# Can't get CA to turn out.  HELP!!!!!!!!!!!



## Talfalfa33 (Sep 10, 2012)

I have five tulipwood slims to finish by Oct 1st and I have them all turned, so now is the time to finish. I've tried sanding sealer and CA/BLO for 7-8 coats. Then I micro mesh and by time I finish, it's back down to bare wood. Even after wiping down with DNA before anything. I've tried straight CA and even went as far as wiping on polyurethane after the DNA and still micro's back to bare wood with splotches of CA or poly. Splotches end up in different places each time I do the finish. I have different brands of CA and different thicknesses so I know it's not the CA or my technique cause everything I try ends the same.
     So does anybody have any suggestions or other finishes that work or last as long as CA.


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## thewishman (Sep 10, 2012)

If you keep sanding through the CA, you can either put more CA on or sand less. Try applying more and be careful to go easy on the first few MM grits, the 1500 is about the same as 400 grit sandpaper and will remove the CA pretty quickly.

I use a dissolved plexiglas finish that is easy to apply and is as durable as CA. PM if you want info on my plexi routine.


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## edstreet (Sep 10, 2012)

welcome to the world of the "I put 20 billion coats of CA on this pen!" 

Seriously tho sand it good, clean up the dust and put 1-2 very thick coats of ca on it, 800 grit paper is all you need to smooth it out. Don't over sand as that will defeat the purpose.  Put about 8-10 drops on the pen and just smooth it out and keep the pen spinning until it becomes mostly dry, you can tell by it will not stick to your fingers when you touch it but the shine will be removed by touching it.

The purpose of sanding is to make the CA coat uniform.

The reason you add ANOTHER coat of CA is if there is gaps, voids, holes if you will in the finish.

Mind if you share your entire process with us please?  You mentioned micromesh, what other things do you use in the finishing process?


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## mdburn_em (Sep 10, 2012)

It sounds like you're over-sanding and/or you are applying the CA finish too unevenly.  
The purpose of sanding (for this application) is to remove imperfections in the finish...low/high spots, ridges, swirls, etc.  If you apply the CA so those aren't there, you have very little work to do in sanding.

I apply thin CA with a doubled piece of shop towel (blue) and a strip of baggie under it so I don't end up adorned with shop towel pieces stuck to my fingers.

CA is applied from the top with the towel underneath.
They move in unison from right to left across the blank, one time.
lightly puff accelerator on the still spinning blank.  Did I mention lightly?
repeat immediately 4 or 5 times.

I grab 600 or 800 grit sandpaper and lightly sand.  This sanding will reveal ridges/valleys.
I stop and still using the same sandpaper, sand right to left.  Just enough to ensure good coverage of the blank.    
I go to 1200 grit. same routine
1500 grit -> 2000 grit -> MM 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000 and micro gloss.  
All I'm doing is getting rid of the sanding pattern of the previous grit.  I'm polishing more than sanding.  
If you start out with a smooth CA application, sanding is easy and no sanding through your finish.

I've had the same can of accelerant for a couple years.


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## switch62 (Sep 10, 2012)

I also had the same problem with CA. When I first started I got bare wood on the bulge of the curved barrel. I have almost perfected my technique with CA finish.

I use the technique shown by Dave at timberbits, here, with some variations. I usually put on 20 coats of thin CA, sometimes a few more if the wood is very absorbent.

The CA I use is about water thin, some thin CAs are DNA thin. I also use an accelerator to make sure each coat has set, other wise you could be rubbing off the previous coat. Because I use a hand pump for the accelerator and get a thicker mist, I only spray every other coat. There is enough left on the surface to set the next coat. I don't drip the CA onto the wood, I apply 2 drops onto the paper towel. I use top part of towel for barrel and bottom part for cap, go through all 10, and re-use the backs for the next 10 coats (CA on the towels should be set by then).  You'll need to customise your technique as changing the type/brand of CA or even the paper towel will change your results.

When I sand the CA I start with 800 wet and dry, wet sanding. I sand just enough to get an even dull finish. I sand with a 1" strip for about 5 seconds moving back and forth across the barrel/cap. I then stop, dry the barrel/cap and check for shiny or high spots. I will then sand those areas, stop, and check, until they are gone or very small. I will then cross sand, this gets rid of the last shiny bits.

I then wet sand with 1000, 1200, then through all the micro mesh grits. I only sand for 2-5 seconds for each grit. I only cross sand every 3rd grit (800, 1200, 2400, 4000, 12000). Then Brasso and car polish.

When sanding a curved barrel/cap, I spend less time on the bulge and try to angle the paper/pad to match the curve. The secret is to sand as little as possible.

I hope this helps. Keep trying as it will take a bit of time to get the knack.


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## soundman (Sep 17, 2012)

One thing that may help.

I apply CA with a cotton bud ( or as you may say a Q tip).

I put one generous drop on the cotton bud ( enough that the cotton tip is wet and it flows on the work) and apply that to the timber with the lathe running.

I find I use less CA, I get more controll and it keeps my fingers away from the glue.

