# Turning Cedar Pens



## clark77494 (Dec 4, 2011)

I have a large order for some cedar pens and I'm having trouble getting them to have a high gloss finish. I am assuming it is because the wood is highly porous. Other woods like purple heart I can get a high gloss finish like glass. The procedure I have been using is.
1. Linseed Oil 
2. Sander Sealer
3. Turning wax brown bar
4. EEE Friction Wax
5. Hut Crystal coat. 

I have been wiping them down with a cotton rag after each step. 

When I tried using CA Glue bubbles start forming under the cedar wood. The procedure I have been using with CA Glue is:
1. Fold Rag Cotton T-shirt in a roll 
1. Coat of CA Glue Thin Coat
2. Spray with Activator
3. Add second coat of thin CA Glue let dry
4. Add 3 coats of Medium CA Glue, let dry 2 minutes between coats.
5. Use wet sand paper working from 1500 grit all the way to 12,000 grit.

Again this seems to work best on hard woods and not a soft wood like cedar. 

Is there a better procedure to use on softwoods?

Kent


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## Justturnin (Dec 4, 2011)

I would skip the shot of accelerator after the first coat.  I am thinking the cedar is taking in a lot of CA and the accelerator is foaming when it hits it.  I have seen CA do this when it is puddled.  Also, are you using aPump or arresol?  A pump could cause a drip to hit the CA and could cause this as well.  I dont use accelorato until about the 5th coat of CA and about every 5 coats after that on my way to 20 - 25 coats


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 4, 2011)

I've done CA on cedar and never had issues. Maybe try this: 3-4 coats thin CA, then sand with 300 grit until the shiny spots are all gone. A couple more coats, then sand with the fine stuff. One more coat of thin, then 3 or 4 coats of medium. You don't need activator on thin. You just need to hit the medium with activator, and wait about 45 seconds after you apply the medium to hit it with activator. After you get the medium down, you can hit it with fine grit until the shiny spots are gone, then one last coat of thin. Polish with MicroMesh, and add some liquid car wax and you should be in extreme gloss town.


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## clark77494 (Dec 4, 2011)

Justturnin said:


> I would skip the shot of accelerator after the first coat.  I am thinking the cedar is taking in a lot of CA and the accelerator is foaming when it hits it.  I have seen CA do this when it is puddled.  Also, are you using aPump or arresol?  A pump could cause a drip to hit the CA and could cause this as well.  I dont use accelorato until about the 5th coat of CA and about every 5 coats after that on my way to 20 - 25 coats



I'm using an arresol. Yikes!!! 20-25 coats that seems like it will take a long time to make. How long does it take you to make one pen?


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## clark77494 (Dec 4, 2011)

Drstrangefart said:


> I've done CA on cedar and never had issues. Maybe try this: 3-4 coats thin CA, then sand with 300 grit until the shiny spots are all gone. A couple more coats, then sand with the fine stuff. One more coat of thin, then 3 or 4 coats of medium. You don't need activator on thin. You just need to hit the medium with activator, and wait about 45 seconds after you apply the medium to hit it with activator. After you get the medium down, you can hit it with fine grit until the shiny spots are gone, then one last coat of thin. Polish with MicroMesh, and add some liquid car wax and you should be in extreme gloss town.



I will try that your technique with the CA. Also if I use the liquid wax by itself will that give it a semi gloss finish? The reason I ask is I have to make 50 pens by the end of the week to fill my Christmas orders.

Kent


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## Justturnin (Dec 4, 2011)

clark77494 said:


> I'm using an arresol. Yikes!!! 20-25 coats that seems like it will take a long time to make. How long does it take you to make one pen?


 
It only takes me about 5 mins to turn a pen, it take much longer to finish it.  Like many here I pride myself on my CA finish, it is Glass every time.  I only use thin CA so my finish takes about 15-20 mins (thin drys fast) to apply then I give it about another 20 to cure.  I used to use fewer and use Medium but I got more high spots w/ the medium so it took longer to sand it back to smooth.  Now the only time I use medium is if the wood has voids i need to fill.  Once my finish is on I drt sand slowly until the shiny is gone then I wet sand to w/in .06mm of my finished size and MM to 12k, sometimes I use Huts Ultra High Gloss but I dont see the differance over a well MM'ed blank.   Its not a race, its about quality, satisfaction and Pride in your finished product.  I know my finish will outlast any non CA finish out there.


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## clark77494 (Dec 5, 2011)

Justturnin said:


> clark77494 said:
> 
> 
> > I'm using an arresol. Yikes!!! 20-25 coats that seems like it will take a long time to make. How long does it take you to make one pen?
> ...


 
I will probably do that technique on the high end pens that go to the jewlery stores. (I get more money for those) Since I have 50 to get done by the end of the week. My pens parts came in yesterday that I had ordered a month ago. I have to hit the ground running and put a semi-gloss finish.

Kent

Kent


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 5, 2011)

I would not use just wax by itself on cedar. The cedar will probably be destroyed just by handling within a couple of weeks. When you get proficient, they way I do CA takes about 15 minutes or so. Not terrible, but it yields great results.


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## clark77494 (Dec 5, 2011)

Drstrangefart said:


> I would not use just wax by itself on cedar. The cedar will probably be destroyed just by handling within a couple of weeks. When you get proficient, they way I do CA takes about 15 minutes or so. Not terrible, but it yields great results.



Your right, I would use the same procedure to polish the pen and add the car wax. I will try it this morning on a pen I will use to write up my work orders all day and see how it holds up.

