# Inlace Acrylester Blanks



## Smitty37 (Jan 22, 2014)

Today I tried turning 3 inlace acrylester blanks and had all three 'blow' uo on me.  All went when there was still about 1/8th to go before they would be at the bushing all went suddenly with large chunks broken out, they were not hot the first I was using a sharp Versa-Chisel the last two I was using a very sharp carbide tool and very light pressure, making very thin cuts. I've heard you need to be careful with this material but this seems rediculous.  Is this common or did I miss something in reading the instructions on how to turn this material.


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## ed4copies (Jan 22, 2014)

Sorry Smitty,
That is the nature of that material.

Send the pen request to Chasper---he does hundreds of them.  I did some, in the past, but always planned on a couple to "warm up" before the real ones needed to be turned.


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## SteveJ (Jan 22, 2014)

I think I have about a 50% failure/blowout rate when turning it


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## kovalcik (Jan 22, 2014)

It is a finicky material.  I have had luck with both a sharp gouge and a R2 square carbide cutter and very light cuts.


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## sailing_away (Jan 22, 2014)

Try and glue the tubes in with Gorilla glue or Sumo glue.  After I started using either of those, I never had any more blow out.  The glue also works great with brittle woods.  Be sure to work the glue in very well, both sides of the blank.  Let it sit for an hour or two on the side (or with tape to hold the tube in).  It will foam out the ends but is easily cleaned up with a pen mill.


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## Indiana_Parrothead (Jan 22, 2014)

I haven't been able to turn many good ones and the ones I did get was pure luck. Like Ed said if anyone can turn it it would be Chasper. I have. Ever see. Anyone turn pens so fast, 3-4 passes and be is done. And when Ed said hundreds that is in a day...

Mike


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 22, 2014)

Interestingly, I just read the instructions for these from woodturningz for the first time last night   They recommend a skew or fingernail bowl gouge and to Not use any scrapers including carbide tools   

I've only had one that chipped out too much for me and none blow out.  

Funny, I used to be really delicate with inlace   Now I usually just rip in with my gouge and let it chip out if it wants to until it's round then I get careful and use the r2 easy wood tool.   Definitely much different than PR or AA though.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 22, 2014)

Indiana_Parrothead said:


> I haven't been able to turn many good ones and the ones I did get was pure luck. Like Ed said if anyone can turn it it would be Chasper. I have. Ever see. Anyone turn pens so fast, 3-4 passes and be is done. And when Ed said hundreds that is in a day...  Mike



Wow, that's impressive


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## bjbear76 (Jan 22, 2014)

I had less than 50% success rate, I quit turning them.


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## Smitty37 (Jan 22, 2014)

Well I had 5 blanks...I think I'll just cross them off my list of what I'll turn, at 76 life is too short for me to spend the rest of mine trying to get a good one.  And I'll remind myself not to recommend it to anyone.


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## Jim Smith (Jan 22, 2014)

This is strange.  I would consider myself an average turner (at best) and I rarely if ever have blowout problems with this material.  I use 30 minute epoxy to glue in the tubes, turn between centers and always use a large roughing gouge to turn my blanks usually all the way down to sanding time.  The one exception is some of the Truestone blanks where I resort to the carbide tipped tool to turn them down simply because some of those blanks are so darn hard.  I always sharpen my gouge before I start a blank unless I'm turning a couple of short blanks out of wood, then I might get two or three blanks turned between sharpening.

Jim Smith


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## 76winger (Jan 22, 2014)

Dan Masshardt said:


> Interestingly, I just read the *instructions for these from woodturningz* for the first time last night   *They recommend a skew or fingernail bowl gouge* and to Not use any scrapers including carbide tools
> 
> I've only had one that chipped out too much for me and none blow out.
> 
> Funny, I used to be really delicate with inlace   Now I usually just rip in with my gouge and let it chip out if it wants to until it's round then I get careful and use the r2 easy wood tool.   Definitely much different than PR or AA though.



I've not read their instructions, but I always use a skew after rounding with a 3/4 inch roughing gouge. And I can't remember ever having an Inlace blank blow out on me. If the skew gets a little dull, they'll get a little chippy and that's my clue to stop and sharpen. 

