# snake skin pens



## paulg (Dec 14, 2004)

Anyone have any instructions on how to make snake skin pens?

Paul


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## PenWorks (Dec 14, 2004)

I would do it like a veneer. Undercut the blank about a 1/32 or 1/16 depending on the thickness of the snake skin, then have your messure skin layed out and use contact cement to apply. I have always wanted to make some, but never tanned the rattle snakes I bagged or I should say my daughter has bagged, she waisted three this year on our property. What can I say, she had a good teacher. Anthony


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## cigarman (Dec 14, 2004)

Paul
I have only made one snake skin pen (see my album) but the way I did it was I made the pen as normal with  plain walnut stock then took some snake skin that had been drying for about a week and wraped it around the wood using super glue to to adhere it. after it dried I took a rag and very carefully wiped more ca on to keep the scales from coming off.  use mm to smooth and lightly polish.  I am sure there are other ways but this worked for me.  Good luck and show us a picture when you are thru.


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## Fred in NC (Dec 14, 2004)

Paul, how thick are the snake skins?  Thanks.


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## paulg (Dec 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Fred in NC_
> <br />Paul, how thick are the snake skins?  Thanks.



I haven't bought any yet.  Wanted to have an idea of what I was doing before I got them.

P


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## its_virgil (Dec 14, 2004)

Glue the skin on the tube(s)  (I use CA), cast in polyester resin (can be bought at hobby stores but is expensive or look at http://www.artstuf.com), turn and polish. Take a look in my photo album for one of my snake skin pens. 
Also, Ryan at woodturningz has the skins already cast into blanks using polyester resin and they are ready to turn. good luck.
Do a good turn daily!
Don



> _Originally posted by paulg_
> <br />
> Anyone have any instructions on how to make snake skin pens?
> 
> Paul


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## Scott (Dec 14, 2004)

Hi Paul,

I have not done it, but I can tell you how it is done.

Rough up your brass tubes and glue the snakeskin to the tubes.  You can overlap the edge just a little bit.  Then suspend the tube (with snakeskin) in whatever mold you are using, mix up your polyester resin, and pour it into the mold.  After the resin has cured, turn it down on the lathe to whatever shape you need, and assemble the pen.  It is about this simple.

There are lots of other things you can cast inside resin as well.  I've seen ribbons, pictures, leaves - pretty much anything you can think of.  Good Luck, and show us the results.

Scott.


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## PenWorks (Dec 14, 2004)

Those are good ideas. But part of the phobia of having a snake skin pen is to feel the skin. I would prefer having it ontop, like this.


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## Fred in NC (Dec 14, 2004)

Anthony, I made a lizzard pen last year.  One thing that bugs me is that the skin can shrink and the joint open up.  I am not sure what the answer is.  Also, not totally sure about adhesives for leather.


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## PenWorks (Dec 14, 2004)

The Enduro finish always pops up around here. I would think with the poly finish, it would greatly reduce the chances of shrinking or coming apart. If the skin was on top, you would definately have to have some type of solid finish. Anthony


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## PenWorks (Dec 14, 2004)

Sorry, I could not resist [}] How many pens could this guy have made [?] Don't let my daughter's sweet 16 smile fool you, she can knock bowling pins off a table with her .45 with the best of you. []
This prize was a rattler taken with her Styer .17 air pistol.

Don, I took a look at your snake pen, very nice. I visulized somethining different when you explained the technique, pretty cool. Anthony


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## Randy_ (Dec 14, 2004)

Anthony:

You do nice work.....pens and otherwise!!![]


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## Old Griz (Dec 14, 2004)

Anthony, bet there is no problem with dishonorable boyfriends around that little girl.. LOL... 
Mine is only 6, but she already has asked me when she is going to be old enough to shoot with me... Don't you just love it..


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## Bev Polmanteer (Dec 14, 2004)

Cigarman's instructions are exactly how I do mine.  See my album. Folks like the feel of the skin!


