# The "Other" Snake Skin - CRACKED!!!!!



## Fangar (Jul 15, 2005)

I held my breath the whole time.  It came out nice in the end.  No major issues actually.  Pheewww.

It is a Snakewood Baron, BLO / CA finish, with a Platinum Kit.

I have a feeling that when I get to work today and show it to one of my repeat customers, it will be gone.  Good thing I got a photo or two first.










Thanks for looking,

Fangar


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## Rifleman1776 (Jul 15, 2005)

Outstanding. Be sure to charge plenty.


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## Ligget (Jul 15, 2005)

That is probably the best lookin pen I have ever seen!![]


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## gpadgham (Jul 15, 2005)

Nice Pen... who is your supplier for snakewood?  I have a hard time finding the stuff...


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## Czarcastic (Jul 15, 2005)

WOW is that pretty!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




What a phenomenal looking pen and fabulous finish!!!

Truly a masterpiece.


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## mrcook4570 (Jul 15, 2005)

That is sharp!


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## Scott (Jul 15, 2005)

Fangar!

That is a truly beautiful pen!  Excellent work!

Scott.


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## Checked (Jul 15, 2005)

Just as good as it gets
Rex


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## Fangar (Jul 15, 2005)

Thanks guys!  I purchased the blank from BB at arizona silhouette.  I think it was about 4.50 or so.  Very small though.  Just at 5/8".  So drilling for the Baron is like a project in nuclear calibration (Ok I made that up).  He sells some nice stock.  He does not mess around with sending you anything other than the best in my experience.  

The price is set high!  []

I know she will... "Bite".  

Cheers,

James

EDIT:

I just checked back.  He sells 3/4" for 4.95.  DOH!

James


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## alamocdc (Jul 15, 2005)

I agree with Czar, James! WOW!!! [^][]


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## gpadgham (Jul 15, 2005)

Hrmmm, I get stuff from BB regularly... can't say I've noticed the Snakewood before... guess I'll be adding that to my BB order list... Unfortunately, that list usually grows faster than I can make it shrink... heh


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## its_virgil (Jul 15, 2005)

Beautiful pen. Beautiful finish. Excellent job overall. I love snakewood but....I hope it doesn't crack. I love ebony, the olive wood from Israel, and snakewood, but I'm tired of getting returns that have cracked. Hope you have better luck with the snakewood than I have.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## gpadgham (Jul 15, 2005)

I also understand Snakewood can crack pretty readily.  Anyone know how soon that happens after turning or finishing?  I'd make some, but wonder how long I should keep them in stock to ensure they are stable enough to sell / give away.


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## WoodChucker (Jul 15, 2005)

That's a beautiful pen for sure! I love the colors,is that the way it came or did you dye it? All the other ones I've seen have been brown. I like them too,but this one is really different, great job!


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## JimGo (Jul 15, 2005)

James, that is beautiful!  Great job all around - shape, finish, and photo!

Gerrit, from what I understand, it isn't necessarily a time-based issue; it is typically environmental.


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## tinker (Jul 15, 2005)

Wow, that is what I mean by man made materials not matching natural wood for appeal. That is a beautiful pen. Baron pens are definitely on my list to do now.


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## swm6500 (Jul 15, 2005)

James, that is an awesome looking pen. Surely nothing that beautiful would decide to crack now.


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## Tom McMillan (Jul 15, 2005)

Nice work---that's a beauty!!![]


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## Gary Max (Jul 15, 2005)

Dang----that pen would be hard to part with---is one of the best I have seen posted---perfect.


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## PenWorks (Jul 15, 2005)

Great pen James, one of my favorite woods !


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## GregD (Jul 15, 2005)

Nice pen! Awsome finish! Did I say nice pen? Awsome finish!


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## Fleabit (Jul 15, 2005)

Some outstanding looking wood.  The workmanship is pretty darn good too[]


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## dubdrvrkev (Jul 15, 2005)

WOW, very impressive. Outstanding F&F, very nice craftsmanship!


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## DCBluesman (Jul 15, 2005)

Beautiful pen, James.  I wish you better luck than I have had with snakewood.  The last of the pens I made from snakewood just developed a crack after nearly eight months of use.  From now on I only make snakewood upon customer request and I do not warranty nor guarantee them against cracking.  Same thing with Gaboon ebony.


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## mikes pens (Jul 15, 2005)

How come my photos never turn out that nice?  Great pen, great picture.