I can't turn them as fast as was mentioned for Chasper, but in my own slow process I haven't had the excitement of blank parts flying past my head at bread-neck speeds either!


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 22, 2014)

I think part of it is tool - and that tool being sharp - but the other part is finding the right technique.  

One small degree of angle change and I can go from blowing chips to cutting smooth or vice versa


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## walshjp17 (Jan 22, 2014)

Inlace and I do not get along. :at-wits-end: I have only successfully turned two projects -- a seam ripper and a mini-stylus -- with inlace.  I've tried every sharp tool in my arsenal without much success.  

After I finish up the 300 or 400 wood, TruStone, PR, AA, Alumilite, PVC and cebloplast blanks I have laying around, I may give the 3 or 4 inlace blanks I have left another try. :befuddled:


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## jsmithmarcus (Jan 22, 2014)

I have had a great deal of success using a SHARP skew and light cuts.


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## ed4copies (Jan 22, 2014)

Actually, I found that right after I sharpened my skew, the material was the most fickle.  As the edge became less than razor sharp, my "ribbons" returned.  Maybe I'll do a YouTube on it (Exotics does NOT sell Acrylester---but it makes a nice pen!!)

FWIW,
Ed


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## Ambidex (Jan 22, 2014)

Jim Smith said:


> This is strange.  I would consider myself an average turner (at best) and I rarely if ever have blowout problems with this material.  I use 30 minute epoxy to glue in the tubes, turn between centers and always use a large roughing gouge to turn my blanks usually all the way down to sanding time.  The one exception is some of the Truestone blanks where I resort to the carbide tipped tool to turn them down simply because some of those blanks are so darn hard.  I always sharpen my gouge before I start a blank unless I'm turning a couple of short blanks out of wood, then I might get two or three blanks turned between sharpening.
> 
> Jim Smith


 
I'm with Jim...have not had many problems but I almost always use a roughing gouge for basically all my work. Only had one blowout and I was being too aggressive. I'm not sure if it's because of the relatively small contact point or the fact there's almost never a 90 degree contact point? I also am saying I'm average at best so if what I'm saying doesn't make sense, maybe go back to not being so dang talented:biggrin::tongue:


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## Fatdawg (Jan 22, 2014)

Dan Masshardt said:


> Interestingly, I just read the instructions for these from woodturningz for the first time last night   They recommend a skew or fingernail bowl gouge and to Not use any scrapers including carbide tools
> 
> I've only had one that chipped out too much for me and none blow out.
> 
> Funny, I used to be really delicate with inlace   Now I usually just rip in with my gouge and let it chip out if it wants to until it's round then I get careful and use the r2 easy wood tool.   Definitely much different than PR or AA though.


 


Dan Masshardt said:


> I think part of it is tool - and that tool being sharp - but the other part is finding the right technique.
> 
> One small degree of angle change and I can go from blowing chips to cutting smooth or vice versa


 
I'm not understanding your technique of just ripping into with your gouge and letting it chip out if it wants.


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## ed4copies (Jan 22, 2014)

Well Fred,
The stuff on the floor is never seen by the customer!!

You CAN tear through a 3/4 or 7/8 inch blank until you get close to the half inch you will need.  When you are close, you need to get ribbons.

If you are turning dozens of pens each week, this matters--time is important.  No, it is NOT relaxing, but that is a choice---I preferred to sell more, rather than go at a relaxing pace.  

YMMV!!!!!!


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## scottsheapens (Jan 22, 2014)

Glad to see y'all have trouble with in-lace material.  I thought maybe it was just me being a poor turner.  Some have worked great, but I have had my share of blowouts.  I hate being very close to the finish line and BANG.... The words I use are not for the meek.  

I only do in-lace when absolutely required now.


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## Dan Masshardt (Jan 22, 2014)

Fatdawg said:


> I'm not understanding your technique of just ripping into with your gouge and letting it chip out if it wants.



I've never had a prob with it blowing out.  It's the small chipping toward the end that screws you.  

I'm not saying that I don't use technique and sharp tools.  I'm just saying that if it leaves those telltale chip outs everywhere early in the process, I just don't worry about it.  I don't like spending a lifetime turning one blank.  

