# Removing Sanding Dust - Leopardwood



## David Conley (Jul 1, 2009)

Greetings. 
I am new to the site (and turning) and appreciate the quality of advice and attitude I have seen here.

I am having trouble removing sanding dust from Leopardwood. I have read related posts on this site and others, and have yet to try everything, but want to get additional advice. 

I started sanding with 120 through 400, then brass wool, on to micromesh and finished the pen with eee and Mylands, then noticed what I figure is sanding dust, so I started over so to speak, removing the finish using sandpaper and starting over on one piece. 





I realized that during the original go-around, I had not removed the dust at each stage, so I did this time (or rather tried to) using the air hose at every stage, and one or more of the following: a Norton dry micro fiber towel, moistened paper towels, a polishing cloth, the bench brush, my finger nails, <repeat>. Nothing worked well except at the brass wool stage I think the most was removed.

I hesitated to use a tack cloth because on a previous blank I did not like the gum it left and felt it might make this situation worse.

I am just about to try a tooth brush and a dryer cloth - separately.

Here is a shot of the unfinished and finished piece. 





Advice? Thanks in advance.

David


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## bfgladden (Jul 1, 2009)

I usually rub the piece down with some denatured alcohol.  It works for me on most of the woods I use, but I've never worked with Leopardwood.


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## rjwolfe3 (Jul 1, 2009)

I can't help ya much with your question but wanted to say welcome to the forum!


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## hunter-27 (Jul 1, 2009)

I use leopardwood often, wipe it with a clean cloth whith eiter DNA if you are set on the mylands or accelerator when you dump the mylands for ca.


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## parnelli_97 (Jul 2, 2009)

I had the same problem with some cherry and I used DNA, turn off the lathe and wipe with the grain.


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## Munsterlander (Jul 2, 2009)

agree with hunter - accelerator.


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## holmqer (Jul 2, 2009)

I tend to use Acetone just before applying any finish to both clean off any dust and get rid of any surface oils.


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## philb (Jul 2, 2009)

A screwed up piece of kitchen roll or application pad works for me! And burnishes the wood while your at it!

Although have never used brass wool, so maybe that's the dust that's getting left behind?


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## RussFairfield (Jul 2, 2009)

This is a confusing question because there is no easy answer. 

Some will say that blowing it off with air is the only way.
Others will say that the air only blows the dust farther into the wood where it comes out into the finish.

Some will say to use a paper towel that is wet with "something" is the only thing that works.
Others will say that only creates a mud that is compacted into the wood grain and it stays there after the "something" has evaporated.

Some will say that alcohol or CA accelerator is the only "Something" to use to wet the paper towel.
Others will warn that alcohol contains water, and the residual accelerator can cause problems with a CA finish.

Some will say to use a paper towel because it is safer around spinning wood than cloth.
Others will say not to use paper because it leaves lint on the wood.

I have tried them all, and can't tell any difference. I prefer air because it is fast, clears the entire area, and it works for me. Others will see it differently.


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## johncrane (Jul 2, 2009)

I agree with our Master Air works for me too.


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## VisExp (Jul 2, 2009)

A couple more thoughts to add to what Russ has said.  

It may not just be sanding dust that is contaminating the blank.  It may be residue from the bushings or the abrasive you are using.  Try using delrin bushings and non-abrasive steel wool.  I use abranet sand paper and only sand to 600 before applying my finish.

Looking at the first picture you posted, the wood has a very open grain.  A couple of sealing coats of thin CA would fill these pores, leaving no gaps for the sanding dust to get trapped in.


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## randyrls (Jul 2, 2009)

David Conley said:


> I am having trouble removing sanding dust from Leopardwood. I have read related posts on this site and others, and have yet to try everything, but want to get additional advice.



David;  This is my regimen for sanding for wood!
Sand with 320, 400, 600, 1200, and finally 2000.  I use only wet/dry paper. 

With each grit of sandpaper


Sand with lathe spinning (about 15 seconds).​
Stop lathe and sand lengthwise while turning handwheel.
Wipe blank lengthwise with denatured alcohol and paper towel.
Turn on lathe and finish wiping blank.  Go to next grit.
It tales me about 10 minutes to go thru the grits of paper.

Finally I apply a CA finish.  For gloss finish use Microgloss.  For a satin matte finish that looks better on wood, hit the blank with some 0000 steel wool.


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## hilltopper46 (Jul 2, 2009)

My experience with leopard wood is that it is a good candidate for the "wet sanding with CA technique."

Get the barrel to the shape you want and and sand it to 220 or 320.  Then take 320 sandpaper generously moistened with thin ca and "wet sand" the blank - don't be afraid to add more thin CA.  Build up a slurry and when it gets to a creamy consistency, start working it back and forth across the blank and reducing the pressure on the sandpaper. In effect, spread the slurry evenly over the length of the blank.  Then walk away and let it set up, preferably overnight.

After it is set up, you can use your skew to trim off the excess slurry if necessary.  Sand the barrel down until the grain of the wood comes through again, but the slurry should have filled the grain of the leopard wood and allow you to build up a smooth finish.


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