# Chinese Laser Engraver



## mecompco

So I find that for around $100 one can get a 1 watt laser engraver from China. The demo videos on YouTube look pretty good, but they are using flat stock. Has anyone tried one of these on a pen? Thanks!

Regards,
Michael


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## chartle

mecompco said:


> So I find that for around $100 one can get a 1 watt laser engraver from China. The demo videos on YouTube look pretty good, but they are using flat stock. Has anyone tried one of these on a pen? Thanks!
> 
> Regards,
> Michael



Not sure where I saw it but you can engrave the round surface of  a pen as long as you don't go too close to the edge.


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## mecompco

chartle said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I find that for around $100 one can get a 1 watt laser engraver from China. The demo videos on YouTube look pretty good, but they are using flat stock. Has anyone tried one of these on a pen? Thanks!
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where I saw it but you can engrave the round surface of  a pen as long as you don't go too close to the edge.
Click to expand...


That is precisely what I was wondering. You have to focus the laser on the work piece, so I would think that engraving a name, for instance, on a pen would lose resolution as the focus point moved due to the rounded surface.


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## chartle

I had thought of a hack where you put the pen on a mandrel and then come up with a way to press it against the platform. As the platform moves back and forth it rotates the pen so you can go all the way around. 

Might need to mirror the image since up is down.


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## low_48

That subject comes up on here every so often. Not heard of any results, but many ask about it. The ones at that price use a laser diode, not a laser tube. Are you sure you can focus it? The one video I saw, it burns one pixel at a time. If you buy it, please post the results so there is a reference on the site. The smallest wattage of a typical laser engraver is 25 watts. Most folks use a 60 watt or higher if they are cutting the inlay kits. The one you saw is really on the verge of being a toy. Tiny stepper motors, tiny work surface, even more tiny laser source. Also if you get it, wear laser protective eye care. With no enclosure around it, a reflected laser source can hurt your eyes.


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## Joey-Nieves

could you post a link for youtube demo?


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## mecompco

The model is NEJE DK-8-KZ, from GearBest: Online Shopping - Best Gear at Best Prices. In the demos, they are engraving wood and making smoke. They show having to focus the laser and the wearing of protective eye wear.

Here is one video, there are a few others.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XSc9q_qwp8


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## Joey-Nieves

For the price a 1 watt laser is worth the risk, it supports windows 10 and it's portable.  1 Watt or 1000mw should be enough to overcome the small curve of the pen, but as in all engravers, the top side will be deeper than the edges.  I fill the engraving with acrylic paint from my daughters art kit, looks great.

This 5.5 W seems interesting but it does not support windows 10 and the board is bought separately, although it may be able to engrave the ruler lines on a piece of plywood. 5500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-391.48 | GearBest.com

As my father would tell me "as soon as the frog grows hair" I can have it!

Joey


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## DigBaddy72

I actually purchased one of these and have had GREAT success engraving on slimlines.  I'll get some pictures taken and posted of my results.  Still learning though.  I've found that freshly finished pens do NOT engrave well.  The char from the engraving smudges and the finish gets tacky. 

As for focusing the laser, I have had mixed results.  I pretty much eye ball the precision.  Text seems to engrave better than images.  A wider pen, like a Sierra, has more surface to work with.  I was surprised at how close I could get to the edges before the detail was lost.


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## mecompco

DigBaddy72 said:


> I actually purchased one of these and have had GREAT success engraving on slimlines.  I'll get some pictures taken and posted of my results.  Still learning though.  I've found that freshly finished pens do NOT engrave well.  The char from the engraving smudges and the finish gets tacky.
> 
> As for focusing the laser, I have had mixed results.  I pretty much eye ball the precision.  Text seems to engrave better than images.  A wider pen, like a Sierra, has more surface to work with.  I was surprised at how close I could get to the edges before the detail was lost.



Keith, thanks, that is exactly the sort of info I was looking for! Please, do, post some pix when you have the chance. Are you engraving in CA covered wood, Acrylic, both? Text is pretty much what I'm interested in.

Regards,
Michael

PS: Could one engrave on bare wood, then apply the finish?


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## vwa3guy

Michael, if you are on facebook, join the pen turners group.  the neje has been discussed and reviewed to death.  I bought one on ebay (300mw) and it is fantastic.  you won't be cutting any plywood or doing any acrylic with any of these but it will engrave and it does it well.


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## mecompco

vwa3guy said:


> Michael, if you are on facebook, join the pen turners group.  the neje has been discussed and reviewed to death.  I bought one on ebay (300mw) and it is fantastic.  you won't be cutting any plywood or doing any acrylic with any of these but it will engrave and it does it well.



Thank you, I will see if I can find the group. I've thus far only used FB to show off my pens and drive traffic to my web site.

Regards,
Michael


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## raar25

The web site states it doesn't engrave acrylic, is that  true?  I am certainly interested but I do a lot of acrylic pens so it loses a lot of value if I cant do 1/2 of my items.


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## Joey-Nieves

vwa3guy said:


> Michael, if you are on facebook, join the pen turners group.  the neje has been discussed and reviewed to death.  I bought one on ebay (300mw) and it is fantastic.  you won't be cutting any plywood or doing any acrylic with any of these but it will engrave and it does it well.



Can you post a link, please


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## Joey-Nieves

There is a special spray that is used for engraving on metals, it eliminates the glare.


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## low_48

Joey-Nieves said:


> There is a special spray that is used for engraving on metals, it eliminates the glare.



That special spray is not there to reduce the glare. I think it is something a bit like a ceramic glaze. The metal never gets engraved, you just have a mark left on the surface. They have black for metal and white for stainless steel. They have multiple colors for ceramic and glass. They talk about 25-30 watt machines having trouble working with Cermark, so will probably not work at all with these 1 watt or less toys.


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## smik

I'm in the process of adding a laser to my cnc router setup.  Im using the 445nm blue diode rated at 1.8W. When I figure it all out and put together I can add my results.


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## Joey-Nieves

Although I haven't seen him do it, my engraver says he uses it on metal and that examples he's shown me the metal is engraved. He's offered to engrave my clips.   I mite give it a try next week


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## mike4066

I have the cheap 300mw version. You can actually see it in the background.

This is the first pen I tried 10 minutes after I got it setup.  I'm thinking of upgrading it to a 2.5w, or just getting a newer/larger machine.


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## mecompco

Having seen examples of what Ryan's machine will do, I've pulled the trigger on the 1mW model--under $100 including "expedited" shipping. Will report back when it arrives. Even if it will only do wood, that opens up a ton possibilites.


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## jdmacdo

*Pulled the trigger*

We were starting to look at laser engravers ($8K for an Epilog?!!?!?) just a week ago when this thread started.  Based on the comments up to this point, we also pulled the trigger on the 1W version.  When it does show up, I will show some results on pens that we engrave to help add to the knowledge.


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## low_48

jdmacdo said:


> We were starting to look at laser engravers ($8K for an Epilog?!!?!?) just a week ago when this thread started.  Based on the comments up to this point, we also pulled the trigger on the 1W version.  When it does show up, I will show some results on pens that we engrave to help add to the knowledge.



You sure looked at both ends of the spectrum! 40 watts versus 1, bench top versus being able to hold in one hand, focussing distance lens vs looking at a dot, etc.....


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## jdmacdo

low_48 said:


> jdmacdo said:
> 
> 
> 
> We were starting to look at laser engravers ($8K for an Epilog?!!?!?) just a week ago when this thread started.  Based on the comments up to this point, we also pulled the trigger on the 1W version.  When it does show up, I will show some results on pens that we engrave to help add to the knowledge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sure looked at both ends of the spectrum! 40 watts versus 1, bench top versus being able to hold in one hand, focussing distance lens vs looking at a dot, etc.....
Click to expand...


No kidding...  After falling off my chair when I found the price of the Epilog  , I was happy to see the other end of the spectrum.

  We were looking at the Epilog for some other non-pen projects, but at that cost, we still couldn't justify the cost of it.  For now, we are going to stick to the pens and look to expand later...


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## DigBaddy72

mecompco said:


> DigBaddy72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I actually purchased one of these and have had GREAT success engraving on slimlines.  I'll get some pictures taken and posted of my results.  Still learning though.  I've found that freshly finished pens do NOT engrave well.  The char from the engraving smudges and the finish gets tacky.
> 
> As for focusing the laser, I have had mixed results.  I pretty much eye ball the precision.  Text seems to engrave better than images.  A wider pen, like a Sierra, has more surface to work with.  I was surprised at how close I could get to the edges before the detail was lost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keith, thanks, that is exactly the sort of info I was looking for! Please, do, post some pix when you have the chance. Are you engraving in CA covered wood, Acrylic, both? Text is pretty much what I'm interested in.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> PS: Could one engrave on bare wood, then apply the finish?
Click to expand...


I did my initial testing on unfinished unturned blanks, just to see the level of details I could get and to get a feel for the software.

My first official engraving was on a friction polish finished pen (gearshift), but it didn't look like the lazer liked the finish as the engraving wasn't as solid as I had hoped for.  I believe it is because of the reflective properties of the finish.  you can't engrave shiny materials as the laser is either bounced away or refracted further, thus impacting the intensity of the focal point.


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## mecompco

DigBaddy72 said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DigBaddy72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I actually purchased one of these and have had GREAT success engraving on slimlines.  I'll get some pictures taken and posted of my results.  Still learning though.  I've found that freshly finished pens do NOT engrave well.  The char from the engraving smudges and the finish gets tacky.
> 
> As for focusing the laser, I have had mixed results.  I pretty much eye ball the precision.  Text seems to engrave better than images.  A wider pen, like a Sierra, has more surface to work with.  I was surprised at how close I could get to the edges before the detail was lost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keith, thanks, that is exactly the sort of info I was looking for! Please, do, post some pix when you have the chance. Are you engraving in CA covered wood, Acrylic, both? Text is pretty much what I'm interested in.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> PS: Could one engrave on bare wood, then apply the finish?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I did my initial testing on unfinished unturned blanks, just to see the level of details I could get and to get a feel for the software.
> 
> My first official engraving was on a friction polish finished pen (gearshift), but it didn't look like the lazer liked the finish as the engraving wasn't as solid as I had hoped for.  I believe it is because of the reflective properties of the finish.  you can't engrave shiny materials as the laser is either bounced away or refracted further, thus impacting the intensity of the focal point.
Click to expand...


That's pretty much what I am expecting. I had sort of planned to do the engraving prior to finishing and see how that works. I also envision personalizing wood pen boxes, etc. 

Forked over the $8.00 for expedited shipping, so hope to have it in 10-12 days (I've dealt with Gearbest.com before--expedited 10-12 days, free shipping 25-30 days).


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## low_48

DigBaddy72 said:


> you can't engrave shiny materials as the laser is either bounced away or refracted further, thus impacting the intensity of the focal point.



Must be an issue with the incredibly low power, or a poor focus. No issues with finish on a 25 watt machine. I can get a little haze around the engraving, but a little rubbing alcohol takes it right off.


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## pianomanpj

mecompco said:


> DigBaddy72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DigBaddy72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I actually purchased one of these and have had GREAT success engraving on slimlines.  I'll get some pictures taken and posted of my results.  Still learning though.  I've found that freshly finished pens do NOT engrave well.  The char from the engraving smudges and the finish gets tacky.
> 
> As for focusing the laser, I have had mixed results.  I pretty much eye ball the precision.  Text seems to engrave better than images.  A wider pen, like a Sierra, has more surface to work with.  I was surprised at how close I could get to the edges before the detail was lost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keith, thanks, that is exactly the sort of info I was looking for! Please, do, post some pix when you have the chance. Are you engraving in CA covered wood, Acrylic, both? Text is pretty much what I'm interested in.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> PS: Could one engrave on bare wood, then apply the finish?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I did my initial testing on unfinished unturned blanks, just to see the level of details I could get and to get a feel for the software.
> 
> My first official engraving was on a friction polish finished pen (gearshift), but it didn't look like the lazer liked the finish as the engraving wasn't as solid as I had hoped for.  I believe it is because of the reflective properties of the finish.  you can't engrave shiny materials as the laser is either bounced away or refracted further, thus impacting the intensity of the focal point.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> That's pretty much what I am expecting. I had sort of planned to do the engraving prior to finishing and see how that works. I also envision personalizing wood pen boxes, etc.
> 
> Forked over the $8.00 for expedited shipping, so hope to have it in 10-12 days (I've dealt with Gearbest.com before--expedited 10-12 days, free shipping 25-30 days).
Click to expand...


Mike, when you get this bad boy up and running, I would LOVE to take a drive to Fairfield to see this in action! :biggrin:


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## DigBaddy72

Here are some photos of some of the engraving I did on a Euro style twist pen.  The pen is over a year old and was originally finished with friction polish.  Sorry for the fuzzy pictures, I just took them at my desk at work.  From L to R:  Dr Who, Superheroes, Military, more Military, over all view.

I have other pens at home that I practiced on, plus an un-turned blank with various fonts used.

As you can see, the smaller the image, the less detail you can get...but I believe there is some settings in the software program that can change that, but there really isn't a manual.

If these photos should go somewhere else, let me know.  Wasn't sure where to put them.


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## mecompco

DigBaddy72 said:


> Here are some photos of some of the engraving I did on a Euro style twist pen.  The pen is over a year old and was originally finished with friction polish.  Sorry for the fuzzy pictures, I just took them at my desk at work.  From L to R:  Dr Who, Superheroes, Military, more Military, over all view.
> 
> I have other pens at home that I practiced on, plus an un-turned blank with various fonts used.
> 
> As you can see, the smaller the image, the less detail you can get...but I believe there is some settings in the software program that can change that, but there really isn't a manual.
> 
> If these photos should go somewhere else, let me know.  Wasn't sure where to put them.



Keith, for the modest expenditure, I think those look great. Thanks for sharing!

Regards,
Michael


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## low_48

Looks more successful with lettering than images in that scale.


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## elkhorn

Thanks for sharing, Keith.  Did you do the engraving before or after you finished the pens? Also, what did you use for the infill on the engraving?


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## DigBaddy72

Right now, no infill used.  I do have some powders that I will play with this weekend.  As for images, yeah, the smaller they are, the tougher they are to get to look good.

This pen was built last year and the finish was over a year old so it wasn't fresh or shiny.  Good results.  I tried engraving on a pen that I made on Friday and it didnt look so good, almost as if the friction polish melted a little.  

More to come this weekend!


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## DigBaddy72

I answered a few questions over on woodbarter about this engraver and thought I would share this little bit of info on the software.

The one I bought comes with a 1GB micro SD card that has the drivers on  it.  I ran the driver install program and then just ran the executeable.   I did notice that the micro USB cord that goes from the engraver to my  laptop is a bit funky. Meaning that if you wiggle it, the engraver  disconnects from the machine, but the software does not give any  indication of this.  I end up having to shut down the software, unplug  both cords from the engraver, then plug in the power, then the USB to  the laptop and then start the software again. Speaking of the software,  there NO directions on what the settings do.  There is a burn time  setting, and a run time setting(?).  Other than that, the interface is  somewhat self explanatory.  I found it fairly easy to pick up what  buttons do what.  My biggest suggestion to someone using this is to PLAY  with it.  Don't be afraid to ask yourself "I wonder what happens if I  do...".  You can engrave on pen blanks to your heart's content.  It  doesn't burn that deep.  You can easily turn the engraving off when you  put the blank on your lathe.the  one I bought comes with a 1GB micro SD card that has the drivers on  it.  I ran the driver install program and then just ran the  executeable.  I did notice that the micro USB cord that goes from the  engraver to my laptop is a bit funky. Meaning that if you wiggle it, the  engraver disconnects from the machine, but the software does not give  any indication of this.  I end up having to shut down the software,  unplug both cords from the engraver, then plug in the power, then the  USB to the laptop and then start the software again. Speaking of the  software, there NO directions on what the settings do.  There is a burn  time setting, and a run time setting(?).  Other than that, the interface  is somewhat self explanatory.  I found it fairly easy to pick up what  buttons do what.  My biggest suggestion to someone using this is to PLAY  with it.  Don't be afraid to ask yourself "I wonder what happens if I  do...".  You can engrave on pen blanks to your heart's content.  It  doesn't burn that deep.  You can easily turn the engraving off when you  put the blank on your lathe.

Once I am done with my current commission I plan on shooting a full how to video of this thing.


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## low_48

DigBaddy72 said:


> I answered a few questions over on woodbarter about this engraver and thought I would share this little bit of info on the software.
> 
> The one I bought comes with a 1GB micro SD card that has the drivers on  it.  I ran the driver install program and then just ran the executeable.   I did notice that the micro USB cord that goes from the engraver to my  laptop is a bit funky. Meaning that if you wiggle it, the engraver  disconnects from the machine, but the software does not give any  indication of this.  I end up having to shut down the software, unplug  both cords from the engraver, then plug in the power, then the USB to  the laptop and then start the software again. Speaking of the software,  there NO directions on what the settings do.  There is a burn time  setting, and a run time setting(?).  Other than that, the interface is  somewhat self explanatory.  I found it fairly easy to pick up what  buttons do what.  My biggest suggestion to someone using this is to PLAY  with it.  Don't be afraid to ask yourself "I wonder what happens if I  do...".  You can engrave on pen blanks to your heart's content.  It  doesn't burn that deep.  You can easily turn the engraving off when you  put the blank on your lathe.the  one I bought comes with a 1GB micro SD card that has the drivers on  it.  I ran the driver install program and then just ran the  executeable.  I did notice that the micro USB cord that goes from the  engraver to my laptop is a bit funky. Meaning that if you wiggle it, the  engraver disconnects from the machine, but the software does not give  any indication of this.  I end up having to shut down the software,  unplug both cords from the engraver, then plug in the power, then the  USB to the laptop and then start the software again. Speaking of the  software, there NO directions on what the settings do.  There is a burn  time setting, and a run time setting(?).  Other than that, the interface  is somewhat self explanatory.  I found it fairly easy to pick up what  buttons do what.  My biggest suggestion to someone using this is to PLAY  with it.  Don't be afraid to ask yourself "I wonder what happens if I  do...".  You can engrave on pen blanks to your heart's content.  It  doesn't burn that deep.  You can easily turn the engraving off when you  put the blank on your lathe.
> 
> Once I am done with my current commission I plan on shooting a full how to video of this thing.



Does using a cheap Chinese laser cause your brain to skip a beat......... Just kidding, couldn't help myself!


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## Mintman

Any thoughts on the 2.5 watt machine listed.  Seams like the extra power might help significantly and make it more versatile. And still under $200


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## pianomanpj

Mintman said:


> Any thoughts on the 2.5 watt machine listed.  Seams like the extra power might help significantly and make it more versatile. And still under $200



Are you referring to this model?

2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com


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## Mintman

pianomanpj said:


> Are you referring to this model?  2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com





Yes.


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## Bob in SF

I just (impulse) bought the 1000mW model for $87.99 (free shipping) here:
NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-97.41 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
Planning to burn onto slimlines pre-finish.
Also interested in burning through water color-painted wood based on some success with this technique in past efforts at traditional pyrography (burnt water colors have nice color shifts).
I'll post pix when I get it going.


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## mecompco

Bob in SF said:


> I just (impulse) bought the 1000mW model for $87.99 (free shipping) here:
> NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-97.41 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
> Planning to burn onto slimlines pre-finish.
> Also interested in burning through water color-painted wood based on some success with this technique in past efforts at traditional pyrography (burnt water colors have nice color shifts).
> I'll post pix when I get it going.



Yup, that is what mine was--they do go off sale, but come back on if you wait a bit. Being a bit impatient to get it, I did pony up the 8 bucks for expedited shipping. I've had good luck with purchases from gearbest.com in the past.

I did look at the bigger 2.5w model, but that was a bit more than I wanted to spend, and you have to fab a plate for it. Besides, the list of materials it works on seem to be the same as the smaller ones.


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## Bob in SF

Michael - I should have gone for expedited shipping - I might be a little older when it arrives.

Here's what I meant about burning through water color - bass wood sanded to 1,000 grit; airbrushed/hand brushed watercolor, then pyrography with Razertip pen/hand ground points - about 3x4" (little commission for an entomologist):





I'm eager to combine laser and micro-pyrography burning - hence the impulse buy of the little laser unit.

Warm regards - Bob


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## Joey-Nieves

Mintman said:


> pianomanpj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you referring to this model?  2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
Click to expand...

It says that it doesn't support windows 10


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## pianomanpj

Joey-Nieves said:


> Mintman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pianomanpj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you referring to this model?  2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It says that it doesn't support windows 10
Click to expand...


It's only fair - Windows 10 doesn't support much of anything. :tongue:


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## low_48

Bob in SF said:


> Michael - I should have gone for expedited shipping - I might be a little older when it arrives.
> 
> Here's what I meant about burning through water color - bass wood sanded to 1,000 grit; airbrushed/hand brushed watercolor, then pyrography with Razertip pen/hand ground points - about 3x4" (little commission for an entomologist):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm eager to combine laser and micro-pyrography burning - hence the impulse buy of the little laser unit.
> 
> Warm regards - Bob



Based on the pics posted by DigBaddy, you sure won't get that fine of line.


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## DigBaddy72

Here are some more samples of laser engraving results.  I went through a list of fonts in MS Paint to see if they engraved differently.  You'll notice a "36 B" next to most of the font samples.  That was just a reminder to myself that I made the font 36 pt and used Bold.  I also have a few more engraving samples on an actual pen.  This one was a slimline.  Hopefully someone finds these useful.


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## low_48

Why are some of them missing sections or misaligning sections of the font? Going to be tough removing a bad engraving and doing it over!


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## DigBaddy72

low_48 said:


> Why are some of them missing sections or misaligning sections of the font? Going to be tough removing a bad engraving and doing it over!



That was due to how I had the blank placed on the work surface of the laser.  It would bump into the framing supports of the laser and move the blank.  I had to find the "sweet spot" on the surface to place the blank so the frame wouldn't have an affect on the engraving.

Another reason was because the laser would reach the end of the transom(?).  It would stop moving but keep burning, then move on to the next line of pixels.


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## Bob in SF

Keith - very helpful - thanks!

- Bob


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## low_48

DigBaddy72 said:


> low_48 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why are some of them missing sections or misaligning sections of the font? Going to be tough removing a bad engraving and doing it over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was due to how I had the blank placed on the work surface of the laser.  It would bump into the framing supports of the laser and move the blank.  I had to find the "sweet spot" on the surface to place the blank so the frame wouldn't have an affect on the engraving.
> 
> Another reason was because the laser would reach the end of the transom(?).  It would stop moving but keep burning, then move on to the next line of pixels.
Click to expand...


That makes sense, but what happened to the Corvette? The Ts are distorted, and the R is closed. Is that due to just holding it with rubber bands like lots of the videos?


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## mecompco

Windows 10 still offers "compatibility mode"--I'd be really surprised if their app won't work in Win 7 or XP mode.


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## thewishman

That looks like remarkable results from a $100 machine. Thanks for sharing the photos. 

There is a learning curve with everything, you seem to be getting pretty good results already. I'll bet there aren't a lot of engravers that would be comfortable sharing their first efforts, even with machines costing 200 times more than yours.


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## liljohn1368

I have started turning duck calls and pot turkey calls. I think this may be just what I've been looking for. Looks like it would work wonders on the bottom of a pot call or the top of a paddle call


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## rudya7

Just as an FYI on what might help with these small engravers, I have a full size laser that I sometimes use for pen engraving. I use 3/8 inch dowels cut down to 6" to test the engraving, and a v block to hold the pen so that you can get the exact same placement every time.


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## Nick Rocco

Has anyone tried this laser engraver?  I know it is a bit of an overkill for pen engraving but I like the higher power and larger work space if I ever needed it in the future.  My only concern is that it is Windows 7 compatible but not Windows 10 and I am not sure if the backwards compatibility feature of Windows 10 will cover it.  The seller said that it is NOT windows 10 compatible.

40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay


----------



## DigBaddy72

low_48 said:


> That makes sense, but what happened to the Corvette? The Ts are distorted, and the R is closed. Is that due to just holding it with rubber bands like lots of the videos?




I was messing around with moving the blank on the work surface and nudged it a little bit.

The software also has a "re-engrave" feature that you can run when it is done with it's initial engraving.  I ran it about 4 times on a piece and it went pretty deep, but the deeper it went, the laser lost it's focus so the end result was VERY fuzzy.


----------



## low_48

Nick Rocco said:


> Has anyone tried this laser engraver?  I know it is a bit of an overkill for pen engraving but I like the higher power and larger work space if I ever needed it in the future.  My only concern is that it is Windows 7 compatible but not Windows 10 and I am not sure if the backwards compatibility feature of Windows 10 will cover it.  The seller said that it is NOT windows 10 compatible.
> 
> 40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay



Do a LOT of research before buying that machine. The internet is awash with people that can't get it to fire (just one example) and find they can't get any customer support! One post on Sawmillcreek engraving section discusses deception on the shipping location even. After purchasing because of the USA location, he was given an estimated delivery date that would indicate it was shipping from China. I'm a huge advocate for laser engravers with laser tubes instead of diodes, so you are heading the right direction. BUT PLEASE BUY FROM A LASER ENGRAVER DEALER.  Not someone on Ebay that sells lasers, party lights, and cotton candy machines. There are countless numbers of Chinese resellers, not dealers.


----------



## smik

I am working on adding a ebay bought blue diode laser which I believe is similar to the ones used in the NEJE machines.  The holder it came with and focus lens limits it to around a 1" height from the work surface. At that height it cuts around .005-.007 thick line. I've been trying to post photos but for some reason I keep getting a reset message and can't post. The bad thing with the diode setup is the diodes are very sensitive and can degrade quickly. Currently I have a new one on order since it stopped engraving, I believe its my fault in how I handled the device. 
As far as a CO2 laser, I was looking at that one also,  all the commercial units use a CO2 design, just wont fit my application, I use a rotary axis.


----------



## low_48

smik said:


> I am working on adding a ebay bought blue diode laser which I believe is similar to the ones used in the NEJE machines.  The holder it came with and focus lens limits it to around a 1" height from the work surface. At that height it cuts around .005-.007 thick line. I've been trying to post photos but for some reason I keep getting a reset message and can't post. The bad thing with the diode setup is the diodes are very sensitive and can degrade quickly. Currently I have a new one on order since it stopped engraving, I believe its my fault in how I handled the device.
> As far as a CO2 laser, I was looking at that one also,  all the commercial units use a CO2 design, just wont fit my application, I use a rotary axis.



 "all the commercial units use a CO2 design, just wont fit my application, I use a rotary axis."  A quick Google search.
My used ULS has a rotary. 
Thunder Laser sells a rotary. Rotary attachment - Thunderlaser
Rabbit laser says their machine has one;
Special Features:
Frame can come apart so that this laser machine can be moved through a small doorway.
Materials can extend through the front and rear doors to allow for a larger work product.
Work light to help see products during laser processing.
Easy access for interchanging the rotary attachment
Automation Technologies sells one. http://www.automationtechnologiesin...ser-engraving/co2-laser-machine-rotary-device


----------



## smik

Low - The Thunderlaser is a nice machine. Im working on pen blanks so small items.  My application requires the blank to stay in same machine. I needed the laser c/l to be on same c/l as the rotary cutter. I made a fixture to mount the laser in same collet as the cutting bit is in. Works well, but with me installing and removing may have produced a static charge and degraded the device.  Found another technique for my application for now.  If I ever figure out how to post photos will post some on what I am doing.
Talking about Automation Technologies I bought the smooth stepper from them, good unit.


----------



## fisherhahn

For under 100 I had to buy one....can't wait to try it! Will definitely spruce up the turkey and game calls


----------



## jsolie

Has anyone tried the 1000mW NEJE on stabilized wood?


----------



## mecompco

jsolie said:


> Has anyone tried the 1000mW NEJE on stabilized wood?



Mine should be here around the first of next. Will try out some stabilized in it and report back.


----------



## jsolie

mecompco said:


> jsolie said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried the 1000mW NEJE on stabilized wood?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine should be here around the first of next. Will try out some stabilized in it and report back.
Click to expand...


Thanks!  I couldn't pass up that deal and ordered one earlier today, too.  Hopefully arrives soon-ish.  Not quite sure where I'll set it up yet, but SWMBO will probably not want it set up in the house.


----------



## Joey-Nieves

Has anyone figured out what the 1.75mm White ABS Filament High Accuracy 3D Printer Accessories  -  10M and the 3D Printer Brass Nozzle is for?


----------



## Turned Around

Joey-Nieves said:


> Has anyone figured out what the 1.75mm White ABS Filament High Accuracy 3D Printer Accessories  -  10M and the 3D Printer Brass Nozzle is for?


 
isn't that the nozzle and filament for the 3D printers? the filament is what melts in layers to make the 3D forms, then nozzles just need to be replaced every now and then. sometimes due to changing colors or sizes in the filament. those aren't for the laser engraver.


----------



## mecompco

Turned Around said:


> Joey-Nieves said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone figured out what the 1.75mm White ABS Filament High Accuracy 3D Printer Accessories  -  10M and the 3D Printer Brass Nozzle is for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> isn't that the nozzle and filament for the 3D printers? the filament is what melts in layers to make the 3D forms, then nozzles just need to be replaced every now and then. sometimes due to changing colors or sizes in the filament. those aren't for the laser engraver.
Click to expand...


Yup, that's what it's for. I have a Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen doing a print right now. Nothing to do with lasers.


----------



## smik

*Photo laser cut detail*

Sometimes a cup of coffee and reading help but who reads directions.
Heres a shot showing the detail I was able to get from the laser diode setup.


----------



## Turned Around

smik said:


> Sometimes a cup of coffee and reading help but who reads directions.
> Heres a shot showing the detail I was able to get from the laser diode setup.


 
can you load a larger picture to show the quality and details a bit better?

still on the fence about this thing, even though it is better than the alternative of spending $8K on a name brand laser.


----------



## smik

Ok here's two photos.  The one using to enhance the carved image and the other full laser cut. There is a learning curve from what I can see from selecting the correct graphics with line spacing thickness etc..   Also need to add this is not using the NEJE unit, but I purchased a separate diode and driver. The driver I use is from jtech photonics and the diode I purchased off ebay. Jtech sells pkgs but still pieces parts as compared to the NEJE.





Turned Around said:


> smik said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes a cup of coffee and reading help but who reads directions.
> Heres a shot showing the detail I was able to get from the laser diode setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you load a larger picture to show the quality and details a bit better?
> 
> still on the fence about this thing, even though it is better than the alternative of spending $8K on a name brand laser.
Click to expand...


----------



## Nick Rocco

Smik,
Are you using a 3D printer outfitted with a laser conversion?


----------



## smik

No, I built a cnc router, aprox 3x4 footprint then added a rotary axis.  I use a Bosch Colt router as a spindle and made a mount for the laser to fit into spindle collet.  If I get back to the laser going to change the setup to a permanent mount.



Nick Rocco said:


> Smik,
> Are you using a 3D printer outfitted with a laser conversion?


----------



## smik

Found another photo if it helps.


----------



## Nick Rocco

smik said:


> No, I built a cnc router, aprox 3x4 footprint then added a rotary axis.  I use a Bosch Colt router as a spindle and made a mount for the laser to fit into spindle collet.  If I get back to the laser going to change the setup to a permanent mount.
> 
> 
> 
> Nick Rocco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Smik,
> Are you using a 3D printer outfitted with a laser conversion?
Click to expand...


You have peaked my curiosity on your setup.  Can you maybe post some pics?  I have wanted to build a little cnc rounter but just have never gotten around to it.


----------



## smik

Better yet here is the site I ordered from. https://www.finelineautomation.com/t/cnc-machine-kits. I have the 2x3 model back from 2009-10. Electronics I purchased the drivers from gecko. 
Here's another site to consider, they are in someway connected. Ballscrew Z Axis | CNCRouterParts.  If you have choice go with ballscrews for the accuracy, smoothness and speed. I get great accuracy with mine but  ballscrews are nice. Gecko is a good source to learn how to setup the steppers and electronic controls. There are many new vendors out there look around.


----------



## mecompco

Laser engraver arrived yesterday, ordered the 4th, arrived on the 12th. Just had a few minutes to play with it. Here is a terrible cell phone pic of my first attempt at putting my name on a #2 pencil:


----------



## low_48

What does that say? I wonder if you are ducting away the smoke? On traditional lasers, the lens can get fouled with smoke/resins and change the quality of the burn. No idea what these diodes have at the end and I doubt if the "instructions" will tell you about preventive maintenance.


----------



## Ligget

I have just bought a 1000mW NEJE from Ebay,  being shipped from Shen Zhen in China, cost just shy of £75 so worth a try, will keep you posted.

