# Help with making blanks from logs



## MayPalette (Nov 23, 2019)

Hey all, 

I am often asked to make a blank from a cut or fallen log from someone’s front yard. Specifically a pen blank for the sentimental value of a “family tree”, including oak, cedar, walnut, mahogany, etc. 
Everything from 12-14” in diameter to 2-3” in diameter. I usually chicken out and say no because I don’t know the drying time/aging process. I know typically dry time is 1 year/inch but am sure there are other methods. I’m really looking at pen blanks (or small bowls), which are small and hopefully quicker than that dry time if you cutup and/or treat in advance. I’ve read some about the painting edges, soaking in pentacryl, etc... but nothing for pen blanks with specific wood types or dry times. 

So, I was hoping to ask some others who may have tried... if so, what did you use, what wood, how long, etc. And are there any lessons learned in the process? 

Thank you in advance!!


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## howsitwork (Nov 23, 2019)

I can only comment from drying small diameter logs upto about 10” diameter. I cut in half  down the centre to remove the central pith section . then seal the ends with a wax based end grain sealer , or gloss paint also works but takes longer to dry .

The put in a dry place, out of direct sunlight and leave them alone with the bark on the outside. Watch out for wood worm and treat if found . I get some splitting generally on the exposed surface can get lots of decent pen blanks out of even a 2ft log. I generally ignore them for at least 2 years but a lot depends upon your humidity . If it’s a hot area then try to limit airflow over them a bit to slow the drying . Wet area, add some newspapers, which you keep chang8ng to hep remove moisture.  So far had some good results with HOLLY, YEW , WALNUT and CHERRY but the latter was a problem with woodworm.

I have tried putting part turned bowls in boxes wrapped in newspaper and leaving apart from changing the paper every couple,of months but as yet too early to give you any info on how effective that is.

Try it all,you need is a bit of space, Don’t tell my wife that latter bit as shes a bit tired of falling over “essential logs” !


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## alanemorrison (Nov 23, 2019)

Cut into blanks and microwave them a wee bit at a time, making sure that they don't burn.


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## MRDucks2 (Nov 23, 2019)

I cut into either over sized blanks or over thick slabs ie 1”. 
Sticker them in stacks in an out of the way place. In a climate controlled shop. 
+/- 90 days are in equilibrium with the shop. 
I then trim to size and wax the ends of the blanks by dipping in paraffin. 
I check WMC before using, dry in toaster oven for a couple of hours if needed. 
If storing the logs, I store them with ends either sealed with Elmer’s rot stop or paint.


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## Ironwood (Nov 23, 2019)

I have cut up hundreds of blanks from timber that I harvested myself, Australian Timbers, not that it really matters.
Cut them into blanks straight away, but cut a bit bigger to allow for shrinkage and warping, eg, if you want 3/4” blanks, cut at 7/8”, you can square them up to size later on the tablesaw or bandsaw.
This way you will be turning them in months not years time.
And as Alan said, if you are in a hurry, a few bursts in a microwave will speed up the drying process.


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## Woodchipper (Nov 23, 2019)

My shop is inside with heat and A/C. Wood seems to dry real good.


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## dogcatcher (Nov 23, 2019)

I start by explaining to the person the process of getting the wood into blanks and the drying time involved.  I also tell them what I consider the labor time I would have to charge for doing that.  Usually by then they realize it will be expensive.   

My process, I cut all blanks into 1x1 as long as I can, then wax the ends and weigh each one, then stack and sticker.  3 months later I weigh again , again in 3 months.  Then they get weighed monthly.  When they quit losing weight, they are ready to turn.  

Those free wood blanks are expensive when you add in process time.


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## wolf creek knives (Nov 23, 2019)

I don't want to take away from anyone else's post but here's how I handle the big stuff.  Break out your chain saw and cut the log to a 7" length.  Once I've got my 7" pieces I go to the band saw and cut it in half.  Now, if it's too big around to use the band saw, the chain saw will cut it in half for you.  Once I've got the piece in workable sizes I cut it into smaller pieces on the band saw and then cut it to size on the table saw, which is usually 7" x 1".  That's the big ones.  The small limbs I cut to the 7" length on the band saw, create a flat spot on the piece using your belt sander and then cut it to size on the band saw.  We're very dry here in Montana, humidity wise, so wood cut like this dries out pretty quick.  I've been able to salvage a lot of wood using this technique, one being Manzanita,  it's doesn't get very big.  On my property there's lot's of Service berry and Rocky Mountain Maple and I use technique two for each of these.  I just recently had some Russian Olive given to me...as limbs and stumps.  I used my technique for all of it and just turned my first pen with it and it came out pretty good.  Oh and why 7" lengths?  It allows for shrinkage and let's you cut off the checks and splits that usually occur with green wood.  Usually anyone who gives me some "special" wood gets a free pen out of the deal.  It shows your appreciation for them thinking about you but they are also more than willing to tell people about their pen.  Kind of like free advertising.


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## PBorowick (Nov 24, 2019)

I am working on an experiment with fresh cut hawthorn wood that I am drying using silica gel.
Its been about 2 weeks and they are drying nicely without much warping.  I have weighed them several times and they are steadily losing weight.
I will be posting more on what I find when the experiment is done.


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