# Craft Coat dipping method



## bgio13 (Dec 24, 2014)

Didn't want to hijack a thread, so I decided to post my results using Craft Coat as a dipping finish. I have been using a different product with good results, but wanted to try something different. I will update this thread and post photos at each stage of finishing. The first photo is of a couple of mallee burl blanks. I start sanding at 400 grit and use the Enduro sanding sealer from General Finishes to create a slurry to seal the blank and fill in any imperfections or open grain. Switch to 600 grit and repeat. I move on to Abralon pads starting with 1000, then 2000 and finally 4000. This leaves the blank nice and smooth. Check out the photo, this is what the blank looks like after this step.


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## bgio13 (Dec 24, 2014)

Next step is to set the lathe as slow as it will go, and apply 6 coats of sanding sealer, waiting at least a minute or two between coats. Set the blanks aside and let cure overnight. Set lathe speed to 1250 and starting with 3200 MM polish blanks just enough to even out the ridges. Move on to 3600 and finally 4000 MM. After that process the blanks look like this,


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## mtassie (Dec 24, 2014)

I just received some, I'll have to try it


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## OOPS (Dec 24, 2014)

I noticed your dipping setup and wanted to ask you about it.  I have done quite a bit of dipping with water-based polyurethane.  I too use bushings, but I also have a rubber washer, then a metal washer, above the bearing but underneath the nut.  I wanted to make sure that the poly did not seep in and coat the inside of the tube.  Do you have any problems with that?  If not, perhaps I can omit the washers from my next dip.  


Thanks.


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## bgio13 (Dec 24, 2014)

OOPS said:


> I noticed your dipping setup and wanted to ask you about it.  I have done quite a bit of dipping with water-based polyurethane.  I too use bushings, but I also have a rubber washer, then a metal washer, above the bearing but underneath the nut.  I wanted to make sure that the poly did not seep in and coat the inside of the tube.  Do you have any problems with that?  If not, perhaps I can omit the washers from my next dip.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Bill, I have never had any poly seep into the tubes. I too have used a couple of different polyurethanes and they all had different viscosities and never had a problem. There seems to be a little dried urethane on the threads under the nut, but the nuts seem to hold everything nice and tight.


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## bgio13 (Dec 24, 2014)

Here are the blanks after their first dip. I'll let them dry overnight and reverse them before dip number two.


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## OOPS (Dec 26, 2014)

Thanks for your advice.  I will try dipping with your method next time and see if it works for me.


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## bgio13 (Dec 26, 2014)

OOPS said:


> Thanks for your advice.  I will try dipping with your method next time and see if it works for me.



Good luck Bill, I would like to hear how it works for you, or if you do find something down the road changes in your method.


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## bgio13 (Dec 26, 2014)

Here are the blanks after the second dip. They seem to be starting to show some depth.


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## Wildman (Dec 27, 2014)

If CC is a deep penetrating finish specially formulated for hard to finish exotic hard woods, why six coats of sanding sealer? The first coat of General product should raise the grain and light sanding all that is needed. Better yet wet the blank, raise the grain, let dry lightly sand, and start dipping. 

My personal experience using sealers depending upon sealer used too many coats can cause bubbles, orange peel, or soften top coat of film finishes. Another problem is compatibility between sealer and top coat. 

 A one pound cut of un-waxed shellac still one of the best sealers you can use whether using solvent or water base film finish top coat. 

When to Use Sanding Sealer / Rockler How-to

Many experienced finishers just do not use sealers they rather thin whatever finish using for first coat(s). Have to be careful thinning with WB finishes.   

Sealers only have one purpose in life and that is let you get a faster build of finish on a piece of wood. If want to fill pores use a filler.  JMHO, if finish is self leveling and you let dry between coats might find do not need any filler. Getting that finish level will require sanding between coats.

Problem with some water base finishes they tend to look pale on light woods and make dark woods look washed out. You can add a little dye to the finish to stop that.  Some makers add something to their WB finishes to impart an amber hue.  To many coats of some of some WB finishes will see bubbles and orange peel. Just sand back until gone and apply another coat.


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## galoot_loves_tools (Jan 23, 2015)

I use a similar process but with General Finishes Enduro-var water-based poly. I use either a 1 or 2 lb cut of Zinsser Sealcoat de-waxed shellac, applied while the blank is spinning, with 2 coats. I sand the sealed blanks with 500 or 600 grit paper just enough to take the gloss off of the shellac. I don't sand any wood or sealer at higher than 600 grit. Two coats of Enduro-var over 500 or 600 grit sanded wood results in a smooth, high gloss finish after micro-meshing and polishing the varnish. I dip the blanks twice and reverse the blank on the threaded rod between coats. With Enduro-var, I wait less than 15 min before reversing the blank and re-dipping, no sanding between coats. Then I let the blank cure for at least 24 hours (while in a rack sitting on an oil-filled electric heater) before polishing.

Also, having tried both applying varnish with a cloth on a spinning blank and dipping the blanks, dipping results in a superior finish that rivals CA in every respect.


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## William Menard (Jan 23, 2015)

@galoot, doesn't this product dry with a slightly amber color? So unless your only using this with wood, it could actually change the color of your work ( dipping alligator jawbone blanks and the sort )


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