# Buffing System??



## Randy_ (Jan 4, 2005)

I would like to have a little buffing system like the Beall 3-wheel system. Thinking about building my own because $90 seems a bit pricey for the Beall sysem. Anyone know a good source for buffing wheels?? The places I have found, so far, have one or two of the wheels used in the 3 wheel system; but not all three. Thanks!!


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## its_virgil (Jan 4, 2005)

Randy,
Have you read the thread about 5 or so folders dowm from this one? Take a look. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by Randy._
> <br />I would like to have a little buffing system like the Beall 3-wheel system. Thinking about building my own because $90 seems a bit pricey for the Beall sysem. Anyone know a good source for buffing wheels?? The places I have found, so far, have one or two of the wheels used in the 3 wheel system; but not all three. Thanks!!


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## Randy_ (Jan 4, 2005)

Yeah, Don, I saw it.  I'm sure it will start some people to thinking.  Once again, your ingenuity impresses me!!!   

I've got the metal parts handled, just need some reasonably priced buffing wheels.  I am hoping to put my unit together for about $25 if I can find some inexpensive wheels!!!


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## YoYoSpin (Jan 4, 2005)

Hartville Tool has the Beall 3-on-a-lathe buffer setup on sale for $78.90: http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11835. I've been using this system for quite a while, and love it.


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## its_virgil (Jan 4, 2005)

I use soft wheels I found at Home Depot. HF also has a nice selection of wheels. I would think most home ecnters would have wheels. don't know how they compare to the Beall wheels.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by Randy._
> <br />Yeah, Don, I saw it.  I'm sure it will start some people to thinking.  Once again, your ingenuity impresses me!!!
> 
> I've got the metal parts handled, just need some reasonably priced buffing wheels.  I am hoping to put my unit together for about $25 if I can find some inexpensive wheels!!!


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## Guest (Jan 4, 2005)

FWIW
I leave teh finished pen on the lathe and use different wheels on an electric drill.
I don't have space for a dedicated buffing system and couldn't afford the cost right now.
Haven't figured put what's if anything is "wrong" with the way I'm doing it now or how a buffing system differs from my method.
Since I've never used a "REEL" buffing system I wouldn't know.
If anyone has used my method and upgraded could you explain why a "Beale type" system is better for pens.(Not larger objects)
With the drill I can change direction and speeds easily.
The drill and wheels are kept nearby.
Please explain what I am missing.


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## tipusnr (Jan 4, 2005)

Eagle,

I'm not sure you're missing anything.  A lot of this is technique and that is very individual.  As long as you're comfortable with your method and it gives you the results you want...you're golden (Oops - just got the pun - golden eagle!)

I prefer the lathe mounted buffer as it allows me to have the pen blank in my hands instead of a piece of equipment which is more comfortable for me. I like the Bealle system because it is expandable to bowl buffers should I ever choose to make bowls (not in the NEAR future).  

I'm looking at the buffing setup that started this thread for two reasons: 1) to eliminated the setup and teardown time in switching buffing wheels and 2)two take some of the strain off my JET mini-lathe to extend its life.  As I already have a cheap lathe that isn't worth a whole lot as a lathe it makes a cost-effective solution for me.  The only downsize is finding space for a dedicated buffer in my shop.  Your set-up seems to be quite space effective.

Some of this really IS personal preference and skill level.


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## Guest (Jan 4, 2005)

Some of this really IS personal preference and skill level.


For lack of a better term,how much is tool "snobbery"?


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## RussFairfield (Jan 4, 2005)

You can make a reasonable buffer by turning two end plugs for a long nap lambs wool paint roller and spinning it in the lathe. They cost about $6. A set of of the tripoli/white diamond/wax in small sticks was about $5 the last time I looked.


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## tipusnr (Jan 4, 2005)

Great suggestion Russ, 

Those are the kinds of ideas I can REALLY get into!! You'd want separate rollers, or at least seperate sections for each of the mediums I would think.  Don't want to mix your tripoli and your wax!


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## Fred in NC (Jan 4, 2005)

Thanks, Russ.  Got my mind stirred up again.  

Tip, I think I can get rid of some of the nap in a couple places, leaving 3 separate sections.  I think they will be wide enough for pens.


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## RussFairfield (Jan 4, 2005)

I use 4 sections on one 9" roller, Tripoli, White Diamond. wax and bare. No separation other than where I hold the sticks to the wheel. No problems with contamination between the different bands in about 2 years.


