# MT2 Reamer how to?



## Dario (Jan 18, 2006)

I am having problem with my lathe's alignment which started producing non-centered pens (which explains why I am not turning much pens recently).

I tried all the fixes I read about it and some helped a bit but did not fix my problem.  Including buying a few mandrels.  As a last recourse I bought an MT2 reamer and it arrived yesterday.  

QUESTION....How do I use it?  My reamer have a square end which I am planning on holding with a vise grip...or do I just turn it with my hands?  Do I need to lube that thing before using?

Sorry I am clueless and aftraid of messing my lathe further if I "experiment".

Thanks!!!


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## btboone (Jan 18, 2006)

Dario, the ream should have a divot in the square end for a live center to hold on.  Just center it as well as you can and pull the chuck around by hand.  Use a wrench only to keep it from rotating. You just don't want it to chatter, so it's best not to do it under power.  No lube is necessary, although some WD-40 might help loosen up anything that gunked up in there.


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## Dario (Jan 18, 2006)

Thanks Bruce.

Follow up question.

Since the head stock and tail stock are not always aligned...it changes alignment as you rotate (thus the need to ream it)...is it still okay to engage the live center?

Also...how tight should I engage the tail stock?

Thanks again!


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## btboone (Jan 18, 2006)

Dario, if the headstock is not aligned with the tailstock, you should try to align whatever moves before reaming the headstock.  I assume the headstock is fixed.  If this is the case, your tailstock may need fine adjustment to match it.  These two need to match first and foremost.  Using the tailstock will be the only way that you'll have a good reference between the two.  Tighten the tailstock onto the ream such that you can still rotate the headstock by hand.  Ream enough to be sure they are in line.


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## Paul in OKC (Jan 18, 2006)

Dario, I wouldn't want to cut much if any out of the head stock. In my opinion, it doesn't make didly about how close your head stock is to your tail stock if you are turning with hand tools. You control the taper and size.  Now, if your head stock is not concentric, that is an issue, in which case a hand reamer is of no use, it needs to be machined. If you put the reamer in lightly by hand and turn it, it can clean out any small piece of junk that may have imbedded itself in there and thus take care of the problem.
Just my 2 cents.
Paul


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## ryannmphs (Jan 18, 2006)

Ok, I have a question about aligning the tailstock.  On both my Deltas (1440 & Midi) there is play in the tailstock. What I mean by "play" is when the lock is released and I can slide the TS I can move the TS not only left to right ( like I should be able to []) but towards and away from me, not much but around 1/16" or so.  Now I think I have figured out on both the lathes that if i pull the TS towards me, so that the TS is on the way that is nearest me, I get correct alignment.  Now, is there anyway to put a shim on the TS so I don't have to do this or what?

Thanks
Ryan


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## Dario (Jan 18, 2006)

Bruce,

The HS and TS are aligned...but the mandrel goes out of alignment because of a "hill" that built up inside the MT2 drive.  Something happened and a groove was formed and all the metal that got gouged from the groove formed a small mole/hill.  This "hill" causes my mandrel misalignment.  Same "hill" damages the MT2 of my mandrels (cutting/gouging a groove around them too).

I think it is a vicious cycle and I have to fix them all to totally eliminate the problem.

Not sure if I am making sense but I got what you meant and will try the fix later.  BTW, my lathe have a swiveling HS (Jet 1236).

Thanks!!!


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## Paul in OKC (Jan 18, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Dario_
> <br />Bruce,
> 
> The HS and TS are aligned...but the mandrel goes out of alignment because of a "hill" that built up inside the MT2 drive.  Something happened and a groove was formed and all the metal that got gouged from the groove formed a small mole/hill.  This "hill" causes my mandrel misalignment.  Same "hill" damages the MT2 of my mandrels (cutting/gouging a groove around them too).
> ...




The reamer, by hand, should take care of the HS. If you can file or sand the area on the tapers, that should take care of it. It won't matter if there is a low spot in a small area on the taper, it seats in a large enough area to compensate.