Here is the link: click here


----------



## mecompco

Ligget said:


> I have just bought a 1000mW NEJE from Ebay,  being shipped from Shen Zhen in China, cost just shy of £75 so worth a try, will keep you posted.
> 
> Here is the link: click here



Yup, that's the one I got, just from gearbest.com instead of eBay.


----------



## mecompco

low_48 said:


> What does that say? I wonder if you are ducting away the smoke? On traditional lasers, the lens can get fouled with smoke/resins and change the quality of the burn. No idea what these diodes have at the end and I doubt if the "instructions" will tell you about preventive maintenance.



It says "Mr. Gifford". It looks much better in person. This was my first test burn. I'm sure with some experimentation and fine-tuning it will do much better. There is a bit of smoke during the burn. I think the paint probably added to the smoke. 

I just did a quickie 12 point font in Photoshop, sent it to the laser and burned it.

Oh, and yes, the instructions don't really say much of anything useful. :biggrin:


----------



## vtgaryw

I'm intrigued by the 2500 mw laser.  I looked at the description of what looks like the same machine on eBay, and it had a statement along the lines of "Dashboard supports 3-axis"  I'd love to be able to add a 3rd axis, but it's not clear if that means that if the HW supports adding a Z axis or just their software?

Anyone have any idea?

Gary


----------



## Erik831

Any updates about this engraver? Those of you who bought it, how is it performing so far? Does it require a lot of learning? I don't have any engraving knowledge/experience but I'm  seriously considering buying one of these.


----------



## Bob in SF

Hi Erik - I ordered mine last week (non-express) - should arrive this week - will post first efforts this weekend.

Best regards, Bob


----------



## mecompco

Erik831 said:


> Any updates about this engraver? Those of you who bought it, how is it performing so far? Does it require a lot of learning? I don't have any engraving knowledge/experience but I'm  seriously considering buying one of these.



Sorry I've not had much of a chance to experiment with mine yet--just got a laptop set up for the shop to run it. All I can say at this point is that it works, and was quite easy to set up. I plan to turn some hard wood spindles to test for the best font style/size on a curved surface. Will post as soon as I have results to share.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Erik831

mecompco said:


> Sorry I've not had much of a chance to experiment with mine yet--just got a laptop set up for the shop to run it. All I can say at this point is that it works, and was quite easy to set up. I plan to turn some hard wood spindles to test for the best font style/size on a curved surface. Will post as soon as I have results to share.  Regards, Michael



Thanks for the reply. I'm not tech savvy, would it be hard to operate for someone like me?


----------



## mecompco

Erik831 said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I've not had much of a chance to experiment with mine yet--just got a laptop set up for the shop to run it. All I can say at this point is that it works, and was quite easy to set up. I plan to turn some hard wood spindles to test for the best font style/size on a curved surface. Will post as soon as I have results to share.  Regards, Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm not tech savvy, would it be hard to operate for someone like me?
Click to expand...


I don't think you'd have a problem. You install the software that comes with the engraver, plug in the two USB cables and it is usable. You'll need some sort of image manipulation software. I use Photoshop Elements, but any would do.

I'm looking forward to having time to fine-tune my text engraving this weekend. I made a pen holder to sit on the bed this morning (drew it in Sketchup and printed it on the Makerbot Replicator).


----------



## low_48

mecompco said:


> Erik831 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I've not had much of a chance to experiment with mine yet--just got a laptop set up for the shop to run it. All I can say at this point is that it works, and was quite easy to set up. I plan to turn some hard wood spindles to test for the best font style/size on a curved surface. Will post as soon as I have results to share.  Regards, Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm not tech savvy, would it be hard to operate for someone like me?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I don't think you'd have a problem. You install the software that comes with the engraver, plug in the two USB cables and it is usable. You'll need some sort of image manipulation software. I use Photoshop Elements, but any would do.
> 
> I'm looking forward to having time to fine-tune my text engraving this weekend. I made a pen holder to sit on the bed this morning (drew it in Sketchup and printed it on the Makerbot Replicator).
Click to expand...


LOL Make your V block on a 3d replicator? That's a hoot! Didn't it take a few hours? I've done some assembled pens, and the clip can get in the way in a V block. I added a notch on one side to clear the clip. But, I made the block on that old fashioned table saw and used a chisel, of all things, to make the notch.


----------



## DigBaddy72

I will be setting up for an "official" engraving later tonight.  Haven't been active since Friday (threw my back out).

I like the V-block idea.  I just use some folded paper towel to hold the rounded pen blank.


----------



## low_48

DigBaddy72 said:


> I will be setting up for an "official" engraving later tonight.  Haven't been active since Friday (threw my back out).
> 
> I like the V-block idea.  I just use some folded paper towel to hold the rounded pen blank.




Be careful placing paper around a laser burn, you might just end up with a fire! No need to lock it into the v, the weight of the blank does just fine. Unless these little machines get a little jerky.


----------



## chet0213

has anyone had a chance to try these on an acrylic blank yet?


----------



## mecompco

low_48 said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Erik831 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I've not had much of a chance to experiment with mine yet--just got a laptop set up for the shop to run it. All I can say at this point is that it works, and was quite easy to set up. I plan to turn some hard wood spindles to test for the best font style/size on a curved surface. Will post as soon as I have results to share.  Regards, Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm not tech savvy, would it be hard to operate for someone like me?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I don't think you'd have a problem. You install the software that comes with the engraver, plug in the two USB cables and it is usable. You'll need some sort of image manipulation software. I use Photoshop Elements, but any would do.
> 
> I'm looking forward to having time to fine-tune my text engraving this weekend. I made a pen holder to sit on the bed this morning (drew it in Sketchup and printed it on the Makerbot Replicator).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> LOL Make your V block on a 3d replicator? That's a hoot! Didn't it take a few hours? I've done some assembled pens, and the clip can get in the way in a V block. I added a notch on one side to clear the clip. But, I made the block on that old fashioned table saw and used a chisel, of all things, to make the notch.
Click to expand...


Ha ha, yeah, I could have done it old school. I did it on "company time". Took a few minutes to draw and an hour and a half to print. If the clip is a problem, I'll take the Dremel to it. :biggrin:


----------



## mecompco

chet0213 said:


> has anyone had a chance to try these on an acrylic blank yet?



This unit is not rated for acrylic, and I'm pretty sure it won't work. Just messing around with it, I tried a Sharpie marker and it sort of worked, but I think acrylic is just too hard. I will try it, though, and share the results.


----------



## low_48

Be careful running something like a sharpie in the laser. If it has a PVC body, you will be making chlorine gas. Highly corrosive and deadly! PVC= polyvinyl chloride


----------



## mecompco

low_48 said:


> Be careful running something like a sharpie in the laser. If it has a PVC body, you will be making chlorine gas. Highly corrosive and deadly! PVC= polyvinyl chloride



Hope that doesn't result in a delayed reaction!


----------



## BRobbins629

low_48 said:


> Be careful running something like a sharpie in the laser. If it has a PVC body, you will be making chlorine gas. Highly corrosive and deadly! PVC= polyvinyl chloride



I think he meant coloring the blank with marker before lasing. One of the YouTube videos shows that technique with a what looks like a clear plastic container. Container probably styrene.


----------



## Bob in SF

Mine arrived this afternoon - cute - simple setup and operation - won't have time to fiddle with it until this weekend - but pleased with first burn onto an unsanded 1/4" square dowel from Lowe's - not regretting purchase so far - has potential - pic:






Best regards - and will keep you posted - Bob


----------



## Erik831

Bob in SF said:


> Mine arrived this afternoon - cute - simple setup and operation - won't have time to fiddle with it until this weekend - but pleased with first burn onto an unsanded 1/4" square dowel from Lowe's - not regretting purchase so far - has potential - pic:  Best regards - and will keep you posted - Bob




Thanks Bob, you convinced me with that picture, I just ordered mine !


----------



## DigBaddy72

Bob in SF said:


> Mine arrived this afternoon - cute - simple setup and operation - won't have time to fiddle with it until this weekend - but pleased with first burn onto an unsanded 1/4" square dowel from Lowe's - not regretting purchase so far - has potential - pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards - and will keep you posted - Bob



Looking at the burning, I would suggest you play around with burn time and maybe fiddle with the focusing on the laser.  I found that increasing or decreasing burn time can have an affect on how fine or blurred the burning ends up.  I haven't done enough testing to say it is fact. But I have played around a bit.  I have to get a pen engraved tonight for a client for tomorrow.  I will be shooting a video on the whole thing and will have my son touch it up all purty like and put it on youtube. 

Thanks for sharing your experience.


----------



## Bob in SF

Keith - Thanks - fine tuning suggestions are most welcome.

Looking forward to your video.

- Bob


----------



## Bob in SF

Played with it a bit more - my logo, which I created in 1994, Adobe Illustrator - converted to jpeg, my name done in warped 36pt text and saved as jpeg - burned at normal speed into un-sanded basswood (after focusing better than the first try above) - total image is about the size of my thumbnail - should work as inlays on some wooden trumpet mutes that I'm making (will soon quick-turn and 600 grit-sand a few hardwood pen blanks and see how they work out):




- Bob


----------



## mecompco

I, too, messed about with the engraver a bit today.

The first blank is pine. I first left it set to the default 60 burn time as shown by my name at the top. Then I cut the time in half to 30 and liked the results much better (all other burns are set to 30).

The second blank is walnut, just to try a harder wood. Left the burn time at 30.

Also tried one of my cast blanks, which did pretty much nothing.

I think this is going to look great on lighter woods (I'm thinking BOW and the like), as well as Bamboo pen boxes.









PS: This does make some smoke--not sure if that interferes with the laser or not. I'm thinking I'll mount a little computer fan to pull the smoke away. Oh, and I tried a piece of tan leather and had to bump the time back up to 60 to get a good image. It seems that some trial and error with various materials is par for the course to make the most of this device.


----------



## Bob in SF

Michael - Followed your lead and found that both time and smoke matter - 
30 speed on the left is too faint and has a "smoke cloud"
45 speed (name only, without logo) is crisper and cloud-free thanks to a little fan
The initial 60 speed on the right is too dark.
Conclusion for this episode: speed 45 with fan.




- Bob


----------



## ssalvage

I am curious about this working on steel, as there seems to be mixed and conflicting information available. 

Do any of you current owners have the ability/willingness to test this? If it does work, that will definitely seal the deal for me.


----------



## low_48

ssalvage said:


> I am curious about this working on steel, as there seems to be mixed and conflicting information available.
> 
> Do any of you current owners have the ability/willingness to test this? If it does work, that will definitely seal the deal for me.



If someone does this test, for God's sake WEAR LASER PROTECTION GLASSES. You'll be bouncing a laser beam around the room! My 25 watt will NOT etch steel, unless I use Cermark coating. Then it is just a coating on the surface.


----------



## Bob in SF

Getting there - quickly (and partially) turned this hard wood blank (on a 7mm tube) - sanded with 600 grit - Lithos Pro 48pt typeface in Photoshop, saved as jpeg - burned at a speed of 60 with a little fan blowing smoke away:




- Bob
(for $87.00, it works surprisingly well)


----------



## mecompco

Bob in SF said:


> Getting there - quickly (and partially) turned this hard wood blank (on a 7mm tube) - sanded with 600 grit - Lithos Pro 48pt typeface in Photoshop, saved as jpeg - burned at a speed of 60 with a little fan blowing smoke away:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Bob
> (for $87.00, it works surprisingly well)



Bob, that looks nice. The fan seems to make a big difference. I agree with you, I'm happy with the device for the modest cost. 

I'll be interested to see how the engraving looks under a finish. Time permitting, I'll make up a couple of pens to test this weekend.


----------



## Bob in SF

1st hardwood slimline - burned outside since there was a nice breeze for smoke relief (obvious benefit of burn-anywhere portability) at a speed of 60 after sanding to 600 grit followed by 2 applications of Myland's Sanding Sealer.  Finish = 3 applications of Myland's High Friction Polish.  So far, so good - and grateful to Michael for starting this thread:




Best regards - Bob
(more tests ahead this weekend)


----------



## KCW

Got mine last night, can't wait to get it up and running!  I know, I know, some people want to beat this thing to death, because it isn't a $5000 laser, but for something I can afford, it looks to do a decent job.  I don't believe that it has to be all or nothing, why not start with a bargain basement machine and see where it takes me.  If I had to wait until I had 5 grand, to start, I would never start!


----------



## ssalvage

Bob in SF said:


> 1st hardwood slimline - burned outside since there was a nice breeze for smoke relief (obvious benefit of burn-anywhere portability) at a speed of 60 after sanding to 600 grit followed by 2 applications of Myland's Sanding Sealer.  Finish = 3 applications of Myland's High Friction Polish.  So far, so good - and grateful to Michael for starting this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards - Bob
> (more tests ahead this weekend)



That looks awesome!
Just to be clear, did you burn THEN sand and finish... or did you sand to 600, apply 2 layers of finish, and then burn?


----------



## mecompco

Bob, you're welcome, and thanks for sharing your experiments. I think that pen looks awesome. 

No, this won't do what a $5K engraver will, but for the cost of two or three bags of groceries, I think it's well worth the price.

I think this will be a great way to easily add value to wooden pens, not to mention boxes, etc. I also plan on making customized wooden tags for my pens for the upcoming show season.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Turned Around

which one have you guys been ordering? the link that was initially posted takes me to a model that you configure before adding it to the cart.


----------



## mecompco

Turned Around said:


> which one have you guys been ordering? the link that was initially posted takes me to a model that you configure before adding it to the cart.



This one: NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-97.41 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

$87.99 with free standard shipping, an extra $8.00 for expedited.


----------



## Turned Around

mecompco said:


> Turned Around said:
> 
> 
> 
> which one have you guys been ordering? the link that was initially posted takes me to a model that you configure before adding it to the cart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one: NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-97.41 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
> 
> $87.99 with free standard shipping, an extra $8.00 for expedited.
Click to expand...

 

OK, for some reason I thought you guys were getting the open looking frame design with the 2500mW laser.


----------



## DigBaddy72

Thanks everyone for sharing their experiences so far.  Here is one I did last night.  The first "official" engraving for a customer.  Also my first attempt at multi-line engraving.  All alignments I did were by eye.


----------



## mecompco

DigBaddy72 said:


> Thanks everyone for sharing their experiences so far.  Here is one I did last night.  The first "official" engraving for a customer.  Also my first attempt at multi-line engraving.  All alignments I did were by eye.



Keith, that came out great! Did you rotate the blank for the second line? 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

Turned Around said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned Around said:
> 
> 
> 
> which one have you guys been ordering? the link that was initially posted takes me to a model that you configure before adding it to the cart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one: NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-97.41 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
> 
> $87.99 with free standard shipping, an extra $8.00 for expedited.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> OK, for some reason I thought you guys were getting the open looking frame design with the 2500mW laser.
Click to expand...


I think most of us have gone for the 1W version. It's kinda weird that all the versions 300mW, 500mW, 1W, and even the 2.5W versions list the same materials that they will burn. I've no idea what the actual difference it. I went for the 1W version as it was only a few bucks more than the 300 and 500 versions.

From what I've seen you really have to get into the higher Wattage versions to do do acrylic and the like (and REALLY high Wattage to do metal) with MUCH higher price tags. I think the biggest advantage of the 2.5W version would be the larger table. The one we have will only do 38mm X 38mm (500 pixel X 500 pixel) images. Big enough for pens!

You've got to hand it to the Chinese, they took a DVD drive innards, hot-glued a laser head to it and made a laser engraver that works.

I'd love to have a high-powered engraver, but being on a rather restricted budget, this one will suffice.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Bob in SF

Shane - You asked about sanding etc.:  I sanded out to 600 grit, then applied one coat of Myland's Sanding Sealer, then sanded out to 600 grit again, repeated the cycle a second time, then burned with the laser engraver, then did 3 applications of Myland's friction polish without sanding in between - just "friction polishing" between coats at higher rpm with a Scott's shop towel (as usual):




Hope this clarifies it.
- Bob


----------



## DigBaddy72

*Finally got the Video how-to posted!*

THE VIDEO IS UP!!

Finally got around to making a rough how to video on how I use the Chinese laser engraver.  My son helped to add the background music and spliced all my mini movies into one video.  Because of YouTube limitations I had to break the video into two parts.  

Part one is here: https://youtu.be/-ArDaMiy2O0
Part two is here: https://youtu.be/8spPwkeHBRk

I also give IAP permission to add this to the Library if they find it worthy enough.

ANy issues or questions or suggestions, feel free to hit me up on YouTube, Facebook, or even here on private message.


----------



## DigBaddy72

mecompco said:


> DigBaddy72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for sharing their experiences so far.  Here is one I did last night.  The first "official" engraving for a customer.  Also my first attempt at multi-line engraving.  All alignments I did were by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keith, that came out great! Did you rotate the blank for the second line?
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


I did rotate manually.  Eyeballing it all the way.  Was VERY nervous about the second line.  I explain it pretty good in the video.


----------



## Bob in SF

Nice pointers in the videos, Keith - I like your use of the keyboard arrows and top-viewing to improve alignment.

- Bob


----------



## DigBaddy72

Bob in SF said:


> Nice pointers in the videos, Keith - I like your use of the keyboard arrows and top-viewing to improve alignment.
> 
> - Bob



Thanks Bob.  A nice improvement to the frame would be to use some kind of clear plexiglass to make alignment that much easier.

I really can't wait to what others have done with this engraver.

Thank YOU for posting the pre-finish and post-finish results of your engraving.  I've been meaning to see how that turns out and I really like your results. I can see that engraving before finishing and then lightly sanding cleans up the details in the text a bit better.


----------



## PapaTim

If someone has the larger version (1600mw and up) could you answer a question please. I know the printing area is relatively small but how about the size of the piece you engrave. For example could you put something like a cutting board or the lid of a box under the larger units to engrave someone's name on it?


----------



## fisherhahn

I SOOO wish I paid the $8 for expedited shipping. I want to start playing! Thanks for those videos Keith very helpful.


----------



## jsolie

So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet?  Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?


----------



## ssalvage

Bob in SF said:


> Shane - You asked about sanding etc.:  I sanded out to 600 grit, then applied one coat of Myland's Sanding Sealer, then sanded out to 600 grit again, repeated the cycle a second time, then burned with the laser engraver, then did 3 applications of Myland's friction polish without sanding in between - just "friction polishing" between coats at higher rpm with a Scott's shop towel (as usual):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this clarifies it.
> - Bob



Yes, perfectly clear now. Thank you Bob!


----------



## mecompco

jsolie said:


> So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet?  Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?



Just performed an experiment. Put an un-turned PR blank (PR from Woodnwhimsies) flat-side up in the engraver. At a burn speed of 60, which is plenty for wood, there were no results visible and the burn took about three minutes.

I then bumped the burn time all the way up. It took over 17 minutes. Yes, there is a very slight impression in the PR. Unless you know what it issupposed to be, you would probably be unable to read it. 

So, I would say "no", 1W is not enough to engrave PR. I suspect Alumilite, acrylic, etc. would also not work.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Turned Around

Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint


----------



## Carl Fisher

Turned Around said:


> Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint



40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable. 

But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.


----------



## Turned Around

Carl Fisher said:


> Turned Around said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
> 
> But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
Click to expand...

 
Do you know of an example for one like the one you are using?


----------



## Eddie123

Hey.

I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :

On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :

Quote :

The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :

300/500mW:  High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.

1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.



So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ?  If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?

Thank you

Vegard


----------



## keithbyrd

Carl,
I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely.  However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment.  Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?


----------



## mecompco

Eddie123 said:


> Hey.
> 
> I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :
> 
> On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :
> 
> Quote :
> 
> The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :
> 
> 300/500mW:  High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.
> 
> 1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.
> 
> 
> 
> So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ?  If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Vegard



I agree it is confusing, but from the examples given they all seem to do pretty much the same thing. I "suspect" that the main difference is in speed. All three of them use DVD drive mechanisms for the XY moves, so the maximum resolution (500 pixels X 500 pixels) would, I think, be the same. Remember that these burn each pixel one at a time. 

I basically figured that for a few dollars more, 1W would be better that 500 or 300mW.


----------



## Carl Fisher

Turned Around said:


> Do you know of an example for one like the one you are using?






keithbyrd said:


> Carl,
> I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely.  However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment.  Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?



yes and yes but I really don't want to take over the OPs thread. Maybe we could spin up a new one to discuss the bigger machines.


----------



## Carl Fisher

Eddie123 said:


> Hey.
> 
> I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :
> 
> On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :
> 
> Quote :
> 
> The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :
> 
> 300/500mW:  High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.
> 
> 1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.
> 
> 
> 
> So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ?  If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Vegard




I don't believe that is what they are saying. The 1000 should be just as good resolution as the smaller ones as long as you make sure your focal point is right. If your focal point is off, you will lose resolution no matter which power laser you are using.


----------



## mecompco

Carl Fisher said:


> Turned Around said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know of an example for one like the one you are using?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keithbyrd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Carl,
> I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely.  However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment.  Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> yes and yes but I really don't want to take over the OPs thread. Maybe we could spin up a new one to discuss the bigger machines.
Click to expand...


Either way is fine with me! I'd like more info on the bigger engravers as well. It would be way cool to be able to do acrylic, etc.


----------



## Nick Rocco

Carl Fisher said:


> Turned Around said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
> 
> But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
Click to expand...


Carl,
I assume that you have the 40W Chinese laser that they sell on e-bay.  If yes, do you know if it will run on Windows 10?  I have not been able to get a good answer from some of the sellers.


----------



## Carl Fisher

Nick Rocco said:


> Carl Fisher said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned Around said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
> 
> But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Carl,
> I assume that you have the 40W Chinese laser that they sell on e-bay.  If yes, do you know if it will run on Windows 10?  I have not been able to get a good answer from some of the sellers.
Click to expand...


Yes I have one and nope it does NOT work with Windows 10

I started with my main laptop which is Windows 10 thinking how bad could it be. Boy was I wrong. CorelDraw doesn't play well with Windows 10 and the CorelLaser Chinese software overlay that interfaces with the laser hasn't been confirmed to work on X6 or X7 which are the latest and greatest of CorelDraw.  

I end up taking an older laptop and putting Windows 7 on and paid for CorelDraw X5 ($99) and now it works like a champ. The CorelDraw 12 that they give you on the disc is unstable and quite possibly an illegal bootleg.

BTW, I did spin up a new thread just so this one didn't go too far away from the original NEJE discussion.


----------



## jdmacdo

*First impression*

Well,  I got mine a few days ago and did some quick testing.  The instructions are a 1 page sheet with the specs and the location to get the software.  IT will need 2 SB ports to connect to your PC (one for power, one for transferring the design).

  My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it).  The interface is simple and it took almost no time to get the engraver up and running.

  I set it up to engrave my name on a wooden blank and was surprised by how small a 16 point letter was.  Bumping it up to 36 point was better, but still a little on the small size.  I then took our logo and imported that in.  I took about 5 minutes to engrave it (wasn't timing it, so could have been 3-7 minutes).  When it was done, it was a very good representation of the design on the wood.

  It comes with some sunglasses that you use to set the focus on the surface, but you should invest in some type of shield to use while it is running, especially if you are still using the computer it is hooked up to.  I placed a folded piece of paper over the top and front and that was enough to keep me from seeing the laser in action.

Overall, I am pleased with the early results.  I have not tried it on a round surface yet, but I think it will work just fine for small lettering.

Thanks


----------



## mecompco

jdmacdo said:


> My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it).



John, I turned my AVG anti-virus off for the install. Once installed, I let AVG remove the "Trojan" and the software continues to work. YMMV.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Akula

Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler?  I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be )


----------



## mecompco

Akula said:


> Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler?  I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be )



I dunno, but I'll try it when I get home this afternoon and report back. Looking forward to the smell (not!).

Regards,
Michael


----------



## jsolie

mecompco said:


> jsolie said:
> 
> 
> 
> So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet?  Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just performed an experiment. Put an un-turned PR blank (PR from Woodnwhimsies) flat-side up in the engraver. At a burn speed of 60, which is plenty for wood, there were no results visible and the burn took about three minutes.
> 
> I then bumped the burn time all the way up. It took over 17 minutes. Yes, there is a very slight impression in the PR. Unless you know what it issupposed to be, you would probably be unable to read it.
> 
> So, I would say "no", 1W is not enough to engrave PR. I suspect Alumilite, acrylic, etc. would also not work.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Thank you very much!  Still waiting for mine to arrive.


----------



## pianomanpj

mecompco said:


> Akula said:
> 
> 
> 
> Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler?  I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno, but I'll try it when I get home this afternoon and report back. Looking forward to the smell (not!).
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


That will probably smell like a burning toenail. :bulgy-eyes:


----------



## jdmacdo

mecompco said:


> jdmacdo said:
> 
> 
> 
> My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John, I turned my AVG anti-virus off for the install. Once installed, I let AVG remove the "Trojan" and the software continues to work. YMMV.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Michael,

  I was able to get it downloaded finally, and I just need to remember to have the AV software remove it next time I run.  I added that just so people who get it know that it may take some work to get it up and running.


----------



## Bob in SF

*Clean Burn onto Polymer Clay*

Nice clean burn onto (heat cured) copper metallic color Sculpey Premo polymer clay, rolled in a pasta roller to 3/64" thickness - opens up some nice possibilities.
I haven't tried uncured poly clay yet - but will (soon).
I burned this outside (noxious fumes):





- Bob


----------



## Sylvanite

Bob in SF said:


> Nice clean burn onto (heat cured) copper metallic color Sculpey Premo polymer clay, rolled in a pasta roller to 3/64" thickness - opens up some nice possibilities.
> I haven't tried uncured poly clay yet - but will (soon).
> I burned this outside (noxious fumes):



[size=+1]DO NOT LASER ENGRAVE POLYMER CLAY![/size]

Polymer clay is composed of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which is one of the materials one should never laser engrave.  It releases corrosive and potentially toxic gasses, including hydrogen chloride.  They can etch your laser's lens, rust the metal parts, and burn your lungs.

Avoid PVC!

Sincerely,
Eric


----------



## Carl Fisher

I agree. Always look into the makeup of what you are applying the laser to. There are several big NO GO materials that release toxic gasses that can be lethal.

PVC or anything that contains chloride is a huge red flag.


----------



## Bob in SF

Thanks, Eric and Carl - your thoughts are well taken and appreciated.

As noted, *I burned it outside* (and was not nearby).

I also cure my thin-rolled PVC in a toaster over (275 degrees, 7 min, depending on thickness) outside.  

I certainly agree that closed space - and even well-ventilated spaces working with PVC and an array of other materials can be hazardous.

I'm grateful to hear that PVC-engraving can damage the engraver lens - did not know about that.

Best regards, and thanks again, Bob

PS:  I also do my pyrography and airbrushing (with a good quality respirator mask) outside eg:  Mom and Pop on the Prairie





Agree - stay safe


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

I've been following this thread, and this looks interesting to me.  I don't see in the specs what the maximum thickness of material is that this will work on.  I'm guessing from the Gearbest photos that an 1 to 1-1/4 inches may be the max, but would appreciate if anyone has this info or could test.

Thanks!


----------



## jdmacdo

Bill in Buena Park said:


> I've been following this thread, and this looks interesting to me.  I don't see in the specs what the maximum thickness of material is that this will work on.  I'm guessing from the Gearbest photos that an 1 to 1-1/4 inches may be the max, but would appreciate if anyone has this info or could test.
> 
> Thanks!



The test blank I used was close to 1" and there was still more room to go bigger and still focus the laser eye.


----------



## Carl Fisher

An on point article for those interested in lasers.

What's a Laser Engraver, and What Can You Do with One?


----------



## pianomanpj

There have been some warnings about what NOT to cut with a laser, and there is a link to a comprehensive list on the page that Carl provided above. For the sake of ease, here's a direct link to that list:   Laser Cutter Materials - ATXHackerspace


----------



## mecompco

Akula said:


> Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler?  I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be )



So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.


----------



## Turned Around

Holy crap. want one more than ever now. soooooooo many hunter friends that have already bought a handful of my bolt action antler pens would love to get their name, cabin or land name on a pen


----------



## ssalvage

Carl Fisher said:


> An on point article for those interested in lasers.
> 
> What's a Laser Engraver, and What Can You Do with One?



A quote from the article: "Finally, it should go without saying, but you should never put naked flesh in the path of the cutter’s laser beam."

Well, there goes my idea of giving myself a laser engraved tattoo.  Wonder if it is too late to cancel my order? ...   :laugh::laugh:


----------



## low_48

mecompco said:


> Akula said:
> 
> 
> 
> Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler?  I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
Click to expand...


I've seen some engravings posted that I would not be able to charge for because of quality issues. This one doesn't appear to be successful to me, yet you claim no problem with antler. I'm confused?


----------



## wood-of-1kind

Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.


----------



## low_48

wood-of-1kind said:


> Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.



So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.


----------



## ssalvage

low_48 said:


> wood-of-1kind said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
Click to expand...


As I understand it, people are posting pictures of their testing results, not of "sale-able items." Michael acknowledged that the burn on the antler wasn't perfect, but was showing proof of concept that yes, it will burn just fine with this unit. He said he burned for 60 seconds, but that it would have been better if it went longer. 

Personally I appreciate that so many people are willing to post results like this. It helps to minimize the fine tuning I will need to do once mine arrives.


----------



## mecompco

low_48 said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Akula said:
> 
> 
> 
> Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler?  I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I've seen some engravings posted that I would not be able to charge for because of quality issues. This one doesn't appear to be successful to me, yet you claim no problem with antler. I'm confused?
Click to expand...


I grabbed the image, dropped it into the laser software and burned it. I did no adjustments to the image, no focusing of the laser, or tweaking of the burn time. This was simply a test to see if it would burn antler. Yes, it burned it successfully, and with some adjustments, I have no doubt I could have gotten "sellable" results.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

low_48 said:


> wood-of-1kind said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
Click to expand...


You've been turning pens for many years. How did your first pens turn out? I've probably spent an hour or two total with the engraver. Yes, there is a learning curve. :biggrin:

Regards,
Michael


----------



## low_48

mecompco said:


> low_48 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wood-of-1kind said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> You've been turning pens for many years. How did your first pens turn out? I've probably spent an hour or two total with the engraver. Yes, there is a learning curve. :biggrin:
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Can't see how my turning skills and abilities compares to using a computer controlled machine. Missing and illegible text shouldn't take skills to correct. I've never seen that issue before with a laser engraver. That's my point. At this price point you really get what you pay for. For several hundred more, you'll get all the text that you have on the screen. You might still have a lot of issues with no support from the supplier, but you get all the letters burnt in if it fires. Maybe you guys are saying it's a celebration that it even fires? That should be a given if you buy something.


----------



## mecompco

low_48 said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> low_48 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wood-of-1kind said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> You've been turning pens for many years. How did your first pens turn out? I've probably spent an hour or two total with the engraver. Yes, there is a learning curve. :biggrin:
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Can't see how my turning skills and abilities compares to using a computer controlled machine. Missing and illegible text shouldn't take skills to correct. I've never seen that issue before with a laser engraver. That's my point. At this price point you really get what you pay for. For several hundred more, you'll get all the text that you have on the screen. You might still have a lot of issues with no support from the supplier, but you get all the letters burnt in if it fires. Maybe you guys are saying it's a celebration that it even fires? That should be a given if you buy something.
Click to expand...


OK, I give up--you win. You're right. Perhaps you'd rather participate in the 40 Watt laser engraver thread?

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Carl Fisher

This thread degraded pretty quick.

There is in fact a learning curve to any laser machine. Ask any engraver and you're likely to find that they have a reference book of power and feed rates for all sorts of materials. And at that, bone may engrave at a different power or feed rate from antler or from horn, etc...

Same with wood. Some woods will engrave slow while others will burn quick.

Yes a $90 machine will have limitations but that doesn't mean it's completely worthless and I for one can't wait to see what people come up with using them.


----------



## Bob in SF

I again thank Michael for starting this thread (and surprised the thread has gotten a bit edgy).

This simply-lettered Chinese 1 watt laser-engraved gift pen to honor my daughter's mastery of Ruby on Rails (web application framework development software) in her tech company brought in 4 prepaid orders in a 6 hour time frame - intense "penvy" among her peers:






No, it's not a high end engraver - but it has more than paid for itself already.

My background includes 30+ years of hand engraving - so I do know a little about the old school of scratching down information and imagery without electricity.
Here's a copper hand engraved/chased/repoussed/liver of sulfur patina-finished banded butterfly fish commission for a California Academy of Sciences scientist - 3+ hours of thumb-wracking work, 4x6":




(yes, I also have pneumatic tools, but the commission was for hand engraving)

I impulse-bought this little Chinese engraver with an open mind (and thanks to Michael's thread) in order to complement unique pens and other art pieces - no great expectations, but ample fun on a shoestring.

