# Just Starting Out



## rdilks (Mar 4, 2015)

Hello All, 

I'm just starting out in this process I took a class at the base wood shop and then got hooked and didn't want to spend to much time at the shop so I bought a lathe, press, and tools to work at home. I bought a 30 pen kit from woodcraft and so far I haven't been to successful with it I've tried two blanks and each one blew out when I got close to the bushings. I think it might be something to do with my drill press not drilling through the exact center (I'm using a square to find the center) any tips for a new person would be appreciated. I have finished two pens at the hobby shop one Koa wood and the other Teak so could it be the wood in the kit? Thanks

Rob


----------



## thewishman (Mar 4, 2015)

Hi Rob, welcome to the IAP. Slimline pens are very difficult to do just right, there is so little wood left on the tubes when you are done. Sometimes, often even, the problem you are describing is due to poor glue coverage, the glue is not spread evenly on the tube. 

When you had the blow-outs, did you notice if there was any wood or glue still stuck to the tube where it shattered? If not, you may need to work on getting the glue spread more evenly. I put some glue on the brass tube and swirl it in one end of the blank and pull it back out. Next I add more glue and push the tube in the opposite end of the blank and twist it around as it goes in. You can use about any glue - and many will argue that their glue works best - but getting good coverage is the key.

If it is not the glue, or even if it is, please post a picture of the blow-outs and we can help you in a better way.

Best of luck!


----------



## Charlie_W (Mar 4, 2015)

Welcome from Virginia!


----------



## lwalper (Mar 4, 2015)

I agree with the glue-up procedure. Most of my failures (as far as pieces flying off the brass :biggrin have been related to poor glue adhesion -- not a fault of the glue -- a process problem. If you're using a thin CA for the glue-up, it sometimes sets up pretty quickly and you get in a hurry trying to get the tube in place before the glue hardens. Try using a thicker CA formulation, or something like Gorilla glue (the expanding kind), or maybe 5 minute epoxy. Each of those have a little longer working time and will allow you time to get everything well covered with glue. You might even try using a toothpick or similar disposable tool to spread a little glue inside the drilled blank.


----------



## wyone (Mar 4, 2015)

welcome to the addiction!    do not get discouraged.  I guarantee everyone on this site has had that or a similar issue, so we will contribute what we can to help you.  

For me..  when I had those issues it was one of a few things..  

either I did not do a great job drilling... not necessary if it is perfectly centered, but it needs to be a good bit and depending on the materials, you normally cannot drill it in one shot.  I rarely drill over 1/4 inch at a time before I withdraw and clean out the chips.  Even more often with acrylics.  I also rarely drill ALL the way through the bottom of the blank.  It seems like that extra pressure at the end can cause micro cracks in the material that do not show up until you get close to the bushing thickness.  

I used to use a pen mill to make sure the ends are square, but I have changed to sanding them and my success has improved.

I also was trying to use medium CA and I switched to thick.  My method is to have the tubes ready (you did rough them up with sandpaper so the CA can grab hold right) and then drip a drop or two of CA into the blank..  then onto the tube... insert the tube, turning as I do, but then quickly pull back out, sometimes apply a bit more CA and again turning push it back in, and make sure it is far enough into the blank.

Just a couple ideas that work for me..


----------



## JimB (Mar 5, 2015)

When I first started I had the same problem. It was caused by either poor glue coverage (as already mentioned by others ) or poor drilling that caused the hole to be slightly larger than it should have been and therefore too large a gap between the wood and tube for the glue to fill. The problem will not be related to not drilling dead center through the blank.


----------



## kyaggie (Mar 5, 2015)

The glue up tips should help you out but lets not forget your lathe tools... make sure they are very sharp so you can apply minimal pressure to remove that last bit of wood.

Mike


----------



## MillerTurnings (Mar 5, 2015)

Learning to sharpen tools properly is the first skill that is needed to turn. Time and money spent here will greatly increase your chances of success and fun. Keep at it and enjoy.


----------



## stonepecker (Mar 5, 2015)

Along with everything above...I would watch some youtube vids.  Sometimes "seeing" makes it easier to do yourself.   Don't forget the information in the library here.  You have a world of info at your finger tips.
One last thing.  EVERYONE here in the IAP that has turned any amount of pens will tell you that Blow Outs happen.  They are part of the learning process.  We all learn from our mistakes.  With the IAP, we can avoid some of them by listening to the other people making them.

Welcome and enjoy the fun.


----------



## raar25 (Mar 5, 2015)

So make sure you do the following:

1. rough up the tube with sand paper 
2. clean both the tube and the inside of the wood blank before gluing
3. use 5 minute epoxy and coat both the tube and the wood blank before you insert the tube.
4. allow at least 1 hour before you try to do anything to the glued up blanks 
5 once the blanks are square and and trimmed to length if you have any voids at the end between the brass tube and the wood fill them with thin CA.
6.  clean off any  excess CA from teh end and inside the tube.
7. turn your barrels with some curve so they thin out as  you get close to the ends.  If you make the barrel straight it is very weak and does not support the ends well
8. when you are getting near the bushing makes sure your tool only travels from the wood off of the blank.  Do not move your chisel from the bushing on to the wood blank or the fibers will catch and you may blow out.
9. last few cuts should be very light.  the last .020" usually takes me the longest
10. sand the last .010" (till you fingernail just catches).  As you get better you will be able to get closer.

good luck and welcome to the club.


----------



## alankulwicki7 (Mar 5, 2015)

Where in Hawaii are you?
Is there anyone close by that can give some pointers? Maybe a turning club?
I find most turners are always willing to teach their tricks to new turners.

If the wood is soft, I always like to use some thin CA on the blank as I get close to the bushings. Just make sure you remove the bushings before you do this or you might glue the bushings to the blank DAMHIKT


----------



## rdilks (Mar 5, 2015)

Thanks for the help I'm starting another pen now and have some time so we'll see how it goes I will post the results


----------



## plano_harry (Mar 5, 2015)

Welcome to IAP!  Hoping the above comments will get you to the finsih line.  If it does blow up, take the best pictures you can and post them.  We might be able to see the problem.


----------



## rdilks (Mar 11, 2015)

*Found the issue*

Thanks for all the help the issue was when I was drilling my center hole I was drilling half way and flipping the blank the holes were a little off and that caused the blow outs I've fixed it and am on my way thanks again


----------



## Lenny (Mar 11, 2015)

If you are limited by the quill travel of your drill press, try placing a scrap piece of wood under the blank and continue drilling rather than flipping the blank.


----------



## triw51 (Mar 11, 2015)

Usually when I get blow outs that close to bushings it is because I am rushing and pushing to hard on the tool or the tool is not sharp.  IMHO


----------



## Rick_G (Mar 11, 2015)

Don't worry to much about being exactly centred.  Unless you are so far off the outside of the closest edge to the center you chose is less than the end size you need the wood will center itself to whatever you chose for a center.  Most likely problem is uneven glue spread, cracks in the blanks or dull tools.


----------



## jrc (Mar 17, 2015)

Started turning pens in 2000 and made well over 20,000 pens.  I've helped several friends get a good start making them.  One thing I told everyone is to start with slimlines because there cheap and when you master them you can turn anything. First step is to buy 100 tubes and use  plan maple for you first 50 practice pens. Once you have turned them all you will have gluing, sanding and finishing figured out.  I have a few videos I put on YouTube a few years ago that might help.   Youtube.com/jrc048


----------

