# I'm going crazy



## Rchan63 (Feb 28, 2014)

I made my 1st double close end fountain pen(Jr Gent1), not my best work but very nice IMHO.
The issue is I cannot get the pen to lay down ink on the first stroke after it is capped for a few hours. I've adjusted many times and results are the same. So Being it is not a removable nib, I changed out the entire front section from a known working pen. After a while the result is the same, maybe it need a good cleaning. After a good cleaning and making sure it is writing again, same results. I'm running out of indeas Please HELP

Richard


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## Rchan63 (Mar 3, 2014)

No Advise from the fountain pen gurus


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## duncsuss (Mar 3, 2014)

Try different ink. Some inks run wetter than others; the cartridges supplied with kits are not high quality to begin with, and if they are old then they might be even thicker due to evaporation through the plastic (it happens.)


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## Rchan63 (Mar 3, 2014)

Thanks for the tip I'm using the cartridges from Private Reserves and I'm also using bottle ink from Private Reserves. Both with the same results.


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## duncsuss (Mar 3, 2014)

Try using the cap from another pen on this problem barrel & section (as an experiment).

If that fixes the problem, I suggest putting a splodge (technical term) of silicone caulk or epoxy glue or similar into the cap so that it seals the walls of the drilled hole.

You'll need to measure the depth of the drilled hole and figure out exactly how much clearance there is beyond the tip of the nib.

BTW, what material is the cap made from?


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## Rchan63 (Mar 3, 2014)

The pen is a double colse end made from Amboyna


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## duncsuss (Mar 3, 2014)

Rchan63 said:


> The pen is a double colse end made from Amboyna



Looks nice.

Ok, so my guess is the open end of the cap has got a brass tube glued into it, and the threaded coupler pressed into the tube end.

Down the far end of that tube you've got exposed wood. I think if you seal it things will improve.


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## Rchan63 (Mar 3, 2014)

Your correct about the pen cap.

I'll try your idea of swapping a cap from a reg pen and sse if that solves the problem.


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## Chatham PenWorks (Mar 4, 2014)

Why can't you remove the nib?


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## Rchan63 (Mar 4, 2014)

Chatham PenWorks said:


> Why can't you remove the nib?


 
The nib on a Jr Gent 1 is glued on.


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## Chatham PenWorks (Mar 4, 2014)

Rchan63 said:


> The nib on a Jr Gent 1 is glued on.



It's a little blurry, but I thought that was an upgraded, Heritance  nib in the pic.


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## Rchan63 (Mar 4, 2014)

That is a Heritance nib, it is from my known good pen. I screw it onto the closed end pen for testing(it's a whole front section and not just the nib), only to have it stop working after a few hours.


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## OKLAHOMAN (Mar 4, 2014)

Try something like Noodler's American Blue Eel, it's a lubricated ink and on some pens you'll find that they write better with a lubricated ink.


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## Rchan63 (Mar 6, 2014)

[/quote]

Looks nice.

Ok, so my guess is the open end of the cap has got a brass tube glued into it, and the threaded coupler pressed into the tube end.

Down the far end of that tube you've got exposed wood. I think if you seal it things will improve.[/quote]

Ding Dind Ding Ding We have a winner!!!!!!!! I used the cap from  another pen and screw it on for two days and it's still working. My guess is the unsealed portion from inside the close end cap is somehow evaporating or absorbing the moisture form the ink and preventing it from writing on first contact with the paper.
Now I just need to somehow seal the inside of the cap without buggering up the threads or making a entire mess inside. I'm thinking dripping medium CA and rotating around to spread the glue.
Thanks soooo much for your help. I would like to buy you coffee or  beverage of your choice.

Richard


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## duncsuss (Mar 6, 2014)

> Ding Dind Ding Ding ... I'm thinking dripping medium CA and rotating around to spread the glue.
> Thanks soooo much for your help. I would like to buy you coffee or  beverage of your choice.


Glad this seems to be the root of the problem. Your proposed fix should work -- as would dripping shellac in there, or lacquer, or any number of other things that form a water barrier.

I'd probably choose something I have the solvent for (e.g. shellac and denatured alcohol) so that when I get it on the threads I can clean it off :wink:

Are you in Framingham? Come along to the next meeting of A.R.T. in Lexington (March 20), bring the pen for show & tell and we'll have a drink after the meeting :biggrin:


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## Rchan63 (Mar 6, 2014)

I should be able to make it. Were you there during open turning in Bedford? If you were we proberly met. I jointed that day.


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## duncsuss (Mar 6, 2014)

Rchan63 said:


> I should be able to make it. Were you there during open turning in Bedford? If you were we proberly met. I jointed that day.



Yes ... I'm the guy who took your money and gave you a membership card! Look forward to meeting you again :biggrin:


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## Rchan63 (Mar 6, 2014)

It's good to put the user name with a face. See you in a few weeks.


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