The coats may be thinner, but if you get it right, the coat flows on smoothly and there is very little to sand off.

new application new cotton bud

because the coats are thinner I find less need to use accelerator...it seems to me that the accelerator often makes the finish lumpy......

I prefeer to walk away from the lathe for a minute rather than use the accelerator, and if I do use accelaeator I let the CA go off a little first...it seems to effect the finish less.

try it....tell me how you go.

cheers


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## 76winger (Sep 17, 2012)

mdburn_em said:


> It sounds like you're over-sanding and/or you are applying the CA finish too unevenly.
> The purpose of sanding (for this application) is to remove imperfections in the finish...low/high spots, ridges, swirls, etc.  If you apply the CA so those aren't there, you have very little work to do in sanding.
> 
> I apply thin CA with a doubled piece of shop towel (blue) and a strip of baggie under it so I don't end up adorned with shop towel pieces stuck to my fingers.
> ...



The key word Mark mentions here and needs to be stressed is "LIGHTY". 

Lightly on the accelerator because too much will cause the CA to blister.

Lightly on the sanding so you don't go all the way through.
Also lightly on the sand because the more pressure you apply, the deeper you sand scratches will be, and thus the more CA  you have to remove to get rid of the scratches.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner


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## mbroberg (Sep 17, 2012)

This video shows a process that has been very successful for me.  I've tweeked it a little, but basically this is how I do it.

WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish - YouTube


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## Mike D (Sep 17, 2012)

I started using the STICK FAST CA finish system and I find it very easy to use and I have had great results on my last 3 pens.
Here is one link Stick Fast CA Wood Finish System


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## island03z (Sep 18, 2012)

wrong thread


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## joefrog (Sep 26, 2012)

mbroberg said:


> This video shows a process that has been very successful for me.  I've tweeked it a little, but basically this is how I do it.
> 
> WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish - YouTube



Interesting!  I've never tried combining CA with BLO -- I guess I thought it would prevent the CA from sticking as well.  Can you get BLO at the big box store, or do I have to go to Woodcraft or another source?

Thanks!


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## alphageek (Sep 26, 2012)

joefrog said:


> mbroberg said:
> 
> 
> > This video shows a process that has been very successful for me.  I've tweeked it a little, but basically this is how I do it.
> ...



I got a quart at a big box store... then put it into a little bottle (1oz from walmart type paint) so that it keeps fresher and is easier to use.


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## joefrog (Sep 26, 2012)

Great.  I have to go buy some pine tonight at the box store for some other crafts. I'll grab some and try it tonight!


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## reddwil (Sep 26, 2012)

Try the stick Fast system as mentioned. Once I got the hang of it (personal issues), I love it.


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## joefrog (Sep 27, 2012)

alphageek said:


> joefrog said:
> 
> 
> > mbroberg said:
> ...



I tried the above technique last night, with less-than-stellar results.  Maybe I did something wrong, I'm not sure.  I'll try it again!


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## joefrog (Sep 27, 2012)

reddwil said:


> Try the stick Fast system as mentioned. Once I got the hang of it (personal issues), I love it.



Thanks, I will!  I'll try almost anything once.


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## joefrog (Oct 5, 2012)

mbroberg said:


> This video shows a process that has been very successful for me.  I've tweeked it a little, but basically this is how I do it.
> 
> WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish - YouTube



I tried this twice again last night.  Two more failures.  Apparently I'm missing something, because I do it exactly like he is doing!


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## Leatherman1998 (Oct 5, 2012)

Try this works every time for me.
glass.avi - YouTube


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## Wildman (Oct 6, 2012)

Kind of an overkill for me but still effective method. Have never used anything but medium CA, mineral oil, BLO, finishing with CA.  No, did not use MO & BLO together.
Got to where felt oil not needed.

http://www.woodturningonline.com/assets/Projects/CA_finishing.pdf


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## rd_ab_penman (Oct 6, 2012)

*Med CA Only Pen Blank Finish*

No sanding involved for final finishing, just use Super Fine Steel Wool and polish.
Mixing anything with CA causing too many problems.
Works great for me.

Les


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## mikespenturningz (Oct 7, 2012)

After I found(was told) wet sanding my trouble with CA was gone! Are you wet sanding or dry sanding? Try wet sanding and you only need those 2 more coarse MM for a few seconds each. Don't sand until you are done applying the CA! Each new coat kind of melts into the last anyway and you just don't need to do anything between! By the time I mastered CA I found I was allergic if that happens to you look at friction polish. That is what I do now and I am starting to get a good shine out of that without all the crap CA fumes!


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## joefrog (Oct 8, 2012)

Wildman said:


> Kind of an overkill for me but still effective method. Have never used anything but medium CA, mineral oil, BLO, finishing with CA.  No, did not use MO & BLO together.
> Got to where felt oil not needed.
> 
> http://www.woodturningonline.com/assets/Projects/CA_finishing.pdf



LOL!  "ass...finishing?"  A bit extreme, but...:biggrin:


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