# Optimal use of buffer



## Tiger (Oct 1, 2014)

I have my Beall buffer which comes out infrequently and it does seem to do a good job of removing the fine scratches sometimes. My approach is a little haphazard and i'm wondering how those that use it regularly use it for maximum value. So do you use it in conjunction with micromesh, if so, how many grades of MM do you use, also how long do you spend on the buffing wheels? I find that the Carnauba does very little and usually just gives me a messy wax residue which i then have to clean up but that's probably because i don't use it right.


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## Rockytime (Oct 1, 2014)

I'm wondering the same thing.


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## MarkD (Oct 1, 2014)

I have not watched it in a while but this video may be of help to you
HOW TO #8--Buffing.mp4 - YouTube


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## Tiger (Oct 1, 2014)

MarkD said:


> I have not watched it in a while but this video may be of help to you
> HOW TO #8--Buffing.mp4 - YouTube



Yes i have watched it, pretty much how I apply except i use the bottom of the wheel more.


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## BSea (Oct 1, 2014)

I use the 1st 4 MM pads.  Including going lengthwise with the lathe turned off.  Then I buff with tripoli & white diamond.  I normally only buff lengthwise. I only use a small bit of carnauba wax.  You may be applying to much wax to the wheel.  

My results are better than just using MM.  The buffer works especially well on alumilite.


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## Tom T (Oct 1, 2014)

On acrylic,  I go through all the grades and end at 12,000.
I have found the key to a perfect finish, zero on the scratch scale is to look at you pen when it is turned with a magnifying glasses.  I have some from the fifths my Dad gave me many years ago.  It is head gear.  I do not turn as well as some so I have more to sand.  
I start sanding with 240 grit and work up to 600 grit, all dry.  Then I switch to wet micro mess.  But this is important.  As you get to 400 grit paper look at the pen with magnification and see how it looks.  This is wear I spend time to get out any deep groves and the on to 600 grit.  I wipe the blank with a wet paper towel between grits in case some of the prior grit is hanging around and going to give me a deep scratch in a later sanding.  Again I look at the blank to make sure it is evenly scratched.   If it is not it has to be evenly scratched before you go to Micro Mesh.  I start with the next to the lowest Mesh and work up.  Wiping with wet paper towel between each grit.  I look with magnification between each grit also to see the all the scratches are uniform.  If they are not I may have to go back down a step or two.  If it is sunny I take the blank out side each time and look.  I go all the way to 12,0000. ( many do not go up that far and I have not a few times. But the result is not as good, still okay). Then I wipe it down with paper towel again and take it off the mandrel and make sure no previous anything is left behind.  Then I put it back on the mandrel with or with out the bushing and start the beal buff with tripoli.  I keep the blank at about a 45 degree angle on the wheel and use the upper front of the wheel.  I mount the wheel on the lathe, do not have a dedicated machine for this.  Important put several layers of soft foam on the lathe bed and on the floor.  To protect the blank in case it decides to fly off.  It will crack on the concert or the lathe bed.  I have done so.  Just touch it up one more time and wam it is flying around the shop.  And it hurts when it hits you.  Again I look at the blank with magnification to see how it looks.  It has to be perfect.  Side note, make sure you clean the old tripoli off the buffing wheel or it will scratch.  I use block of wood and old drum sander belt.  Then make sure the sand paper grit is off the buffing wheel by run some thing you do not care about as much on it.  Then the white diamond.  It usually really look perfect.  Protect the blank ends when you press them.  This is more than you wanted I am sure.  Just trying to help.  When I am do prior to pressing together I picked up a great tip on this sight.  That is to take a higher grade Micro Mesh and touch up the edge all the way around then the 12,000 a few times and it will not catch when you run your finger down the pen.  It works great.  Hope that helps.  Tom T


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## TonyL (Oct 1, 2014)

*Radial Scratches*

I do this...and stopped using a buffer. Zero scratches under a 10x loop.

I know it is time to replace my MM when I follow "my system" and I still see fine scratches. Then I just leave on the lathe and start sanding again with new MM.

FWIW


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## KenV (Oct 1, 2014)

Tony's approach will work for acrylics --  or I like blue rouge after sheet abrasives to near polish -

Lately have been using abranet to 4000K and then to the blue rouge.

Note that Jerry developed his system for buffing wood ---  

I do use Jerry's schema for wood bowls and such -- especially good for polishing the wood where a built up film finish is not included.


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## Tiger (Oct 2, 2014)

Thanks Tom for your detailed reply, also to the others, Tony will give yours a try, got a feeling my MM has worn.


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## Dan Masshardt (Oct 2, 2014)

One side thought about buffing.   I don't bother with padding around the wheels.  Just find something to put the pen tube on.  

I use my knockout rod.  You could easily use a dowel as well.   Makes it hard for it to go anywhere.


