# bowling balls as pen blanks



## DRAT

Ok, so how woud you recommend I cut acrylic and ebonite bowling balls down so I can use them as pen blanks?

What are the safety issues I must consider?

Should I use a band saw or my table saw? And, do I need a diamond blade? Should I cut down the middle first or take a sliver off of one side of the ball to create a flat surface so I can cut the remainder of the ball?

What steps should I take to get the most out of the ball, and keep my fingers all at the same time?

Thanks all,

DrAT


----------



## Wooden Affairs

I believe there is an article in the library.


----------



## arioux

Here:

http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/cuttingbowlingballs.pdf


----------



## its_virgil

DANGEROUS...I did it once and was very disappointed in the amount of useable material. The really nice material we see on the surface is only about 3/4 inch thick and curved.  It was a lot of dirty dangerous work. I actually used a large metal shop automatic metal cutting saw. Once cut in half I used a large cut off saw (for metal) to make slices. I thought it would produce some really nice blanks but for the amount of work to get blanks it was not worth the effort. Fun....yea, a little. But I would not even consider doing it again.  What a waste of time for the end results!

I finally got enough material glued together to make 2 pens....I named them Alpha and Omega....if you get my drift.:biggrin:

There was once an article in the library but not sure where it is now that the library has been organized. Good luck if you try...be careful. I hope your results are better than mine.
Do a good turn daily!
Don



DRAT said:


> Ok, so how woud you recommend I cut acrylic and ebonite bowling balls down so I can use them as pen blanks?
> 
> What are the safety issues I must consider?
> 
> Should I use a band saw or my table saw? And, do I need a diamond blade? Should I cut down the middle first or take a sliver off of one side of the ball to create a flat surface so I can cut the remainder of the ball?
> 
> What steps should I take to get the most out of the ball, and keep my fingers all at the same time?
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> DrAT


----------



## hilltopper46

I finally got one cut in two with a reciprocating saw with a long blade.

As Don said, there is very little material (at least on the swirled resin one that I cut up) and I never pursued it any further.  It's still in a corner of the shop waiting for me to get back to it.


----------



## Seer

Fair warning unless the skin is at least an inch thick it is not worth the cost of man hours or blades because they will be ruined after or while you are cutting, I know I have done it also but what made mine different is the balls I cut were solid acrylic except for the core and the core pretty much made expensive blades into a one piece butter knife.  I still have a lot of material which I am hoarding in a way but I am never going to do it again.  Also some nbowling balls especially the expensive ones use glass particles for traction and they will ruin any blade they touch even a good carbide blade (expensive).  Search for my name and posts I gave my experience on cutting bowling balls and learned my lesson.  But if you stioll want to be careful and wear a good respirator and eye protection.


----------



## Dave Turner

As part of several memorial pens, I used my late mother-in-law's bowling ball for material and it worked very well. I first placed the ball in a small plastic dish to stabilize it while I cut off a thin slice from the "bottom" to make a flat surface. I used my bandsaw with a regular 3/8 inch blade on it, and it cut fine. It does get a little messy with all the small particles produced. (Tip: the bowling ball will dull the blade, so use an older blade for this if you have one).

Now resting the ball on the flat surface, I made several radial cuts about 1/4 the way into the ball. Each piece had a maximum width of about 1 inch. Finally I made a cut perpendicular to the radial cuts, freeing up the individual pieces as seen in the photos. Even though the surface material is curved, I was able to get multiple half blanks over 1/2 inch in diameter that work quite well for slimlines and such.


----------



## ttpenman

I know this goes back a few years but does anyone remember what happened to the person who was selling Bowling Ball blanks.  IIRC they had them made by the ball manufacturer.  I got a few and I really liked them.  Made some real neat pens.  I even found some (I believe) at Lee Valley but they had closed them out and said they would not be able to get any more.

Just curious if anyone remembers this.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin


----------



## Seer

Cores are different when I first started cutting mine the core actually sparked so I stopped right there. The next thing I did was take a small battery powered circular saw and cut a ring around it and then used a pry bar to split it and then did the same to each half. At this point I was able to hit the core with a hammer and most of it would come free and then I found a small blow torch would actually make the core turn soft so it could be removed but in the end too mauch work and very little if any profit in the pieces imho.
I have attached a few pics of what I made and still have for you.


----------



## widows son

Every ball is different, I use a chain saw and reciprocating saw to cut the balls into slices. Some of the cores are cementitious and will dull the saw blades. The older balls have a smaller and softer core and more material to make pens from. I cut the core away with the reciprocating saw using a demo blade, the heat the sloces to about 250 degrees and clamp it between 2 2X4's using C-clamps when the get softer.  This takes the curve out.

You can find a metal stand in the bottom of bowling bags to cradle the balls while you are cutting them.


----------



## ed4copies

ttpenman said:


> I know this goes back a few years but does anyone remember what happened to the person who was selling Bowling Ball blanks.  IIRC they had them made by the ball manufacturer.  I got a few and I really liked them.  Made some real neat pens.  I even found some (I believe) at Lee Valley but they had closed them out and said they would not be able to get any more.
> 
> Just curious if anyone remembers this.
> 
> Jeff in northern Wisconsin




Yes, and I conducted a pretty thorough search for her when we started Exotics--I really wanted to have her as one of our suppliers.  Half a dozen emails, a letter (returned to me)--no answer.  If you find her, tell her I would still like to sell those blanks!!!!

(I made lots and bought lots from her--finally learned how to make it shine--then lost the supplier---oh, POOP!!!)


----------



## arioux

If my memory is right, her name was Sheila and the store Pens of color.  They closed and we never saw those blank again.


----------



## ed4copies

Sheila Crosby, I think Alfred.

If I recall correctly, Kansas City area.   She held a patent on the product, so it is public record.


----------



## nava1uni

Bruce 119 used to make blanks made from cut-up bowling balls and resin.  They were very cool blanks that turned well and were quite unusual.  He stopped making them due to too much work.


----------



## bruce119

nava1uni said:


> Bruce 119 used to make blanks made from cut-up bowling balls and resin. They were very cool blanks that turned well and were quite unusual. He stopped making them due to too much work.


 
Thank you Cindy 

You are correct they are a BIG PITA :mad-tongue:
I have a fair amount of personal experience as Don noted they can be very dangerous. But it can be done as others have said they are all different. Look inside the finger holes you can get an idea how thick the skin is. I found the cores to be of various materials usually very hard like stone and metal mixed. I started with a chain saw in the beginning BUT I found the best method is a chop saw (W/abrasive blade) with a jig to FIRMLY secure the ball so it wont move. Then you can square the ball and take it to the ban saw. But then again your going to chew up some blades $$.

It can be done the results are good. I still have about 20+ balls in the back yard for me it's just not worth it.


----------



## sumterdad

I just found one at a yard sell and I am looking forward to trying it.  I guess I just like trying different ways to make pens


----------



## Trillium

I stumbled across this thread and was intrigued enough to visit my local bowling alley and spoke with the "Pro shop" guy. What I ended up with is the knowledge that the "rind" of current bowling balls is 5/8" thick...not a great margin. BUT.... there is another avenue. The repairs on bowling balls are effected by using a 2 part resin with mixable pigments. Iam tracking down the availability now. Looks like 2 gallons of resin and a 13 color ( with metallics) will cost just over $250 shipped. Sounds a bit expensive, but if this stuff is tough enough to bust pins over and over..and survive impact with the lanes and ball returns, it should be well tough enough for a pen or three!  I plan to take a mold to the alley and pay for a "bowling ball repair" as a test. Will keep you guys posted!


----------

