# Aluminum Segmenting



## StatProf (May 19, 2009)

When using aluminum in your segmenting (like VisExp), you y'all use just an aluminum can, siding from the local Home Improvement Center or something else?

Thanks,
StatProf


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## badger (May 19, 2009)

the one I've done I used a empty coke can I had in my shop.


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## VisExp (May 19, 2009)

Kyle, I've used both.  However depending on the design and how the aluminum "exits" the blank there is a possibility that you can see the red label of the coke can.  After making a pen where that happened I just started using plain aluminum.  Obviously it is more expensive but after spending a couple of hours making a blank it sucks to turn it into a pen and see bits of red.  I get my aluminum and brass from http://www.whimsie.com/index.html.

I use the 30 gauge for single layers and 36 gauge if I am sandwiching a piece of veneer between two layers of aluminum.


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## gketell (May 19, 2009)

I've used both.  I currently have sheets of roofing flashing in Aluminum and Copper from the local borg store.  Much easier than the coke can, IMHO, and you don't have to worry about the colors showing or the sealant causing the glue to not stick.

GK


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## tim self (May 19, 2009)

The ones I've done is just alum. can.  Sanding all the paint eliminates the color showing.  Have some .032 setting up now.  Just make sure you sand well for the glue to stick.


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## Freethinker (May 19, 2009)

VisExp said:


> I've used both.  However depending on the design and how the aluminum "exits" the blank there is a possibility that you can see the red label of the coke can.  After making a pen where that happened I just started using plain aluminum.  Obviously it is more expensive but after spending a couple of hours making a blank it sucks to turn it into a pen and see bits of red.



You said it.

Plus, it is a pain in the &*# sanding/scraping the wax coating off the beer/soda can.


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## aldwardo (May 22, 2009)

Do you use CA to adhere the aluminum?   I tried one the other night on sheet aluminum I picked up locally and after it cured I opened up the clamp and it fell apart.  Maybe I just need to scuff it better first, I used 400 grit.


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## gketell (May 22, 2009)

Yes, I use CA most of the time.  I use 80 grit and my belt sander to scuff the aluminum.  You want pretty deep grooves for the glue to get into.  

and don't clamp it too tight.  you need to leave some glue in there since it can't absorb into the aluminum like it does into the wood.

GK


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## leehljp (May 22, 2009)

I am in Japan and many home centers have aluminum sheets in different sizes and thicknesses. This is what I use. When I return to the States in a couple of years for retirement, I will order similar material. The reason is that I personally like to choose the thickness that I use for a particular design. Different thicknesses for different designs work well.

When I get into segments, I find that the time to perfectly align the different parts requires 15 to 30 minute epoxy and clamps. CA works well and holds well but alignment time is cut short quickly.


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## JohnU (May 22, 2009)

You might also want to check with your local newspaper printer.  Mine was selling aluminum sheets 18" X 36" for .50 cents.  That is until they sold out and not its printed 50 miles away from me.


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## aldwardo (May 22, 2009)

Thank you for the info!    I have another question, and I am sorry if I am hijacking the thread.   How thick of a segment could I do on my wood lathe with a Woodchuck?

I am trying to do something like this pen, but wasn't sure if I could do something as thick as that center band.


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## Wolfcoast (May 23, 2009)

I always see people worry about the red ink from the coke can showing on an angled segment.

I haven't tried this yet, but... why not use a silver color can?? like diet 7up, etc.  No red ink= no worries about it showing.  AFAIK the cans are made exactly the same way, just different labeling.


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## VisExp (May 23, 2009)

Wolfcoast said:


> I always see people worry about the red ink from the coke can showing on an angled segment.
> 
> I haven't tried this yet, but... why not use a silver color can?? like diet 7up, etc. No red ink= no worries about it showing. AFAIK the cans are made exactly the same way, just different labeling.


 
Well there you go again, thinking outside of the box :biggrin: 

I just thought I should add, as well as the label issue one of the main reasons I don't use soda cans is because of the thickness of the aluminum. For most of the designs I make, where I am cutting through a previous inlay a number of times, it is very important to match the thickness of the blade kerf to the thickness of the inlay material. If you don't then basically you are putting back into the blank a different thickness to what you have just taken out so the blank will grow or shrink by that difference. 

Not an issue if you are only cutting through a previous inlay once but if you are cutting through a previous inlay a number of times then the joints will start to stagger. Soda can is about 0.007" thick. The thinnest blade I have found is 0.011" thick. That difference of 0.004" starts to add up and can be seen.

The pen pictured sits on my desk and is the last time I used soda can for an inlay


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## Wolfcoast (May 23, 2009)

You have a lot more patience than I do.  That looks like it took a while to make.  Looks Great!!


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## Manny (Dec 22, 2009)

VisExp said:


> Well there you go again, thinking outside of the box :biggrin:
> 
> I just thought I should add, as well as the label issue one of the main reasons I don't use soda cans is because of the thickness of the aluminum. For most of the designs I make, where I am cutting through a previous inlay a number of times, it is very important to match the thickness of the blade kerf to the thickness of the inlay material. If you don't then basically you are putting back into the blank a different thickness to what you have just taken out so the blank will grow or shrink by that difference.
> 
> ...


 
Vis,
Please send that disgusting example of poor craftmanship to me. I will deal with it. 

Manny


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## Mr Vic (Dec 23, 2009)

Al the pens I made using coke cans turned out too fat. I switched to Diet Pepsi and my Slimlines are slim again.  :biggrin:   

Okay, I actually use sheet stock from Hobby Lobby...


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## bobleibo (Dec 23, 2009)

I started buying my aluminum from the local hobby store. It comes in sheets that are about 4"x8" for less than $2, in silver and brass, in varying thicknesses starting at .008 inches. One sheet will last for quite some time. They are clean and easy to work with.


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## SamThePenMan (Dec 23, 2009)

I would imagine if you use soda cans and are worried about the ink, why not just sand the paint off or use a wire wheel brush to take off the paint? Obviously wearing a dust mask while doing it. One good thing I could think of in using a soda/pop can is that in a way your recycling


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## RHossack (Dec 26, 2009)

Maybe I missed it and someone mentioned it but I use some thin aluminum duct pipe I get from Lowes.


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