# Keeping the cost down!



## SDB777 (Jan 1, 2013)

Took a 'time-out' from turning PR swirlies, had the idea I would make a couple of pens. Well, good things happen, and I made three today. All Arkansas Wild Black Cherry, two in rollerball and one in a fountain.


No CA finish was applied to any of these! That's right, I'm on a roll of not using this stuff that melts my eyes and makes my nasal cavity drizzle....and I couldn't be happier. These were all turned between centers, sanded to 1000grit, EEE and buffed with some wax.


Let's start with the fountain:






And now the rollerballs:

















And finally, let's go for the 'group shot'!!!







Had some fun, made some more nice writting instruments, and I wasn't near the 'one-that-has-the-nasty-cold-and-is-grumpy'. Thanks for looking, feel free to let me know what you think. By the way, these three pens....total of $13.83 cost! What do you think the profit on that will be?




Scott (woohoo, profit is good...means I can buy more stuff) B


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## SerenityWoodWorks (Jan 1, 2013)

and just how did you get 3 JR Gent kits for under $14? Best I find is around 7 per kit.


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## SDB777 (Jan 1, 2013)

SerenityWoodWorks said:


> and just how did you get 3 JR Gent kits for under $14? Best I find is around 7 per kit.


 
www.timberbits.com

These are Jr. Gent 1 kits....$4.00AU or $4.21USD, order enough of them and shipping is great!  Took four days from the time I order for them to show up here(your mileage may vary).




Scott (always looking for a deal) B


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## ljkellu (Jan 1, 2013)

these look awesome and I love that you didn't use the CA glue.  Being a newbie I am really having trouble with the glue and seeing these makes me rethink that I have to actually use it!  Thanks for sharing!


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## scoobiehome (Jan 1, 2013)

Thank you for the link, beautiful pens!
Renee


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## flyitfast (Jan 1, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> No CA finish was applied to any of these! That's right, I'm on a roll of not using this stuff that melts my eyes and makes my nasal cavity drizzle....and I couldn't be happier. These were all turned between centers, sanded to 1000grit, EEE and buffed with some wax.


 
Scott, glad to see what others are achieving without CA. I have moved away from it and I'm using OB Juice that Capt. Eddie Castlin shows in his Youtube videos. I started using it on bowls and other vessels and tried it on wood pens. Took awhile to get the hang of it, but it leaves a comfortable finish. Doesn't shine like CA but is a more natural finish.

Your pens look great both in fit and finish.

gordon


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## hanau (Jan 1, 2013)

they look great going to have to order some and try.
but have a question/
what does EEE stand for?

 "1000grit, EEE and buffed with some wax".


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## watch_art (Jan 1, 2013)

tripoli polish?   EEE?
Triple E.
https://www.google.com/search?um=1&...1e1ffda592ab0f&bpcl=40096503&biw=1388&bih=756


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## Curly (Jan 1, 2013)

EEE is a friction polish from U-Beaut Polishes head quartered in Australia and sold buy a number of companies around the world. They are also sponsors to a great forum covering many woodworking aspects including pen turning.

U-Beaut Polishes

Distributors.
distribs


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## Wright (Jan 1, 2013)

WOW Scott, beautiful pens !! It is nice to see the true natural wood with just a nice (not overdone) buff with EEE. I won't to start back to turning more natural hardwoods and leave the CA off. For me it is more fun than work with wood. Great job.


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## Hexhead (Jan 1, 2013)

I have found many customers like the natural wood look, they say that they polyurethane and CA other finishes make it look like plastic. I still use those other finishes but there is a good market for natural wood, and that's what I like myself.


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## ossaguy (Jan 1, 2013)

Those look great! I think I'm going to try making a natural wood one like that next,for a change.Thanks for the inspiration!

Steve


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## rizaydog (Jan 2, 2013)

Very nice pens.  I might have to try a few non-CA pens now.


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## low_48 (Jan 2, 2013)

We all went through these type of "light finishes" before CA was even considered. No one was ever satisfied with the longevity of these finishes. Folks really baulk when a $50 pen has the finish wear off in a couple months. I had pens returned that were unusable because they were actually sticky to touch. The gal used lots of hand lotion, and that softened the friction polish in no time at all. Stripped it and used CA, happy customer. Nearly all friction polishes use shellac as a base finish. Shellac is thinned with denatured alcohol. Alcohol mixes with water (gin and tonic) so moisture from the hands has an affect on the shellac finish. If you need a healthier clear finish, I suggest something water based or thinned poly. Please don't make a bunch of these before getting them out in people's hands. I'm pretty sure you won't be happy!


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## SDB777 (Jan 3, 2013)

low_48 said:


> We all went through these type of "light finishes" before CA was even considered. No one was ever satisfied with the longevity of these finishes. Folks really baulk when a $50 pen has the finish wear off in a couple months. I had pens returned that were unusable because they were actually sticky to touch. The gal used lots of hand lotion, and that softened the friction polish in no time at all. Stripped it and used CA, happy customer. Nearly all friction polishes use shellac as a base finish. Shellac is thinned with denatured alcohol. Alcohol mixes with water (gin and tonic) so moisture from the hands has an affect on the shellac finish. If you need a healthier clear finish, I suggest something water based or thinned poly. Please don't make a bunch of these before getting them out in people's hands. I'm pretty sure you won't be happy!


 

Unfortunately, I have made a LOT of these, and they are in hands of people I see all the time, not once has someone said they were unhappy.  

Also, never I my wildest dreams would I even consider ripping someone off by selling these at $50!  Typically this is a hobby, and rollerballs with $4-ish kits are not worth $50....maybe $20(and I still feel like that is too high of a price!!!)



