# pen disassembly tool



## programmergeek (Apr 5, 2009)

I need one some of my 7mm pens cracked  I see Craft supply sells one for 7mm only and pen state has a whole set but is out of stock. What is the best one and I would really like to get a bunch of sizes since I don't plan to make 7mm pens for the rest of my life. 

Thank you for your advice ahead of time.


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## penmanship (Apr 5, 2009)

2 Words....................Transfer Punch.  I have a set & have used them from 7mm pens all the way up to Gentleman sizes.  

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=54892&cat=1,43456

Tim


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## Manny (Apr 5, 2009)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3577



These work great for me. I think others use them as well.

they go on sale often for $5!


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## AKBeaver (Apr 5, 2009)

Harbor Freight as Manny said.  I use them for a few other things as well.  My main use is for squaring blanks after gluing the tubes. I mounted a 3/4" thick x 6" diameter piece of plywood with 150 grit sandpaper on a turning plate as a sanding wheel and and use the best fitting punch for the tube in my drill chuck mounted in the tail stock.  Slide the blank on the punch, then bring the end just shy of the sanding wheel.  Squares things up very nicely.

Dave


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## Woodlvr (Apr 5, 2009)

Ditto on the vote for Harbor Freight, for the price they work great.  Many uses for them.


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## programmergeek (Apr 5, 2009)

Ok so  one other question how do you take them apart without damaging the parts, it's a pretty tight fit.  I am feeling stupid here.


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## arw01 (Apr 5, 2009)

Ditto! I've never figured out how you hold the pen while you whack the punch to drive the pressed in pieces out.


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## hunter-27 (Apr 5, 2009)

Just grasp the tube tightly and cup your hand around the part to be removed to catch ity and whack the punch with a hammer a few times as needed.


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## seawolf (Apr 5, 2009)

Measure the nib then drill a hole through a piece of 2X4 .5mm larger than the nib. Place the nib in the hole run the punch down the pen barrle and tap the nib out. Drill a 7mm hole in the 2X4 and use the larger punch to tap out the trany. Put the tube on the mandrel shim up tight then turn off the bad blank. Use 120 grit paper to clean the glue from the outside of the tube. Reglue tube in new blank then turn replacement.
Mark


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## jttheclockman (Apr 5, 2009)

OK how would you take apart a cigar where on the lower barrel you have a piece set in both ends of the barrel???   This is for the future because I know I am going to mess one or two up for sure.


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## hunter-27 (Apr 5, 2009)

never turned one of those so unsure.


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## gspalding (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm thinking we need a tutorial on disassembly from one of the masters.  Or is it possible that they have never made a mistake?

I for one have done my share of idiot moves including reversing the nib and tranny on a cigar (Ouch!)

Any takers on the disassembly tutorial?

George Spalding


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## jduxbur (Apr 6, 2009)

Thank you so much for all the info so far.  I have struggled with removals many times now and this is a real help

Jim


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## KenV (Apr 6, 2009)

Cigar -  From memory

Lower section -- unscrew transmission and unscrew nib,  As I remember, the nib is a bit smaller than the transmission -- check both and select largest transfer punch.  I hold the barrel in the rupper drawer liner material.  after removing one end with stead taps, revers and try again for the other end with larger punch.

Upper barrel --- punch needs to fit through the inner tube and tap out the top assembly.  I leave the cap on for this.  remove the guts and then tap out the lower sleeve -- carefully as I have broken the plastic part.

Note that "purple" locktite is good for loose fittings instead of CA because those seem to be the ones that come back for refinishing


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## TurnedAround (Apr 6, 2009)

As a matter of fact I disassembled two cigars yesterday. The finial assembly has a brass tube that acts as a friction fit for the tranny. The Harbor Freight punch I used was the size of the brass tube and when I beat it out I squashed the tube part. On the second one I measure the punch on an unfinished kit piece so the punch fit inside the tube part and impacted the solid metal finial base. Saved the second one but the first was trashed. Don't know if I made sense. Just passing on a negative result, trying to save someone else the hassle.


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## wdcav1952 (Apr 6, 2009)

I can't help with the cigar, but this is how I disassemble the slimline.


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## TellicoTurning (Apr 6, 2009)

Manny said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3577
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I got mine at HF, but I had to pay full price for it.. I think it was $9.95


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## joek30296 (Feb 28, 2012)

+1 on the Harbor Freight transfer punch set....$9.95.  Use a 20% off coupon and it's even better.  I also made a set-up similar to AKBeaver's and attached it to a 3" faceplate with 150 grit sandpaper.  Works great for squaring the ends after finishing.

Joe


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## PTsideshow (Feb 28, 2012)

Harbor Freight coupon thread
Here is the wiki for their coupon deals, 20% off and others don't forget the free item one too. They also explain how to use them on line. Scroll down the page!
They keep this site updated with current coupons.
:clown:


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## mikespenturningz (Feb 28, 2012)

I have never gotten a tranny out in one piece. I always end up destroying it. Then I slip a long allen wrench in and tap the rest out. I always cup the part and it hurts like the dickens when the nib finally lets go. I will try to drill the hole and save my poor hands. I am also getting a set of those punches. Thanks for the great advise guys.


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## randyrls (Feb 28, 2012)

mikespenturningz said:


> I have never gotten a tranny out in one piece. I always end up destroying it. Then I slip a long allen wrench in and tap the rest out. I always cup the part and it hurts like the dickens when the nib finally lets go. I will try to drill the hole and save my poor hands. I am also getting a set of those punches. Thanks for the great advise guys.



