# how would you use this,i think i'm doing it wrong



## Pen&FishingCT (Nov 13, 2008)

i finished the pen,micromesh,boiled L/O then CA glue,i put the first coat of this, but after i buff it,the finish its not even,i've done it in several speeds and the same results.. the wood takes a good amount of wax but some parts doesn't. so its pretty much like if the pen is peeling off.
what am i doing wrong? who got a better way to use it.ideas please.:crying:


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## ldb2000 (Nov 13, 2008)

The ren wax goes on after your CA finish is done , not as a part of the process .
It protects your CA finish.


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## leehljp (Nov 13, 2008)

What ldb2000 said. RE-sand then CA, CA/BLO and sand ridges out. MM to 12000 and then wax.

I think you are not putting enough CA on it. CA build up takes at least 5 coats of thin, but for beginners, I would say 7 or 8. 
You said that it was rough, you are not sanding enough. CA often builds up rough and you just have to sand it down. Most of the time you sand through the CA in spots. So you have to apply more CA and more layers. 

Good finish on a pen is not like one or two coats of paint on a wall. Build it up, sand it smooth. Build it up so that when you sand it down, you are not sanding through the CA back to the wood.

When you stated that it looks like some of the wax took and some didn't, this is fairly indicative of CA being too thin and you are sanding through. IF it is very shiny, that usually means CA is there, If it is dull, that means the CA has been sanded off in that spot.


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## rherrell (Nov 13, 2008)

I put Ren wax on right after I assemble the pen. I dip my finger in the can and apply it, with my finger, to the whole pen, metal parts included. I immediately buff by hand with a soft cloth. I have the big can and have made about 300 pens using it and it's still half full. A great bargain if you ask me.


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## dntrost (Nov 13, 2008)

Exactly what rick said is how the insructions read.  I just put it on on the lathe (after finish is dry) Two coats and I am very happy with results, many will say it is not worth it.  But as rick points out per pen price is dirt cheap....


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## Pen&FishingCT (Nov 13, 2008)

leehljp said:


> What ldb2000 said. RE-sand then CA, CA/BLO and sand ridges out. MM to 12000 and then wax.
> 
> I think you are not putting enough CA on it. CA build up takes at least 5 coats of thin, but for beginners, I would say 7 or 8.
> You said that it was rough, you are not sanding enough. CA often builds up rough and you just have to sand it down. Most of the time you sand through the CA in spots. So you have to apply more CA and more layers.
> ...


 do i have to go thru the whole micromesh process after i put the ca glue on it. what sanding should i use.
but you're absolutely right,i'm not using enough ca on the pen. 5 coats of CA maybe 7.i'll try that.
thank you very much guys


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## leehljp (Nov 13, 2008)

surfflyfish4stripers said:


> do i have to go thru the whole micromesh process after i put the ca glue on it. what sanding should i use.
> but you're absolutely right,i'm not using enough ca on the pen. 5 coats of CA maybe 7.i'll try that.
> thank you very much guys



Yes. Here is a normal procedure with minor changes for different people who use different methods:

Sand the wood to shape and size up to 600 sandpaper or up to 3200 MM (give or take one grade up or down) Apply a couple of coats of CA and sand smooth with a light touch going through MM starting at 2400 to 4000. Apply two coats of CA and go through the MM all the way to 12000 with 'light' pressure. Apply another couple of coats and go through again. If you have the patience, apply up to 10 to 12 coats until you get proficient and comfortable with CA finishes.

For me personally I use about 4 to 6 coats of medium which is the equivalent of about 10 to 12 coats of thin. (Medium CA takes longer to cure on the pen.) But different people have different methods. However, starting out, most people underestimate the amount of CA needed for a good shiny protective and consistent coat. 

Individual's interpretation of "lightly sanding" varies so much that one person will sand so lightly that ridges are left and the CA is still unsmooth. Another will sand so hard he sands all of the CA off each time and yet swear that he used only a "light touch".


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## randyrls (Nov 13, 2008)

leehljp said:


> Good finish on a pen is not like one or two coats of paint on a wall. Build it up, sand it smooth. Build it up so that when you sand it down, you are not sanding through the CA back to the wood.



