# Advice on what skew to buy



## mecompco (Jun 20, 2015)

Planning on picking up a wood lathe tomorrow (have never used one, all experience thus far has been with the metal lathe). The skew seems like the most versatile tool (with a learning curve, I understand) to get and I'd like a good one. Sorby seems to be well respected, but if other brands are similar, I don't mind saving money. They seem to come in many sizes, what size do you all like? Thanks for any input!

Regards,
Michael


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## TonyL (Jun 20, 2015)

You will get several dozen answers and they are all correct in one way or another especially for the turners who prefers the skew he/she uses.

I have Sorbey, and Benjamin's best, bur now I only use these:

D-Way Tools - Fine Woodturnings by Dave His gouge and skew...

I asked this a few months ago and received some outstanding advice.

I will find the link and include.

Again, dozens of choices.

Enjoy the journey!


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## TonyL (Jun 20, 2015)

Here's the link...when I had the same question. That doesn't mean that new information is not available; I am just helping you find the link...it contained some great advice.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/hss-recommendations-127364/


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## SkookumPens (Jun 20, 2015)

I second D-Way Tools. Excellent tools and an excellent turner.
Craig Chatterton 
Puyallup, WA


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## TonyL (Jun 20, 2015)

I will say this. I sharpen my gouge and skew before every single blank that I turn on a his CBN wheel and a leather strop on a belt sander. I don't know if that is right or wrong, but it takes me less than 30 seconds to sharpen both, and I like the feel of using a freshly sharpened gouge/skew. I am sure many will think this is too much and unnecessary..it probably is, but that is my preference. .


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## low_48 (Jun 21, 2015)

I like the 3/4" Sorby oval skew. Also, you can't beat a Thompson tool.


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## mecompco (Jun 21, 2015)

Thanks for the info, guys. Tony, I'll find your thread (should have searched in the first place, duh!). Those D-Way blades look awesome, BTW. Yes, I have to watch some vids on sharpening. I do have a bench grinder, two belt grinders, diamond, ceramic, hard Arkansas stones, and a straight razor strop so I ought to be able to get the job done.


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## TonyL (Jun 21, 2015)

I started with and loved the 3/4 inch sorbey oval skew, and then gave the Benjamin's Best a try, and for some reason liked it better  Despite owning a bunch of sharpEning devives, I really struggled to re sharpen and get a consistent and symmetrical angle on the oval skews.  I read a ton of forum posts and bought a video, and still struggled. However, I am sure that I'm in the minority. I also posted a thread,  about that  

No worries on not looking things up. I don't  LOL  New ideas are posted all the time and are not always captured on earlier posts. I prefer just to ask.     btw, I also liked the sorbey spindle master. But have nt used much other than the dways that I reference above and in my signature block.


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## stonepecker (Jun 21, 2015)

My advice for what it is worth..........
If you have never used a skew, DON'T spend big money on the first one.

I got PSI's skews for around $15.00 to learn with.  Works just like the others and was more in my price range for a beginning skew.   I have used others and they are no better then this one.  Perfect for learning how to use it without breaking the bank.

It has become my "go to" skew before any others.


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## mecompco (Jun 21, 2015)

stonepecker said:


> My advice for what it is worth..........
> If you have never used a skew, DON'T spend big money on the first one.
> 
> I got PSI's skews for around $15.00 to learn with.  Works just like the others and was more in my price range for a beginning skew.   I have used others and they are no better then this one.  Perfect for learning how to use it without breaking the bank.
> ...



Hmm, my Yankee thriftyness (cheapness) likes that idea, but I do appreciate good steel. I admit that I don't know much about HSS. If I had a working forge to do the heat treat, I'd just make a skew--I've got about four feet of 1084 quarter inch high carbon steel on hand. Thanks for the input!

Regards,
Michael


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## BSea (Jun 21, 2015)

I started with an oval skew (Sorby).  Like Tony, I struggle to sharpen it.  I bought a Thompson skew (flat) last Christmas, and I like it a lot.  It's much easier to sharpen.  But when I get the oval skew sharp, it cuts as well as the Thompson.


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## MillerTurnings (Jun 21, 2015)

I prefer a full size skew, easier to hang onto and use for me. The little ones got too "grabby", and had less room for error.


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## plantman (Jun 21, 2015)

stonepecker said:


> My advice for what it is worth..........
> If you have never used a skew, DON'T spend big money on the first one.
> 
> I got PSI's skews for around $15.00 to learn with.  Works just like the others and was more in my price range for a beginning skew.   I have used others and they are no better then this one.  Perfect for learning how to use it without breaking the bank.
> ...