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## Dave Turner (Oct 2, 2014)

Lots of good tips here. I will usually micromesh through all the grits before buffing, although I know I can safely stop at the Teal 4000 level (corresponds to 1500 grit sandpaper = 5 micron particle size). It takes less than a minute extra to do the last three grits.

I then use a dedicated HF buffer with Canton Flannel Wheels. The first wheel is loaded with Plastic-glo on it. I buff lightly nearly length-wise, angled just enough to safely hold the part between my thumb and index finger and keep my fingers off the wheel. After that, I'll use the second wheel, which is loaded with Plastic Buffing Compound.  I'll flip the part end-over-end and buff on the second wheel similar to the first.  I use this same technique for finishing all my blanks, whether they are acrylic or CA finished wood.

I find that the light reflected from a point light source will look the best if you buff the blanks longitudinally - much improved from just micromeshing alone.  I also find that this buffing routine works well to touch up an assembled pen that has picked up any fine scratches. While I try to avoid the metal components on the pen, I never have noticed any adverse effects on the metal plating from this buffing, the few times I've used it. If anything, it makes it shinier.


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## BSea (Oct 2, 2014)

Dan Masshardt said:


> One side thought about buffing.   I don't bother with padding around the wheels.  Just find something to put the pen tube on.
> 
> I use my knockout rod.  You could easily use a dowel as well.   Makes it hard for it to go anywhere.


I use my tube insertion tool. It works great for this as the taper will help keep the blank steady. It works much better for this task than it ever did for inserting tubes.


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## ed4copies (Oct 2, 2014)

Dan Masshardt said:


> One side thought about buffing.   I don't bother with padding around the wheels.  Just find something to put the pen tube on.
> 
> I use my knockout rod.  You could easily use a dowel as well.   Makes it hard for it to go anywhere.


 
Most knockout rods are metal.  Metal, if it comes in contact with the wheel, will make the wheel black.  So, be careful, or use a wood dowel---which will not discolor the wheels.


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## Tiger (Oct 2, 2014)

Thanks for the added input. Dave I only use the standard wheels, Tripoli, White diamond etc. Often wondered about the other wheels and their merits.


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## steve worcester (Oct 11, 2014)

Tom T said:


> I go all the way to 12,0000. ( many do not go up that far and I have not a few times. But the result is not as good, still okay). Then I wipe it down with paper towel again and take it off the mandrel and make sure no previous anything is left behind.  Then I put it back on the mandrel with or with out the bushing and start the beal buff with tripoli.  ..



If you are going to 12000 and then tripoli, your going WAY backwards. At 12000 it should be glossy as if you waxed. I would think about going right to carnauba, or at the very least go to white. Skip the Tripoli if you are over about 1500. Tripoli is rather aggressive.

Wet sanding with Abralon to 4K and you can go right to white diamond. Depending on how hard the material is, you can generally skip the white and go to the carauba just for the buffing


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## Ted iin Michigan (Oct 11, 2014)

The sanding/polishing procedures listed above will all work pretty well, as evidenced by the great results we see here. Personally, I sand to 2000, then Novus 3 & 2 and THEN I use the Beall wheels (no wax). But that's not why I'm posting.

I'm jumping in to add another thing to consider when finishing a pen. It's hardly ever mentioned but I believe that prevention of cross contamination is as important as anything else in this stage of the game. I go so far as to keep separate water sources for each grit while I am wet sanding and I store my Beall wheels in separate plastic bags. Kind of curious if anybody else is as anal as I am.


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## TonyL (Oct 11, 2014)

I use a small spray bottle (filled with water), and wipe the blank with a clean paper towel after each grit. Don't know it the spray bottle is a good idea or not, but better for me than having multiple water vessels. FWIW.


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## Tom T (Oct 11, 2014)

I use a plastic pan with water and throw all the MM in it and pull out the one I need next.  I sometimes change the water if I am doing several pens.  Seems to work for me.  I also put all the wheels back in the original box.  I also clean my Tripoli with an old sanding belt wrapped around a 2x4 as the instructions say to do.  I like what Dan and Ed said about using a dowel stick for put the blanks on when buffing.  I use the two finger method an that's why the padding on the lathe bed as they get pulled from my hand.  I have used metal and my wheels started turning black.  I have never used carbona wax.  It may work great.  On plastic I usally use nothing.  But I have used Renaissance wax.  Wood I dry sand then continue sanding with MM then tripoli and white diamond then Renaissance.


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## darrin1200 (Oct 13, 2014)

I just picked up te PSI buffing set for my mini lathe.

I have a couple of finished and assembled pens, Baron's in gold and chrome, that need some touch up. I let myself get rushed and did not take enough time to get a really good finish. And yes I have properly flogged myself for not taking the proper care to do it right.

Can i buff them without taking them apart. Will the Trippoli or the white damage the platings. I can disassemble if necessary, but as a last resort. I Loctited everything and would prefer not to risk damage when knocking apart.

Thanks


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## Carl Fisher (Oct 13, 2014)

Buffing will take off the plating on the pens. Definitely disassemble first.


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