# Liquid Glass - Liquid Gloss issues...!



## robutacion (Dec 19, 2009)

Hi everyone,

I have just finished putting this information on this thread, when I realize that for all purposes and reasons, this information should be on its own for better acknowledgment and reach by everyone, sorry *-D- NC*!.

So, here we go...!

Thank you for posting that, I wasn't aware that Liquid Glass could appear as a totally different product as the one I have. The Liquid Gloss I always known and order is a 2 part water based epoxy (in the old days wasn't water based but acetone or thiner based, nasty stuff for the health...!). The consistency of this gloss coat is like a "runny" honey on both parts A & B, both totally clear before and after mixed, particularly made to be poured
into flat surfaces so that the product can level itself before cure. This can make things a little difficult and tricky if the area you want to apply the coat on is not flat, this can be overcome by rotating the piece slowly continuously until the curing/drying starts, normally about 30 minutes.

This stuff is recommended as a single coat only, the consistency is similar to 50 coats with a normal varnish and thickness about 1mm or more if you want. You can control this by the quantity you pour into the surface to coat, particularly is is flat. On a pen, the material used for the pen has to be taken down to a under size of at least 0.5mm, then you control the thickness you want on it by doing the following;

*- If you want a minimal (about 0.5mm) coat, you don't wait for the mix to start setting (start thickening) about 15 minutes or so, after you have your bushings covered (tape or something- clear sticky tape is good and thin), there is if you coat it while the barrels are on the mandrel, but I would recommend doing it with the barrels inserted in a wooden/metal/alluninium rod with a "nudge" fit to the tubes so that they turn when mounted on the lathe (in between centers), you use the mix while it is most soft, there is immediately after mixing, using a small brush you control the amount of material you are putting on (do it with the lathe OFF). 

Brush the barrel lengthwise as if you were "painting" it, when the surface of the barrel(s) is/are all covered then, turn the lathe on the slowest speed you have, let it turn for 30 minutes or so, make sure there is no dust floating around while the coating is raw (not cured/dry). 
With this method you can do a reasonable number of barrels in one go, depending on the lathe bed length and stiffness of the rod you use, obviously!

Regardless of how rough the coating looks when you are brushing it, as soon as the lathe starts turning, the coating will totally level itself out, leaving this 
"glass" finish, reason to the product's name. The durability is identical to the products used to varnish wood/cork floors. It can also be use for casting ( more expensive than traditional castings resins), mainly if a pure water crystal clear finish is required.

After the coat is dry, (about 12 hours) you can proceed with the normal steps as you would do if the barrels have been coated with any other product, and then put all the bits together and admire the gloss finish achieve without any polish. Remember drying time and curing time are 2 very different things, care has to be taken when assembling the pen inside of the first 24 hours, the fully cure is achieved in temps, about 20C within 2 weeks, take this into consideration when you require to put your pens into transport and hands traffic, etc. 

OK, I'm done...!
Sorry is it took this long but, it did become apparent to me that my reference to the Liquid Glass, has brought some confusing and concerns due to the name existing under a totally different product(s). 

The product is also known as water based Liquid Gloss Epoxy!

http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalo...loss-125ml.gif

This pic below is a recent sample of the product but without being on the lathe to turn and spread evenly (leveling), I started mixing the product without realizing that I had 12 samples to do and only one lathe with a chuck on (the other GMC lathe is working as a disc sander!) so, I simply brushed the product on each blank (sample), hang it by the hook, do another and turn the first one upside-down, do the next, and the next and the next...! I was running for a little while, then when all coated, I keep rotating them manually until my hands couldn't do it no more...! don't worry, I've learn my lesson..., don't start mixing stuff that is going to start drying within minutes, without making sure you're ready...!







Cheers
George


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## rjwolfe3 (Dec 19, 2009)

Wow that is high gloss!


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## DurocShark (Dec 19, 2009)

Looks great! I happen to have some of that stuff on the shelf. Hmm...


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## witz1976 (Dec 19, 2009)

Yea...I seen this stuff in the local hardware store.  It looks amazing on tables as it gives an extremely high gloss and the wood underneath just glows.  

Thanks for posting this...I was curious how it could be used in pen turning.  I was thinking about just plugging the barrels and dipping it.


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## robutacion (Dec 19, 2009)

witz1976 said:


> Yea...I seen this stuff in the local hardware store.  It looks amazing on tables as it gives an extremely high gloss and the wood underneath just glows.
> 
> Thanks for posting this...I was curious how it could be used in pen turning.  I was thinking about just plugging the barrels and dipping it.



Dipping could be a good option if the product comes already premixed but this one is a 2 part epoxy so you have to mix it, unless you have a few to do, therefore have to mix a reasonable amount, you could use one of those disposable syringes large/wide enough to get the mixed product half way and then dip the "plugged" barrel. The most important thing is to put it on the lathe, drill, etc, that can turn slow for 30 minutes.

There are still lots of polyurethane specialized floor varnishes that come ready to use, those are equally strong/durable and are also self leveling, just a bit stronger on the fumes and smell until cured!

I use a particular floor coating product Floorseal from Feast Watson, that has the consistency of water, unfortunately is not a clear finish but finishes woods with great quality, shine and durability.

Another very good, clear, tough and easy to apply finish is the clear coat that vehicle painters use to finish most paints in our days, that stuff is strong..., may need cooking/baking but that wouldn't be difficult to do.

I thing one of the problems with "some" pen makers is that they aren't prepare to wait, while pen making.  Unless they can start turning the blank, give it a finish and assemble it in an hour or two, they are not interested.  This is not right nor is wrong, just eliminate them from ever discovering and using other finishes that could or not, produce better/different results than those they normally achieve.

There no set rules of how a pen should me made or finished, that is a fact, some may even justify their processes as something that works for them, fair enough, others may try everything in search of that perfect finish, others may find it interesting to try different things for no particular reason...! that's life.:wink:

Cheers
George


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## dankc908 (Dec 20, 2009)

So -- I'm a little confused here.  Should I look for "Liquid *Gloss*" or "Liquid *Glass*"?

TIA
Dan


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## robutacion (Dec 20, 2009)

dankc908 said:


> So -- I'm a little confused here.  Should I look for "Liquid *Gloss*" or "Liquid *Glass*"?
> 
> TIA
> Dan



Hi TIA,

Depending of where you are (country) the same product can be sold under either name, and maybe others that I'm not aware of so, the best thing is to pick one and start searching, you will recognize it when you found it!

At this point, this is the best I can do to help you, sorry...!

Cheers
George


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