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## Guest (Jan 4, 2005)

Most paint roller naps that Ive seen are synthetic.
(You can tell I shop in the cheap places huh?)
Aren't most buffing wheels Cotton or have a lot of cotton in them?


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## RussFairfield (Jan 4, 2005)

Note that I said a "Lambs Wool" paint roller, not the synthetic variety.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 4, 2005)

Got the lambs wool woller... ouch... almost $9, a buck an inch of roller!  3/4" nap should do well as a buffer.  Now to build a temporary mount for the lathe until I can put together a more permanent buffing station.


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## RussFairfield (Jan 4, 2005)

The Bealle wheels are Linen discs for the tripoli, alternate linen and cotton for the white diamond, and all cotton for the wax. I have some home-made wheels from bleached denim for all three and can't tell the difference.


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## Gary (Jan 5, 2005)

I use 6-inch muslin wheels for the first two compounds and cotton for the wax. I can't tell any difference in the wheels from Beall either.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 5, 2005)

Wow Russ !!  Now you tell me ...  I already used up all my denim making "OldJeanMascus" blanks....


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## DCBluesman (Jan 5, 2005)

Buffing wheels from $4.00 up along with compounds from $2.50 can be found on pages 144-147 of the new Grizzly catalog.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 5, 2005)

Just made a paint roller buffer!

I bought a wool paint roller, as per Russ' suggestion.  It has a 3/4" nap.  Very sweet!

My plan is to make a dedicated buffer based on the paint roller.  That is, it will have its own motor and stand.

In the meantime, I wanted to use the roller in my lathe.  The roller has an inside diameter of about 1-1/2". This is what I did:

Turned a 6" piece of pine to 1-3/4".

Marked 3 sections: 2-1/8", 3/8", 3-1/2"

The 3/8" was left at the 1-3/4" diameter.

The 3-1/2" section was turned to fit inside the paint roller. I put a slight taper at the end.

I measured a #2 Morse taper, and turned that at the 2-1/8" end. I turned the taper about 1/16" oversized, and used coarse sandpaper to bring to size until it fit just right.




<br />
Looks crude in the pic, but this is just my prototype! []

I was going to turn a plug for the other end of the paint roller, to fit in the live center, but I found that my live center is a perfect fit for the roller's end.  So this part has been postponed.

I think this is going to work great!

Total cost, $9 for the paint roller, scrap wood, some shellac.


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## tipusnr (Jan 5, 2005)

Most excellent dude!


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## RussFairfield (Jan 5, 2005)

Muslin?? Isn't that just another weave from cotton??


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## Gary (Jan 6, 2005)

Yes Russ, muslin is a weave of cotton. I suppose I should have phrased that differently. The muslin wheels I use are sold by that name (muslin) whereas the wheel I use for wax is sold as a "soft cotton" wheel. It has a softer feel than the muslin wheels. I don't know if the difference is in the thread count or some form of processing of the cloth or what. But it does feel softer.


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## Randy_ (Jan 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by YoYoSpin_
> <br />Hartville Tool has the Beall 3-on-a-lathe buffer setup on sale for $78.90: http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11835. I've been using this system for quite a while, and love it.



Ed:  Other problem with the Beall System, besides the price, is that according to the catalog, it is 18" long which would seem to be too long to fit in my JET mini!!


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## PenWorks (Jan 13, 2005)

Randy, just fits, I have a jet mini and a beall buff. Never had a better finish on my resins, till I got one.  Anthony


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## Randy_ (Jan 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Fred in NC_<br />Got the lambs wool woller... ouch... almost $9.....


Fred:  That's a bargain!!  A "_<u>SINGLE</u>_" replacement wheel for the Beall system is $15 and remember that you need 3 of them!!!


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## Randy_ (Jan 13, 2005)

My sincere thanks to all for your comments!!!  I've gotten a bunch of good ideas and  will have a good buffing system in place shortly and for a lot less money than what a Beall system would have cost me!!


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## Gregory Huey (Jan 13, 2005)

I tried the lambs paint roller from last weeks imfo WORKS GREAT. Ah old blue jeans you say.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 13, 2005)

Glad to hear that the idea is working for others too!

Tips: 

If you buff a finished (already assembled) pen, hold on to it with both hands!  Or you might find yourself playing a dart game.

Remove the tool rest from the banjo.  It gets in the way.

