# Questions before building a photo box



## RSidetrack (Jan 10, 2012)

So I am going to be building a photo "tent" (I used box in the subject) since my last attempt at a tent got a bit destroyed when I was organizing things   So I have come up with a design and ready to build but I have one very critical question:

Will LED lighting be an issue?

Here are my thoughts on the design.  The frame itself will be built out of pine, not cardboard or PVC like my last one.  The side walls will be 1.5" thick and use 50/50 LED strip lights on the left, top and right hand sides.  Switches will control the number of strips for each section (left, top, right).  This way if a shadow for a photograph is desired for whatever reason it will be doable.  Then I will use frosted plexi to diffuse the light.

I think it is a great design, but don't know if LED lights will cause a problem.  I am actually a bit skeptical of even fluorescent as they cause green/purple hues in photos.

Thanks!


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## BSea (Jan 10, 2012)

I'm certainly no expert on photography, but I think LED will be fine as long as you get the correct color.  There are more than 1 color of white light.  Look for something that says "COOL WHITE".  If it has a color temp rating, look for something around 5500.  But anything between 5000 & 6000 will work.


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## terryf (Jan 10, 2012)

Fluorescent comes in daylight these days - fisah tank lights have a huge variety, check the local aquarium shop. They give loads of light and you can control the brightness with ease through quantity.

I would use aluminium angle and make the box out of frosted plexi and dump the 1.5inch walls. Fit the lighting on the outside - this way you can make use of the sun when its available. (given that your box must be portable for this)

As Bsea mentioned, youre looking for 5500 to 5800K. This can be done with LEDs but Ive never seen daylight LEDs in strip form.

I've seen a setup using 12v halogen car bulbs run off a deep cycle battery.

Post some pics of the progress, would be interesting to see your design.




oh and.....................good luck


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## Ted iin Michigan (Jan 10, 2012)

Rick - Will LED lighting be an issue? Depends on what type of camera you use and its capabilities. As long as you're using a digital (who isn't these days?) you should be ok. Most of them (some? many? all?) have settings for various light sources. If you're using film it's an entirely different story involving filters, etc.


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## RSidetrack (Jan 10, 2012)

Ted iin Michigan said:


> Rick - Will LED lighting be an issue? Depends on what type of camera you use and its capabilities. As long as you're using a digital (who isn't these days?) you should be ok. Most of them (some? many? all?) have settings for various light sources. If you're using film it's an entirely different story involving filters, etc.


Film, hmmm - I have not used film in a while - I do all of my B&W photography with it though.  However - I have all of the necessary filters for my film cameras :biggrin: 

I am using a DSLR so I do have all of the settings, I just don't like extreme conditions because it is very hard to get right.  If LEDs provide a good natural light then I should be all set.


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## RSidetrack (Jan 10, 2012)

terryf said:


> Fluorescent comes in daylight these days - fisah tank lights have a huge variety, check the local aquarium shop. They give loads of light and you can control the brightness with ease through quantity.
> 
> I would use aluminium angle and make the box out of frosted plexi and dump the 1.5inch walls. Fit the lighting on the outside - this way you can make use of the sun when its available. (given that your box must be portable for this)
> 
> ...



Almuminum angle is possible but this box will not be made to be portable.  I keep all of my stuff in my basement (half is office half is wood shop) and that is where the box will remain.  Sunlight will be out of the question so I still think I am going to go with the original plan, especially since LEDs are very skinny it shouldn't be too big of a problem.

Halogens - wow, that is some intense lighting


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## warreng8170 (Jan 10, 2012)

Keep in mind that depending on the type of camera you use, you can set your own custom white balance. Basically set up your tent with whatever light you have and use a "grey card" or a "white card" from any photograhy supplier and put those in the lit box. Take a photo with the card completely filling the frame and let the camera create its own adjustment. 
This makes it it less critical to have lights of exactly the right temp.


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## islandturner (Jan 10, 2012)

_


RSidetrack said:





terryf said:



			..... but this box will not be made to be portable.
		
Click to expand...



Click to expand...

_​


RSidetrack said:


> You don't have to get too complicated with these things. I built this one over a year ago...
> 
> Strobist: How To: DIY $10 Macro Photo Studio
> 
> ...


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## GrantH (Jan 10, 2012)

islandturner said:


> _
> 
> 
> RSidetrack said:
> ...


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## Mickey (Jan 11, 2012)

For the work involved (unless you just want to do it) these prices are pretty hard to beat and the tents work fine.

CowboyStudio Photography Lighting | Studio Equipment | Studio Accessories


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## RSidetrack (Jan 11, 2012)

Mickey said:


> For the work involved (unless you just want to do it) these prices are pretty hard to beat and the tents work fine.
> 
> CowboyStudio Photography Lighting | Studio Equipment | Studio Accessories



Thanks for the link but yes this is one of those things I want to do for the heck of it


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## TomWalton (Jan 30, 2012)

*Cheap and simple lighting*

Its easy to over-fuss the color temperature of your lighting.  If you want to mix flash and your fixed lighting, then you do have to get the color temperature up to 6000K to get uniform light. (Alternatively you can gel your flash to match the incandescent; but that's advanced nerdery.)

If you're not going to mix lighting types, plain old 2700K incandescents will work fine, provided you apply the proper white balance compensation (set "incandescent" white balance if you're shooting JPG, or just correct it in post-processing if you're shooting raw).

Incandescents can be preferable to some of the "daylight" fluorescents.  While many of them may be rated at 5500K, they have lousy spectra, full of strong lines (spikes of a single color) rather than the nice smooth spectrum of an incandescent.  If you don't know the pedigree/spectrum of a "daylight" fluorescent, you may be worse off in rendering color than with a properly compensated incandescent bulb.

So, don't spend the extra money if you don't need to.  It won't necessarily lead to a better result.

--Tom


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