When it gets to the time when chip outs would effect the final product, I start getting real careful and it's carbide from then until done.   Slow and gentle.  

The other easy option for those who have trouble is just take a flap disc in an angle grinder.   No prob.


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## rangeric43 (Jan 22, 2014)

I agree with sailaway.glue your blanks with gorilla glue. after squaring up the ends I take thin super glue and soak the ends. this seems to help a lot. don't usually work with this material a lot but when I do it takes forever to get it down to the bushings and keep the heat down. Thats the biggest thing the heat.


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## rangeric43 (Jan 22, 2014)

acrylester is a challenging material to work with. I agree with sailingaway. use gorilla glue to glue in your tubes. after squaring up the ends of the blank I soak the ends with thin super glue. prevents cracks and chip outs towards the end of your carving. hope this helps its a beautiful material and its does take a lot of time and patience. the only time I really use it is on high end pens.


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## rangeric43 (Jan 22, 2014)

sorry guys didn't think my first reply didn't post


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## Wood Butcher (Jan 22, 2014)

I have used the entire line of the Inlace materials and had blowouts too when I first started using it.  Having been a salesman most of my life I learned that when you lost a sale you needed to know the reason or you will lose more.  Close examination of my blowups has proven a couple of things that are the most common cause of the failure.  
#1 the glue up, tube to the blank, has to be really thorough in the glue being all over the tube and the blank.  I've been able to do this with thick CA and with 5 min. epoxy.  You have to have glue contact all over the drilled hole and tube.  
#2 is the drilling of the hole.  You can't drill all the way through, you stop at least 1/8" from going through, 1/4" or more is even better.  You may not see the crack in the Inlace when you drilled through but it's there and it will show up when the tool contacts the crack.
#3 you have to find the best speed and tool for you.  I turn Inlace at 2800rpm+ and use a 3/4" roughing gouge that is freshly sharpened.  
Yeah, it's brittle, just look at the edge where it is all chippy from the sawing apart when it was removed from the mold.  It is polyester resin type material but not the typical "Michael's" stuff.  There are colors and patterns in Inlace that you won't find anywhere else.  Learning how to use it is, in my opinion, worth the time and patience because of the finished product.  A lot of the colors/patterns are so dense that tube painting and reverse painting isn't necessary.  I humbly suggest ordering a bunch of different colors and trying until you get it right using your technique.
JM2CW
WB


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## mark james (Jan 22, 2014)

I've had better success with conventional sharp tools Vs carbide.  I think (my problem) is when I get the leading edge of the R2 slightly digging into the blank it chips/blows up.  When I use it as a following edge, it does seems to work better.  Just me.


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## ed4copies (Jan 22, 2014)

I have a theory that you are FAR LESS LIKELY to have turning problems when you are confident you will succeed.

So, WHATEVER works for you, keep doing it.  If you are blowing up every one---quit for the night.  Some day, you will turn one and hit the "sweet spot".  From then on, you believe you will succeed---and, more often than not, you will be correct!!

FWIW,
Ed


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## larryc (Jan 22, 2014)

I haven't turned an Inlace Acrylester blank yet but I have changed my method of turning on all acrylic blanks since I read here (I don't remember who) mentioning the flapper disc method on an angle grinder. I kept having blowouts on the circuit board blanks until I read about this method and now I "turn" all of my acrylic blanks using no metal tools - just sandpaper. Maybe this isn"t true turning but the customer can't tell the difference and my wallet can.


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## SteveG (Jan 22, 2014)

I am among those that have little to no problems with the infamous Acrylester. This doe not mean that I like every blank that comes along, but if you have some of these blanks, I may be interested to purchase or swap for them (or SOME of them). Probably four or more to make it worth the postage and effort. Pm me if you want to give it a shot.


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## mrrichieboy (Jan 22, 2014)

I've turned about 100 Inlace Acrylester blanks from pens to the large stuff for Ice Cream scoops and projects of that sort.  Most of what everyone says above is true....you must have razor sharp tools, if you start to loose your ribbon or feel like you have to push the tool, sharpen it immediately!  Whenever I order them I always buy an extra one or two depending on the project.  Even if you did it correctly, it still might blow...just the slightest catch when you are close to your finished diameter can blow up on you.  