Mike;  I have removed and pulled-out a transmission that I inserted too far into the nib end.

Take a 1" or so piece of hardwood and drill using a "D" or 1/4" drill bit.  Now use a handsaw to slit the piece length wise.  Put a 1/4" washer or two onto the transmission, clamp the slit piece and transmission in a vise.  Now insert two flat blade screwdrivers between the washer and slit piece.  you can twist the screwdrivers in opposite directions to pull the transmission and nib end apart.


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## ALA (Feb 28, 2012)

TellicoTurning said:


> Manny said:
> 
> 
> > Transfer Punch Set - 28 Piece
> ...


 
I bought a set today as well...and mine were $9.99.


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## Elvee61 (Feb 28, 2012)

I drilled a 1/2" hole (+/-) on the edge of my workbench and screwed in a hook underneath to hang a bucket from.  Hold the pen/part in my hand over the hole and WHACK!  Everything that comes off goes into the plastic bucket.


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## ctubbs (Feb 29, 2012)

I much prefer a 'dead blow' mallet to a hammer for this.  Hold the barrel with one of those blue jar lid grip sheets and everything just pops right out using the transfer punches.  Have something soft for the parts top land in/on to keep them from running out the door.  Again DAMHIKT.
Charles


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## jdporter99 (Mar 17, 2012)

*Just hold the barrel and whack?*

The people who suggested holding the barrel, cupping your hand and whacking the transfer punch a few times must have some kind of hands. I just used the HF punches to take apart a few slimlines. First I held it in my hand, and beat on it for 10-15 minutes until my hand was sore. Then I put on a leather glove and beat on it for 10-15 minutes. Then I wrapped some of that non-slip stuff around the barrel, put on a leather glove and beat on it some more. After a total of about 45 minutes I finally got the nib end out. Next on to the transmission and the same deal. Finally, on to the clip end. I beat on that for quite a while, and the brass tube finally let go from The CA. Then vise grips on the brass tube and I finally got the clip cap out.

Next time I have a few to do I will try the 7mm hole +5mm and 7mm hole in a piece of wood.

On the other hand I took the nib end from a comfort pen out of a blank and by comparison it fell out.


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## Xander (Mar 17, 2012)

I hold the pen (or section) in my dedicated blank drilling chuck to disassemble. Just wrap it in one 2" square gun cleaning patch to protect the finish and use transfer punch to drive out nib, transmission, end cap, whatever. Works real well.


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## leehljp (Mar 17, 2012)

I use the non-slip fabric also. Wrap some around the barrel and hand hold. Put the correct size punch in and tap. Don't try to get it out in a few big whacks. Tap, tap, tap and notice the progress. I often have to re-grip 4 or 5 or 6 times or more. Use patience and expect 3 - 5 minutes or so of tapping. If it comes out in only 1 minute, then great. The point is try and make small progress over several minutes and most of the time the parts will be totally useable again.

In all honesty, I guess I have taken dozens of pens apart, mostly to refinish a blank, and I have never ruined a part.

Each pen type is different. On slim lines, I use a small diameter punch to slide through the transmission and force out the nib, then use a larger punch from the nib end to force the transmission back. On some pens, the nib or clip end must be forced out first and then from the clip or nib end, go in with a large punch and force the inside part out in the other direction.


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## okiebugg (Mar 18, 2012)

*simple*



programmergeek said:


> I need one some of my 7mm pens cracked  I see Craft supply sells one for 7mm only and pen state has a whole set but is out of stock. What is the best one and I would really like to get a bunch of sizes since I don't plan to make 7mm pens for the rest of my life.
> 
> Thank you for your advice ahead of time.


 
If you will google harbor freight, they have a set of long punches that work just fine for about $8.00


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## keithbyrd (Mar 18, 2012)

jttheclockman said:


> OK how would you take apart a cigar where on the lower barrel you have a piece set in both ends of the barrel??? This is for the future because I know I am going to mess one or two up for sure.


 
To take the nib out pick a punch just small enough to go through the couple and tap out the nib.  Then a larger punch  through the nib end to knock out the coupler.


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## keithbyrd (Mar 18, 2012)

leehljp said:


> I use the non-slip fabric also. Wrap some around the barrel and hand hold. Put the correct size punch in and tap. Don't try to get it out in a few big whacks. Tap, tap, tap and notice the progress. I often have to re-grip 4 or 5 or 6 times or more. Use patience and expect 3 - 5 minutes or so of tapping. If it comes out in only 1 minute, then great. The point is try and make small progress over several minutes and most of the time the parts will be totally useable again.
> 
> In all honesty, I guess I have taken dozens of pens apart, mostly to refinish a blank, and I have never ruined a part.
> 
> Each pen type is different. On slim lines, I use a small diameter punch to slide through the transmission and force out the nib, then use a larger punch from the nib end to force the transmission back. On some pens, the nib or clip end must be forced out first and then from the clip or nib end, go in with a large punch and force the inside part out in the other direction.


 
PSI has rubber coated vise grips for disassembly. Caution - don't set the tension too tight - can crack the blank - I have cracked one so far and have used this tool probably 50 times so far.
Locking Soft-Grip Pliers for Pen Dissembly at Penn State Industries


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## gimpy (Mar 18, 2012)

I throw them away and start over, your gonna waste more time and get more frustrated. the peices will brake, or get damgaed in one way or another, then back to square one......only my opinion, I don't use them anymore


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