# Micro-Mesh...wet or dry?



## bgray (Nov 6, 2006)

I'm been playing around with using Micro-mesh wet and dry.

I've concluded that I like to use the lower grits (1500-2400 or so) wet, and the rest dry.

Seems that the lower grits benefit from the dust not clogging the sheet, and it doesn't seem to matter with the higher grits, since they basically polish, anyway.

Preferences here???


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## gerryr (Nov 6, 2006)

I never use MM dry.  Friction can melt it.  DAMHIKT[B)]


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## Skye (Nov 6, 2006)

I've found that the higher the grit, the more it needs water. Increased grit means more surface area will make contact with the blank. More contact, more heat.

Go wet the whole way. You'll be happy.

Just make sure to use a different set for wet and another for dry. Using damp MM on wood, then CAing over it could be bad.


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## Snazzypens (Nov 6, 2006)

so are you sanding straight onto the wood wet?? I use wet on acrylic but did not know about on wood?
Toni


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## ctEaglesc (Nov 6, 2006)

Dry on everything, it only melts if it gets hot.When sanding it shouldn't get hot.
Using it wet makes slurry and you are ASKING for dust to get buried in the pores.
Acrylics are another matter of which I can expound upon equally well with the lack of any knowledge at all.
I don't like to purposely put water on a wood blank, does sneezing on a blank count?
BTW if you have any "dust" on the MM you are removing material and that is still sanding.
"your mileage may vary."


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## bgray (Nov 6, 2006)

> _Originally posted by ctEaglesc_
> <br />Dry on everything, it only melts if it gets hot.When sanding it shouldn't get hot.
> Using it wet makes slurry and you are ASKING for dust to get buried in the pores.
> Acrylics are another matter of which I can expound upon equally well with the lack of any knowledge at all.
> ...



Sorry, I wasn't clear.  I'm not sanding wood with water.  Either mineral spirits with a touch of linseed oil, or some very thin lemon oil.

You're statement also brings up another topic...how to clean MicroMesh.  I've been using an old toothbrush in the sink.  I think that wet or dry sanding will lead to the dust accumulating either way, but perhaps wet helps to keep it from caking and makes it easier to clean.  my 2 cents.


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## loglugger (Nov 7, 2006)

Dry on wood, keep it moving and it wonâ€™t get hot. I wipe mm on my levies every time that I use them and it keeps then clean. Some have said they put them in their pants pockets and put them into the washing machine to clean mm, take mm out of pockets before putting paints into the dryer.
Bob


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## ctEaglesc (Nov 7, 2006)

Ditto on the washing machine.
If I have a lot ,I put them in a fine mesh nlon bag and tir the top.Throw them in the wash and let them air dry.
Also,. here's a tip for those of you who have problems keeping them in  order.
Number from 1-9 on the back with a penmanent marker.


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## elody21 (Nov 7, 2006)

Don't know about wood but on ANY type of plastics or corian WET,WET,WET! Alice


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## Skye (Nov 7, 2006)

^[:I]

I've found that on most any material, not matter how lightly I go, if there's a sharp bead or edge, I'll always leave a grey streak in the higher levels of MM if I'm running dry. Since I switched to wet, I've been very happy. It's just a matter of keeping everything clean.


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