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## PenWorks (Dec 14, 2004)

So that's going to be on my list for next year, make a snake skin pen, to bad all the rattlers are sleeping [}] Bev, I think I will give it a try like  cigarman, I want to feel the skin.

Tom, the word boyfriend doen't exist in our house, since she can't date till she's 18.I keep telling her, all her friends are welcome at the house, both girls & boys, but haven't seen one boy. I think she's afraid me and her 2 brothers would skin him. Almost time to break out the .22's with your daughter.

Randy, glad she looks like her mother [] Anthony


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## woodspinner (Dec 15, 2004)

Last rattler I had was in my shop under a work bench.   After he went through my 3hp vac system there were no pieces big enough to cover a pen.   That 4" hose sucked him up like a piece of jelly.   

Good turning and be safe
Bill in Casa Grande, AZ.


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## PenWorks (Dec 15, 2004)

Good one Bill, bet that made one heck of a thump. I don't move to much in my shop with out first tapping it or moving it with something other than my hand. First thing I think of, is a scorpion is waiting to tag me, then a snake. The down side to us desert dwellers. Anthony


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## Randy_ (Dec 15, 2004)

> _Originally posted by penworks_<br />.....Randy, glad she looks like her mother....


I'll bet she is, too!!!


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## jkirkb94 (Dec 15, 2004)

Anthony, my little princess 16 y.o. would have enough trouble looking at that picture of your daughter with the snake much less hold one![:X]  She does have her own gun (22cal)but unfortunately lost interest in shooting years ago.[] I've told my daughter that daddy is getting out the guns to clean when the boys come over.[]  Kirk[8D]


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## PenWorks (Dec 18, 2004)

Does any body know of a place to buy tanned snake skins reasonable? Anthony


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## Tom McMillan (Dec 18, 2004)

Hi Anthony

I just did a brief search and found the site of Snake Den Specialties, apparently in South Dakota.  He had tanned prairie rattlesnake skins for from $15 to $28 about 3-4 foot lengths.  The website was:  www.sdsnake.com/SnDen.htm


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## PenWorks (Dec 18, 2004)

Hey, thanks Tom, just the ticket I needed. Anthony


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## Fred in NC (Dec 18, 2004)

What is Anthony up to ?


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## its_virgil (Dec 18, 2004)

I have found that the smaller snakes have skin patterns that are much smaller and better for pens than the larger snake skins. I try to find skins under 2 ft in length. The 6 foot skins 6 inches wide are imnpressive, but I don't like them for pens. Google "Bayou Bob" . He sells everything rattlesnake. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## PenWorks (Dec 18, 2004)

Nothing Fred, I never, ever, ever,  open my office or pen shop on a Saturday. But I thought just maybe someone would be doing last minute shopping. I guess they are all at the mall, because I have not had one person come in for the past 2 hours. Anthony  Oh yeh, just keep watching..........


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## Fred in NC (Dec 18, 2004)

I am all eyes, Anthony !


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## Tom McMillan (Dec 18, 2004)

Better watch out Fred---Anthony might think yer looking through snake-eyes and make a visit to NC.


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## Fred in NC (Dec 18, 2004)

Hehe Tom!  Well, he is welcome to visit, and for that matter, any one of my friends here!


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## PenWorks (Dec 18, 2004)

Rest assured Fred, I won't be gunning for you anytime soon. I had a nice chat with Steve, from the link Tom gave me. He is sending me out some material and he educated me on his tanning process. We will see what happens. At least I will be able to tan my own skins this spring when the critters awake.  Anthony


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## Gary Max (Dec 18, 2004)

It would be a great chance for you Anthony---you could drop the calendar off on the way.


