# A Knot for Dummies - like me, (new pics added)



## skiprat (Jul 28, 2007)

No matter which way you cut your blank when making a cross ( Celtic Knot ) don't cut all the way through. Use a slightly bigger blank and just cut about 3/4 the way through. This means the blank will always stay perfectly aligned. If you use a tablesaw then lower the blade. If you use a chopsaw, then raise the blade using the depth stop. If you use a bandsaw you could do what I did. Just put a clamp on the end of the mitre slide to act as a stop. Hope this helps

First cut, see how it doesn't cut through the blank completely





Second cut...





Fourth cut...






Drill and add tube...






Turn as normal...







Heres how I cut for thin stuff....
The clamp on the end of the mitre acts as the depth stop ( and prevents me cutting all the way through my zero clearance fence)







Hope this helps


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## Milpaul (Jul 28, 2007)

Don't think a "dummy" would come up with this! [] Excellent tip, you can now instantly tell if the added piece is the correct width of the material you are taking out.


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## Rmartin (Jul 28, 2007)

Very nice, but where's the finished pen, eh?

Rmartin


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## skiprat (Jul 28, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Rmartin_
> <br />Very nice, but where's the finished pen, eh?
> 
> Rmartin



The item I was making isn't a pen. It wasn't the object of the thread either.[] I'll post it in OTWM tomorrow[]
It is now 1.07am here and I'm going to bed.[xx(]


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## Texatdurango (Jul 28, 2007)

Great idea.  One of the biggest hassles I face is keeping the two halves aligned when gluing the segments back together.

Thanks for the idea.


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## fiferb (Jul 28, 2007)

Outstanding! This will simplify this quite a bit.[]


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## Darley (Jul 29, 2007)

Nice way, is that copper inlay?? hoo! I think it's


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## UKpenmaker (Jul 29, 2007)

Great idea Steven, what happened to cut number 3[][].
Any news on whether you can make the meeting or not.


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## skiprat (Jul 29, 2007)

> _Originally posted by UKpenmaker_
> <br />Great idea Steven, what happened to cut number 3[][].
> Any news on whether you can make the meeting or not.



Hi Andrew, the pic of 'cut 4' already has cut 3 in it. I just forgot to take a seperate pic of it.[:I]

I doubt I will be able to make the meet I'm afraid.[] But I'm still working on it


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## JimM (Jul 29, 2007)

Nicely engineered for the various cuts.

Do you sand the thin stock? I think I have some plans somewhere to build a thin stock sander.


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## Darley (Jul 29, 2007)

> _Originally posted by JimM_
> <br />Nicely engineered for the various cuts.
> 
> Do you sand the thin stock? I think I have some plans somewhere to build a thin stock sander.



Jim that would be interesting to see if you can provide the info, thanks


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## Ron in Drums PA (Jul 29, 2007)

Can't wait to see the finished pen!


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## GaryMGg (Jul 29, 2007)

Steven,
It is so coincidental that you posted this; we were in the shop yesterday AM doing just what you've shown. Then, I come on line and here it is. [8D]
Gary


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## risherse (Jul 29, 2007)

Thanks for sharing your idea with another dummy. Smart thinking!


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## Ligget (Jul 29, 2007)

Great idea, hope you get cover for the job so you can attend the meeting.
And you ain`t no dummy either!


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## skiprat (Jul 29, 2007)

I snagged the Bocote blank[] Blunt tool!!!
So I made another one with a piece of oak from Andrew( UKpenmaker )
This is still on the lathe, but I'm reasonably happy about the way all the lines are still aligned. The 'flat' is a bit out but I can bring it back with a little more biased sanding. You can see how much I've corrected it by comparing with the second pic. I got the router way out[:I]




<br />





<br />


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## skiprat (Jul 29, 2007)

> _Originally posted by JimM_
> <br />Nicely engineered for the various cuts.
> 
> Do you sand the thin stock? I think I have some plans somewhere to build a thin stock sander.



I would love to see the plans too Jim. If you have an electronic copy, please would you send me a set.[8D]
The copper in this is just flattened water pipe


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## JimM (Jul 29, 2007)

> _Originally posted by skiprat_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



PM on its way.


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## MDWine (Jul 30, 2007)

ABSOLUTELY STELLAR!!  That is AWESOME!!

Thanks for posting it, I'll bet we see a "lot-more-knots" in the upcoming weeks!![][]

(I know you will from me!)


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## fstepanski (Jul 30, 2007)

Excellent idea skiprat!  Makes for my wanting to give this a Go!!


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## neoWizard (Jul 31, 2007)

That is a really good idea.  I have done a couple of 'knot' pens, and they look okay, but are not perfect.  I'll try this.

Thanks.


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## pmpartain (Jul 31, 2007)

That is a great idea!  I can't wait to try it!


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## johncrane (Jul 31, 2007)

Top job looks great Steven, also mate what Glue have you found to be best for gluing brass to wood.  l have just bought some Devcon 2ton epoxy which a lot of knife makers use to glue there handles,  l haven't tried it out yet.


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## skiprat (Aug 1, 2007)

> _Originally posted by johncrane_
> <br />Top job looks great Steven, also mate what Glue have you found to be best for gluing brass to wood.  l have just bought some Devcon 2ton epoxy which a lot of knife makers use to glue there handles,  l haven't tried it out yet.



Hi John,
I have only used CA on all of my joints whether wood, plastic, brass,ally etc. All of the simple joints have stood up very well. 
I have had some spectacular failures with it too, but I 'm not sure if it was because the tool was blunt or I was being a bit aggresive.
Most of the time I use med or thick. Only because the thin stuff sets before I get the joint together.

I know loads of folks say that CA / heat don't mix but a while back I stretched an acrylic blank with a heat gun. I CA'd two little offcuts to each end. I then hung it up and kept adding weights to it. I will try and find the photo I took, but I reckon I got about 6kg on a 1cm sq area and stretched the blank by 1/2 inch. The joint never did come apart and believe me, that blank was really hot!![]


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