# Stabilized Wood



## VisExp (Jan 28, 2010)

This was my first time working with stabilized pen blanks.  I got them from Exotic Blanks.  Very different to turning regular wood blanks, but I was impressed and can see myself turning stabilized wood on a more regular basis.  The blanks all drilled and turned great, and I was deliberately being aggressive when turning.  The one that impressed me the most was the spalted hackberry.  Not only was it crosscut, but it also had the pith going through it.  Without stabilization I'm sure it would have been a bear to turn!

After turning them down to size I dyed them using TransTint dyes.  



Zen - Dyed red Splated Hackberry
Zen - Dyed blue Spalted Crabapple
Elegant Sierra - Dyed green Box Elder Burl
Elegant Sierra - Dyed yellow Box Elder Burl


----------



## bgibb42 (Jan 28, 2010)

They all look great, but that spalted crabapple is stunning!


----------



## mrcook4570 (Jan 28, 2010)

Mighty fine looking pens.


----------



## Dalecamino (Jan 28, 2010)

All nice pens Keith . I like the dye . Fit and finish right on . Nice work !


----------



## Dan26 (Jan 28, 2010)

Sharp looking pens. I like...


----------



## johncrane (Jan 28, 2010)

Keith! they all look fantastic, it makes it very hard too pick one from the bunch,but  l think the yellow Box Elder 
does it for me also great job with the dyes.


----------



## gvanweerd (Jan 28, 2010)

I LIke the cranberry. Heck I like them all.    Thumbs UP!


----------



## David Keller (Jan 28, 2010)

nice looking pens...  I think your yellow box elder may actually be buckeye burl, but it's beautiful either way.


----------



## hewunch (Jan 28, 2010)

Great looking stuff Keith. Did you put a "finish" on them? If so, what did you use? Also, I am sure it is a camera trick, so forgive me for bringing it up, but the Zens look over turned at the end.


----------



## wdcav1952 (Jan 28, 2010)

Beautiful!!  +1 for the spalted crabapple.


----------



## robutacion (Jan 28, 2010)

Hi Peoples,

Certainly a stunning group of pens...!

What I'm very curious about, is the stabilization method and products use by those industrial wood stabilizers...??? I have tried a few times to have someone in that industry to have the courage to tells us a little more about it but, so far no one come forward!:frown:

The puzzling thing, and from my view point that have never seen personally or turned any of that type of stabilized product (blanks/timber) as it seems to be done specifically in the USA, reading the reactions from those that turn those pre-stabilized blanks, it appears that they become a mix between wood and acrylic, reason why some claim to finish them as they do with acrylics only.  In any case, the only product that I know available in Australia as a wood hardener (stabilizer), does not "transform" the blanks in any sort of acrylic, instead and after completely soaked and pressurized under 80 PSI, the blanks after they dry, do not feel any different that the normal wood would feel.  If anything, the blanks still is too fragile to play silly games with it, and it will break if care is not taken.  The turning surface of the treated blank is still soft to a point where I feel a lot more confident in not using any gauges but the grinder instead, with the 4" "stepped" sanding disks of different grits possible depending of what you are shaping!

In resume, I don't believe that the products and system used in the USA for commercial wood stabilization, are not even remotely identical to the one I know and use.  I wonder if those in the US that stabilize their own blanks from the products available to then in common hardware stores, do finish the same way as those done commercially and purchase in the pen shops...???

I really would like to know more about this...!:biggrin:

Cheers
George


----------



## rjwolfe3 (Jan 28, 2010)

Gorgeous!


----------



## mrburls (Jan 28, 2010)

Beautiful work Keith. I use almost all stabilized blanks for my pens made from wood. I like the way they turn and finish. 

Keith "mrburls"


----------



## toolcrazy (Jan 29, 2010)

They are defiantly some fine lookers. I can't decide on a fave. But I agree, the Zen's look over turned.


----------



## Rum Pig (Jan 29, 2010)

I like the Hackberry partly because I just turned some fore the first time and second because black and red are my football teams colours:biggrin:

All your pens look great well done


----------



## Bree (Jan 29, 2010)

Those are 5-Star plus pens.  Just stunning.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


----------



## Mrs Rojo22 (Jan 29, 2010)

Beautiful!