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## arjudy (Jul 15, 2005)

Really awesome pen and the finish is even better. WOW!


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## Deere41h (Jul 15, 2005)

WOW!!!That is really beautiful.  Nice job.   Thanks for sharing it with us.  Makes me want to try snakewood even with it's reputation.


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## woodscavenger (Jul 15, 2005)

That is stunning.


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## BigRob777 (Jul 16, 2005)

Wow,
No wonder snakewood is so expensive.  That is a tremendous job and the finish looks perfect.  I hope the rock didn't scratch it.  I like everything about it.  
I have a half blank of the material that I'm saving until I have a good number of pens under my belt.


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## Fangar (Jul 16, 2005)

Thanks to all very much.  I got some serious interest today when I showed the pen around.  So much so that I decided to keep it for myself [].  I figure it will intrique a lot of interest for me that way.  Also, with the questions of cracking raised, it won't matter to me.  I'll watch and see.  I plan on getting a few more of the blanks though, just for the vaults.

James


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## Old Griz (Jul 16, 2005)

Great looking pen James... 
now you made me go and do it.. was placing an order with Bill anyway, so added 2 snakewood 3/4" blanks to it...


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## dougle40 (Jul 16, 2005)

Fantastic looking pen .


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## Fangar (Jul 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Old Griz_
> <br />Great looking pen James...
> now you made me go and do it.. was placing an order with Bill anyway, so added 2 snakewood 3/4" blanks to it...



Great!  It has to be done.  I end up ordering from Bill at least once a month, usually twice.  Been busy.

2 days and no cracks.... Gulp.

James


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## Old Griz (Jul 16, 2005)

Keep me informed James... I ain't building mine until I find out if yours cracked.. [}][}]


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## Jim in Oakville (Jul 17, 2005)

Great Pen and wonderful photograph!


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## dancrafted (Jul 18, 2005)

WOW, NICE PEN.


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## Rifleman1776 (Jul 18, 2005)

The responses, including mine, say it all. Beautiful. This pen has drawn a lot of attention. The expressions of admiration support my philosophy that the beauty is all in the wood. [and some other natural products] The craftsmanship brings that beauty out. Some here do it better than the rest of us. Your selection of wood and craftsmanship epitomize what we are striving for.


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## MDWine (Jul 18, 2005)

I guess you don't need one more weighing in, especially in light of my lack of experience... but I gotta say one thing...

WOW!

That sure is a pretty pen... in all respects!  I sure hope it doesn't ... you know... c######   (I ain't gonna say it!)

I sure would like to tackle that kind of wood some time.

Very nice job all 'round!


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## ed4copies (Jul 18, 2005)

Griz,

Have you turned snakewood successfully?  Have you considered having it stabilized?  

I only turned one pen, years ago before stabilizing had entered penmaking, when it cracked I was really crushed-haven't turned it since.  BUT, would like to make a pen that looks like that if it were stabilized.


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## Old Griz (Jul 18, 2005)

Ed, have never turned snakewood... and I heard somewhere it does not take stabilization... I think if it did BillB would offer it that way... I may have to give him a call and ask about it...


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## ed4copies (Jul 18, 2005)

Griz,

As you have noted, snakewood is a beautiful pen.  

My recollection was it was tricky to turn-you will have NO problem with your skew skills, but at that time, I had a heck of a time-but ultimately got the second blank to work (paid $10 each, then).  When it cracked (several weeks later), I was really crushed-my masterpiece destroyed by nature-dirty pool.

Hope you find a good answer-I would really like to have a snakewood pen of my own, it is gorgeous and gets LOTS of comments!! 

Best of luck!!!


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## Fangar (Jul 18, 2005)

Well boys and girls... It CRACKED!

[]

I knew it would.  Too many people talking about it not to.  [] Right on the bottom portion of the cap near the center band.  Since I decided to keep it for myself, I am not too worried about it.  I think that when I get some time, I will strip the parts off of the cap and fix it.  I should be able to make it invisible.  

Looking at the pen closely, there is only the one crack.  Snakewood though when looked at extremely close has a very whispy grain.  Loose in some spots. Imagine dry bambo, or celery. I noticed when I was turning it that it was very similiar to Ebony as far as the heat characteristics causing fine fissures.  Especially when sanding the blank flush to the tubes.  More open grain than ebony though.

Anyway, I will let you all know how the repair and refinish goes.  I have too many other pens to turn right now to mess with it for a few days.  

