# Cleaning pens after buffing



## marian (Nov 27, 2015)

Hello,

At the final stage I buff with clean flanel wheel and usualy most of buffing compunds are gone. Yesterday I tested the new polishing compounds (menzerna). Now it looks like a compund is still there on the pen - finish seems to be dull, but when I rub with my finger along the pen emerges really nice shine (black ebonite). 

I wonder on effective way to clean pens from buffing compund. Do you have any suggestions ? 

Thank you in advance for your help.

Marian


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## Dalecamino (Nov 27, 2015)

Dish soap and water. Rinse and Dry thoroughly.


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## Charlie69 (Nov 27, 2015)

Isopropyl alcohol 91% works  exceptionally well to clean off the tripoli and white diamond compounds that I buff acryic acetate and alumilite with....I've heard that alcohol can cause crazing on some plastics so I test the alcohol on a spare piece before I clean off a pen that is nearly completed.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 27, 2015)

marian said:


> Hello,
> 
> At the final stage I buff with clean flanel wheel and usualy most of buffing compunds are gone. Yesterday I tested the new polishing compounds (menzerna). Now it looks like a compund is still there on the pen - finish seems to be dull, but when I rub with my finger along the pen emerges really nice shine (black ebonite).
> 
> ...




Well I would say do not use that product any more. Yes soap and water would work fine. Then either return to what has worked in the past or just some sort of acrylic polish after MM.


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## TonyL (Nov 27, 2015)

*Removing Polishing Compound*

I use Meguires 205 or sometimes 105 and 205 polishing liquids. I have attached the process that I use. There are 100s of processes out there. After using this process, I have eliminated all wet sanding and even use of MM. I examine all of my work under a 10x loop and I have been very pleased. I do want to repeat that many more use others processes and enjoy great success. What I like about this process is that it doesn't introduce water to the finishing process and it consumes less time. I also have more control over the finish. This is what I found works best for me.

I also must credit two highly skilled IAP members for helping be with the concept. This is not my original idea. It basically takes the Beall system and add two finer grades of compound beyond White Diamond.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 27, 2015)

Just  a side note on Tony's method, he shows the method for pens that are CA finished and or acrylic. No open grained wood or else that white diamond stuff will cause havoc in the grains and will be hard to get out. As he said there are many ways to polish a pen blank so try a few and develop your own strategy. Good luck.


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## wwneko (Nov 27, 2015)

Thanks for sharing your process in depth TonyL!


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## TonyL (Nov 27, 2015)

Thank you for clarifying JT; my fault for not stating in the post.

Having admitted that, when Michelle (LadyCop) visited my shop/house, we tried it on the El Mostros mixed material (wood and acrylic) blank (without CA - just a bare sanded blank) and it worked fine. This is probably due to the fact that the wood component were light colored wood and any residual compound could not be seen. We also didn't use the Meguires on it. 

However, as you said, the process is designed for "plastic" or CA finished materials.

Thanks again for pointing-out my oversight.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 27, 2015)

TonyL said:


> Thank you for clarifying JT; my fault for not stating in the post.
> 
> Having admitted that, when Michelle (LadyCop) visited my shop/house, we tried it on the El Mostros mixed material (wood and acrylic) blank (without CA - just a bare sanded blank) and it worked fine. This is probably due to the fact that the wood component were light colored wood and any residual compound could not be seen. We also didn't use the Meguires on it.
> 
> ...



No oversight Tony I just thought a footnote maybe helpful because you never know how many people follow your posts and want to try this and it was in another thread here that a pen with very open grain (red oak) was used and this would have really caused problems if they used it. 

Believe it or not I use the buffing method on many of my exotic woods that I use for my scrollsawn pieces. I dip in Danish oil and after they dried I buff them to a nice sheen using the buffing wheels. Works great.


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## TonyL (Nov 27, 2015)

*Buffing*



wwneko said:


> Thanks for sharing your process in depth TonyL!


 
You are welcome.


Just keep in mind what JT said. 

Maybe I would use some DNA (the alcohol, not the hereditary material that Smiity referenced  to remove the dust. Actually Caswell, sells a residual compound remover - but I didn't get it.


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## TonyL (Nov 27, 2015)

_No oversight Tony *I just thought a footnote* maybe helpful because you never know how many people follow your posts and want to try this and it was in another thread here that a pen with very open grain (red oak) was used and this would have really caused problems if they used it._ 

I state it within the introduction. I can bold it.

Thanks.  I will update.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 27, 2015)

TonyL said:


> _No oversight Tony *I just thought a footnote* maybe helpful because you never know how many people follow your posts and want to try this and it was in another thread here that a pen with very open grain (red oak) was used and this would have really caused problems if they used it._
> 
> I state it within the introduction. I can bold it.
> 
> Thanks.  I will update.



If you could do that that would probably be great. It is well written.


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## larryc (Nov 27, 2015)

TonyL
As you know I have been using the Beall buffing system but I am always looking for ways to amp up my finishing sequence.
Looking through your very informative and interesting tutorial brings up a couple of questions. 

On page 4 my copy is not complete as to the supplier of the 2MT with the 1/2 inch female thread. The last photo shows what looks like a mandrel saver on the tail stock end?

What led you to the conclusion to use 3 flannel wheels at each location? I think the idea has merit but would like to know a little more about your rational.

What make of plastic polish and non-cleaner wax do you use? I have used Novus 1 and 2 on acrylic blanks but have not thought to use it on wood blanks after polishing.


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## TonyL (Nov 27, 2015)

*Follow-up to LarryC's Questions*



larryc said:


> TonyL
> _As you know I have been using the Beall buffing system but I am always looking for ways to amp up my finishing sequence_.
> 
> *I saw your work, and I am trying to amp up mine to yours !*
> ...




*I have almost ALL of the plastic polishes - at least 10 in addition to Meguires 105 and 205. I find after the 4 stage buffing it is really not necessary other than to remove any residual compound left by the fourth wheel. I always hit my work with the 205 (less aggressive than the 105) whether it needs it or not.*

*Finally, I use Rejex synthetic wax. But this is just for protection (no abrasive in it). It also makes for one slippery blank, so be careful when removing from the lathe.*
** 
You are welcome to come to my home any time and try whatever you want. I hope this helps.


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## marian (Nov 30, 2015)

Thank you all for your help. I've tried with dish soap and works ok. I'm quite happy with my finish, so now I charge buffing wheels with very little amount of compound, but more often. I think it also helped and blanks are cleaner after buffing.


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