# Finish for Olivewood



## jking

I turned a pen out of Olivewood last night. I have final sanding left to do, but, I'm wondering about what to use for the finish. I had planned to do a CA finish. The problem is that the wood is rather ordinary looking. Many of the olivewood pens I've seen others post have more light/dark color variation. This blank looked like it would be pretty good when I bought it, but, after turning look about as bland as pine.

Olivewood is very oily to begin with, so, I didn't think BLO would make much sense. Or, should I just put on the CA & be done with it? This is just going to be one of my pens, so, no one else to please here.


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## Rifleman1776

Olive wood can tolerate being left alone. If you want to finish, do wipe with DNA first to get rid of the surface oil.


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## chrisk

Cellulosic sealer (if necessary) + pure (stick form) Carnauba Wax.


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## jking

Rifleman1776 said:


> Olive wood can tolerate being left alone. If you want to finish, do wipe with DNA first to get rid of the surface oil.



I considered just using MM up to 12000 & leaving it, but, saw some comments in earlier posts indicating that it's still advisable to protect the wood with a finish.

DNA or accelerant?  I've seen recommendations for both, as well as acetone.  I've also seen recommendations against using any one of the above.


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## PaulSF

"Olive wood can tolerate being left alone."

OMG!!!  I've just spent all week trying different finishes on a set of olive wood blanks, only to not like the look (because I suck!), sanding off the finish, trying again, not liking it (because I still suck!!), sanding off the finish, etc.  Finally I just yanked the blanks off the mandrel and have thrown up my hands in frustration!  

So maybe one more thorough sanding, micromesh, and if there's ANY wood left, I'll have a pen??

Aaaarrgghhhhh!!!


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## RichB

I am working on 7 bow pens right now. I just finished the first one and it looks great right now. Don't know about later. This is how I am doing it
1. RPMS at 810 for all of this
2. Sand to 600 then dry sand mm to 1200
3. wash blank with accelerator while lathe is running
4. slight drying then put on one swipe of thin ca using folded blue paper towel. This dries very fast because of the accelerator in and on the wood.
5.after drying with no accelerator put on 10 more coats of thin ca. drying with no accelerator. Thin ca dries quite fast. I have used accelerator with a spray can but very quick shot about 6 to 12 inches away. I have had some bubbles so now I let it dry on it's own.
6.Wet sand with all mm up to 12000
7. put on 2 coats of Ren Wax

If there are any raised wood or imperfections during the ca application I light sand with 600 or 1000 dry then continue with ca. This is like DJs way from another web site I think it has been mentioned on this site also. I have done less applications and no accelerator. Hope this helps there are a lot of ways to do this. So far this way seems to work for me on BOW.


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## dustmaker

Rich,

Your process is very similar to the one that I am settling into.  I use only a drop or two of thin CA per blank...any more and I tend to get ridges and grooves.  As you say thin CA dries very quickly...you can build up 12 coats this way very quickly and very little sanding is needed.  I wet sand MM down to 12000 and use HUT plastic polish or sometimes white diamond on the buffer.  If the wood feels oily I wipe it down with acetone a few times before putting on the CA.  I have done two BOW pens this way and they still look great.


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## Rifleman1776

PaulSF said:


> "Olive wood can tolerate being left alone."
> 
> OMG!!!  I've just spent all week trying different finishes on a set of olive wood blanks, only to not like the look (because I suck!), sanding off the finish, trying again, not liking it (because I still suck!!), sanding off the finish, etc.  Finally I just yanked the blanks off the mandrel and have thrown up my hands in frustration!
> 
> So maybe one more thorough sanding, micromesh, and if there's ANY wood left, I'll have a pen??
> 
> Aaaarrgghhhhh!!!



Think about this. In places where Olive wood is common, like Italy, Spain, etc., it is often used for kitchen utensils. Spoons and such are used for many years and still look just fine. Pens will do well also.


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## mywoodshopca

I did about 30 olivewood pens and use one myself..

I always rubbed them good with acetone before doing between 4 and 10 coats of CA then polishing with plastic polish. The one I use still looks like day 1 over a year later.


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## Ligget

I am working on an Bethlehem Olive Wood pen just now, normally I CA finish everything but this time I think it would look better natural looking, so I`ll use sanding sealer then some friction polish.


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## dustmaker

I made this one for my daughter.  It is finished with CA.  It still looks good after a few weeks of college, dorm room living.


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## BigguyZ

Pretty X!  :biggrin:


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## TellicoTurning

Rifleman1776 said:


> Olive wood can tolerate being left alone. If you want to finish, do wipe with DNA first to get rid of the surface oil.



Agree,  I have a Med olive that I didn't finish... the oil in your hands will eventually darken the wood, but will also add a sheen that is nice... I've used mine for about 6 or 8 years so far.


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