# Finishes?



## Laurenr (Sep 17, 2014)

I am looking for a new finish.  CA has been my default for a long time. I have been known for it, and have demo-ed it for many clubs. However, it isn't always the best for every pen. Now that I am reasonably successful with kitless, I am looking for something a little more "natural." 

I want it to deeply protect the wood, and lend itself to a fairly nice shine. I know that I am asking for trouble here, but would some of you share your ideas. I am interested in finishes for wood only, ...I am down with the rest.

Go!

Lauren

PS. I will be posting pics very soon.


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## thebillofwrites (Sep 17, 2014)

I have had some really good results with Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish, and Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer.

Each has it's own unique qualities. I get more gloss from the lacquer, but neither reach the CA level of gloss. For me anyway.

Bill


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## raar25 (Sep 17, 2014)

thebillofwrites said:


> I have had some really good results with Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish, and Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer.
> 
> Each has it's own unique qualities. I get more gloss from the lacquer, but neither reach the CA level of gloss. For me anyway.
> 
> Bill


 
Bill do you apply those on the lathe?


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## thebillofwrites (Sep 17, 2014)

raar25 said:


> thebillofwrites said:
> 
> 
> > I have had some really good results with Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish, and Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer.
> ...



Well, yes I do apply them while they are on the lathe, but not in the same way that CA is.

I thin the Tru-Oil with mineral spirits, and if I am using the lacquer, I thin it with reducer.

Then I spay as many coats as desired with an airbrush, and the lathe spinning very slowly. I have a small sherline lathe with a speed control that allows very slow speeds.

After drying completely you can sand, buff and polish for a nice shine. or stop sooner for a   satin, or matte finish.

Should mention that really oily woods can cause headaches.

Regular old DEFT lacquer from the home center works very well also. I just used the Nirocellulose lacquer cause I have it around for other projects.

There are other methods to apply both products, (including "dipping" for the lacquer), and you can find loads of info in the library here, and elsewhere with great tips and tricks. 

Find Russ Fairfields write-up on finishing with lacquer. LOTS OF GOOD INFO !!!!!

Bill


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## Jim Burr (Sep 17, 2014)

Down with the rest...rest of?? Have you tried a knock down CA? What about WOP? Looked at Les Elms dipped finish?


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## plantman (Sep 18, 2014)

I have used a water based finish called Hydracoat for over 25 years. Drys clear in 15 minutes and is super hard in 24 hours.   Jim  S


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## dtswebb (Sep 19, 2014)

Pens Plus from Doctor's Woodshop.  I use the technique that Mike Schmitt (mikespenturningz) described in a finishing post.  The finish is as high gloss as I want to use and it still leaves a natural appearance to the wood.


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## TonyL (Sep 20, 2014)

+1 on the Pens Plus


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## bjbear76 (Sep 24, 2014)

I too have abandoned the CA (most of the time) and use Pens Plus.  Very reliable for any wood type IMO.


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## thrustmonkey (Sep 24, 2014)

After having gone through a horrible nightmare with a pen finished with stickfast 2 years ago that I was about to ship out, I ordered some WTF to try that out. 
How does WTF compare to Pens Plus? I really liked the glossy finish that the CA produced. I've never used either WTF or PP, and I think I want to get away from ca if I can. Don't want to use something that's going to fail a few years down the road.

That stick fast failed on a flag inlay Gatsby. First it lifted at one end, fixed it. Lifted at the other end, fixed it. Started peeling off in layers along the whole pen, refinished it. Glue joint failed between the tube and the blank and the wood was destroyed. Luckily I had another kit in stock and was able to make another one for the customer. The pen was bought Friday night and I shipped it out this morning.

I'm not liking ca too much right now.

Ross

Look!!!!!!! More ca! I want to die


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## workhorse (Oct 23, 2014)

Hi, I have started turning my wood pens slightly below the bushing then friction polish
the blank, then cast it in Alumilit clear.


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## monophoto (Oct 23, 2014)

I make a lacquer friction polish from equal quantities of tung oil, lacquer thinner, and ordinary brushing lacquer.  You could use walnut oil or BLO instead of tung oil if you prefer  (walnut oil would produce a less amber color, BLO would be more amber - your choice).  Goes on very quickly, cures in minutes, is reasonably tough, and will build with multiple applications while still leaving the tactile feel of wood.


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## mikeinco (Oct 23, 2014)

Since I'm new at this, the only thing I've used is Pens Plus and I believe its great stuff. I have no desire to even try a CA finish and only use CA to fill small holes or cracks in wood. Just my 2¢.


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## TonyL (Oct 23, 2014)

I use the Pen Plus and the micro wax made by the same company. I can't say it comes close to the shine and depth of CA (nor do I know if it has the same protective qualities). I haven't tried Doc's walnut oil (which is in the PP). If you like the feel a wood-feel and more of a satin finish, I see PP working-out ok. This is just my exp. and being new, maybe I don't know what the heck I am doing .


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## Old Codger (Oct 23, 2014)

I'm with you...I hate using CA on pens!  I've switched to General Finishes Wipe On Finish and I'm quite satisfied with it!  It dries fairly quickly (within 10 minutes here in Washington...) and I can put several coats on to build up the desired finished and hardness.  I polish it with Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and then Carnuba Wax to give it the desired gloss & hardness.  Try it and see what you think...no horrible smell, sticky applications, cracks or other problems... Get rid of the CA!!!  Safe turning to you!


