# Help with spray lacquer finish on pendants



## grz5 (Dec 19, 2011)

I've applied about 10 coats of minwax clear gloss spray lacquer to finish some pendants.  The finish was applied in light coats where I was spraying from about 12" away.   I've noticed that the spray lacquer leaves a surface comprised of many small bumps instead of a smooth one.  

I've seen people mention that as the lacquer cures the finish with smooth out.  Is this true or should I consider attempting to sand and buff the finish to smooth it out?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.


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## its_virgil (Dec 19, 2011)

I don't spray lacquer but wipe it on from a can. Here is my best answer:
Read this:http://www.woodturnerruss.com/FinishingSecrets.html
Do a good turn daily!
Don



grz5 said:


> I've applied about 10 coats of minwax clear gloss spray lacquer to finish some pendants. The finish was applied in light coats where I was spraying from about 12" away. I've noticed that the spray lacquer leaves a surface comprised of many small bumps instead of a smooth one.
> 
> I've seen people mention that as the lacquer cures the finish with smooth out. Is this true or should I consider attempting to sand and buff the finish to smooth it out?
> 
> ...


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## Texatdurango (Dec 19, 2011)

grz5 said:


> I've applied about 10 coats of minwax clear gloss spray lacquer to finish some pendants. The finish was applied in light coats where *I was spraying from about 12" away*. I've noticed that the spray lacquer leaves a surface comprised of many small bumps instead of a smooth one.
> 
> I've seen people mention that as the lacquer cures the finish with smooth out. Is this true or should I consider attempting to sand and buff the finish to smooth it out?
> 
> ...


 Having made a few of these myself and spraying the finish from a can, the first thing comes to mind is to* move in a little closer!*  From 12" away, you are just "fogging the pendants" and will always have a grainy finish.

To be totally honest, mine are a little grainy to the touch but then again I am making wood pendants dangling on a leather strap.  I WANT people to know they are wood and not some plastic.

I'll usually lightly hit the pendant with some 500 grit after the first coat, clean with a dry cloth then spray the second coat and I'm done. 

*TEN *coats..... good grief that sucker must weigh as much as the Hope diamond :biggrin:


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## ragz (Dec 19, 2011)

are you using rattle can or hlvp or airbrush?

Either way you are too far away and the lacquer is hitting the object at near dry. That's ok for the first two mechanical coats but your finish coats need to be full wet. 

Try spraying 2 coats as you have been in even overlapping(if needed depending on size) coats.
Next coat move a little closer and move across at about 75% of the speed you did the first two.
Last coat move a bit closer and spray at slow even pace to where the object looks completely wet. Not dripping wet since that will cause sag problems but fully wet.

If you use an airbrush you can cut the psi way down to 10psi and spray in a pencil sized fan working back and forth to fully cover the dull areas with a wet shiny finish coat. 

I agree with George though 10 coats is alot. I do alot of custom helmet airbrushing with automotive paints and clear coats. I only use a total of 5 coats and most times only 4. The first 2 coats are mechanical coats and are just mistings coats and combined really amount to one coat together with as thin as they are.

To answer your basic question though lacquer does melt into self and is self leveling on flat surfaces.


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## okiebugg (Dec 22, 2011)

*orange peel*

The  defects you are seeing are called orange peel. I suppose because that is what the defects look like. My experience is of having this problem when spraying too far away from the object in question. The second problem I have observed is air temp below about 50 degrees helps cause the defect. Third, the spray lacquer you are using is too cold.

Even though my shop is heated, I use a wall farthest from my working area because of dust. I have a small dining room table I use for stained glass and as a spray booth. I built a small stand out of wood and wire to hold my pens on. I can easily pick them up one at a time to spray them. I have a very small electric space heater that sits on the table and points at the spray area. It sits about 15 inches from the sprayed objects, and keeps the lacquer warm about 5 inches farther away. I spray in another area so as to not create a fire hazard. DONT let your lacquer get anything more that warm.

I'd suggest the same type of set up for yourself. When I have objects like ear rings and other jewelry, I put 5 coats on (one every thirty minutes) and let dry overnight. Then I take the rotary tool with the small flexible sandpaper (about 400 grit) and clean them up. Did not mean to be so windy. Questions, PM Me, I'll take pics and send them to you.

Merry Christmas, Jimmy


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## ctubbs (Dec 22, 2011)

If you are having dry spray problems, and it sounds like that is what you have, go to a good auto body shop and find your local supplier of high quality thinner.  Purchase from them (the body shop guy may even give you a small amount) of their best slow drying thinner.  you can then spray that on the rough lacquer and it will melt and flow out smooth.  You are way too far away from your surface for the pressure and flow you are using.  the paint is nearly completely dry by the time it reaches the pendant.  It will stick but stay in little balls until you wet it with some good thinner.  Be careful and do not get it too wet or ten coats will flow into a run/sag.  Practice on something that does not matter before trying this.  I spent several years painting junk cars into new cars at one of the largest used car dealers in the 70's.  I have made about every mistake with a paint gun that can be done.  Best of luck
Charles


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