# Garage outlet



## darrenjttu (Mar 22, 2009)

Does any body have any big power outlets like this. Would this be ok for running normal 110v tools? Of course I will only be running one tool and maybe the dust collector. 



http://www.chipquik.com/store/strips/prod_eps4129bl.htm


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## patharris (Mar 22, 2009)

*Power strip reply*

Darren, 
  I recently purchased a 6ft. strip in white from an Electtrical Supply house that had to order them from A maf. in Atlanta.  They are pricey as was the 4' one in your weblink. however, I used it for an office situation not for my workshop.
  Pat 
Lexington, SC


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## darrenjttu (Mar 22, 2009)

And....


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## JimB (Mar 22, 2009)

It's rated for 15 amps. I think that is a good place to start. Look at the amps on the tools you will run. Start with your dust collector as that will probably pull the most amps. Then look at your tools that will run at the same time as your dust collector. If they add up to more than 15 amps you will trip the circuit in the power strip. Also, some tools may pull more amps when you first turn them on for just a split second and can cause it to trip. Also, how many amps is the outlet you are going to plug it into?


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## Art Fuldodger (Mar 22, 2009)

There are quite a few units like that available, up to about 6' or 7' in length, intended to go in the sides of datacenter computer racks. 

Take a look here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812120255
12 outlets, 20 amp capacity.  For a few bucks more, they also have 24-outlet units.  It doesn't have a plug, as you never know in a data center whether you're going to get a straight-plug, twist-lock, or what.  You can get a nice grounded, enclosed plug at Home Depot for $6 or so.

At work I use some really, really fancy ones to which I can connect remotely and shut individual outlets on and off, monitor current usage, etc..  They were something like $1500 *each*, though.


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## airborne_r6 (Mar 22, 2009)

It will be fine to run tools on as long as the tools you are running a once dont draw more than 15 amps which would trip the circuit breaker on the strip.  It would work great mounted near a work bench allowing you to have all of the tools that you use plugged in at once as long as you only run 1 or 2 of them at time.


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## pianomanpj (Mar 22, 2009)

Household lighting is run on 15 amp circuits with 14 AWG wiring. Receptacle wiring is 12 AWG, and has a maximum capacity of 20 amps. I'm not saying that you can't use this strip, but you have to make sure that all equipment being run concurrently on the strip does not exceed 15 amps. For that matter, all equipment running on the circuit containing the strip and other receptacles do not exceed 20 amps. (And by circuit, I mean everything on that circuit breaker that feeds this strip and other receptacles.) You will have to run a new circuit if the current is exceeded.

If you don't know the current (amps) consumption of a device, you can calculate it from the wattage. 

I = W / E

I = Current
W = Wattage
E = Voltage

For example, a 60 watt light bulb consumes half an amp. Use 120 volts for household voltage.

0.5 = 60 / 120


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## darrenjttu (Mar 22, 2009)

Thanks! I will have to look up the amps.


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## cozee (Mar 22, 2009)

For the expense of the strip, one could wire in dedicated outlets for each the tool(s) and the DC.


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## Art Fuldodger (Mar 23, 2009)

cozee said:


> For the expense of the strip, one could wire in dedicated outlets for each the tool(s) and the DC.



Not even close - the cost of the permit alone would be at least the cost of the strip, and then you haven't even gotten into the materials.  Even if the permit were free, you're technically supposed to have a GFCI on every circuit in the garage, and that's $30 right there.

Furthermore, not everyone has a panel conveniently located, they would have to fish through drywall and such.  And even then, most homes don't have any spare breakers in the main panel, the original contractor used the smallest panel possible to save $5.

But... if you're the type that has a panel close, or will skip the permit, then you're right.  I ran my own 50A, 220V circuit to a subpanel in my garage, and break out what I need from there.

Here's an example:







That's four outlets... and four 20A circuits.  Lots of flexibility.  With those and the other circuits coming out of the subpanel, I've had two lathes, overhead lights, two work lights, and three space-heaters running at the same time with no problem.

Get the 20A strip that I linked to, and you're good - the breaker in your panel (whether 15A or 20A) will have that circuit covered.


