# Drilling problems



## jedgerton (Jan 27, 2007)

OK, I'm really feeling like an idiot.  I'm trying to drill a box elder burl blank for a Statesman pen.  The problem I'm having is that the chuck keeps coming off of my drill press.  I've used this press for a long time drilling all sorts of blanks in 7mm and 10mm.  This kit requires a 15/32" bit so it larger than what I'm used to using.  My chuck is a standard #1 MT chuck and the bit I'm using is a Harbor Freight (jobber style) drill bit.

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?


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## TAld (Jan 27, 2007)

Don't think you are doing anything wrong. Mine will do the same sometimes. Remove the chuck then clean the morse taper and the hole it fits into on the drill press with a little mineral sprits or something of that nature. Make sure there is not oil or dust residue remaining on either surface. Open the chuck jaws so the a fully retracted into the chuck - then place the chuck back into the drill press and use a small block of scrap wood and a hammer and give it a couple good whacks to seat it properly and you should be good to go.


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## LostintheWoods (Jan 28, 2007)

Are you using the same chuck you've always used, or are you perhaps using the setup which you normally use on your lathe? ....Because, some drill presses use a different taper--JT33--which is a little different than Morse Taper. If this is not the case, Tom is right...clean out the quill and the shaft of the chuck, make SURE it is dry, and smack it home, as he suggests. You can also place a block on your drill press table, and crank the chuck down against it to snug it up. Good luck!


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## Randy_ (Jan 28, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LostintheWoods_
> <br />Are you using the same chuck you've always used, or are you perhaps using the setup which you normally use on your lathe? ....Because, some drill presses use a different taper--JT33--which is a little different than Morse Taper. If this is not the case, Tom is right...clean out the quill and the shaft of the chuck, make SURE it is dry, and smack it home, as he suggests. You can also place a block on your drill press table, and crank the chuck down against it to snug it up. Good luck!



Is the chuck coming off of the Jacobs taper or is the arbor coming out of the spindle??  

In either event, clean up all of the parts well.  If the chuck is coming off the taper, try getting it good and warn with a hairdryer and setting it in place with a sharp whack from a block of wood.  Don't forget to fully retract the jaws first as you want to hit the chuck body and not the jaws.  Same basic technique can be used if the chuck arbor is coming out of the quill; but stick the chuck/arbor in the freezer for an hour or so before setting it in the spindle.


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 28, 2007)

Even though the Morse female and male tapers may be made within tolerances the sometimes just won't mate up properly. Cleaning and hammer whacking can sometimes help. My drill press used to give me that  problem too. One day I'll buy a Morse taper reamer to true up my tools. But they are expensive.


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## Randy_ (Jan 28, 2007)

If it is the arbor that is out of tolerance, I don't think there is much chance that using a reamer will help??

As to MT reamers, it is true that most of them are pretty expensive.....on the order of $75.....but I seem to recall a post by someone about finding one that was reasonably priced.  I think it was Dario and I think it was priced around $20.  If my memory is faulty, perhaps someone can post a correction as necessary.  Thanks.


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## jedgerton (Jan 28, 2007)

Everyone,

Thanks for the ideas.  I tried the cleanup idea and it helped but its still happening some of the time.  I will try the cleaning again coupled with the temperature pre-conditioning.


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## Jerryconn (Jan 28, 2007)

I have found that the chuck may come off the morse taper if there is lot of vibration (i.e. bent drill bit) while drilling.


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## btboone (Jan 28, 2007)

The key to a Morse or Jacobs taper is full contact all the way along the connection.  If there is any scarred, rusted, or uneven metal on the taper, this needs to be sanded to flush to get that good contact.  Try sanding with 400 grit paper and it will highlight any high spots.  Just be sure they are all gone and the taper is clean and dry before inserting.  A sharp rap with a metal hammer will be more effective than one cushioned with wood or plastic.


