# ceder pen?



## programmergeek (Jan 4, 2010)

I am making a pen for a tree guy I know he brought me some ceder he wanted it made out of.  Troubel is I cut a few blanks and tried to DNA them but they all cracked.  Soaked for 3 days then put in a paper bag, 4 days later crack!  Then thinking I have never seen a  ceder pen.  Is ceder an ok wood to make a pen out of?  How about drying it and sugestions.


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## TellicoTurning (Jan 4, 2010)

I've made cedar pens without the cracking... is your cedar green.. it may still be drying and shrinking...  it's a pretty blah wood for a pen though.

also if you remember, almost all lead pencils are made from cedar..


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## mickr (Jan 4, 2010)

It is also very soft...will dent terribly...let it dry fully...turn it  & see if you don't find it too soft


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## BigguyZ (Jan 4, 2010)

I've done a few cedar pens.  The aromatic kind, not Spanish cedar.  I think the purpleish color is nice, and once you CA it to finish it's not all that soft.


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## ZanderPommo (Jan 4, 2010)

just made a beautiful aromatic knotty cedar slimline with w/a CA finish was plenty hard enough


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## keithlong (Jan 4, 2010)

I have done woodworking for some 25 years now and I made a lot of Cedar Hope Chests. I have made a couple of slimline pens and put 6 coats of CA/BLO on them and was very satisfied. I only use Kiln Dried Cedar though.


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## Karin Voorhis (Jan 4, 2010)

I too say ceder is cool! No prob here with it. with that said I have used only kiln dried too.


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## JimB (Jan 4, 2010)

I also did aromatic cedar and have finished with both poly and ca. The finish really popped the color. They came out beautiful. My wife has one of them!


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## KenBrasier (Jan 4, 2010)

I've made dozens of cedar pen and pencil sets with cedar display boxes using the Eastern Red Cedar (aromatic).  I've had no problems with cracking, they smell great and my customers love them.  I am just trying CA finish, so all I have made so far have had the friction polish finish.


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## woodbutcher (Jan 4, 2010)

I have made some beautiful pens with cedar. I have about 50 cedar trees on my property so a source is not a problem. You must allow the wood to dry for 6 mo - 1 yr to avoid cracking. I leave mine in a cardboard box with the flaps folded over. As stated the CA will toughen up the wood.


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## programmergeek (Jan 4, 2010)

Yea this is the red type, half sapwood.  looks really nice with the CA kind of a red color.  It is pink untreated right now I was hopiing it would darkin or I would have to do something, can't give a tree guy a pink pen


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## tim self (Jan 4, 2010)

If you have any of it with a knot in it, use that.  Will not turn pink but dark purplish/red.  Also, when you do get a good blank, do not overheat while sanding.  Since the wood is so light and soft, I ALWAYS soak it with thin CA to stabalize it.  Have never used kiln dried but you have to watch the heat while working.  It must set a few months before using.


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## JimB (Jan 4, 2010)

programmergeek said:


> Yea this is the red type, half sapwood. looks really nice with the CA kind of a red color. It is pink untreated right now I was hopiing it would darkin or I would have to do something, can't give a tree guy a pink pen


 
Mine looked pinkish/red when turning but once finished it was definately not pink anymore.


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## NewLondon88 (Jan 4, 2010)

another vote for cedar pens. They look great.
As mentioned, get a blank with a knot in it. The figuring
looks great, and any oil or CA can turn it red/purple.
Over time, that will turn brown. But the color really pops
when it gets wet. Soft until you get something hard in it
like thin CA. Too bad the CA seals in the smell, though..


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## hunter-27 (Jan 4, 2010)

*Blah??*



TellicoTurning said:


> I've made cedar pens without the cracking... is your cedar green.. it may still be drying and shrinking... it's a pretty blah wood for a pen though.
> 
> also if you remember, almost all lead pencils are made from cedar..


I have to disagree.  Air dried, yes the slab had cracks but just cut blanks around them.


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## JakeAB (Jan 4, 2010)

+1 for cedar pens. Aromatic cedar was one of the first pens I made (way back in the dawn of my pen turning career, a month or two ago). I used friction polish rather than CA, and it retained its rose/cream colors nicely. It's definitely a soft wood--it turns like butter (okay, I've never turned butter, but you know what I mean)--so it probably won't be a very durable pen. But it sure turned out beautiful.


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## keandkafu (Jan 4, 2010)

I have made several dozen pens from natural dried cedar with no problems. I agree that if you have a blank with knots, use it, it will be awesome. The dark purple color looks great. I apply 5 coats of med CA ad have never had a complaint about it being soft.  Here is an example of one I did.  The cedar I use is from a tree that was cut down abou ttwo years ago and dried naturally.  I cut it into logs and use the whole log to make slabs when I need some.


