# waxing blanks



## topbind (Feb 4, 2008)

Im starting to experiment with cutting my own blanks from green lumber. When doing so should i just wax the end or the whole blank,and about how long does it take a blank to dry. I do not own a moisture meter so it is just guess work.


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## Rifleman1776 (Feb 4, 2008)

Drying time depends on many factors, kind of wood, environment where it's stored, etc. I think you, and the wood, would be better off if larger pieces were stored properly to dry before milling into blank sizes. When I get a piece, I slab the sides and seal the ends with Anchorseal and put away. If you are wanting to make a blank and pen right now, blanks can be microwaved to remove moisture. I stack on paper plates so air can circulate and zap for 30 second intervals with about a minute rest in between. Nothing scientific, just do it until they 'feel' right. If you do want to cut then dry, seal just the ends.


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## topbind (Feb 4, 2008)

thanks i understand what you are saying


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## Wildman (Feb 12, 2008)

Wood loses water content from end grain faster then across the grain during the drying process. So sealing the ends is all you need to do. If you wax the entire piece of wood you essentially stop the drying process.  

If you seal the ends of the logs and wait a few months before cutting into blanks may find actually have less waste. Also less clean up on bandsaw blade.  Some species are worst than others for gumming up a blade. Talking about three to six months depending upon where you live and climate. 

Species, thickness, and time of year you cut logs and where you live will effect drying time. A general rule trees cut in winter time may have a lower moisture content than a tree cut in spring or summer time. Not sure how that works in a tropical climate. 

Yes, if cut your blanks from freshly cut logs and seal ends will speed up drying time some what. Wouldnâ€™t think about using them for 3 to 6 months. If you want to make pens that require a  5/8" or  3/4" blank donâ€™t cut your wet blanks that size. Since wood shrinks as it dries may want to leave blanks a little fatter and longer  than anticipated.


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## topbind (Feb 12, 2008)

thanks for the tip wildman


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## ElMostro (Feb 12, 2008)

You dont have to use wax.  I use white glue and brush it on.  The white glue dries and you can cut it or take it off on a jointer when you are ready to turn.  For me it is a lot less messier than the wax and I don't have to worry about the wax interfering with the finish.  Besides the glue is always liquid (no need to melt it) and if you buy the cheap one by the gallon it's rather cheap.  Also, if you have some that has expired don't toss it, use it to seal wood.  Not saying this is the best approach but it works for me.

Eugene


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## jrc (Feb 12, 2008)

I've been cutting some of my blanks for 7 years out of green wood and I have never waxed or coated the ends.  Do you want them to dry anytime soon?  Cut them in 18" to 24" X 3/4 x 3/4 or larger. Cross stack and let them dry for a few weeks (do not put them in the sun) then cut into blank size and let dry another few weeks. After a week or so then you can put them in the sun.  When the loose most of there moisture you can speed up the drying time. You will have a little checking on the ends but thats ok, there long enought to trim the checks out.  I still do not understand why people seal up there wood and want it to dry this year. Try new ways, I did and it works for me.


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## Wildman (Feb 13, 2008)

We learned about sealing the ends of log from the lumber industry. Sealing the ends is not a complicated process. I  use both paraffin wax and or latex paint. There are many other products you can use to seal the ends of wet wood. No method or product is fool proof!  The goal here is to slow down or control the drying process and prevent invasion of fungus.  

Half larger logs, removing the pith and seal ends for storage.  3" or 4" logs just seal the ends. It make take me all day and part of the next to process a pickup truck load of wood. Depending upon time of the year, species and part of the tree wood came from, may get some end checking before getting wood processed & stored.  

I store wood outside and in my shop. My goal is simply protect the wood from direct sun light and weather, allow air circulation, which promotes the evaporation of both bound and free water it takes a little time to reach MC. 

I have also cut wet wood and not sealed the ends. It had been sealed before cutting wet 2" x 2"x 14" square was no longer square when dry.  Had kind of diamond shape thing going on. If remember right,  thought it was dry enough at the time I cut it. 

I use weight and feel method to determine how dry wood is.  Donâ€™t own a scale or moisture meter. All of my mistakes end up in the chit can or firewood box.

A cheap primer on the subject comes from a Fine Woodworking on â€œWood and How to Dry It,â€ paid less than $10.00 many years ago not sure if itâ€™s still in print. Today you can find most of the information you need free on the web. Just Google â€œhow to dry wood.â€  

Just donâ€™t over think the wood drying process, hasnâ€™t changed for eons. Choose the simplest methods and procedures which fit your situation.


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