# What is the trick to working with light wood?



## rjwolfe3 (Mar 23, 2008)

(I have searched the forum for "light wood", "light colored", and "bushing dust" but got nothing found.  So with fear, I am posting this.)[B)]

The question I have is: what is the trick to keeping light colored wood light when finishing it?  It seems no matter what I try when I use light colored wood, I get what looks like dirt in it.  I'm not sure if it comes from the sandpaper or the bushings.  I've tried to be really careful not to sand the bushings but it still comes out dirty.  Below is an example.  This has also happened on wood where I didn't use dark colors with.  I have some holly that I'm afraid to use for fear of finishing it dirty.  I use a mandrel, only because I can't afford any other method at this time.






Thanks for the help


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## Dario (Mar 23, 2008)

Try this trick...

After your last cut and before sanding...seal the wood with thin CA.  This works only if you cut to almost the final dimension before sanding.

Also avoid moving from bushing to wood while sanding.

Give it a try.


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## Dario (Mar 23, 2008)

BTW, the dead center/live center, mandrel less turning works well for this.  It only costs you an additional dead center (if you don't have one yet) so not much investment wise.


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## johnnycnc (Mar 23, 2008)

I'll second Dario's suggestion of sealing
the wood before you start sanding.
You can use thin ca,or a sanding sealer.
Once you have sanded a bit,re-apply that sealer and sand
some more.You won't get far with coarse grits before needing
to reseal,btw.repeat as necessary.
Bushing residue shouldn't be an issue if grain is sealed.
What kind of sandpaper are you using?There is a difference
in brands.I like Norton 3X,never left residue for me.
Black automotive paper can leave trace junk,if by chance
you're using it.
Also,if you have an air compressor and blow nozzle,try to blow out the grain,
before you seal,and during sanding/resealing.
this alone makes nicer,cleaner looking grain.
My 2-1/2 cents,hope it helps!


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## wdcav1952 (Mar 23, 2008)

Rob, once you have turned to size, you can put in a spacer between the bushing and the end of the blank.  Punch or drill a hole in a cola bottle cap or something similar and use it for a low/no cost spacer.  This will keep your sandpaper off the bushing.  Dario and John make good points with the recommendations to seal with thin CA and to use quality sandpaper.  Hang in there, it does get better.


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## devowoodworking (Mar 23, 2008)

Yeah, everything that was said, particularly the sealing before sanding, very crucial especially with holly it will take on whatever wood color you mix it with and woods like padauk will literally turn holly orange, been there, got the t-shirt!


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## igran7 (Mar 23, 2008)

Rob, it depends on which bushings you are using, I am assuming you are using the black coated bushings?  If so simply sand the black coating off with sandpaper prior to your final dimension.  Be careful not to sand away the metal underneath.  I suspect the black coating dust is what is causing your light colored wood to darken.  I have used this method countless times and it works well for me with no additional cost.  There is probably a solvent out there available for you soak them in as well that will remove the coating.


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## wdcav1952 (Mar 23, 2008)

Joe, with all due respect for your posting, the metal dust from used bushings will also stain light colored wood, albeit not as much as the black paint.


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## leehljp (Mar 23, 2008)

I found a decrease in bushing dust on stabilized wood - Not as many pores for the dust to get into. That is not the cure but a help. I now use the mandrel-less system and of course there are no bushings in the fine sanding and finishing stage to bother with.

For segmented wood of light and dark, stabilized wood work best to prevent dust, but for the most part, just being aware and by sanding carefully, it can be overcome. With this experience, I managed to control serious dust contamination problems.


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## igran7 (Mar 23, 2008)

Cav, with all due respect for your posting, metal dust doesn't appear to be the problem gauging by the picture Rob supplied us with.  The dark areas in the light wood are subatantial and more consistant with black paint transfer than metal dust.  It is a theory that wasn't touched on by other members, and offered up as a suggestion for Rob to explore.  Perhaps this isn't the problem at all, but it shouldn't be dismissed as a possibility.


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## wdcav1952 (Mar 23, 2008)

Damn, Joe, we are doing a great job at being respectful and stuff.  I interpreted your post to mean that metal dust from used bushings would not transfer to light colored woods.  Obviously both paint and metal dust would transfer and should be avoided.


