# Drilling the Blank... Help! I'm stuck!



## jgerman

Hello, I decided to try turning a few pens for fun. I picked up supplies and a couple slimline kits. 

My first three pens exploded off of the tube while turning them. I think it's because the holes are a bit too big so the tube isn't getting glued in securely enough.

I'm using a brand new brad point bit (7mm) and using a jacobs chuck in my tailstock. I've set my speed to 500 rpm and I go slow, but the hole is still wider than the bit, every time. I must be getting some wobble or something somewhere but I can't figure it out.

Any help would be much appreciated.


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## Gary Beasley

Put your spur point and live center on the lathe and see if the points line up when you bring the tailstock up. If not you may need to finagle the tailstock into alignment to get your holes drilled. I use a drill press and centering vise for my blanks, never have that problem.
On my old Excelsior lathe I have to hold the tailstock against the front of the bedrails as I lock it down to get good alignment.


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## jttheclockman

I may make a few people angry but I would do away with the brad point bit. With those bits they have a greater tendency to follow grain lines and if the wood you are using is heavy grained that could be a problem. Also it is possible the bit maybe bent. Lay it on a smooth hard surface and roll it. You will tell right away if it is bent. Is your chuck sitting properly in the tailstock??  No dust or dirt on the shaft or the other end. ???


When drilling I like to snug up the lock handle bolt. Just enough to be able to advance the tailstock chuck. I hold the chuck with my left hand to take out any vibration as I advance the bit. 

I assumed you are using wood and not acrylics.


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## Tom T

I use drill press also.  Many other use lathe.  You may be getting a catch when you turn.  That can blow them up big time.  Watch a few YouTube vides from the IAP suppliers and you will see some real good stuff.  Also the IAP library has some great stuff that will help.  Start with how to position the tools.  They need to be real sharp also.


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## CREID

I have to agree with JT. I don't use brad point bits anymore.


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## randyrls

There is a document in the IAP wiki describing blank preparation.  http://www.penturners.org/wiki/Pen_Blank_Preparation

Examine one of the failed blanks,  is the glue on the tube or the blank???   If not on the tube, the tube needs to be "scuffed" with sandpaper.  Some tubes come this way and don't need this step.     

Pull up a chair and set a spell, this is a friendly site and friends are always welcome!

A general location in your profile is helpful, someone may be willing to pay a visit and help.  I am near Harrisburg PA...

Notice that my name is below.  My name is Randy...


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## oldstoker

I use a 6.9mm drill bit. I find that with the 7mm bit with some of the wood used, the hole isn't as snug a fit as with the 6.9mm bit. I use either the drill press or the lathe.

Joe.


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## Ambidex

Just another thought. Do you use epoxy and are you getting complete coverage?


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## JimB

You may not be getting good glue coverage on the brass tube. Look at the pieces that came off. Is there glue on the bare tube and the wood that was in contact with the tube? When I started I had the same problem. Close examination of my broken blanks quickly told me I had a glue up problem.


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## jgerman

Thanks for all of the advice everyone, I'll start running through the suggestions and reporting back.


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## Jhud10

Welcome to the addiction Jeremy. I was going to turn a few pens that was 5 years ago, now I'm in to deep. I'm in Baltimore as well if you need any help just let me know.


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## jgerman

Thanks for the help again everyone! Changing the bit was what ultimately did the trick. I grabbed a twist bit and the hole was exact, but I had to order a 7mm for the slimline kits I have. 

I wound up with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BONLSOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It flexed a bit which made me nervous but I was finally able to turn the pen barrels and move to assembly... I pushed the twist mechanism in too far though (despite the fact that I didn't go to the indent) and ruined it. But I've got the basics ironed out 

Off to order some of those acrylic/wood hybrid blanks


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## randyrls

jgerman said:


> I pushed the twist mechanism in too far though (despite the fact that I didn't go to the indent) and ruined it. But I've got the basics ironed out



Jeremy;  It is possible to salvage a barrel when pushing the transmission in too far.  I've done this myself.  See this link in the IAP Wiki
  The IAP Wiki is a good resource for information about pen turning.

There is another way to do this that with a drilled hole used as a clamp and s couple of washers and screw driver pry bars that is less intensive.  Maybe this week I'll document it.


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## mmayo

When your budget permits, buy a Colt 7 mm pen drill.  That should end all drilling problems if you go slow and clear the chips.  Let it cool down between drilling blanks, especially with acrylic.  I also mark the length of the tube on the drill bit with a marker.  Clear the chips and slow your pressure down as you get close to the mark, especially as you exit.  No blowout will be your reward.


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## howsitwork

If it's still an issue use a 1/4 bit then  effectively ream it out to size with a 6.9 or7mm bit afterwards.
Split point bits (a metal work type bit ) work well. I also vote for SLOW SETTING epoxy as it gap fills if necessary and gives any air bubbles time to escape. If you let it set with the tubes held upright in a warm place (eg the airing cupboard if SWMBO isn't watching) in a plastic bag just incase of epoxy drips.
Really good point about checking tailstock- headstock alignment if you're drilling on the lathe.
Good luck, even then remember "sometimes your the statue other times you're the pigeon"


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