# Teacher needs guidance



## iamsam (Mar 20, 2006)

I would like to apply a finish on a pen that holds up and does not take a long time to complete. I am basically new at turning. I teach school and would like to show my students how this might be done. Kids want instant results now a days.Can somebody list the steps and best materials to use? I will try it myself before I share it with the kids. Thanks........


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## Dario (Mar 20, 2006)

Sadly the one that comes to mind is CA...something you probably don't want students to be working with without proper respiratory protection (among others).

If you want to try it, search for CA finishing.  Fangar recently did a how-to...it is not the simplest but check the results for your self. []


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## Gary Max (Mar 20, 2006)

Fast and easy are to words that seldom work together.
Dario's thought on CA is about as close as you can get.


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## JimGo (Mar 20, 2006)

Another option is to simply turn the pen using a hard, oily wood like Cocobolo, Lignum Vitae, African Blackwood, Olive, etc.  If you use MicroMesh and/or something like EEE on them, those woods don't need much of a finish at all, especially if you're OK with a satin-type (i.e. non-high-gloss) finish.  You can then get away with just applying some TSW, letting that cure, and buffing to get a very nice shine.


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## pete00 (Mar 20, 2006)

How about

no finish at all, but shiny and kinda clever.(burnishing)

After turning and sanding take a piece of pine or some shavings.
While lathe is still on use them to "sand" the piece.
If you use shavings hold them with a rag while putting it on the wood.
May get hot, You'll be supprised at the results you get.
You can then use some common furniture polish if you want.

pete


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## wood-of-1kind (Mar 20, 2006)

BUFFING method comes to mind. I am really surprised that this method does not get the respect that it deserves. It is easy to apply and very easy on the lungs. Apply the three compounds and buff away for an almost instant result.

-Peter-[^]


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## mrcook4570 (Mar 20, 2006)

> _Originally posted by iamsam_
> <br />I would like to apply a finish on a pen that holds up and does not take a long time to complete. I am basically new at turning. I teach school and would like to show my students how this might be done. Kids want instant results now a days.Can somebody list the steps and best materials to use? I will try it myself before I share it with the kids. Thanks........



So why not also teach the kids about patience []

Turning plastics would allow for the fastest results with good durability.  Just turn, sand through the highest grit you have or micro mesh, then buff or use a plastic polish.


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## Rico (Mar 20, 2006)

Sam, 
I had trouble putting a finish on a certain wood pen one time so I tried something other than the standard finish. I put a piece of cardboard behind the pen still on the lathe and turning by hand I used a can of spray lacquer. I sprayed several coates letting it tack up prior to the next. I allowed it dry on the mandrel before handling. It came out nice and shiny and I didnt have to polish it at all. Hope this helps.


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## Gary Max (Mar 20, 2006)

Heck try this ----make the pen out of Cherry and use Johnsons paste wax. If you do a good job of sanding and apply a couple of coats you can get good results at very little cost -- plus very safe to use.


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## Johnathan (Mar 21, 2006)

I can just see the horror of 30 kids running around with their fingers glued together![]
I'm thinking a basic friction polish and Ren wax. would be nice. Fast and a good finish to begin things with.


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## Mac In Oak Ridge (Mar 21, 2006)

Thin laquer about 50/50.  Put a piece of wire, about 10" long, through each pen blank with an eye twisted on one end of the wire. Dip the pen blank in the finish.  Quickly bend a 90Â° crank on the end of the wire and spin it around like an airplane propeller, about 45-60 seconds.  Bend the crank a little more and hang the blank over a clothsline like wire or a long stick.  Keep each half of the pen together and separated from the other pens.  After the first coat drys, about 30 min, end for end the blanks on the wires and do it again.  After the second coat drys, look things over and decide if they need a third coat.  After the last coat back to the lathe, micro mesh to 12M.  Then a wipe on and buff with TSW or RenWax.  Quick, simple and a very nice finish.


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## alamocdc (Mar 21, 2006)

Mac, that might be good for us, but I can just see a bunch of kids spinning these blanks around and getting the thrown off lacquer all over each other. []

Personally I think Jim had the right idea. Using the woods he mentioned you don't really need to finish them. MM all the way out, apply TSW, Ren Wax, or even good ol' Johnson's Paste Wax and they should shine nicely. They won't shine like lacquer, but they will have a definite sheen and as long as they are waxed properly. I do this frequently with woods like those mentioned.

Here is an example of just this.

<b>Image Insert:</b><br />


<br /> I'll let the "non-finish" speak for itself.


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## KenV (Mar 22, 2006)

The easy is to use shellac as a wipe on finish for a couple of coats and then wax.  The spray can of clear shellac will finish dozens of pens - spray a little on cloth or on paper toweling and wipe on.  Finish drys in a minute or two.  Looks good.  Will outlast wax, but not the big 3.  

Top coat with Enduro if you want an upgrade and no fumes.  But the curing takes a bit longer.  

Easiest of final finishes is Pledge or similar siliconized sprays.  Kiwi shoe wax is probably in 2nd place.


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## TomServo (Mar 24, 2006)

What about enduro lacquer? George has some water based lacquer that seems to cure faster than the enduro poly (the same guy owns/is on the board of both companies)


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## OSCAR15 (Mar 28, 2006)

Sanding down to a fine grit, particualrly on oily wood works great.  I use Shellaway a lot....Not the most durable, but it retains the feel of wood.  Easy to touch up when needed..Just a little lemon oil does the trick.  Oscar


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## jdavis (Apr 4, 2006)

We dip Deft with success


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