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## Verne (Apr 30, 2007)

I've got a HD drill press (Ryobi DP120) that I have suddenly became very unhappy with. I took one back to HD because the bits wobbled so much. They replaced the whole thing and now this newer version is doing the same thing. The hole comes out just a jad out of round. Is there something inside the machine that I can do to fix this or is that the nature of the beast...other than going out and buying a more expensive brand or a floor model what are my options?
Thanks,
Vern


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## Rifleman1776 (Apr 30, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Verne_
> <br />I've got a HD drill press (Ryobi DP120) that I have suddenly became very unhappy with. I took one back to HD because the bits wobbled so much. They replaced the whole thing and now this newer version is doing the same thing. The hole comes out just a jad out of round. Is there something inside the machine that I can do to fix this or is that the nature of the beast...other than going out and buying a more expensive brand or a floor model what are my options?
> Thanks,
> Vern



A Ryobi shouldn't do that. A hole even a "tad" (I believe that's what you meant [] ) out of round enough so you can see it is a gross defect in the machine. Insist on a refund or exchange for a different make. BTW, a floor model is far more versitile than a bench.


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## dbriski (Apr 30, 2007)

Verne, Are you sure it isn't your bit? Just another possibility, If not take it back.


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## Verne (Sep 14, 2007)

Ok, here we are 6 months later. Haven't done a whole lot of penturning lately but finally took the ryobi back to HD and got a credit from them.
Question: Rigid DP1550 floor model or Sears 15" floor model. 
I've been through 5 bench tops (sears and ryobi)and they all are just not cutting the program.
Thanks in advance for your expertise.
Vern


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## Woodlvr (Sep 14, 2007)

Ridgid has the best warranty.  Just make sure to set it up properly before drilling blanks. I love mine now since last week when I got it straightened out by a friend. JMHO. If you do get the Ridgid be sure to register it on line right away so that you will have the lifetime parts warranty. [] 

Mike


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## Verne (Sep 14, 2007)

Thanks for the info Mike. What was it that needed straightening out? You can reply offline if you like so as to not take up bandwidth.
desplinter@sbcglobal.net
Vern


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## Rifleman1776 (Sep 16, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Verne_
> <br />Thanks for the info Mike. What was it that needed straightening out? You can reply offline if you like so as to not take up bandwidth.
> desplinter@sbcglobal.net
> Vern



Vern, you would not be "wasting" bandwidth. The purpose of the forum is to share.


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## Fred (Sep 16, 2007)

I am a firm believer in that "You get what you pay for." That goes for equipment that we expect to work. I have yet to really see anything in Harbor Freight that would come close to JET, Rigid, PowerMatic, just to name a few IAP members would recognize. Whatever you decide to do stay with a name brand piece of equipment.

I would highly suggest that you go to your local Woodcraft and look at the equipment there. Go during the month of your birthday and get 10% off. Be sure to sign up for their newsletters and watch for sales. Stay away from the bench top models as I have yet to find one that would hold up to what we put them through at times.


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## Verne (Sep 16, 2007)

Fred et al,
Thanks for the information. There is a price consideration so I guess it's the most bang for the buck. I'm now settled on either the Rigid 1550 ($279)or the Sears model that is on sale for, I think,($296). Reading the stuff I could find on the www it seems to be a toss up with most people happy with the units and maybe one or two that really hate what they have.
I was just wondering about these two and hoped someone on the site would have had some experience with them.
Vern


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## IPD_Mrs (Sep 16, 2007)

Someone said on here not too long ago, "You can cry once or you can cry every time you use it."  I agree with what Fred said.  Buy the very best you can.  Look at tool reviews and talk to folks that have the equipment you are interested in.  And I don't care how good a warranty is, if it is always breaking down and you cannot use it because you are waiting on parts or repair then it is no different than buying a piece of trash.


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## gerryr (Sep 16, 2007)

I must be lucky.  I have a HF benchtop DP, 12 speed, that I've put through a lot of use and probably abuse.  It just keeps working fine.  Same for the 21 gallon compressor I got from HF, although it doesn't get used as hard as the DP.


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## maxwell_smart007 (Sep 17, 2007)

Buy once, Cry once - as Sonny is wont to say!


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## Rifleman1776 (Sep 17, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Verne_
> <br />Fred et al,
> Thanks for the information. There is a price consideration so I guess it's the most bang for the buck. I'm now settled on either the Rigid 1550 ($279)or the Sears model that is on sale for, I think,($296). Reading the stuff I could find on the www it seems to be a toss up with most people happy with the units and maybe one or two that really hate what they have.
> I was just wondering about these two and hoped someone on the site would have had some experience with them.
> Vern


Vern, you are doing what we should all do. Compare features, cost and make a jugement on quality. Put all that in the mix and come up with what is the best value for YOU. I have to disagree with those who say you get what you pay for. Too often, today, a label or advertising hype jacks up prices and you (may) get no better quality than with a different brand at less money. The sad part is we often are unable to determine that until after the fact. Good luck with your choices, let us know how they work out.


