# CA Finish



## texaswoodworker

I finally got all the supplies I need to do CA finishes, The is only one problem... I do not know where to begin. I know everybody has their own way of doing CA finishes but I at least need to know how to start developing my own process. Does anybody have any tips on how to develop a high gloss CA finish?

Thanks


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## Mark

You will likely get a ton of different suggestions/methods. The way I went about it, was to slap some CA on a slimline. Did it work? did it cover? then I began refining my technique(s).

Then I watched a couple of videos on you tube. I picked a method that I had all the materials for and tried that. In three of four pens, I found a routine that worked for me, but the finish is always evolving (hopefully for the better). Good Luck...


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## gketell

The first thing you should know is that there are as many ways to do  CA as there are turners.  Many people will use a CA/BLO combination but  for me adding BLO causes me more trouble than it solves because BLO can  absorb water and water is the nemesis of CA.  I've also found that my  body oil will screw up the finish so once I start sanding the blank I  never touch the blank unless I'm wearing nitrile gloves.

To learn this method it is easier to use dark blanks so you can see the contrast better.

So here is my method.


After turning your blank and sanding it down to 400 grit I apply two quick coats of thin CA as a "sealer" and "grain popper".
Slow your lathe down to around 500-750 RPM.
Take a paper towel and fold it so you have about 1" to 1-1/2" edge.   I  use Viva under the theory that smoother paper towels make it easier  to  make a smooth finish.  But I have also done this with Bounty and it   works great.
Hold the paper towel under the blank touching lightly to catch the excess CA and keep it from being thrown everywhere.
Dribble thin CA across the blank so you apply just enough to wet the wood from end to end.
Let the CA dry naturally then tear off the CA-soaked end of the paper towel and apply a second layer using the same method.

After the thin CA is dry remove the metal bushings from your pen and  replace them with undersized "finishing" bushings of Delrin or UHMW  plastic.  I just my own bushings so they are cone shaped so they don't  get in the way of the following steps.
OK, now you want to actually apply the "finish" of the pen which will be 4-6 coats of medium-thick CA.
Get and prepare your paper towel the same way.
Dribble a bead of CA across the end of the paper towel and bring it  up to the bottom of the slowly spinning blank.  This is done so the  paper towel is already wet and won't just suck the applied CA off the  blank.
As the blank spins dribble another thin layer of CA across the top  of the blank and move your paper towel back and forth just until the CA  is smooth.
Grab your spray bottle of aerosol CA accelerator.  I don't use the  pump style because they apply too big droplets and the CA dries too  evenly.  Spray the blank lightly in a light mist of accelerator.
Wait about 30-seconds then apply a second coat the same way.
Repeat steps 3-5 until you have 4 layers of thick or 6 layers of medium.
Let dry for a minimum of 5-10 minutes but as long as you like.  Some  friends will just hang the blanks for a couple of days before moving  on.

Now it is time to sand the blanks down.  The goal is to sand off  just the high spots and ridges without ever sanding down the low spots.   The way to do this is to use a sanding block backing the sand paper.   My block is just a 1-1/2" wide block that was not pretty enough to be  cut into the 2 pen blanks it was designed to be.  Always sand with this  block behind your sandpaper and you will be happy.  Also use fresh sand  paper that hasn't been used on wood before.  You'll see why in a bit.
I  usually start with 220 grit but if it is really really really rough I  might go down to 180.  And if I made it really smooth, start at 320.
If you have any "unusual" high spots use your blocked sand paper and  spot sand it down to to match the rest of the blank with the pen  stopped.
Once the blank is "evenly" rough you can turn your lathe on to slow  speed and move the block back and forth quickly so you create an 'X'  pattern in your sanding.
Continue sanding until all you achieve a uniform, dull finish.  You  will probably have to stop and wipe the blank off to determine if there  are any shiny low-spots left.  Keep going until their are none.
Once it is all even stop the lathe and sand lengthwise until all the 'X's are gone.
Now check your sandpaper.  If there is any "dark" spots, you have  gone through the CA and have hit your wood.  Apply more CA and start  over.
Switch to your next finer grit and repeat steps 4-6.  Repeat until you finish with 400 grit.
Remove the blank from the lathe and end-mill the blank to square it  up again.  Very high speed and very very light touch will keep it from  chipping the finish.  Make sure you go until it shines the tubes up  again.  You could also use an end-sander if you have one.  That way you  have zero chance of chipping the finish.
Apply a little thin CA to the newly cut ends of your blank to seal them again.
Return the blank to the lathe and repeat steps 4-6 with 0000 steel  wool.  As you do the steel wool, you DO want to very lightly take the  sharp edge off the corners.
Now you will use Micromesh 4000 and 6000 and wet sand the blank using the same method.
Dry the blank thoroughly.  I use my air compressor to blow it off.   If you want a "soft shine" to show off the wood, stop now.  If you want a  super-gloss look continue on.

Now it is time to buff the blank to high shine.  I have three buffing wheels that I chuck into my drill.
I  use a block of red-rouge from TAP plastics.  But others have used  Tripoli.  And others have used automotive rubbing compound.  I turn on  the lathe at sanding speed then use my drill on high speed with the  wheel turning in the opposite direction.  After buffing it as the pen  spins I will turn off the lathe and then buff it again lengthwise.  This  has made a BIG difference for several of us.  By the way, this is the  step where you will actually see if you have sanded through the CA.  If  you see any dull spots, you have gone through and need to back up, sand  the blank to remove the wax from the buffing material, apply more thick  CA and start all over.
Repeat above with the second wheel and White-Rouge/White Diamond/Polishing compound.
Repeat above with Flitz metal polish, brasso, automotive "swirl remover".