The section used to buff the wax can be primed with a little wax before the first use.  

My idea was published in the Woodcentral articles section. Look about 2/3ds down this page:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=turning&file=articles_486.shtml


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## PenWorks (Jan 13, 2005)

Nice article Fred. I'm not going to make one. But that was a very beautifull cabinet you made for your mini. [] If I used a stand like that in my demo, I would get more orders for cabinets then PENS[]


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## Fred in NC (Jan 13, 2005)

Thanks, Anthony.  Demos were in my mind when I decided to build the cabinet. It is on wheels and there is storage space inside. So far no demos.  Also, the fact that I mounted the DC motor under the lathe head (inside the cabinet).


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## jwoodwright (Jan 13, 2005)

Looks like it's time to get a Lambswool paint roller and follow Russ's and Fred's lead.[8D]


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## J. Fred Muggs (Jan 13, 2005)

I, personally, prefer to keep my lathe occupied for turning.  Any old 1800 RPM (nominal) motor with 1/2" or 5/8" shaft and about 1/3 H.P. or more can be used as a very effective buffer.  Lots of places sell arbors to fit the motor shaft with a threaded end. One of these with a buffing wheel and you're in business.  I use a separate arbor and muslin wheel for all three (tripoli, white diamond, and carnauba).  I use 8" wheels from Harbor Freight (about $4.00 each as I recall. 8" since I also do big turnings.  One set screw changes the wheels in seconds.  I keep the wheels in gallon sized zip locks when not in use to avoid contamination from sawdust and other foreign material.

Don't get me wrong, Russ's paint roller deal is great if you have limited space and don't mind changing from whatever you were doing on the lathe to buff. Same deal with the Beall system. But, I got the motor for free from an old furnace, and maybe $25 +/- in arbors, wheels, and compounds, and I've got a stand alone system.

Like two or three have already said, Is' really a matter of personal preference.[8D]


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## GregMuller (Jan 13, 2005)

Hey Fred,
Can you post a picture of what you have done. I have an old router motor that i was thinking about useing but don't know what how to attache the wheels to the shaft. A picture of what you have made may help me. Thanks.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 13, 2005)

Greg: A pic of the taper is in this thread.  Look back one page.
I think routers are too fast for buffing!


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## woodpens (Jan 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GregMuller_
> <br />Can you post a picture of what you have done. I have an old router motor that i was thinking about useing but don't know what how to attache the wheels to the shaft. A picture of what you have made may help me. Thanks.


Don't routers turn at about 28,000 rpm? You'll be covered in a cloud of what used to be buffing wheels if you're not careful. [B)]


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## btboone (Jan 13, 2005)

I agree Jim.  That's way too fast for safety.  Anything with any mass and that's sticking out 9 inches will instantly whip at 90 degrees and strike whatever's in its path.  Much safer on a lathe at around 2000 rpms and that gets held at both ends.

I'll buy a rod of UHMW plastic and I'll precision CNC turn some mandrels.  I'll offer them for maybe $15 for the pair.  Fred gets to test out the first pair.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 13, 2005)

Ah, Bruce!  You mean I get a ROYALTY for the idea ?  Well, Thanks!!!!


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## Gregory Huey (Jan 13, 2005)

I will be ready for a set when they are done. I would really can the router idea way to many R's. You may wind up eating something you don't want like the buffer pad.


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## btboone (Jan 13, 2005)

You'll have to fill out a whole new tax form for your royalty []


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## btboone (Jan 13, 2005)

I ordered material from MSC at 8:00pm.  They said it would be here tomorrow.  I love those guys!  In all the years I've ordered from them, they almost always have stuff in stock, and I (being in Atlanta near their hub) always get things the next day.  If anyone hasn't checked them out, they need to.  They have a huge warehouse, probably over 500,000 sq feet with stuff stacked to the ceiling.  Milling machines are stacked 5 high on the shelves.  Pretty impressive.

I'll hack some out with Fred as my mentor and I'll put them on a secret page on my site where they can be ordered using any of the payment forms.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 13, 2005)

Hehe, Bruce.. mentor?  more like tinkerer!!!!


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## GregMuller (Jan 13, 2005)

OK i will can the router motor and i will take a pair of the mandrels.


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## RussFairfield (Jan 13, 2005)

UHMW?? CNC?? Wow, you guys are getting high tech about these things. I made mine from a piece of old closet rod the fit the roller and stuck the roller to it with RTV.


