# Using aluminum etc. in segmented pen blanks



## andrewleeheck (Jan 13, 2012)

I am considering using aluminum, copper, or other non-ferrous metals in my segmented blanks.  I don't plan to use thick segments--typically just thin strips between larger wood or acrylic segments, or rods drilled across the blanks to create circles.  Are there any special tooling considerations in turning these metal inclusions within the blanks?  Will I tear up my drill bits and/or chisels?  Thanks to everyone in advance for your expertise!


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## hewunch (Jan 13, 2012)

The main thing is use jobber or twist bits. Brad points often tear them up. Thinner matterial is easier to start with. Sand everything flat.


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## paintspill (Jan 13, 2012)

a good place to start (as i did) is with aluminum from a pop (soda) can. you will barely notice the difference from the wood to the metal. and as said above. sand it. to take off the color and so the glue will bite. not sure about the thicker materials though. sorry


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## SteveG (Jan 13, 2012)

When you cut sheet metal like aluminum or brass, your cutting tool may leave a sort of burr or curl at the cut edge. So even if you sanded the material already you need to be sure the surface is flat so you get a good surface-to-surface bond when gluing up the segments. I either sand again or flatten the aluminum using a smooth rod against a flat surface.


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## PenWorks (Jan 13, 2012)

I recomend buying NEW drill bits for drilling your special blanks. I just blew up a couple with aluminum and brass using what I thought was a sharp drill bit(NOT). For the time and effort you put into making or buying a blank with metal, buy a new bit.


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## okiebugg (Jan 14, 2012)

*Metal*



andrewleeheck said:


> I am considering using aluminum, copper, or other non-ferrous metals in my segmented blanks. I don't plan to use thick segments--typically just thin strips between larger wood or acrylic segments, or rods drilled across the blanks to create circles. Are there any special tooling considerations in turning these metal inclusions within the blanks? Will I tear up my drill bits and/or chisels? Thanks to everyone in advance for your expertise!


 
IMHO about the only thing I can add is to use Gorilla Glue and put sections together 1 or 2 at a time and make sure you clamp. 

And another thing.....I use a 45 degree picture frame clamp for clamping the sides together and another clamp for longitudinal clamping. Put the assy. somewhere around a furnace blower grate and it will be ready the next morning.

The reason I say this is experience. CC is great for gluing the pieces together but fails miserably while drilling because the heat generated by the drill bit can't transfer anywhere but back into the metal and with CA joint failure at somewhere around 180 degrees some of the joints will fail no matter how slowly you drill...........FWIW


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## cacardon (Jan 14, 2012)

I have just started using metals in my pens. I used the soda can and it dosent show much being so thin. In my last pen I used 1/16" brass. It took a little longer than normal but it turned out ok. I just use my regular bits and other tools.


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## okiebugg (Jan 14, 2012)

*Metals*



cacardon said:


> I have just started using metals in my pens. I used the soda can and it dosent show much being so thin. In my last pen I used 1/16" brass. It took a little longer than normal but it turned out ok. I just use my regular bits and other tools.


 
FWIW, you can pick up Brass Foil or Copper, or Aluminum foils at hobby lobby. They're not real expensive, but cost more than a bottle of soda. Like soda cam aluminum, you may need to 'fold over' the foil into several pieces to get the thickness you desire.

At Ace hardware, I purchase small rectangles of again, Brass,aluminum, and copper in .010 . they are all by themselves in the back of the store FWIW


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## Petrus (Nov 4, 2018)

*Using aluminum in a segmented pen*

I heard that the aluminum in a pop can didn’t have a consistent thickness and was difficult to notice on the finished pen because it was so thin. So I wanted to try a sheet of aluminum. Which would solve the thickness issues. However, the thinnest sheets of aluminum that I could find, in Vancouver British Columbia, was 0.02. I never thought to check Ace Hardware. With aluminum this thin would I still have heat issues when drilling it?


Thanks for the great tip,
Peter


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## jttheclockman (Nov 4, 2018)

Petrus said:


> I heard that the aluminum in a pop can didn’t have a consistent thickness and was difficult to notice on the finished pen because it was so thin. So I wanted to try a sheet of aluminum. Which would solve the thickness issues. However, the thinnest sheets of aluminum that I could find, in Vancouver British Columbia, was 0.02. I never thought to check Ace Hardware. With aluminum this thin would I still have heat issues when drilling it?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great tip,
> Peter



Pete you are looking at a 6 year old thread. Maybe you would be better to start your own new one. By the way welcome to the sight.

Always will have heat when you add metals for drilling Why do you want so thin?/  Many people including myself get aluminum from Home Depot or lowes. Roof flashing is a nice thickness that shows up well. You can buy it in rolls or squares thy use for step flashing. look in roofing section of any home center. Remember to sand both sides to get rid of any contaminants and give the epoxy ( yes best glue for gluing dissimilar materials) some tooth. Soda can can have the possibility of seeing the painted labels when turned if not sanded off. 

Again welcome.


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