So Shellac based finish is bad......hmmm, got a maple hardwood floor in my parents house that was finished in 1975, and it's still shined up nicely.  And people walk on that....








CA has it's place....true enough.  But don't tell everyone that it is mandatory.








Scott (typed in a non-threatening way) B


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## SDB777 (Jan 3, 2013)

Thanks everyone!  Just thought I'd throw out something a little different then 'main-stream' for awhile......




Scott (ain't forgot the CA finish) B


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## Wright (Jan 3, 2013)

My first pen that I turned which was April 2012 was a segmented slimline I made for my wife. I used Mylands friction polish on it and she uses the pen every day and it still looks great. Of course since then I've used CA finishes, however, I still like to use friction polish or wax on nice wood. Just my two cents.


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## low_48 (Jan 5, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> low_48 said:
> 
> 
> > We all went through these type of "light finishes" before CA was even considered. No one was ever satisfied with the longevity of these finishes. Folks really baulk when a $50 pen has the finish wear off in a couple months. I had pens returned that were unusable because they were actually sticky to touch. The gal used lots of hand lotion, and that softened the friction polish in no time at all. Stripped it and used CA, happy customer. Nearly all friction polishes use shellac as a base finish. Shellac is thinned with denatured alcohol. Alcohol mixes with water (gin and tonic) so moisture from the hands has an affect on the shellac finish. If you need a healthier clear finish, I suggest something water based or thinned poly. Please don't make a bunch of these before getting them out in people's hands. I'm pretty sure you won't be happy!
> ...



I think you will have a pretty hard time finding anywhere in my post that insists the CA is mandatory. I even suggested two different finishes that you may like to try. As mentioned, I was turning pens before anyone used CA. I started making pens in the mid 80s. Just trying to share some long term experiences. What is the oldest pen you have out there with this finish? Anyone use them daily? My point about shellac finishes was based on moisture conditions. I also have floors with a shellac finish in my 60 year old house. But I wouldn't want them in the kitchen, the bathroom, or in a mudroom.


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## scoobiehome (Jan 6, 2013)

I recently completed an Electra fountain pen, made with bubinga wood ( it was a Christmas gift) and used A and D ointment as a finish. I was using the a and d ointment on the bushings. Previously I've use ca finish and had trouble with the bushings sticking.
For this pen , I thought I'd try the a and d for a finish
Pen looks beautiful, I plan to keep the pen to see how it wears!
Any thoughts?
Renee


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## low_48 (Jan 6, 2013)

No idea of what A&D has for a base. Probably petroleum jelly or aloe, neither of which I would consider a finish for wood. Personally, I'm surprised what heavy contact with the human hand can do to wood. I've seen chairs that are sticky on the top rail, just from people pulling back the chair to sit, sticky dull finish around kitchen cabinet knobs, etc...Each person has oil, acids, dirt, and moisture on their hands. It's not kind to wood finish.


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## joefyffe (Jan 7, 2013)

low_48 said:


> We all went through these type of "light finishes" before CA was even considered. No one was ever satisfied with the longevity of these finishes. Folks really baulk when a $50 pen has the finish wear off in a couple months. I had pens returned that were unusable because they were actually sticky to touch. The gal used lots of hand lotion, and that softened the friction polish in no time at all. Stripped it and used CA, happy customer. Nearly all friction polishes use shellac as a base finish. Shellac is thinned with denatured alcohol. Alcohol mixes with water (gin and tonic) so moisture from the hands has an affect on the shellac finish. If you need a healthier clear finish, I suggest something water based or thinned poly. Please don't make a bunch of these before getting them out in people's hands. I'm pretty sure you won't be happy!


 
There's always someone who wants to re-invent the wheel!!


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## SDB777 (Jan 8, 2013)

joefyffe said:


> low_48 said:
> 
> 
> > We all went through these type of "light finishes" before CA was even considered. No one was ever satisfied with the longevity of these finishes. Folks really baulk when a $50 pen has the finish wear off in a couple months. I had pens returned that were unusable because they were actually sticky to touch. The gal used lots of hand lotion, and that softened the friction polish in no time at all. Stripped it and used CA, happy customer. Nearly all friction polishes use shellac as a base finish. Shellac is thinned with denatured alcohol. Alcohol mixes with water (gin and tonic) so moisture from the hands has an affect on the shellac finish. If you need a healthier clear finish, I suggest something water based or thinned poly. Please don't make a bunch of these before getting them out in people's hands. I'm pretty sure you won't be happy!
> ...


 


Wouldn't call it 're-inventing the wheel'.....more of a getting back to what a wooden pen is supposed to be, wood.  I turn plenty of plastic, but the wood is what generally get picked up, and I was tired of hearing, "This feels like plastic" all the time.  So I decided some 'options for the customers' were needed.


Besides, what did everyone say before CA?  

Nice pen, but it won't last until someone invents CA!








Scott (like some dogs with a bone) B


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## SDB777 (Jan 8, 2013)

low_48 said:


> What is the oldest pen you have out there with this finish?


 


Actually have a dip pen that was made around 1912, the nib is broken(trying to find a cool replacement for it).  It was made from maple, yes it shows some wear and use near the grip area...it's a hundred years old, and from what I can see it never had any CA finish on it.




Scott (probably no finish at all) B


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## low_48 (Jan 8, 2013)

You win Scott, finish them with melted toe nail clippings if you like the finish. I was just trying to be helpful. I thought you might have liked some history to pen finishing, and explain why it got to where it is today, but I was obviously wrong.


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