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## leehljp (Sep 17, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Rifleman1776_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



I couldn't agree more. I like good tools and pay for them. I also look at what is available and check to see if it will do what I need at a cheaper price. I have a Porter Cable jig saw that I paid $140.00 several years ago. I bought a HF Bosch clone for half that. The HF Bosch clone cuts circles around the PC. 

Now who in the world would think that a HF jig saw would out cut a PC? I have many name brand tools, I also have HF and other off brand tools. It pays to check. 

I have a Fein MultiMaster that cost about $200 and it will do things that rotozips or dremels can only dream about doing. Sometimes brands are worth it and sometimes you pay for the name.


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## Verne (Sep 17, 2007)

Ok friends. I have the Rigid in the back of my truck waiting on my compadre to come and help me assemble it. It's nearly 200lbs so the help is appreciated. What sold me was the lifetime warranty! I'll let you all know how it is after we get it together.
Thanks, Vern


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## Verne (Sep 17, 2007)

WEll, outta the truck and into the garage, assembled in probably one hour. Put an expensive drill in and very little noticable wobble of the bit. Didn't drill anything, tomorrow will be tuneup time and drill a couple blanks. That is, right after I get Ricks trade a pen in the mail.
Thanks for all your thots on the matter. I think this Ridgid is going to be ok. We'll see.
Vern


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## great12b4ever (Sep 17, 2007)

I think you will like the Rigid.  I have had mine quite a while and have had NO problems except operator error.  As far as brand go, and HF.  I have a Porter Cable and a Makita 4.5" x 4.5" vibrating sander that are fairly expensive, and have had troubles with them both.  I saw a HF sale 2 years ago for their little 4.5" x 4.5" vibrating sander for around $5.00.  I thought what the %#*& and bought 2 of them thinking that even if they didn't last but a month or two, I would get my monies worth.  Well BOTH are still running fine and they get a work out between me and LOML.  I Liked them so much I have bought another 4 of them and now have dedicated stands with pre-cut paper for 6 different grits.  So I don't knock anything until I have personally tried it for a while.

Rob


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## Rifleman1776 (Sep 18, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Verne_
> <br />WEll, outta the truck and into the garage, assembled in probably one hour. Put an expensive drill in and very little noticable wobble of the bit. Didn't drill anything, tomorrow will be tuneup time and drill a couple blanks. That is, right after I get Ricks trade a pen in the mail.
> Thanks for all your thots on the matter. I think this Ridgid is going to be ok. We'll see.
> Vern



Justa second there, you said, "...very little noticable wobble ..."  There shouldn't be ANY wobble, little noticable or otherwise. Do check to see if your bits are bent. Even the slightest wobble is unacceptable. Test with several bits from different manufacturers and different sizes. If wobble remains, do consider returning the drill press. If it is not too late, I suggest you do not do your experimenting with pen blanks. Drill into scrap wood and see what happens.


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## BigguyZ (Sep 18, 2007)

Can't you buy a bit specific for tune up?  I thought I saw that the Delta DPs at Lowes come with one...  HF has a good dial indicator and magnetic base available for cheap.  I just picked one up with a coupon for $15 for the set.  Anyways, you can use that to measure the amount of runout (wobble) the DP has and make sure it's accurate.  The indicator is also good for table saws and any other WWing equipment you may have.


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## Verne (Sep 18, 2007)

Travis,
Do you think you could find that dial indicator at HF or Lowe's and post a link. I looked on HF site and couldn't seem to come up with one.
Vern


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## BigguyZ (Sep 18, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Verne_
> <br />Travis,
> Do you think you could find that dial indicator at HF or Lowe's and post a link. I looked on HF site and couldn't seem to come up with one.
> Vern



No Problem.  
Dial Indicator-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
Magnetic Base-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search

I got them for $6.99 each when the coupon was available, but the indicator is on sale online (B&M will match), so it's $9.99 and $17.99.  Still a solid deal, IMHO.

EDIT: here's a different magnetic base without the fine adjust.  Should wold just as well for most of your needs, and it's $8 less.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5646


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## jcollazo (Sep 18, 2007)

Here's one at Little Machine Shop $19.95 indicator, base, indicator point set and case.

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1782&category=


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