# Skip's Multi-function Bushing Mandrels



## skiprat (Mar 15, 2010)

Here's what I've been working on for the last few days.:biggrin:

As I've got a metal lathe, it would be silly not to make my own bushes and stuff. But I wanted to go a step further than just making them a bit more accurate than stock bushings. Here are the changes I made...

1. Make them out of stainless steel. This would make them last longer, be more rigid, and less 'black' crud while wet sanding.
2. The outside 'finished' diameter to be long enough to be held in a chuck, but also 60deg end drilled for turning between centres. Also so that a special short tool rest isn't needed.
3. The inside portion(s) to almost fill the tube. This keeps the blank square even if the ends of the blank aren't pefectly squared. This works particularly well with pre-cast tubed blanks. Even if the ends are way off square, it is held parallel to the tube. Once the outside of the blank is made parallel to the tube, it is easy to re-chuck the blank and square the ends with a scraper or skew. 
4. With capped pens, there is a flat surface to take a rubber o-ring to make closed ended pens. ( Like my old design )


I've made them for the Baron series ( Baron, Sedona, Navigator, Typhoon ), Jr series ( Gent, Statesman, Retro ) , Sierra (Click and Original), Aero, and Long Clicker. 
I've made 3 sets so far, 1 has been spoken for, I'm keeping the first ( rough:redface set and the last set '*could*' be up for grabs here if there is enough interest. Watch this space:wink: Just waiting for a technological breakthrough solution by our trusty leaders:biggrin:
If my lathe was CNC, then I'd also offer them for sale, but it's hard boring work so I'll just periodically make a set and just offer them for a trade for stuff.

LOL, just remember when you see these elsewhere, :wink::tongue: who made them first!!!.:biggrin: Copyright my a.....!!!:biggrin:


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## lazylathe (Mar 15, 2010)

Very nice work!!!

I gots to get me some of those!!!!:biggrin:

Hopefully i can make it to metal supermarket sometime soon!!

Quick question:
How do you drill the 60 degree in the ends??
Do you use a 60 degree center drill or cut it on the metal lathe?

Thanks for the inspiration!!

Andrew


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## David M (Mar 15, 2010)

nice, and your right they should be coppied. i would also like a  set once there cnc ed


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## skiprat (Mar 15, 2010)

lazylathe said:


> Very nice work!!!
> 
> I gots to get me some of those!!!!:biggrin:
> 
> ...


 
Andrew, be like me and raid a skip for stock :biggrin: Too many people throw good stuff out for anyone to ever have to buy it:wink:

The ends are 60deg centre drilled then the parts are turned to size around these centres to keep them true.  It's tough on lathe bearings to turn stainless between centres ( you have to really tighten the tailstock )and my next investment will definately be a collet chuck. My 3 and 4 jaw chucks are pretty 'close', but I wanted these to be spot on.


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## stolicky (Mar 15, 2010)

Good idea.  I like it; and them....


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## lazylathe (Mar 15, 2010)

Thanks SkipRat!
I will check the skips around my work!

Another question...
I decided to measure my stock kit bushings.
Wrote all the numbers down and then started to compare them to actual kit parts.
What i found was that all the bushings are slightly smaller than the kit parts.

I work in metric so i do not understand inches at all, especially when you get into fractions...

For example:
My Sierra bushings measured: 11,95mm and 9.82mm
The Sierra parts measured: 12.04mm and 12.00..

Is this kind of the norm??
Space to build up a finish??

Not too sure which measurements to use.
I know the logical one is the actual kit parts but there has to be an explanation as to why the bushings are slightly undersized??

Andrew


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## mbroberg (Mar 15, 2010)

What a great idea Skip.  You never cease to amaze me.


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## PaulDoug (Mar 15, 2010)

Excellent idea.  One more reason I need to save up for a metal lathe.  What fun to make your own stuff.  Would one of those little Tig lathes do this kind of stuff?