Warm regards to all laser combatants and adventurers.

- Bob


----------



## Erik831

Hey Bob, I bought the engraver last week and paid expedited shipping and is still showing as processing order. Is this normal?


----------



## Bob in SF

Hi Erik - I ordered mine non-expedited on 5/5/16 - delivered here in San Francisco on 5/14/16 = 9 days.

You might wait another day or 2, then contact them (you should have order number info, etc. in your email from them confirming your purchase).

This was my first order via GearBest, so I don't have past experience.

Hope yours arrives soon. - Bob


----------



## mecompco

Erik831 said:


> Hey Bob, I bought the engraver last week and paid expedited shipping and is still showing as processing order. Is this normal?



Erik, I've ordered three times from Gearbest. Expedited the first time took 11 days. Non-expedited the second time took 25 days. This last time for the laser took five days. Not much rhyme or reason to it, but they have always delivered. Oh, and the "tracking" doesn't seem to change until delivery.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

Bob, that is awesome that you've already paid for the machine! And you're fish engraving is wonderful--thanks for sharing that.

Glad we're back on a positive track! 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Akula

Thank you for posting the test of the antler.  Based off that image result, I got one coming now.  I have some ideas and they all involve antler so this will/should be perfect.


----------



## mecompco

Akula said:


> Thank you for posting the test of the antler.  Based off that image result, I got one coming now.  I have some ideas and they all involve antler so this will/should be perfect.



Awesome! As to my test example, of course better results can be achieved. Even though this is an electronic device, one must consider the image being burned, the material being burned and the available adjustments (laser focal point and burn time (the amount of time the laser spends on each pixel).

A largish graphic on a curved surface will likely be degraded towards the outside of the image, as shown in my example due to the change in the focal point of the beam. I'm currently busy burning my logo on 1.5" flat wooden circles for use as pen tags or whatever and the (relatively) large image is coming out great.

Let us know when your device arrives.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Nick Rocco

mecompco said:


> Akula said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for posting the test of the antler.  Based off that image result, I got one coming now.  I have some ideas and they all involve antler so this will/should be perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! As to my test example, of course better results can be achieved. Even though this is an electronic device, one must consider the image being burned, the material being burned and the available adjustments (laser focal point and burn time (the amount of time the laser spends on each pixel).
> 
> A largish graphic on a curved surface will likely be degraded towards the outside of the image, as shown in my example due to the change in the focal point of the beam. I'm currently busy burning my logo on 1.5" flat wooden circles for use as pen tags or whatever and the (relatively) large image is coming out great.
> 
> Let us know when your device arrives.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Michael,
Would you be willing to post up a couple of pictures of your pen tags?  My laser just arrived and that is exactly what I was planning to use it for.  I am looking forward to trying it out this weekend.
Thanks,
NR


----------



## Turned Around

One thing I have yet to hear about is the approximate life span of this thing. Replacing it would still be cheaper than replacing just the CO2 tube on a larger machine. Your idea of tags is great, but how many can it do before the machine goes out? I'm still planning on getting one, but the talk so far has been about the image quality (which I'm fine with) and test results, but nothing on the lifespan of the machine.


----------



## DigBaddy72

I have sold two pens with engraving on it.  I did have to go through two blanks in order to get it right. For some reason the engraver was off-setting the first row of pixels.  This only happened on the first burn.  Not sure if I should be concerned or not.  This is another reason why I have numerous "test" blanks turned for various sized pens.


----------



## Carl Fisher

Offset during printing is usually the result of the timing belts skipping or the steppers missing a step.

Now since these NEJE are based on optical drive chassis I'm not sure if there is a belt or not. I'm guessing on first print something had to "seat" back into place after shipping.


----------



## mecompco

Carl Fisher said:


> Offset during printing is usually the result of the timing belts skipping or the steppers missing a step.
> 
> Now since these NEJE are based on optical drive chassis I'm not sure if there is a belt or not. I'm guessing on first print something had to "seat" back into place after shipping.



Just had a peek at mine--no belts. The stepper motors drive a "screw" type assembly. IDK why it would offset some pixels. I have been always having it go back to "Origin" before starting a burn.


----------



## mecompco

Turned Around said:


> One thing I have yet to hear about is the approximate life span of this thing. Replacing it would still be cheaper than replacing just the CO2 tube on a larger machine. Your idea of tags is great, but how many can it do before the machine goes out? I'm still planning on getting one, but the talk so far has been about the image quality (which I'm fine with) and test results, but nothing on the lifespan of the machine.



I have no idea at all. I'm sure the two optical drive mechanisms are reliable (in over 25 years in IT, I can't recall more than a couple optical drives biting the dust). 

As to the laser, well, I'm sure there is a duty cycle it can handle. I'm thinking a best practice would be to keep the "burn number" down as much as you can while getting the desired results and not keep it running continuously. 

As you said, it is more-or-less disposable. I do imagine replacing the laser head wouldn't be too much of a problem.


----------



## BRobbins629

*Mythbusted*

I recently received my 1000mW laser engraver.  One of the things I wanted to explore was to see if there was a way to engrave plastics with these.  I am pursuing 2 methods.  

The first is to put an additive into the plastic which will absorb the laser.  This concept has been used for years in the laser marking industry.  I thought of several I might try when a light bulb went off and said why not try sawdust?  If these can mark wood, certainly sawdust should work.  This was my first attempt - a 72 point font with about 70% setting on the power.  Material is epoxy with sawdust and a few drops of white Mixol pigment.





My second idea was to apply something over the plastic that would burn and hopefully have enough heat to make it into the plastic.  For this trial I used an Avery label and adhered it to a blank of white PR I had cast a long time ago.  Although there is only a partial image - not sure what happened, I think this method too holds some promise.  It is a permanent image.  Just need the right type of paper, perhaps held on with a temporary spray adhesive. Power setting for this was about 85%.





A little too hot in the shop now, but perhaps some others can play with these techniques to refine.  One of the other additives I want to try is cellulose powder.  May also be a good use for Metamucil.

Can't engrave plastics with this laser - busted!


----------



## jsolie

Erik831 said:


> Hey Bob, I bought the engraver last week and paid expedited shipping and is still showing as processing order. Is this normal?





Bob in SF said:


> Hi Erik - I ordered mine non-expedited on 5/5/16 - delivered here in San Francisco on 5/14/16 = 9 days.
> 
> You might wait another day or 2, then contact them (you should have order number info, etc. in your email from them confirming your purchase).
> 
> This was my first order via GearBest, so I don't have past experience.
> 
> Hope yours arrives soon. - Bob



Good to know that I'm not the only one puzzling over the shipping of an engraver.  Mine has gone from Southern California to Nevada to Sacramento to pretty close to where I live to Flushing, NY.  I reached out to GearBest after 11 days, and they mentioned that the estimated shipping time is "5-15 days"


----------



## Bob in SF

Nice, Bruce - liking the epoxy/sawdust/Mixol possibilities - light bulbs are good. - Bob


----------



## pianomanpj

BRobbins629 said:


> I recently received my 1000mW laser engraver.  One of the things I wanted to explore was to see if there was a way to engrave plastics with these.  I am pursuing 2 methods.
> 
> The first is to put an additive into the plastic which will absorb the laser.  This concept has been used for years in the laser marking industry.  I thought of several I might try when a light bulb went off and said why not try sawdust?  If these can mark wood, certainly sawdust should work.  This was my first attempt - a 72 point font with about 70% setting on the power.  Material is epoxy with sawdust and a few drops of white Mixol pigment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second idea was to apply something over the plastic that would burn and hopefully have enough heat to make it into the plastic.  For this trial I used an *Avery label* and adhered it to a blank of white PR I had cast a long time ago.  Although there is only a partial image - not sure what happened, I think this method too holds some promise.  It is a permanent image.  Just need *the right type of paper*, perhaps held on with a temporary spray adhesive. Power setting for this was about 85%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little too hot in the shop now, but perhaps some others can play with these techniques to refine.  One of the other additives I want to try is cellulose powder.  May also be a good use for Metamucil.
> 
> Can't engrave plastics with this laser - busted!



Bruce,

Perhaps if you color the label black first it may absorb more of the light waves and generate more heat.


----------



## sbwertz

Nick Rocco said:


> Has anyone tried this laser engraver?  I know it is a bit of an overkill for pen engraving but I like the higher power and larger work space if I ever needed it in the future.  My only concern is that it is Windows 7 compatible but not Windows 10 and I am not sure if the backwards compatibility feature of Windows 10 will cover it.  The seller said that it is NOT windows 10 compatible.
> 
> 40W USB DIY Laser ENGRAVER Cutter Engraving Cutting Machine Laser Printer CO2 | eBay



Maybe the answer is to keep a laptop or old desktop on win7.  They are supporting win7 for six more years.  I am keeping one computer on win7 just for those programs that will not support 10.  If you run gwx control panel it will prevent MS from updating your computer whether you want it to or not!

You can do a lot of engraving in six years!


----------



## Bob in SF

Many thanks, Sharon - just downloaded gwx from here: Ultimate Outsider - Software Downloads

Nice solution to the Windows 10 stampede.

Gratefully, Bob


----------



## mecompco

Bob in SF said:


> Many thanks, Sharon - just downloaded gwx from here: Ultimate Outsider - Software Downloads
> 
> Nice solution to the Windows 10 stampede.
> 
> Gratefully, Bob



Here's another solution to stop the pesky Win 10 nonsense: 

https://www.grc.com/never10.htm

Run it once and Win 10 is done. BTW, the author Steve Gibson has been around "forever", and it highly respected.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## sbwertz

I'm not familiar with never10, but one of the features of gwx control panel is that you can turn it back on if you do decide to upgrade after all.  It also allows you to choose from a list of things you want to do....stop the nagging upgrade notices, stop the drive-by stealth upgrade, delete already downloaded win 10 files, etc.


----------



## mecompco

sbwertz said:


> I'm not familiar with never10, but one of the features of gwx control panel is that you can turn it back on if you do decide to upgrade after all.  It also allows you to choose from a list of things you want to do....stop the nagging upgrade notices, stop the drive-by stealth upgrade, delete already downloaded win 10 files, etc.



Sharon, I should have mentioned that Never10 also allows you to re-enable the upgrade should you wish. Not that there's anything at all wrong with GWX!


----------



## duncsuss

AVG Antivirus complained so loudly about the driver software for this thing, I have no intention of connecting the laptop I'm using to my network.

The Windows 10 install will not happen until Microsoft figure out a way to push software to a computer that isn't on the net :biggrin:


----------



## fisherhahn

So I finally got it! I set everything up downloaded the driver and software no problem. When I try to drag and drop an image I keep getting the same error message--Sorry  Wrong File type. I tried with file types jpg, gif, png and nothing works. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the driver. tried my old desktop but I think it is too old and it could not find the device. I'm at a loss I don't know what to try next. Anyone else have issues getting started?


----------



## mecompco

fisherhahn said:


> So I finally got it! I set everything up downloaded the driver and software no problem. When I try to drag and drop an image I keep getting the same error message--Sorry  Wrong File type. I tried with file types jpg, gif, png and nothing works. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the driver. tried my old desktop but I think it is too old and it could not find the device. I'm at a loss I don't know what to try next. Anyone else have issues getting started?



Hmmm--weird! What OS are you using? Don't think .gifs will work, but both .jpgs and .pngs should be fine. Does the device show up as connected in the pane on the left side of the software? It should show a log as to connections, sending images to the device, etc.


----------



## fisherhahn

I'm running windows 10. it does show that Successfully connected to the engraving machine. I am able to move the head using the up down left and right buttons. After I get the error message I've tried hitting the send image to machine button and it pulls up some preset cartoon image. I emailed the manufacturer but can't figure out what else to try.


----------



## jsolie

Well, my engraver got delivered.  To someone in Inwood, NY.  Note that I live in Murrieta, CA.  Guys, be careful with GearBest.


----------



## mecompco

jsolie said:


> Well, my engraver got delivered.  To someone in Inwood, NY.  Note that I live in Murrieta, CA.  Guys, be careful with GearBest.



That bites! All three of my orders from gearbest were delivered correctly and in a reasonable amount of time. I hope they are helping you out. Please keep us informed.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

Sorry to hear that John.  I was beginning to fear mine would be mis-delivered or lost as well - after watching USPS give it the tour of California, it finally arrived at my house 3+ weeks after I ordered with "expedited shipping".  I think this is a USPS issue, unless GearBest mislabeled your package.  Let us know what they do for you.


----------



## mecompco

fisherhahn said:


> I'm running windows 10. it does show that Successfully connected to the engraving machine. I am able to move the head using the up down left and right buttons. After I get the error message I've tried hitting the send image to machine button and it pulls up some preset cartoon image. I emailed the manufacturer but can't figure out what else to try.



Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

Bill in Buena Park said:


> Sorry to hear that John.  I was beginning to fear mine would be mis-delivered or lost as well - after watching USPS give it the tour of California, it finally arrived at my house 3+ weeks after I ordered with "expedited shipping".  I think this is a USPS issue, unless GearBest mislabeled your package.  Let us know what they do for you.



Glad it arrived safely. FWIW, 3 weeks is still better than non-expedited shipping times.


----------



## jsolie

mecompco said:


> That bites! All three of my orders from gearbest were delivered correctly and in a reasonable amount of time. I hope they are helping you out. Please keep us informed.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael



I'm not sure how much they're helping out at this point.  I'll probably have to dispute the charge with my bank. 



Bill in Buena Park said:


> Sorry to hear that John.  I was beginning to fear mine would be mis-delivered or lost as well - after watching USPS give it the tour of California, it finally arrived at my house 3+ weeks after I ordered with "expedited shipping".  I think this is a USPS issue, unless GearBest mislabeled your package.  Let us know what they do for you.



Will do.  It's last "event" in California (West Sacramento) was "Shipping Exception."  Never a good thing.  It spent time in California, Nevada, back to California, down to San Bernardino which is about 40 or so miles away, then off to New York, then back to Sacramento, then back to two different places in New York. 

Are there any other vendors who sell these engravers?


----------



## mecompco

jsolie said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> That bites! All three of my orders from gearbest were delivered correctly and in a reasonable amount of time. I hope they are helping you out. Please keep us informed.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how much they're helping out at this point.  I'll probably have to dispute the charge with my bank.
> 
> 
> 
> Bill in Buena Park said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear that John.  I was beginning to fear mine would be mis-delivered or lost as well - after watching USPS give it the tour of California, it finally arrived at my house 3+ weeks after I ordered with "expedited shipping".  I think this is a USPS issue, unless GearBest mislabeled your package.  Let us know what they do for you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Will do.  It's last "event" in California (West Sacramento) was "Shipping Exception."  Never a good thing.  It spent time in California, Nevada, back to California, down to San Bernardino which is about 40 or so miles away, then off to New York, then back to Sacramento, then back to two different places in New York.
> 
> Are there any other vendors who sell these engravers?
Click to expand...


There's a bunch on eBay from various sellers--all in China. I can't vouch for gearbest's practices other than to note that I've ordered from them three times w/no problems, and everyone else here got their orders. Hey, I've had FEDEX lose a shipment and refuse to accept responsibility. I'm sure it's the shipping companies fault. But, still, you're out your money and your engraver, so I understand the frustration!


----------



## fisherhahn

Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.

So I tried troubleshoot compatibility and tried running in windows 7 and 8 with no luck. I'm wondering if the problem is with the software they sent me. Would you, or anyone who has been successful, be willing to let me mail a formatted SD card to copy the software and send back to me? I can't see the problem being with the machine itself as the only part thing that won't work is dragging and dropping pics. No response yet from the manufacturer...


----------



## mecompco

fisherhahn said:


> Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.
> 
> So I tried troubleshoot compatibility and tried running in windows 7 and 8 with no luck. I'm wondering if the problem is with the software they sent me. Would you, or anyone who has been successful, be willing to let me mail a formatted SD card to copy the software and send back to me? I can't see the problem being with the machine itself as the only part thing that won't work is dragging and dropping pics. No response yet from the manufacturer...



I can email you a copy of my .exe, if you like. Just PM me your addy. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## ssalvage

jsolie said:


> Well, my engraver got delivered.  To someone in Inwood, NY.  Note that I live in Murrieta, CA.  Guys, be careful with GearBest.



I feel your pain. Here's my saga...

I ordered mine on 5/20 and paid for expedited shipping (estimated 4 - 7 business days).

11 days later (business day #6) on 5/31, I get an email that it has shipped... Ummm  OK??  They are gonna have to really hustle to get it to me overnight! :laugh: (They were also kind enough to include a blurry picture of a shipping label that appears to have my name and address on it). 
I eagerly check the tracking status, and I get "shipment was not found." I attempt to confirm the tracking number provided with the "blurry picture" which looks like it is correct... but maybe not??? I left it alone, assuming it may take a day or so to enter the tracking database. 

6/1 - E[xpedited] D[elivery]-day. Was not shocked in the least bit when the package was not delivered. I guess my extra 8 dollars wasn't as persuasive as I thought. 

As of today 6/2 - E D-day+1, I have checked my tracking status, and am happy to report "shipment was not found."   ...actually, wait. I guess I am not really happy about that. :tongue:

Oh well, I guess I'll give it a few days and see what happens before I complain to GearBest, but once it arrives I will very politely insist that they refund my "expedited" shipping.  :laugh:

The thing I find most odd, is that I assumed it would be shipping from China. If the information they gave me is correct, it actually shipped from the Netherlands???


----------



## ssalvage

mecompco said:


> fisherhahn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.
> 
> So I tried troubleshoot compatibility and tried running in windows 7 and 8 with no luck. I'm wondering if the problem is with the software they sent me. Would you, or anyone who has been successful, be willing to let me mail a formatted SD card to copy the software and send back to me? I can't see the problem being with the machine itself as the only part thing that won't work is dragging and dropping pics. No response yet from the manufacturer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can email you a copy of my .exe, if you like. Just PM me your addy.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Just a tip... You may want to upload this to Dropbox or something similar, then email a link to it instead. I don't know of a single email system anymore that won't zap an exe file that gets attached.


----------



## fisherhahn

mecompco said:


> fisherhahn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.
> 
> So I tried troubleshoot compatibility and tried running in windows 7 and 8 with no luck. I'm wondering if the problem is with the software they sent me. Would you, or anyone who has been successful, be willing to let me mail a formatted SD card to copy the software and send back to me? I can't see the problem being with the machine itself as the only part thing that won't work is dragging and dropping pics. No response yet from the manufacturer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can email you a copy of my .exe, if you like. Just PM me your addy.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


PM sent. Thanks for taking the time!


----------



## mecompco

fisherhahn said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fisherhahn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.
> 
> So I tried troubleshoot compatibility and tried running in windows 7 and 8 with no luck. I'm wondering if the problem is with the software they sent me. Would you, or anyone who has been successful, be willing to let me mail a formatted SD card to copy the software and send back to me? I can't see the problem being with the machine itself as the only part thing that won't work is dragging and dropping pics. No response yet from the manufacturer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can email you a copy of my .exe, if you like. Just PM me your addy.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> PM sent. Thanks for taking the time!
Click to expand...


No problem! Just sent the program a couple different ways. Let us know if it works. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## fisherhahn

mecompco said:


> fisherhahn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fisherhahn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck yet? I don't have a 10 machine handy, but in previous Windows versions, if you right-click the icon for the program, you will have an option to "Troubleshoot Compatibilty" or words to that effect. Try that, and run the laser software in Windows 7 mode. I have a program at work that will not run on 8.1 or 10 machines w/o running in 7 compatibility mode.
> 
> So I tried troubleshoot compatibility and tried running in windows 7 and 8 with no luck. I'm wondering if the problem is with the software they sent me. Would you, or anyone who has been successful, be willing to let me mail a formatted SD card to copy the software and send back to me? I can't see the problem being with the machine itself as the only part thing that won't work is dragging and dropping pics. No response yet from the manufacturer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It worked! Thank you! I'm burning and playing already! People on this site are the best. I just hope that I'm able to pass along some knowledge to help someone who needs it in the future.
> I can email you a copy of my .exe, if you like. Just PM me your addy.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> PM sent. Thanks for taking the time!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> No problem! Just sent the program a couple different ways. Let us know if it works.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


It worked! Thank you, I'm burning and playing with it already! The people on this site are great! I just hope I'm able to pass along some knowledge to help someone in the future...


----------



## mecompco

fisherhahn said:


> It worked! Thank you, I'm burning and playing with it already! The people on this site are great! I just hope I'm able to pass along some knowledge to help someone in the future...



Awesome! Make some smoke and show us some pix! :biggrin:

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Fordwakeman

mecompco said:


> Awesome! Make some smoke and show us some pix! :biggrin:
> 
> Regards,
> Michael



Do you think it would cut veneer?


----------



## duncsuss

Fordwakeman said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Make some smoke and show us some pix! :biggrin:
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it would cut veneer?
Click to expand...


I'm sure that it will.

Attached photo shows it burned through this maple veneer in a couple of places -- with the burn time set to 25. (This is the back side of the veneer.)


----------



## mecompco

Just did a burn on one of the red stained wooden pen boxes for my Niece's graduation. I'm sorry I didn't get a pic--finished it just as we were leaving for her party. I used Harlow Solid Italic in MS Paint at a size 48 font (three lines of text as large as I could make them). It really came out extremely nice. I did a test burn on the white outer cardboard sleeve to check focus as it's at about the same distance as the actual box. I used a burn time of 50 as I thought the red stain might affect it.

How's everyone else doing?

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Akula

I just keep finding more things to engrave and more designs to burn.  I already have plans for a much bigger laser.

This is a lot of fun


----------



## DigBaddy72

Haven't had a chance to engrave anything else yet.  Have an order for two USAF pens that will be engraved.  Should be interesting.  Glad to see others are enjoying this laser as much as I am.


----------



## Nick Rocco

I finally got around to trying out my laser.  I was able to burn one of the stock pictures pretty easily.

I then tried to burn my name form a .jpg  file created in Corel and it would not work.  I just kept getting a message that it was the wrong file type.  

Can anyone make any suggestions on how to create a text file to burn?

Thanks.


----------



## duncsuss

Nick Rocco said:


> I finally got around to trying out my laser.  I was able to burn one of the stock pictures pretty easily.
> 
> I then tried to burn my name form a .jpg  file created in Corel and it would not work.  I just kept getting a message that it was the wrong file type.
> 
> Can anyone make any suggestions on how to create a text file to burn?
> 
> Thanks.



JPG (out of Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop) worked fine for me. It's over 10 years since I used Corel, so I don't know what options they include for jpg/jpg2000, interleaved/noninterleaved, etc, etc, etc.

If you'd like, send me the file. I'll try it on my burner, and I'll open it up in one of the tools I have and fiddle with the settings till it works for me (then let you know what settings I used.) Shoot me a PM.


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

Try saving as a BMP or GIF.  I don't use Corel, but using Paint in Windows without issues.  I start with a 500x500 pixel image, add text at the top, crop to size, save file as JPG or BMP, then drop into the NEJE software.


----------



## Akula

I use Irfanview (free program) to do any quick resize, reformat and minor adjustments and save as a jpeg.
IrfanView - Official Homepage - one of the most popular viewers worldwide


----------



## jsolie

Well my engraver finally arrived!

The current bummer is that my micro SD to SD adapter has gone AWOL.  I am having a devil of a time trying to download the driver from their website.  Did someone post a link to the driver software?  If so, I'm having some difficulty locating that post with the link.


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

John, you will have to mess with your antivirus software in order for the downloads to work.  There are two files you'll need - a "driver.exe" which loads drivers for the unit, and the laser carve software - I believe these are all in the zip file on their website.  If that still doesn't work and you want to send me your email address, I can try to email the driver.exe to you.


----------



## jsolie

Yeah, I finally got it figured out, but it was really sketchy.  All the stuff I needed was in the documentation ZIP file.  I'm now trying to burn a test image on a piece of cardboard.


----------



## Nick Rocco

Thank you to all for helping to figure out my Corel file format issue.  Thanks to everyone's input, I went back and checked the file details when I exported to a .jpg file.  I found that you have to specify gray scale for things to work properly.


----------



## Erik831

I'm trying to set up the engraver, and can't figure it out. I have a Mac any ideas how to set it up?


----------



## low_48

Erik831 said:


> I'm trying to set up the engraver, and can't figure it out. I have a Mac any ideas how to set it up?



Use the Mac to order a PC?


----------



## Erik831

low_48 said:


> Use the Mac to order a PC?



That won't be necessary. I got it. Thanks for the suggestion though.


----------



## Eddie123

Hey.

Did you manage to set it up on a Mac, or did you have to use a Windows PC ?

Vegard



Erik831 said:


> low_48 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Use the Mac to order a PC?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That won't be necessary. I got it. Thanks for the suggestion though.
> 
> View attachment 150953
Click to expand...


----------



## Erik831

Eddie123 said:


> Hey.  Did you manage to set it up on a Mac, or did you have to use a Windows PC ?  Vegard




I used boot camp. There's a tutorial for doing it using Mac OS , I tried it many times and couldn't make it work


----------



## walshjp17

Erik831 said:


> I'm trying to set up the engraver, and can't figure it out. I have a Mac any ideas how to set it up?



If you're interested in a native Mac installation, head over to FB Small Laser Reviews and Help group.  Matthew Cooper helped me and others get set up with our Macs.  Software is a hack of the Windows s/w that does work quite well natively.


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

I've been playing with burn depth on the little NEJE, and since I don't fill my engravings on wood pens, I'm liking the burn setting of 75 to produce a nice depth on the engraving.  This is recent Curvado in Olive that I made as a gift for a retiring coworker.  Thanks for looking.

And thanks again to Michael (the OP) for bringing this little gem to my attention.


----------



## PenPal

A mate of mine has a small unit he was using for his pens (excellent).

Giving up pens now bought a larger machine both direct from China his sales returns are four fold plus than from his pens. A few samples I got from him today.

Plus a couple of signs he cut from plastic.

Peter.


----------



## PapaTim

Bill in Buena Park said:


> I've been playing with burn depth on the little NEJE, and since I don't fill my engravings on wood pens, I'm liking the burn setting of 75 to produce a nice depth on the engraving.  This is recent Curvado in Olive that I made as a gift for a retiring coworker.  Thanks for looking.
> 
> And thanks again to Michael (the OP) for bringing this little gem to my attention.


 
Nice crisp lettering. Looks like someone's got their machine settings dialed in. Is there much of an adjustment between softer and harder woods with these units?


----------



## mecompco

Bill in Buena Park said:


> I've been playing with burn depth on the little NEJE, and since I don't fill my engravings on wood pens, I'm liking the burn setting of 75 to produce a nice depth on the engraving.  This is recent Curvado in Olive that I made as a gift for a retiring coworker.  Thanks for looking.
> 
> And thanks again to Michael (the OP) for bringing this little gem to my attention.



Bill, you're welcome! BTW, what font did you use? That looks very nice.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

PapaTim said:


> Bill in Buena Park said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been playing with burn depth on the little NEJE, and since I don't fill my engravings on wood pens, I'm liking the burn setting of 75 to produce a nice depth on the engraving.  This is recent Curvado in Olive that I made as a gift for a retiring coworker.  Thanks for looking.
> 
> And thanks again to Michael (the OP) for bringing this little gem to my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice crisp lettering. Looks like someone's got their machine settings dialed in. Is there much of an adjustment between softer and harder woods with these units?
Click to expand...


Pretty much the only adjustment is the time setting. The higher up the you go, the longer the laser spends burning each pixel. If unsure, one can always do test burns on the square blank before turning (though you'll have to re-focus when it comes time to burn on the finished blank).

Regards,
Michael


----------



## sbwertz

I got my laser and brought it with me to CT.  My grandsons are having a great time with it.  

Do I remember that someone said they made a file of instructions for this thing that is not written in Chinglish?  The boys (11 and 15) find the instructions hilarious.  They had no problem getting it set up and have alread burned several images.  They are going to try burning leather next.  It would help a lot, however it they had some tips, in English, on the care and feedint of this little beast.


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

mecompco said:


> Bill, you're welcome! BTW, what font did you use? That looks very nice.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael



Thanks Michael.  The font is "Constantia", size 40, in MS Paint.


----------



## kentonjm

Thanks to Bill (in Buena Park) for turning me on to this forum and thread.

I was only talking with my daughter a few days ago and showing her some newly turned pens when she asked if I could engrave them. Then today Bill posted on another forum where we are both members about this 1W NEJE laser engraver. Sometimes things are just meant to be and for the current price of $80 what the heck!

I have scanned through most of the posts in this thread but am specifically interested in answering the following questions. BTW I am a new pen turner but am a quick study.

1. I can see how this works well on lighter woods but does anybody have examples of how it works with the darker ones. I saw mention of folks 'filling' the etching, how is this done and with what?
2. What is the clearance between the table and the laser and what would be the maximum height of an object one can engrave? I was thinking of bottle stoppers, anybody tried this?
3. has anybody tried to create some form of registration jig that would allow for creating larger etchings by moving the work piece say into one of 4 quadrants therefore extending the max to 1024x1024.
4. what is the deepest that somebody has etched into wood?

Thanks in advance and I look forward to meeting you all here at penturners.org.

Jon


----------



## mecompco

kentonjm said:


> Thanks to Bill (in Buena Park) for turning me on to this forum and thread.
> 
> I was only talking with my daughter a few days ago and showing her some newly turned pens when she asked if I could engrave them. Then today Bill posted on another forum where we are both members about this 1W NEJE laser engraver. Sometimes things are just meant to be and for the current price of $80 what the heck!
> 
> I have scanned through most of the posts in this thread but am specifically interested in answering the following questions. BTW I am a new pen turner but am a quick study.
> 
> 1. I can see how this works well on lighter woods but does anybody have examples of how it works with the darker ones. I saw mention of folks 'filling' the etching, how is this done and with what?
> 2. What is the clearance between the table and the laser and what would be the maximum height of an object one can engrave? I was thinking of bottle stoppers, anybody tried this?
> 3. has anybody tried to create some form of registration jig that would allow for creating larger etchings by moving the work piece say into one of 4 quadrants therefore extending the max to 1024x1024.
> 4. what is the deepest that somebody has etched into wood?
> 
> Thanks in advance and I look forward to meeting you all here at penturners.org.
> 
> Jon



Hi Jon. 

1. The laser "prints" black, so any wood that's not black is good. For really dark woods, I think you'd need to fill. If you've gone through the thread, there is an example, and I believe a source for filling. 

2. You could probably do a "squatish" stopper. Mine is down in the shop, but I'll measure the distance from the table to the laser head for you tomorrow. There also may be some maximum height that will still allow you to focus the laser.

3. Not entirely sure what you mean--the max image size of this machine is 500x500 pixels. That is as far as the motors for the X and Y axis will physically go. Also, you are limited as to the size of the workpiece by the frame of the device. You can print larger items that are rectangular (like a pen box), as the ends can overhang the table.

4. It doesn't burn really deep. I'm not sure if I can measure the depth at full burn time, but I'll try for you. I do have a nice Starrett depth mic.

Hope this helps!

Regards,
Michael


----------



## sbwertz

My grandsons have been using this for a couple of days but can't seem to make images larger than about 1 1/4"  Any suggestions?


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

sbwertz said:


> My grandsons have been using this for a couple of days but can't seem to make images larger than about 1 1/4"  Any suggestions?



Sharon, I believe the maximum engraving size of 500x500 pixels works out to 1-3/8 inches square, at least by my measure.  That is the capacity of the machine for a single burn.  To engrave anything larger would require cutting a larger image into multiple 500x500 pixel segments, and then separately burning each portion, and either shifting the workpiece on the carriage table, or recentering the carriage table for each burn, which may be feasible but somewhat complicated.

For example, if you first resize your image to 1000x1000 pixels, you could crop that into 4 quadrants, and do four burns.  At some point, the dimensions of the unit's frame will limit how big a workpiece and how many burns you could do this way.


----------



## TonyL

Just received mine today. Thanks to all that performed that trial-and-error. It is very much appreciated. I am actually looking forward to turning more wood.


----------



## kentonjm

Thanks Michael for your answers thus far. I would appreciate it if you could figure out the height restriction. I was close to pulling the trigger on one of these units but I do have a number of applications where I would desire to etch/print on larger/taller items and have more 'printable' area. The $80 is less of the issue than shop space so if I can get something similar that will do both it may be a better direction for me.

I see on the same website this unit 5500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-332.75 | GearBest.com that has a static table and what seems to be a printable area of approx 5x7. They have a variety of wattage options from 300mW to 5.5W. The 2.5W version is only $160 but going to 5.5 jumps you over $300. Given that most folks here seem to be having fine results with this 1W unit can anybody explain to me what practical usage 5.5 gets me over 2.5?

