# Loose clip, spins round and round



## Kevin M (Dec 12, 2005)

I have had a couple of slimline pens that the clips loosen up on and tend to spin. I tried removing the the cap and using a little ca in the tube to hold it but sometimes it will loosen again. These are on pens that are used on a daily basis. When I try to remove the cap the second time to reapply ca it does not want to come out easily and I pulling out what little hair I have left. Anyone have this problem and fiqured out a good solution?


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## rtparso (Dec 12, 2005)

I use a counter sink bit (bur) to get the tube just below the level of the wood. Search for pn 33757 at rockler to see what I am talking about.


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## Randy_ (Dec 13, 2005)

I've not had that problem; but I don't make many slimlines.  Perhaps just a tiny bit of CA on the underside of the shoulder of the finial would help?  I would use a toothpick to apply a very light film, only.  Even one full drop would be way too much and would ooze out when the finial was pressed in.


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## Mogman (Dec 13, 2005)

I have had the same problem and have solved it by doing exactly what Randy suggests above.

Ian


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## TomServo (Dec 13, 2005)

Just remember: LOOSE CLIPS SINK SHIPS! ... sorry, had to, guys..

edit: some actual content

when you try to glue the fitting in, do you sand the tube at all? I've had very good success glueing in loose bits, but just like on the outside of the tubes, the insides need to be fresh clean rough brass.. as always, scotch brite to the rescue


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## Rifleman1776 (Dec 13, 2005)

Try a tiny bit of Locktite red.


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## Randy_ (Dec 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Rifleman_<br />Try a tiny bit of Locktite red.



I had forgotten about Loctite.  I like Frank's idea!!  Loctite has a little bit of flexibility to it and might hold better than CA.  Think I might be tempted to use the Blue rather than the RED; but either should solve the problem.  Do be careful with its use, however, as Loctite reacts with some plastics.  You might mess up a pen if you got it in the wrong place or used it with some of the synthetic blanks.


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## Kevin M (Dec 13, 2005)

Thanks for the replies, I will give each a try and see how they work. This has been a pain and I want a solution that works and can still be taken apart at a latter date if needed.


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## TomServo (Dec 14, 2005)

Come to think of it, loctite makes a product for this - it's called Loctite RC - it's for (very, very) firmly fixing cylindrical objects together - ie a pin in a hole. You will not be able to take the pen apart if you use loctite rc, short of heating it up (hot enough to burn the wood off). So it's probably not the best solution


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## Rifleman1776 (Dec 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by TomServo_
> <br />Come to think of it, loctite makes a product for this - it's called Loctite RC - it's for (very, very) firmly fixing cylindrical objects together - ie a pin in a hole. You will not be able to take the pen apart if you use loctite rc, short of heating it up (hot enough to burn the wood off). So it's probably not the best solution



I reccomended the red because I have used it for decades for gun related issues (loose sights, screws that won't stay tight, etc.). A small red tube has been in my shooting box as a constant. Not saying the blue is undesirable, just have never used it and am not familiar with it's qualities. Red does what I need and has for many years. It keeps well as it dries (hardens) on contact with metal. For the clip issue, a really teensy-tiny drop is all that is needed and only on metal parts.


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## Mudder (Dec 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Rifleman_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...




Just a general note about Loctite since there are now several "reds" and "blues" out. 

Red= High strength
Blue= Medium strength
Purple= Low strength
Green= Wicking grades

I agree with Frank on the Red. (mark this day on the calendar []). There are exceptions to the rule but it works out pretty well.

Any of the following "reds" will do fine. 262, 266, 271, 272, 277, & 2760

And if you have 242 or 243 "blues", they have pretty good strength to.


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## Randy_ (Dec 14, 2005)

The reason I suggested the "BLUE" is that it is supposed to be a litte less tenacious than the "RED".  According to Loctite, you need heat to release the "RED" version.  The "BLUE" just might release without heat if you ever need to disassemble the pen....based only on what the Loctite web site says.  I have never used either of the varieties on a pen, although I do intend to now that the subject has been breached.  

Mudder: Do you have any more info on the "PURPLE"?  I didn't see it mentioned on the Loctite web site and am not familiar with it??  Thanks.


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## Mudder (Dec 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Randy__
> <br />Mudder: Do you have any more info on the "PURPLE"?  I didn't see it mentioned on the Loctite web site and am not familiar with it??  Thanks.



222 & 222ms is purple.

you should be able to download a catalog from their website. I have the catalog here because we use a lot of those products in our assemblies. I think you can download the MSDS and Techsheets to get strengths.

I agree that if you use red to forget about taking the pen apart. 
Then again, why would you be taking it apart unless the wood is cracked or something? You can get it to release by heating the parts with a heat gun. Either way, the wood is shot.


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## Kevin M (Dec 14, 2005)

It has been mentioned that why would you take a pen apart at a latter date. Well I can say from experience that clips do get bent or broken off and need replaced from time to time and my personal vote will be to try the blue loctite. I do want to thank everyone again for their thoughts on this matter.


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## Randy_ (Dec 15, 2005)

Thanks, Mudder.  Just what I needed!!


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## jrc (Dec 21, 2005)

I have tried a few things to correct this but nothing was long lasting that held the clip.  For the las 3 years I put a tiny amount in the tube, on top of the blank and above the clip on the cap.


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