# Help with reeves drive?



## angboy (May 5, 2006)

I'm hoping someone can help me out with a problem I'm having with my reeves drive on my Jet JWL-1236. In the past month or so, there've been a few times when I try to move the variable speed up, like after having it at the lowest setting for putting on CA for a finish and then wanting it back up to max speed. Well sometimes, it'll actually slow down as I move up the speed levels, to the point that the higher it moves up, it may even evetually stop altogether. 

I've looked at it without the cover on and what seems to be happening when it does this is that thewheel that's towards the back and is supposed to expand and contract isn't doing that and so the drive belt is barely moving.

I've taken a picture of the area where I think the problem is, but of course I took it after I fixed it- but what has fixed it each time has been to push the round coiled spring I guess it is, off to the left some, because it seems like the problem is almost that there's too many coils around the outer ring that's the thicker area below the long skinny part that the coil is mainly on.

I've tried using brake cleaner on it, because I know that had been recommended before, but that doesn't seem to be solving the problem. If anybody can catually understand what I'm describing- my apologies for not being better able to put this into words and describe things clearly- then if you have any ideas, please let me know!


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## Mudder (May 5, 2006)

Cleaning with brake cleaner is fine, what are you using for lubrication after it's clean? 





You need something like dry-moly. I think your problem is that it's getting crud built up on the shaft and sticking. Those pulleys have also been known to wear at the key and cause problems. If you take it apart (only as a last resort mind you) I suggest polishing the shaft with steel wool till it looks as smooth as a baby's butt. Lube it good and see if that helps. A good cleaning with an air hoose might just keep you from having to disassemble.


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## leehljp (May 5, 2006)

I agree with Mudder. Seems like maybe some crud is building up on the shaft. If some of the crud caused it to get a smidgen off center, it could have worn a small ridge in the pully or shaft.


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## fritzmccorkle (May 5, 2006)

i can't believe they understood a word you said.  i'm very impressedd.  knowing you as i do i'm also pretty impressed you got the cover off.  hahahahaha


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## angboy (May 6, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Mudder_
> <br />Cleaning with brake cleaner is fine, what are you using for lubrication after it's clean?
> 
> You need something like dry-moly. I think your problem is that it's getting crud built up on the shaft and sticking. Those pulleys have also been known to wear at the key and cause problems. If you take it apart (only as a last resort mind you) I suggest polishing the shaft with steel wool till it looks as smooth as a baby's butt. Lube it good and see if that helps. A good cleaning with an air hoose might just keep you from having to disassemble.



Oops, there was supposed to be another step after the brake stuff?? [:0][:0] I guess I didn't know that part. From the long ago post that I remember getting the brake stuff suggestion from, I thought I remembered it saying something about not lubing the shaft, and I hadn't done any lubing and (at that time) didn't know what the shaft was, so I thought I was OK. 

Oh well, I haven't been to ACE in all of about three days, so I guess it's time for a trip there, so that I can have them tell me what the heck "dry-moly" is??? (I'm assuming it's something one could find at ACE?) [][]




> _Originally posted by fritzmccorkle_
> <br />i can't believe they understood a word you said.  i'm very impressedd.  knowing you as i do i'm also pretty impressed you got the cover off.  hahahahaha



Not only did I get the cover off- all by myself mind you- no assistance from any neighbors, friends, surrogates, etc.- I also got the cover back on! [][] See below- I did end up with a few extra screws[!], but I just told myself they were extras to begin with[^]. And it's a good thing I always listen to my dad when he says you can't have too many clamps, because I sure needed one to get that cover to stay back on!

