# Boiled linsead oil



## phillywood (Feb 11, 2011)

Well, I keep reading that many here on IAP apply BLO to their pens and under the CA finish and other finishes. I was wondering if any one here can help me with the knowledge that how did BLO got into penturning and when is it necessary to apply it and why should be applied? I tied in good faith to search this in the library and there is no article about it, and figured the if I search for BLO, well then I'd get 1000 of the threads with that wording that won't answer my qsn.. So, although it has been said in many threads that BLO was applied, I would like to learn that what other things you can use the BLO on.
Any help or comment or even a link to an article is appreciated.


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## DozerMite (Feb 11, 2011)

I don't apply BLO to the pen. I don't see any advantage to doing that and it can cause problems with the CA.
All I can see it benefits is it lubricates the applicator and keeps it from sticking to the finish. And any oil works. I use a VERY small drop of BLO on my applicator sometimes. If you apply the CA quickly and don't keep the applicator in contact with the pen, you shouldn't need any BLO at all.
That is my preferred method. This is just my experience and yours may be different.


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## KenV (Feb 11, 2011)

Don Ward posted an answer to your question several weeks back (Its_Virgil).

Don cited an organic chemist who was active on the Yahoo Penturning Group -- the CA and the linseed oils for a urethane resin on the surface of the wood.   It also tends to allow a more smooth application.

I use it because the long term durability of the finish seems better.  CA becomes brittle with time (months and years) and brittle is not the greatest property with a finish.  

One of the negatives is there tends to be a slight amber color to the finish.


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## Lee K (Feb 11, 2011)

and to answer the other part of the question ... BLO brings out / deepens the grain in certain woods.  I like what it does to Cherry and Walnut for example.

Lighter woods such as maple, still provides a 'rich' look but not as much of a difference sometimes.


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## randywa (Feb 11, 2011)

Does it act like tung oil only dry 2 weeks faster?


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## keithlong (Feb 11, 2011)

I apply the first coat, just blo alone and coat the bushings with it, then when you apply the ca, it wont stick to the bushings.


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## razor524 (Feb 11, 2011)

I had constant trouble with the CA finish until I started using Mr. Young's method of CA and BLO, then it worked great.  I am a believer in BLO use.


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## phillywood (Feb 11, 2011)

I appreciate everyone's input on this, however some of the qsn.s above are still unanswered. for example, how did it get into the penturning art and do apply it in between or after your done with your CA? Is it something that was inherited into this art because most turners are doing it or someone really came up with this method and then others followed?
I think I am trying to find out like Morse invented the Morse taper and all the lathe manufacturers followed his lead and incorporated that into their design. So, how did the application of the BLO was incorporated into this art?


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## lorbay (Feb 11, 2011)

*Blo*



phillywood said:


> I appreciate everyone's input on this, however some of the qsn.s above are still unanswered. for example, how did it get into the penturning art and do apply it in between or after your done with your CA? Is it something that was inherited into this art because most turners are doing it or someone really came up with this method and then others followed?
> I think I am trying to find out like Morse invented the Morse taper and all the lathe manufacturers followed his lead and incorporated that into their design. So, how did the application of the BLO was incorporated into this art?


 
Phil see if this sheds some light on it.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=319
Lin.


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## Craftdiggity (Feb 12, 2011)

BLO has been a part of wood working for decades, so the use of BLO would have been in penturning from the beginning.  It is generally used to "pop" the grain after sanding and prior to applying the finish.  It is also part of some finish recipes, along with wax.  As for the reason it is used for CA finishes, I  would guess that it is because it delays the drying of the CA for a bit so that you can apply pressure and not have it stick to the paper towel.  Doing this gives you a smoother finish in my experience cutting down on the sanding needed in between coats.  The CA finish is only used in the smaller projects as far as I know so I would be surprised if it was someone other than a penturner that came up with the idea.


C


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## Craftdiggity (Feb 12, 2011)

BLO has been a part of wood working for decades, so the use of BLO would have been in penturning from the beginning.  It is generally used to "pop" the grain after sanding and prior to applying the finish.  It is also part of some finish recipes, along with wax.  As for the reason it is used for CA finishes, I  would guess that it is because it delays the drying of the CA for a bit so that you can apply pressure and not have it stick to the paper towel.  Doing this gives you a smoother finish in my experience cutting down on the sanding needed in between coats.  The CA finish is only used in the smaller projects as far as I know so I would be surprised if it was someone other than a penturner that came up with the idea.


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## monophoto (Feb 12, 2011)

Craftdiggity said:


> BLO has been a part of wood working for decadesC



Actually, I think it would be more correct to say that BLO has been part of 'wood finishing' for centuries.  Wood turning is simply one small niche within the overall field of woodworking. BLO soaks into the wood, enhances the grain, and when rubbed, the heat causes it to polymerize into a hard finish.

To me, the question is not when and why on BLO, but rather when and how did CA become recognized as a legitimate wood finish?

As to the how of BLO/CA - 'you pays your money and takes your choice".  There are dozens (hundreds?) of videos and pdf tutorials on the web, each of which claims to describe the one true and proven way of finishing pens.  Some proponents of these methods sound almost religious in their assertion that there is only one way to finish pens.  You have the BLO followed by CA school, the CA+ BLO school, the CA followed by BLO school, the absolutely no BLO school, the absolutely no CA school, the friction finish school, the oil and wax school, the WOP school, the wheypoly school, the wipe school, the dip school, and just about every other combination you can imagine.


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## Chasper (Feb 12, 2011)

phillywood said:


> *apply it in between or after your done with your CA?*



My method is to apply BLO *with* CA.  I put a drop of BLO on a rolled up paper towel and rub it across the blank with the lathe turning at full speed, without breaking contact between the paper towel and the blank I then immediately drizzle thin CA on the turning and continue moving the paper towel across the turning over and over with increasing pressure.  If it works as usual, after 9-10 coats I've built up a deep layer of CA and the finish is bright and shiny.


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## Justin_F (Feb 21, 2011)

Hey Phillywood, Ive tried all sorts of CA finishes and they are great if you want a plasticy or very high gloss finish (and there's nothing wrong with that!). However I find that the CA/BLO method leaves the pen with a soft, lustrous finish that, as stated above, is more hardly and not brittle at all.  I use paper towel, coat the pen (spinning) with a dollop of BLO then run the CA onto the towel under the pen with a gentle friction. Then a new piece of towel for each of 5 or 6 following coats with progressively less BLO (until you are down to a tiny drop for the last). I use this finish almost exclusively now, its fast and durable and really does make the timber the champion in the pen. I'm happy to share more of you wish but I can't answer why or how it started!
Hope this helps..


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