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## snoplow

It was asked once but I don't think it was ever answered, do you apply the sanding sealer with a brush or a paper towel? Lathe spinning or not? By the way, you do some fantastic looking work! 
Thanks 
Roy


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## Randy_

Roy:  I just tried some Mylands SS for the first time on a new handle I was making for a tool to adjust the garage door spring.  Used paper towels for application and it came apart and made a mess.  I was just using cheap Dollar Store paper towels so maybe good ones would work better; but I will be using a lint-free cloth from now on.


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by snoplow_
> <br />It was asked once but I don't think it was ever answered, do you apply the sanding sealer with a brush or a paper towel? Lathe spinning or not? By the way, you do some fantastic looking work!
> Thanks
> Roy



Sorry about missing that Roy.  I use the shop towels (Paper) that I get from Costco.  I like them.  If you apply to much pressure with paper towels, they will break up.  Not a lot of pressure is needed.  Lathe spinning. 1800 rpm.  

Thanks for the compliments on the work. 

Cheers,

Fangar


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## rglinks

Fanger

I just tried your method using your instructions and I would like to tell you that this is the best finish that I have come across out of all the the ones that I have tried.  I could'nt follow your instructions to the T because I cannot get the Hut Plastic Polish where I live(Cannot Air In).  I used Mothers Plastic Polish instead of Hut and the results was fantastic

Thanks again for the instructions

Ron.......


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## Fangar

Ron,

Really glad to hear that you achieved good results.  When you get some time, post up some of those pens so that we can all learn from your work.  Thanks for the kind words and you're welcome.

Fangar


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## bobm

Fangar,
Outstanding pens....really like the elegnt american...does the center band have smooth (or rough)edges where the gold meets the black recessed band.  I just turned one and the band feels rough when my hand slides across it, BB says that's the way its designed and I haven't heard back from Berea...really like the pen sizewize but the CB bothers me...
again great job on the pens...
bob





<br />


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## Fangar

> _Originally posted by bobm_
> <br />Fangar,
> Outstanding pens....really like the elegnt american...does the center band have smooth (or rough)edges where the gold meets the black recessed band.  I just turned one and the band feels rough when my hand slides across it, BB says that's the way its designed and I haven't heard back from Berea...really like the pen sizewize but the CB bothers me...
> again great job on the pens...
> bob



Bob,

That is one of the issues with that kit.  It does seem to vary slightly by kit, but all of the elegant americans seem to be a little sharp at the locations you marked.  

Good luck with Berea.

Fangar


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## bobm

Bob,

That is one of the issues with that kit.  It does seem to vary slightly by kit, but all of the elegant americans seem to be a little sharp at the locations you marked.  

Good luck with Berea.

Fangar
[/quote]


Fangar,
thanx for the info.
bob


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## malathan

After applying the thick CA, when it dries it becomes rough.  Is this normal or am I putting on too heavy a coat of CA?  I notice that using Viva paper towels seem to act as an accellerator so there is very little time to work the CA to get a very thin coat.  Just enough time to make 2 passes back and fourth with applicator.  Any more and it starts curing and paper towl sticks.


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## Fangar

Clayton,

I only do one pass with the coats of CA.  If you go back over it at all, you will get a rough and sometimes pitted surface.  The paper on the thic coat is used more to knock the ridges of the thick down into a smoother application.  When the two coats of thick harden, you will have some ripples.  That is what the sanding with the heavier grits after the application removes.  Basically, you are likely sanding through the second of the two coats you just applied to work it back to a mirror smooth surface.  Hope that helps.

I should also note that lately I have been omitting the Sanding sealer too.  I forgot a couple of times, and figured it looked the same without it.  I have done about 4 pens without it and have been just as happy with the results.  One less step is always good!

Fangar


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## malathan

My problem is that when CA is "wet", it is smooth.  When it dries, it feels like it was dipped in sand, pitted and rough.  I am assuming this is caused by one of following: too thick a layer of CA or temperature in garage where it sits curing (~50 degrees) or bad CA (Brand new bottle so don't suspect this).


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## Fangar

Not sure what might be causing that.  The temp is pretty cool to me, but usually resutls ina long cure time.  If you are using accelerator, that might be your issue.  If I do need to use acc, I only use the aersol, from a distance, and only after a couple of minutes.

Fangar


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## pssherman

Clayton,
I recently began using straight thin CA for a finish. I noticed that whenever I used an accelerator, the surface of the CA would wrinkle up. I tried to smooth it out by applying more layers of CA, but it just caused white spots when I sanded it smooth. I found that letting the CA cure without an accelerator produced a smoother finish, with some ripples that were easily sanded out.

