# What's a good quick pen finish?



## alankulwicki7 (Jan 24, 2012)

When I make pens I usually do a CA finish. Since I don't make many pens, sometimes it will only take a few minutes but sometimes it takes me two or three tries.
It's not usually a big deal if I'm making the pen myself but I was thinking of donating a pen turning session to an auction/fund raiser at my kids school.

This brings me to my question: what's a good, quick finish for a wood pen?

Thanks!
Doug


----------



## Seer (Jan 24, 2012)

CA is quick and easy for me since I found my way to do it by experiementing with others ways I have never had to remove a finish yet but I am sure I will one day.


----------



## studioso (Jan 24, 2012)

hut 2 step polish the fastest and decent finish I use. it's impossible to mess it up, and results are consistent.. it's no CA: if there are pores in the wood it will not fill them, but otherwise the wood is beautifully burnished and smooth. in the very long run the wood can still absorb oils and moister and the luster might change. but for cheaper pens it works perfetly fine for me.  I fond that on dense woods like on olive tree wood, bokote it looks as good as CA


----------



## Whaler (Jan 24, 2012)

The quickest and easiest finish that I have found is from The Doctors Woodshop. It won't hold up as long as CA or Poly but gives a real nice natural finish.
DW Walnut Oil/Carnauba Wax /Shellac Woodturning Finish


----------



## alankulwicki7 (Jan 24, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. 

One of the reasons I don't want to use CA is that I want the person that's making the pen help apply the finish. I'm almost looking for something that's idiot proof.

I may use Hut if I had to but I'll look into the DR's walnut oil....

Thanks!
Doug


----------



## ssajn (Jan 24, 2012)

I've started using "Woodturner's Finish" by General Finishes.


----------



## ghostrider (Jan 24, 2012)

I've tried this and it's not too bad.

Turning a Spalted Cigar Pen

Still. Learning to do a CA finish can be just as easy as anything else IMHO.

I've used friction polish, and already had one pen back for a refinish. I've used Deft spray lacquer with good results, and didn't even MM that. Just have to be careful with it, and it took much longer than CA. 

I've also heard of some people using pour epoxy on thier turnings. One of the guys at my local Woodcraft uses the System Three epoxy on his. There is also a guy on the straight razor forums that gets incredible results with pour epoxy. But again, CA is quicker (not counting cure time).


----------



## BernieW (Jan 24, 2012)

I use General Finishes Woodturners finish. It is a water/oil hybrid. It is a pretty tough finish, has held up well so far and with the help of a hairdryer can put 5 or 6 coats in 30 minutes. I went to it to get away from the fumes of CA.


----------



## studioso (Jan 24, 2012)

What's this? How do you use pour epoxy on a pen?
I've been looking for an epoxy type coating for a whole, was hoping to find something that can be applied thick, and will level smOoth around the slowly turning blank. Is that what they do?


----------



## LeeR (Jan 24, 2012)

I now tend to put a CA finish on pens for durability, but for turnings like tool handles (for example, the Rockler Pizza Cutter), or wine stoppers, I like a simple friction polish. A few months ago, I bought a tub of EEE Ultra Shine. It is basically an abrasive wax, and really provides a nice surface to then apply a friction polish. I have just been going to maybe 320 or 400 grit with sandpaper or flex sanding pads, then to the EEE Ultra Shine.This is my standard finish on most anything except pens.

My friction polish is from HUT, but when it is gone, I plan to experiemnt with soem others.

Here is a link to the EEE Ultra Shine: 

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...nishes___EEE_Ultra_Shine_Paste_Wax___eee?Args=


----------



## 76winger (Jan 24, 2012)

I use Shelawax if it's a good hard wood with tight grain. It's easily applied and shines really nice. I've got in on the very first pen I made, over three years ago and although not as glossy as it used to be, it's still evident the finish is still there.


----------



## Carl Fisher (Jan 27, 2012)

I ordered a bottle of the Doctor's Workshop Walnut/Carnuba/Shelac mix to see how it does.  Looking for something a little better than my current friction polish for natural finished pens.


----------



## greenchicken (Jan 27, 2012)

Has anyone tried this?

High Gloss Dipping Solution: 1 PT at Penn State Industries


----------



## leehljp (Jan 27, 2012)

As and ALTERNATIVE - If you want to do a demonstration, and the "quick" finish is a concern, use a: 
1. cast resin blank that only needs polishing in a situation like that.
2. an ebony or cocobolo blank that will polish to a good sheen without needing a finish.
3. a good stabilized blank. Warning though - not all stabilized blanks will polish up to a reliable "sheen". This involves knowing the vendors and blanks though.

I agree with the waxes and shell wax type of finish for a quick demonstration. However, those quick wax finishes may wipe/rub of rather rapidly in situations like that where thin and fast applications are used for Demo purposes. Think of the dozens of hands that are going to want to "feel" it after you finish it. Some will handle it softly and some will rub it with pressure, which may wipe the wax type finish off and become a minor embarrassment that you might want to avoid. If people will NOT be handling it, then those finishes will work fine.


----------



## monophoto (Jan 27, 2012)

alankulwicki7 said:


> what's a good, quick finish for a wood pen?



I've concluded that the terms 'good' and 'quick' are mutually exclusive when applied to pen finishes.

I don't do production turning - I'm more concerned with the feel and appearance of the final product than with making a thousand copies, and I turn for enjoyment rather than to sell stuff.  I've concluded that I really don't care for the CA finish - it's just too plasticky.  I would rather spend the time required to apply a good finish that preserves the beauty and feel of the wood, and if that means waiting several hours between applications of WOP, then so be it.  

But that's my opinion, and I don't expect everyone (or for that matter, anyone) to agree with me.


----------



## greenchicken (Jan 27, 2012)

Well I agree on the Good vs Quick
And I agree on the CA feeling like plastic

My goal is not to produce in the thousands, but am not interested in spending hours (or even one hour) finishing a pen.  It is boring, tedious, and noxious. I am looking for the best compromise possible.


----------



## ghostrider (Jan 28, 2012)

studioso said:


> What's this? How do you use pour epoxy on a pen?
> I've been looking for an epoxy type coating for a whole, was hoping to find something that can be applied thick, and will level smOoth around the slowly turning blank. Is that what they do?


He told me that he applies it wipe on style, and lets it continue to turn slowly as it cures. 

Never tried it myself.


----------



## Carl Fisher (Jan 28, 2012)

Well, if you take quick out of the equation, I think it comes down to people looking for a good finish that still lets you have the look and feel of a warm polished wood but still be durable for long term handling. I'm hoping that the product I ordered early this week will do the job.


----------