I also wonder if this unit would be adaptable and strong enough to mount a Bosch Colt router or if not that maybe a dremmel. If so one could get a simple router CNC as well. Thoughts anybody?


----------



## sbwertz

Bill in Buena Park said:


> sbwertz said:
> 
> 
> 
> My grandsons have been using this for a couple of days but can't seem to make images larger than about 1 1/4"  Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharon, I believe the maximum engraving size of 500x500 pixels works out to 1-3/8 inches square, at least by my measure.  That is the capacity of the machine for a single burn.  To engrave anything larger would require cutting a larger image into multiple 500x500 pixel segments, and then separately burning each portion, and either shifting the workpiece on the carriage table, or recentering the carriage table for each burn, which may be feasible but somewhat complicated.
> 
> For example, if you first resize your image to 1000x1000 pixels, you could crop that into 4 quadrants, and do four burns.  At some point, the dimensions of the unit's frame will limit how big a workpiece and how many burns you could do this way.
Click to expand...


Thank you.  I haven't even touched it yet.  I'm sick as a dog and still running a fever, so I just handed it over to the boys.  They are having a great time with it.  I don't know when I will be able to go home...I have a 5 day drive ahead of me, and can't drive in the state I'm in now.


----------



## BRobbins629

kentonjm said:


> I see on the same website this unit 5500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-332.75 | GearBest.com that has a static table and what seems to be a printable area of approx 5x7. They have a variety of wattage options from 300mW to 5.5W. The 2.5W version is only $160 but going to 5.5 jumps you over $300. Given that most folks here seem to be having fine results with this 1W unit can anybody explain to me what practical usage 5.5 gets me over 2.5?
> 
> I also wonder if this unit would be adaptable and strong enough to mount a Bosch Colt router or if not that maybe a dremmel. If so one could get a simple router CNC as well. Thoughts anybody?



I have the 1W unit and for what it is, it seems to work well.  I now am in the process of investigating how to incorporate it, or another laser module onto my CNC.  This will give me more working area as well as the ability to use my radial axis.  In the research I have done, going higher in wattage has two advantages and perhaps one disadvantage.  The higher the wattage, the faster you will be able to engrave and you will be able to cut through more types of material.  At 1W, paper and perhaps cardboard are possible, at 5W, it should be able to cut balsa wood and perhaps some other materials.  The disadvantage is that it might run pretty hot and be a challenge to cool - not something I have actually seen, but still a concern.

Not sure if the gearbest laser will support a router, but if you do want a dual machine, you might consider a CNC for the main machine and run a laser as the alternative.  Not sure how strong the stepper motors are on the larger gearbest machine, but on the small one, they are merely parts from a CD drive.   

I have done some bench scale testing with Mach3 software which controls my CNC and it is very possible to add a laser and control it.  There is some free software for vector design (inkscape) and a free plug in from jtechphotonics for inkscape that will write laser G-code code readable by Mach3 and other control software.  Their site has some good tutorials on how its done.

Will post something on my full conversion as its complete - need a few more parts.


----------



## leehljp

kentonjm said:


> Thanks Michael for your answers thus far...



BTW, Welcome to IAP Jon. 'Bout time you got here - thanks to Bill (in Buena Park), and for getting me back over here too.


----------



## kentonjm

BRobbins629 said:


> At 1W, paper and perhaps cardboard are possible, at 5W, it should be able to cut balsa wood and perhaps some other materials.
> 
> Not sure if the gearbest laser will support a router, but if you do want a dual machine, you might consider a CNC for the main machine and run a laser as the alternative.  Not sure how strong the stepper motors are on the larger gearbest machine, but on the small one, they are merely parts from a CD drive.



I am not really interested in cutting things with the laser so based on your input I would be just as well off with the 2.5 as the 5 if all I really want is the engraving/burning capabilities.

As far as the stepper motors they do look to be beefier than the small unit although I have no domain experience here. Are you able to deduce anything from the many pictures shown at the link? Based on mass alone I would not think that the mass of the laser unit was much different to a dremel so I would guess it could handle that. A small router would be heavier but not sure how to gauge if the motors could cope. The gantry looks to be plenty sturdy enough.

2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-178.92 | GearBest.com


----------



## kentonjm

leehljp said:


> kentonjm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Michael for your answers thus far...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, Welcome to IAP Jon. 'Bout time you got here - thanks to Bill (in Buena Park), and for getting me back over here too.
Click to expand...


Thanks Hank.


----------



## BRobbins629

kentonjm said:


> BRobbins629 said:
> 
> 
> 
> At 1W, paper and perhaps cardboard are possible, at 5W, it should be able to cut balsa wood and perhaps some other materials.
> 
> Not sure if the gearbest laser will support a router, but if you do want a dual machine, you might consider a CNC for the main machine and run a laser as the alternative.  Not sure how strong the stepper motors are on the larger gearbest machine, but on the small one, they are merely parts from a CD drive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not really interested in cutting things with the laser so based on your input I would be just as well off with the 2.5 as the 5 if all I really want is the engraving/burning capabilities.
> 
> As far as the stepper motors they do look to be beefier than the small unit although I have no domain experience here. Are you able to deduce anything from the many pictures shown at the link? Based on mass alone I would not think that the mass of the laser unit was much different to a dremel so I would guess it could handle that. A small router would be heavier but not sure how to gauge if the motors could cope. The gantry looks to be plenty sturdy enough.
> 
> 2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-178.92 | GearBest.com
Click to expand...


Yes, the stepper motors and support should be able to handle a dremel or a Foredom type spindle.  Actually for that price, not a bad deal.  The only thing you will have to work out is how to talk to the control board which may be proprietary.  There are ways around that with a different board, but then you are into wiring, etc. Very doable, but you will have to do some electronics.


----------



## WWorkman

*Security question*

I see that some have said they had to turn off their security software to install the Chinese laser. Being that the Chinese are so adept at writing malware into their installs, how can one be sure that your pc does not get infected. My concern is because I just purchased a new one and I don't want to get any sneaky malware on it. So in the end has anyone had any "known" problems after the install ?


Added:  I was specifically looking at this model which uses Benbox software:

http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_290388.html


----------



## ssalvage

WWorkman said:


> I see that some have said they had to turn off their security software to install the Chinese laser. Being that the Chinese are so adept at writing malware into their installs, how can one be sure that your pc does not get infected. My concern is because I just purchased a new one and I don't want to get any sneaky malware on it. So in the end has anyone had any "known" problems after the install ?
> 
> 
> Added:  I was specifically looking at this model which uses Benbox software:
> 
> 1600mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-169.67 | GearBest.com



This was my concern as well, which is why I opted to go with a really old, air gapped laptop that I had laying around. I'll never have to worry about what may or may not be included in the software. The double bonus is that it now makes the entire system portable as well. :good:

I realize this is not an option for everybody, so I think the next best option is to make sure you have a good AV software running (at all times), and only make an exclusion for the necessary software files. An even safer approach (may be overkill for some) would be to disable your network connection then allow the exclusions only while you are running the software. When you are done, remove the AV exclusions, and then re-enable your network connection.

While I am at it, I'll also mention the critical nature of having backupS of your important data! (yes the last S was capitalized on purpose. you should have (a) backup(s) of your data, and also (a) backup(s) of your backup). I can't begin to tell you how many hearts I've broken over the years because someone got a virus, or had a hard drive crash, or whatever... and they had no backups. Data gone! 

OK, I will get off my soapbox now. Sorry for drifting off topic, but that's what almost 25 years in IT networking & security will do to you. :biggrin:


----------



## duncsuss

ssalvage said:


> I opted to go with a really old, air gapped laptop that I had laying around.



That's what I did too. It was on the net for the length of time it took to download the software installer, then I turned the WiFi off *before* running the installer.

It will not be connected to my home network again -- I'm treating it as if it has been infected with virus/trojan/malware even if it hasn't.


----------



## duncsuss

kentonjm said:


> As far as the stepper motors they do look to be beefier than the small unit although I have no domain experience here ... Based on mass alone I would not think that the mass of the laser unit was much different to a dremel so I would guess it could handle that ...



Remember that a rotary tool generates mechanical forces, so there's more than its mass to consider. You know what happens if you touch a Dremel bit to a workpiece and you aren't holding tight 

There's really no way of knowing whether the gantry and stepper motors will handle those forces without trying it. I hope it works for you -- let us know how it goes :biggrin:


----------



## BRobbins629

duncsuss said:


> kentonjm said:
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the stepper motors they do look to be beefier than the small unit although I have no domain experience here ... Based on mass alone I would not think that the mass of the laser unit was much different to a dremel so I would guess it could handle that ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that a rotary tool generates mechanical forces, so there's more than its mass to consider. You know what happens if you touch a Dremel bit to a workpiece and you aren't holding tight
> 
> There's really no way of knowing whether the gantry and stepper motors will handle those forces without trying it. I hope it works for you -- let us know how it goes :biggrin:
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention you will also need a z axis to do CNC. Another reason to get a CNC and convert to laser for a dual machine.


----------



## kentonjm

BRobbins629 said:


> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to mention you will also need a z axis to do CNC. Another reason to get a CNC and convert to laser for a dual machine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For this specific application I was thinking of having a 'manual' z axis such that one could do relatively simple things such as carved lettering rather than burned. For more complex image carving a working computer controlled z axis would be essential.
> 
> I have accesses to a large 4'x8' CNC rig but its rather overkill for small work. Starting with the $80 pricetag of the small unit that kicked off this thread I am very interested to see what I can achieve on a low budget. If I go for this 5x7 unit I am now at either $160 or $315 depending on the power of the laser I pick. I would guess that the budget CNC rigs are still going to be more than this, do you have any pointers as to where I should look as all the stuff I have seen at retails starts way over $1K.
Click to expand...


----------



## kentonjm

Well I went ahead and ordered the 2.5W version so we will see what we will see


----------



## TonyL

With respect to the 1w (1000mw) engraver, what distant between the head of the laser and surface of the wood do you all maintain? Or is that something that you control with burn time? Thank you.


----------



## mecompco

TonyL said:


> With respect to the 1w (1000mw) engraver, what distant between the head of the laser and surface of the wood do you all maintain? Or is that something that you control with burn time? Thank you.



The physical distance between the bed and the laser head is right about 2". Probably the tallest item I've done is .75" or so (a wooden pen box). IDK if the laser will focus with really tall items. Basically, one focuses the laser for the smallest spot on the item being engraved. I don't think the burn time really cares much about the distance (it's light, after all) but the focus must be more-or-less correct.


----------



## wood-of-1kind

mecompco said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> 
> With respect to the 1w (1000mw) engraver, what distant between the head of the laser and surface of the wood do you all maintain? Or is that something that you control with burn time? Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The physical distance between the bed and the laser head is right about 2". Probably the tallest item I've done is .75" or so (a wooden pen box). IDK if the laser will focus with really tall items. Basically, one focuses the laser for the smallest spot on the item being engraved. I don't think the burn time really cares much about the distance (it's light, after all) but the focus must be more-or-less correct.
Click to expand...


So far the "tallest" item that I have been able to laser with good "clear" results (font) is just under 1 inch. I have been playing with the silver ring both in a clockwise and counter-clockwise but no luck. This small unit has it's limitations but I still maintain that it is a bargain at this price point.


----------



## TonyL

I was very pleased with my first few tries. I hoping you all can answer some questions:
Did load the drivers and application from the SD card or from the website?
Is there a way to adjust the focus of the laser?
Do you where the protective glasses?
Did yours come with an AC adapter (I ordered mine from GearBest)?

Thank you for reading!


----------



## mecompco

TonyL said:


> I was very pleased with my first few tries. I hoping you all can answer some questions:
> Did load the drivers and application from the SD card or from the website?
> Is there a way to adjust the focus of the laser?
> Do you where the protective glasses?
> Did yours come with an AC adapter (I ordered mine from GearBest)?
> 
> Thank you for reading!



Tony, here's my take on your questions:

1. I turned off my AV and ran the software from the micro SD card. Once installed, I turned the AV back on and let it clean the Trojan that it thinks (or really is) there. The software continues to function, and multiple scans with AVG, MalwareBytes, SuperAntiSpyware, etc. come up clean.

2. The focus is adjusted by turning the chrome ring on the laser head.

3. I do not wear them as I can't see the dimmed-down dot to focus with them on. Once the laser is burning, I put something in front of it to block the light--once the novelty wears off, there's really no reason to watch it, anyway.

4. It is USB powered, so no. One could run it off a standard USB charger if one was short of USB ports on the computer.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Stefanino

*Jig for the engraver?*

Hi, I'm using it about two weeks. It's fantastic.  But for me it is difficult to go straight. Has someone built any jig or are using only the rubber bands on the plate of the carver?


----------



## TonyL

Thank you Michael. I watched an unboxing video and it indicated an ac adapter, but I'm fine without it. I did overcome the virus alert problem the same way you did (and I'm using window10 with Nortons AV)  
Thanks for the help with the focusing .  After 6 burns, the novelty has worn off lol. Thank you. 

Stefanino, I have been lucky; mine have been straight. However, I was thinking the same thing. There should be something better than just estimating straightness.  Thanks guys.


----------



## Akula

To get things straight, I took a piece of graph paper and put it on the bed under the rubber bands.  It works ok.

I took two square "chop sticks" LOL  from a leftover meal and use them to keep small items held in place while burning.  I just slide them in/out to whatever I need to hold.



Really, the only issue I have, is sometimes when I send the image to the laser, then use it to check the burn area...when I return it to center, it seems it has moved off the burn area.  That has required me to adjust in my mind where the new burn area will actually be.  I just use the arrows to move it up or down a few spots.  This is a pretty big deal for me as I need the burn area to be spot on.  I might be doing something wrong but a 1/8" in one direction off is important since I'm doing small items that must be centered.  Because of this, I have to check the burn area 3 or 4 times to make sure it has not moved from center.  I can see where this would be a serious flaw if you tried a pen.


----------



## TonyL

*Which font and pitch (character size)?*



Bill in Buena Park said:


> I've been playing with burn depth on the little NEJE, and since I don't fill my engravings on wood pens, I'm liking the burn setting of 75 to produce a nice depth on the engraving.  This is recent Curvado in Olive that I made as a gift for a retiring coworker.  Thanks for looking.
> 
> And thanks again to Michael (the OP) for bringing this little gem to my attention.


 
This is one of the best that I am seen! Which font and pitch did you use please? Did you set the pixels to 500 x 500 (I have not found that to matter so far)? Thank you.


I just noticed that you answered this question. Thank you.

The font is "Constantia", size 40, in MS Paint.


----------



## mecompco

I drew this in Sketchup and printed it. It works pretty well for keeping pens aligned. I use the rubber bands and center the jig on the bed using a machinists rule. I do like the idea of a grid on the bed, and may do that as well.


----------



## Anglesachse

Here`s what I have been trying. The design is based on the "EggBot" from Evil mad scientists.

The Original EggBot: Deluxe Edition

The laser diode (1w) is moved by a stepper motor along the axis of the pen body, which is in turn rotated by a 2nd Stepper.

At the moment I still have software issues, but when it is finished I wit put it as Open Source on the internet.


----------



## Curly

When Marla was getting a local guy to engrave pens I made him a couple barrel holders. The green one was for use flat on the table. The clear was to fit in his rotator. Maybe the green one would work on these lasers. Naturally the engraving is done before assembly. :wink:


----------



## TonyL

First attempt. I was pretty pleased with the exception of engraving more for a lefty. I also  added rubber padding to the table.

Thanks for answering all my questions and experimenting so I didn't have to.
The pitch was 50, the font was Corbel, and burn rate was 52, It was finished with Pens Plus, but I had tested CA on another blank and it worked fine.  I also used the recarving function an another and that worked out well too.


----------



## jttheclockman

Well Tony I guess you are going to add engraving to your signature line


----------



## Stefanino

Thank you TonyL, mecompco and Curly ! Good idea those jigs. I think that the barrel holder is ok for me, but we could improve the precision together with the graph paper as said by Akula on the bed under the rubber band.


----------



## mecompco

Stefanino said:


> Thank you TonyL, mecompco and Curly ! Good idea those jigs. I think that the barrel holder is ok for me, but we could improve the precision together with the graph paper as said by Akula on the bed under the rubber band.



I think you're right! The machinists rule goes down to the 64th, but it is a pain. I think graph paper on the bed would speed up calibration considerably. I will say, though, that one can get pretty close with eyeballing it and using the keyboard to move the preview area as necessary.


----------



## hanau

Stefanino said:


> Thank you TonyL, mecompco and Curly ! Good idea those jigs. I think that the barrel holder is ok for me, but we could improve the precision together with the graph paper as said by Akula on the bed under the rubber band.



Couldn't you just burn the graph lines into the base?


----------



## BRobbins629

Here's a holder I made from 3/8 plywood.  Alignment is just about perfect.  On top, blank sits in groove, rod goes through blank and is secured with bands.  The bottom is routed out to perfectly fit the red table - can't move up, down or sideways.  Although I did this on my CNC, no reason why strips couldn't be glued to the bottom to achieve the same effect.  No need to rubber bands that come with unit.


----------



## Bill in Buena Park

hanau said:


> Stefanino said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you TonyL, mecompco and Curly ! Good idea those jigs. I think that the barrel holder is ok for me, but we could improve the precision together with the graph paper as said by Akula on the bed under the rubber band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't you just burn the graph lines into the base?
Click to expand...


I tried this, and it worked ok, but not great.  The base is plastic and glossy, and I was probably too conservative with the burn time.  I was able to use some black paint as infill for the grid.  I'm thinking of printing a grid on clear, adhesive-backed sheet and putting that on...


----------



## nodrogs

Apologies if this has already been answered but would the 1000 mw version burn deep enough to allow me to fill the engraving afterwards?  I need to do an engraving on a dark coloured wood.


----------



## kentonjm

Received my shipping confirmation from Gear best. It says 7 to 10 days but we will see.


----------



## mecompco

nodrogs said:


> Apologies if this has already been answered but would the 1000 mw version burn deep enough to allow me to fill the engraving afterwards?  I need to do an engraving on a dark coloured wood.



Yes,  there are some examples in this thread.


----------



## nodrogs

Thanks Michael, looking forward to getting this!


----------



## TonyL

The 2.5W is now on sale for $159. The url should show you the flash sale price.

2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com


----------



## mecompco

TonyL said:


> The 2.5W is now on sale for $159. The url should show you the flash sale price.
> 
> 2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com



It looks like quite an erector set of DIY assembly parts, plus sourcing a table. Might be fun to put together. It's funny that all these low powered lasers list pretty much the same materials that can be engraved/cut. I suppose it would be faster, and the size of the table is significantly larger.


----------



## TonyL

I don't want to assemble, but I like the larger table and cutting dimensions. I am going to stay with what I have. when it breaks; I will get the bigger one.


----------



## kentonjm

TonyL said:


> The 2.5W is now on sale for $159. The url should show you the flash sale price.
> 
> 2500mw A5 Mini Laser Engraving Machine-180.67 | GearBest.com



That's the one I ordered, in theory it should be home waiting for me when I get back from my uk trip. I have heard that the build is fairly straight forward and will report on my experience which hopefully concurs with others.


----------



## TonyL

Please do and safe travels.


----------



## TonyL

*Has any installed the software on a  Dell ChromeBook?*

I have a Dell notebook, but not a Chromebook, and I had no problems with my notebook (even with Windows 10). I am asking on behalf of a non-local friend - otherwise, I would just walk/drive over to his home and give it a shot.

Thank you.


Separately, perhaps you have tried the following already. It seems like you can take a photo, remove the color and change the picture temperature and make your own engravable images. I would think I am late to the "party" with this idea. 

Anyone, any experience with the drivers/application on a Chromebook would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you again.


----------



## mecompco

TonyL said:


> I have a Dell notebook, but not a Chromebook, and I had no problems with my notebook (even with Windows 10). I am asking on behalf of a non-local friend - otherwise, I would just walk/drive over to his home and give it a shot.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> Separately, perhaps you have tried the following already. It seems like you can take a photo, remove the color and change the picture temperature and make your own engravable images. I would think I am late to the "party" with this idea.
> 
> Anyone, any experience with the drivers/application on a Chromebook would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thank you again.



Well, you can't really install software on a ChromeBook--it runs Google's "Chromium" OS. All you can really do is Internet based applications. There are some extensions and apps you can install, but it is not going to run Windows applications. If one had had the software on another Windows machine, I guess it might be possible to set up a remote desktop, log into the Windows machine to run the software. I think a better solution would be to find a free/cheap Windows machine and just use that.

I have taken colored or grey scale images and converted them to black and white and engraved them. I used Photoshop Elements.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## TonyL

Thank you Michael


----------



## TonyL

A friend and fellow IAP member ordered the 1 watt engraver and DHL says his shipment is being held until he provides his social security number. He ordered it from GearBest as I did. He is not gong to provide he SS number, but did anyone else get that email with pdf docs attached?


----------



## Akula

I did not...and just how would they know his SS#?


----------



## duncsuss

TonyL said:


> A friend and fellow IAP member ordered the 1 watt engraver and DHL says his shipment is being held until he provides his social security number. He ordered it from GearBest as I did. He is not gong to provide he SS number, but did anyone else get that email with pdf docs attached?



I bought the 1W unit from GearBest -- did not select expedited shipping, but did pay the couple of dollars for insurance (or whatever they called it).

Nobody asked me for my SSN.


----------



## mecompco

TonyL said:


> A friend and fellow IAP member ordered the 1 watt engraver and DHL says his shipment is being held until he provides his social security number. He ordered it from GearBest as I did. He is not gong to provide he SS number, but did anyone else get that email with pdf docs attached?



The order for the laser was the third time I've ordered from Gearbest. No shenanigans of that sort on any of the occasions. Oh, and no emails other than the order confirmation.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## TonyL

Thank you for the responses. The request was from DHL customs clearance in Kentucky. I'm sure it was an error. Thanks again.


----------



## TonyL

Well..according to this one rep at DHL, she has a bunch of them waiting to ship and it is their policy not to ship without the documentation.  I guess I am lucky mine did not ship via DHL. I did order from GB with expedited shipping. Oh well.


----------



## Sylvanite

If DHL believes the shipping documentation is incomplete, it should contact the shipper, not the recipient.  There is no reason why DHL would need your SSN, and no reason for you to give it.  There is a good reason for you _not_ to give it (identity theft).  I recommend contacting Gearbest and informing them that their carrier is refusing to deliver their shipment.  It is Gearbest's responsibility to deliver the product you paid for.  They need to either:
Contact DHL and tell them to deliver your package, or
Ship you a replacement unit via a different carrier.
  This sounds suspiciously like a scam to me.  You might want to call DHL, ask to speak with a manager, and tell them what their employees are doing.



TonyL said:


> Well..according to this one rep at DHL, she has a bunch of them waiting to ship and it is their policy not to ship without the documentation.


----------



## duncsuss

Sylvanite said:


> This sounds suspiciously like a scam to me.  You might want to call DHL, ask to speak with a manager, and tell them what their employees are doing.



It's very important to get a contact number from a different source than any email you believe might be a scam.

Do not click on any links or rely on text content in the email.

Use Google or Yahoo or Bing, find the DHL website that way, and navigate into it until you find the "contact us" information.


----------



## mecompco

I don't recall that ANY of my three orders from Gearbest were sent via DHL. Sounds particularly fishy--I wouldn't offer my SSN, either--what do they need THAT for?

Regards,
Michael


----------



## sbwertz

I'm finally home and feeling good enough to play with the engraver.  (I got bronchitis, sinus infection and conjunctivitis on vacation, so I just watched my two grandsons, aged 11 and 15 as they made all sorts of things with it while I sat and watched and coughed!)  

The only problem we had was they tried to burn on a pen made from very old, very hard, white oak.  It was so hard that it burned only the softer parts of the grain.  It worked beautifully on a red cedar pen, however.  They also made some very nice bookmarks from leather, and some luggage tags from some pre-cut wooden tags. My grandson made a very nice tag for his saxophone case that had the marching band name and logo on one side and his name and phone number on the other.  

My son used his 3D printer to make us a pen rack.  I'll dig it out and post a picture...it is still in my luggage somewhere. The 3D printer is a really cool toy, too!

I think I am going to use some double faced tape to fasten some graph paper to the bed, however.


----------



## sbwertz

My son is fiddling with the idea of mounting a laser on his 3d printer in place of the emitter. It has a working size of 8x10 inches.  I'll be interested to see if he is successful with the experiment.


----------



## jsolie

duncsuss said:


> I bought the 1W unit from GearBest -- did not select expedited shipping, but did pay the couple of dollars for insurance (or whatever they called it).
> 
> Nobody asked me for my SSN.



I'm glad that I went with the insurance.  If you do have to interact with GearBest's customer service, be sure to indicate that you did buy insurance.  That made things go a bit easier with the fiasco I had to go through.


----------



## pianomanpj

TonyL said:


> Well..according to this one rep at DHL, she has a bunch of them waiting to ship and it is their policy not to ship without the documentation.  I guess I am lucky mine did not ship via DHL. I did order from GB with expedited shipping. Oh well.



I have seen a few DHL phishing scams in the past. As suggested before, if you have to contact DHL, get contact information from DHL's website by typing in their URL and do NOT click on any links in the email.


----------



## TonyL

Thank you. All has been taken care of and all is fine. Thank you for your guidance.


----------



## kentonjm

Just got back from my trip to the UK and this was waiting for me. Looks like I have a weekend erector set project. That is if I can be that patient.


----------



## kentonjm

Is everybody here using the Benbox software? Has anybody found any interesting alternatives?


----------



## TonyL

Congratulations on the purchase! There's decent youtube video on assembling.


----------



## Chuck Key

No first hand experience but Inkscape with G-code plugins along with Universal G code Sender looks like an interesting alternative to me.  Would work with OS X which I would need or Winders Tan too.




.


----------



## vtgaryw

*Sizing your graphic file?*

I've set up my new laser, and have successfully run a few test runs.  My question is regarding sizing your file to be able to predict the final size of the engraving.

I'm assuming that since 1) the engraving range is 38mm x 38mm and 2) the max resolution is 500 x 500 pixles, that, for example, if I have an image that is say 250 pixels long by 125 pixels wide it will engrave an image that is 19mm long by 9.5 mm wide?

Just asking because I did one test run that came out a lot smaller than I predicted...

Thanks,

Gary


----------



## Cwalker935

kentonjm said:


> Just got back from my trip to the UK and this was waiting for me. Looks like I have a weekend erector set project. That is if I can be that patient.



I just received a box that looks almost identical to that one.


----------



## Cwalker935

What do I need to connect the small sd card to a sub port?  What is the converter called?


----------



## mecompco

Cwalker935 said:


> What do I need to connect the small sd card to a sub port?  What is the converter called?



You need a micro SD card converter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-micr...=1470491158&sr=8-1&keywords=microsd+converter

If you want to PM me your email address, I can try sending you the .exe file (may have to ZIP it). Some AV or email won't let you open .exe files.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## kentonjm

I got everything running this weekend and after a little experiemenation had some fairly pleasing results. Did not try etching a pen yet but having now got the basic process of registration and image sizing at least partially understood that should not be an issue. here are some examples


----------



## Brian G

Thanks for showing the photos, Jon.  I ordered a 2500 last week.  I'm pretty sure I'll be asking a bunch of questions.


----------



## Cwalker935

Just finished assembling my 2500 w laser, waiting on the SD converter to see if it works.  Not sure if I have the leads plugged into the right ports. Hard to follow that on the video. Hopefully, there will be a wiring schematic with the software.


----------



## kentonjm

Cwalker935 said:


> Just finished assembling my 2500 w laser, waiting on the SD converter to see if it works.  Not sure if I have the leads plugged into the right ports. Hard to follow that on the video. Hopefully, there will be a wiring schematic with the software.



Cody, that looks like the same as mine, where did you buy it? What do you need the SD converter for? if its for software you can download it in 2 mins. If it was from Gearbest then this link is for the software.

http://download.appinthestore.com/201606/EleksLaser software.zip


----------



## Cwalker935

kentonjm said:


> Cwalker935 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished assembling my 2500 w laser, waiting on the SD converter to see if it works.  Not sure if I have the leads plugged into the right ports. Hard to follow that on the video. Hopefully, there will be a wiring schematic with the software.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cody, that looks like the same as mine, where did you buy it? What do you need the SD converter for? if its for software you can download it in 2 mins. If it was from Gearbest then this link is for the software.
> 
> http://download.appinthestore.com/201606/EleksLaser software.zip
Click to expand...


I bought it at gearbest.  Couldn't find a link to the software.

Thanks


----------



## fisherhahn

Finally engraved a couple pens with the new laser. Had some unfortunate dog issues and haven't been doing any woodworking for the last couple months but finally back at it. Made this Thank You pen for our vet, who went above and beyond for us. I'm really happy with it. She cried when we gave it to her and said it was the nicest gift she has ever received. That's a good enough endorsement for me!


----------



## TonyL

Very nice! If it would come assembled, I would buy it. Thanks for the pics and enjoy!


----------



## low_48

Cwalker935 said:


> Just finished assembling my 2500 w laser, waiting on the SD converter to see if it works.  Not sure if I have the leads plugged into the right ports. Hard to follow that on the video. Hopefully, there will be a wiring schematic with the software.
> 
> View attachment 152379



2500 w? I expected to see a real machine! I believe you need to buy a letter, or move a decimal point!


----------



## kentonjm

TonyL said:


> Very nice! If it would come assembled, I would buy it. Thanks for the pics and enjoy!



Tony, the assembly on these machines is really pretty straight forward. basically just a few screws and nuts. Nothing more difficult that some erector set models we did many moons ago ;-)


----------



## sbwertz

On the 1 watt version, does anyone know what the big red button on the top does?  Haven't had the nerve to push it!  (self destruct?)  

So far it has done everything I've asked of it.  I made an ebony pen and "recarved" it once to make it deeper and filled it with silver Rub 'n Buff.  Didn't get a picture because the gal who made the pen needed it for a birthday party that afternoon.

I put a first and last name on it.  My son made me a couple of little pen holders on his 3D printer to allow me to get the pen pieces square every time, so I just rolled the barrel a little after burning the first name and put the last name under it.  Worked fine.  The names were pretty long, and the pen had some taper, so I figured the two line name was a better choice than one long line.


----------



## BRobbins629

One press of the red button starts the preview.  Second press starts engraving.


----------



## keithncsu

Just placed my order for one of these.  Have been watching the price and it dropped to $75 again so I jumped.  "Splurged" for the $10 expedited shipping option that said 3-7 days.  I doubt that is accurate but better than the month + that normal shipping seems to be running.  Can't wait to get this and begin experimenting!

Quick question related to this though.  I know people keep mentioning rub and buff to fill in the engraving for darker woods.  After looking this stuff up, it appears to only come in black, silver, turquoise, copper, and maybe a few other similar colors I'm forgetting.  Is there any way to get custom/additional colors for that same process?


----------



## BRobbins629

keithncsu said:


> Quick question related to this though.  I know people keep mentioning rub and buff to fill in the engraving for darker woods.  After looking this stuff up, it appears to only come in black, silver, turquoise, copper, and maybe a few other similar colors I'm forgetting.  Is there any way to get custom/additional colors for that same process?



Laserbits.com  Pro color fill.  Works better than rub and buff in my opinion.


----------



## keithncsu

Thanks!! I'll check that out!


----------



## liljohn1368

Will the 2500w burn acrylic?


----------



## BRobbins629

liljohn1368 said:


> Will the 2500w burn acrylic?


Won't burn it like wood, but will engrave it.  Will likely need color fill to see it.


----------



## liljohn1368

Thanks Bruce. Im thinking of getting one and I do lots of acrylic duck calls.


----------



## leehljp

QUESTION: Does the Laser engraver discussed here, or any operate with the computer through the USB port? 

I am thinking about an engraver, but I only have laptops (three, two with i7) with USB 2.0/3.0


----------



## kentonjm

Yes Hank it uses the USB port. It is a very basic serial connection.



leehljp said:


> QUESTION: Does the Laser engraver discussed here, or any operate with the computer through the USB port?
> 
> I am thinking about an engraver, but I only have laptops (three, two with i7) with USB 2.0/3.0


----------



## mecompco

leehljp said:


> QUESTION: Does the Laser engraver discussed here, or any operate with the computer through the USB port?
> 
> I am thinking about an engraver, but I only have laptops (three, two with i7) with USB 2.0/3.0



As Jon says, it does use USB, one port for power and one for data. You can use a USB charger for the power, if you're computer is short on ports.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## low_48

liljohn1368 said:


> Will the 2500w burn acrylic?



A 2500w laser will vaporize acrylic. Maybe you are talking about a 2.5w or 2500mw?


