# Reaming



## BradG (Sep 17, 2015)

Hi guys
Id like to make some blanks which are reamed so the components can be press fitted into them without the need of the brass tube.

I've not done any reaming before so any pointers would be good? 
The blanks will be for a jr gent


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## magpens (Sep 17, 2015)

I use parallel-sided adjustable reamers for various jobs.  Here's a link to two tool stores I buy them from (online):

KBC Tools & Machinery

Buy Adjustable Blade Reamer Set Of 7pcs at Busy Bee Tools

For quality, I go with the first.

These reamers are a bit of a pain to use and I would not rely on them for accuracy better than +/- 0.004" unless you take special measures to adjust and check their size and parallelism.

A much more expensive alternative is chucking reamers which are of fixed size.  You can look them up on kbctools.com

Of course, you would have preferred suppliers in the UK.


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## builtbybill (Sep 17, 2015)

Will the blanks be able to withstand the amount of pressure that will be required to hold the components in place?  Isn't that why tubes are used in the first place, to keep the blanks from splitting?


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## magpens (Sep 17, 2015)

Maybe Brad is going to use stainless steel blanks.


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## KenV (Sep 17, 2015)

Hand operated reamer OR mechanized reaming on the metal lathe?


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## BradG (Sep 17, 2015)

The blanks will be aluminium, and certainly thick enough :wink:

Ken, on the lathe. 

Mal, thanks for the links. I like the sound of chucking one up so il do a search for those ones once I figure out the internal tube diameter of a Jr. The guide link seems to be broken in the library which contains all the tube sizes.


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## KenV (Sep 17, 2015)

On the lathe, hard to beat the expandable dreamers especially in the early development stages.


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## TurtleTom (Sep 17, 2015)

Expandable dreamers, oh my.


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## skiprat (Sep 17, 2015)

Why the need for a reamer? Your press fit parts only need about 10mm depth. I would be shocked to find that your new fancy lathe using a short boring bar ( either tailstock or toolpost mounted) didn't have the accuracy to do that...


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## BradG (Sep 18, 2015)

Skip, the boring bars I have are too big for a pen blank. I generally have to drill out 17mm just fit my boring bar in lol. I thought reamers would be the best approach, but if you're suggesting sourcing some smaller boring tools il look at that too


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## Nikitas (Sep 18, 2015)

Is the tube for a JR. Gent II?? If so I have the measurements for that one...


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## BradG (Sep 18, 2015)

Nikitas said:


> Is the tube for a JR. Gent II?? If so I have the measurements for that one...



I think I have it. I've been advised 9.66mm and 11.88mm for the internal diameters of the brass tubes


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## Paul in OKC (Sep 18, 2015)

Ream on the lathe. Usually drill closest size under, within about .01 to .015 (.25mm, is that about right conversion?!) then ream.


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## plantman (Sep 18, 2015)

Brad; I use my tapered reamers most on the  time when I need to make any adjustments on my blanks or tubes. Also they will round out a misshapened hole or tube. Sort of a one size fits all tool. Adjustable reamers also work fine, but can get expensive if more than a couple are needed.    Jim  S


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## Paul in OKC (Sep 18, 2015)

Not sure aboout shipping, but I have done business with  Drill and Cutters (Welcome to Drills and Cutters | Drillsandcutters.com) They have a very wide variety of sizes in .001 increments. I personnally am not a big fan of the adjustable reamers, but they have their purpose.


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## keithbyrd (Sep 18, 2015)

I bought the two drill sizes mentioned above and simply drilled and pressed the components into an aluminum blank.  No special tools required and worked great!


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## PenPal (Sep 18, 2015)

Brad I use surplus end mills for that final accurate cut set them in the tool post with a slight kick in depending on the mill there are more than one beaut cutting edge I was going frantic trying to get accurate drills so when I buy I mike and buy under and under ones the dealers are amused but I have learned oils aint oils long ago.

Peter.


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## Ironwood (Sep 18, 2015)

Peter, thanks for the tip on the endmills, I will use that one. Thanks Mate.


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