# Finish for Acrylic Acetate



## TonyDentino (Jan 24, 2005)

What is the best finish for AA pens?

Tony


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## Fred in NC (Jan 24, 2005)

Wax...  TSW.


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## KKingery (Jan 24, 2005)

Although I've not personally done any AA yet, Plenty of folks seem to just use a good wax, as Fred as mentioned.


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## TonyDentino (Jan 24, 2005)

What is TSW?

Tony


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## Fred in NC (Jan 24, 2005)

Tony: Click on this link:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3177

I use it with excellent results.


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## elody21 (Jan 24, 2005)

For finishing Acrylic or other plastic I start out using a 220 grit to even out the blank from gouge or squew marks. I then use a 600 grit then 800 grit. These two can be as wet sanding if needed. At that point you can use Novus #2 for fine scratches and then Mylands friction polish. But, if you really want to get a great shine get a set of micro mesh! It goes from 1500 all the way to 12000! And what a shine! Just like glass! I only started using micro mesh about a month ago. I cannot believe what I was missing all of this time!
Good Luck!!!


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## elody21 (Jan 24, 2005)

If you do get micro mesh it goes without saying that you still use the steps above only save the Novus and Mylands until you go through all of the micro mesh stages. Also Micro Mesh is made to use as wet sanding only!  If you sand without water it backing will melt!


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## Fred in NC (Jan 24, 2005)

1500 MM is not the same as regular wet/dry grit.  It is more like 400 regular grit.  They are two completely different grit systems.


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## btboone (Jan 24, 2005)

Must be metric grit.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 24, 2005)

Original post:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1798&whichpage=1#11652

Micromesh chart site:
http://www.ss-sci.com/micromesh.htm

Please note that most sandpaper we buy has CAMI/USA grit size markings.  However, some oriental imported sandpaper has the European markings.  

That is why I say that it does not make much sense to sand beyond 400 grit if you are going to use MM.


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## Tom Stephens (Jan 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by elody21_
> <br />If you do get micro mesh it goes without saying that you still use the steps above only save the Novus and Mylands until you go through all of the micro mesh stages. Also Micro Mesh is made to use as wet sanding only!  If you sand without water it backing will melt!


Micro Mesh is <b>not</b> for wet sanding only. I never use it wet and do not melt the backing. I use both the sponge backed double sided pads and the plain sheets. It takes some expirementing to find the proper speed and the correct amount of pressure to apply. I use it for wood and acrylic both.
Tom


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## btboone (Jan 24, 2005)

For acrylic, I use spongeback 8000 and 12000 grit dry by hand and go against the machining marks.  From there, it can be nicely polished with a very soft buff and some white rouge.


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## elody21 (Jan 24, 2005)

What I wrote is what works for me. It does not really matter if they are two different grit systems or if someone wants to use it wet or dry.I was going by the nembers on the back of the micro mesh. I was told by woodturngz that is was to be used wet when use on plastics and that was the original question. If you are turning some plastics like home cut bowling ball or cast acrylic and you are turning them very thin it is possible to over heat the plastic to the point of distortion and using the MM wet helps revent this.


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## woodpens (Jan 24, 2005)

I agree with "whatever works for you is what you should do." However, I think Woodturningz missed the mark on this one. I wish the photo showed the finish better on this pen, but I used Micromesh dry, and it is glossy as glass. I have never used Micromesh wet, and it works great on acrylic and wood alike.


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## wayneis (Jan 24, 2005)

If anyone cares to go by the manufactures instructions which is what I believe Woodturnz did then they say to wet sand acrylics and dry sand woods.  At least on the sheet that was supplied with my set of Micro Mesh.  I do think that if you wet sand it will make MM last longer and you take little risk of over-heating the acrylic or MM.  I've been using Micro Mesh for about five years now and swear by it for most all woodworking projects.  I also wet sand wood using Danish Oil on my Jewelry boxs and picture frames and the finish is babies butt smooth.

So the bottom line in my opinion is that everyone should just do what floats your boat, if it works for you then do it.

Wayne


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## KKingery (Jan 24, 2005)

I'll just be glad when my order for MM arrives! (Wet or Dry!)


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## woodpens (Jan 24, 2005)

You'll be thrilled with the results of micromesh, especially on acrylic. Just use a light touch and let the micromesh do the work.


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## KKingery (Jan 24, 2005)

That's what I've heard! I just ordered my first acrylic blanks today, and figured I better get the MM to go along with them!


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## Gary (Jan 24, 2005)

I was skeptical of Micro Mesh until I used it. It's a great product, and I'm amazed at how long it lasts.


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## DCBluesman (Jan 24, 2005)

The only thing I can add about micro-mesh is to not let it get hot while you are sanding.  Other than that precaution, the stuff is wonderful with loads of uses other than penturning.


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## elody21 (Jan 25, 2005)

Thank you Wayne!


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## Gregory Huey (Jan 25, 2005)

Keep it moving while you are sanding or it will burn. Other than that it is one great product. Just put it in your pants pocket when it is cloged up and wash it. (don't run it through the dryer) just lay it out and let it dry.


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## woodscavenger (Jan 25, 2005)

How long does the MM last?  It's a little pricey and I wonder how much use I will get out of it?


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## PenWorks (Jan 25, 2005)

Forever & ever & ever.....I have been using the same batch I bought for at least a year now. It might be pricey, but is a great VALUE.

Anthony


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## Tom Stephens (Jan 25, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Gregory Huey_
> <br />Keep it moving while you are sanding or it will burn. Other than that it is one great product. Just put it in your pants pocket when it is cloged up and wash it. (don't run it through the dryer) just lay it out and let it dry.


You have to practice to keep it from burning. You may have to slow down your lathe.
I also learned that you can clean MM quite well while you are working by rubbing on your jeans. I was very surprised.
Tom


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## jwoodwright (Jan 25, 2005)

Everyone knows MM was first used to refinish Aircraft Windows.  After time they get scratched and worn and all that UV...  

MM removes these scratchs, etc.  The windows look crystal clear.

They're still scratched, just too fine for the naked eye to see...

Polishs have micro abrasives that leave the finest scratch pattern.

Difference between a fine tip pen and a 1" paintbrush...[8D]


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## wayneis (Jan 26, 2005)

Some of the MM is so delicate that the Violin Company where I buy all my MM has a kit for repairing CD's, it includes a small rubber mat to keep the CD from sliding around, a small piece of 12,000 and some of the very fine polishing licquid compound and a small piece of soft flannel cloth.  You can do lot's of stuff with MM.   By the way, for anyone needing MM the Violin Company has the best price of anyone with no minimum order.

Wayne


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