----------



## keithncsu

*First attempt!!*

Well after too many days of fighting with the computer I finally got some results!! Not 100% happy with the pen overall but it's more a result of the learning curve/issues I had with monkey wood than the engraving. I tnink the engraving came out better than expected!!

Thanks to Michael for starting this awesome thread and for the emailed software. Lifesaver!


----------



## keithncsu

Here is another engraved pen I just finished up.


----------



## mecompco

keithncsu said:


> Well after too many days of fighting with the computer I finally got some results!! Not 100% happy with the pen overall but it's more a result of the learning curve/issues I had with monkey wood than the engraving. I tnink the engraving came out better than expected!!
> 
> Thanks to Michael for starting this awesome thread and for the emailed software. Lifesaver!



Keith, the engraving looks great! I'm down in the shop turning some pens--just took time out to start the laser again--doing up some wooden 'fridge magnets for sale at upcoming shows.

I think the pens look nice. I'm not a fan of "Fatlines", but if that's what the customer wants, then so be it. 

Oh, and you're welcome for my starting the thread. I'm glad it's helped some folks out. :biggrin:

Regards,
Michael


----------



## keithncsu

I'm typically not a fan of the overly fat ones though I like a little shape.  The monkey wood one turned out too fat but after ruining 5 other pieces my goal was just to finish! Luckily I think I found the trick and can could've gotten it slimmer. But that's part of the learning process!


----------



## Sappheiros

Going up or down in price range/wattage, what does one get really? I'd be interested in being able to engrave/personalize a pen of mine for clients. I see wood does quite well, and I see acrylic has been questionable. Will higher wattage allow acrylic engraving? Does the acrylic just need a filler color? (Sorry if I'm butchering any of the terminology here)... Is this something easy to set up? I've got a Mac, though it can run Windows if needed.


----------



## mecompco

Sappheiros said:


> Going up or down in price range/wattage, what does one get really? I'd be interested in being able to engrave/personalize a pen of mine for clients. I see wood does quite well, and I see acrylic has been questionable. Will higher wattage allow acrylic engraving? Does the acrylic just need a filler color? (Sorry if I'm butchering any of the terminology here)... Is this something easy to set up? I've got a Mac, though it can run Windows if needed.



Supposedly the 2.5W models will engrave acrylic, though you have to use a filler. The 1W, which I have, will not. I don't see a point to going with any of the ones under 1W, not much price difference. I'd love to have a 40W, but that is a big price jump, especially if you factor in all the upgrades.

The 1W NEJE is very easy to set up. The software is for Windows. The engraver uses two USB ports, one for power and one for data. It really shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes to unbox it and get it up and running.

I think an additional advantage of the higher wattage ones is that one can engrave faster, and everyone knows faster is better! 

If you don't have your heart set on engraving acrylic, I think the 1W is a very good deal. I've seen it down around $75.00 as of late.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## Sappheiros

Thanks, Michael!


----------



## BRobbins629

Sappheiros said:


> Going up or down in price range/wattage, what does one get really? I'd be interested in being able to engrave/personalize a pen of mine for clients. I see wood does quite well, and I see acrylic has been questionable. Will higher wattage allow acrylic engraving? Does the acrylic just need a filler color? (Sorry if I'm butchering any of the terminology here)... Is this something easy to set up? I've got a Mac, though it can run Windows if needed.


From what I can tell with my 2watt laser, you should be able to engrave plastics with a 1watt.  The problem is control of the software.  With the NEJE, you can control the power, but I don't think the speed.  If you could get control of the software, I think even the 1watt would engrave acrylics.  I've been able to engrave acrylics with the 2watt, even at 35% of its power by going slow.


----------



## keithncsu

With that logic why couldn't you just max out the burn time and just keep hitting the recarve button until it works? Or a lesser burn time and several recarves if that is better. Of course without moving the blank so that it stays in the same spot. 

I may try that on a cutoff tomorrow.


----------



## BRobbins629

keithncsu said:


> With that logic why couldn't you just max out the burn time and just keep hitting the recarve button until it works? Or a lesser burn time and several recarves if that is better. Of course without moving the blank so that it stays in the same spot.
> 
> I may try that on a cutoff tomorrow.


one test is worth a thousand opinions. It may just work.  Darker colors will probably work better than light.


----------



## SSobel

mecompco said:


> jsolie said:
> 
> 
> 
> So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet?  Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just performed an experiment. Put an un-turned PR blank (PR from Woodnwhimsies) flat-side up in the engraver. At a burn speed of 60, which is plenty for wood, there were no results visible and the burn took about three minutes.
> 
> I then bumped the burn time all the way up. It took over 17 minutes. Yes, there is a very slight impression in the PR. Unless you know what it issupposed to be, you would probably be unable to read it.
> 
> So, I would say "no", 1W is not enough to engrave PR. I suspect Alumilite, acrylic, etc. would also not work.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...

 
Michael,

I have an idea for you if you're willing to try...The reason the laser won't penetrate the PR is because it's a reflective surface. If you have a hunk of something laying around, hit it with 400 grit to knock of the "polished look" and try again.


----------



## mecompco

SSobel said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jsolie said:
> 
> 
> 
> So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet?  Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just performed an experiment. Put an un-turned PR blank (PR from Woodnwhimsies) flat-side up in the engraver. At a burn speed of 60, which is plenty for wood, there were no results visible and the burn took about three minutes.
> 
> I then bumped the burn time all the way up. It took over 17 minutes. Yes, there is a very slight impression in the PR. Unless you know what it issupposed to be, you would probably be unable to read it.
> 
> So, I would say "no", 1W is not enough to engrave PR. I suspect Alumilite, acrylic, etc. would also not work.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Michael,
> 
> I have an idea for you if you're willing to try...The reason the laser won't penetrate the PR is because it's a reflective surface. If you have a hunk of something laying around, hit it with 400 grit to knock of the "polished look" and try again.
Click to expand...


Great idea, as long as it burns deep enough to survive the sanding afterwards. Will give it a shot.


----------



## Jim Heaton

I ordered the laser from Gearbest.com on July 28.  It was shipped by DHL.  However there was a Customs problem and needed a FDA form completed.  I spoke with a DHL Customs clerk with whom we decided to request the shipper complete the form.  Today, after receiving no other information from DHL or Gearbest.com, I called DHL who informed me that the shipper ordered the package destroyed.  Anyone Else have this problem?


----------



## keithncsu

Afraid I can't help with the question above. 

However wanted to follow-up on my test of the acrylic mentioned above. It didn't work. Tried a burn time of 100 then immediately redid it at 240. Interestingly enough the black parts of the acrylic burned pretty deep. But the red sections didn't. It was almost like it bubbled up. Turned white in color so it was visible.


----------



## mecompco

Jim Heaton said:


> I ordered the laser from Gearbest.com on July 28.  It was shipped by DHL.  However there was a Customs problem and needed a FDA form completed.  I spoke with a DHL Customs clerk with whom we decided to request the shipper complete the form.  Today, after receiving no other information from DHL or Gearbest.com, I called DHL who informed me that the shipper ordered the package destroyed.  Anyone Else have this problem?



Nope. I've ordered three separate times from Gearbest with no issues. I would contact them.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

keithncsu said:


> Afraid I can't help with the question above.
> 
> However wanted to follow-up on my test of the acrylic mentioned above. It didn't work. Tried a burn time of 100 then immediately redid it at 240. Interestingly enough the black parts of the acrylic burned pretty deep. But the red sections didn't. It was almost like it bubbled up. Turned white in color so it was visible.



I think I recall someone saying you could use some sort of coloring on the acrylic--if it burned the dark area of the acrylic, it must have been reflecting off from the bright areas.


----------



## keithncsu

mecompco said:


> keithncsu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Afraid I can't help with the question above.
> 
> However wanted to follow-up on my test of the acrylic mentioned above. It didn't work. Tried a burn time of 100 then immediately redid it at 240. Interestingly enough the black parts of the acrylic burned pretty deep. But the red sections didn't. It was almost like it bubbled up. Turned white in color so it was visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I recall someone saying you could use some sort of coloring on the acrylic--if it burned the dark area of the acrylic, it must have been reflecting off from the bright areas.
Click to expand...


I was also burning on the shiny side. Wonder if I burned on the cut/rough edge if that would make a difference. May be a better representation of the final burn surface. Could micro mesh after burning. May try that next week when I get back from the beach.


----------



## LR9788

Thanks to all of you I know have a laser engraver headed my way. I just hope that I can make the money back before my wife finds out.


----------



## SteveG

LR9788 said:


> Thanks to all of you I know have a laser engraver headed my way. I just hope that I can make the money back before my wife finds out.



Try this:

(In your most sincere voice and facial expression possible)  Gee, honey, it followed me home. Can I keep it? :redface:


----------



## mecompco

*Crapped out!*

Yup, the NEJE has gone t#&s up. Appears to be working, but only a very, very faint burn even at maximum time. Now I guess we'll see how good Gearbest's warranty service is. 

Oh well, I've been eyeing that 40W job....

Regards,
Michael


----------



## keithncsu

Uh oh. Let's hope the dominoes don't start falling  for the other orders that went after yours! Keep us posted!


----------



## mecompco

keithncsu said:


> Uh oh. Let's hope the dominoes don't start falling  for the other orders that went after yours! Keep us posted!



Will do! I really haven't put that many hours on it. I did do about 50-60 images on 1.5" wooden circles making 'fridge magnets for sale at upcoming shows and it worked fine. A few days later, went to engrave a pen barrel and nothing. Just spent some time messing with it again and even at the max 240 burn time, almost nothing. It looks and sounds like it is working, but no smoke. I'm thinking the laser diode has pooched. 

If GB won't step up and replace it, I'm sure one can source a diode and change it. That will be Plan B. Plan C is a 40W (now sneak THAT past the Missus!).

Will keep everyone informed.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## LR9788

Great. A Day after I put in my order!

Hopefully they remedy your problem quickly


----------



## olsenla

Hi, mine developed the same symptoms as yours after a few uses---but it was entirely my fault. I was so excited to try it that I was using it in my garage and the temperature was over 110°F and I hadn't got a fan yet to blow across the heat sink. Anyway, I found a replacement laser (chrome tube with the diode in it) on eBay for $21.00. All is good now. Weather cooled off, fan helps with smoke and heat. Laser works great!

Larry


----------



## mecompco

olsenla said:


> Hi, mine developed the same symptoms as yours after a few uses---but it was entirely my fault. I was so excited to try it that I was using it in my garage and the temperature was over 110°F and I hadn't got a fan yet to blow across the heat sink. Anyway, I found a replacement laser (chrome tube with the diode in it) on eBay for $21.00. All is good now. Weather cooled off, fan helps with smoke and heat. Laser works great!
> 
> Larry



I DID burn those 'fridge magnets pretty much one right after another--I may have gotten it too hot, so that makes sense. Do you have the link for the eBay diode? Wondering if one could drop a 2.5W in there? 

I guess the lesson is to give this time to cool rather than trying to do a production run of something.


----------



## mecompco

LR9788 said:


> Great. A Day after I put in my order!
> 
> Hopefully they remedy your problem quickly



I wouldn't worry too much--I'm thinking now that I just ran it too hard. It was fine until I did a lot of burning one after another.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## duncsuss

mecompco said:


> Wondering if one could drop a 2.5W in there



I'm sure you could find one that physically fits into the space, but that doesn't automatically mean it's a good idea.

A higher wattage laser diode requires more Amps -- which requires a controller circuit capable of delivering those additional Amps.

If the controller circuit is designed well, it will limit the current to something below its own burn-out limit -- but then you won't be getting any benefit from having a diode capable of higher power (but only running at 40% of its capacity.)


----------



## olsenla

This is the link for the one I got (1000mw):
Neje DK 8 KZ 1000mW High Power Violet Light Laser Head for ENGRAVER Printer | eBay

Larry


----------



## PapaTim

mecompco said:


> I did do about 50-60 images on 1.5" wooden circles making 'fridge magnets for sale at upcoming shows and it worked fine.
> Regards,
> Michael


 
A quick hijack. Are you using the rare earth magnets on those or the magnetic sheet material? I checked the "other things we make" section but it looks like you hadn't shared them there yet.

Sorry to hear about the diode burnout, hopefully GB will make it right.


----------



## mecompco

PapaTim said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did do about 50-60 images on 1.5" wooden circles making 'fridge magnets for sale at upcoming shows and it worked fine.
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick hijack. Are you using the rare earth magnets on those or the magnetic sheet material? I checked the "other things we make" section but it looks like you hadn't shared them there yet.
> 
> Sorry to hear about the diode burnout, hopefully GB will make it right.
Click to expand...


I went cheap on the magnets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QGZ6Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They will probably hold one or two sheets of paper, but they aren't that strong. I made my circles more-or-less as decorations. 

I used these wooden circles. They engrave very nicely:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008K1QSOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mecompco

So after 45 days have expired, the options for a defective NEJE from Gearbest are:

1. Send it back to China on your own dime and they will repair it.
2. Keep it as-is and they will give you a $15.00 credit on your account.
3. Keep it as-is and they will sell you a new unit for $60.00.

I decided to spend the $21.95 and order a replacement head from the eBay link above. And I will take GB up on their $15.00 offer.

I have learned my lesson regarding the duty cycle of these devices! I'm thinking I'll rig up a little muffin fan or something for cooling when I get it back in working order.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## southernclay

That's not too bad overall, glad that they at least have some support. Thanks for all of the info on this thread.

DIY Violet Laser Engraver-234.85 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

Has anyone ordered this one? I like the larger size for doing larger items, I would assume it would work just fine on pens as well with some sort of holder. If anyone has one please chime in.......trigger finger is getting itchy on this! : )


----------



## Fordwakeman

olsenla said:


> This is the link for the one I got (1000mw):
> Neje DK 8 KZ 1000mW High Power Violet Light Laser Head for ENGRAVER Printer | eBay
> 
> Larry



how is it working for you?


----------



## olsenla

It's working great. The small desk fan really helps to keep everything cool. 

Larry


----------



## mecompco

olsenla said:


> It's working great. The small desk fan really helps to keep everything cool.
> 
> Larry



Larry, how long did it take to arrive? I know shipping from China can be hit or miss. Hoping mine will arrive in a somewhat timely fashion. Thanks!

Regards,
Michael


----------



## TonyL

southernclay said:


> That's not too bad overall, glad that they at least have some support. Thanks for all of the info on this thread.
> 
> DIY Violet Laser Engraver-234.85 Online Shopping| GearBest.com
> 
> Has anyone ordered this one? I like the larger size for doing larger items, I would assume it would work just fine on pens as well with some sort of holder. If anyone has one please chime in.......trigger finger is getting itchy on this! : )


 
I was thinking the same Warren..I just don't feel like assembling it.


----------



## southernclay

TonyL said:


> I was thinking the same Warren..I just don't feel like assembling it.



They have a great assembly video if you're Russian! ; )


----------



## duncsuss

mecompco said:


> olsenla said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's working great. The small desk fan really helps to keep everything cool.
> 
> Larry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larry, how long did it take to arrive? I know shipping from China can be hit or miss. Hoping mine will arrive in a somewhat timely fashion. Thanks!
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Michael -- if you have time pressure to get some stuff done, I can lend you my engraver (it's the 1W -- sorry, 1000mW  -- version like yours.)

I don't know what the postage will cost, but it should get to you fairly quickly given you are just a couple of hours drive from me.


----------



## TonyL

southernclay said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking the same Warren..I just don't feel like assembling it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a great assembly video if you're Russian! ; )
Click to expand...


That is funny one. But after I watched 2 videos I really didn't want to assemble it. Laugh out loud.


----------



## olsenla

mecompco said:


> olsenla said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's working great. The small desk fan really helps to keep everything cool.
> 
> Larry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larry, how long did it take to arrive? I know shipping from China can be hit or miss. Hoping mine will arrive in a somewhat timely fashion. Thanks!
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Mike,

I ordered the replacement 9 Aug and it was delivered 15 Aug. Pretty quick considering where I live 

Larry


----------



## mecompco

olsenla said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> olsenla said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's working great. The small desk fan really helps to keep everything cool.
> 
> Larry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larry, how long did it take to arrive? I know shipping from China can be hit or miss. Hoping mine will arrive in a somewhat timely fashion. Thanks!
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I ordered the replacement 9 Aug and it was delivered 15 Aug. Pretty quick considering where I live
> 
> Larry
Click to expand...


Six days! That is really good, I am hoping for two weeks or less. :biggrin:


----------



## TonyL

Mine arrived in 7 days.


----------



## nodrogs

I'm afraid to report that, like Michael, my Neje diode has also burned out!  Only had it 2 months, probably done around 60-70 engravings with it, pretty much all at low settings.  Had a desk fan blowing on it when in use.  When doing batches it would have been burning for 5 mins then idle for 5 mins.  Manual states using it continuously for up to 1 hour at a time so I'll have to remember that.

I ended up getting a replacement from Amazon from a local source as I needed it to get a few jobs finished up.  Waiting to hear what Gearbest are going to offer me.


----------



## mecompco

nodrogs said:


> I'm afraid to report that, like Michael, my Neje diode has also burned out!  Only had it 2 months, probably done around 60-70 engravings with it, pretty much all at low settings.  Had a desk fan blowing on it when in use.  When doing batches it would have been burning for 5 mins then idle for 5 mins.  Manual states using it continuously for up to 1 hour at a time so I'll have to remember that.
> 
> I ended up getting a replacement from Amazon from a local source as I needed it to get a few jobs finished up.  Waiting to hear what Gearbest are going to offer me.



Yeah, I probably ran it for a good hour straight, at around 35 burn time, with a minute or two between burns. I've learned my lesson and won't do that again. Hoping the new diode arrives soon.


----------



## mecompco

Update: the replacement diode arrived in a timely fashion (well, at least timely for China), and the NEJE is back in service. Next project is to rummage through my computer junk and attach a nice fan to the chassis and rig up a power supply. That should help with the smoke and keep the diode from cooking itself again.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## CREID

mecompco said:


> Update: the replacement diode arrived in a timely fashion (well, at least timely for China), and the NEJE is back in service. Next project is to rummage through my computer junk and attach a nice fan to the chassis and rig up a power supply. That should help with the smoke and keep the diode from cooking itself again.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael



Keep us posted on how things go. I would like to eventually get into the laser thing, but can't right now.


----------



## LR9788

Still waiting for mine to arrive. Apparently it's taking its sweet time crossing the ocean


----------



## eharri446

I ordered this engraver last night:  DIY Violet Laser Engraver-234.85 Online Shopping| GearBest.com.  I watched a YOUTUBE video on a guy putting it, or one like it, together in under thirty minutes. It appears fairly straight forward to assemble. I will update this post once I get it and have time to assemble it. 

I did see some reviews where there were issues with the software that has to be downloaded. Something about having a virus. Since I have a Dell WINBOOK that is just laying around without any anti-virus software on it, I will use it to download the software then put it on a USB memory stick and turn my ESET anti-virus on my main PC loose on it to see if there really is a virus.

The shipping was very reasonable at only $8.36 for 3 to 7 day shipping. Also added insurance for another $5.70.


----------



## mecompco

eharri446 said:


> I ordered this engraver last night:  DIY Violet Laser Engraver-234.85 Online Shopping| GearBest.com.  I watched a YOUTUBE video on a guy putting it, or one like it, together in under thirty minutes. It appears fairly straight forward to assemble. I will update this post once I get it and have time to assemble it.
> 
> I did see some reviews where there were issues with the software that has to be downloaded. Something about having a virus. Since I have a Dell WINBOOK that is just laying around without any anti-virus software on it, I will use it to download the software then put it on a USB memory stick and turn my ESET anti-virus on my main PC loose on it to see if there really is a virus.
> 
> The shipping was very reasonable at only $8.36 for 3 to 7 day shipping. Also added insurance for another $5.70.



I like the size of that one, but the price is half way towards the big 40W job (which I think is going to by my next one).


----------



## eharri446

As I stated in me previous post, I ordered the kit for the 2500mw laser from GearBest and choose to have it shipped vi DHL for $8.36. Now I am receiving emails from them saying that they can no longer ship via DHL and that I will haave to go by EMS and that it will cost me an extra $52.3. I have asked them is it $5.23 or $52.30 and they have not responded to me with a clarification.

Has anyone else had any issues with them changing the shipping costs after you paid for the order?

I used PayPal to pay the order and if I can not get an answer about the increased shipping costs I will file a complaint with PayPal and request a refund for the cost.


----------



## TonyL

Sorry..Edwin. I was writing about the wrong laser. My apologies.


My good friend and fellow penturner was asked by DHL to provide his ss# because the box was marked "laser". This is not the same issue, but indicative of issues with DHL and that product. He and another friend of mine purchased theirs from Amazon at the higher price (which appears to include the higher shipping cost).

https://www.amazon.com/Skert-Engrav...8&qid=1475757970&sr=8-9&keywords=1000mw+laser


----------



## mecompco

I've not had any shipping issues w/Gearbest, other than it taking a while and them never updating the tracking info. I've ordered from them four times now, though only once for a dreadfully hazardous LASER.


----------



## eharri446

I was looking at other DIY 2500mw laser engraver kits and found one that is also a CNC machine. It has both the CNC router and an interchangeable laser head. It was selling on eBay for $299 with $99 shipping. If this deal falls through, then I may try this one.

Here is the URL: DIY Mini 2500mW Laser ENGRAVER 3 Axis CNC Router Kit Desktop PCB Milling Machine | eBay


----------



## LR9788

Over a month after ordering my laser it arrived. Turned out decently well for the first burn out of the box! Just need to figure out how to make the image a little bigger. Any ideas?


----------



## Skie_M

I would simply try to scale the image larger before "printing" ...


----------



## LR9788

Skie_M said:


> I would simply try to scale the image larger before "printing" ...





Tips for doing that?


----------



## Skie_M

I don't have a laser engraver, myself .... but from what I can tell, the programs that are used for plotting the CNC cuts are similar to the type that is used for cutting lino or vinyl lettering in the painting business, and were compatible with Corel Draw and some CAD programs.  In order to change the finished size, you changed the scale of the image within the program.

I would look for a setting in "print settings" or something similar, and set the "page size" to your desired work area and look for an option to "scale image to page size"...  I'ld also definitely look for a feature like "print preview" to show me the approximate position on the "page" and the size of the image in relation to the "page" before I committed to "printing".


Also did a quick search online for the search string "how to resize image for laser engraver" and came up with this PDF: Preparing Photos for Laser Engraving.  Enjoy!


----------



## mecompco

LR9788 said:


> Over a month after ordering my laser it arrived. Turned out decently well for the first burn out of the box! Just need to figure out how to make the image a little bigger. Any ideas?



What are you using for a photo editor? The max size of an image for the NEJE is 500 pixels x 500 pixels. I usually use Photoshop Elements and/or Lucid Press to create an image, then drop it into Paint with a canvas size of 500x500. Then you can re-size the image to fill the space as much as possible. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## LR9788

Michael,
Thats exactly what I was looking for! 

Thanks,
Luke


----------



## mecompco

LR9788 said:


> Michael,
> Thats exactly what I was looking for!
> 
> Thanks,
> Luke



You're welcome! Do show us what you do with the engraver. I've sold pen boxes with my engravings and now I'm having good luck selling Comfort pens (using PSI's pre-drilled Bamboo blanks) with engravings and a friction polish. Quick to make, and they are selling at $29.95.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## LR9788

I finally got a chance to try my logo on a walnut slimline that was my first ever pen I made. 

Question: has anyone tried applying CA over an engraving?


----------



## Skie_M

LR9788 said:


> I finally got a chance to try my logo on a walnut slimline that was my first ever pen I made.
> 
> Question: has anyone tried applying CA over an engraving?



CA should work just fine over an engraving ... works great over decals too!


----------



## mecompco

LR9788 said:


> I finally got a chance to try my logo on a walnut slimline that was my first ever pen I made.
> 
> Question: has anyone tried applying CA over an engraving?



Very nice. On my engraved pens, I'm usually doing a Myland's friction polish finish. I put the sanding sealer on, smooth it with 0000 steel wool, then engrave it. Next, the friction polish goes on. Makes a nice finish, and quickly, to  boot. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## PapaTim

Here's a close up of a seam ripper I did on white oak. 5 coats of CA, lasered on my K40, then 4 more coats of CA after engraving.


----------



## eduardomachado

Weres the best place to get the Neje Dk8 pro


----------



## wood-of-1kind

eduardomachado said:


> Weres the best place to get the Neje Dk8 pro



WWW.GEARBEST.COM


----------



## mecompco

wood-of-1kind said:


> eduardomachado said:
> 
> 
> 
> Weres the best place to get the Neje Dk8 pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GearBest: Online Shopping - Best Gear at Best Prices
Click to expand...


Yup, and I highly recommend laying down the extra 7 or 8 bucks for "expedited" shipping. Unless, of course, you are VERY patient. :biggrin:

Regards,
Michael


----------



## LR9788

mecompco said:


> wood-of-1kind said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eduardomachado said:
> 
> 
> 
> Weres the best place to get the Neje Dk8 pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GearBest: Online Shopping - Best Gear at Best Prices
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yup, and I highly recommend laying down the extra 7 or 8 bucks for "expedited" shipping. Unless, of course, you are VERY patient. :biggrin:
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


Agree 100% I chose to not pay the $8 and it took 6 weeks and PayPal had to get involved


----------



## keithncsu

I actually paid the even couple extra for DHL expedited and had mine in about 5 days.


----------



## leehljp

mecompco said:


> LR9788 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Over a month after ordering my laser it arrived. Turned out decently well for the first burn out of the box! Just need to figure out how to make the image a little bigger. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using for a photo editor? The max size of an image for the NEJE is 500 pixels x 500 pixels. I usually use Photoshop Elements and/or Lucid Press to create an image, then drop it into Paint with a canvas size of 500x500. Then you can re-size the image to fill the space as much as possible.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
Click to expand...


QUESTION: 500 pixels by 500 pixels - What is the resolution of the 500 x 500? I open Photoshop and created a 500 x 500 pixel blank square, filled with black to print out. BUT I can make the 500 x 500 either 72 DPI or 300 DPI or other.
The 300 DPI 500 pixel printed at about 7 inches by 7 inches. 
The 72 DPI printed at about 2 x 2.
Both were 500 x 500 pixel.

What am I missing or confusing here. 
How big is a "pixel" as far as the laser is concerned?
How fine of a DPI can each pixel be defined in burning/etching?

Seeing the burns here, They are definitely higher resolution that 72 DPI.


----------



## duncsuss

leehljp said:


> QUESTION: 500 pixels by 500 pixels - What is the resolution of the 500 x 500?



The 500 pixels are fixed size and they fill the maximum engraving area (which I believe is 32mm or about 1.25", something like that -- it's in the specifications.)

There is no point at all futzing with the "dpi" -- it's meaningless in this context.


----------



## mecompco

leehljp said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LR9788 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Over a month after ordering my laser it arrived. Turned out decently well for the first burn out of the box! Just need to figure out how to make the image a little bigger. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using for a photo editor? The max size of an image for the NEJE is 500 pixels x 500 pixels. I usually use Photoshop Elements and/or Lucid Press to create an image, then drop it into Paint with a canvas size of 500x500. Then you can re-size the image to fill the space as much as possible.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> QUESTION: 500 pixels by 500 pixels - What is the resolution of the 500 x 500? I open Photoshop and created a 500 x 500 pixel blank square, filled with black to print out. BUT I can make the 500 x 500 either 72 DPI or 300 DPI or other.
> The 300 DPI 500 pixel printed at about 7 inches by 7 inches.
> The 72 DPI printed at about 2 x 2.
> Both were 500 x 500 pixel.
> 
> What am I missing or confusing here.
> How big is a "pixel" as far as the laser is concerned?
> How fine of a DPI can each pixel be defined in burning/etching?
> 
> Seeing the burns here, They are definitely higher resolution that 72 DPI.
Click to expand...


Hank, I just opened Paint and with a canvas size of 500x500 pixels I drew a box around the edges and sent it to the laser. The preview shows it is about a 2"x2" box, so I think your 72dpi estimate is correct. Really, 72 looks pretty good on a web page, so IDK why it wouldn't look OK on the small area the NEJE laser can engrave. Of course, for larger prints, it wouldn't be at all acceptable.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## leehljp

Thanks Duncan and Michael.

I appreciate the quick responses.

I meant to add some background, but LOML had me help with her medicare changes! 

I got into graphics primarily through Photoshop back in the early '90s. As expensive as it was, I upgraded every other upgrade. That said, it did not take long for me to recognize 72 DPI as screen images showing up as sharp as 300 on print, and I did both. I used to be able to translate metric and imperial on the fly. I could (still can) convert screen view vs hard print needs on the fly and knew the correlation between them, and what size (inch or mm) a 72 dpi screen resolution would print at a nice print. EXample: an approximately 12 inch photo on screen (at 72 dpi) will PRINT just as sharp at 3 inches, but the resolution must change to approx 300 dpi at 3 inches. This has never been a problem for me to grasp, and has been my graphics/photo world for the past 25 years.

However, "pixel" count never entered in to the fray for me, because I haven't learned how it corresponds to actual "print" or now engraving.


----------



## duncsuss

Apple and Adobe have a lot to answer for!

It seems they never bothered to explain the fundamental difference between three things: a pixel (which is a unit of measure within an image file), a dot (which is a unit of measure of the physical display mechanism, be it a computer monitor or a printer), and a half-tone dot, or dot-screen, which is a method of clustering dots to create the illusion of an image with more tonal variation than the physical mechanism is capable of producing.


----------



## eduardomachado

Ordered from here, will have it in 3 days, not a patien guy here  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DG5JWAE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## mecompco

eduardomachado said:


> Ordered from here, will have it in 3 days, not a patien guy here  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DG5JWAE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



That's the way to go, if you can't wait! Looks like they slapped a different badge on it, but it is the NEJE. Let us know how you make out.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## keithncsu

My laser just pooped out too.... Probably only engraved about 25 pens at most. Never more than 3 back to back and always with a fan.  But the fan had always been about 3 ft away blowing towards the laser on high. Wondering if it was too far away. 

Either way, just purchased the replacement diode linked several pages back. Definitely going to set me back as I have about 20 pens to engrave for a friend and eBay says delivery is not until Thanksgiving. Looks to be a simple plug and play swap so hopefully no issues.


----------



## eduardomachado

How do I center the laser on the pen????   Tried all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mecompco

keithncsu said:


> My laser just pooped out too.... Probably only engraved about 25 pens at most. Never more than 3 back to back and always with a fan.  But the fan had always been about 3 ft away blowing towards the laser on high. Wondering if it was too far away.
> 
> Either way, just purchased the replacement diode linked several pages back. Definitely going to set me back as I have about 20 pens to engrave for a friend and eBay says delivery is not until Thanksgiving. Looks to be a simple plug and play swap so hopefully no issues.



My replacement diode only took a few days to arrive, hopefully yours does, too. I had to pull the back off the unit (have never bothered to put it back on), then take the two hex head screws out of the heatsink (they are SOFT, so try not to muck up the heads like I did) and the diode pulls up and out. Just slide the new one in, tighten the screws, plug the connector in and it's ready to go.

Michael


----------



## mecompco

eduardomachado said:


> How do I center the laser on the pen????   Tried all
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Attach barrel to table w/elastics, eyeball alignment as best you can. Focus the laser to the smallest dot you can get. Over on the right side of the software, there is a check box for Use Keyboard. Check it, then you can use the keyboard arrow keys for fine alignment. I usually start by clicking the Center of Image button. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## eduardomachado

So I hit center and can use it as the "center" and aling the piece that way?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eduardomachado

Ahhhh so simple!! Thanks!!!!


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## keithncsu

Michael, can you snap a picture of your fan set up? I thought a gentle breeze in the direction of the laser was enough. Seems like I may need something a bit more direct. I haven't used mine nearly as much as yall so it must be an airflow thing. Or a crappy bad part from China thing haha.


----------



## mecompco

keithncsu said:


> Michael, can you snap a picture of your fan set up? I thought a gentle breeze in the direction of the laser was enough. Seems like I may need something a bit more direct. I haven't used mine nearly as much as yall so it must be an airflow thing. Or a crappy bad part from China thing haha.



Honestly, I haven't got around to hooking it up yet. I have a little muffin fan out of a PC that my plan is to mount to the top of the unit, blowing down. I'm thinking that should dissipate the smoke and help keep the heatsink cool. 

I have done a few pen barrels since changing the diode, but haven't stressed it like I did making the fridge' magnets one right after the other. And yes, it might just be the luck of the draw on a chintzy Chinese component!

