# Anything I need to know about cutting EBONY?



## mbellek (Oct 18, 2007)

I got a big box of wood for my b-day yesterday, and one of the pieces in there was a big block of ebony about (1.5"sqX18") which I will cut down into smaller pieces....

I was wondering, I know some woods have special concerns or techniques you need employ when cutting or drilling them... Is ebony one of these? Is there anything I should know before I cut it down?

Thanks!


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## Rifleman1776 (Oct 18, 2007)

Probably the best thing you should do with that ebony is to put on a shelf and forget you have it for about three years. True ebony coming into the country these days was most likely cut the day before it was shipped. Try to cut and use and you will get heartbreaking cracks in short order. Make sure the ends are sealed and give a lot of time to dry naturally.


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## mbellek (Oct 18, 2007)

And there is no way to tell if my ebony is dry already? 

I have used it before, with no problems, but it was pre-cut.

I thought the point of sealing ebony in wax is to KEEP it from drying out?? I don't understand?


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## louisbry (Oct 18, 2007)

You can use a moisture meter to determine dryness.  Wax does keep wood from drying as fast.  The idea is for the wood to dry very slowly over time so that it won't crack in the process.


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## Rifleman1776 (Oct 18, 2007)

> _Originally posted by mbellek_
> <br />And there is no way to tell if my ebony is dry already?
> 
> I have used it before, with no problems, but it was pre-cut.
> ...



Melanie, I'm not enough of an expert to fully discuss drying. But, I'll give you my take on the 100% sealing bit. It is easier to dip a hunk of wood in wax prior to shipping than to just paint the ends. And, wood coming from South Africa to the U.S. goes through many hot/cool, humid/dry climatic changes. It is probably best to protect with 100% sealing during the shipping. But, to get ready for use, I suggest removing all the wax then just sealing the end grain. A good way to remove the wax is to take outside and just flame the wax off with a propane torch. The wax will go in an instant and won't hurt the wood. Then reseal the ends with Anchorseal, put on shelf and forget for several years.


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## BigguyZ (Oct 18, 2007)

I've use ebony plenty, never had any issues with cracking.  Am I lucky, or is the stuff I'm getting fromt he loval stores dried already??


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## potter (Oct 18, 2007)

ebony is a very sensitiv wood. When you drill it, you must do it slowly and careful. When ebony gets warm and hot, it crakcs, also by finishing on the lathe you must be careful. Hope you understand my English
Harry


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## edstreet (Oct 18, 2007)

is it ebony or is it african blackwood?  There is a HUGE difference.  Also the names have changed and what was once called ebony is now called african blackwood.  If it is true ebony then it's super delicate and many people will tell you if you look at it wrong it will crack.  You can stabilize both of them with good results to.

I have a meter for the dryness stuff, works better than the weight method.

Ed


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## potter (Oct 18, 2007)

by turning and grinding,you can it easy discern (?), grenadill is much more oily than ebony


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## mbellek (Oct 18, 2007)

This wood is very dry... and the website that I bought it from does discern between ebony and african blackwood. It's listed as "diospyros spp"

This wood is only waxed on the very ends, and I believe I read elsewhere on the site that he dries his own wood... I'll contact him before I mess with it to make sure though.


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## toolcrazy (Oct 18, 2007)

I did a pen out of ebony about a year ago and it's still just fine. I work with and drill ebony the same as most blanks. But you do need to make sure it's dry.


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