See Fritz, I can accomplish most anything that any female who has a male around can do, and with some effort, I can keep the score even, just to be sure I'm not surpassed[}][]. I just have to work twice as hard and do twice as much! But, just because it would be easier to have a male person with strong arm muscles around to take the cover off the next time I have a problem, I'll keep looking for that special someone who likes my duplex idea, whose muscles I can use and abuse [][]- I think I'll try google earth for my search! []





<br />


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## Randy_ (May 6, 2006)

DSA:

I think folks are on the right track here; but without seeing things first-hand, it can be tricky.  First off, the JET manual is no help, whatsoever.....am I not surprised.....though they do recommend only kerosene for cleaning "the protected surfaces."  I, too, think you probably have a cleaning/lubrication problem even though your picture shows a fairly clean machine.  Like Mudder, I am a great believer in benefits of a healthy dose of compressed air every so often if you have a compressor in your shop.  If not, you can get canned air at computer shops.....probably expensive and not as powerful as a real compressor; but better than nothing.  

I have heard the comments about not lubing the Reeves drive; but would like to have it directly from JET before I would accept it as gospel.  Most machinery with moving parts needs some sort of lubrication......those that don't are uncommon exceptions.  Do call or email JET and see what they have to say about lubing the Reeves shaft.  You can get phone numbers and email addys at www.jettools.com .  My personal experience is that you spend a lot of time on hold with phone calls and have only about a 25% chance of getting someone who can answer your question.  I have given up on the phone in favor of the email and they are usually pretty prompt....next day in most cases.....in answering questions.

The dry moly that Mudder is talking about is a material called molybdenum disulfide.  It is sort of like the graphite that you use to lubricate locks; but much slipperier.  It is a powder that comes in an aerosol can mixed with a quickly evaporating carrier.  Sort of like the old deodorants with powder.  Spray them on and the carrier evaporates leaving only the powder.  Ace would be a good place to look for it....if they don't have it, see if they have graphite.

I also agree that the next step after the clean and lube would be to disassemble the drive(rear) pulley and be sure it moves freely and is free of burrs or unusual wear.  This is a job that is a little more involved than what you have tackled so far and you might want to have an experienced person around if you attempt that job.

I would also do a cut & paste of your original post and send it to JET and see what they have to say.  You might leave out the part about about being smarter than their engineers and reassembling the thing with parts left to spare!![][]

Good luck and let us know how you make out.....Oops??.....with the machine that is.  Your personal life is your own!![}][}]


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## Rifleman1776 (May 6, 2006)

On my Grizzly I use a gun lubricant that has a teflon base. Any gun shop will have it, there are a couple brands on the market. Clean then just squirt the shafts with the lube. I do mine about once a year. BTW, the Jet pulleys look identical to the ones on my Griz.


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## Monty (May 6, 2006)

Angela
I have the same lathe and have had the same problem. Needs to be cleaned and lubed. If you  still have questions, PM me your number and I'll call you and try to help further.


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## rtparso (May 6, 2006)

I don't have a reeves drive but I have had some sucess with the "wet graphite" that tis sold for locks. The liquid is alcohol and will loosen any build up as it lubes.


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## angboy (May 8, 2006)

Thanks for the help everybody. I got some of the graphite stuff at ACE and put it on. So far, it's working OK, but then it wasn't something that happened all the time, so I guess I just have to wait and see if it solved the problem. If it didn't, then I'll be calling you Mannie!


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## Randy_ (May 9, 2006)

DSA:  Don't wait for your reeves drive to start sticking in the future.  Dust the shafts with a little of that graphite every so often as a preventative.  Try every 6 months for a start and if that doesn't work do it more frequently until you discover the correct interval.

BTW, I emailed JET and asked them for a lubrication recommendation.  Don't know why I even bothered.  Their prompt response was we don't know, call this number.  You can almost be guaranteed of sitting on hold for a long time if you call in!!  Guess they never heard of forwarding emails??


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## angboy (May 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Randy__
> <br />
> BTW, I emailed JET and asked them for a lubrication recommendation.  Don't know why I even bothered.  Their prompt response was we don't know, call this number.  You can almost be guaranteed of sitting on hold for a long time if you call in!!  Guess they never heard of forwarding emails??



Good idea to lube it regularly Randy, thanks for that tip. I'll probably start with more frequent than every 6 months, considering I first had this happen a couple of months ago and the lathe is only about 9 months old, but I'll hope that more often than might be necessary might not be a problem.

BTW, I didn't get a response from JET either. And I've had the experience you described in calling and not being able to get any decent help, so I'm just going with the experts here!