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## bitshird (Mar 15, 2010)

Skip you like Stainless a lot more than I do,  Copyright my a.....!!! Having never seen your a.....!!!! I'm not sure I would want to copyright it.
 I do like the idea of the longer inner and outer surfaces, Mayhaps I shall make me a few sets, not that I ever get time to dilly dally around making silly writing instruments, is it fun making pens?? I've forgotten how, my dog hair edition was the last pen I made,and it was UGLY.


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## bitshird (Mar 15, 2010)

PaulDoug said:


> Excellent idea.  One more reason I need to save up for a metal lathe.  What fun to make your own stuff.  Would one of those little Tig lathes do this kind of stuff?



Paul, a Taig or Sherline would be perfect, I'd go with Taig though, (just brand loyalty)


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## skiprat (Mar 15, 2010)

lazylathe said:


> Thanks SkipRat!
> I will check the skips around my work!
> 
> Another question...
> ...


 
To be honest, I don't think stock bushes are a million miles away for most of us ( me included ) , at least on the 'finished' size. Many people measure the bushes and compare with the actual part and then 'allow' for the difference when turning/ sanding/finishing. Most of us are very happy if it passes the 'fingernail' test. I believe the biggest bugbear is the *inside* measurement and the lack of length of it.  When a stock bushing is sloppy in the tube, but the blank cracks because there is a tiny amount of glue in the tube, then there is a real quality problem. This is (IMHO ) the biggest cause of OOR problems. A good bushing shouldn't be able to be fitted unless the tube is clean. 

Although we pay good money for kits, we need to remember that *ALL* kits are mass produced in Tiawan ROC. Even the statement 'Iridium Point Germany' is absolute rubbish. Sometimes parts are really difficult to press in and later on the same kit, they may need glue. I find this a lot on the Baron series, often tight on the body but too loose on the cap.

...right, I'm going to bed:biggrin:


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## PaulDoug (Mar 15, 2010)

Thanks Ken and thanks for spelling it correctly, I knew I was wrong when I look at it.


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## RyanNJ (Mar 15, 2010)

Very Nice work


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## jocat54 (Mar 15, 2010)

Okay, another dumb question. Is a "skip" the trash?


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## Mr Vic (Mar 16, 2010)

*It Figures*

Skip....
Your'e a day late and a dollar short. Wanted to make a letter opener with a small antler prong. Had to be closed ended. Having recalled a tutorial,, I looked it up and did it my way. Instead of a bold I used a 12" landscape spike(big a*** nail)...

If I waited a day I could have tried to talk you  out of the third set..Oh well...

As a quick tip to all..browse through all the tutorials even if they don't apply to you interest or current projects...You never know when you'll hav an AhAAA moments an recall one....

Thanks Skippy


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## dogcatcher (Mar 16, 2010)

I used the same basic system except I made the bushing to fit a 60degree center and/or a collet chuck.  Posted it in this thread.  http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?p=958114#post958114


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## BigShed (Mar 16, 2010)

Very neat idea there Skippy.

What are some of the dimensions (length only) of the top 2 bushing mandrels? The middle stepped bush in particular seems very long.

Like the idea of having stainless steel bushes, might have to brush up on my stainless turning skills.


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## skiprat (Mar 16, 2010)

BigShed said:


> Very neat idea there Skippy.
> 
> What are some of the dimensions (length only) of the top 2 bushing mandrels? The middle stepped bush in particular seems very long.
> 
> Like the idea of having stainless steel bushes, might have to brush up on my stainless turning skills.


 
I did the middle bit like that for a few reasons. Main one was so they could be held in a chuck around this point for doing closed ended or just one blank at a time. Another was so as not to need a special short tool rest.
They 'worked out' at around 35mm per step. I say 'worked out' because my stock is similar length threaded rods. I'd centre drill the ends, rough off the threads, then one side would be turned ( rough)to the cap diameter and the other side to the max body diameter.  Then I'd chop a bit off each end for the small bushes. Re-centre drill and then turn to final size between centres. :biggrin:


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## randyrls (Mar 16, 2010)

skiprat said:


> I did the middle bit like that for a few reasons. Main one was so they could be held in a chuck around this point for doing closed ended or just one blank at a time. Another was so as not to need a special short tool rest.