Do not ever use Carbide tools on them, they won't work on it.  Don't use scrapers on them either...shatter city!!!  I use a 3/4" roughing gouge down to about 1 /32" from finished diameter, then a skew on it's side at a down angle like a scraper...sharpened with the burr up and I take out all any uneven areas and chips.

They wear like iron...nothing else on the market wears that well...I've got pens that are 5+ years old without a scratch on them, but the pen kit is wearing away.  The depth and colors are amazing.  But I know that when I turn one, I'm going to be taking much longer than a normal acrylic pen.  You might want to go a bit slower with your lathe speed, I used to turn them around 3,000 and blew out about 1/2 of them, I now turn them around 1,500 and have far fewer problems.---Rich


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## Smitty37 (Jan 22, 2014)

Thanks for all the info....I'm going to stick with my decision to stay away from it.  I have neither the patience nor the inclination to have to spend either the time or the money to deal with them.  And given the fact that I like wood better anyway I don't see any reason to get  frustrated by continuing to blow them.  maybe I'll turn my last two until they are round then get out the sandpaper (probably not).


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## kovalcik (Jan 23, 2014)

Smitty37 said:


> maybe I'll turn my last two until they are round then get out the sandpaper (probably not).


 
Maybe a couple lucky customers will get Freebees.:biggrin:


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## Smitty37 (Jan 23, 2014)

kovalcik said:


> Smitty37 said:
> 
> 
> > maybe I'll turn my last two until they are round then get out the sandpaper (probably not).
> ...


Well maybe not - I wouldn't want ExoticBlanks to think I was trying to steal their customers.:biggrin::biggrin:


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## Jim Burr (Jan 23, 2014)

Smitty37 said:


> Thanks for all the info....I'm going to stick with my decision to stay away from it.  I have neither the patience nor the inclination to have to spend either the time or the money to deal with them.  And given the fact that I like wood better anyway I don't see any reason to get  frustrated by continuing to blow them.  maybe I'll turn my last two until they are round then get out the sandpaper (probably not).


 
Life is to short to turn crap blanks!! Think out of the three I had, two made it out. I use a Thompson 3/8 V bowl gouge with a shear cut sharpened on a Tormek. 30 minutes to get it to size. Like you I have neither the time or inclination to waster my time on something that can be found in Alumilite or PR. 80 grit gouge isn't a bad idea!!!


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## CrimsonKeel (Jan 23, 2014)

I get mine close and then wet sand the rest.  my problem is small chips coming out and so i sand the last few MM.  this stuff sands way faster than most acrylics anyway.
the final results are worth the pain.

btw i blow more of them out drilling than turning


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## Chasper (Jan 23, 2014)

For inlace acrylester I use a scraper down to about 90% and finish it off with a skew.  I only use cheap HHS tools, I keep them sharp, but not razor sharp.  I don't believe the type of glue makes any difference, I usually use CA.  Blow outs are caused by pre-existing cracks (from drilling usually) or tool handling.

I've turned hundreds of them and early on I destroyed a few.  Practice, practice, practice.


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## Smitty37 (Jan 23, 2014)

OK - I did it - I turned the blank down to round and then I got some 40 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper, followed by 80 grit, followed by 150 grit, then 240, 320, 400, 600 then all 9 wet micromesh.  It is a beautiful pen.


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## Mike Powell (Jan 23, 2014)

Great looking pen Sir!


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## Smitty37 (Jan 23, 2014)

It has a tiny chip under the clip that happened when I dropped the blank after it was finished....not big enough to make me want to fix it (since I'm keeping the pen for my own use) but it has convinced me that I wouldn't sell a pen with these blanks too brittle to suit me.


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## Charlie_W (Jan 23, 2014)

Nice Job on the pen Smitty!


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## alphageek (Jan 23, 2014)

Smitty37 said:


> Thanks for all the info....I'm going to stick with my decision to stay away from it.  I have neither the patience nor the inclination to have to spend either the time or the money to deal with them.  And given the fact that I like wood better anyway I don't see any reason to get  frustrated by continuing to blow them.  maybe I'll turn my last two until they are round then get out the sandpaper (probably not).



