# Which CA to buy?



## airborne_r6 (Apr 19, 2013)

I need to buy CA and am going to buy it from Exotic Blanks.  I am just not sure which ones to use.  I am used to only having to chose between thick and thin.

Which one does everyone like for CA finishing?


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## ed4copies (Apr 19, 2013)

EZ bond's names are a little misleading, I think.

Their thin and medium are both very thin.  The thick is a little thicker, but far from a "gel".  I use a couple (4-6) coats of thin, then switch to thick to get a "build".

As you probably know, there are a million ways to do a CA finish---so lots of people may have a different way---if it works for you, it is GREAT!!

Ed


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## Kretzky (Apr 19, 2013)

I use mostly thin only, multiple coats (10-12). Others use a couple of coats of thin to seal/ prep followed by multiple coats of medium.
Hope that helps


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## butchf18a (Apr 19, 2013)

Call Ed at Exotics and discuss your needs and what you are trying to accmplish.


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## Justturnin (Apr 19, 2013)

no no no no y'all are doing it wrong.  It is thin, thin, thin, thick, thick, med, med, thin, thin, thin.......  That is the only way to CA.

HAHAHA, kidding.  Get them both, you will use them.


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## Monty (Apr 19, 2013)

I very seldom use medium. I use thin for my finish and thick for gluing tubes and filling gaps/holes.


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## mick (Apr 19, 2013)

Ditto what Monty says. I can't tell you the last time I bought medium. Tubes go in with thick and finish is thin


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## Dan Masshardt (Apr 19, 2013)

I use medium to finish. Thick to glue tubes.


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## 76winger (Apr 19, 2013)

I usually get thick and thin, then mix a little of each if I want a medium (which I usually do for finishing). But with the recent crackling problem I and several overs have had, I've been backing away from medium with accelerator and using more thin, with time in between to dry. Hard for me to wait though...


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## plantman (Apr 19, 2013)

I use thin to seal wood, repair breaks, and to soak segmented or laser cut blanks before and after drilling and while turning down to size. I use thick or gap filling to finish, repair holes, and glue tubes. 4-8 coats is more than enough so you don't sand through and to build up a thick layer. Also thick CA will give you a little more time to make any adjustments if need be. I have never used medium. I usualy go to the hobby store where I can buy CA in 8oz bottles. It's a lot less expensive that way. Keep your glue in a cool dark place and it will last a lot longer. Always keep a bottle of debonder near by when glueing. If you get some CA on your hands, wipe it off with a towel or let it dry. DON"T spray accelerator on it, it will burn your hands. Safety glasses are a must when working with CA, the fumes are toxic and an irritant to eyes, lungs, and skin. Not to mention that it will glue your fingers to anything they touch including each other. If you don't want to pour CA from a large bottle to a smaller one, go to your local Beauty Supply Store and ask for small plastic tint bottles. About $1.25 each. The tops have a very long narrow point for precise application and fit on the 8oz CA bottle. Hope this helps you or someone else a little. Jim S


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## BSea (Apr 19, 2013)

My advice is to get some of each, and figure out how you like the results.  BTW, the correct method is 5 thin then 5 med.  Use thick for gap filling, and epoxy for tubes.

Ed, you do know where to send my commission, right?:biggrin:


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## chrisk (Apr 19, 2013)

Thin for sealing wood with sanding dust; medium for gluing slimlines tubes + CA/BLO finish; thick for gap filling. I generally purchased a couple 2oz thin, a couple 2oz medium and one 2 oz thick from Monty.


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## vanngo5d (Apr 19, 2013)

This boils down to a personal preference I have bought thin, med and thick. But found medium was my perfect one, the other 2 went bad before I finished them.
I only use 2 part 5 min epoxy to glue in tubes. Haven't had a blank failure in a long time.


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## Holz Mechaniker (Apr 19, 2013)

LOL, I will cause more head scratching than help out but I have used Stick Fast brand in thin.  
Titebond in Thin and Med.

But the one that I found that I got the best finish was a dollar store one time use little tube.  

