# Decal Help



## keithbyrd (Apr 16, 2012)

Ok - I read several threads about using decals so I tried it and I need some help!
1.  I printed with ink jet printer then sprayed the sealer over it last night.  Trying to work the decals tonight I got some of the lettering flaking off.  I thought the sealer would seal it down?
2.  I soaked in water 5 seconds per directions.  waited about a minute to slide it off the paper onto the pen blank.  Put a drop of water on the blank and slid into position.  Used a small (1/2 in paint brush) to smooth it.  Within about 3-4 minutes the edges were curling up.  I dabbed the paiint brush in water and smoothed it out  - it was still holding (2 minutes later ) when I cam upstairs to write this.  Any ideas why it was curling?  I just went down stairs and it was curling up again.  Doesn't seem to want to stick.
I have sanded the blanks to 400 and put two coats of thin CA and sanded to 400 before applying decals.
I am using Testors paper - clear - and Testors decal bonder.  These are due to a customer next week - I really don't want these to turn out bad.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.


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## G1Pens (Apr 16, 2012)

I've done a lot of decals. It is one of two things IMHO. It is possible it it is bad paper. The other possibility is too much water. 

I soak the decal in water for about 25-30 seconds. As soon as it will slide off the paper (5-10 seconds) I slide it off the paper onto the pen. Use a paintbrush smooth it out. Get all the water off the decal/pen and then leave it alone. Edges should not curl.

I don't think it would make the edges curl, but do no cut out decals with scissors. Use a sharp hobby knife. This gives the edge a nice clean cut.


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## rherrell (Apr 17, 2012)

I had the same curling problem when I first started doing decals. You have to use your fingers!!!:biggrin:

That's right, slide it onto the blank and get it positioned, then while holding it in place with your thumb, start rubbing it with a finger on your other hand. Keep rubbing for about 5 minutes, or until all the edges stay down.:wink:


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## keithbyrd (Apr 17, 2012)

G1Pens said:


> I've done a lot of decals. It is one of two things IMHO. It is possible it it is bad paper. The other possibility is too much water.
> 
> I soak the decal in water for about 25-30 seconds. As soon as it will slide off the paper (5-10 seconds) I slide it off the paper onto the pen. Use a paintbrush smooth it out. Get all the water off the decal/pen and then leave it alone. Edges should not curl.
> 
> I don't think it would make the edges curl, but do no cut out decals with scissors. Use a sharp hobby knife. This gives the edge a nice clean cut.


 
Thanks for the tips.  Unfortunately.....  I let the paper soak for 30 seconds, let it set for 20-30 seconds - slid off to the blank and can't get them to stick.  The edges curl up. (I cut with a hobbly knife) I tried rubbing it with my finger to get it to stay and still no luck.  Question - I am testing on a blank I turn to same size as pen but just realized that I did not seal with a copule of coats of CA.  Does it matter that it is raw wood?


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## keithbyrd (Apr 17, 2012)

rherrell said:


> I had the same curling problem when I first started doing decals. You have to use your fingers!!!:biggrin:
> 
> That's right, slide it onto the blank and get it positioned, then while holding it in place with your thumb, start rubbing it with a finger on your other hand. Keep rubbing for about 5 minutes, or until all the edges stay down.:wink:


 
Rick - I used my fingers! but not for 5 minutes - rubbed but couldn't get it to stick - are you serious about 5 minutes?

I'm getting desparate! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I have to deliver these pens on the 26th, yesterday and today was the day to learn and apply decals then out of town - and then only have 3 days that I can work on them and the decals won't stick. It is a staight decal - 5 letters in a row "XXXXX 2012" followed by the year- very simple.

Additional info: I just spotted a bottle of Decal Setting solution in the box that my order came in! Do you use that? I went down and checked the decals and they were lifting. I put some setting solution on and smoothed out the decal with a brush and they seemed to be sticking. Will see what happens when it dries!


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## Mike8850 (Apr 17, 2012)

When I put a decal on wood or antler I always go through the whole CA finish process. I then put the decal on and add more CA till the edges disappear and polish again.
Mike


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## truckfixr (Apr 17, 2012)

It's best to apply a couple coats of ca and sand smooth before applying the decals, or you are very likely to get small air bubbled under the decal. I use scissors all the time with no problems. I soak the decals just long enough for them to slide and I apply them to the pen, I use a small piece of a paper towel as a squeegie to work any bubbles or trapped water from under the decal and to seat the edges. Applying light pressure usually will get the edges to stay in place. Be sure to allow them plenty of time to dry or you risk the possibility of the ca getting cloudy from the trapped moisture. DAMHIKT.