Regards,
Michael


----------



## TonyL

I merely point the fan in the general direction of the diode (angled-up toward the diode). I let the fan run, during and a few minutes after engraving. I don't do much heavy and long engraving though, so I have no idea if it really helps....I guess it doesn't hurt.


----------



## eduardomachado

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mecompco

eduardomachado said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Looking good! You're putting that right to work.

I engrave my barrels before assembly so I can put some finish on them. I've had good luck sanding, then sealing the wood w/Myland's sanding sealer, polish with 0000, do the engraving, then apply the friction polish.


----------



## eduardomachado

I engraved before but just added a little polish by hand,
Next time I will turn, sand and engrave then I will apply finish...   still learning all at the same time lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eduardomachado

https://vimeo.com/191837727


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## sbwertz

My grandsons had so much fin with this last summer, that I just ordered one for a Christmas present.  I paid $99 for mine, and now they have a 1.5 watt one for the same price, so I ordered it.  They say it will burn plastics.  Since the boys got a 3d printer for Christmas last year (I had fun with THAT last summer!) they should be able to engrave on printed items.  I'll keep you posted on what it can do.

Mine has been absolutely sterling.  I use it almost every day at the center for the blind and it has had absolutely no problems.


----------



## keithncsu

If it indeed does burn plastic I have a feeling a bunch will then fly off the shelves!!


----------



## sbwertz

I just bought a little 6" table fan from walmart and set it on the desk by the laser, about six inches or so away.  Works fine, and makes a great desk fan when not in use on the laser.  

I carry my laser back and forth to the Center for the blind.  I just put the laser and all it's "kit" in a small cardboard box that will fit in one of my canvas bags and stand the laptop (an old XP Dell) on edge next to the box.  Mouse and pad and laptop power cord go in with the laser.  Takes about two minutes to set up and take down.

I've also made bookmarks with some scrap leather I had running around.  Worked fine.  (keep burn times short or the leather will "pucker")

I do a CA finish on the pens at the center, and burn after finishing.  On dark wood I then rub in a little "Rub N Buff" to fill the engraving so it shows up.  If you have a good hard finish on the pen, the excess will wipe right off.


----------



## sbwertz

My friend here in Phoenix just ordered one of the 1.5 watt engravers.  I get to help her set it up and I will report on it's plastic burning ability.  She turns a lot of corian, so that is what we will test it on first.


----------



## sbwertz

A tip:  If you are not sure how well a particular blank will burn, test your monogram/logo on the unturned blank before turning.  It will all turn off when you make the pen, but you will know how well it will burn and how long it will take.  You can do several "test burns" on the blank until you get exactly what you want...correct font, correct size, correct burn time, etc.  Record the settings and turn the pen, then you will get exactly what you want when you burn the actual pen.


----------



## CrashmanS

How do install the software if every safety, Antivirus,  malware immediately deletes my install and tells me it is a severe threat? Download site does the exact same thing. The instructions say to turn off all anti virus and download or install. Something seems wrong about that. 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## keithncsu

Yes it seems odd but we've all done it and had no issues that I know of. You can also go in and add it to the safe list so that it doesn't do that.


----------



## mecompco

CrashmanS said:


> How do install the software if every safety, Antivirus,  malware immediately deletes my install and tells me it is a severe threat? Download site does the exact same thing. The instructions say to turn off all anti virus and download or install. Something seems wrong about that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk



If you disable your AV temporarily, it should install. Then turn your AV back on and do a scan to ease your mind.

If you absolutely can't make it work, let me know and I'll send you a copy of my .exe that should work. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## CrashmanS

https://youtu.be/1E8gXHNV_8k
Don't yell at me for the portrait video. I should have done it it landscape. But I wanted to see how close I could get to the edge of an ash cigar pen top. And to try out my "custom"  maple v block centering device.


 right to the edge. I'm happy with it! 
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## alankulwicki7

Hey all,
I love my NEJE but now I'm thinking of getting a larger laser for engraving cutting boards and larger items. The 60W Epilog type laser is out of the question so I was looking at the 5000mW or 5500mW laser like this:
EleksMaker EleksLaser-A3 Pro 5500mW Laser Engraving Machine CNC Laser Printer Sale - Banggood.com

Does anyone know if this machine or one like it will do a gray scale pictures? 

I like the black or dark, one color engravings that the NEJE does but I feel it is best suited for logos. I'd like to be able to have a little more that just the dark color for other engravings. Or is that even possible?

Thanks!
Doug


----------



## mecompco

alankulwicki7 said:


> Hey all,
> I love my NEJE but now I'm thinking of getting a larger laser for engraving cutting boards and larger items. The 60W Epilog type laser is out of the question so I was looking at the 5000mW or 5500mW laser like this:
> EleksMaker EleksLaser-A3 Pro 5500mW Laser Engraving Machine CNC Laser Printer Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> Does anyone know if this machine or one like it will do a gray scale pictures?
> 
> I like the black or dark, one color engravings that the NEJE does but I feel it is best suited for logos. I'd like to be able to have a little more that just the dark color for other engravings. Or is that even possible?
> 
> Thanks!
> Doug



Doug, have you checked out the 40 Watt laser thread? It doesn't seem that for that kind of money that 5.5 W would be all that much better than the NEJE 1W . Now 40W is some real power. I believe the 40 W jobs support Corel Draw, perhaps G code. Don't know if they'll do grey scale. For that, it would have to be able to control the laser pulse intensity on the fly, I'd think. As you've seen, the NEJE just pulses at what ever intensity you choose in the software.


----------



## alankulwicki7

mecompco said:


> alankulwicki7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> I love my NEJE but now I'm thinking of getting a larger laser for engraving cutting boards and larger items. The 60W Epilog type laser is out of the question so I was looking at the 5000mW or 5500mW laser like this:
> EleksMaker EleksLaser-A3 Pro 5500mW Laser Engraving Machine CNC Laser Printer Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> Does anyone know if this machine or one like it will do a gray scale pictures?
> 
> I like the black or dark, one color engravings that the NEJE does but I feel it is best suited for logos. I'd like to be able to have a little more that just the dark color for other engravings. Or is that even possible?
> 
> Thanks!
> Doug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug, have you checked out the 40 Watt laser thread? It doesn't seem that for that kind of money that 5.5 W would be all that much better than the NEJE 1W . Now 40W is some real power. I believe the 40 W jobs support Corel Draw, perhaps G code. Don't know if they'll do grey scale. For that, it would have to be able to control the laser pulse intensity on the fly, I'd think. As you've seen, the NEJE just pulses at what ever intensity you choose in the software.
Click to expand...


I haven't seen that thread. Thanks for the info!


----------



## CrashmanS

How are you hold pens lined up. Some sort of vblock? Maybe some photos are buried in this thread somewhere? 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Curly

Some pictures in posts 84, 260, & 266. Probably descriptions in some other posts too. 

Now you don't have to look for the shovel.


----------



## larryc

I ordered the 1000mw WER laser engraver from Amazon on Dec 3 ($109) and received it yesterday.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DG5JWAE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I set it up on my MacBook Pro. A Mac driver was included on the chip that came with the unit and hooking it up and running was easy. Not what I expected after reading about all the problems others seemed to have.

Evidently WER and NEJE are the same entity because the PDF instruction manual that was included had NEJE on the front cover.


----------



## duncsuss

larryc said:


> I set it up on my MacBook Pro. A Mac driver was included on the chip that came with the unit and hooking it up and running was easy..



Thanks for this information -- I have the Neje DK-8-KZ but at the time I bought it there wasn't a Mac driver. (I've been using an old Windows laptop with it.) I just went to the download site and got the updated installation pack, I'll try it out this weekend.


----------



## vtgaryw

*My First Laser Project*

I got my 1000mW engraver in the early fall, but with all the shows I do then didn't really have much time to play with it.  Here's my first real project with it.

My old High School was abandoned for years, and it's now being renovated and converted to apartments.  I was able to buy about 8' of bleacher wood at the ground breaking ceremony they had in late summer.  I'm going to make pens for alumni.

Here's a couple of shots of the pen (PSI Executive.)  Also, I was pretty happy with the engraving on the pen box.  I did the logo first, then the left word and then the right.  I was fortunate to get a very nice clean .jpg of the logo.

Gary


----------



## keithncsu

Very nice!! What did you do to make sure the words were level and spaced correctly?


----------



## TonyL

I use MS Word, then use Snag-it or the like and save it as an image. Then I drag and from the image onto the field that the laser s/w provides. There is no leveling, spacing, or orienting involved. MS Word was the only application that I was familiar with; I am sure there are better approaches out there.


----------



## keithncsu

I get that part. But he makes it sound like he engraved the symbol then repositioned for each word. That's the part I'm curious about. Interested in how to reposition the piece and keep that level of accuracy.


----------



## TonyL

Ah....my fault. I didn't read the whole thing. Sorry about that.


----------



## vtgaryw

keithncsu said:


> Very nice!! What did you do to make sure the words were level and spaced correctly?



Yeah, that's the part that I worry may not be as repeatable as I like.  I put a light pencil line across the box first, then marked the end of the 1st word and the start of the 2nd word on the right of the logo.  Then just ran the preview function until it seemed like I had good alignment.

Maybe I was just lucky that my first try came out well (although I had run a test on a flat piece of scrap 1st and it came out well.)

My plan is to make a small jig with a stop across the bottom horizontal edge to butt the box against.  At least that should help with the alignment.

Gary


----------



## leehljp

I am interested in purchasing a laser engraver but I am fluent in Mac OS but not Windows. I can and do use Windows, but the location of files and installs, along with the plethora of pop up suggestion/question dialog boxes drives me nuts. I have Windows 7 on my Mac and it runs fast - at least with MS word, and Excel with large files.

 However I got excited when I noticed that some lasers run by blue tooth and can print from Android/IOS phones and iPads.

Has anyone used the blue tooth print function from an iPad or phone to the laser engraver?

https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Engra..._rd_wg=GIhwW&refRID=WGH8KEG1XRM2JEPWH7YZ&th=1


----------



## larryc

For those looking for a way to rotate your pen blanks on the NEJA/WER laser, if you'll do a search on Facebook for Benson Pace, he has developed a novel way to rotate the blank. I built his jig and it works like a charm.


----------



## keithncsu

I saw that on the Facebook group too.  The other guy saying he's going to make a 3d printed one has a cool set up too.  Just less DIY and more "just take my money so I don't have to think" HAHA!

Very interested in it as I've had a few sales go away because the engraving wouldn't work out.


----------



## mecompco

Yeah, I saw both of those posts as well. That 3D printed one looks great.


----------



## OklaTurner

I just ordered the NEJE 1000mW laser for $72.36 shipped from Jet.com. Should be here sometime between 4/17 and 4/25. 

I'm pretty excited to check this out. I have a Christmas order coming in soon that will make this thing worth the money.

--Micah


----------



## chartle

larryc said:


> For those looking for a way to rotate your pen blanks on the NEJA/WER laser, if you'll do a search on Facebook for Benson Pace, he has developed a novel way to rotate the blank. I built his jig and it works like a charm.





keithncsu said:


> I saw that on the Facebook group too.  The other guy saying he's going to make a 3d printed one has a cool set up too.  Just less DIY and more "just take my money so I don't have to think" HAHA!
> 
> Very interested in it as I've had a few sales go away because the engraving wouldn't work out.



I thought of doing the same thing but instead of rubber bands my thought was to use pretty much the same setup but push the tube onto the bed and have it rotate it. The only drawback is that you would probably have to mirror the graphic. Also maybe stick a bit of craft foam on the bed to give the tube something to grab onto. 

Oh and I so want one of these. 

Here is the YouTube link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AJpfxNPLgI


----------



## larryc

chartle said:


> larryc said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those looking for a way to rotate your pen blanks on the NEJA/WER laser, if you'll do a search on Facebook for Benson Pace, he has developed a novel way to rotate the blank. I built his jig and it works like a charm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keithncsu said:
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that on the Facebook group too.  The other guy saying he's going to make a 3d printed one has a cool set up too.  Just less DIY and more "just take my money so I don't have to think" HAHA!
> 
> Very interested in it as I've had a few sales go away because the engraving wouldn't work out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I thought of doing the same thing but instead of rubber bands my thought was to use pretty much the same setup but push the tube onto the bed and have it rotate it. The only drawback is that you would probably have to mirror the graphic. Also maybe stick a bit of craft foam on the bed to give the tube something to grab onto.
> 
> Oh and I so want one of these.
> 
> Here is the YouTube link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AJpfxNPLgI
Click to expand...


I made that jig and here is a pen I engraved with it.


----------



## chartle

mecompco said:


> Yeah, I saw both of those posts as well. That 3D printed one looks great.



Here is that one. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGLZqveXE88

This could be done with out a 3d printer. Those gears and maybe the rack are cheap parts on Ebay or other sites.


----------



## chartle

I wanted to add this as a separate post but I think Inkscape (a free vector program) has some sort of program that interfaces with these cheap laser engravers. 

So instead of burning it like a raster file it can burn vector files which are more like lines and shapes.


----------



## larryc

chartle said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I saw both of those posts as well. That 3D printed one looks great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is that one.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGLZqveXE88
> 
> This could be done with out a 3d printer. Those gears and maybe the rack are cheap parts on Ebay or other sites.
Click to expand...


With the one I made you only need 2 pieces of 1/4" mdf or plywood and a rubber band. The bushings, mandrel and slimline tubes I'm sure you already have.


----------



## chartle

larryc said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I saw both of those posts as well. That 3D printed one looks great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is that one.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGLZqveXE88
> 
> This could be done with out a 3d printer. Those gears and maybe the rack are cheap parts on Ebay or other sites.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> With the one I made you only need 2 pieces of 1/4" mdf or plywood and a rubber band. The bushings, mandrel and slimline tubes I'm sure you already have.
Click to expand...


Well I was just looking at parts and if you want the extra security of a toothed wheel here are more than enough parts to make a rack and pinion.

GT2 20 Teeth Aluminium Timing Pulley 2.5M 2GT Belt For 3D Printer RepRap Sale - Banggood.com

Actually they have all the parts to do it right and turn the pen directly from the mechanizm that moves the bed back and forth.


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> Well I was just looking at parts and if you want the extra security of a toothed wheel here are more than enough parts to make a rack and pinion.
> 
> GT2 20 Teeth Aluminium Timing Pulley 2.5M 2GT Belt For 3D Printer RepRap Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> Actually they have all the parts to do it right and turn the pen directly from the mechanizm that moves the bed back and forth.



That security comes at a price.

By definition, if the circumference at the drive location is not the same as the circumference of the barrel you are engraving, the image will be scaled in proportion to the ratio of the two. The horizontal axis will not be scaled, of course, so the image will be distorted instead of simply "wrapped around the barrel".

Using the bushings for the pen will be a closer match -- unless you get a cog machined for every different barrel diameter.


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I was just looking at parts and if you want the extra security of a toothed wheel here are more than enough parts to make a rack and pinion.
> 
> GT2 20 Teeth Aluminium Timing Pulley 2.5M 2GT Belt For 3D Printer RepRap Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> Actually they have all the parts to do it right and turn the pen directly from the mechanizm that moves the bed back and forth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That security comes at a price.
> 
> By definition, if the circumference at the drive location is not the same as the circumference of the barrel you are engraving, the image will be scaled in proportion to the ratio of the two. The horizontal axis will not be scaled, of course, so the image will be distorted instead of simply "wrapped around the barrel".
> 
> Using the bushings for the pen will be a closer match -- unless you get a cog machined for every different barrel diameter.
Click to expand...


Yea right, I now remember I thought of this before but remembered that there would be issues. But the one 3d printed jig does just that. Going to have to look into this more since dam those engravers are so cheap now.


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> But the one 3d printed jig does just that.



I like that jig, but I'd be inclined to just use the side supports from it and skip the toothed wheel which I think is overkill for this task (having seen how well the rubber band driven one works).


----------



## Mach4

Here's my rotary engraving solution for the NeJe laser engraver. I'm using the 1500 mw version.

I used the concepts and basic design of the various pioneering efforts documented on the net. I designed the brackets and supports in Fusion 360 and printed them on a 3D printer. The mandrel is just a piece of 1/4" cold rolled with the diameter reduced a few thousandths. The bearings are ones I scavenged from some old inline skates. I was able to turn the bushings and the drive wheels on my metal lathe. The drive wheels are knurled to ensure no slippage against the rubber bands. The drive wheels are sized to the various barrel sizes of pens - they don't need to be exact just fairly close. I'm using plastic finishing bushings to hold the barrel square and secure. 

Shown is my latest pen engraved with a Celtic knot design.


----------



## Jadey

mecompco said:


> Having seen examples of what Ryan's machine will do, I've pulled the trigger on the 1mW model--under $100 including "expedited" shipping. Will report back when it arrives. Even if it will only do wood, that opens up a ton possibilites.





You won't be sorry! Next project I'll post a video of my rubber band driven rolling jig based on a couple ideas I saw.  1 coat of CA then start burning! Well worth the $100.00!


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## chartle

Question about engraving.  On some flatwork it looks like the area around the graphic is sort of stained. Almost like the smoke blew across it.

Is this something normal or is it bad setup?


----------



## chartle

Well as a reward for filling my income taxes 1 day early, in 3 to 7, probably 5 or 6 I will be the proud owner of a new laser engraver.

At Gear Best if you pick the LA warehouse its actually cheaper than sending it from China.

I think I already have a use for it if it gets here and set up by mid May. 

My boss has a team that completes in the BBQ contest at Memphis in May, second place whole hog:eat:, and I think I can sell him some pens. Enough to cover the cost of the supplies and the  engraver.  Figure I can make up some gun metal sierra/monets kits from woodnwhimsie. Not sure if I should source some mesquite wood blanks or just use some maple for max contrast. Any extra burning just adds to the decoration. 

I also have access to all his graphics in the perfect format because I make all his signage.

Wondering what I should charge.


----------



## sbwertz

chartle said:


> Question about engraving.  On some flatwork it looks like the area around the graphic is sort of stained. Almost like the smoke blew across it.
> 
> Is this something normal or is it bad setup?



Two things...get a little fan (I bought a little usb fan from the dollar store!) and blow the smoke away. Second, reduce the burning time.  Soft woods don't take very long at all, and if it isn't dark enough, hit "recarve" to burn it deeper without darkening the surrounding area.  (Some 400/600 grit sandpaper on a sanding block will remove the stain without damaging the engraving.)


----------



## sbwertz

chartle said:


> Well as a reward for filling my income taxes 1 day early, in 3 to 7, probably 5 or 6 I will be the proud owner of a new laser engraver.
> 
> At Gear Best if you pick the LA warehouse its actually cheaper than sending it from China.
> 
> I think I already have a use for it if it gets here and set up by mid May.
> 
> My boss has a team that completes in the BBQ contest at Memphis in May, second place whole hog:eat:, and I think I can sell him some pens. Enough to cover the cost of the supplies and the  engraver.  Figure I can make up some gun metal sierra/monets kits from woodnwhimsie. Not sure if I should source some mesquite wood blanks or just use some maple for max contrast. Any extra burning just adds to the decoration.
> 
> I also have access to all his graphics in the perfect format because I make all his signage.
> 
> Wondering what I should charge.



You will be amazed at the things you think of you can engrave!  I make little wooden tags for the stuff from the blind center that shows the kind of wood it is made from and the ACBVI logo on the back.  Also ID tags for canes with their name and phone number in case they lose them.  My grandsons made id tags for their backpacks and musical instrument cases, and also engraved their phone number on the drone they built with their 3d printer.  I engrave little 1" disks with a name (or wedding date in one case) and inlay them into the top of bottle stoppers, and also engrave a 5-speed shift pattern and inlay them into the top of gearshift-knob shaped bottle stoppers.  Just use a forstner bit and drill out a little depression on the top of the stopper before removing it from the stopper mandrel. Glue in the disc and finish as usual.

If you are engraving dark wood get some "Rub N Buff"   and rub into the engraving.  (Apply a good hard finish BEFORE engraving so the Rub N Buff doesn't get into the grain of the wood, and burn it deep.)


----------



## chartle

*Any More Issues with the service life of the laser diode?*

Ok now that I have an engraver on order I'd like to know if anyone else is having diode life issues?

I just realized I was the second poster on this thread and somehow lost track of it and only picked it back up a few pages ago. Based on what I read I ordered one and hope it gets shipped soon, fingers crossed. I already have what maybe my first pen sales set up based on having this laser.

But anyway I decided to go back and read all the posts I missed for any tips and hit the section where 2 people had life issues with the diode.

I may need to do a hundred pens and I need to know should I have a spare diode (or 2) on hand and just assume that this is a consumable like ink for a printer? I do plan on having a fan on the heat sink and not try to tax it too much. I right now have a May 15th deadline. 

I also guess if this takes off I could invest in a Non Toy engraver. :good:


----------



## wood-of-1kind

chartle said:


> Ok now that I have an engraver on order I'd like to know if anyone else is having diode life issues?
> 
> I just realized I was the second poster on this thread and somehow lost track of it and only picked it back up a few pages ago. Based on what I read I ordered one and hope it gets shipped soon, fingers crossed. I already have what maybe my first pen sales set up based on having this laser.
> 
> But anyway I decided to go back and read all the posts I missed for any tips and hit the section where 2 people had life issues with the diode.
> 
> I may need to do a hundred pens and I need to know should I have a spare diode (or 2) on hand and just assume that this is a consumable like ink for a printer? I do plan on having a fan on the heat sink and not try to tax it too much. I right now have a May 15th deadline.
> 
> I also guess if this takes off I could invest in a Non Toy engraver. :good:



I have not had any issues with the diode (so far). Hopefully you will NOT do 100 pens at once as this is not a heavy duty unit. I try not to do more than 5 images in a row (per day). Remember this is a fairly inexpensive unit that is not engineered to be a workhorse. I love my little unit and it has worked well so far.


----------



## mecompco

chartle said:


> Ok now that I have an engraver on order I'd like to know if anyone else is having diode life issues?
> 
> I just realized I was the second poster on this thread and somehow lost track of it and only picked it back up a few pages ago. Based on what I read I ordered one and hope it gets shipped soon, fingers crossed. I already have what maybe my first pen sales set up based on having this laser.
> 
> But anyway I decided to go back and read all the posts I missed for any tips and hit the section where 2 people had life issues with the diode.
> 
> I may need to do a hundred pens and I need to know should I have a spare diode (or 2) on hand and just assume that this is a consumable like ink for a printer? I do plan on having a fan on the heat sink and not try to tax it too much. I right now have a May 15th deadline.
> 
> I also guess if this takes off I could invest in a Non Toy engraver. :good:



Yup, had to replace my diode. I ran it pretty much straight for a couple of hours and the next time I went to use it, it wouldn't burn. A replacement diode from eBay and it was right back in business. Now I use a small fan and some restraint to hopefully make this one last longer.


----------



## chartle

mecompco said:


> Yup, had to replace my diode. I ran it pretty much straight for a couple of hours and the next time I went to use it, it wouldn't burn. A replacement diode from eBay and it was right back in business. Now I use a small fan and some restraint to hopefully make this one last longer.



You were one of the two posters I was referring to. 

So the replacement is working better? And do you think its because the first diode was a dud or you are just "babying" it more? 

I'll probably add a proper fan to the diode heat sink and maybe burn them every 5 min or so. Even if it totally dies I should make enough to cover buying a new one from this upcoming job. I'm thinking $20 per pen for maybe 50 or so, Holly crap that $1,000 minus $350 for kits blank and  supplies. What the going rate for Sierra's with either a pecan or maple custom engraved blank?

Oh and I'm getting antsy. I ordered it Monday from the gear best LA warehouse and its just sitting there in a "Packed" status. :crying:

Oh and I understand ordering from China, I get a package of stuff from Banggood every two weeks or so but like I said this is from LA and will be shipped FedEx Smart post. So I know once FedEx gets it, its only 5 or so days to me.


----------



## Mach4

If you're using the unit for commercial purposes, it would be advisable to have a spare diode....heck, for $100 get a complete spare unit. 

...cheap insurance


----------



## chartle

Mach4 said:


> If you're using the unit for commercial purposes, it would be advisable to have a spare diode....heck, for $100 get a complete spare unit.
> 
> ...cheap insurance



I got it for $68 shipped from LA so I could double my output. In fact, since its a sierra, I plan on turning two blanks at a time.


----------



## mecompco

Well, the original diode worked fine for the first six months or so, then once I ran around 80 engraved 'fridge magnets, it stopped working. Gave every indication of working, noise and light, but no burn. Swapped in the replacement and its been fine (have not used it as much, yet, either). If it is a mission critical piece of equipment for you, I think having a spare diode and/or spare engraver might not be a bad idea (diode was $22.00 on eBay).


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> ... this is from LA and will be shipped *FedEx Smart post*. So I know once FedEx gets it, its only 5 or so days to me.



In my experience, this is not a realistic expectation. FedEx Smartpost has only one redeeming feature -- it's cheap for the shipper -- and their delivery estimates are about as reliable as a chocolate watch.


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... this is from LA and will be shipped *FedEx Smart post*. So I know once FedEx gets it, its only 5 or so days to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, this is not a realistic expectation. FedEx Smartpost has only one redeeming feature -- it's cheap for the shipper -- and their delivery estimates are about as reliable as a chocolate watch.
Click to expand...


I've ordered a fair amount of stuff from Banggood from China and their Los Angles warehouse. I usually order Friday and I sometimes get it on the next Friday or maybe Monday, usually because they try to deliver it on Saturday and since I send it to my work no one is there. 

So I guess 5 days was a little too optimistic. I've gotten stuff from China in less than 10 or so calendar days but then I once forgot about a package and it showed up 2 months later.


----------



## OklaTurner

OklaTurner said:


> I just ordered the NEJE 1000mW laser for $72.36 shipped from Jet.com. Should be here sometime between 4/17 and 4/25.
> 
> I'm pretty excited to check this out. I have a Christmas order coming in soon that will make this thing worth the money.
> 
> --Micah



Just took delivery of my new engraver!! Only one week from order to delivery through www.jet.com. Package was in good condition and the laser was well packed. Unfortunately, I don't have any play time until Saturday.

Micah


----------



## chartle

Mine should be here next Thursday or Friday. I just realized I don't have anywhere to put it downstairs. I have a number of old XP computers to use but I guess I'm going to have to come up with something.


----------



## PatrickR

I couldn't resist. I got a colemeter 1000mv from amazon.

Is anyone selling the rotating jigs for these? I'd rather buy one that works than have to engineer it.


----------



## Mach4

PatrickR said:


> I couldn't resist. I got a colemeter 1000mv from amazon.
> 
> Is anyone selling the rotating jigs for these? I'd rather buy one that works than have to engineer it.



Nope


----------



## chartle

PatrickR said:


> I couldn't resist. I got a colemeter 1000mv from amazon.
> 
> Is anyone selling the rotating jigs for these? I'd rather buy one that works than have to engineer it.



There are simple plans on a laser engraver help page on face book. I can post the name tomorrow.


----------



## PatrickR

I just went back a couple pages in this thread and found a video by Bob Pace. really simple to make. I'll give it a try.


----------



## chartle

PatrickR said:


> I just went back a couple pages in this thread and found a video by Bob Pace. really simple to make. I'll give it a try.



That's the one I found.


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... this is from LA and will be shipped *FedEx Smart post*. So I know once FedEx gets it, its only 5 or so days to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, this is not a realistic expectation. FedEx Smartpost has only one redeeming feature -- it's cheap for the shipper -- and their delivery estimates are about as reliable as a chocolate watch.
Click to expand...


You had to post this. You jinxed me. Just got an update and the new estimate is next Saturday which means Monday which means I lose a weekend. :mad-tongue:


----------



## mecompco

Mach4 said:


> PatrickR said:
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't resist. I got a colemeter 1000mv from amazon.
> 
> Is anyone selling the rotating jigs for these? I'd rather buy one that works than have to engineer it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope
Click to expand...


Incorrect. Mike Shortness is 3D printing and selling the rotary jigs. Granted you can make one yourself if you so desire. Here's his video of it in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bmdgfx_Lnw&t=13s


----------



## Mach4

mecompco said:


> Incorrect. Mike Shortness is 3D printing and selling the rotary jigs.



I stand corrected.... Didn't find anything when doing research before designing and building mine.

Thanks


----------



## mecompco

Mach4 said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Incorrect. Mike Shortness is 3D printing and selling the rotary jigs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stand corrected.... Didn't find anything when doing research before designing and building mine.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...


Hey, no problem! I know it's a fairly simple design, but for those who would rather pay than put the time into making one, it's an ($45.00) option.


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... this is from LA and will be shipped *FedEx Smart post*. So I know once FedEx gets it, its only 5 or so days to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, this is not a realistic expectation. FedEx Smartpost has only one redeeming feature -- it's cheap for the shipper -- and their delivery estimates are about as reliable as a chocolate watch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> You had to post this. You jinxed me. Just got an update and the new estimate is next Saturday which means Monday which means I lose a weekend. :mad-tongue:
Click to expand...


Sorry. At least I gave you two days in which you could prepare for the disappointment (such as stocking up on chocolate, amboyna burl blanks, baby back ribs, more amboyna burl blanks, etc.)


----------



## chartle

mecompco said:


> Mach4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> Incorrect. Mike Shortness is 3D printing and selling the rotary jigs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stand corrected.... Didn't find anything when doing research before designing and building mine.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Hey, no problem! I know it's a fairly simple design, but for those who would rather pay than put the time into making one, it's an ($45.00) option.
Click to expand...


After going to MPG I realized that a lot of pen turners only turn pens. They don't have access to "real" woodworking shop with things like table saws. I would assume most only have a lathe and a drill press. Heck some may even not have that and buy predrilled blanks.


----------



## Mikeyt

Where can I find or buy the  mike shortness 3D rotary jig for the neje laser engraver. I saw the video and would like to buy one. Any information is appreciated 


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## PatrickR

Well that was disappointing. after one day mine is going back. it worked initially and I burned about a half dozen tests. It stopped being recognized by the computer, tried it on another but no luck. I'm glad I got it from amazon. I'll have to decide if I want to try another of the same or get the newer Bluetooth model.


----------



## mecompco

Mikeyt said:


> Where can I find or buy the  mike shortness 3D rotary jig for the neje laser engraver. I saw the video and would like to buy one. Any information is appreciated
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app



Here's a link to his FB page. You can PM him there to see where you'd be on the waiting list.

https://www.facebook.com/mike.shortness?fref=nf


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... this is from LA and will be shipped *FedEx Smart post*. So I know once FedEx gets it, its only 5 or so days to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, this is not a realistic expectation. FedEx Smartpost has only one redeeming feature -- it's cheap for the shipper -- and their delivery estimates are about as reliable as a chocolate watch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> You had to post this. You jinxed me. Just got an update and the new estimate is next Saturday which means Monday which means I lose a weekend. :mad-tongue:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Sorry. At least I gave you two days in which you could prepare for the disappointment (such as stocking up on chocolate, amboyna burl blanks, baby back ribs, more amboyna burl blanks, etc.)
Click to expand...



Well me sacrificing one of those amboyna burl blanks over the weekend must have made a difference and that scan on Friday saying it went back to CA was wrong and instead it went 3/4 across the country over the weekend and is sitting outside Columbus only 200 miles away. 

Now its saying its going to delivered Friday. I think it may get here before then but don't want to jinx it. 

AND YOU BETTER NOT ALSO  :angry:


----------



## chartle

Ok engraver just got here. And I now understand why people can have issues with FedEx smartpost.

Here is the journey of my package. Notice it crossed the Ohio/PA border 5 times in the last 3 days. 

I had heard that the various shipper's automated system that have trouble reading the addresses on the labels and sometimes read the return address and start to send it back to where it came from but then that hub reads it correctly and sends back in the right direction. 

Ok done with my mini rant got to get this hooked up.  

4/27/2017 - Thursday


10:27 am	Delivered		                        PITTSBURGH, PA
8:25 am 	Out for delivery		                PITTSBURGH, PA
4:08 am 	At U.S. Postal Service facility	PITTSBURGH, PA
12:29 am	Departed FedEx location		FEDEX SMARTPOST CLINTON, PA

4/26/2017 - Wednesday


3:59 pm 	Arrived at FedEx location		FEDEX SMARTPOST CLINTON, PA
5:09 am 	Departed FedEx location		FEDEX SMARTPOST GROVEPORT, OH
1:04 am 	Departed FedEx location		FEDEX SMARTPOST CLINTON, PA

4/25/2017 - Tuesday


11:54 pm	Arrived at FedEx location		FEDEX SMARTPOST GROVEPORT, OH
11:12 am	Arrived at FedEx location		FEDEX SMARTPOST CLINTON, PA
1:38 am 	Departed FedEx location		GROVE CITY, OH

4/24/2017 - Monday


2:37 pm     	Arrived at FedEx location		GROVE CITY, OH

4/21/2017 - Friday


8:26 pm     	Arrived at FedEx location		CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA

4/20/2017 - Thursday


8:49 pm     	In transit		CONTINENTAL DIVIDE, NM
7:37 am     	Departed FedEx location		CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA
ITY OF INDUSTRY, CA

4/19/2017 - Wednesday


8:25 pm     	Arrived at FedEx location		CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> ... got to get this hooked up.