I agree with stonepecker, Don't go out and spend top dollar for your first set of learning tools !! Almost any set of tools will do a good job of turning if properly sharpened and used by a skilled turner. They may require a little more care and not hold the edge as long as the more expensive tools, but they will get you by until you are more relaxed and confident in your turning skills. I have lathe tools ranging from Sorby's, to Shop Smith, to Harbor Freight, to home made. They all work well when properly sharpened and used correctly. Practice does not make perfect if your tools are not properly sharpened !!!! Here is something you might be interested in to start your turning at a very reasonable cost !! It is called the Ultra Carbide Chisel sold by PSI as a 10 piece system for $89.00. #LXPMSET. Consists of one 16" handle with a 4 1/2" blade and rubber grip. Nylon carry pouch. Magnetic chip deflector. 3 Carriers with 3 different Cutter profiles, and a alan wrench. Carbide cutters are 2" Radius, 3/8" Round, And Detail Diamond. With extra alan screws for all cutters. Cutters are marked so that you know what edge you have used. Blade also has flats ground into it to keep your chisel from turning on you. You can also purchase extra handles for $29.95  If you don't want to change the carriage back and forth.  Just a thought !!   Jim  S


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## Dan Masshardt (Jun 21, 2015)

3/4" Benjamin's best oval skew.  $15


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## 79spitfire (Jun 21, 2015)

The one that has become my "go-to" is my Benjamin's Best 3/4 oval carbide tipped skew. I resharpened it after watching a Capt'n Eddie video, (using a flat 400 grit diamond, lubed with a bit of soapy water, NOT a bench grinder, but that would work if you had a diamond wheel..) and it's been great for me. I think it was like $30 shipped or so.

I picked it because I do a lot of 'worthless wood' and synthetics, and found I was having to sharpen the regular HSS oval skew up to 3 times per pen. (worthless wood sometimes has "extras" in it, rocks, sand ect...)


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## alphageek (Jun 21, 2015)

Put me as another vote for the Benjamins best 3/4 oval skew.  I have 4 different skews, including one thats WAY more expensive, but this is my favorite.


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## Charlie69 (Jun 21, 2015)

Until very recently the only lathe chisels I've ever used were the Benjamins best tools from PSI.   Their skews are awesome and were my go to tool for years until I bought a carbide cutter which makes turning and  sanding acrylics much faster.


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## mecompco (Jun 21, 2015)

Thanks again! I had been looking at the Benjamin's Best. The carbides look convenient, but I think I'll go with HSS. Does one need a diamond wheel for sharpening? The regular wheel on my bench grinder makes quick work of the metal lathe HSS cutter.


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## edstreet (Jun 21, 2015)

Alan Lacer said this about the oval skew.



> Oval skew was a cheaper manufacturing process (cast, not milled) to fully round the long edge behind the short point and soften the corners behind the long point--thus creating an oval cross-section in the steel. First, sharpen them: no fixed plane AND you must created two parallel artificial planes. Next, try a peeling cut (no fixed plane), poorly executed. They are also flimsy (I can flex the 1/2 versions), work well for skimming cuts and softer woods but that's it. Next, as you do a rolling cut the presentation changes due to the change in thicknesses: already one of the hardest cuts in woodturning, and now you have added one more motion. I could go on, but I will save you. Also, don't buy skews that are rounded on both long edges behind the LP and SP: for 5 cuts with the LP down I need the flat but with soft corners as a starting register.



A list of items he has turned is here.

http://www.woodturninglearn.net/headstock/turneditemlist.htm


http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/defenseofskew.htm

Here they talk of oval and rectangle skew.

Personally I have given away most of my ovals, I just have one left and will hopefully be adding 1 or 2 (more?) flat skews to the shop sometimes.


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## alphageek (Jun 21, 2015)

edstreet said:


> http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/defenseofskew.htm
> 
> Here they talk of oval and rectangle skew.



Ed quoted the Alan Lacer part of things, since he has chosen the square path, but that article is a perfect example of the fact that every story has two sides.. Nick Cook takes the other side and prefers the oval skew.

Nick Cook Woodturner - Gallery - Unique Gift Items

No matter what you choose, I think the key is practice!  Everyone figures out what works for them!   There is no right answer other than the one that works best for you.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jun 21, 2015)

mecompco said:


> Thanks again! I had been looking at the Benjamin's Best. The carbides look convenient, but I think I'll go with HSS. Does one need a diamond wheel for sharpening? The regular wheel on my bench grinder makes quick work of the metal lathe HSS cutter.



For my skews, I just use a diamond hone card constantly and a belt sander if it needs a little more than that.  

I have the wolverine system but it gets used mostly for gouges and the occasional scraper sharpening.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jun 21, 2015)

Alan lacer is a great turner but I feel that most of the legitimate advantages to the reg skew don't apply as much to pen turning. 

   One is the peeling cut.  I would never use an oval skew for a peeling cut but I don't ever use the peeling cut for pen turning.


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## james nix (Jun 21, 2015)

*d-way tools*

I am new as well Dave will take care of you his tools are sharp when you get em, also he hand polishes his flutes. Awesome tool...