Perhaps it was that the shelf life inside that little aluminum tube helps it last  till doomsday..


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## airborne_r6 (Apr 19, 2013)

I was a little perplexed by the answers here because they really were not what I was asking, I was wondering which CPS everyone used. I went back and took another look at the glue at Exotic Blanks.  Somehow when I looked at the website this morning I thought there was thin, medium and thick in each of the different CPSs listed and the CPS was some other property.  I didn't realize the CPS was the viscosity of the glue.

So my whole question really wasn't a question, just a failure on my part to read.  I guess that is what I get for pen supply online shopping while I am supposed to be participating in a small group discussion. 

I will order one of each thickness so I can see which ones work for me.  Thanks everyone.

Oh and since everyone else is saying how they use glue, I use 5 min epoxy to glue tubes, thin and medium for finishing, medium and thick filling holes, and contact cement for sniffing.


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## robutacion (Apr 19, 2013)

BSea said:


> My advice is to get some of each, and figure out how you like the results.  BTW, the correct method is 5 thin then 5 med.  Use thick for gap filling, and epoxy for tubes.
> 
> Ed, you do know where to send my commission, right?:biggrin:



I mean no disrespect BSea, but you may want to add that your statement meant, what is correct for you, as is no such thing as a "correct" way to apply a CA finish instead, would be  a lot more accurate to say that, there more ways to apply CA finish, as members on IAP what seems totally incorrect to some, is the perfect solution to others, reason of my "intervention" sorry.

As for the real OP question,  one of the great thinks about the E-Z bond CA glues is that, they offer a variety of viscosities and identify them with a viscosity scale, this is not found in any other CA manufacturers out there (not that I'm aware of...!) so, one can purchased viscosities that are not normally available to consumers.

I think I've tried all viscosities of this brand to exactly test which ones work better for me, and on that note, I found that, the 5cup CA (which I call supper thin) is unmatched for soaking soft wood or spots within a piece of wood.  That is followed by the 50 cup one, as "my" thin CA, the one O normally started with when applying the CA finish, a couple of coats and I change to the one I call "medium" which is the 300 cup one, that is the one I use mostly to built my layers (5 to 10) however, I prefer to smooth the medium finish (corrugations) with a few coats of the thin, immediately after the last medium coat, instead of the sandpaper, that seems to flatten the high spots while adding a little more thickness.

I use the 1500 cup as "my" thick CA, for fillings, mixing with powders, crashed stone and others, places where soaking is not so important but a thick stable layer is required.

I do prefer to use Epoxy to glue my tubes...!

Is this correct...??? for me it is or has been, if my working conditions such as temps, humidity levels and others don't change significantly, I may not have a need to change it.

What I'm trying to get into is, is easy to underestimate the physical location to all members that provide their own opinion however, it makes a big difference to apply a CA finish in 40° to 50°C and 20% MC (moisture content) than in the North of Canada, with -30°C and 99% MC, these may be extremes but no so to many here so, everything in between as equally important/relevant for the final results...!

That is my opinion  and I stick with it...!:wink::biggrin:

Cheers
George

_Sent from my dust collector...!_


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## BSea (Apr 20, 2013)

robutacion said:


> BSea said:
> 
> 
> > My advice is to get some of each, and figure out how you like the results.  BTW, the correct method is 5 thin then 5 med.  Use thick for gap filling, and epoxy for tubes.
> ...


I guess I should have used a smiley face.  I was just kidding.  As you and others pointed out, there are as many ways to apply CA as there are people applying CA to pens. And no apology needed.  I should have been clearer.


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## Holz Mechaniker (May 9, 2013)

airborne_r6 said:


> Oh and since everyone else is saying how they use glue, I use 5 min epoxy to glue tubes, thin and medium for finishing, medium and thick filling holes, _and contact cement for sniffing._




Um.... What?!

