# Decal Pens...



## grub32 (Mar 7, 2010)

I have been working on some advertisement pens for friends recently. I had a few people ask me how I make my pens with decals so I figured I would make another video to demo to process. I also show how I turn my pens completely in the video making these two pens.

First of all, thanks to Grizz for introducing me to testors decals. Before that I was using avery brand labels and being very creative. Testors works so much better.

Both pens are made from curly maple.

Let me know what you think...If you wanna see how I do it, go to

http://www.youtube.com/grub32

Start with Decal Pen, then 1,2,3 and 4. I had some issues after my tape was captured and held hostage by my canon.

Grub


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## Gary Max (Mar 7, 2010)

Those look great----color match and fit are perfect.


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## AceMrFixIt (Mar 7, 2010)

Thats kind of how I do it....


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## 65GTMustang (Mar 7, 2010)

I am in the process of watching the videos....I am halfway through the second portion.
I would liek to hear from you to get more information about this process.
Perhaps you have new ways or products that you suggest.
I am looking for ways to embelsih and or personalize without the expense of sending off for laser engraving - or investing in such equipment.
I hope to hear back from you.
Thanks


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## jbostian (Mar 7, 2010)

Great looking pen.

Jamie


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## Mr Vic (Mar 7, 2010)

I'm using theTestors paper also. However whebn it's gone I will noty restock. Check oout this site:  http://www.decalpaper.com/default.asp . 8.5"x11", 10 sheets for $11.50 as compared to the 6 5.5"x8" testor from Hobby Lobby..Oh and you don't need a special fixative...just clear Krylon. I originally got the site info on the Australian wood forum (the company has an Australian devision and site)


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## 65GTMustang (Mar 8, 2010)

Hello again...
Great video - Thank you for sharing.
I do have some other questions if you have the time to talk?
I am brand new to the site and still learning all the details to how it works.
So I am not sure how I can get in touch with you via regular email etc....
Hope to hear back from you
Thank you


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## JohnU (Mar 8, 2010)

Nice pens.  Thats some of the nicest curly maple I have ever seen.  Thanks for sharing your process.  Its always nice to see how someone else does it.  Much better than my process.  lol


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## turbowagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Thanks for taking the time to make the video, Grub.  Great job and nice pen!


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## RyanNJ (Mar 8, 2010)

i will be ordering some decal paper to do this exact thing i have been apprehensive because i did not know how. this video cleared all of that up for me


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## RyanNJ (Mar 8, 2010)

what is your preferred font


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## grub32 (Mar 8, 2010)

Thanks for looking...a bold font works best... I used the capitals font.

if there are any Q's, just email me or pm me. grub32@aol.com

Grub


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## Jgrden (Mar 8, 2010)

Wonderful tutelage but I could not find #2. Did I do something wrong?  I was very happy to see how you used the decal. I do it differently and your way is much easier.


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## mranum (Mar 8, 2010)

#2 is there, when you follow the link on the right side with the video choices showing there is a link below them that says "show all" or something like that.  Click on that.   Scroll down and you will see it.

Thanks for posting that, been wanting to see it done before I buy the stuff and try it.  Can I assume that if you didn't want to use CA for a finish you can put other finishes over the decal?  Like lacquer for example?


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## Grizz (Mar 9, 2010)

grub32 said:


> First of all, thanks to Grizz for introducing me to testors decals.
> 
> Grub



Wow, you do great with those.  So glad I could help in some way.  Keep it up!:handshake:


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## grub32 (Mar 9, 2010)

Yeah Grizz...They work better than my old method...Much better...

I have not tried putting them over lacquer, but I can't see anything chemically to stop it from sticking...I would assume that it would work over anything but oil. Oils need time to cure and it may not work on them.

Thanks for watching and enjoy the process.

Grub


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## Dustygoose (Mar 9, 2010)

Those look good and thanks for taking the time to put the videos together


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## AceMrFixIt (Mar 9, 2010)

grub32 said:


> Yeah Grizz...They work better than my old method...Much better...
> 
> I have not tried putting them over lacquer, but I can't see anything chemically to stop it from sticking...I would assume that it would work over anything but oil. Oils need time to cure and it may not work on them.
> 
> ...


 
I have used BLO on a pen and added a decal with no problems. Enjoyed the video.


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## grub32 (Mar 9, 2010)

Thanks for info Rick...I would have not tried it on my own...good to know.

Grub


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## Jim15 (Mar 9, 2010)

Thanks for the video Grub, may give me the push to try it myself.


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## sol92258 (Mar 9, 2010)

Grubb - thank you for making the videos.  I've had it in my mind to make a pen for my father-in-law, but not knowing exactly what I wanted to do.
Now I have several ideas on what to do to personalize it with a decal.

off-topic: Grizz, great blog!


