# Sanding in between CA applications or not?



## LAKingsFan (Nov 16, 2005)

Do you sand in between CA applications? Or do you apply several coats one after the other and then sand?

Also, what is the best grits to use for sanding to a great finish?

Thank you all

Ron


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## Dario (Nov 16, 2005)

I build up and apply several coats without sanding....that is if no contaminants got caught on the last application.

I start at 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 then the last 3 micromesh
... OR ... 320, 400, 600 then I do the 7 course of micromesh

There others who does it differently and they may have better finish []


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## dubdrvrkev (Nov 16, 2005)

I do a couple coats of thin CA, wait a day, then sand from 320-600 then MM all the way through. Then 3 or 4 coats of thick CA, wait a day, then sand all the way through again. After waiting another day I'll do the TSW or Renn, depending on my mood.[] As usual YMMV.


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## BogBean (Nov 16, 2005)

I sand 600 between coats. I was having problems with my CA finish until I started doing this. After final coat I sand 600 and then MM 1500 thur 12000. I use medium CA and apply the CA without the lathe running, I turn by hand when needed. I cut one of the fingers off of a latex glove and put a little CA on the end of finger and rub it in with the grain. Without the lathe running I can apply the CA very smooth. There are many ways to do a CA finish and this is what works for me...


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## Old Griz (Nov 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LAKingsFan_
> <br />Do you sand in between CA applications? Or do you apply several coats one after the other and then sand?
> 
> Also, what is the best grits to use for sanding to a great finish?
> ...



The answer to this depends on how smoothly you are able to apply the CA... I usually apply 3 coats of thick CA... but thin coats and very smoothly.... I allow to dry overnight before final sanding and finishing.
If you apply the CA smoothly you can usually start sanding at 600 grit then go through all the MicroMesh grits wet sanding for all grits... 
I finalize the CA finish with Turtle Wax White Polishing compound followed by Hut Plastic Polish or McGuires #7 or #9 antiswirl cream.
You should end up with a very high gloss finish...


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## ctEaglesc (Nov 16, 2005)

Slop on a good thick coat or three or five.
Sharpen skew, skew it off 
1-9 MM.
Remember a CA finish is extreemly clear.
ANY imperfections will show.


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## jkoehler (Nov 16, 2005)

Gee. Maybe i am doing it wrong by the sounds of it?
I slow the lathe down as slow as t will go. I apply a coat of CA.
Wait for it to dry. i sand it through 3000 ( waiting for MM  to arrive )
i repeat the above steps for 4 or 5 coats. 
After the final coat, I use the mylar paper from Lee Valley.
Then I apply a coat of Shellawax.


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## Dario (Nov 16, 2005)

sanding it between coats is a big waste of time as far as I am concerned...just because that is the most time consuming part and you are covering it afterwards anyway.  Reserve all the sanding to the last leg if possible 

As I posted earlier...IF a layer is contaminated with dirt, dust, etc...sand if off right away.  No amount of CA will cover it.


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## BogBean (Nov 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jkoehler_
> <br />Gee. Maybe i am doing it wrong by the sounds of it?



If it works for you it is not wrong...


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## jkoehler (Nov 16, 2005)

what if the coat isnt even?
what if it is rough, etc.? do you not sand then down?


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## Dario (Nov 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jkoehler_
> <br />what if the coat isnt even?
> what if it is rough, etc.? do you not sand then down?



Yes...later on.  

If it is really very uneven, use your skew as Eagle mentioned before sanding.  May take some practice but you'll save a lot of sand paper that way []


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## jkoehler (Nov 16, 2005)

Thank you for correcting my ways and leading me to the right path.
[:I]
I was used to the speed of finishing with Shellawax and was kinda frustrated by the the way I was doing the CA.
This should save me LOTS of sanding.
How long should i let it cure between applications? 
i have been just waiting till it is dry to touch.