If nothing else, I got a great front page photo for my website out of it...Since I took the photo before it cracked [].

Cheers,

Fangar


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## gpadgham (Jul 18, 2005)

Bummer to hear about that!  At least it doesn't sound like it will be too much of a pain to fix though.  Perhaps its a good thing you can't get to it right away, just in case it decides to "open up" a little more, it will be less likely to do so in the future, after you fix it.


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## mikes pens (Jul 18, 2005)

I made a snakewood pen a year ago and still haven't had it crack.  Maybe I was lucky.  One thing I did was drill the hole out slowly and also added a little bit of water to the hole to keep the drill bit cool.  I also took breaks while drilling to let the drill bit cool down.  Other than that, I turned it at a low speed and it still exists in good shape.  

Mike


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## wdcav1952 (Jul 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ed4copies_
> <br />Griz,
> 
> Have you turned snakewood successfully?  Have you considered having it stabilized?
> ...



Ed,
Not to hijack your question to Griz, but Rich K. on the Yahoo forum wrote a post on his attempts to have snakewood stabilized.  His results were unsuccessful as I remember.  Perhaps Rich will see this thread and comment.


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## Old Griz (Jul 18, 2005)

I am thinking (after a conversation with Tony) that after drilling it slow and cool and turning softly, I may just relieve the tubes a bit so that the parts do not press fit in place, but have a nice slide fit that needs a drop of CA to lock in place... 
I figure that by not press fitting the parts I will eliminate any excessive pressure on the inside of the blank that might cause it to crack... 
Talking to Tony can be a good thing...


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## ed4copies (Jul 18, 2005)

Please DO hijack my question-I would love to find a way to make snakeskin survive.  ANY experience is gratefully accepted.


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## cigarman (Jul 18, 2005)

There were some post on yahoo penturners group maybe a year and a half ago about snakewood and someone said they boil it first and that helps. Tried a search there but no luck.


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## JimGo (Jul 18, 2005)

Tom, please keep us informed of your progress!  

James, I'm sorry to hear about the crack - if it will make you feel any better, you can send the pen to me and I'll take GOOD care of it 'till you have time to fix the crack.  I'll E-mail you my address.


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## timdaleiden (Jul 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ed4copies_
> <br />Please DO hijack my question-I would love to find a way to make snakeskin survive.  ANY experience is gratefully accepted.



 I don't know if it has been suggested before, but if the wood could be turned down below the bushings, couldn't it then be cast in clear PR, just like the snake skin pens? [?][?]


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## swm6500 (Jul 18, 2005)

Darn James. I was really hoping that it would not crack on you. Good luck on repairing.


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## atvrules1 (Jul 18, 2005)

Beautiful pen, finish hits the spot.


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## Old Griz (Jul 19, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> [br I don't know if it has been suggested before, but if the wood could be turned down below the bushings, couldn't it then be cast in clear PR, just like the snake skin pens? [?][?]



IMHO, that would just eliminate the reason for making the pen out of the wood in the first place...


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## woodscavenger (Jul 19, 2005)

I have one that I want to tackle as well.  Has anyone drilled, let set for a few weeks, tubed and glued, set for a few weeks, turned to near final dimensions, let set for a few weeks then finish off?  Would that help?

I do think the idea of reaming out the tubes a little before press fitting might be a great idea based on some cracks I created on a couple of olypmia kits recently.


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## PenWorks (Jul 19, 2005)

Here is  El Grande Streamline I did in snakewood. It has been around for over a year and has not cracked. It is tubless on the body and a tube in the cap. I think leaving as much meat on the pen helps, I also think leaving a tube out may help. That is just speculation, as my tubeless ones have not cracked. Also, they have not left the office and under the same temp all day.  I still think it is just a crap shoot using this wood. That being said, a split snakewood pen is sure alot prettier than many other wood pens that have no cracks. []
I think the cracking should not deter someone from trying to make at least one snakewood pen. Then you can form your own opinion about this gorgous unfriendly wood. 






<br />


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## mikes pens (Jul 19, 2005)

Okay Anthony, you said in your post to leave "as much meat on the pen helps."  I just put one of my snakewood blanks in meat.  How long should I leave the snakewood in the meat?  Does it matter the kind of meat?  I used a nice, juicey filet mignon.[]
Mike


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## PenWorks (Jul 19, 2005)

MMMMmmmmm Stuffed Snake, sounds like a delicacy []


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## woodscavenger (Jul 19, 2005)

Snake meat is good.  I've had rattler before when my uncle used to take me out to the southern Idaho lava flows to hunt them.