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## RyanNJ (Mar 15, 2010)

Do you use a whole sheet of decal paper for 1 pen or how do you print so that you can get the most out of a sheet of decal paper


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## dexter0606 (Mar 15, 2010)

Ryan,
When I print my decal sheets I always print extra copies of the decal.  I find that every so often something will screw up and you'll wish you had printed more decals. It's easier than having to print another decal, wait a day for the inkjet to dry and then wait for the decal set to dry after that.
So if you print multiple copies along the first line of the sheet you can just trim that row off and reuse the remainder of the sheet. I keep doing this until the sheet is too short for my printer to grab.

Jeff


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## RyanNJ (Mar 15, 2010)

Ok thanks for the tip,
any specific program or will word work? Is there a good font size or does it depend on the barrel


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## Jgrden (Mar 15, 2010)

Went through the series again. Need to pick up some McQuires and Novus 2. Don't have a micro mesh set yet so will use wet/dry sand paper to 2000. I am applying this decal to acrylic. The others I have done were directly to the tube using crystal clear Alumilite. Can't wait to try this.


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## Freethinker (Mar 15, 2010)

grub32 said:


> I have been working on some advertisement pens for friends recently. I had a few people ask me how I make my pens with decals so I figured I would make another video to demo to process. I also show how I turn my pens completely in the video making these two pens.
> 
> First of all, thanks to Grizz for introducing me to testors decals. Before that I was using avery brand labels and being very creative. Testors works so much better.
> 
> ...



Wow.

I must be spending waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long on my sanding.

I am spending at least 6 or 7 times longer sanding (as grub does in the video) while the lathe is spinning, and maybe 10 times longer sanding with the grain.....also, I do a denatured alcohol wipedown with a fresh paper towel between every grit, not just after the 600.

Plus, I do that for every grit, from 220, 320, 400, 600, (and sometimes 1000 and 2000) of the standard sandpaper, THEN with the MicroMesh1800 or 2400 and on up through MicroMesh12000.

THEN, I start to apply the CA finish.........and after it is applied and dried I go through every step again.......(although I start mostly at 320 or 400). 

I think after watching this that I can cut back substantially on my sanding time.


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## lorbay (Mar 15, 2010)

Great videos Grub

Lin.


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## tbfoto (Mar 16, 2010)

I bought the "Testers" custom decal system tonight at my local "Hobby Lobby". I was disappointed to find out that in order to use my own images or my own messages with it I will need to "upgrade" (another $9.99) to what they call the Standard edition of the software. So basicly I spent $9.99 for this custom decal system that really does not allow me to do anything at all for my pens unless I spend another $9.99.

Tom


UPDATE: I wanted to add to this posting by saying that I figured out that all you have to do is use ANY photo editing software or word processor program to achieve these decals. Just size your paper to the same as the decal paper size.


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## RyanNJ (Mar 17, 2010)

i used MS word to make my decal. you can see it in a thread i posted yesterday


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## mranum (Mar 20, 2010)

A question for those who have done these for a while.  How visible is the decal material when you are finished?  I have done 2, on maple and walnut and on both the decal material is very noticeable.  Less on the lighter wood but still doesn't look good.

I used 3 coats of medium ca and the 5 more of thin ca then polished.


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## Jgrden (Mar 20, 2010)

Freethinker said:


> Wow.
> 
> I must be spending waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long on my sanding.
> 
> ...


It will give you more time to think.


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## Marc Phillips (Mar 20, 2010)

mranum said:


> A question for those who have done these for a while.  How visible is the decal material when you are finished?  I have done 2, on maple and walnut and on both the decal material is very noticeable.  Less on the lighter wood but still doesn't look good.
> 
> I used 3 coats of medium ca and the 5 more of thin ca then polished.


\

I have been making decal pens for a long time now... and the only way I know to hide the edge perfectly is to apply a tiny bead of CA (I use medium) around the decal and let it dry. It will be proud of the surface and need to be sanded down. Then another bead around where the previous bead was and repeat. Same idea behind drywall taping... a layer around the tape, then a wider one, then a wider one... then finish the entire pen. Comes out good that way.


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## mranum (Mar 20, 2010)

Marc Phillips said:


> \
> 
> I have been making decal pens for a long time now... and the only way I know to hide the edge perfectly is to apply a tiny bead of CA (I use medium) around the decal and let it dry. It will be proud of the surface and need to be sanded down. Then another bead around where the previous bead was and repeat. Same idea behind drywall taping... a layer around the tape, then a wider one, then a wider one... then finish the entire pen. Comes out good that way.



My problem is not just the edge but the entire decal. I used Testors paper.  It comes out looking like a translucent patch on the wood.  The ones I made were 3 lines.  name, city ,phone number.  I cut very close to the lettering and wet the wood before applying it and smoothed it out with paper towel and left to cure overnight.

