# Mylands cellulose sealer/friction polish????



## Guest (Nov 24, 2004)

Decided to try this in conjuction with carnauba wax
Any one else using this?
Any tips?


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## Bev Polmanteer (Nov 24, 2004)

I use the sealer on the open woods like red or black palm and some other porus woods and use the friction polish on most of my other pens.  The secret that I have discovered for the friction polish is to get it REAL HOT.  I uas a rag folded about 6 times sith a piece of carpet backing behind it and hold that on until I feel the heat through the padding. This seems to make the polish stay real good. I can't do the CA finish and have found this looks even better to my liking. Hope this helps.(If it doesn't just pretend you never read it!! Haha)


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## Fred in NC (Nov 25, 2004)

Eagle, what kind of friction polish do you use?


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## Guest (Nov 25, 2004)

Mylands High Build.
It was highly recommended by the guys at Woodturningz though Fritz is partial to CA.
I wanted to try something that was a little faster than  a CA finish as I have a crafts show next week and need to put out  a lot of production.
A couple of weeks ago I saw a turner in Columbia who was using  a Penn State product.


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## PenWorks (Nov 25, 2004)

I have used both these products for the past year on about 75% of my pens. No complaints about the quality of finish and easy to use. Streaks less than some other friction polishes I tried. Works real good on stabilized woods. I just started using the Enduro Wayne recomended, only for the durability factor of the poly.


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## Guest (Nov 25, 2004)

I am running out of old holey "T" shirts and tried paper towels to apply the polish with no problems.
Are paper towels a normal material to use?


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## joeyh (Nov 25, 2004)

Eagle,
I'm new to pen turning, so I've only used friction polosh (Shellawax, and Mylands). Ive used papertowels exclusively since that is what PSI said to use in their pen turning DVD. Ive had mixed results but don't think that it's caused by the paper towel (generic). The polish seems to get cloudy, or flake off when the pen is used.Any ideas?
Michael


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## Daniel (Nov 25, 2004)

"Bounty Paper Towels"
I have seen it mentioned several times that it is Bounty that is the trick to satisfaction. I think they also make an automotive paper towel that is the same and only .99 a roll around here. But don't blame me if they don't work out.


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## PenWorks (Nov 25, 2004)

I am a rag man. Unless I had the wrong paper towels, they seem to streak for me and paper is an abrassive. With a rag, I feel like I am polishing it as well using the Mylands. Three kids still at home, so no problem with running out of holey socks. Happy Holidays


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## dougle40 (Nov 25, 2004)

Michael,
I use nothing but paper toweling to polish my pens and even though it may be considered an abrasive , I've heard that it's about the equivalent of MM 12,000 or even finer .
I've never used either of the 2 products that you mentioned , I exclusively use Lee Valley's Turners Polish which is available in the US as Behlans Woodworkers Polish , and have never had the problems that you're talking about .
The 1 thing that comes to mind though --- Are you applying enough pressure to the finish to build up the heat that is needed to properly set it ? 
I apply the finish while the lathe is turning and continue to rub it with the same piece of paper toweling until it comes up to a brilliant shine that way the heat generated allows the finish to penatrate the wood .


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## Guest (Nov 25, 2004)

Any ill effects from the "glazing" of the rag or towel?
One other thing.
Does anyone use the higher "grits" of MM on the sealer?
I seem to detect radial"rings" that I know are not from sanding, that I do meticulously.
I don't get them with CA.


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## joeyh (Nov 26, 2004)

Doug,
I start by applying the finish while the lathe is off, I then turn the lathe on while my paper towel (still wet from the polish)is in contact with the pen barrel.At first the lathe is running at its slowest speed until the polish begins to set up. I then tun the lathe speed all the way up and continue to polish until I acheive a high shine. At times I burn my fingers if I haven't folded the paper towel enough times. 
I'm wonsering... is there any certain length of time that I should wait before I assembly my pens?
Michael


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## dougle40 (Nov 26, 2004)

Michael,
I apply the finish while the lathe is running and at normal turning speed (1520 rpm) and continue at that speed until I get the shine that I want . Then I go straight to assembly . I have the habit of starting and finishing 1 pen at a time , including the assembly , but that's just my personal method , I find that IF there is some sort of problem occur , I can correct it before starting on another pen and possibly ruining it too .
As for any ill effects from the "glazing" of the paper toweling , I haven't experienced any , although sometimes the toweling has just as good a shine as the pen !!!
Also , I don't use any type of sealer with the finish that I use because it is a dual purpose finish , 1 coat seals and polishes all in one motion . Great time and money saver !


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## Bob A (Nov 26, 2004)

As far as radial rings and/or carnuba wax, in my experience (read very limited), you can us MM and buff with wax but the friction polish needs time to harden.  I've gone straight from the mandrel to the buffer with disastrous results.  Same with the MM.  I think overnight would be best but I'm the impatient sort and have gotten good results within a couple of hours.

Edit in:  My limited experience also taught me that if you do use MM on friction polish you will almost certainly have to buff with wax.

Bob


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## woodwish (Nov 27, 2004)

I use Mylands FP and love it.  I have tried other finshs but it seems that Friction Polish is quick and easy.  I tried paper towels and just made a mess so I went back to rags.  If you look in the paint dept of most stores they have big boxes of white t-shirt scraps for staining and cleaning up.  I bought one box years ago and I have barely made a dent in it, and it sure is easier than stealing the neighbor kid's t-shirt off the laundry lines!  Another thing I have learned is to very carefully set the polished parts aside for a day or two before I assemble, the polish seems to dry harder with some time.

I have also used several coats of Tung Oil on non-oily woods with good results, but won't ever harden/dry on woods like Cocobola.


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## woodbutcher (Dec 6, 2004)

I find when using the Mylands friction polish it pays to let the finish harden several days before delivering the finished product. I assemble anytime from right off the lathe to several days later.[]


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## Guest (Dec 6, 2004)

> _Originally posted by woodbutcher_
> <br />I find when using the Mylands friction polish it pays to let the finish harden several days before delivering the finished product. I assemble anytime from right off the lathe to several days later.[]



What are the benifits of waiting several days?


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## woodwish (Dec 6, 2004)

I also wait a few days from habit.  Sometimes there is a spot or two that may not be as hard and allowing it to sit will let it harden all over.  It seems the friction polish really works because the heat from friction will evaporate the volatiles rapidly and allow the solids to harden.  All finishes work the same way, and if allowed to sit the volatiles will evaporate eventually.  I feel that the friction polishes only really harden on the surface, and if given a few days it will get much harder as it "dries" completly.  I'm not a chemist so this is all just my theory, make sense to anyone else?


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## Fred in NC (Dec 6, 2004)

I don't know about days, but my experience is that I have to wait before I handle a friction polish finished pen.  Since I don't know how to take them off the mandrel without handling them, I just set the whole thing aside to dry.  I guess I could handle them with a dry and clean rag.  

No matter the kind of finish used, I found a great advantage in having more than one mandrel available.


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## DCBluesman (Dec 6, 2004)

All finishes have two different times...drying and curing.  While a finish may dry almost immediately, the curing process can take a day or two, depending on the type of finish.  Without naming names, products that use shellac typically dry very quickly.  Truth be known, the shellac often takes 24-48 hours to cure.  That has caused some folks problems when they use a mechanical buffer at high speeds.  The uncured lacquer softens and the finish can be damaged.  FYI, carnauba typically takes 12-24 hours to cure.


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