Hank;  I have that problem.   When sanding a CA finish, I watch the sanding dust coming off the sandpaper.  White is CA finish, any shade of brown means you have sanded through the CA and need to apply more.  This is easy to do.  I start sanding a CA finish with 600 grit sandpaper backed with a scrap piece of wood.  That way only the ridges and high spots get sanded.


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## Pen&FishingCT (Nov 13, 2008)

leehljp said:


> Yes. Here is a normal procedure with minor changes for different people who use different methods:
> 
> Sand the wood to shape and size up to 600 sandpaper or up to 3200 MM (give or take one grade up or down) Apply a couple of coats of CA and sand smooth with a light touch going through MM starting at 2400 to 4000. Apply two coats of CA and go through the MM all the way to 12000 with 'light' pressure. Apply another couple of coats and go through again. If you have the patience, apply up to 10 to 12 coats until you get proficient and comfortable with CA finishes.
> 
> ...


hey lee: which of the ca should i use best the yellow bottle ca or the green bottle ca. i think the yellow or orage color bottle is the fast drying one.oh man,that means i have to buy a lot of ca now. but its all good.
i'm doing it today.


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## Dagwood (Nov 13, 2008)

Go for the freshest CA you can find.  
Every manufacturer has different colours so stick with either Thin or Medium.  Personally I like thin for a finish.  Think of it as building up in layers, the more layers the more durable the finish will be.  
When you MM, try to consider this step as part of the polishing and don't go too heavy.

CA is one of the most long lasting a quick finishes you can use.

Good Luck and don't give up.


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## rherrell (Nov 13, 2008)

randyrls said:


> Hank; I have that problem. When sanding a CA finish, I watch the sanding dust coming off the sandpaper. White is CA finish, any shade of brown means you have sanded through the CA and need to apply more. This is easy to do. I start sanding a CA finish with 600 grit sandpaper backed with a scrap piece of wood. That way only the ridges and high spots get sanded.


WRONG! Sorry for yelling.:biggrin: Get yourself a light and position it DIRECTLY over the blank, just above your head. Watch the blank and you'll see a shiney line running down the top. Sand until the shiney line disappears and STOP! The shiney line is low spots on the CA so once it disappears you've knocked off all the high spots. When you stop and look at the blank you will still have a few little shiney spots but if they're small you can CA right over them. A little hand sanding will get rid of them if you're REAL picky.:biggrin: After doing a few you'll get the hang of it!:wink::biggrin:
The wood block is OK if all you do are straight profiles but if you have any kind of shape I would lose the wood block. I cut my paper in 1" strips and use the "cradle" method. I stop the lathe and hand sand a little between each coat.


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## MobilMan (Nov 13, 2008)

Dave,  When using Ren. Wax put on thin coats.  Don't use it thick.  A couple of thin is a lot better than one thick.  I usually put one thin coat on while on the mandrel & buff & another after assembly & use the buffer wheel.


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## NewLondon88 (Nov 13, 2008)

MobilMan said:


> Dave,  When using Ren. Wax put on thin coats.  Don't use it thick.  A couple of thin is a lot better than one thick.  I usually put one thin coat on while on the mandrel & buff & another after assembly & use the buffer wheel.



Can you put on successive coats? I thought I read somewhere that when
you put it on, it takes off the previous coats .. maybe I read it wrong.
Or maybe it was a dream.

.. no, wait .. that wasn't me


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## Pen&FishingCT (Nov 15, 2008)

leehljp said:


> Yes. Here is a normal procedure with minor changes for different people who use different methods:
> 
> Sand the wood to shape and size up to 600 sandpaper or up to 3200 MM (give or take one grade up or down) Apply a couple of coats of CA and sand smooth with a light touch going through MM starting at 2400 to 4000. Apply two coats of CA and go through the MM all the way to 12000 with 'light' pressure. Apply another couple of coats and go through again. If you have the patience, apply up to 10 to 12 coats until you get proficient and comfortable with CA finishes.
> 
> ...


 Lee,Thank you very much, i did it the same way here and the finish is unreal, a good member here did it but i didn't remember, i now i recall it,this procedure is the holly grail of basic finish,haha. do it LONDON.FOLLOW IT JUST AS LEE SAYS.:highfive:


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