TMI

Funny as heck but still TMI :laugh::laugh:


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## airborne_r6 (May 9, 2013)

Holz Mechaniker said:


> airborne_r6 said:
> 
> 
> > Oh and since everyone else is saying how they use glue, I use 5 min epoxy to glue tubes, thin and medium for finishing, medium and thick filling holes, _and contact cement for sniffing._
> ...



I was wondering when someone would pick up on that :biggrin:


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## duckdreamin' (May 10, 2013)

*duckdreamin'*

As you guys have probably guessed I am more of a call maker than a penturner. I am getting into turning pens because I love the pens you guys make. I have seen some amazing work, not just here but with friends that operate the local wood supply stores, rockler, woodcraft, wood world in Dallas, tx. I have been using ca glue and to finish some of my calls and have been getting some crackling that I call spiderwebbing. I use med ez with an activator using about 10 to 20 coats. I am looking at a cedar piece that did this. Since the call makers got the ca from you penturners I thought I would go straight to the horses mouth as it were to find the cure. No one on the call makers forum has an answer. Seems you had the same issue. Any thoughts on remedy. Sorry this is so long. Moisture content? Temperature? Waiting some thoughts. Losing money! thanks


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## BSea (May 10, 2013)

duckdreamin' said:


> As you guys have probably guessed I am more of a call maker than a penturner. I am getting into turning pens because I love the pens you guys make. I have seen some amazing work, not just here but with friends that operate the local wood supply stores, rockler, woodcraft, wood world in Dallas, tx. I have been using ca glue and to finish some of my calls and have been getting some crackling that I call spiderwebbing. I use med ez with an activator using about 10 to 20 coats. I am looking at a cedar piece that did this. Since the call makers got the ca from you penturners I thought I would go straight to the horses mouth as it were to find the cure. No one on the call makers forum has an answer. Seems you had the same issue. Any thoughts on remedy. Sorry this is so long. Moisture content? Temperature? Waiting some thoughts. Losing money! thanks


I'm wondering if the change in temperature that a duck call can be subjected to has something to do with the cracking.  Does the cracking happen right away?  Or does it take more than a few months (I'm thinking change of seasons.  I think a duck call is going to be in much harsher conditions than a pen.  And go easy on the accelerator, or don't use any at all.  That's usually a clouding issue though.

If all else fails, I think you might need to use stabilized wood.  This should prevent any movement in the wood, and you may not need any CA at all.  I think that would depend on the material.

I don't know what else you've tried for a finish, but you might try a product called Pens Plus from Doctors Wood Shop. And get some walnut oil too.  Here's a link to a recent thread telling about a method for finishing a pen using these products.  

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/doctors-wood-shop-pen-finish-tutorial-110276/

I have to say, I'm sold on this method.  It makes a notable difference from just applying it as shown on the videos from the website.


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## Holz Mechaniker (May 10, 2013)

The issues I have with CA are numerous. One being that it really doesn't move with the wood.  IF the wood has a moisture in it you may apply a awesome finish with CA but as the wood dries. it shrinks and there is why you get cracks and clouding.  
When I had done some Calls I dipped mine in a concoction of Bee's wax Carnauba Wax and mineral oil.  Buffed it out left a nice satin finish.  Then again I was watching "How do they do it" and watched a guy just dipped in lacquer right out of the gallon pail.  And using CA where human saliva is corrosive to an extent I would think a lacquer or poly would be wiser.

Just MHO




duckdreamin' said:


> As you guys have probably guessed I am more of a call maker than a penturner. I am getting into turning pens because I love the pens you guys make. I have seen some amazing work, not just here but with friends that operate the local wood supply stores, rockler, woodcraft, wood world in Dallas, tx. I have been using ca glue and to finish some of my calls and have been getting some crackling that I call spiderwebbing. I use med ez with an activator using about 10 to 20 coats. I am looking at a cedar piece that did this. Since the call makers got the ca from you penturners I thought I would go straight to the horses mouth as it were to find the cure. No one on the call makers forum has an answer. Seems you had the same issue. Any thoughts on remedy. Sorry this is so long. Moisture content? Temperature? Waiting some thoughts. Losing money! thanks


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