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## Dario (Nov 16, 2005)

I usually re-apply another coat once it is dry to touch. BUT sand only after it properly cured.  Gummed up CA rings isn't pretty and PITA to clean.  Yes, I paid my tuition learning the CA finish []


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## jkoehler (Nov 16, 2005)

One more question, if I am allowed.
How do you tell if it is fully cured?

thank you for all your help. 

this just proves that you should learn one new thing every day.


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## Dario (Nov 16, 2005)

That I am not sure....I just wait about 30  minutes myself.  Griz and Kevin seems to wait overnight.  But then agian, I don't really build up my CA super thick.

Can't argue with the finish Griz attains so you'll be better off following his advise. []


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## dubdrvrkev (Nov 16, 2005)

I found the longer the better. When I get on a pen kick, I try to keep all four of my mandrels full. That way the day wait doesn't seem so long. I followed some advice from Lou and Griz to arrive at the day waiting period. I had got some cloudy finishes before that, but after the change they improved greatly. I keep an eye on some of my test mule pens and they still look good months later with daily use.


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## its_virgil (Nov 17, 2005)

One coat of thin CA slurry after sanding with 240-sometimes I use mylands cellulose sanding sealer--...sand off the thin CA..Sand 240-600 or so...Apply a coat of BLO (two or three drops tops) with bounty paper towel..using same towel apply a coat of med or thick---a thin coat. New paper towel, two drops of BLO onto the blank and apply another thin coat of med or thick and do this for four coats. No sanding between coats unless necessary..you'll know if it is necessary. After final coat sand with 1500MM, 1800MM, 2400MM and buff with tripoli, white diamonds, HUT ultra gloss, put on dark glasses, and final buff with TSW. This is all done in 10 minutes or less tops(the finish from CA slurry to TSW). 

There is no "corrrect" way to apply CA as a finish. Read how others do it...practice on scrap wood...develop your own technique...tweak it...make it work for you. I've taught many penturners how to apply CA finish and they all made it work the first time...and they were scared to even try it....Although watching and reading can be important, neither will replace rolling up your sleeves and using up a bottle of CA practicing. Once you "get it" you'll wonder how you ever thought you couldn't. It is a wonderful finish. But, not everyone likes the look of CA...and that's ok too!
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## chazmonro (Nov 18, 2005)

Don, I have just started using CA, I'm using the blo/ca meathod too... just did my first two test pens (oak scrap)... I don't have any MM so I just used 600, 1500,and 2000 sandpaper and then a piece of paper bag to polish. The finish looks good, but it doesn't shine like glass. Close, but not glass. The second pen I did, I used a bit of shellwax for a final step,  and it looked a little better. I want to get a buffing setup, but budget doesn't allow it right now, I think TSQ is the way to go. I'm just making a bunch of pens for christams (slimlines for now). Anyway, I follow almost the same procueedure as you except I use Viva paper towels. The only thing that bothers me is the fumes from the curing CA... stuff burns my nose. 

Chuck


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## its_virgil (Nov 18, 2005)

Chuck,
Set up a fan to blow the fumes away form you. I use my dust collector to evac the fumes. I don't buff on a buffing wheel...I use the paper towel to buff. If you live where there is a Harbor freight, Woodcraft, Lowes, HD, sears, or other such store then they will all sell buffing compounds. I use tripoli(brown) and white diamonds(white)..you may not find the same name but should find the an equal product. The white diamonds is white jewelwer's rouge. I think I've seen them with the same name...look close to the buffing wheels etc. I apply them by touching the bar to the spinning pen and move it from one end to another and buff it off with paper towel. Some will cringe when I say that...they did the other day...but that's how I apply it and it works fine for me. You can also make a buffer from a lamb's wool paint roller and some spindles to hold it on your lathe. Do a search and somewhere there are pictures...maybe in the articles section...maybe in someone's folder but I don't remember whose. Maybe they will chime in and answer. Well, that's how I buff, but I don't buff in the buff[].

Many penturners use McGuire's swirl remover to do a final shinny polish....#7 or #9 or something like that. Ole Grizz uses it so maybe a search on his name and McGuires will pull up some info.

Do a good turn daily!
Don


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