Kevin

www.deadwoodpenworks.com


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## CSue (Jan 4, 2010)

I've done pens with Eastern Redcedar (Aromatic Cedar), Western Red Cedar, Spanish Cedar and Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  Eastern Redcedar is a beautiful wood to work with - except I've developed an allergy to the oils.  Western Red Cedar was a special request and really took a lot of patience - and a number of blanks.  I'll make more if the customer requests.  But otherwise, I wouldn't advise it for pens.  Spanish cedar is very soft and not that remarkable, in my opinion.  Alaskan Yellow Cedar is a nice wood to work with and not as soft as Spanish Cedar - nice color but not too interesting in a pen.

Sounds like you might have Western Red Cedar.  Take your time with it - slow and easy with the skew - it can make a good pen. It does seems to be softer wood, too so it can "dent."


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## greenmtnguy (Jan 4, 2010)

White Cedar burl is nice looking


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## CSue (Jan 4, 2010)

Chester, thats a beauty.  Where does White Cedar come from?


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## TellicoTurning (Jan 4, 2010)

CSue said:


> Chester, thats a beauty.  Where does White Cedar come from?



I can't tell you where it comes from, but I had a fellow offer me a couple of pieces of white cedar that came from construction beam cut offs... I was expecting some small pieces of wood... the cut off are 24 x 20 x 24 inches... two of them.. 

I'm planning to turn two large bowls when I get a chance.


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## ZanderPommo (Jan 6, 2010)

here you go, made this a couple weeks ago, still smelled after 6 coats of CA, and the customer LOVES that which is the whole point right?











it was actually a trade for the wire figure in the backround, which i had custom ordered


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## Rick_G (Jan 6, 2010)

I had a couple cedar logs about a foot long given to me.  I cut some into blanks about an inch square and dried them in the microwave.  4 blanks at a time 3 minutes on defrost and let cool about 45 minutes before the next cycle.  Took 3 or 4 cycles.  Some cracked some didn't, the cracked ones just went into my firewood box.  The guy who got the pen was happy and thin CA hardened up the surface enough.


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## BigguyZ (Jan 6, 2010)

Wow, that was a fair trade!  Cool figure.

I especially love it when you can get the knot in the wood- very nice pen.



ZanderPommo said:


> here you go, made this a couple weeks ago, still smelled after 6 coats of CA, and the customer LOVES that which is the whole point right?
> 
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> ...


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## snyiper (Jan 6, 2010)

I have some rough cedar if you need any. It has been seasoned and I have made several pens from it.


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## workinforwood (Jan 6, 2010)

What I do Dean is I take the customers wood and say no problem.  I then get my own wood of that species and make a pen for them, not using their wood, but they don't know the difference.  I understand about sentiments and all, but on the flip side you have a reputation of making a good pen that will last a long time.  Being a pen maker is like being a chef..you have to satisfy the customer without compromising your position.


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## glycerine (Jan 6, 2010)

Could you have it stabilized?


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## Karin Voorhis (Jan 6, 2010)

My guess is this thread that you started has opened up a bunch for you!! I am guessing you are egar to try some cedar now yes??? 

I have some kiln dried cedar if you would like some to give It a shot. or any wants to trade to try some...


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## DurocShark (Jan 7, 2010)

Cedar makes for beautiful pens. Even plain cedar cut at an angle to the grain, with a deep CA finish, will look amazing.

Do *not* use melted plexi for a finish. Soft wood plus soft-ish finish equals easy dents. CA is best in my experience.

Put some of the shavings in a ziploc baggie and give them with the pen. Your customer will love being able to take out a pinch every now and again.


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## Karin Voorhis (Jan 7, 2010)

Great trade!!!! Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!




zanderpommo said:


> here you go, made this a couple weeks ago, still smelled after 6 coats of ca, and the customer loves that Which is the whole point right?
> 
> 
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> ...


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## Crayman (Jan 7, 2010)

I found a nice cedar tree at my daughter’s school, they were tossing in woods. I cut a few piece and microwaved them. Made a few nice pens to the principal and a couple for a fund raiser. None have cracked, after 18 months.


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## Rangertrek (Jan 7, 2010)

I made 20 cedar pens for a customer who supplied me with the cedar from his home place.  The wood was dry and it had a few cracks.
I worked around the bad wood, used CA/blo on all of them. 
Customer was satisfied with the pens.  Yes the wood is soft, you can use a little ca while you turn to fill viods, etc.
I like cedar for pens, although it does not have a lot of character unless you have a few knots.


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## ZanderPommo (Jan 7, 2010)

thank you Karin


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