# New laminate slicing jig AKA: The Cheese Box



## Xephius (Apr 23, 2009)

So after some advice that I should redesign/rebuild my slicing jig, I built a multi-function sled and a vacuum block for slicing blanks or scrap wood into laminate thickness slices. I didn't follow any one plan, but instead used several ideas and made my own. 

So the basis of the entire thing is I use vacuum to hold everything in place, including the block. Once the vacuum is turned on, you can pick up the entire assembly by the vacuum hose and you can see in my pictures and it holds solid. The other advantage of this is I can use the sled for other purposes, not just this slicing jig.

It is fairly straight forward, I built a sled, then a square box. Drilled some holes in it, and that is about it. I use a thin bit of wood to hold down the blank so the blade doesn't kick it up, vacuum holds it into place as well. with my 5HP shopvac turned on, it is solid as a rock. Fairly accurate and easy to adjust using a micrometer and tapping the block with the vacuum off. Here are some pictures.

Cheese Box ready to use.






Side shot, the vacuum block slides against the back edge before use.





Holes on the front drilled to hold blanks and the locking slab, top hole for the vacuum.





Holes on the bottom and back of the block to hold it in the sled.





Consistent even slices. This one is .055 inch





I am trying to hold up the block by the vacuum hose and take a pick, so its a little blurry. Sorry about that.





I look forward to your input!

-X
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## seawolf (Apr 23, 2009)

Looks real good hope you don't mind if I copy your plan.
Mark.


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## Xephius (Apr 23, 2009)

seawolf said:


> Looks real good hope you don't mind if I copy your plan.
> Mark.



I would be pleased if you did! I am going to modify mine with larger holes in the bottom of the block. And I have found that it is best to fine tune the slice thickness using a bit of MDF and a tack hammer (or similar) to tap the block into position. It is very accurate and reliable on the thickness of the slice. Be sure to get your slides tight in the channels on the table. That makes a big difference in the play of the tray.

-X
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## alphageek (Apr 23, 2009)

This is very cool... I think this might help with making slices for other things.  I'm gonna have to point our organ crew here.. This might be really good for making pipe pieces.


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## gad5264 (Apr 23, 2009)

Very nice, may have to pilfer (I mean borrow) this one as well


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## jttheclockman (Apr 23, 2009)

Nice vaccuum jig. I still use the old fashion way and have had good success with it. Have been slicing wood like this for years and it wasn't till I stated doing pens that I needed to slice the pieces even thinner.


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## thewishman (Apr 24, 2009)

Nice cheese box, John.


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## Xephius (Apr 24, 2009)

Thanks Chris, and everyone for the feedback. I am enjoying the tool, next to build a more accurate sled for my dinky bandsaw.

-X
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## VisExp (Apr 25, 2009)

Xephius said:


> Be sure to get your slides tight in the channels on the table. That makes a big difference in the play of the tray.


 
It's also very important that your blade be at 90 degree to the table bed.

The jig looks great and is obviously giving you nice consistent results.  I like your idea of using the vacuum to hold the fence to the sled.  Very innovative.


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## KenV (Apr 25, 2009)

Note that David Reed Smith has plans for a larger version on his web site.  The late Eagle credited David as the source of his variant.  

My shop vacs except the Fein use air flow through the vac to cool the motor.  The small holes and blockages may not provide enough air flow for cooling the motor.  If you are cutting for a long time, check the vac for hot motor -- want to do that before it smells hot -- usually by the time you smell a problem, service live is plummeting.

the design to use the force of airpressure to hold the box in place is good thinking and will be a solid force as long as the circuit does not blow on the vac.  Might add a clip/clamp in case that remote posibility does happen to keep the box from moving unexpectedly.


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## Xephius (Apr 25, 2009)

Keith,

 You are right that keeping the blade at 90 is important. I have what I would consider an entry level "woodworking" table saw. It is a combination Delta 10" saw with a Biesemeyer style fence, but the table is shorter than a standard table saw. Also, my blade angle controls are not as precises as some of he higher end saws. So I have to spend a few minutes with a triangle to get the blade correct. Then I double check after I rip a chuck on MDF. Someday I will buy a Stopsaw I think....

Ken,

  I had seen the plans for the David Reed Smith design before, but it was not my "original" inspiration in this case. But I certinaly did draw from some of his ideas. What got me thinking of using Vacuum force in this case was how they hold wood down on a commercial CNC router. They use a fiberboard and just pull the vacuum right through it locking the cutting part to the table. I thought this would be a gread way to handle thigns for bandsaws and tablesaws to keep hands away, not have to keep lots of adjustments and featherboards, and be easy to build. 

  I think I maybe "on to something", but certinaly have not refined the idea. I am a functional tool maker. Meaning once it does the job, I tend to use the heck out of it. (and have been using this one!) I would love to see someone take this idea to the next level and design finer controls and locks, and better flow for the vacuum. Once I get my dust collection system going, I am going to see if that will keep the table held down, but I am going to add more "flow" for the shopvac in the short term.

Next I need to figure out how to make my bandsaw consistanly cut blanks in half and not wander to one side....

-X
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