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## btboone (Jan 13, 2005)

Yes, nothing but high tech all the way.  An all titanium version is available for the hard core turners. []
I'll try to have some by this weekend.  I'll send my first ones to Fred so he can test them out.  (My lathe doesn't have a morse taper, so I don't use normal mandrel systems.)


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## btboone (Jan 14, 2005)

Hey Fred, The mandrels are in the mail.  They look like they should work OK.


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## btboone (Jan 14, 2005)

Here's a pic.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 14, 2005)

Wow!  Bruce, that is great, I can't wait to test it! Thank you very much.  I will let you know as soon as I test the parts in my lathe.  Looks like they will work just fine.


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## btboone (Jan 14, 2005)

Fred, You should have seen the lathe as they were turning.  The plastic gets all wrapped around the part as it turns.  I have to stop the program 3 times to clear the huge ball of plastic strands.  It actually tripped out the lathe a couple times on the first runs.  I made a couple and dialed in some dimensions.  I have my secret page on my website all ready to go.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 14, 2005)

Bruce, I have turned UHMW in a metal lathe.  I had to cut the strands with a knife!  Nylon is about the same, and so is PVC. There must be a better way, but I don't know it.


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## woodpens (Jan 15, 2005)

> _Originally posted by btboone_
> <br />Fred, You should have seen the lathe as they were turning.  The plastic gets all wrapped around the part as it turns.  I have to stop the program 3 times to clear the huge ball of plastic strands.  It actually tripped out the lathe a couple times on the first runs.  I made a couple and dialed in some dimensions.  I have my secret page on my website all ready to go.


 Okay, where is your secret? []


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## btboone (Jan 15, 2005)

The secret page: www.boonerings.com/htmpages/buffmandrels.htm

Knock three times and use the secret handshake.


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## woodpens (Jan 15, 2005)

I just placed my order. I figure I will give it a shot. I hope to learn more about how people buff and what type of finish they apply before buffing.


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## Scottydont (Jan 15, 2005)

I just ordered a set Bruce. Thanks!


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## btboone (Jan 15, 2005)

Thank you guys.  I hope they are worthy.  You are the masters of this stuff.  I'm just getting started.


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## PenWorks (Jan 15, 2005)

Bruce, I'm impressed [^]  You work faster than your CNC machine []
You have the parts cut, the web page up, you probablly cast 100 resin blanks allready and still manage to keep your ring business going []

Makes me want to throw away my Beall buff and get a FRUSS buff. []

Nice work, take a break. []      Anthony


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## btboone (Jan 15, 2005)

yup.  Time for sleep.  I's hard to get out of "GO MODE" sometimes.  I got a few tension set rings done that I was shooting to complete.  Monday's a mail holiday so I wanted stuff to go out later today.  

I am still waiting on my casting resin though... I ordered all the color tints. []


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## Fred in NC (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by btboone_
> <br />Here's a pic.



I just received the parts from Bruce, and they look just like the pic!
Very nice fit and workmanship!


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## Randy_ (Jan 18, 2005)

Not to take anything away from Bruce; but I am wondering......??  Everyone who purchased the "kit" from Bruce presumably has a lathe of their own??  Why not turn your own buffing mandrel??  I took a 13" piece of scrap 2x4, turned a taper on one end and cut it down to the ID of a paint roller.....looks sort of like a one handled rolling pin??  Took me all of 15 minutes and works like a charm!!


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## Fred in NC (Jan 18, 2005)

Randy, I posted pics of my homemade wood mandrel earlier in this post. It is a 2 piece set like Bruce's.  

What you are using is the same Russ' idea, with a different mandrel. As long as it works !!!

So there is a choice, make or buy!


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## PenWorks (Jan 18, 2005)

Well Randy a couple of things come to mind [}]

1. Bruce needs the work to provide for his wife & family [V]

2. He makes more money making 15.00 parts than 600.00 rings []

3. Or some of us just have to have the latest in hig tech CNC machined caps to put on our paint rollers []

Sorry, just in one of those moods [}]  Have a great day []


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## Fred in NC (Jan 18, 2005)

Anthony, I vote for # 2 above.


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## btboone (Jan 18, 2005)

#4; I love the ball of chips that come off the lathe. []

Randy, you certainly have a valid point.  For those wanting to save money, the 2 x 4 mandrel is best.  For those wanting to save time or have very precise machined ones, they pay for that option.  I thought that there would be others with those interests in mind, so I created some.  Judging from the response, I would say I was right about that.  It's not really about the money (one crash of the machine would certainly negate any potential profits,) it's about having the good stuff.  It's a niche, and really is more of a philosophy.