Remember -- "no pix, didn't happen" :biggrin:


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... got to get this hooked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember -- "no pix, didn't happen" :biggrin:
Click to expand...


Shhh I'm at work so I have to wait for a few people to leave after lunch. I already have a old XP PC I want to use ready to go.


----------



## SenjinTG

It takes a little playing but you can control a rotary attachment by connecting the third axis to it. Yo will need to play a bit to find the proper rotation feed rate.


----------



## chartle

SenjinTG said:


> It takes a little playing but you can control a rotary attachment by connecting the third axis to it. Yo will need to play a bit to find the proper rotation feed rate.



I think what you are taking about has been discussed a few pages ago in this thread.


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... got to get this hooked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember -- "no pix, didn't happen" :biggrin:
Click to expand...

Wait for it .........


----------



## chartle

Slight fail. 

I used some post it's since the unit came out of the broken. One of the rubber bands didn't make it. 

But anyway slight fail. Had the laser turned up too much first time and burned right through. This came our better. I think I have focusing issues.


----------



## chartle

Ok Third real test and I'm very very impressed. I even think I can get it better with more fussing with the focus.

Also for what it is the software is very nice if you don't understand computers much. It scans all your com ports looking for the device versus you going into control panel and finding it out. 

Just so you know I'm running it on an old but rebuilt XP machine.


----------



## Rick_G

Ordered mine last week so now I just wait.


----------



## chartle

Rick_G said:


> Ordered mine last week so now I just wait.



I ordered mine form the Gearbest LA warehouse Monday Night and it got here this morning. Assuming yours is coming direct from China. It was actually cheaper then getting it from China.


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> Ok Third real test and I'm very very impressed. I even think I can get it better with more fussing with the focus.



Looks pretty good to me! One other thing you can try (besides focus adjustment) is to give it a very light rub down with 320 or 400 grit, it can remove some of the "fur" around the edges of the burn and really get things crisp.


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok Third real test and I'm very very impressed. I even think I can get it better with more fussing with the focus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty good to me! One other thing you can try (besides focus adjustment) is to give it a very light rub down with 320 or 400 grit, it can remove some of the "fur" around the edges of the burn and really get things crisp.
Click to expand...


Does a coat of finish before burning help?


----------



## duncsuss

chartle said:


> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok Third real test and I'm very very impressed. I even think I can get it better with more fussing with the focus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty good to me! One other thing you can try (besides focus adjustment) is to give it a very light rub down with 320 or 400 grit, it can remove some of the "fur" around the edges of the burn and really get things crisp.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Does a coat of finish before burning help?
Click to expand...


I haven't tried that yet -- it's next on my list 

Perhaps it will help prevent soot from getting into open grain around the burnt image.


----------



## mecompco

I've applied sanding sealer before engraving, and that worked pretty well. Put a friction polish finish over the engraving. I know some folks do CA first, then burn. I've also read where engraving over masking tape works well, but have not tried that yet. Right now I'm starting to experiment with the rotary attachment. Looking forward to seeing what your results are.

Regards,
Michael


----------



## chartle

duncsuss said:


> Perhaps it will help prevent soot from getting into open grain around the burnt image.



Well in this application the soot is a plus. Its a competition BBQ team so it looking like a branding iron only adds to the look.

I may not even seal them. They still smell like smoke.


----------



## Buddy Stacy

> Keith, thanks, that is exactly the sort of info I was looking for! Please, do, post some pix when you have the chance. Are you engraving in CA covered wood, Acrylic, both? Text is pretty much what I'm interested in.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael
> 
> PS: Could one engrave on bare wood, then apply the finish?



I have used one of these lasers to burn on pens both finished and unfinished.  Both work equally well.

Mine is able to burn antler and acrylic as well.  Doesn't do amazing on these materials, but it will work.  One tip for these materials is to turn the burn time up so the laser stays on longer, and also put a strip of painter's tape over the surface.  Light colored surfaces like antler and lighter shades of acrylic reflect the laser rather than absorb it.  The blue painter's tape helps combat this since it's a dark color that is non-reflective.

Also, I put a small piece of the non-slip shelf liner on the laser bed.  This not only helps hold stuff in place while burning it, but it also gives me a grid to line up to that helps keep everything square.


----------



## Mikeyt

Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## mecompco

Well, today makes one year exactly since I started this thread. 50 pages later, it is still going. For me at least, the NEJE has paid for itself--I hope others have had the same experience. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## chartle

Over the week end I brought home the engraver and set it up on a win 10 machine. Throughout this thread there are posts on getting working in win 10 well no problems, I didn't even have to install the driver. 

I'll post pics of the pens tomorrow. I still have to work on my rotating jig. Right now its a piece of all thread on two oak guides. I need to come up with a way to have a little adjustment since the laser is not right in the middle of the machine and its a little crooked. 

But my first two pens came out way better than expected.


----------



## NLAlston

I'd always wanted something which would fulfill the means of personalizing pens, and pen boxes.  I had just recently bought a package of those WaterSlide Decal Papers, for my laser printer.  I Haven't gotten around to using them, yet, but learned (after the fact of ordering) that these decals WOULD show slight border lines of the cutout decal's application.  

For the past few days I had been looking at - and pondering the purchase of - the very laser engraving device that folks, here, seem to be in much favor of.  It is on the strength of this that I JUST NOW submitted an order for one.  A responder to this thread provided a link to the one that most everyone had been making reference to.  So, yes, my order has been put through at a cost of $67.54 (free shipping).

After having read further, through this thread, I'm kinda feeling a bit of regret for not having paid the $10+ more, for the purpose of expediting the shipping.  I think I recall that the expedited shipping translated into a 3-7 business uday shipping time, whereas the free shipping was stated to take between 7-10 business days, to realize receipt of the package.  I'm not a very impatient chap, and would have no issue wading through those 7-10 business days.  However, I've just read where one purchaser was in wait for at least six weeks and, even THEN, had to get PayPal involved.  

Well, I hope to not have to experience anything like that.  I'm looking forward to getting that 'toy' , and putting it to task on some nice pen projects.


----------



## chartle

NLAlston said:


> So, yes, my order has been put through at a cost of $67.54 (free shipping).



did you get it from GEARBEST? If you did and its this one you can get it shipped from the Los Angeles US Warehouse.

NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-62.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

Ordering it from LA is also a little cheaper and I got it in 7 real days. See if you can cancel that order and re order it.


----------



## chartle

Here they are.

They are oak and maple. I know, nothing special about the blanks but I wanted to show off the engraving and its what I had in the basement. Also Rockler isn't open at 10 PM on a Sunday. 

But I was quite surprised how crisp they are. The oak has a BLO/CA finish and the Maple has a Shellawax Friction Polish. i would have used it for both since I wanted a really quick finish but the oak was of course oak. I can't find my macro lens for my phone so I can't really show how clear the little "TM" 

I think I'm not going to finish them any further. The reason is that they still have a nice "campfire" smell to them.


----------



## NLAlston

chartle said:


> NLAlston said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, yes, my order has been put through at a cost of $67.54 (free shipping).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you get it from GEARBEST? If you did and its this one you can get it shipped from the Los Angeles US Warehouse.
> 
> NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-62.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com
> 
> Ordering it from LA is also a little cheaper and I got it in 7 real days. See if you can cancel that order and re order it.
Click to expand...


Hey Cliff, thanks for the advice.

But I just revisited that site (GearBest), and could find nowhere that I could cancel my order.  I guess that I could've contacted them (email) with an explanation on my desire to cancel out.  But, I'm just going to let matters remain as they are.  Mother's Day is approaching, and I had hoped to personalize pens for my mother, and mother-in-law.  Even with USA shipped packages, there'd be no real guarantee that it (the package) would, indeed, make it here by then.  So, I'll just keep my projects rolling along smile until such time as when that device DOES arrive.

And, again, thanks.


----------



## Bob Kardell

I saw a couple of people in this thread mention they used painters tape when engraving - I wondered why?  Does it help keep the burn marks down?  Does it help with a sharper engraved image?

Thanks

Bob


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## Buddy Stacy

Bob Kardell said:


> I saw a couple of people in this thread mention they used painters tape when engraving - I wondered why?  Does it help keep the burn marks down?  Does it help with a sharper engraved image?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app





Lighter colored materials like yellow, white, etc acrylic reflect the laser rather than absorb it and as a result, it doesn't burn well with laser diode lasers.  Same with some antler.  Putting the blue painters tape over the area to be burned stops the laser from reflecting and let's you burn the lighter materials.  Not a perfect science, at least for me, but it does help a lot.


Buddy's Custom Creations


----------



## duncsuss

Buddy Stacy said:


> Mine is able to burn antler and acrylic as well.  Doesn't do amazing on these materials, but it will work.



Interesting -- what is the power rating of your unit?

Mine is rated 1W (or as they like to call it, 1000mW :wink and Gearbest seem to have two different answers about whether it can burn/engrave in plastics. It would be great if it turns out I can use it on acrylic acetate as well as wood.

Thanks!


----------



## Buddy Stacy

duncsuss said:


> Buddy Stacy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is able to burn antler and acrylic as well.  Doesn't do amazing on these materials, but it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting -- what is the power rating of your unit?
> 
> Mine is rated 1W (or as they like to call it, 1000mW :wink and Gearbest seem to have two different answers about whether it can burn/engrave in plastics. It would be great if it turns out I can use it on acrylic acetate as well as wood.
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...




Mine is 1000mW as well.  Dark acrylics do well, sort of.  After burning I have to fill the burn with paint to bring it out or it is really hard to see.  Otherwise it doesn't do bad.  With using the tape the lighter acrylics do ok, but again, fill with paint to get a contrast.  Antler is iffy either way, but with tape seems to do better for me than without.

Wear at least a mask, a respirator would be better.  The smell is pretty strong and probably even dangerous to breathe.


Buddy's Custom Creations


----------



## Rick_G

Got it this afternoon.  Plugged in the software and got an unrecognized character cannot unzip error.  After playing around and checking the internet to see if the software was available on the gear best website (it's not or at least I couldn't find it.) a light came on renamed the file using standard characters and everything worked as it should.  I tried it on some veneer I had and it seemed to work fine.  Then decided to try a pen blank I had and never used.  The blank had my normal CA finish, about 8 coats of CA.  For $100 Cdn.  I'm happy.  The white you see in a couple letters appears to be some CA, a light brush with a toothbrush and they are gone.  Considering it costs me $20 to get a name engraved it should pay for itself fairly soon.  Next step is to build the rotary setup I've seen on here.  It actually looks better than the photo shows.


----------



## NLAlston

Rick_G said:


> Got it this afternoon.  Plugged in the software and got an unrecognized character cannot unzip error.  After playing around and checking the internet to see if the software was available on the gear best website (it's not or at least I couldn't find it.) a light came on renamed the file using standard characters and everything worked as it should.  I tried it on some veneer I had and it seemed to work fine.  Then decided to try a pen blank I had and never used.  The blank had my normal CA finish, about 8 coats of CA.  For $100 Cdn.  I'm happy.  The white you see in a couple letters appears to be some CA, a light brush with a toothbrush and they are gone.  Considering it costs me $20 to get a name engraved it should pay for itself fairly soon.  Next step is to build the rotary setup I've seen on here.  It actually looks better than the photo shows.



Hey Rick, that looks REALLY nice.  I am truly impressed, and seeing what you've done makes me feel even better - and more anxious - about MY machine getting here .


----------



## chartle

Rick_G said:


> 1. Plugged in the software and got an unrecognized character cannot unzip error.
> 
> 2.  After playing around and checking the internet to see if the software was available on the gear best website (it's not or at least I couldn't find it.)



1. thats odd I just unzipped the file and ran the program, I already had the driver installed. (see below)

2. The driver/program is or more like it should be. I found what should have been the right software on the www trusfer com site and downloaded the dual usb series.zip file and installed the driver (Note not needed for Win10).  I tried to run the exe  but it gave me a not a valid win 32 program error. Once I got the unit and ran the file on the included card it ran fine.

Ok It mostly fine it still glitches every once and a while and I'm not sure whats happening or what I do to fix it.

ETA I just checked again and the program on the website is a 3.0 version, not the 3.52 on the chip.


----------



## Rick_G

After a couple days fooling around I finally tried it on my pen and one I was making for my wife.  Mine was CA finished 4 or 5 years ago and it's been my daily carry pen.  I burned it through the CA with a burn time of 72.  
The one for my wife I messed up on and had to sand it back to bare wood then added the colouring.  Burned it with a burn time of 40 on bare wood.  Then applied the CA finish.  
Tried building a rotating mech. for the pens but not totally happy with it.  The elastic band used to drive it tended to stretch a little before the blank started to rotate resulting in a little compression of the top.  Likely wouldn't be noticed by someone else but I did so will have to find another way to drive it.
I played a little with some of the acrylics I had and found some worked and some didn't.  If I took a black sharpie and went over the area to be worked on it seemed to give better results.  They were mainly cutoff pieces I had so couldn't tell you what they were all made of.


----------



## sbell111

For those that are having trouble with the laser going through the motions, but not firing, check your USB cables.  A bad cable can make it do this.  I have no idea why.


----------



## chartle

sbell111 said:


> For those that are having trouble with the laser going through the motions, but not firing, check your USB cables.  A bad cable can make it do this.  I have no idea why.



I also dabble in electronics (Arduinos and the like) that use USB for data and power and the people in the know say when people have issues its best to check the USB cables first. 

If the one that powers the motors and the laser (the non mini USB one) can't give enough juice odd things can happen.


----------



## Paul in OKC

Has anyone done antler?


----------



## chartle

Paul in OKC said:


> Has anyone done antler?



I'm afraid to. I'm already worried I'm going to get yelled out for stinking up the house just doing paper and wood.


----------



## Buddy Stacy

Paul in OKC said:


> Has anyone done antler?





Antler can be tough for small lasers.  I typically up the burn time to at least 80.  I also use painters tape to help curb the reflection of the laser from the surface.  Even then I don't always get a clean burn.  It also helps when you have the opportunity to burn into the marrow.  It is softer and actually adds quite a bit of color, although most people tend not to cut that deeply into the antler.


Buddy's Custom Creations


----------



## Dehn0045

Paul in OKC said:


> Has anyone done antler?



Here is a thread that I remembered http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/bullets-antlers-lasers-147426/


----------



## NLAlston

Well, my little Neje Laser Engraver FINALLY arrived, about a half hour ago .  I only had time to unbox it, and install the driver/software.  Sometime this evening, though, I will certainly be putting it to task, on some scrap wood, to see about latching on to proper settings.  Very anxious about it all.  If it does anywhere _even near_ what I am expecting from it, then I know that I will surely look into getting another model, which would afford greater real estate to burn in.  

I've recently seen on, on a YouTube video, which handled up to 8"x10" (I believe it was).  Something like THAT would serve me exceptionally well.


----------



## chartle

sbell111 said:


> For those that are having trouble with the laser going through the motions, but not firing, check your USB cables.  A bad cable can make it do this.  I have no idea why.



To add to my prior post. I fired up the laser to do a demo burn I wanted to post on FB. 

I loaded the image and it did what I thought was starting to burn it moved around a bit and stopped. After I few tries I realized the software was tell me the burner was resetting. These kinds of boards will reset if they don't get enough juice. I knew my motor cable was ok since it was the one provided and I had it plugged into USB power hub in a 2.2 amp socket but for the data cable which I think also powers the board I had to  use a USB extension which was pretty thin. Moved a little bit of stuff around and got it plugged in without the extension and everything is fine.


----------



## brucew

I just got in my NEJE laser a few days ago and have really enjoyed playing with it.  I was able to put a name and then a small picture on a scrap piece of wooden dowel.  It became apparent that I would need one of those rotary jigs to do pens the way I wanted.

I contacted Mike Shortness on Saturday about purchasing one of his kits.  It was easy ordering and simple payment process through paypal to get it done.  By Tuesday Mike sent me the tracking number and a nice "how to" pdf that he had made.  He also provided some links to his youtube videos on how to use his jig and references to his "Shorty's Corner".

It is supposed to get here by the end of the week and I should be able to start using it this weekend.

I have been very impressed with Mike.


----------



## larryc

These Chinese lasers are not known for their reliability, so yesterday I  insured that the one I have will last forever -  I bought a spare.


----------



## Rick_G

Got mine a couple weeks ago and I was surprised, it did a good job on wood with one pass.  Best quality on my pens for names etc seemed to be on the totally finished pen with my CA finish.  Decided to try some other materials.  Antler did well then I tried some white corian I had.  Never touched it, covered the area with red, green and black marker same result with each.  Tried a yellow highlighter and got it to burn, not deeply and needed 4-5 passes to get any depth but it did work.  Tried some PR with black sharpie over the area I wanted to burn.  Again a few passes re applying the sharpie after each pass and I got a reasonable result.  Next was some truestone, white mother of pearl and white with gold matrix.  Using the sharpie and several passes I got a reasonable result.  Also tried some shredded money blanks that I got from Bellsy I think he uses alumilite but not sure.  Built my own rotator jig that seems to work well and ordered a couple spare laser diodes as when this one does fail I probably won't be able to find them.


----------



## mmayo

*Fan for my laser*

I have read that a fan is needed when burning with the laser.  I just received this fan from Amazon, it was very inexpensive and it works very well.  It has three speeds, but the slow speed should be fine.  It plugs into a USB port and my laptop is always plugged in when I burn items anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGF4Q87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## chartle

mmayo said:


> I have read that a fan is needed when burning with the laser.  I just received this fan from Amazon, it was very inexpensive and it works very well.  It has three speeds, but the slow speed should be fine.  It plugs into a USB port and my laptop is always plugged in when I burn items anyway.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGF4Q87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Found something similar at Walmart. I either put it front or on top blowing down.


----------



## Bob Kardell

Does any know of a rotary attachment for a 40w CLE (Chinese laser engraver)


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## chartle

Bob Kardell said:


> Does any know of a rotary attachment for a 40w CLE (Chinese laser engraver)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app



Can you post a pic or a link?


----------



## tjseagrove

The 1000Mw is currently on sale for $62.50...

NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer 1000MW-62.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

227


----------



## mmayo

*Ok I admit it has taken me a LONG time, but I made it*

These are called triple Tehachapi as they are made with oak wood I harvested in Tehachapi, they are made in Tehachapi and have Tehachapi laser engraved on them. I have had numerous requests for them from customers and artists that work in the Gallery N Gifts and tomorrow they go on sale for $35 each. 






I used a laptop with Windows 10 using a 500x100 jpg file created in photoshop along with a $79 laser engraver I read about on this thread.

Thank you mecompco!!!


----------



## mecompco

Mark, you're welcome! Those pens look great--I think $35 is way too cheap--those ought to pull $49.95 all day long. Just MHO--perhaps that's all your venue will support. 

Regards,
Michael


----------



## mmayo

mecompco said:


> Mark, you're welcome! Those pens look great--I think $35 is way too cheap--those ought to pull $49.95 all day long. Just MHO--perhaps that's all your venue will support.
> 
> Regards,
> Michael



If they sell quickly, I'll gladly adjust my price up. Thanks again.


----------



## NLAlston

chartle said:


> NLAlston said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, yes, my order has been put through at a cost of $67.54 (free shipping).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you get it from GEARBEST? If you did and its this one you can get it shipped from the Los Angeles US Warehouse.
> 
> NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-62.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com
> 
> Ordering it from LA is also a little cheaper and I got it in 7 real days. See if you can cancel that order and re order it.
Click to expand...


Hey, Cliff - I am so glad that I found this reply from you, again.  I just started a thread on how to select a shipping option, at GearBest.  I want to order another laser engraving unit, and couldn't see how to make such a selection.  Clicking on that link, in your reply, does show thar shipping option, but I've been trying to find it for other items.  I want another engraver, but was thinking of getting one of their 'rail system' units with, maybe, a bit more power.  At the very least, though, I'll just get another one like the one I already have.


----------



## Bob Kardell

chartle said:


> Bob Kardell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does any know of a rotary attachment for a 40w CLE (Chinese laser engraver)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post a pic or a link?
Click to expand...










Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## chartle

NLAlston said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NLAlston said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, yes, my order has been put through at a cost of $67.54 (free shipping).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you get it from GEARBEST? If you did and its this one you can get it shipped from the Los Angeles US Warehouse.
> 
> NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-62.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com
> 
> Ordering it from LA is also a little cheaper and I got it in 7 real days. See if you can cancel that order and re order it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Hey, Cliff - I am so glad that I found this reply from you, again.  I just started a thread on how to select a shipping option, at GearBest.  I want to order another laser engraving unit, and couldn't see how to make such a selection.  Clicking on that link, in your reply, does show thar shipping option, but I've been trying to find it for other items.  I want another engraver, but was thinking of getting one of their 'rail system' units with, maybe, a bit more power.  At the very least, though, I'll just get another one like the one I already have.
Click to expand...


I'm on my phone so hard to show you but for this item you can see two shipping options China and US LA. 

Not all items are at the US warehouse only things they think they will sell a lot. Ussually it costs a bit more do to how postage works  But sometimes less if they stock stuff that doesn't sell.

One other issue those up in the great north, as far as I can tell, can't order from the US warehouse. Probably customs issues.


----------



## chartle

Bob Kardell said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob Kardell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does any know of a rotary attachment for a 40w CLE (Chinese laser engraver)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post a pic or a link?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Click to expand...


I'm assuming this type of system is where the laser moves back and forth. Not sure how you can "hack" it to rotate the blank.


----------



## NLAlston

Cliff, thanks a lot.

The last time I visited GearBest (last night) I DD happen to see what you were talking about.  I saw the flag/flags beneath each pictured device, which denoted from where it was - or could be - shipped from.  What kinda threw me was in thinking that the option would have been available for ALL of their offerings.  It turns out, however, that (if I remember correctly) that the shipping option was only available for two of their engravers.

Yes, I had wanted one of their 'rail system' engravers, and had desired one with a fair bit more oomph to it.  At the very least, I would have gotten one quite similar to the one I already have - which would have been their 1500mW engraver, that would have been 500mW more than what mine is.

But I went ahead and ordered another 1000mW NeJe.  Al least I would have a spare, on hand.  If one of the laser modules happened to go bad, I wouldn't have to wait for the time involved to order another, and have it shipped to me - to continue with my projects.


----------



## Monty

Been thinking about getting one of the 40w units myself but wondering if there any great advantage to a 40w unit vs one of the 1000 or 1500mw units.


----------



## duncsuss

Monty said:


> Been thinking about getting one of the 40w units myself but wondering if there any great advantage to a 40w unit vs one of the 1000 or 1500mw units.



Carl started a thread specifically to discuss the 40W laser units ... LINK


----------



## chartle

NLAlston said:


> Cliff, thanks a lot.
> 
> The last time I visited GearBest (last night) I DD happen to see what you were talking about.  I saw the flag/flags beneath each pictured device, which denoted from where it was - or could be - shipped from.  What kinda threw me was in thinking that the option would have been available for ALL of their offerings.  It turns out, however, that (if I remember correctly) that the shipping option was only available for two of their engravers.
> 
> Yes, I had wanted one of their 'rail system' engravers, and had desired one with a fair bit more oomph to it.  At the very least, I would have gotten one quite similar to the one I already have - which would have been their 1500mW engraver, that would have been 500mW more than what mine is.
> 
> But I went ahead and ordered another 1000mW NeJe.  Al least I would have a spare, on hand.  If one of the laser modules happened to go bad, I wouldn't have to wait for the time involved to order another, and have it shipped to me - to continue with my projects.



Just the laser diodes are available on Amazon from domestic suppliers.  I found a few even before I got my unit.


----------



## hanau

Bob Kardell said:


> chartle said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob Kardell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does any know of a rotary attachment for a 40w CLE (Chinese laser engraver)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post a pic or a link?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Click to expand...


I am in the process of trying to build one. I am currently milling the plate to it right now. It should be done in a little bit, ill post pictures of it.


----------



## hanau

posted a couple pictures in the k40 laser link


----------



## NLAlston

[/QUOTE]

Just the laser diodes are available on Amazon from domestic suppliers.  I found a few even before I got my unit.[/QUOTE]

Now THAT is very refreshing.

One question, though, Cliff:  do you know whether or not higher laser diodes can be purchased, and operated from these units?  I'm wondering if the higher power would rest within the diodes, themselves, or if there would be reliance on other components (to be upgraded) of the device.  

Was just wondering .


----------



## duncsuss

> do you know whether or not higher laser diodes can be purchased, and operated from these units?  I'm wondering if the higher power would rest within the diodes, themselves, or if there would be reliance on other components (to be upgraded) of the device.



Higher power means higher current (amps).

It's almost certain that the rest of the electronic components in the circuit will be unable to deliver the additional current needed to drive a higher current through the laser diode.

So -- best case, you'd install an expensive laser diode rated at 40W and you'd be driving it at 1W or 1.5W (1000mW or 1500mW). Like having a Ferrari but never pushing the gas pedal beyond the first quarter inch.


----------



## NLAlston

duncsuss said:


> do you know whether or not higher laser diodes can be purchased, and operated from these units?  I'm wondering if the higher power would rest within the diodes, themselves, or if there would be reliance on other components (to be upgraded) of the device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Higher power means higher current (amps).
> 
> It's almost certain that the rest of the electronic components in the circuit will be unable to deliver the additional current needed to drive a higher current through the laser diode.
> 
> So -- best case, you'd install an expensive laser diode rated at 40W and you'd be driving it at 1W or 1.5W (1000mW or 1500mW). Like having a Ferrari but never pushing the gas pedal beyond the first quarter inch.
Click to expand...


Well, I wasn't thinking of going anywhere even near that high .  

I had just wondered whether, maybe, a 1500mW, 2500mW, or slightly stronger, could be used in the same 1000mW engraver.  I mean, if my laser module burned out, it would be nice to upgrade same to a bit stronger module.  

Wishful thinking, I know .


----------



## NLAlston

NLAlston said:


> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you know whether or not higher laser diodes can be purchased, and operated from these units?  I'm wondering if the higher power would rest within the diodes, themselves, or if there would be reliance on other components (to be upgraded) of the device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Higher power means higher current (amps).
> 
> It's almost certain that the rest of the electronic components in the circuit will be unable to deliver the additional current needed to drive a higher current through the laser diode.
> 
> So -- best case, you'd install an expensive laser diode rated at 40W and you'd be driving it at 1W or 1.5W (1000mW or 1500mW). Like having a Ferrari but never pushing the gas pedal beyond the first quarter inch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Well, I wasn't thinking of going anywhere even near that high .
> 
> I had just wondered whether, maybe, a 1500mW, 2500mW, or slightly stronger, could be used in the same 1000mW engraver.  I mean, if my laser module burned out, it would be nice to upgrade same to a bit stronger module.
> 
> Wishful thinking, I know .
Click to expand...


I just re-read your reply, again - but under much more wakeful eyes . And you seemed to have Made it more clear as to why something like that wouldn't work.

Thanks,


----------



## duncsuss

NLAlston said:


> I had just wondered whether, maybe, a 1500mW, 2500mW, or slightly stronger, could be used in the same 1000mW engraver.  I mean, if my laser module burned out, it would be nice to upgrade same to a bit stronger module.



There is a good possibility that the actual laser LED in your 1000mW unit could be replaced with a 1500mW or 2000mW component.

Typically it does not require a higher voltage to drive an LED rated for 2000mW(*) at the same intensity as one rated for 1000mW -- you simply get 1000mW out of it if that's what your circuit board is designed to deliver.

What it would do for you is reduce the probability of the LED burning out a second time, since it would not be driven at close to its maximum power rating.

Note (*): I believe this is not universally true, though -- significantly higher powered LEDs might not start to output light if the current is below a certain threshhold value


----------



## NLAlston

duncsuss said:


> NLAlston said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had just wondered whether, maybe, a 1500mW, 2500mW, or slightly stronger, could be used in the same 1000mW engraver.  I mean, if my laser module burned out, it would be nice to upgrade same to a bit stronger module.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a good possibility that the actual laser LED in your 1000mW unit could be replaced with a 1500mW or 2000mW component.
> 
> Typically it does not require a higher voltage to drive an LED rated for 2000mW(*) at the same intensity as one rated for 1000mW -- you simply get 1000mW out of it if that's what your circuit board is designed to deliver.
> 
> What it would do for you is reduce the probability of the LED burning out a second time, since it would not be driven at close to its maximum power rating.
> 
> Note (*): I believe this is not universally true, though -- significantly higher powered LEDs might not start to output light if the current is below a certain threshhold value
Click to expand...


Thanks, Duncan.


----------



## PMBROTH.NY

here is the 1500 mw version, which also has a battery in it.  I have this one, works great.  It also has bluetooth, you can use your phone, or tablet to print..  I also added a usb fan on top and on the side, that is connected to an external powered usb hub, which the printer is connected to.

NEJE DK - BL1500mw 550 x 550 Pixel Laser Engraver -$92.99 Online Shopping| GearBest.com


----------



## TonyL

Well, the inevitable happened. The laser apparently burned-out.  I always used a fan. It moved across the blank as if it was engraving and stopped burning. I will look through the thread to see which one folks are using to replace it. Does anyone know of a better quality laser diode (?) that is compatible with the Neje 1000mw housing?

Thanks!


----------



## NLAlston

TonyL said:


> Well, the inevitable happened. The laser apparently burned-out.  I always used a fan. It moved across the blank as if it was engraving and stopped burning. I will look through the thread to see which one folks are using to replace it. Does anyone know of a better quality laser diode (?) that is compatible with the Neje 1000mw housing?
> 
> Thanks!



I'm watching this, too.


----------



## TonyL

DigBaddy72 said:


> I have sold two pens with engraving on it.  I did have to go through two blanks in order to get it right. For some reason the engraver was off-setting the first row of pixels.  This only happened on the first burn.  Not sure if I should be concerned or not.  This is another reason why I have numerous "test" blanks turned for various sized pens.


 
Mine laser (the part that does the burning) died after about 25 engravings (all but two were fan cooled). My experience may be a one-off.


----------



## wood-of-1kind

TonyL said:


> DigBaddy72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have sold two pens with engraving on it.  I did have to go through two blanks in order to get it right. For some reason the engraver was off-setting the first row of pixels.  This only happened on the first burn.  Not sure if I should be concerned or not.  This is another reason why I have numerous "test" blanks turned for various sized pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine laser (the part that does the burning) died after about 25 engravings (all but two were fan cooled). My experience may be a one-off.
Click to expand...



I am at about 200+ engravings on the NEJE and so far so good. A fan is not used and am now wondering if it really does extend the life or not. This has been my experience so far and I am still very happy with the performance of this $100 machine.


----------



## TonyL

I am going to try replacing the USB cables as someone from an earlier post suggested. The light/laser still illuminates. It just doesn't get hot  enough to burn the wood. I also removed the back and checked the connection; they were all secure. If that doesn't work. I will buy another one.


----------



## aggie182

Random question.  I scanned through this thread and saw the answer go both ways.  Do you prefer to laser engrave before or after CA finish?  I have a guy that was a bunch of bolt actions, then he wanted to have them laser engraved with his company logo.  Should I turn the wood, sand it, then send it to him to laser engrave before I finish and press?  Or should I finish the pen and give him the completed, finished pen?  

Also, do certain woods take the laser better than others?  I'd imagine if the wood is too dark, the result would not be desirable.  Any certain woods to stay away from?


----------



## TonyL

I only engrave on pre-CA finishes. I don't know what everyone else does.


----------



## keithncsu

I typically do it pre-finish as well but have tried post CA and got it to work. I think burn time was like 70+. 

As far as woods that resist burning I haven't come across any. Of course as you mentioned it's mostly a color/darkness issue. Unless you plan to fill in with colored powders or paint. Then it wouldn't matter. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rick_G

I seem to get my cleanest burns on my CA finished wood with a burn time of about 70.  Whenever I tried unfinished wood the smoky residue around the burn rubbed into the wood and made a mess while with the finished wood it wiped right off.

I also picked up 3 spare laser diodes at $19 each.  I figure if the original lasts a year or two I would likely not be able to find spares then and they won't go bad sitting on my shelf.


----------



## chartle

aggie182 said:


> Also, do certain woods take the laser better than others?  I'd imagine if the wood is too dark, the result would not be desirable.  Any certain woods to stay away from?