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## duncsuss (Oct 23, 2014)

Old Codger said:


> I've switched to General Finishes Wipe On Finish



I couldn't find that -- do you mean their Woodturner's Finish?


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## Crashmph (Oct 23, 2014)

Have you tried Craftcoat by Eco Advance?


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## TonyL (Oct 23, 2014)

I also could not find the general finishes product.


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## designer (Oct 24, 2014)

I think Rockler sells General as well as WC.

Manufacturer of country's finest Water Base & Solvent Base Wood Finishing, Coatings & Flooring Products | General Finishes


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## duncsuss (Oct 24, 2014)

designer said:


> I think Rockler sells General as well as WC.
> 
> Manufacturer of country's finest Water Base & Solvent Base Wood Finishing, Coatings & Flooring Products | General Finishes



It has nothing to do with finding a store that sells General Finishes products.

I cannot find *that* product -- "Wipe On Finish" doesn't show up when I do a search on the General Finishes website, or on Rockler, or on Woodcraft. I think he meant a product that has a different name.


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## TonyL (Oct 24, 2014)

I called GF about 20 minutes ago. They don't make a quick drying wipe-on finish for penturning or anything like penturning. They recommend brush or foam pad application for their enduro product which does dries fast, but also has an amber quality. The only fast drying wipe product that they recommended to me was their wood turners finish. Needless to say, I will add that to my inventory of finishes.


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## VirgilJ (Oct 25, 2014)

The finish is probably Enduro. General finish bought it several years ago. I think they call it Pre-cat poly. It's water based and is clear. I haven't used the General Finishes version, but I have used Enduro. It's a nice finish, but takes a long time to cure. Woodcraft sells it.


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## Taildragger5573 (Nov 14, 2014)

I saw hydracoat mentioned as a finish.  Does anyone know where I can get it?  I want to ensure I get the correct product.  I've searched and found hydro coat, hydrocote, etc.  some are bottom paints for boats.  Thanks in advance!


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## Wildman (Nov 14, 2014)

Like to buy finishing materials locally, and do not want an amber hue on wood pen so found MW Polycrylic fits the bill. There are other products that will work also. You have to read label or product information about color changes.

I have used this product for dipping and normally wait till next day to dip again.   I do put the blanks back on the lathe and sand with brown grocery bag between coats.  Think Russ Field said that is equivalent to about 2500 sandpaper.  

If want faster results can but it spray can. Have not used it in awhile because my Lowes does not carry it, but other Lowes stores do.  Just found out it is still available at my local 
Home Depot. 

Search Results for*minwax polycrylic*at The Home Depot


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## William Menard (Nov 14, 2014)

have you considered craft coat?


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## Old Codger (Nov 14, 2014)

Sorry Gang!  I must have missed the responses to my original posting, but the name of the wonderful finish I use is: General Finishes, Wood Turners Finish, Clear - water based finish.  I've used this finish to replace CA finishes as I can't deal with CA finishes, they smell, are toxic, and have all sorts of difficulties that I won't deal with any longer!  General Finishes Wood Turners Finish takes a bit longer, but has NONE of the draw backs that CA and finishes hard and very durable.  I let it cure for at least 24 hours and then use Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and then Beal's Carnuba Wax before finally buffing pens, bowls, etc. out and love the finish it leaves... I'll never go back to using CA and can't imagine anyone still using it except that it is quick and easy to use.  CA is a wonderful quick glue, but as far as a finish...not for me!!!


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## duncsuss (Nov 14, 2014)

Old Codger said:


> Sorry Gang!  I must have missed the responses to my original posting, but the name of the wonderful finish I use is: General Finishes, Wood Turners Finish, Clear - water based finish.  I've used this finish to replace CA finishes as I can't deal with CA finishes, they smell, are toxic, and have all sorts of difficulties that I won't deal with any longer!  General Finishes Wood Turners Finish takes a bit longer, but has NONE of the draw backs that CA and finishes hard and very durable.  I let it cure for at least 24 hours and then use Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and then Beal's Carnuba Wax before finally buffing pens, bowls, etc. out and love the finish it leaves... I'll never go back to using CA and can't imagine anyone still using it except that it is quick and easy to use.  CA is a wonderful quick glue, but as far as a finish...not for me!!!



Thanks -- I thought that was the one, but didn't want to make assumptions


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## wouldentu2? (Nov 15, 2014)

I have tried the WTF and have not liked the process since it takes longer to dry and too many coats to fill in grain. How many coats do you find it takes to cover say 
Walnut? Am I missing something here? I have to use the odorless CA to avoid the cold symptoms of it.


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## Dan Masshardt (Nov 15, 2014)

wouldentu2? said:


> I have tried the WTF and have not liked the process since it takes longer to dry and too many coats to fill in grain. How many coats do you find it takes to cover say Walnut? Am I missing something here? I have to use the odorless CA to avoid the cold symptoms of it.



I don't really care for it on pens.  Other stuff a bit more.   Some airbrush it successfully. 

Regardless of the finish I use, on pens. There are no open pores noticeable when I begin finishing.   

This is accomplished by utilizing Sanding dust and either ca or pens plus during the sanding process.


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## Big (Nov 15, 2014)

+1 on the Pens Plus


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