Smitty,

You would NOT be the first to stay away.   My younger brother, who is better and more patient than me with most things swore off on that same material long ago.   It does make a pretty pen, but he hated it.

I have had pretty good luck once I got my drill doctor and got comfortable with my turning tools, I've had very good luck with doing inlace pens.  

However, its not a product that I'd recommend to most turners nor is it something I do often anymore.   (of course its been months since my last pen of any kind so that doesn't say much :frown: )


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## Smitty37 (Jan 23, 2014)

alphageek said:


> Smitty37 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for all the info....I'm going to stick with my decision to stay away from it. I have neither the patience nor the inclination to have to spend either the time or the money to deal with them. And given the fact that I like wood better anyway I don't see any reason to get frustrated by continuing to blow them. maybe I'll turn my last two until they are round then get out the sandpaper (probably not).
> ...


 Tell me about it -- my collection still has a hole just waiting...


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## Dbakepah1 (Feb 3, 2014)

mrrichieboy said:


> I've turned about 100 Inlace Acrylester blanks from pens to the large stuff for Ice Cream scoops and projects of that sort.  Most of what everyone says above is true....you must have razor sharp tools, if you start to loose your ribbon or feel like you have to push the tool, sharpen it immediately!  Whenever I order them I always buy an extra one or two depending on the project.  Even if you did it correctly, it still might blow...just the slightest catch when you are close to your finished diameter can blow up on you.
> 
> Do not ever use Carbide tools on them, they won't work on it.  Don't use scrapers on them either...shatter city!!!  I use a 3/4" roughing gouge down to about 1 /32" from finished diameter, then a skew on it's side at a down angle like a scraper...sharpened with the burr up and I take out all any uneven areas and chips.
> 
> They wear like iron...nothing else on the market wears that well...I've got pens that are 5+ years old without a scratch on them, but the pen kit is wearing away.  The depth and colors are amazing.  But I know that when I turn one, I'm going to be taking much longer than a normal acrylic pen.  You might want to go a bit slower with your lathe speed, I used to turn them around 3,000 and blew out about 1/2 of them, I now turn them around 1,500 and have far fewer problems.---Rich


I'm glad you mentioned that they wear like iron.  I have made quite a few and have always wondered if they are so brittle and chip so easily while working with the material if it will crack and chip on the pen while being used/possibly dropped.   I love the way the finished product looks.


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## Marc (Feb 3, 2014)

Turn them fast.  Almost as fast as your lathe will go.  

I don't have the success rate attributed to Chasper, but I do get better than 90%.  I do sand down the corners to reduce the early rough ride.  I do use lots of Epoxy to glue in the tubes.  Like Dan, I use the r2 radius EWT cutter.  I have also had success with a carbide tipped spindle gouge and a Very Sharp skew before using the EWT cutter.

These blanks are generally a pain in the ass to develop the touch, but you can get a superior finish compared to other acryllics.  I never recommend customers do these unless they have had significant time in the saddle with other acryllics.  These are definitely not user friendly blanks.


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## Charlie_W (Feb 3, 2014)

Yes, the inlace acrylester blanks are brittle and chippy. I take the corners off with my bandsaw and even ease the ends by sanding to make my initial turning safer. Try different tools to see what works for you.
Here is a pic of an inlace ice cream scoop I did over the holidays.


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## Dbakepah1 (Feb 3, 2014)

Charlie_W said:


> Yes, the inlace acrylester blanks are brittle and chippy. I take the corners off with my bandsaw and even ease the ends by sanding to make my initial turning safer. Try different tools to see what works for you.
> Here is a pic of an inlace ice cream scoop I did over the holidays.


Beautiful!


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## rblakemore (Feb 7, 2014)

*Inlace is a pain, with care it is very good*

The inlace is very difficult to work with, chips easily, and cracks far too easily.  I have lost several blanks and had to replace them; but, with perseverence and patience it is worth it. The result is great, inlace is not my first choice and I only use it when I have to.


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