I have come to adapt the philosophy of getting the best equipment you can afford at the time. This came after being burned by a very expensive machine that wouldn't make the parts I had bought it to make.  It was close to a half million dollars and payments were something like $6000 per month. []  I was eyeing a much better machine that cost a little more and would have done the job, but instead I settled.  It wouldn't make the parts I bought it to make. Doh!  I lost my shirt on that one, having to sell it back to the company for a huge loss, and I vowed to never do that again.  I now always strive to get the best "stuff" I can afford whether the perceived difference is big or small.  I don't even question it anymore.  Doing that is always dependant on the financial situation at the time, which changes constantly and is certainly different for different people.  I just wanted to offer a precision option to those who want it.  If I did mandrel work, I know I would want one.


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## Randy_ (Jan 18, 2005)

For me, there are always more "wants" than there are dollars to acquire them so I have to watch my pennies pretty closely.  I started this thread looking for an alternative to the Beall buffing system which would have cost me right at $100.  My new buffing system....a la Russ & Fred.....will run me about $20.  I'm guessing there will be very few if any folks who will be able to tell whether my pens are buffed on a Beall or a FredRuss.  Eighty bucks is a lot to pay for a name and no apreciable difference in performance.  That's $80 I will have to spend on a tool where the extra money WILL get me a "better" tool!!  For those who chose an alternative solution to the problem, different strokes for different folks!!!  []


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## Fred in NC (Jan 18, 2005)

Well, Randy, THANKS !!!!!!

One more IAP invention.. the FredRuss...

Bruce, what shall we call the UHMW ones you are making?
PolyBruce?


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## btboone (Jan 18, 2005)

Randy, I certainly agree that yours was money well spent.  A rotating shaft is a rotating shaft.  During my rant, I was reminded of another manufacturer of rings that buys the cheapest used lathes and converts them to CNC for probably less than a thousand bucks.  That's fine for saving money, but it does limit him in the long run.  By getting a better lathe, each and every ring I make is faster and has a much better surface finish than was possible before.  This saves me tons of time and allowed me to expand my line and persue markets that I couldn't have otherwise.  While yes, the payback time is longer, I feel it's worth it to get the very best tool that my livelyhood depends on.  The pens are yet another unforseen benefit of getting the better lathe than what I anticipated at the time.  I was agonizing at the choice of lathe when I got it.  I could have gotten a used one, but I knew that the technology wasn't the same and I'd kick myself for doing it.  It stored 16 programs, the one I got stores thousands, and I have written thousands of them.  I also looked at one that was twice the cost because it was bigger and had live tooling.  I probably would have gotten it if it didn't take 160 amps at 220 volts and I'd need to remove part of my door to get it in.  The decision fell in my lap, and I'm glad I chose the lathe I did.  When the cost is all divided down, the payments I need to make are something like $80 per month.  Chump change in the scheme of things.  The increase in capability was worth more than a hundred times that.  Boone's law: when buying a piece of equipment that can matter for your future, get the best you can afford.  You might be surprised at how little it costs.

Fred, how about calling them YooMoo.  Kinda like UHMW but easier to say. []


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## Fred in NC (Jan 18, 2005)

Good, Bruce.... the YooMoo Buffing Mandrel is born !


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## btboone (Jan 18, 2005)

Or they could be called the Buff Studs. []


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## Randy_ (Jan 19, 2005)

BOONEBUFFS???   [][][]


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## btboone (Jan 19, 2005)

[]


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## Fleabit (Jan 19, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GregMuller_
> <br />OK i will can the router motor and i will take a pair of the mandrels.


Acually you can put a speed adjuster on the router.  You can dial in the RPM's to almost nothing.  I use one on my router.  Real cheap from harbor frieght.  Just make sure you don't bump the dial while buffing [B)].


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## woodscavenger (Jan 21, 2005)

I am kicking myself for not seeing this thread a few days earlier.  I too was looking for a low cost alternative.  I have an old cheap spindle lathe collecting dust so I bought a length of 5/8" threaded rod, a few wachers and nuts, and a couple of buffing wheels at Home depot (total cost ~$20)  I put one end in and old self centering metal chuck, sandwiched the wheels between the nuts and washers, and drilled a small pilot hole in the other end for the tailstock center and there you go.  My version of the Beal system, but looking at yours, I thing I might have to try the paint roller system.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 21, 2005)

Shane, please don't kick yourself too hard !!!