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## G1Pens (Apr 17, 2012)

Decals like slick surfaces. The smoother the surface the better your chances of success. 

If you have the decal setting solution use it as directed. I do not recommend "messing" withe the decals after applying it. It will soften the decals and if you try to move them around or rub them while the setting solution is still wet you stand a very good chance of tearing them. 

I would apply the decals...pat them dry and then apply the setting solution and then leave them alone.



keithbyrd said:


> G1Pens said:
> 
> 
> > I've done a lot of decals. It is one of two things IMHO. It is possible it it is bad paper. The other possibility is too much water.
> ...


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## alinc100 (Apr 17, 2012)

Keith,
 If you do not have success with the excellent advice given above. I am not too far away in Dearborn.I could try printing the decals on my laser printer with Papilio waterslide decal paper and apply them.
 I should be available about the time you return from out of town.
I had an issue with the white decal paper and switched back to the clear and have not had issues.
I do CA finish & MM before applying the decals and then set the decal in CA.


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## keithbyrd (Apr 17, 2012)

alinc100 said:


> Keith,
> If you do not have success with the excellent advice given above. I am not too far away in Dearborn.I could try printing the decals on my laser printer with Papilio waterslide decal paper and apply them.
> I should be available about the time you return from out of town.
> I had an issue with the white decal paper and switched back to the clear and have not had issues.
> I do CA finish & MM before applying the decals and then set the decal in CA.


 
Andy, Thank you for the generous offer.  I will let you know if it doesn't work.  Tonight I will put a few coats of CA on the blanks and then try the decals.  by the time I get back on Sunday night I will know if it worked or not!


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## keithbyrd (Apr 17, 2012)

All - thanks for the advice given!


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## ribanett (Apr 17, 2012)

I had the  same problem when I started applying decals to cartridge pens. The problem was that I was applying too much sealer to the decals. You just need a thin coat to seal the ink. Too much sealer will act like a spring and pull the decal off the barrel.


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## Jim Burr (Apr 17, 2012)

I just finished my first decal pen for a customer a few weeks ago. I used Testors paper, printed it on an HP inkjet...highest quality setting, Let that dry for a bit, sprayed Testors sealer on the sheet. Let everything dry for a day. Prep'd the pen blank...home cast solid black. MM to 12000. Cut the decal with an new exacto blade...soaked it for about 30 seconds. Peeled it off the paper and applied it to the pen blank. Rubbed/smoothed for a minute or two. Let that dry overnight, 15 coats of medium CA and MM to 12000 again. It seems like a lot of effort for a $80 Vertex, but the longest part was turning the blank!


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## rherrell (Apr 17, 2012)

keithbyrd said:


> rherrell said:
> 
> 
> > I had the same curling problem when I first started doing decals. You have to use your fingers!!!:biggrin:
> ...


 
Serious as a heart attack.:biggrin: Maybe it's the paper I use or maybe I use too much sealer but it takes about 5 min. for me to get a decal to stay put.


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## keithbyrd (Apr 17, 2012)

OK guys - I did nine decals tonight and I think I am good!  One last question - it appears that I may have a couple of real tiny spots on the edge that looks like it might have raised a bit.  I can see it in the magnifying light.  Will that be enhanced in the CA or do I need to remove it and do again?
Thanks for all your advice!


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## Carl Fisher (Apr 19, 2012)

My experience is that if you can see it now, you'll see it under the CA and it will bother you until it's fixed.  DAMHIKT!


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## ALA (Apr 19, 2012)

I put decals on one last night (for the second time!) and put the CA on it this morning. Looking ok this time. The first time I put them on they had a cloudy look underneath them but I thought CA might help...NOT! 

I've still got a lot to learn with decals and CA.


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## leestoresund (Apr 22, 2012)

Do you guys notice a big difference between laser decals and inkjet decals?
I bought some laser decal paper and the printed colors were very faded. (Comparison between copy paper and decal paper.) They replaced the decal paper but with inkjet decal paper.

I saw the name of a new (to me) supplier. Maybe I will try them.

Lee


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## bubbamorse (Apr 22, 2012)

leestoresund said:


> Do you guys notice a big difference between laser decals and inkjet decals?
> I bought some laser decal paper and the printed colors were very faded. (Comparison between copy paper and decal paper.) They replaced the decal paper but with inkjet decal paper.
> 
> I saw the name of a new (to me) supplier. Maybe I will try them.
> ...



Inkjet printers provide (typically) a finer resolution for printing, so I think the problem of fading lies there....


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