# CA finish



## Fred in NC (Oct 26, 2004)

This is about finishing with CA. 

My understanding about CA (CyanoAcrylate) is that when the CA cures it becomes acrylic plastic.  Acrylic, of course, can be polished to a glass like surface.  

The drawbacks are, first the price, and then the way it is applied, since it cures very fast, and can glue whatever it comes in contact with, including bushings and your fingers.

There are other acrylic products in the market that are intended to be used as a finish, and are easier to apply and much cheaper.  Has anybody tried any of them ?


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## wayneis (Oct 26, 2004)

Name some, I'm ah we are always looking at finishes.  I can't think of any myself.

Wayne


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## C_Ludwigsen (Oct 26, 2004)

I'm not sure what other acrylic finish products are out there but I'm game to try them too.


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## Fred in NC (Oct 26, 2004)

One recent experiment.  I saw Krylon Clear Glaze, product 0500, at WalMart, and bought a can.  The front of the can says it is for ceramics, but the back lists wood as one of the possible uses. It also says that it is triple thick.

Sanded the barrels to 2,000 (eq. of 6,000 MM) and put them on a 'chopstick' (wood dowel).  Sprayed a wet coat, according the the instructions.  When it was dry, sprayed a second wet coat.  Let it dry overnight.  The surface was glossy, but not totally even.

Back to the lathe.  Used 2,000 wet and dry (dry) to level the finish. It came out flat and very shiny.  I just buffed on the lathe with a little wax on a rag.  I don't think anybody could tell the difference from a CA finish.  It is acrylic too.


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## DCBluesman (Oct 26, 2004)

Those of you inclined to try acrylic finishes may want to try something like Future.  It's got to be inexpensive and easy to apply. [8D]


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## Fred in NC (Oct 26, 2004)

Lou, thanks, but...

What is 'Future' ?


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## DCBluesman (Oct 26, 2004)

Floor "wax" for the no-finish floors like Armstrong solarian (which is acrylic, itself).


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## Daniel (Oct 26, 2004)

this thread brought to mind an experience I had with just how tough CA is. I was just piddpling away in my shop one day and poured a small puddle of ca on a metal table. gave it a shot of accelerator, and scraped the dried glue back off. I than had a solid piece of CA that I could run through a few tests. I twisted it bent it cut it and what have you. it would not tear, would barely cut. and never showed any discoloration from the bending and twisting, no white cloudy areas or anything. I was impressed. a lower cost alternative would be welcome though.


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## Guest (Nov 8, 2004)

drawbacks are, first the price, and then the way it is applied, since it cures very fast, and can glue whatever it comes in contact with, including bushings and your fingers.


I can agree that application is tricky at best,but when you consider that the pen is "done" when it comes off the lathe,it beats spraying and waiting.
Cost? I don't consider it that expensive compared with the results.
I still look out for and try new finishes but nothing comes close to a CA finish when it comes out right.


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## RPM (Nov 9, 2004)

This thread prompted me to do a few google searches.  I have not had the time to follow up on what I found, but maybe it might give some of you an idea.  One link that I followed lead me to a supplier of materials for nail salons.  Apparently there are acrylic finishes used for fancy nails.  They might provide a more cost effective, easier to use material.

I am new to penturning.  Is there a thread or a link that someone can point me to regarding finishing with CA.  I have no idea how it is done.
Richard


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## Rick Prevett (Nov 9, 2004)

Richard, if you return to the IAP homepage and look under the 'Articles' section, you'll see a report on CA Finishes.  This is one of many techniques used to apply CA as a finish.

rick


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2004)

> _Originally posted by DCBluesman_
> <br />Those of you inclined to try acrylic finishes may want to try something like Future.  It's got to be inexpensive and easy to apply. [8D]


Picked some up and going to try it,
Don't know about durability, water soluable[]


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## Fred in NC (Nov 11, 2004)

My experience with water bound acrylics has been good.  I am not a chemist, but my understanding is that acrylic changes the molecular structure, or polymerizes, when the solvent evaporates.

The walnut/blacwood pen that I carry in my pocket most of the time has a 'natural' finish (semi gloss).  I have not noticed any changes in the finish in over a year of daily use. I used MinWax PolyCrylic on it, which is water based.

The downside of using water borne acrylic, IMHO, is that it requires several coats.  My pen, if I remember correctly, had 6 coats of the finish.  They were applied with a little piece of lintless wiper, much in the way of a friction polish. It dries fairly quickly, and it tolerates the heat of a hair drier very well.  I use blonde shellac as a sealer after the 400 grit, with a light 400 sanding afterwards.  Then all the grits to 2500 which is the equivalent of 6000 MM.  The acrylic is then applied, with a hair dryer handy to speed up the drying, and a minute or so between coats.  

The finish on my lathe cabinet is also PolyCrylic Gloss over two coats of shellac used as a sealer.  It takes wear very well.

It looks like Future might be worth a try.


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## ryannmphs (Apr 15, 2005)

Fred,
Just curious, I picked up some PolyCrylic last month and tried it on a pen.  It was ok.  I think the problem was that I got kind that you spray on vs. wipe on.  What kind are you using?

Thanks
Ryan


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## Fred in NC (Apr 15, 2005)

Ryan, I don't use the spray PolyCrylic.

After sanding, I apply a coat with a little pad with the spindle on.  I use one generous drop on the pad, that is all!  I use very light pressure, this is not a friction finish. The coat needs to set, that takes a minute, and I can accelerate it by using a hair dryer gently.  The next coat is applied with the lathe off, wiping end to end, usually with the grain.  I repeat this about 3 times total, that is about 6 coats.  

I should mention that I use 4-6 mandrels, so I take the mandrel off the lathe, and work on another pen while the poly dries.  Also, it does not hurt to put more than one coat lengthwise off the lathe.  

Remember, I use blonde shellac as a sealer after sanding to 400, two coats is good, it dries very fast.  After that I sand to at least 2000 with wet/dry paper, but I use it dry.  Then I put the poly.


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## ryannmphs (Apr 15, 2005)

Thanks Fred!
I've got 5 mandrels so no problems there !

Ryan


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## Fred in NC (Apr 15, 2005)

Another very good finish.... Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze (acrylic).   Looks like glass if done properly.  

After sanding I take the barrels off the mandrel and put on wood dowels.  Spray a thick coat, and let dry.  Repeat 2-3 times.  After curing overnight, back to the lathe.  It will look glossy but not 'level' ... I level with 600 w/d, and then the finer MM grits to 12000.  Buff with TSW.  Cannot tell from a good CA finish.


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