First of all, your setup is probably as good as the Beall, it all depends on the buffing wheels you got. I am sure it will work just fine.

Second, cloth wheels are great for polishing and buffing.  But none that I have found are as soft as the wool paint rollers!
The WOOL paint roller is ideal for the final buffing.  I put TSW on the barrels and the resulting shine is incredible!

I have actually put TSW on finished pens, and buffed them with the wool roller.  CAUTION!  If you do this, make SURE you hold the pen securely with BOTH hands.  Otherwise you will create an IFO.


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## Guest (Jan 23, 2005)

HEy Boone!
Now that you got the hi tech paint roller buffer ends to put Beall out of business how about an affordable Collet chuck,MT2 taper with adjustable fingers for under $50.00?


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## btboone (Jan 23, 2005)

Eagle, you're killin' me!  []  I wonder if MSC might have something?


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## btboone (Jan 23, 2005)

Eagle, MSC does have the ER-20 and 25 collet series chuck available for MT2, but at a higher price.  They also have the double angle DA 100 series collet chuck.  The nut and split collets would be the problem for me to make.  Here's something that could actually work assuming you can use a retracting bolt:  http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PARTPG=NNSRAR2&PMPXNO=1807865


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## Fred in NC (Jan 23, 2005)

Bruce, I had already suggested that to Eagle.  

www.littlemachineshop.com   has the same kind of collet in several sizes, for about $12 !!!  It has the thread for a 3/8-16 rod drawbar.  I have a couple of them, they work fine.  

Personally, I think Morse tapers are not a good substitute for the tapers that were designed for collets, which have a steeper angle.


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## Guest (Jan 23, 2005)

Here's the deal
Inorder to save a lot of aggrivation and get a nice fit I have found I have to drill a shell casing DEAD center to make the  casing pens the way I make them.
I know a turner on another site who suggested the Beall collet system.
When I explained that funds were short,he guided me through making a "chuck" to hold the casings for drilling.(It kind of looks like the "cup from the cupa and ball game without the ball)
It has a Morse taper and a "barrel" that is turned and the I cut 8 radial kerfs on after drilling out the center for the casing.
The results have been decent but I can't help but think they would be even better with the Beall becase of the 12 jaw chuck.
I have in the past tried a Jacobs chuck with 3 contact points but wound up denting the tube.
I have seen machine collets that might work and are much less expensive that hte beall,but I don't know enough about machine tools to figure out how to attach it to a jet lathe.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 23, 2005)

Eagle, the collets that Bruce and myself have pointed out to you just go in the Morse taper, and you close them with a rod thru the spindle.  They will work fine with the shell casings.


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## Guest (Jan 23, 2005)

You don't think 3 point contact will marr the brass?


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## btboone (Jan 23, 2005)

Eagle, if the diameter closely matches the brass, it would not cause damage.  It's not really 3 point contact, it's more like circular contact with a couple segments missing.  There are also some collets like that made from nylon.  I know they're available in R8 taper, which is larger, so someone probably has morse taper ones as well.  They're called emergency collets or soft collets, and you drill whatever size hole you need in them.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 23, 2005)

Never found nylon ones, Bruce.  Maybe you can make the tapers in your CNC, and we can drill them to size.

Just a Morse taper with a 1" x 3/4" cylinder outboard.  

Put the taper in the lathe, push in all the way, and drill.  The cut the slits as needed.  It is easier to cut 4 slits.

Much easier would be to get a machinist type chuck for the lathe.


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## jwoodwright (Jan 23, 2005)

Fred,

If you do as written, then what closes the collet fingers?  Wouldn't they be flexible without a "locking" method...[?]

  "Just a Morse taper with a 1" x 3/4" cylinder outboard. 
Put the taper in the lathe, push in all the way, and drill. The cut the slits as needed. It is easier to cut 4 slits. "


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## btboone (Jan 23, 2005)

Yup.  I'd probably do it without the outboard part.  That might prevent them from pulling back enough and being as stiff.  It should be simple enough to do.  Aluminum or plastic would be easiest for such a thing.


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## Fred in NC (Jan 23, 2005)

John, the plastic should flex enough if you make the hole to just the right size.  You don't need much give, just a couple thousands.


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