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## igran7 (Mar 23, 2008)

Cav, respect is duly reciprocated  I concur that any transfer of dust or paint would show up on light colored wood, but obviously the black paint would leave a more severe blemish than metal dust by itself.


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## Dario (Mar 23, 2008)

Lets not forget that metal (dust or not) does react with wood in varying degrees so it is better to minimize contamination as much as possible.


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## Rifleman1776 (Mar 23, 2008)

Prevention is the best solution. However, 'stuff' does happen. If you get bushing dust, or other dirt, on a light colored turned object just wipe it off with denatured alcohol a/k/a DNA. This will raise the grain slightly and require another final sanding but that's not a big deal.


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## JohnU (Mar 24, 2008)

I thought it lookeds as if the maple was burnt a little also.  If so, slow down your sanding speed.  Like above, I use DNA prior to sealing, but have had dust from some like paduak, get it the maple.  I like the CA prior to sanding and will have to give that a try.


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## rjwolfe3 (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks so much for all the comments.  I feel a lot better about working with light wood now that I know what to do.  Just some follow up info.  The sandpaper I use is the cloth backed stuff that comes in the 5 roll set from PSI and I sand at slow speed.  Not sure the brand name.  The light wood in the picture is poplar.  The bushings have no black left on them because I get too close with the sandpaper.  I think the problem is the sealing before sanding which I am going to try next time.  I noticed with a pen that has all light wood the "dirt" is located at just the ends so I am going to make the assumption it is the bushing dust transferring and adjust accordingly.  Once I get some more funds I am really thinking of switching to mandrel-less turning.  Thanks again for the info.


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## randyrls (Mar 25, 2008)

> _Originally posted by rjwolfe3_
> 
> try next time.  I noticed with a pen that has all light wood the "dirt" is located at just the ends so I am going to make the assumption it is the bushing dust transferring and adjust accordingly.  Once I get some more funds I am really thinking of switching to mandrel-less turning.  Thanks again for the info.



Rob;  The suggestions about denatured alcohol and putting something next to the blank are good ones.  I also sand / file my bushings so they are smaller (about .005")than the finished diameter of the pen.  I don't ding my tools on the bushings or get sanding debris, and I always use calipers to make sure the blanks are the correct size.

Tip: 4" Digital calipers are cheap.  Set the calipers using the fittings, then zero the calipers at this point.  Now when measuring the blank size, you see how much you need to take off!


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## loglugger (Mar 25, 2008)

I have found that after using CA for a finish and geting a light coat of CA on the bushings, be careful not to get so much that it will change the size of the bushings, and being careful with the sand paper will eliminate most of the problem of metal transfer. The more you do it the easier it gets.
Bob


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## chigdon (Mar 25, 2008)

It can come from the bushings but years ago when I stopped using black wet/dry sandpaper and went to Finkat paper from Craft Supply it went away for me totally.  I don't use sanding sealer or pre-coat with thin CA, even though I agree with those ideas, and am really not all that careful to stay away from the bushings either.  I really believe the sandpaper is key.


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## leehljp (Mar 26, 2008)

> _Originally posted by chigdon_
> 
> It can come from the bushings but years ago when I stopped using black wet/dry sandpaper and went to Finkat paper from Craft Supply it went away for me totally.  I don't use sanding sealer or pre-coat with thin CA, even though I agree with those ideas, and am really not all that careful to stay away from the bushings either.  I really believe the sandpaper is key.



I am not familiar with US sandpaper that much, but if I read Chigdon's comments correctly, I agree with what he is saying. I did what I mentioned in my previous post, but I also did one other thing - I use white sand sandpaper in Japan on light woods. I have found that if I use black or dark gray backed sandpapers, I can get dust similar to bushing dust on light wood. 

For that reason, I keep white sanded sandpaper, a light gray, a brown/tan, and an almost black sandpaper and use them according to the color of the wood that I am turning. When I use segmented wood with at least one being holy or something close, I use the white or tan sandpaper.


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## TomKitten (Mar 26, 2008)

Another thing to beware of is using EEE-Ultra Shine, from u Beaut.  This stuff causes a chemical reaction in bushings that causes dark staining if you make the mistake of going in the wrong direction during application.  Terrible stuff.


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## Nolan (Mar 26, 2008)

I do like Dario said and use CA to seal the wood as I sand. I just keep it sealed with thin as I go.


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