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## Dario (Jan 18, 2006)

Paul,

Exactly my thoughts about the tapers too...just want to make sure I get all the high areas outside the "normal line" of the taper.

I sure hope manual reaming is all the HS MT2 driver need...and should, if all is as I think they are. []

Thanks for all the help guys!!!


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## Doghouse (Jan 18, 2006)

You have 2 directions of cut with a reamer.  The cut and polish.  Put the reamer in the taper and GENTLY twist with the flat of the tooth going forward.  This will shave off the hump.  GO GENTLY AND SLOWLY.  You only want to shave off the hill not cut a new taper completely.  Once that is done, and you do not feel a "click" from the hill you are done cutting.  Wipe the reamer clean with a little air tool oil (not wd40 as it drys with a residue).  There should only be as much oil as there is on your skin.  Now do 1/2 turn backwards to polish the inside and buff the tool marks.  Wipe the newly reamed taper clean with paper towel.  It should not catch on anything on the inside.


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## Mac In Oak Ridge (Jan 19, 2006)

The reamer will line it's self up in the tapered hole.  Don't use your tailstock with a center in it to attempt to line it up.  Reason being is that if they are not lined up perfectly you will force the reamer to cut the hole off center. Doghouse has the picture quite clearly described.  You are not reaming a new taper, just cleaning off that little bump. It likely was caused by something turning in the headstock when the machine was running or a defect in the original machining that you have just found.  Most likely one revolution or less will clean out the bump you describe.  I would even remove the reamer after every 1/4 turn, clean the reamer and clean the hole and go another 1/4 turn so a fragment of metal doesn't get caught between the cutting edge and the hole and score the surface more.


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## Dario (Jan 19, 2006)

I tried a combination of the recommended procedure and it is now FIXED!!!

Since my lathe's HS and TS is alligned, I did engage the TS cranking the wheel so that the live center is engaged but still loose enough to rotate the reamer manually.  Did a couple turns then tightened it a bit again and repeated until I needed a wrench to turn it.  Cleaned up the hole and saw a bit of metal residue on one spot of the reamer...about 3" deep the MT2 driver hole.  Did the backward turn as John recommended, cleaned it again and I am done in less than 3 minutes (probably 2).

WOW...my lathe is running true again!

I hope there is a closer (reasonably priced) supplier of these reamers here (I bought mine from England).  I would encourage anyone having problems with "wobbly" mandrels to try this if all basic fix failed.

Thanks guys!!!


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## Mac In Oak Ridge (Jan 19, 2006)

England?  McMaster Carr in Atlanta.


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## Dario (Jan 19, 2006)

I see that the MT2 reamer at McMaster-Carr is $63.17...I bought mine for $21.00 plus $8.00 or so shipping.

That is why I said "reasonably priced". []


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Dario_
> <br />I see that the MT2 reamer at McMaster-Carr is $63.17...I bought mine for $21.00 plus $8.00 or so shipping.
> 
> That is why I said "reasonably priced". []



  Where did you buy that $21.00 reamer?


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## Dario (Jan 19, 2006)

eBay []  This a bit more but I got mine from this seller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-MORSE-TAPER-REAMERTO-MAKE-INTERNAL-MT-TOOLS_W0QQitemZ7559750270QQcategoryZ633QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem



I have the link at my other thread at casual coversation too http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12120


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 20, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Dario_
> <br />eBay []  This a bit more but I got mine from this seller.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/2-MORSE-TAPER-REAMERTO-MAKE-INTERNAL-MT-TOOLS_W0QQitemZ7559750270QQcategoryZ633QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
> ...




Thanks. I found this one  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582432438&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1

on eBay. Price is about $5 to $12, depending on luck. I wrote the seller and asked how it is held but his reply didn't help. If the narrow end is stuck into the taper, how do you hold the thing to turn and ream? If I knew the answer I would bid. It looks like the 'hold' part would be hidden inside the spindle. Can you help out the non-machinist here? [8)]


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## Dario (Jan 20, 2006)

Frank,

The one you saw won't work.

This is MT2 driven/mounted reamer...NOT to ream an MT2 driver.


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