# How in the heck do you finish prupleheart!



## jssmith3 (Mar 28, 2006)

Hi guys, this originally had lilac both top and bottom but I blew the bottom so just used some purpleheart I had.  I normally use a CA/BLO finish but with this purpleheart, I kept getting little white areas in the grain no matter how much I sanded with the MM.  I went back and sanded it all off and did the sandpaper slurry thing and repeated the CA/BLO finish and there still there!!!!   OK, I'm not liking purpleheart at this point. I had the same thing happen with some Ash I turned recently.  What am I doing wrong?  
Janet


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## Rifleman1776 (Mar 28, 2006)

Maybe you needed to clean with denatured alcohol to avoid spots. Do that and use a sanding sealer. Otherwise, I don't understand what might have gone wrong. Purpleheart finishes like most woods.


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## JimGo (Mar 28, 2006)

I agree with Frank; not sure what the problem could be.  I've done several Purpleheart pens without that particular problem.  Is your CA old?  Or are you using an accelerant?  Those can some times create a haze or white spots in the CA.


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## mrcook4570 (Mar 28, 2006)

Are the white areas appearing after sanding with MM?  And are the white areas more like white dust or a cloudy film?  If they are appearing as white dust after sanding with MM, I suspect that the grain has not been fully sealed.  Any open pores will grab the sanding residue.   Either apply more coats of CA (after cleaning with DNA) or start all over, taking care to seal all pores first.


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## rglinks (Mar 28, 2006)

Hi Janet
I used Fanger's method and I was really pleased with the finish I got using his method but my last 3 pens had spots that was cloudy and not glossy like the rest of the pen.

Will be watching this thread to see what I did wrong too.

Hope you fix your problem.  I've been fighting with this for the last week

Ron...


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## DCBluesman (Mar 28, 2006)

First, let me warn you that this is an <b>opinion</b>.  I don't claim it to be a fact, but I don't have these problems that many seem to experience with the magically appearing spots.

First, quit using DNA to clean wood.  Use compressed air.  Anything liquid has a chance of driving these little specs further into the grain, PLUS DNA has "junk" added to it.  Air, particularly blown at a couple of angles, should clean everything out.

Next, apply sanding sealer early and often on porous/grainy woods like cocobolo and purpleheart (and ash!).  320 is not too early (heck, right after you put your turning tools down is not too early)!  You will sand off all of the sealer except that which fills the grain anyway.

Last, CA/BLO will feel dry long before it has cured.  Give your finish time to finish...particularly between coats.

I hope this helps.


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## wdcav1952 (Mar 28, 2006)

Not a bad opinion, there Lou!  I agree with you, which makes two opinions that coincide. []


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## Pipes (Mar 28, 2006)

i GET THESE SPOTS WHEN i USE dna AROPUND AND ON MY WOOD !! sO i JUST USE MY AIR HOSE AND BLOW OFF THE DUST NOW AND THAT SEEMS TO WORK FINE !!iF YA DON'T HAVE THE AIR COMPRESSOR AROUND USE CANED AIR OR JUST WIPE IT OFF DRY THIS IS imho !! WHAT TO DO


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## gerryr (Mar 28, 2006)

"Canned" air is very expensive.  You can buy a cylinder at a lot of hardware store that will hold about 3-4 cubic feet of compressed air.  You just fill it at a gas station that has an air hose.  I also use one to blow out my sprinkler system in the fall.  The ones I have are made by Coleman.


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## jssmith3 (Mar 28, 2006)

Hi guys, thanks for all the ideas, its not cloudy or splotchy like that, its like the snding dust settled in the open grain,  I will try the sanding sealer and see if it helps. I will let everyone know how it turns out the next time I try it.
Have a great evening.
Janet


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## jssmith3 (Mar 29, 2006)

Hey DCBluesman, can I use the sealer that comes with the enduro stuff. I don't seem to like that way of finishing anyway so if I can at least use the sealer it would be great. I have nothing against the enduro system, its just it takes to long and I need the immediate gradification of a finish thats quick and great looking. 
thanks,
Janet


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## DCBluesman (Mar 29, 2006)

You bet, Janet!


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## jssmith3 (Mar 29, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DCBluesman_
> <br />You bet, Janet!



Thank you so much. I was hoping I wouldn't just watch this stuff go back from not using it.
Janet


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## JimGo (Mar 30, 2006)

Janet, you can always offer it up for sale in the individual classifieds.


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## arioux (Mar 31, 2006)

Hi, Janet,

You can use an artist brush.  The round one (sorry don't have the number at hand) do the job if you don't have a compressor.  It will take the dust out of the small hole.  Well it work fine for me. Using DNA could just make the dust penetrate more.  DNA is excellent for more oily wood but by definition the woods are already almost polished when you start sanding them and don't have those dust catcher inclusion.

Have a nice day

Alfred


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## airrat (Mar 31, 2006)

I use compressed air to clean out the grain.  I have stopped using BLO on alot of my pens due to the "cloudy" issue.  I don't seem to get that anymore.  I apply a couple coats of thin CA and let it sit for awhile before applying another.  The white specks I agree with others.  If your sanding and creating heat you can "melt" the sanded CA into those. IMO that is what it seems like.  I have lightened my touch now to reduce that.

These are just my way of doing it.


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## jdavis (Apr 4, 2006)

we clean with compressed air. Much nicer finish at the end


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## beaverfsu (Aug 29, 2006)

I have had this same issue with certain pieces of purple heart.  It was sanding dust getting in open grain.  Blow it out with a compressor.


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