Maybe the next one I try I will take some pictures, my past attempts are no longer around.


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## Grizz (Mar 20, 2010)

sol92258 said:


> Grubb - thank you for making the videos.  I've had it in my mind to make a pen for my father-in-law, but not knowing exactly what I wanted to do.
> Now I have several ideas on what to do to personalize it with a decal.
> 
> off-topic: Grizz, great blog!



Thank you!


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## Grizz (Mar 20, 2010)

mranum said:


> A question for those who have done these for a while.  How visible is the decal material when you are finished?  I have done 2, on maple and walnut and on both the decal material is very noticeable.  Less on the lighter wood but still doesn't look good.
> 
> I used 3 coats of medium ca and the 5 more of thin ca then polished.



I can't see the ones I do ... at all.


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## philb (Mar 21, 2010)

Nice set of videos!

One question, do you put on a ca finish before the decal, then decal and ca finish over the top? Im either missing a video or just missed something. As in the end of one video is sanded smooth wood, but at the beginning of the next video it looks glossy beofre you apply the decal? 

PHIL


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## AceMrFixIt (Mar 21, 2010)

Marc Phillips said:


> \
> 
> I have been making decal pens for a long time now... and the only way I know to hide the edge perfectly is to apply a tiny bead of CA (I use medium) around the decal and let it dry. It will be proud of the surface and need to be sanded down. Then another bead around where the previous bead was and repeat. Same idea behind drywall taping... a layer around the tape, then a wider one, then a wider one... then finish the entire pen. Comes out good that way.


 
I use a coat of ca to seal the wood prior to the decal or the wood will draw out the water. If I let it dry 12-24 hours it sticks pretty good. I also use medium ca to seal it. While it is spinning I drop the ca on the tube and spread it with my finger in a rubber glove.


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## markgum (Mar 21, 2010)

thanks for the video. Gives me more ideas,  now if I can just get more time in the day.


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## Marc Phillips (Mar 21, 2010)

Like Grizz and the Chief said, I can't see my decals at all. A coat or two under to seal the wood, then I put a "bead" or two around the edges if I need to, then coat the entire pen X number of times, sanding with 1800 MM between coats just to make sure if sticks.


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## mranum (Mar 21, 2010)

Well I'll have to try a few more then.  I did put down several coats of ca first then and micromeshed it so I had a super smooth surface. Applied the decal, smoothing out any wrinkles. The next day followed with quite a few coats of ca again.  I've used thin and what I think is medium, Gorilla super glue.  I don't have an issue with a hard edge around it, just the visible decal itself.

I'll keep at it.


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## tbfoto (Mar 21, 2010)

Can anyone tell me if they put decals on acrylic as well, and if so do you seal it with ca the same as wood?

Tom


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## AceMrFixIt (Mar 21, 2010)

tbfoto said:


> Can anyone tell me if they put decals on acrylic as well, and if so do you seal it with ca the same as wood?
> 
> Tom


 
I have put them on acrylic and corian, I dont seal either one, they wont suck out the water like wood.


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## tbfoto (Mar 21, 2010)

AceMrFixIt said:


> I have put them on acrylic and corian, I dont seal either one, they wont suck out the water like wood.


 

Well...I'm thinking that if not sealed then the decal could be rubbed off.


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## Rmartin (Mar 21, 2010)

Not that I'm cheap or anything, but how do reuse the paper? I can see using one sheet to print 50  labels for pens, but can you print just one label at a time without wasting the whole sheet?


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## dexter0606 (Mar 21, 2010)

> Can anyone tell me if they put decals on acrylic as well, and if so do you seal it with ca the same as wood?


 
You definitely need to apply CA over the top of the decal otherwise there is no protection to the decal whatsoever. You don't need to seal the surface under the decal.Not that I'm cheap or anything, but how do reuse the paper? I can see using one sheet to print 50 labels for pens, but can you print just one label at a time without wasting the whole sheet? Today 04:06 PM



> Not that I'm cheap or anything, but how do reuse the paper? I can see using one sheet to print 50 labels for pens, but can you print just one label at a time without wasting the whole sheet?


 
I usually just cut the printed decal in a strip from the top of the sheet and reuse the sheet until my printer won't feed it any longer.

Jeff


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## Marc Phillips (Mar 21, 2010)

I do the same as Jeff.... I position the decal as far up on the paper as it will go, then trim say 1/2" with a paper cutter .... as close to the decal as possible ... then I have a nice clean edge for the printer to pick up when I print the next decal. 

One of the biggest problems I have is sealing the decal on an acrylic pen... gotta put a lot of coats of CA on before even thinking about sanding it at all...


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## dexter0606 (Mar 21, 2010)

Marc
I've had my share of problems with sanding off my decals. Now I just use my buffer.

Jeff


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