# Help need on Jacobs chuck



## swirlman (Apr 26, 2006)

Have turned a couple dozen pens and I am wanting to turn some closed end Baron's. I need a chuck for my lathe but what do I need to get? I have a cheapie Craftsman Mini lathe made especially for pen turning and not much else but it's all I need for right now. It has a 1MT taper on headstock and tailstock. Question is-- can I put a Jacobs 1MT chuck in the head stock to do the closed end pens? Sears says their 1MT Jacobs chuck goes in the tailstock only which leaves me totally confused as to how that would work. Help set me strait on this issue if you could please.

Thanks, George R


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## Skye (Apr 26, 2006)

From what I've seen, yes you can. Just use a pin chuck in the jacobs chuck.

Fangar's pin chucks:

http://www.mannmadecreations.com/pinchucks.html


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## JimQ (Apr 26, 2006)

Unless you have a way to secure it through the headstock, the Jacobs chuck goes on the tailstock.  The MT1 doesn't really lock into the socket.  I wouldn't want to have it come flying out while it was spinning, could be messy.  The MT2 on my Jacobs chuck has threads on the inside of the end so I could use a piece of threaded rod to secure it in the headstock, but I haven't seen that on a MT1.  Chucks for the headstock are generally attached by using the threaded spindle.

JimQ


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## knottyharry (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi George,
I'm not an authority on this by any means, but I think a 1MT is a 1MT. They use the taper chucks for drill presses, etc. I just don't see where it shouldn't work.
The only thing I could possibly think of is maybe a length issue. Is the headstock open all the way through, where you can put a spur drive in it? And then knock it out if need be. If it is then it should work IMHO.
Harry


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## pssherman (Apr 27, 2006)

I have an old Craftsman lathe with 1MT headstock and tailstock. I got the Jacobs chuck and it fits the tailstock but not the headstock. This is because the diameter of the headstock is a little larger than the tailstock. A shoulder on the arbor prevents it from fully seating in the headstock. I think that if the shoulder was ground off then it would fully seat. BTW, the 1MT arbor for the Jacobs chuck that I have is threaded for a drawbar. Hope this explains why Sears says the Jacobs chuck is only for the tailstock.

Paul in AR


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## gerryr (Apr 27, 2006)

WARNING!!!  Whatever you buy, do not buy a Jacobs chuck from Sears.  The chuck itself hangs out on a threaded rod a good 3/4" from the MT adapter.  The thing had so much runout it was unbelievable.  Check Harbor Freight, more solid and a much better price.


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## opfoto (Apr 27, 2006)

I'll second the motion on the chuck. I went back and forth between the sears and the HF. Chose the HF. So far so good with no problems. I think it was on sale as well. Can't speak to the runout tho' I don't have an accurate way to measure that.


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## Cowboy (Apr 27, 2006)

If you use a jacob chuck, make sure you can insert a rod through the headstock to secure it.  There should be a threaded insert in the end of the MT.  In my experience, a morse taper will come loose with the side pressure of turning, unlike a drill which "presses" the MT together.

Chris


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## Max (Apr 27, 2006)

I'm pretty new at turning, and this whole jacob chuck thing is really confusing me.  I have a Delta midi and I bought a 2MT jacob chuck (from Little Machine Shop) so I could drill my blanks on the lathe.  For that, I use the chuck in the tailstock and it has worked fine.  

But I'm confused about how I would use the chuck in the headstock -  I don't quite understand how I'm supposed to secure it??  There is a very small hole in the end of the chuck's MT, but it doesn't look like it's threaded.  Can anyone explain this a bit more??

Thanks,
Max


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## Fangar (Apr 27, 2006)

I use a jacobs chuck on my jet mini in the headstock to hold my pin chucks.  A taper is disgned to press firmly into place.  For the majority of the turning with a closed end pen, the live center is up against the stock, which adds to the stability of the jacobs chuck.  Ultimately, the live center is removed and the end of the closed end pen can be turned to shape, sanded and finished without issue.  I have found no need to use anything to hold the MT2 jacobs in postion when using them this way.  A MT1 should be identical, only a smaller size.  

Cheers,

Fangar


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## Max (Apr 27, 2006)

Thanks Fangar,

That's exactly what I wanted to know...for using your pin chucks...

-Max


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## swirlman (Apr 27, 2006)

WOW!!!, this is alot of good and very important info. I never thought that the taper on the chuck arbor would come loose but that makes sence. With no pressure on the chuck while doing the final closed end it could very easly come out. My head stock is open thru to the end but I see now way that the tapered arbor could be secured since the arbor is a solid taper which just fits into the headstock receiver. Also I never considered the runout that it would generate while turning. You guys have just saved me about $50 bucks, hey I think I'll take that $50 and put it on a better lathe. Thanks for sharing.

George R


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## Cowboy (Apr 28, 2006)

George:

Some MT adapters will have a threaded hole in the end, for example the MT 2 adapter for the Beall Buff has a 1/4" x 20 hole.  My Jacobs chuck does not have a thread either and as a result will not use it in the headstock.  I use a Beall Collet chuck instead of a jacobs chuck anyway.  I only use my jacob chuck for drilling from the tailstock.


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## Fangar (Apr 28, 2006)

On a side note about tapers...

If you seem to be having more issues over time with your Morse Taper wiggling free, you likely have a dirty taper socket.  Get one of those "green weenie" squeegies.  You should be able to press your morse taper into position with firm hand pressure only.  It should be very hard to remove after that, usually requireing a knock out rod (Included with jst lathes). If you have to use a mallet or hammer to set the taper, something is wrong.  When you do this hammering on the taper, you are also banging your bearings which will ultimately lead to their failure. 

I just got a green weenie for my MT2.  I was begining to have issues with my MT2 seating properly.  Some veru fine debirs was removed and now it seats firm again.

Cheers,

Fangar


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## Randy_ (Apr 29, 2006)

> _Originally posted by swirlman_
> <br />.....You guys have just saved me about $50 bucks, hey I think I'll take that $50 and put it on a better lathe......



George: What kind of a lathe do you have??  Maybe you should put that $50 towards a scroll chuck??

OOPS!!  Went back and read the original post.  Forget the above suggestion.  If the lathe is anything like I think it is maybe an upgrage "IS" a better use of your funds.  Is the headstock spindle threaded??  What is the thread size.  If it is a standard size, so that a chuck could be transferred to an upgrade lathe at a later date, then a scroll chuck might still be a good idea.


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## Randy_ (Apr 29, 2006)

> _Originally posted by swirlman_
> <br />..... I have a cheapie Craftsman Mini lathe made especially for pen turning and not much else.....



George:  I'm not familiar with that lathe.  Any chance you could post a picture??  Thanks.


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## swirlman (May 1, 2006)

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922106000 You should be able to go to this site to view the Sears lathe I have, designed mainly for turning pens.


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## Randy_ (May 2, 2006)

Thanks, George.  Maybe that lathe is the reason Jet quit selling theirs.  It looks like a better machine and less money??


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## EasyGreasy (May 3, 2006)

My old Shopsmith comes with a Jacobs chuck on the headstock. It attaches to a post with a setscrew. Does anyone have a shopsmith with any other config. Someday I may get a hankering to turn a bowl and would need another setup. Any suggestions.

Shopsmith.com    oh...never mind

Cheers


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## wudwrkr (May 3, 2006)

You can get a 5/8" adapter for most chucks on the market. You do not have to go with the Shopsmith brand if you don't want to.


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