Anthony, with as many issues snakewood seems to have with cracking it seems like a risky pen to do tubeless.  How do you accomplish yours?  Do you use a tap set and cut the threads in the wood?  If so, where did you get the tap or is it a standard size?


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## Rudy Vey (Jul 19, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wdcav1952_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



I had sent some Snakewood to Steve White of River Ridge Products. Steve had let me know although the wood went through the whole process he did not see any gain in weight, i.e. there is no resin that permeated into the wood. Ergo, Snakewood cannot be stabilized. The three pens I made from it all cracked within weeks.


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## PenWorks (Jul 19, 2005)

Shane, no thread cutting, I glue the nib coupler into the front of the pen instead of press fitting into a tube.


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## ctEaglesc (Jul 19, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Old Griz_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



Griz, what am I missing?
Tim's suggestion makes perfect sense.
Especialy since you turn so many stabilized pens from BB.
Granted it would not be the same as a stabilized blank but it would be more like wood than a wood blank impregnated with plastic and dye.
(In my never humble but may be missing something opinion)


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## timdaleiden (Jul 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cteaglesc_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



 Or if you use another plastic...like CA glue???

 Sometimes after following some of these threads, I just walk away scratching my head. It is OK to encase wood in CA plastic, polyurethane, lacquers, but not okay to have the wood stabilized professionally, and whatever you do...don't encase wood in PR plastic...I just don't get where some of these opinions come from. It is just odd the way some people rationalize their behaviors and beliefs.  If any wood is not properly sealed in some way, it will eventually crack. I thought I made a valid suggestion...oh well, back to the drawing board.


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## Fangar (Jul 20, 2005)

Not sure if you can tell from the photos, but my pen has quite a nice thick CA finish.  The crack is all the way through the CA and into the wood.  Only on the cap, and now in two places.  I will likely still try the repair.  If I fail, then I will keep the body in snakewood as it has yet to crack and add another contrasting wood for the top.  I feel a "Frakenpen" coming on!

Good ideas added by all.  Thanks

James


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## ctEaglesc (Jul 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



From what I have read,it is next to impossible to commercially stabilize snakewood.Your suggestion Tim unless I misunderstood your post was to turn the pen completely and under-size it at or near the bushings.Cast both halves in resin,This would not be the same as wrapping a veneer around a tube and then casting in resin.
I was talking to Lou last night and mentioned this idea before I read your post.
If I read your post correctly your suggestion is to use the resin as a finish and not the main body of the pen.
I am in agreement with you on this one.
I use a lot of CA on my pens, especially on multiple glue ups.U have even considered having my lams stabilized, but I use a mixture of different adhesives on each pen.Yellow glue serves a purpose but so does CA.
One thing I have noticed in CA finished(sealed) pens is there is not the same "wood" feel.
That is not good or bad,in todays world with man made materials so prevalent many are accustomed to that feeling.There are those that want a wood pen to feel like a wood pen with a warmer feeling.
In the case of the snakewood pen if the appearance is relished and one possible remedy to save it from cracking is to cast it in resin then I am with you.I may even try it on some other things I am contemplating.I would cast a finished pen in resin to aid in finishing to get an appearance I want and live with the feel.
It is like someone who likes the look of a tiles floor but doesn't want cold feet.
Vinyl is an alternative much like your suggestion to cast in resin to prohibit the cracking of the wood.


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## Old Griz (Jul 20, 2005)

Actually Eagle, I don't turn that many stabilized blanks for pens... I do use stabilized stopper blanks a lot... virtually all my blanks are natural wood..the crew from Grizfest can attest to that ... I had a few professionally done, but they absolutley needed it... 
Virtually every freebie I got from BillB was desert ironwood...


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## Old Griz (Jul 20, 2005)

> Sometimes after following some of these threads, I just walk away scratching my head. It is OK to encase wood in CA plastic, polyurethane, lacquers, but not okay to have the wood stabilized professionally, and whatever you do...don't encase wood in PR plastic...I just don't get where some of these opinions come from. It is just odd the way some people rationalize their behaviors and beliefs. If any wood is not properly sealed in some way, it will eventually crack. I thought I made a valid suggestion...oh well, back to the drawing board.