Steven;  I have made some of my own between-center bushings and I tend to make the tube portion at least 1/2" (13mm).

PS.  Some info I just figured out.  I have an Imperial (inch) cross feed on my lathe.  But a metric compound.  Since my brain is programmed in inches, I did this calculation.
Set compound to 5.83 degrees and 1 mark on the compound is .0001"
Set compound to 30.54 degrees and 1 mark on the compound is .0005"

I only use these for finishing cuts.  I is satisfying to hear the "pop" when removing the bushings!


Dang;  I typoed the angle on the second line.  It should be 30.54 NOT 2.054.


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## skiprat (Mar 16, 2010)

randyrls said:


> I is satisfying to hear the "pop" when removing the bushings!


 

LOL, I smiled when I saw that!!! :wink:I love the springy air compression when they go in too:biggrin:


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## NewLondon88 (Mar 16, 2010)

bitshird said:


> Paul, a Taig or Sherline would be perfect, I'd go with Taig though, (just brand loyalty)



.. and remember to change out that 1/32 hp motor for a 200 hp Caterpillar :tongue:


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## NewLondon88 (Mar 16, 2010)

I love it when someone solved several issues at once..

What sort of trade are you thinking of? I have a laser and I know how to dicker..


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## BigShed (Mar 16, 2010)

skiprat said:


> I did the middle bit like that for a few reasons. Main one was so they could be held in a chuck around this point for doing closed ended or just one blank at a time. Another was so as not to need a special short tool rest.
> They 'worked out' at around 35mm per step. I say 'worked out' because my stock is similar length threaded rods. I'd centre drill the ends, rough off the threads, then one side would be turned ( rough)to the cap diameter and the other side to the max body diameter.  Then I'd chop a bit off each end for the small bushes. Re-centre drill and then turn to final size between centres. :biggrin:



Thanks for that Steven, have just come in from the shed for lunch after having made my first set of Skippy's bushing mandrels.

I started with a set of Sierra bushes, as I wasn't too confident about my stainless skills. As it turned out it went OK, I made the inside the tube part of the bush 25mm long and the outside part as well. Centre drilled them with a #4 centre drill and tested them on the wood lathe, worked very well indeed.

BTW, I used my ER25 collet chuck for these, got that from Chronos in the UK (you can feed up to 16mm stock through that, mounted on a M39x4 backplate from Litte Machine Shop in the US, it's getting to be a small world!)

Now for the Jr Gent ones...........


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## broitblat (Mar 17, 2010)

It looks like a lot of nice ideas went into those bushings.

Here's another thought I've had, although I don't have the skills or tools to try it.  I've always thought it would be nice if the bushings were the same shape/angle as the respective nib or finial they are standing in for.  That way it would be easier to shape the barrels to flow smoothely with the shape of the components.  Does that make sense?

  -Barry


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## NewLondon88 (Mar 17, 2010)

broitblat said:


> I've always thought it would be nice if the bushings were the same shape/angle as the respective nib or finial they are standing in for.  That way it would be easier to shape the barrels to flow smoothely with the shape of the components.  Does that make sense?



makes perfect sense to me.. even had a discussion with someone about
this last year sometime. But some of the tapers would leave you with
very short bushings as they'd get too thin pretty quickly with that much
of a taper. Also seems like there isn't a huge market for them.


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## workinforwood (Mar 17, 2010)

Those are great looking bushings Steve.  I have to buy most of the metal I use.  You can't get anywhere's close to a dumpster containing metal without getting arrested around here.  Heck, the Aluminum company has camera's in every direction around the plant and down the street to keep people away from their scrap bin.  Any kind of metal is big business.


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## keithkarl2007 (Mar 17, 2010)

Sweet, do you have an idea how much they would cost to purchase. Defo interested in the Sierra, Statesmen bushings and Long Click


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