DSA


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## Randy_ (May 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by angboy_
> [br.....I'll probably start with more frequent than every 6 months.....



Angela:  Lubing too frequently could be a big problem for you!!  If you end up with an extra part or two every time you take the cover off to lube, pretty soon, all you will have is a pile of parts rather than a working lathe??[][][]


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## angboy (May 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Randy__
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



Touche Randy!! Guess I'll have to try to figure out where those extra parts go and see if I can shove them in somewhere!! [][][}][}]


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## Randy_ (May 9, 2006)

Ouch!!![][][]


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## johnson (May 10, 2006)

I will talk to the Jet rep about your problem next time I see him. I will forward his e-mail. Since he covers Minnesota I'm not sure how much he can help you, but he can jack up the rep out there. There is no excuse for not responding to a customer question. I like giving those guys grief anyway. A friend of mine has a Jet that is the next step up from yours. So far the reeves drive failed, the tool rest broke, the rest extention broke, and the bed cracked. That is why I own Delta. In three years, the reeves drive hasn't failed yet. The midi is another story. It will soon become a Jet propelled Delta w/variable speed. With all the companies buying and selling each other, quality has gone right in the crapper. Next step is a Oneway.


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## Randy_ (May 10, 2006)

I sent JET a second email suggesting that they forward my original question to someone who could answer it and received the response a day later.  Doesn't seem like it should be such a struggle; but the informatioin is available if you work for it.

".....I sent this on to Technical Support for you.  Here is what they advise:
'He can use a lithium based grease to lubricate the pulleys. That stuff keeps wood dust from building up and still keeps it nice and lubed.'....."

Hope this helpful to some of you.  I'm not sure why lithium grease would prevent the build-up of wood dust; but am not willing to hang on the phone for a half hour to find out.  From my perspective, since that is what they recommend, that is what I would try.  If it did not work to my satisfaction, I would then try to find the dry moly suggested by Mudder.  I have used molybdenum lubricants before and they have always worked well.  I suspect that dry moly would be a better material to use than graphite; but the graphite should be OK.  I would guess it might have to be applied more frequently than the moly; but that is just a guess??


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## Rifleman1776 (May 10, 2006)

The lube thing is digressing a bit from the original question but it's still a good thing to share. There is a grease (or whatever) used in the automotive business that doesn't attract dust. I think it is used on door hinges. Something to look into.


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## Ron in Drums PA (May 10, 2006)

Frank, it's called lithium grease! Look at Randy's post!

Sometimes it packaged with the snazy name "White Lube"


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## RogerGarrett (Nov 5, 2006)

It's been a long time since this topic came up, but my Jet 1236 is experinecing two problems I want to solve, and this thread is definitely related......sorry for dredging it up!

When I try to move to the fastest speed, the handle will not lock in place - or click at all.  Thus, when you are on that speed, the handle vibrates back down to the next position.  I'm going to remove covers and begin cleaning, lubricating as per this thread, but I wanted to check here first to see if anyone else has had this particular issue.

Second problem is probably related to the first - the handle is a little resistant to move.

Wondering Dario - is this why you sold your Jet 1235 and upgraded?

BTW - purchased a new Jet Mini VS - as a second lathe.  Really need two - and I'm looking forward to putting it together today.  

Best,
Roger Garrett[]


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## TellicoTurning (Nov 5, 2006)

I'm going to show some ignorance here, but what is a reeve drive[?]

It looks like a sort of expanding pulley that allows the belt to go between the two sides on a variable diameter.


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 5, 2006)

> _Originally posted by ozmandus_
> <br />I'm going to show some ignorance here, but what is a reeve drive[?]
> 
> It looks like a sort of expanding pulley that allows the belt to go between the two sides on a variable diameter.



You figured it out. Variable diameters for variable speeds.
Another name might be 'poor man's variable speed control'.
Good (meaning expensive) VS lathes use expensive motors and high tech electronic controllers.


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## TellicoTurning (Nov 5, 2006)

I guess that describes me..."poor man"


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