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## darrenjttu (Mar 23, 2009)

I just finished wiring a 220 v. I bought all the stuff and then at the last minute paid 85 dollors to watch an electritian do the exact same thing I would have done. I got room in the panel, it close and would just run metal conduit on the outside of the wall. What else do I need?


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## Fred (Mar 23, 2009)

Time ...

You can do the job yourself. Just take your time and DOUBLE check everything. Be sure to use the proper gauge of wire to match ALL combined loads. Keep the wiring neat and lable everything as you go. Labeled wires on both ends make trouble shooting later on a real easy task.

If you install several outlet boxes, label the wires coming and going for simplicity. DO NOT CROSS the ground wires from one box to another. Trouble brewing if you do.

Just be careful, draw out your circuits - use colored pens for each wire - and ask questions if in doubt! (The job is not at all complicated so you can do it!)


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## Art Fuldodger (Mar 23, 2009)

darrenjttu said:


> I just finished wiring a 220 v. I bought all the stuff and then at the last minute paid 85 dollors to watch an electritian do the exact same thing I would have done. I got room in the panel, it close and would just run metal conduit on the outside of the wall. What else do I need?



There are special regulations in a garage because it is considered wet.  First, the boxes/outlets have to be a certain height off of the floor - but since you're probably putting them at usable heights anyway, you're covered.

Second, you are supposed to have a GFCI on every circuit.  That gets to be a serious money-drain.  Watch for clearance items... at one local store, they were clearing out "motor pass-through" GFCIs (a GFCI with no outlet, which will protect the rest of the circuit) for $5 each, so I snapped some up.

Of course, each locality is free to add on to the NEC code as they see fit, and some do.  And then, since there is little to no accountability for inspectors, some are notorious for pulling bizarre regulations out of their bodily orifices that do not appear anywhere in the NEC or state/city code, or even by other inspectors.

One thing I have noticed is that when an electrician has done the work, the inspectors are often quite lax about actually inspecting the details, they just assume that the sparky got it right.  But when an individual has done it, they have a way of pulling out the fine-toothed comb.


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## kevinbrown22 (Mar 23, 2009)

I use one looks exactly like the one pictured, paid about 25 at Frys electronics. Works great next to the work bench.


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## rherrell (Mar 24, 2009)

Art Fuldodger said:


> Not even close - the cost of the permit alone would be at least the cost of the strip, and then you haven't even gotten into the materials. Even if the permit were free, you're technically supposed to have a GFCI on every circuit in the garage, and that's $30 right there.
> 
> Furthermore, not everyone has a panel conveniently located, they would have to fish through drywall and such. And even then, most homes don't have any spare breakers in the main panel, the original contractor used the smallest panel possible to save $5.
> 
> ...


 


Art Fuldodger said:


> There are special regulations in a garage because it is considered wet. First, the boxes/outlets have to be a certain height off of the floor - but since you're probably putting them at usable heights anyway, you're covered.
> 
> Second, you are supposed to have a GFCI on every circuit. That gets to be a serious money-drain. Watch for clearance items... at one local store, they were clearing out "motor pass-through" GFCIs (a GFCI with no outlet, which will protect the rest of the circuit) for $5 each, so I snapped some up.
> 
> ...


 
Permit? What's that?:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
If, as you say, a garage is considered "wet" then how did you get away with running flex conduit and non-weatherproof boxes and fittings? :wink::biggrin:


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## Art Fuldodger (Mar 24, 2009)

By "wet", I don't mean "exterior", just potentially wet - like a bathroom (or, I think, a laundry room) where you also need GFCIs, but don't need weatherproof housings.


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## L1Truckie (Apr 14, 2009)

Darren,

I have a similar one I bought at Lowes. I have a shop light plugged in and run one tool at a time with no problems. I run my DP, Lathe and Grinder on that side of the shop.

oops, I read the rest of the post and saw you already had a fix......plus im about a month late......


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## seawolf (Apr 14, 2009)

I have several harvested from computer cases rated at 20 amps. I mounted one at the back of my work bench to run smaller tools on. Works great and has a reset switch if you do pull to much power.
Mark


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## dankc908 (Apr 15, 2009)

I picked up a 4' strip like the one mentioned in the 1st post from Menards for $30 and it works great.


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