Kent


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 5, 2011)

clark77494 said:


> Drstrangefart said:
> 
> 
> > I would not use just wax by itself on cedar. The cedar will probably be destroyed just by handling within a couple of weeks. When you get proficient, they way I do CA takes about 15 minutes or so. Not terrible, but it yields great results.
> ...



If it goes well, you should get YEARS of use with minor hazing. I had one of mine get caight between my leg and the corner of new brick one time, and instead of trashi g the wood it just made a small divot on the CA. I was surprised. That was 170 pounds forcing it onto a clean, sharp edge.


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## SDB777 (Dec 5, 2011)

Cedar resin will make a finish turn 'cloudy/muddy'....well at least it does on CA for me.  I prefer to use the method that Les uses.....Poly.

It akes a lot longer, as you must wait for the poly to cure, but the finish is absolutely amazing!





Scott (not an instant finish process) B


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## sbwertz (Dec 5, 2011)

I've been turning a lot of cedar recently (my son has a downed ceder tree in his yard that has the most amazing lavender color!)  I use W.O. Young's CA/BLO finish on it with great success.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc


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## clark77494 (Dec 8, 2011)

SDB777 said:


> Cedar resin will make a finish turn 'cloudy/muddy'....well at least it does on CA for me. I prefer to use the method that Les uses.....Poly.
> 
> It akes a lot longer, as you must wait for the poly to cure, but the finish is absolutely amazing!
> 
> ...


 
What is the brand name for the Poly?


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## clark77494 (Dec 8, 2011)

sbwertz said:


> I've been turning a lot of cedar recently (my son has a downed ceder tree in his yard that has the most amazing lavender color!) I use W.O. Young's CA/BLO finish on it with great success.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc


 

I will give it a try. Thank you for the You Tube link. A lot of my customer want to see how I make pens. Thinking about making a video even though I'm camera shy! 

Kent


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 8, 2011)

clark77494 said:


> sbwertz said:
> 
> 
> > I've been turning a lot of cedar recently (my son has a downed ceder tree in his yard that has the most amazing lavender color!) I use W.O. Young's CA/BLO finish on it with great success.
> ...



Just aim the video camera at your mandrel. Unless your hands are camera shy, too.


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## renowb (Dec 8, 2011)

"My pens parts came in yesterday that I had ordered a month ago". 

WOW! A month? Who you ordering from?


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## JimB (Dec 8, 2011)

For cedar I also switched from CA to poly because the ca wasn't getting a good shine. No problem with the Poly other than each coat takes longer to cure. I let each coat sit for 24 hours before the next coat.


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## clark77494 (Dec 9, 2011)

renowb said:


> "My pens parts came in yesterday that I had ordered a month ago".
> 
> WOW! A month? Who you ordering from?



It was Rockler the Houston location. They over nighted them after I threatened to do a Charge Back on the Credit Card. There inventory has gone down hill ever since they fired one of the store managers. I'm thinking about changing to Pen State Industries if I can get the part number for Cigar Pens through them. Probably just as well. I live 30 miles from Rockler and it will be easier just to order it online.

Kent


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## nava1uni (Dec 11, 2011)

You shouldn't use cotton with CA since the fiber causes CA to set more quickly.  No offense, but I think that you are using too many things to get a finish.  Why are you using all of these things?  The EEE will take off the carnuba wax(brown wax bar); If you want a quick finish then turn several pens and then spray then with gloss lacquer and let them set overnight and then apply another coat.  CA finish is easy and quick and doesn't take more then a few coats, not 20.  Just my opinion, but I turn Cedar and get a nice finish with either Wipe on Poly, spray lacquer and/or CA which ever I want at the time.


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## nativewooder (Dec 11, 2011)

If your cedar is like my cedar, aromatic or eastern red cedar, it is very soft and porous.  On my last couple of projects I used thinned brushing lacquer and put on very heavy coats until it was soaked.  After the wood dried, the pores were sealed and I could put any finish on it I wanted.  The amount of shine depended on how much I sanded and polished it.


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## SDB777 (Dec 11, 2011)

Eastern Red Cedar.....where to start?

The wood has a LOT of resin in it, which causes some gassing....cloudy finishes.  I prefer to use the method that Les in Reed Deer uses...poly.  But if time is against you, this method isn't the best option as it'll take longer to cure and coat.


When I am in a 'rush'...
Turn, sand to 400, BLO(letting it soak in pretty good), EEE, then 4 coats thin CA and 4 coat meduim CA, wet MM to 12k



Scott (I do a LOT of ERC) B


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## clark77494 (Dec 11, 2011)

*Using Poly*



JimB said:


> For cedar I also switched from CA to poly because the ca wasn't getting a good shine. No problem with the Poly other than each coat takes longer to cure. I let each coat sit for 24 hours before the next coat.



I'm going to try the poly over the weekend. It works for the furniture I build. (I use red oak for furniture) How do you apply it? Will a cotton rag do?

Kent


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## clark77494 (Dec 11, 2011)

nava1uni said:


> You shouldn't use cotton with CA since the fiber causes CA to set more quickly.  No offense, but I think that you are using too many things to get a finish.  Why are you using all of these things?  The EEE will take off the carnuba wax(brown wax bar); If you want a quick finish then turn several pens and then spray then with gloss lacquer and let them set overnight and then apply another coat.  CA finish is easy and quick and doesn't take more then a few coats, not 20.  Just my opinion, but I turn Cedar and get a nice finish with either Wipe on Poly, spray lacquer and/or CA which ever I want at the time.



Leave it to sales people to lead you in the wrong direction! This is what they said to purchase in the pen turing class. I will try the Poly this evening. Can I use a cotton rag to apply it?

Kent


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