In my tests I used what I had on hand Maple and Red Oak. Maple came out better because of the tighter grain.


----------



## mmayo

Finally managed to tweak Windows to show the entire engraving program on MY screen. Sanding sealer, engrave using 80 (too much for yellow heart), six coats of WTF (Woodcraft), sand with 1000 grit, buff using Beale System. 











My take = very glossy non- CA finish. No fumes.


----------



## KB8JXO

*OK, you talked me into it*

I spent three hours yesterday reading this entire thread, then broke down and order a 1000mw NEJE, and a spare diode unit. A lot of information to be had from everyone else from their experience. Now to find a USB powered fan.

Thanks everyone for filling my brain with ideas.


----------



## keithncsu

KB8JXO said:


> I spent three hours yesterday reading this entire thread, then broke down and order a 1000mw NEJE, and a spare diode unit. A lot of information to be had from everyone else from their experience. Now to find a USB powered fan.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for filling my brain with ideas.





I got my fan off Amazon for like $15. Nearly the exact same size as the perimeter of the laser frame. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## leehljp

I ordered the 1500mw today from eBay. They do run about $20 - $30 more than the 1000mw. I did pay for the ones shipped from within the US to get it faster.


----------



## TonyL

My fan didn't help, but I guess it didn't hurt. I still use it with my new unit though.


----------



## DJBPenmaker

I've taken the plunge as well and ordered the 1500mW version (I love gadgets) just got to wait a few weeks before it arrives 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## chartle

KB8JXO said:


> I spent three hours yesterday reading this entire thread, then broke down and order a 1000mw NEJE, and a spare diode unit. A lot of information to be had from everyone else from their experience. Now to find a USB powered fan.
> 
> Thanks everyone for filling my brain with ideas.



Got one from Walmart for less than $10. Rechargeable from USB also will run from USB.

Looks like this one but no way paid $17.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-Shift-...eable-USB-Fan-Black-for-Car-Outdoor/779877262


----------



## Magicbob

Rotary Attachment in stock and shipping
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f350/360-mini-usb-engraver-rotary-jig-neje-type-mini-lasers-149146/


----------



## DJBPenmaker

Magicbob said:


> Rotary Attachment in stock and shipping
> http://www.penturners.org/forum/f350/360-mini-usb-engraver-rotary-jig-neje-type-mini-lasers-149146/


I'm getting a security pop up when I click on the link blocking me from going there.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Magicbob

DJBPenmaker said:


> Magicbob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rotary Attachment in stock and shipping
> http://www.penturners.org/forum/f350/360-mini-usb-engraver-rotary-jig-neje-type-mini-lasers-149146/
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting a security pop up when I click on the link blocking me from going there.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


I don't know why, it is a link to the vendor page here on IAP
If it still don't work, just go the tshadow in the vendor section or directly to our website


----------



## mmayo

*A couple of Roadsters engraved*

I tried engraving after the pen was made and finished.  I removed the upper tube from a Roadster pen and with a little leveling managed to burn it.  This technique might be nice if someone wants an existing pen personalized, maybe.


----------



## duncsuss

Magicbob said:


> Rotary Attachment in stock and shipping
> http://www.penturners.org/forum/f350/360-mini-usb-engraver-rotary-jig-neje-type-mini-lasers-149146/



Mine is on its way -- thanks for the speedy processing :biggrin:


----------



## SkewedUp

I got my new and improved laser jig from T. Shadow & Co. yesterday and can't wait to try it out. The note from Bob says that I'm one of the first to get the new and improved laser jig. Thanks Bob!

It is so new that the instructions for it are not yet available so I checked the website to see if they have new instructions yet. Not yet, but no worries, my Meterk laser that I ordered on the same day as the TSC jig will not get here until Thursday (4 days from today). 

I feel lucky to have received the new jig design and wanted to give a shout out to Bob and TSC for sending me the new jig. From first impressions, I can see that it obviously has all-thread instead of the plastic shaft. The whole kit looks very sturdy and functional and I'm really looking forward to trying it out on a couple of pen etchings soon. 

Since I cannot include a link to the new jig I thought I'd include a picture of it instead.


----------



## budnder

SkewedUp said:


> my Meterk laser



I had to do quite a bit of trimming on the laser jig I received to get it to fit on the red Meterk base plate - I'll be kinda curious if you run into the same thing. 

One thing that confused me a bit also was that the piece that slides on the end of the tray (same thing I had to trim) will "bang" into the laser frame when you power it up. At first I was thinking this was an issue with there not being enough clearance left, but then I noticed that even without the jig on, the tray seems to always try to go to it's limit when you power it up. So maybe that's by design - the laser tray always seeks it's limit when started.


----------



## SkewedUp

I'll let you know when I get my laser Roy.


----------



## philb

Just got my 1500mw, been messing for an hour now and can't get a single mark to show on any tests!

Tried adjusting the focus, fast and slow burn times. Reinstalling drivers etc. Nothing!! Everything moves likes it's going to burn but nothing shows!

Any ideas, before it gets a hammer!!


----------



## duncsuss

philb said:


> Just got my 1500mw, been messing for an hour now and can't get a single mark to show on any tests!
> 
> Tried adjusting the focus, fast and slow burn times. Reinstalling drivers etc. Nothing!! Everything moves likes it's going to burn but nothing shows!
> 
> Any ideas, before it gets a hammer!!



Sounds like the power feed is insufficient. Do you have it plugged into a USB port on a computer? Perhaps try a USB charger unit, they can often deliver more amps than the PC ports.


----------



## philb

duncsuss said:


> philb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my 1500mw, been messing for an hour now and can't get a single mark to show on any tests!
> 
> Tried adjusting the focus, fast and slow burn times. Reinstalling drivers etc. Nothing!! Everything moves likes it's going to burn but nothing shows!
> 
> Any ideas, before it gets a hammer!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like the power feed is insufficient. Do you have it plugged into a USB port on a computer? Perhaps try a USB charger unit, they can often deliver more amps than the PC ports.
Click to expand...


Straight into a laptop that's mains connected. 

Assume if needs a double USB cable, but the 1500 only has the single USB input, not the dual likenon the 1000?


----------



## duncsuss

philb said:


> duncsuss said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> philb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my 1500mw, been messing for an hour now and can't get a single mark to show on any tests!
> 
> Tried adjusting the focus, fast and slow burn times. Reinstalling drivers etc. Nothing!! Everything moves likes it's going to burn but nothing shows!
> 
> Any ideas, before it gets a hammer!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like the power feed is insufficient. Do you have it plugged into a USB port on a computer? Perhaps try a USB charger unit, they can often deliver more amps than the PC ports.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Straight into a laptop that's mains connected.
> 
> Assume if needs a double USB cable, but the 1500 only has the single USB input, not the dual likenon the 1000?
Click to expand...


Mine is the 1000mW which has 2 USB connections -- I believe one of them is for power to the laser, the other for data (image) and control signals. I don't know how the 1500mW unit is configured so I'll hush now and let somebody who knows what they're talking about pick up the pieces


----------



## SkewedUp

Just got my Meterk 1500 going after a lot of guessing on how to translate Engrish to something I can understand.

The unit only has 1 USB cable which I connected directly to my desktop running Windows 7 (I know, I know ). 

By the way, the Meterk 1500 has a cooling fan above the laser which is what I was hoping for, and the reason I chose Meterk over NEJE. I'm very happy with that, and am hoping that will help extend the life of the laser. Also, the laser unit was loose and I had to tighten the screws on it quite a bit which made it easier to adjust the laser focus.

After downloading the driver and software from Trusfer website and going through the instructions carefully trying to follow them to the best of our ability (better half was helping), we finally got it to work. The most obvious problem was that I had to actually turn the unit on before the software would work (that seemed a little out of order to me, but the instructions were actually correct).

By the way, the on/off switch is located behind an impossibly small opening in the back of the unit that my pinky finger barely fit into to switch the unit on and off.

The software is equally confusing and required some experimenting before we finally got it figured out enough to etch a test in the cardboard sample that came with the unit. High fives all around when that worked! 

Next up was to personalize a couple of No. 2 pencils by etching my company name on one and my 2 grandsons names on another two pencils. Success again! Beer all around this time :biggrin:

I didn't want to take the unit back to my photo booth, so my pictures are from my phone and may not be the best quality. Also, the desk is pretty messy. 

I put all 3 pencils under the rubber bands for the pictures only. I etched each pencil separately. You can see that one of the etchings was not accurately centered in the center of the "flat" on the pencil causing the etching to go around the edge a bit. It still etched just fine, so I'm guessing it would do the same thing on a round pen, without a pen jig, for a simple one line etching like these. Next up will be to set up the TSC pen jig and start experimenting with it, but first...more beer :beer:


----------



## SkewedUp

Yes Roy, I had to drill a couple of holes in the side pieces to let the mandrel move forward enough to get the laser centered on my pen blanks. I also have the same problem that when the unit is turned on the table goes through the motions from front to back and hits the "bed huggers". At first I  would just remove the front bed hugger before powering the unit up, but then I decided to just leave the unit powered on all day and removed the bed hugger when I was done for the day. Brilliant! NOT! Just now I discovered that the light will not focus no matter how much I twist the adjustment. Looks like leaving it on all the time was not the best idea I've ever had. 

I have no idea if the laser works or not because I'm going to let it "rest" for today and try it tomorrow. I also don't know where to get a replacement, but I will probably have to find out. I bought the laser from Amazon so it might be covered under warranty.

Luckily, I got a few pens etched before it crapped out. I tried to keep it cool and not over-use it, but it sure was fun to play with for a couple of days. :wink:

So now I'm wondering if anyone else has run into a similar situation with their laser and if so, what they had to do to fix it. Any help would be much appreciated.



budnder said:


> SkewedUp said:
> 
> 
> 
> my Meterk laser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to do quite a bit of trimming on the laser jig I received to get it to fit on the red Meterk base plate - I'll be kinda curious if you run into the same thing.
> 
> One thing that confused me a bit also was that the piece that slides on the end of the tray (same thing I had to trim) will "bang" into the laser frame when you power it up. At first I was thinking this was an issue with there not being enough clearance left, but then I noticed that even without the jig on, the tray seems to always try to go to it's limit when you power it up. So maybe that's by design - the laser tray always seeks it's limit when started.
Click to expand...


----------



## mecompco

SkewedUp said:


> Yes Roy, I had to drill a couple of holes in the side pieces to let the mandrel move forward enough to get the laser centered on my pen blanks. I also have the same problem that when the unit is turned on the table goes through the motions from front to back and hits the "bed huggers". At first I  would just remove the front bed hugger before powering the unit up, but then I decided to just leave the unit powered on all day and removed the bed hugger when I was done for the day. Brilliant! NOT! Just now I discovered that the light will not focus no matter how much I twist the adjustment. Looks like leaving it on all the time was not the best idea I've ever had.
> 
> I have no idea if the laser works or not because I'm going to let it "rest" for today and try it tomorrow. I also don't know where to get a replacement, but I will probably have to find out. I bought the laser from Amazon so it might be covered under warranty.
> 
> Luckily, I got a few pens etched before it crapped out. I tried to keep it cool and not over-use it, but it sure was fun to play with for a couple of days. :wink:
> 
> So now I'm wondering if anyone else has run into a similar situation with their laser and if so, what they had to do to fix it. Any help would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> budnder said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SkewedUp said:
> 
> 
> 
> my Meterk laser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to do quite a bit of trimming on the laser jig I received to get it to fit on the red Meterk base plate - I'll be kinda curious if you run into the same thing.
> 
> One thing that confused me a bit also was that the piece that slides on the end of the tray (same thing I had to trim) will "bang" into the laser frame when you power it up. At first I was thinking this was an issue with there not being enough clearance left, but then I noticed that even without the jig on, the tray seems to always try to go to it's limit when you power it up. So maybe that's by design - the laser tray always seeks it's limit when started.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


I got my replacement diode on eBay for around $22.00. Not sure if they are available elsewhere.


----------



## wood-of-1kind

Gearbest sells replacement laser heads for their NEJE.


----------



## ericofpendom

I actually saw a live demo at our woodturning club last month on the Neje laser engraver. It was the 1 watt version but the demonstrator said that he would have bout the 1.5 watt version if he was buying one now. It did an excellent job on a slimline pen (about 9mm diameter) and there was no visible difference on the arc, it is such a slight change in focal length on such a small diameter. He demonstrated it on paper and thin card as well and the results were very good. Easy to setup and use. I have searched for them since seeing the demo and I can buy the 1.5 watt version that has a built in rechargeable battery for around £80. This makes it completely portable. I just wish I could justify one but he said that there doesn't seem to be enough call for engraving to get his money back any time soon.


----------



## duncsuss

ericofpendom said:


> I just wish I could justify one but he said that there doesn't seem to be enough call for engraving to get his money back any time soon.



I recouped the cost of mine in two pens -- not because I jacked up the price, but because the buyers wouldn't have been interested without the engraving.

Imagine if you got your hands on some old panelling or seating from Macron Stadium, make a few pens and burn "C'mon Trotters!" on them. I'd think you could sell a few.


----------



## Rick_G

ericofpendom said:


> I just wish I could justify one but he said that there doesn't seem to be enough call for engraving to get his money back any time soon.



About 95% of my pens get given away and to get one engraved cost me $20 each time so needless to say few got engraved.  4 pens for friends and relatives and it paid for itself.  I also do other woodworking so I am able to engrave small disks that I place somewhere with my name, date and type of wood.  Works great to place in the bottom of bowls I make.  I got the 1000 mw. version and it has plenty of power for the wood I engrave.  

Looks to be a bit more expensive where you are though.


----------



## SkewedUp

I found a replacement laser on Amazon here 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGVC25H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought one and it arrived yesterday but I have not tried it yet. There is a less expensive one that is for the NEJE 1500 but the pic looks slightly different than this one which is specifically for the Meterk. 

I think I'll try replacing the lens without removing the laser first and see what happens.


----------



## chartle

SkewedUp said:


> I found a replacement laser on Amazon here
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGVC25H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I bought one and it arrived yesterday but I have not tried it yet. There is a less expensive one that is for the NEJE 1500 but the pic looks slightly different than this one which is specifically for the Meterk.
> 
> I think I'll try replacing the lens without removing the laser first and see what happens.



Not sure how just replacing the lens is going to fix a burned out laser.


----------



## SkewedUp

Nor do I Cliff.

On my unit, the light will not focus but I've tried etching without being able to focus and it burned once and did not another time. I'm doing pens on a rotary jig and some flat work too so I had to just guess at where to twist the lens. That makes me wonder if it is just the lens that needs replaced. 

I may try that tonight and see what happens if I get back from a grandson's baseball game in time to test it out.


----------



## budnder

Not sure if it's just my unit or not, but there's a lot of sideways play in the lens when I turn the focus ring. I can put a little pressure on the side of the focus ring and move the laser focus point around maybe 5mm or so in any direction. It stays put wherever I move it, so it's not like I'm just bending something. But I've never had any issues with it focusing. 

I made a little cardboard disk that friction fits tight around the lens and give me something bigger and more precise to focus with. I see where some people have a 3D printed version of that, but the 5 minute cardboard version seems to work fine also. I also found that using a dark piece of construction paper on the target makes it a lot easier to focus (the dark surface knocks down the brightness that makes it hard to determine in and out of focus).

I too have purchased the Amazon.com replacement laser, but haven't opened the box up - just bought it as a backup, though I'm not 100% sure it will fit my Mertek.


----------



## Dale Allen

budnder said:


> Not sure if it's just my unit or not, but there's a lot of sideways play in the lens when I turn the focus ring. I can put a little pressure on the side of the focus ring and move the laser focus point around maybe 5mm or so in any direction. It stays put wherever I move it, so it's not like I'm just bending something. But I've never had any issues with it focusing.



Mine does this too so I unscrewed the focus ring to see whats-what.
There is a spring behind it to keep pressure on the lens assembly.  As far as I can tell the issue is that the threads on the inside are larger then the threads on the focus ring.  Odd as it seems the 2 do not have a good thread match.
Probably the parts were made in 2 different Chinese factories and they were not concerned much with QC.


----------



## SkewedUp

*It is working now*

Well I have no idea how it happened but the focus is working again. I completely unscrewed the lens, put it back on and just for grins tried it and it is working again. And the laser is etching perfectly now. Unbelievable. 

At least I have a backup unit now if I need it.

And thanks Roy for the tip. I tried making a cardboard ring that fit on the lens grip and it works absolutely fantastic. I used a 7/16 forstner bit to make a hole in a piece of cardboard off a small cardboard box, rough cut a larger circle with scissors and placed it on the lens. Now it is so much easier to make adjustments to the focus. 

Thanks to everyone for your assistance!


----------



## Bret

Hi
I have great interest in a Neje Laser engraver with additional kit for 360 rotation.
What model can you recommend and to byu it? Which laser glasses can you recommend for this light wave 405 (oled 3 or 4)?

I Found this webside: trusfer.com

Thank you
Regards Reto


----------



## Magicbob

I use a DK1500 laser with one of our 360 deg rotary jigs. 
Available at T. Shadow & Co. LLC


----------



## SkewedUp

I got the Meterk 1500 because it has a cooling fan directly above the laser unit. I'm not sure if other brands have that or not, but there was a lot of discussion concerning cooling the unit down with external fans so it made sense to try the Meterk.

I also have the T Shadow & Co. rotary jig linked to above which has performed well and customer service has been fantastic too.

I really have not had any issues with the laser light - the glasses provided with the Meterk work just fine and help pinpoint the focus. Watching the laser while it is operating has not bothered my eyes.

Good luck!


----------



## Akula

*In need of the software*

Anyone got a link to download the original laser software in the thread?  I had mine packed away for some time and need to do something...of course a new computer since storage of the laser...and I have no idea where the software is now.  I've looked on truster...tried several downloads and none work.  Ones I did get to install, would not allow me to "Drag Image" to burn. Of course the little laser has no id of model.

Thanks


----------



## Rick_G

Akula said:


> Anyone got a link to download the original laser software in the thread?  I had mine packed away for some time and need to do something...of course a new computer since storage of the laser...and I have no idea where the software is now.  I've looked on truster...tried several downloads and none work.  Ones I did get to install, would not allow me to "Drag Image" to burn. Of course the little laser has no id of model.
> 
> Thanks



Did you install the driver as well or just the burning software, you need both.  Here is a link to the one on trusfer, if that doesn't work for you I can load mine to my website and you could download from there.

http://www.trusfer.com/Download/(drive%20and%20software).zip


----------



## Akula

I've loaded both

I'll check out the link.  Thanks


----------



## Akula

No cigar.

Everything loads and installs.  When I try and "drag an image into the area"...I get the Red Circle.


----------



## Akula

OK, installed it now on w win7 computer.  It all went fine this time, I could send the image into the software.

Now it traces out the size but when I click "Start", laser fires one point...then just returns to center.

Guess it's now junk 

I had so much fun with it but I had it put into the closet until I recovered (heart attack in 2015).  Just now getting out all the toys to play (lathe, laser ect).


----------



## PMBROTH.NY

If you have a 3d printer, here are two rotary jigs for a neje type laser engraver. Mine is the mertek and it works perfectly.  Mine is the first jig I made - with the aztec pattern on the pen.  Enjoy

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2390828

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2684349

.


----------



## Talltim

PMBROTH.NY said:


> If you have a 3d printer, here are two rotary jigs for a neje type laser engraver. Mine is the mertek and it works perfectly.  Mine is the first jig I made - with the aztec pattern on the pen.  Enjoy
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2390828
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2684349
> 
> .





Thanks, we just ordered our neje 1500 today. We will print up the jig and have one ready for when it arrives. 

It is amazing the things you can find on thingiverse. We have a few items we 3D printed in our shop that we use on a regular basis. .


----------



## PMBROTH.NY

Talltim said:


> PMBROTH.NY said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you have a 3d printer, here are two rotary jigs for a neje type laser engraver. Mine is the mertek and it works perfectly.  Mine is the first jig I made - with the aztec pattern on the pen.  Enjoy
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2390828
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2684349
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, we just ordered our neje 1500 today. We will print up the jig and have one ready for when it arrives.
> 
> It is amazing the things you can find on thingiverse. We have a few items we 3D printed in our shop that we use on a regular basis. .
Click to expand...






There is a lot of good stuff. If you have questions let me know, but it should be straight forward.   

Brian 



Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## Hoover015

*Laser Engraver*

I purchased a Neje 1500 a couple of months ago. I ran across a video on YouTube by T, Shadow and Co. They sell a rotary attachment for the Neje. As I recall it cost around $45.00 and works pretty good.

Gary


----------



## sbwertz

*Need new laser for neje 1500mw*

Two of our Neje 1500mw lasers failed within a couple of days of one another.  Both were bought mid summer.  The two bought last Christmas are both working fine.  Sounds like maybe they had a bad batch of lasers?

Anyway I need to buy a new laser head, and I think I will buy an extra for each laser just in case.  They used to be available for about $20 but are hard to find right now (everyone having to replace them?)  Amazon has them for $30 and up.  Anyone know where I can get them for less?  I've been borrowing a burner from a friend to use at the Center for the Blind until I can get mine fixed.


----------



## KiwiBob

I purchased two lazer heads from Aliexpress for $17ea
They arrived in NZ less than a week


----------



## TonyL

ebay for $21, but took > 3 weeks to arrive. my second neje arrived in < 10. I have regular orders 4 engraved pens. I wonder if spending 400 or 500 gets me out of the "toy" level?


----------



## rickterscale

Hey folks. First thank you all for the info you've shared here. It's been really helpful. I recently purchased the NEJE DK-8-KZ from Gearbest. I can't get the software to work or connect to the engraver.

I downloaded the driver/software package from Trusfer.com as the instructions recommend. I didn't run into any problems with my anti-virus software. The driver successfully installed/downloaded. But when I open the program with the engraver connected, all I get is "Auto Connecting" with the swirling icon, and it never gets past that. I know the engraver is powered and connected because when I connect it to my laptop, the engraver and platform zip around for a couple seconds. 

So I'm not sure what to do here. Has anyone run into this issue or have any suggestions? I've tried on two different computers, both running Windows 10, and get the same result.


----------



## KiwiBob

Mine did this also. I found that removing the USB plug from the computer then plugging it back it agin solved the problem


----------



## KiwiBob

Has anyone got software for the NEJE that will work on a Mac?


----------



## rickterscale

KiwiBob said:


> Mine did this also. I found that removing the USB plug from the computer then plugging it back it agin solved the problem



Thanks Bob. So after starting up the program with the engraver connected and you get the "Auto Connecting", you just pull the usb plug and then re-insert it? Tried that and it still isn't getting past "Auto Connecting". 

Any other ideas anyone?


----------



## wood-of-1kind

rickterscale said:


> Hey folks. First thank you all for the info you've shared here. It's been really helpful. I recently purchased the NEJE DK-8-KZ from Gearbest. I can't get the software to work or connect to the engraver.
> 
> I downloaded the driver/software package from Trusfer.com as the instructions recommend. I didn't run into any problems with my anti-virus software. The driver successfully installed/downloaded. But when I open the program with the engraver connected, all I get is "Auto Connecting" with the swirling icon, and it never gets past that. I know the engraver is powered and connected because when I connect it to my laptop, the engraver and platform zip around for a couple seconds.
> 
> So I'm not sure what to do here. Has anyone run into this issue or have any suggestions? I've tried on two different computers, both running Windows 10, and get the same result.




My NEJE can't run in Windows 10, can this be the problem???
Compatibility issue perhaps? Just a thought.


----------



## DJBPenmaker

The usb lead supplied with the laser causes untold amounts of problems, they are complete rubbish. Most people find replacing it with a new quality lead solves the issue.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## DJBPenmaker

wood-of-1kind said:


> rickterscale said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey folks. First thank you all for the info you've shared here. It's been really helpful. I recently purchased the NEJE DK-8-KZ from Gearbest. I can't get the software to work or connect to the engraver.
> 
> I downloaded the driver/software package from Trusfer.com as the instructions recommend. I didn't run into any problems with my anti-virus software. The driver successfully installed/downloaded. But when I open the program with the engraver connected, all I get is "Auto Connecting" with the swirling icon, and it never gets past that. I know the engraver is powered and connected because when I connect it to my laptop, the engraver and platform zip around for a couple seconds.
> 
> So I'm not sure what to do here. Has anyone run into this issue or have any suggestions? I've tried on two different computers, both running Windows 10, and get the same result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NEJE can't run in Windows 10, can this be the problem???
> Compatibility issue perhaps? Just a thought.
Click to expand...

My Neje 1500 runs in Windows 10 without any problems.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


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## Bill in Buena Park

I haven't had any issues running the NEJE on my Windows 10 computer, but it did act wonky once when I had incorrectly swapped the connections to the computer versus the power supply.  It looked like it was going to work (the laser head moved, etc), then gave me an error message (don't recall what it said) in the software.  I'm also using a 2.0a USB power supply, since I've heard that under-powered power supplies also cause wonky behavior.


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## leehljp

KiwiBob said:


> Has anyone got software for the NEJE that will work on a Mac?



Bob,

Here is a link that gives some Mac insights:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/neje-1500-help-149315/

And another one:

Design With Neje Laser Engraver on Mac OSX: 6 Steps

It seems like there was a more detailed one somewhere but I cannot find it now.


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## TonyL

I had much success with the standard download for windows 10, but couldn't get it to loade on my newest computer. I finally succeeded with this version: NejeLaserPrintExtended.


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## rickterscale

TonyL said:


> I had much success with the standard download for windows 10, but couldn't get it to loade on my newest computer. I finally succeeded with this version: NejeLaserPrintExtended.



Tony, do you have a link for that? Thanks.


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## KiwiBob

Thanks for the links Hank
The second link you suggested is dead.
The first link has several  suggested links to software solutions but are now dead.
So still looking.
I cant find Dbeam anywhere


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## rickterscale

I got it working. Apparently the software package from the trusfer site didn't work with my machine, or I was trying to use the wrong one (there are many options). It worked using the software from the CD that came with the machine. Thanks folks!


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## mmayo

*Something else to engrave*

Quick success. Frig magnets from my community.


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## TonyL

https://sourceforge.net/projects/neje-laser-engraver-extended/


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## TonyL

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by TonyL  View Post
> I had much success with the standard download for windows 10, but couldn't get it to loade on my newest computer. I finally succeeded with this version: NejeLaserPrintExtended.
> Tony, do you have a link for that? Thanks.


See above


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## leehljp

KiwiBob said:


> Thanks for the links Hank
> The second link you suggested is dead.
> The first link has several  suggested links to software solutions but are now dead.
> So still looking.
> I cant find Dbeam anywhere



Bob,

Try a different browser if you have one. Both links are working for me, and the first one is from this forum. It should work.


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## Dale Allen

TonyL said:


> https://sourceforge.net/projects/neje-laser-engraver-extended/



Tony;

Is there a separate file to use for connecting this to the PC?
I can get the program to load but it will not make the connection to the engraver.  Is it perhaps necessary to uninstall the other version?


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## chartle

Dale Allen said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://sourceforge.net/projects/neje-laser-engraver-extended/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tony;
> 
> Is there a separate file to use for connecting this to the PC?
> I can get the program to load but it will not make the connection to the engraver.  Is it perhaps necessary to uninstall the other version?
Click to expand...


There should have also been a driver install somewhere.


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## pappyultra

I have the NEJE-DK-8-KZ it works as long as the font is not large for the barrel. There is some smoke, I use a small fan, I also use the dark glasses that came with the machine. It was $ 79.95 on eBay. Software was simple to install on an old lap top. I also have seen a set up made on a 3D printer that rotates the work piece while the table is moving front to back, I can’t remember where, but I know u can get one'


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


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## DJBPenmaker

pappyultra said:


> I have the NEJE-DK-8-KZ it works as long as the font is not large for the barrel. There is some smoke, I use a small fan, I also use the dark glasses that came with the machine. It was $ 79.95 on eBay. Software was simple to install on an old lap top. I also have seen a set up made on a 3D printer that rotates the work piece while the table is moving front to back, I can’t remember where, but I know u can get one'
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


Benson Pace does such a jig.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


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## TonyL

Well I definitely jinxed myself..now I can't get my engraver to see my com port. My computer sees the right comm port, but my engraver can't see it. Don't know what else to try...but I am sure it can be figured out.


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## philb

Well I sent my non-working 1500 back and now have a replacement, which amazingly for me works straight out of the box!

Managed to get burnings into the paper and plywood flat pieces, but on trying a raw wood blank it seems to be burning less deeply. I've adjusted the foacal length to as small as I can see. Burn time also on maximum, but not giving a very deep burn, if any. I know Beech is fairly hard timber, but have seen harder being burnt on this thread. 

Anyone have any burn time examples etc for woods?

Cheers


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## mecompco

philb said:


> Well I sent my non-working 1500 back and now have a replacement, which amazingly for me works straight out of the box!
> 
> Managed to get burnings into the paper and plywood flat pieces, but on trying a raw wood blank it seems to be burning less deeply. I've adjusted the foacal length to as small as I can see. Burn time also on maximum, but not giving a very deep burn, if any. I know Beech is fairly hard timber, but have seen harder being burnt on this thread.
> 
> Anyone have any burn time examples etc for woods?
> 
> Cheers



I've been using "80" to engrave tight-grained Black Walnut (with a Tru-Oil finish). BOW finished with CA I believe I run a little shorter. It's always best to test an unturned blank if you're not sure. I have the NEJE 1W, so I'd think your 1.5W shouldn't have any problem with Beech.


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## Magicbob

pappyultra said:


> I have the NEJE-DK-8-KZ it works as long as the font is not large for the barrel. There is some smoke, I use a small fan, I also use the dark glasses that came with the machine. It was $ 79.95 on eBay. Software was simple to install on an old lap top. I also have seen a set up made on a 3D printer that rotates the work piece while the table is moving front to back, I can’t remember where, but I know u can get one'
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app



We sell the Mike Shortness designed rotary jig on our website
T. Shadow & Co. LLC


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## philb

mecompco said:


> philb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I sent my non-working 1500 back and now have a replacement, which amazingly for me works straight out of the box!
> 
> Managed to get burnings into the paper and plywood flat pieces, but on trying a raw wood blank it seems to be burning less deeply. I've adjusted the foacal length to as small as I can see. Burn time also on maximum, but not giving a very deep burn, if any. I know Beech is fairly hard timber, but have seen harder being burnt on this thread.
> 
> Anyone have any burn time examples etc for woods?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using "80" to engrave tight-grained Black Walnut (with a Tru-Oil finish). BOW finished with CA I believe I run a little shorter. It's always best to test an unturned blank if you're not sure. I have the NEJE 1W, so I'd think your 1.5W shouldn't have any problem with Beech.
Click to expand...


Thanks, maybe it's more of a focus issue then! Have tried it on '120' and still quite faint. 
More experimenting needed, seems that focusing the laser is the hardest part with these little ones


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## mecompco

philb said:


> mecompco said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> philb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I sent my non-working 1500 back and now have a replacement, which amazingly for me works straight out of the box!
> 
> Managed to get burnings into the paper and plywood flat pieces, but on trying a raw wood blank it seems to be burning less deeply. I've adjusted the foacal length to as small as I can see. Burn time also on maximum, but not giving a very deep burn, if any. I know Beech is fairly hard timber, but have seen harder being burnt on this thread.
> 
> Anyone have any burn time examples etc for woods?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using "80" to engrave tight-grained Black Walnut (with a Tru-Oil finish). BOW finished with CA I believe I run a little shorter. It's always best to test an unturned blank if you're not sure. I have the NEJE 1W, so I'd think your 1.5W shouldn't have any problem with Beech.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks, maybe it's more of a focus issue then! Have tried it on '120' and still quite faint.
> More experimenting needed, seems that focusing the laser is the hardest part with these little ones
Click to expand...


Focus is important, but at 120 you should be getting a dark burn. If the focus is horribly out, the burn will look fuzzy as the "dot" is spread out. Just go for the smallest dot you can and it should be good. I'm wondering if your replacement unit is good.


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## philb

Seemed to burn on the flat plywood they supplied with it fine, but on 'proper' woods it's struggling! 

Getting nowhere near as deep looking burn as most examples on this thread!


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## duncsuss

Magicbob said:


> We sell the Mike Shortness designed rotary jig on our website



I was one of the early purchasers of the rotary jig (last July) back when the axle was plastic and a bit flimsy -- I contacted you about it then and you confirmed it was a weak point in the design.

Do you offer a special rate to upgrade to the newer "stronger axle" design that you're now selling?


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## philb

Seems to be a bit more dialled in now, thanks for the help and advice on here!!

25 down only 25 more to burn!!

[yt]https://youtu.be/bgiYjWDR_xc[/yt]


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