You now have a Super Glossy pen blank but there is still one more  step to do... after the pen is assembled.  You will want to apply a thin  coat of automotive wax.  I have some that is "Teflon based".  My friend  uses one that is silicone based.  But you want one that doesn't grab  and hold fingerprints.  For me, Carnuba is BAD.
Ok, that sounds like a real PITA and really long.  But once you've  done it a few times it takes about 3-4 minutes to apply the CA and about  5-7 minutes to sand and polish the CA.  Quick, easy, and you can't beat  the shine.

Good luck!


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## dshartin

I watched all the videos and tried the Blo stuff also with terrible results until I found this dvd from Eric Anderson at http://cafinish.com/ For the record I dont get paid to plug his stuff but for $17 it was the best money I have spent so far. I have 1 year of bad finishes under my belt but no more after this video. I couldn believe how easy it was after all my failed results. Good Luck.


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## Pens By Scott

I've seen and asked the same question as yourself...  For me, YouTube was the best to find a starting point.  I tried Russ Fairfield's CA/BLO finish first, worked ok, but like you have already pointed out, it's a starting point.  I went back to YouTube about 10 times, seeking "my perfect finish", which if I listened to everyone on here, likely shouldn't work, but it does for me.

I believe that Finishing is dependent upon a number of factors, Materials being used in the finishing process, what material is the finish being applied to, temperature at which the finish is being applied at (room temp, glue temp, etc.) accelerator being used? if so, how much, at what point in time, Materials being used to apply the CA glue, the CA Glue thickness, Altitude at which finish is being applied at, relative humidity and if it's a full moon...

Sorry to ramble on, but start with the basics on Youtube, and experiment from there.


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## ctubbs

Scott, you for got the most important part of the formula, the yellow socks.  They can not be clean yellow socks, however.OOPS, I failed to mention, wear them, do not apply CA with them.
Charles


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## ldb2000

writeitdown said:


> I've seen and asked the same question as yourself... For me, YouTube was the best to find a starting point. I tried Russ Fairfield's CA/BLO finish first, worked ok, but like you have already pointed out, it's a starting point. I went back to YouTube about 10 times, seeking "my perfect finish", which if I listened to everyone on here, likely shouldn't work, but it does for me.
> 
> I believe that Finishing is dependent upon a number of factors, Materials being used in the finishing process, what material is the finish being applied to, temperature at which the finish is being applied at (room temp, glue temp, etc.) accelerator being used? if so, how much, at what point in time, Materials being used to apply the CA glue, the CA Glue thickness, Altitude at which finish is being applied at, relative humidity and if it's a full moon...
> 
> Sorry to ramble on, but start with the basics on Youtube, and experiment from there.


 


ctubbs said:


> Scott, you for got the most important part of the formula, the yellow socks. They can not be clean yellow socks, however.OOPS, I failed to mention, wear them, do not apply CA with them.
> Charles


 

Don't forget the magical chant either , most important !   :biggrin:


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## truckerdave

*maybe I am just lazy*

But I gave up trying to put on a c a finish because it is really too much work and my results were terrible!

 I just use the Mylands Friction polish product And I am perfectly happy with the results!


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## spnemo

I found the Eric Anderson DVD very helpful!  I don't use his method, but I did assimilate some of his techniques.  

Three things that have really improved my CA finishe are:
1.  Use the blue shop towels from Home Depot instead of white paper towels
2.  Turn between centers (no more glue in the bushings)
3.  Use high speed (helps me keep the finish smooth to reduce sanding)


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## toddlajoie

I would also add that you can save yourself a bunch of money and work, go to some store and buy some cheap dowels and practice on them. I would say that easily maybe one or 2 out of the first 10 or 15 came out even passable for a pen for myself, wife or kids, nothing I would sell or gift to anyone, and many a time was spent taking off a failed CA try and starting over again, just because of the work already put into the blank or it being a nice piece of wood. A bad CA try on a cheap scrap of dowel can be tossed in the trash as a lesson learned, and not a nice blank ruined...


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## Wood Butcher

A CA finishing method and a bellybutton, that is what most of us have in common.
WB


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## grub32

*My ca finish*

This is my version of a ca finish....has been the only one I have been able to perfect...certainly not the greatest or the best but works for me.

http://www.youtube.com/user/grub32#p/search/0/9nXSaGOHMK8

Best of luck,

Grub


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## lwalden

Aaron, if you weren't on the wrong side of Eagle Mountain Lake, I'd volunteer to drop by and demo my method. Give me a shout if you're going to be out in my direction anytime soon


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## IPD_Mrs

Someone mentioned practicing on dowels.  Good idea but I would have to say if you do practice on scrap, better to do it on a dark wood like plain ole walnut.  It would be easier to find your mistakes and give you a better chance at getting it corrected before you move on to an expensive blank.  Also if you ever get a chance, take lyle up on his offer.  There is nothing better than learning while watching someone who knows what they are doing.


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## texaswoodworker

Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll give them a try and see if the work for me. 



lwalden said:


> Aaron, if you weren't on the wrong side of Eagle Mountain Lake, I'd volunteer to drop by and demo my method. Give me a shout if you're going to be out in my direction anytime soon


 
Lyle, If I'm ever down toward the metroplex, I'll be sure to take you up on that offer.


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