First of all I said that was <b>my opinion</b> as far as casting the blank in PR.  
<b>I did not say you were wrong.. </b>
I just stated my opinion as you stated your... I rationalize my behaivior and beliefs because it was <b>MY OPINION</b>, no where did I state that you did not a right to your opinion or optional way of doing that type of wood.  I never said you did not have a valid option... but from what I am reading here only your opinions count... look at my thread again it starts <b><b>IMHO</b>.. IN MY HUMBLE OPINION</b>...


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## timdaleiden (Jul 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Old Griz_
> First of all I said that was <b>my opinion</b> as far as casting the blank in PR.
> <b>I did not say you were wrong.. </b>
> I just stated my opinion as you stated your... I rationalize my behaivior and beliefs because it was <b>MY OPINION</b>, no where did I state that you did not a right to your opinion or optional way of doing that type of wood.  I never said you did not have a valid option... but from what I am reading here only your opinions count... look at my thread again it starts <b><b>IMHO</b>.. IN MY HUMBLE OPINION</b>...



 I wasn't trying to start a fight. I guess some of these subtle distinctions seem odd to me. We all finish our pens with a "thin to thick" layer of plastic. Even friction polish leaves a thin layer of Shellac, or Lacquer. That means they have a plastic material over the wood. The only nonplastic finishes are waxes, and they must be rewaxed frequently, or if handled enough, skin oils replace the waxes. Again, I wasn't trying to start a fight; I just don't understand where some of these objections come from, including the ones about professionally stabilized wood.


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## ctEaglesc (Jul 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



I too am not trying to start a "fight" but I will note that when I have turned a commercially stabilized" "wood" that which comes off the blank has the properies and smell of plastic rather than wood.Smell and "shavings"
There are somethings I turn that cannot be turned unless they are stabilized in some way.Cloth, newspapers, string, rope etc.
These items were not meant to be "turned" in their natural state.That is what makes them unique, or to use another wphrase an attempt to make a "spectaular pen"You know something diffferent and innovative"?
Another thing I have noted is a stabilized item does not have the feel of natural wood in my opinion.(not humble and didn't intend it to be)Once a pen is finished in CA is also has that property and it is entirely different than a pen finished with lacquer or shelac,


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## ed4copies (Jul 20, 2005)

Weighing in, in a slightly different vein.

My first corncobs were still "textured" after applying several coats of CA.  It was suggested on this forum, I believe, that they be "smooth" to the touch, i. e. ADD more CA.  That did give a preferable tactile sensation to the pen-but it did NOT feel like a corncob.

I certainly agree that the beauty of snakeskin (wood) is worth some compromises.  If I have to choose between cracking and fortifying with plastic, I would choose the latter.  One excellent justification being, the customer who buys the pen knows what he is getting when I sell it to him.  He will not be disappointed by the condition of the pen changing (cracking).  So, if it is stabilized and does not feel like wood-SO BE IT.

Actually, Griz, you put great time and effort into making your pens differ from "natural" wood.  They have a customer-pleasing sheen and smoothness that is truly "unnatural", but very desirable.  We all marvel at your numerous techniques and their results.  Approach this issue with an open-mind and I believe you may decide there is some merit to trying the PR approach.  I would, however, recommend trying it on a cheap blank of oak first. (Disappointment comes in many sizes, lets start with SMALL if it doesn't work).

Come September, if no one has tried it, Dawn & I will.  If it works, I'll be selling some of the most beautiful pens available anywhere.  And, if I know it won't crack, we are once again approaching that illusive $200 pen.

NO OFFENSE MEANT TO ANYONE, HOPE THIS IS WORDED WELL ENOUGH TO REFLECT MY RESPECT FOR EACH OF YOU!!!


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## Old Griz (Jul 20, 2005)

Ed, thanks for the kind words.... 
I tend to agree that the customer wants the pen to have a high gloss glassy look that is definately not a natural woody feel or look .. and since we need to please the customer that is what we do... and your right, I do take a good amount of time on my finish to accomplish exactly that... 
My personal pens have a more natural look, not as deep a finish, but still smooth and glossy... 