Paul in AR


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## malathan

I have been letting it dry without accelerator.  Usually an hour or two between coats (cool garage + thick CA = long cure time).  I did find that using a thinner layer of CA (thick) helped.

When I put the CA on originally, I would drag the paper towel across the blank spreading/smoothing out the CA (pushing the bead of CA across).  I didn't use much force and the result was a smooth, but thick coat.  But as it dried, it got a grainy rough surface.  Sanding this off to be smooth actually broke through the coats of CA fairly fast.

After mm back to 12k, I put the CA (thick) on again.  This time I put more force on the paper towel as I rolled and smoothed the CA across the blank (one pass, from one side to another).  Result was a thinner coating, but a smoother surface as it dried.  Still some roughness that developed, so next test is to heat up garage a bit and/or immediately put the pen/mandrel in the house for drying.


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## Pipes

I tried this method and it works great I have changed it a bit thou I put on the sealer Mylands and then a a thin coat a CA it's dry right now then I put on the 2 thick coats a CA and use acc and polish it with Huts plastic polish and then I smooth it with a HI speed about 2500 RPM's with flannel rag  this normaly I have found results in a very smooth finish ,, normaly don't go use any white tripoli unless  need to take off the CA if I get to much ! thou some woods a act up and get spoty with DNA IMHO  I have found ! this happens I start over sand it off and NO DNA and wa la NO spots !I get the acc on asap so it keeps the finish like I left it ! I do heat my shop up good befor I start thou !!! the Huts polish and the flannel I have found are key to a smooth finish  again IMO gotta keep the flannel moving or you will melt the CA finish and have to buff it off and start over !
 I have also used a Clean buff nuten on it at all instead of the flannel I have a LOT a buffs I use so I have it right there and it is a clean flannel buff so its kina the same as the rag !I think the white tripoli might be dulling it a bit so I stoped that step !!!BUt if I get a ruff spot I have buffed it with white  and then cleaned it off and did another coat of CA and acc and then polished it with huts and the rag !!no dry time to speak of is involved I get this all done in about 15 min or less ....I use good paper towel and fold it up thick for everything never had a problem with them coming apart on the  material either !

another thing I have found is how well you sand a show up fast !! not going back with each grit the other way with the lathe off turning it by hand and you will get a RUFF finish with CA I have found and I JUST started using it ! NO CHEATING on the sanding using CA IMO !! 

fangars finish is fantastic I just modified it to fit me is all ! and Iam NO EXPERT  far from it !I used it and pecked around and found what works for me !! I like it... any finish doing a pipe tamper  or a pen that took hours to set up I would not do I like instant for small items  :O)and this imo is instant....[]


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## Dario

Just to bump this great thread [][]

BTW, Thanks James...I am probably one of those who pestered you about your finishing technique [:I]


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## Fangar

Dario,

You know that you are more than welcome.

Cheers,

Fangar


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## Dario

James,

Ever considered having this added to the library?  I am sure it will help a lot of penmakers in the future as well.  Just hate for it to get lost after a while.


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## gerryr

This should definitely be added to the library along with Wayne's Enduro method.  These like this should be easily accessible.


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## Fangar

Sounds like a good idea.  I am going to write up a better one with photos when I get some time.  

Fangar


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## shawn

What is the difference in using Hut Plastic Polish, and the Hut Perfect Pen Polish (PPP).  I have been using the Hut PPP with pretty good results.  Would the Plastic Polish provide a better finish?  Is the plastic polish more durable then the PPP?
Thanks
Shawn


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## wdcav1952

Shawn,

You will get disagreement on the subject of finishing, so understand that what follows is my opinion only.

The Hut Plastic Polish or similar products including automotive swirl remover are used to polish a finish such as CA, lacquer, or Enduro to name a few.

When I started, I used the PPP as a final step.  The results were acceptable, but do not last as a finish.  Check a pen on which PPP was the last thing used after a month or two of use.  Mine at least, were dull and unacceptable.

The best idea, (my opinion, remember) is to get your wood or acrylic pen finished with MicroMesh until the surface is as close to flawless as you can get it.  If acrylic, polish with a plastic polish and you are good to go.  If wood, follow Fangar's or Don Ward's CA technique, or Wayne's Enduro technique.  Once finished and MicroMeshed to a high gloss, lightly buff with a plastic polish for that final high shine.

OK, next we talk about Ren Wax or TSW. [8D]

I did mention that this is my opinion, didn't I?[]


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