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## 79spitfire (Jun 21, 2015)

mecompco said:


> Thanks again! I had been looking at the Benjamin's Best. The carbides look convenient, but I think I'll go with HSS. Does one need a diamond wheel for sharpening? The regular wheel on my bench grinder makes quick work of the metal lathe HSS cutter.



No you don't need a diamond wheel for HSS, a regular wheel will do just fine. 

Diamond is only needed for solid carbide, and I usually just use a hand hone.


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## KenV (Jun 22, 2015)

You will get better edges with aluminum oxide or seeded jel grinding wheels intended for HSS.   Cubic boron nitride is the deluxe wheel.


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## philipff (Jun 22, 2015)

Doug Thompson, an American of the finest quality, makes and sells wonderful tools for turning.  I have used his tools for 5 years and find no fault in a single one.  Philip


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## Kendallqn (Jun 22, 2015)

Since most turners use their skew to open paint cans make sure to check eBay for whatever one you decide to get. I have a couple of crown PM and a carter and sons all purchased from there for next to nothing.


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## edstreet (Jun 22, 2015)

Dan Masshardt said:


> Alan lacer is a great turner but I feel that most of the legitimate advantages to the reg skew don't apply as much to pen turning.  One is the peeling cut.  I would never use an oval skew for a peeling cut but I don't ever use the peeling cut for pen turning.



I know several who make pens that use that cut.  All I have to say is try it before you knock it.  

Also the quality issue seems to be lacking in this thread.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jun 22, 2015)

edstreet said:


> I know several who make pens that use that cut.  All I have to say is try it before you knock it.  Also the quality issue seems to be lacking in this thread.


  This is the first time I've ever heard of anyone making the peeling cut on a pen blank.  I'd be interested if others who do so would chime in. 

   I feel it is not the best cut for many of the burls and susceptible man made materials that we use frequently.  

  It is the opposite of the primary advantage I gain from the skew - bevel support.


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## JimB (Jun 22, 2015)

Dan Masshardt said:


> edstreet said:
> 
> 
> > I know several who make pens that use that cut.  All I have to say is try it before you knock it.  Also the quality issue seems to be lacking in this thread.
> ...



Dan - I don't turn pens from man made materials but a few months ago I was experimenting with a man made pen blank. One of the cuts I did was the peeling cut with my flat skew. It was an amazing smooth and accurate cut. I don't know what the material was. I've used the peeling cut on wood spindles from pens up to about 3" diameter. Give it a try.


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## duncsuss (Jun 22, 2015)

Dan Masshardt said:


> It is the opposite of the primary advantage I gain from the skew - bevel support.



I think your definition of a peeling cut and mine must be different.

The way I do a peeling cut there's bevel support -- set the skew on the toolrest with the cutting edge above/beyond the blank, then gently raise the handle until the bevel makes contact with the workpiece. Pull back (and raise the handle as necessary) until the cutting edge starts doing its thing ...

It might not be the amount of bevel support you're used to with the planing cut, but it's there.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jun 22, 2015)

JimB said:


> Dan - I don't turn pens from man made materials but a few months ago I was experimenting with a man made pen blank. One of the cuts I did was the peeling cut with my flat skew. It was an amazing smooth and accurate cut. I don't know what the material was. I've used the peeling cut on wood spindles from pens up to about 3" diameter. Give it a try.



Thanks for the feedback. 

 I  do like and use the cut on wood spindles like peppermills.   Although truth me told I'm more of a gouge guy for material removal most of the time. 

I hope that I'm talking about the same thing as you and Ed.  I'm referring to the roughing cut that I've seen Alan use to rough down square stock, holding the whole edge at the end of the tool to the wood and raising the handle. 

We're very fortunate to have so many tools and variations of them available to us.  I know I have more than I probably should.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jun 22, 2015)

duncsuss said:


> I think your definition of a peeling cut and mine must be different.  The way I do a peeling cut there's bevel support -- set the skew on the toolrest with the cutting edge above/beyond the blank, then gently raise the handle until the bevel makes contact with the workpiece. Pull back (and raise the handle as necessary) until the cutting edge starts doing its thing ...  It might not be the amount of bevel support you're used to with the planing cut, but it's there.



Good point.  There is a bit of support there.

But if you have grain running lengthwise, you're still cutting into it sideways like with a parting tool.  

If it's a solid man made material that wouldn't apply of course.


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## JimB (Jun 22, 2015)

Dan Masshardt said:


> JimB said:
> 
> 
> > Dan - I don't turn pens from man made materials but a few months ago I was experimenting with a man made pen blank. One of the cuts I did was the peeling cut with my flat skew. It was an amazing smooth and accurate cut. I don't know what the material was. I've used the peeling cut on wood spindles from pens up to about 3" diameter. Give it a try.
> ...




I'm more of a gouge guy as well but lately I have been making an effort to learn to better use my other tools. The skew is one I have been practicing with and learning new cuts. I watched an Alan Lacer DVD on the skew and practiced some of the cuts.


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