As I think about encasing the snakewood in a PR shell, I do see one problem that may or may not occur... you will need to turn the blank down past the bushing to be able to get enough PR on the blank to seal it.. now you will also need to have sanded the snakewood to get a real smooth finish before putting in PR otherwise the sanding marks will be exagerated by the magnifying effect of the PR... 
Here comes the rub... since there is not a whole lot of meat left on the blank in a Jr Gent/Baron style pen, you may be getting to a point where cracking is a whole lot more likely to happen because of the thinness of the blank at that point... Now I am not saying this technique will not work and I would love to see if someone can get it too work... in fact the more I think about it, the more I see the merit in the concept, especially since the amount of PR would be not much thicker than a heavy CA finish... 
I don't do any casting and doubt I will in the near future... I really look forward to seeing the results of your experiments Ed, but instead of something like oak, I think you might want to experiment on a wood known to crack over time.. all you would need to do is one tube and just let it lay around...


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## ed4copies (Jul 20, 2005)

Thanks Griz,
I had considered the "thinness" and will work diligently with a micrometer before this experiment is attempted.

This is, however, consistent with some other things we want to try with PR casting, so it should be fun.

Good point about the wood known to crack.  Just happened to be turning bottle stoppers (thanks, Griz, Dawn bought a bunch of mechanisms for me to turn after seeing your postings,GRRRRrrrrrr!  They didn't sell when I tried before, but........GRRRRrrrrr) out of ebony, so the stick is out and I can start the process with that.


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## Old Griz (Jul 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ed4copies_
> <br />Just happened to be turning bottle stoppers (thanks, Griz, Dawn bought a bunch of mechanisms for me to turn after seeing your postings,GRRRRrrrrrr!  They didn't sell when I tried before, but........GRRRRrrrrr) out of ebony, so the stick is out and I can start the process with that.



And your problem here is... [}][)]
Hey have fun with them and try making some cabochons from left over pen material.. wood, acrylic, whatever gives a nice contrast...


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## ed4copies (Jul 20, 2005)

Griz,

That's the glass connection.  There will be "something" on top, as soon as the kiln is finished.  (The suspense killing you?????[}][}][}]maybe not!)


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## Scottydont (Jul 20, 2005)

I would haver a hard time selling that one. (OK, maybe not for over $125 bucks[]) VERY nice!


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## Fangar (Jul 20, 2005)

I picked up a new set of punches today and got the Baron apart without further damage.  I put the snakewood cap back on the lathe.  I think it is going to be more trouble than it is worth.  There are cracks devoloping everywhere on the cap.  Not on the body though.  I think I will make the cap out fo a contrasting wood.  Not sure what yet. 

James


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## ed4copies (Jul 20, 2005)

How bout something stable, like ebony?????


[][][]


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## Fangar (Jul 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ed4copies_
> <br />How bout something stable, like ebony?????
> 
> 
> [][][]



Great Idea!

I was thinking either that or eggshell?

James


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## Dario (Jul 22, 2005)

Fangar,

This is undoubtedly one of the best pen I've seen.  My wife and I feel so sorry that it cracked. [V]

Thanks to you...my wife is now asking me to make her one made of highly figured snakewood.  I am hunting now on eBay []


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## Old Griz (Jul 22, 2005)

Dario, BillB has some gorgeous snakewood for $4.95 each... I just got 2 of them... reall sweet looking...


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## Fangar (Jul 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Dario_
> <br />Fangar,
> 
> This is undoubtedly one of the best pen I've seen.  My wife and I feel so sorry that it cracked. [V]
> ...



Dario,

Thanks.  I would highly recommend Arizona Silhouette too.  Really awesome blanks.

James


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## Woodnknots (Jul 24, 2005)

Just a word of caution, I have turned snakewood that developed cracks several days after the pen was finished.  that being said, you might want to wait a day or two before you sell it.  But besides that, that's a great looking pen!!  I need to get me a few of those baron kits.


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## Old Griz (Jul 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by daveturns05_
> <br />Just a word of caution, I have turned snakewood that developed cracks several days after the pen was finished.  that being said, you might want to wait a day or two before you sell it.  But besides that, that's a great looking pen!!  I need to get me a few of those baron kits.



Dave, basically that is what this thread is all about... the fact that he made it and then it cracked and we all all trying to come up with ways around it...


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## woodscavenger (Jul 24, 2005)

So far I see a lot of talking but no good solutions.  Has anyone seen any good tips on the other site?


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## jbyrd24 (Jul 24, 2005)

I don't know if this would work but it has for me with ebony.
Drill the holes for the tubes slightly oversized, then deburr the
ends of the tubes fairly heavily to get a loose fit when putting the
pen together. This sounds far to simple to work, but who knows.
I've also ordered a couple snakewood blanks from BB.[]


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## elody21 (Jul 26, 2005)

Any chance of getting a photo of the revised pen, after the crack?


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