Robin


----------



## VisExp (Jan 29, 2010)

Thanks very much for the comments everyone!



hewunch said:


> Great looking stuff Keith. Did you put a "finish" on them? If so, what did you use? Also, I am sure it is a camera trick, so forgive me for bringing it up, but the Zens look over turned at the end.



No camera trick Hans.  You're right, the blanks are over turned at the end and I don't mind you bringing it up at all   When I first ordered the kits I forgot to order bushings :redface:  I figured out that the Zen bushings were the same as the larger of the lower barrel bushings on a Jr. Gent.  So since I had two old sets of the Jr Gent bushings I was using those bushings to turn the Zens.  Well the sets are really old and one of the bushings must be pretty worn out.  I neglected to use my calipers to double check and only found the mistake when I came to assemble the bushings.  I'm still kicking myself, especially given how nice the red spalted hackberry came out.  On the plus side, I know have another personal pen :wink:

I finished all the blanks with straight CA.


----------



## PR_Princess (Jan 30, 2010)

Keith, I love your dye job on these! Your colors are simply wonderful!!

BTW It sounds like you have way too many personal pens...
I'll help. I know just where you can send that red one!! :tongue::biggrin:


----------



## PR_Princess (Jan 30, 2010)

robutacion said:


> Certainly a stunning group of pens...!
> 
> What I'm very curious about, is the stabilization method and products use by those industrial wood stabilizers...??? I have tried a few times to have someone in that industry to have the courage to tells us a little more about it but, so far no one come forward!:frown:



George, all of these blanks were stabilized by Jim (Druid here on the IAP)....And I think that he does an excellent job!!! :worship::biggrin:

Try sending him a PM with your questions. I am sure that he will be happy to help you in what ever way he can.


----------



## VisExp (Jan 31, 2010)

PR_Princess said:


> Keith, I love your dye job on these! Your colors are simply wonderful!!
> 
> BTW It sounds like you have way too many personal pens...
> I'll help. I know just where you can send that red one!! :tongue::biggrin:



Thanks Dawn 

You're right, I do have too many personal pens.  All the rejects become my personal pens :frown: :biggrin:


----------



## maxman400 (Jan 31, 2010)

Fantastic Pens, I like red especially.


----------



## louisbry (Jan 31, 2010)

Keith, I really love your pens.  Would you mind sharing your process of dyeing "stabalized" blanks?


----------



## workinforwood (Jan 31, 2010)

I couldn't pick a favorite...all those pens are drool worthy!


----------



## cschimmel (Jan 31, 2010)

Those are great,  I want to try it now.


----------



## VisExp (Jan 31, 2010)

louisbry said:


> Keith, I really love your pens.  Would you mind sharing your process of dyeing "stabalized" blanks?



Louis, I use the TransTint dyes mixed with DNA.  You can read more about how I do this at http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/11/30/dyeing-for-color/  Normally I would just wipe it on the pen blank, with the lathe running slowly, using a paper towel, much like applying CA.  With the stabilized wood I found that I was pretty much wiping it off as fast as I was wiping it on!  It was not penetrating into the wood, because of the stabilization.  

So I just ran the lathe as slow as I could and gently poured the dye on using a squeeze bottle.  Then I left the lathe running and allowed the dye to dry on the blank.  I did stop the lathe occasionally and allow the excess dye solution to "puddle" in one spot on the underside of the blank.  Then I held a cloth to that "puddle" and absorbed it off the blank, before starting the lathe up again.  Because the dye was mixed in alcohol it did not take long to dry, 10 minutes at most, and did not raise the grain significantly.  Once dry I applied the CA finish.  

So the dye is primarily sitting on top of the wood as opposed to being absorbed into the wood.  

Hope this helps you.


----------



## louisbry (Feb 1, 2010)

Thanks Keith.  Your explanation helps a lot.  Think I will try.   When I dye unstabalized spalted blanks, the dye absorbs too well, not leaving the effects you obtained with the crabapple.


----------