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## Darley (Dec 18, 2004)

Good Idea Fred to stabelized the snake just stick the nid in is mouth, you can make 60 pens in an hour @ $ 55.00 each ..geee you rich man []

Serge


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## PenWorks (Dec 18, 2004)

We might have to ease up on this conversation, Animal protective services, Game & Fish & Wild life protection agencies will be down our back. []  Next thing you know, snakes will be extinct and there will be a world glut of pen blanks on the market.  Anthony[]


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## Fred in NC (Dec 18, 2004)

OK, Anthony, let's switch to ostrich legs then. [8D]


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## PenWorks (Dec 19, 2004)

Doug, Virgil said Ryan at woodturninz had them. Anthony


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## GregMuller (Dec 19, 2004)

Scott,
I am interested in the process you described were you can cast different items such as ribbons etc in resin. Do you have pictures and do you glue the item to the tube as you described with the snake skin???


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## Fred in NC (Dec 19, 2004)

Greg, there are links to two articles in our home page that are a good starting point.  

Let me see how I can explain this...

If you glue anything to the tube, and then cast with a clear material around it, and turn and polish it, the rounded clear resin will act as a MAGNIFIER.  Whatever is glued to the tube will look bigger and closer to the surface of the barrel.

Is that CLEAR ?


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## Rifleman1776 (Dec 19, 2004)

My first post after joining was to ask how to make a rattlesnake skin pen. I used 'rattlesnake' in the subject. Don't know where that post went. Must have go swallowed up in cyberspace. But y'all have well described the process under the 'snakeskin' topic line. Some really outstanding pens there. I am envious. My personal tastes keep me away from most plastics. But the process for casting resin over a skin, or other item opens unlimited possibilities for creativity. I may have to swallow my usual "if you want plastic, go to Wal-Mart" statements.


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## Fred in NC (Dec 19, 2004)

Of course, there is more than one approach to making leather pens. One is casting, the other simply covering the barrel with leather.  Each has its own place, and the result is different.


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## PenWorks (Dec 20, 2004)

Rifleman, your post started under "polls & surveys" I don't know how you got there, but it is there. I have tried not to repsond to it under that heading, but there is a thread there.


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## woodpens (Dec 21, 2004)

The pen below was made by Richard Kleinhenz and is for sale in the Pen Gallery at Woodpens.com. Does anyone know where these blanks can be purchased besides Ryan?




<br />


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## pssmith (Dec 22, 2004)

Anthony,

You've done what I hope would happen with my little 2 1/2 year old - Maintain her mother's beauty but carry about a subtle sense of "don't worry about my father cleaning his Glock in the back shop" but rather "worry about you imitating this headless snake if you don't watch (with innocent, daddy's-girl smile)"[]


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## Bev Polmanteer (Dec 22, 2004)

Jim, that doesn't even come close to looking like snakeskin!


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## cigarman (Dec 22, 2004)

I made my leather pen by getting some three quarter inch dia. leather disks about one quarter inch thick and gluing them togeather.  I then drilled and prepared them just as I would a wood  blank.   I used a slim line kit with a euro. band 

<b>Image Insert:</b><br />


<br />


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## woodpens (Dec 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Bev Polmanteer_
> <br />Jim, that doesn't even come close to looking like snakeskin!



Bev,
We'll have to take that up with the snake who is now a writing stick. []


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## PenWorks (Dec 27, 2004)

Okay, so I couldn't wait till the first of the year to make my snake pen. I am trying several attempts, in case some don't make it. The first five barrells from the left, have the skins glue over the tube. I am going to try and cast them in resin tonight. Several have said this is easy. Doesn't seam easy to me, when you never did any casting.

The barrel on the right, is a pen completed I am going to post. I glue the skin over an undersize cut blank, and put about 10 coats of poly over it. That should hold it in place. If it doesn't, I can always shoot it. [] I was comfortable making it this way, as it is simular to veneering which I done before.  Anthony




<br />


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## PenWorks (Dec 31, 2004)

Here is a close up of the finshed pen with glued on skin over an oak barrel vs a skin under the resin casting. The glued on skin has developed some type of reaction as you can see some reddish brown lines.   Don't know why, I am thinking maybe sanding with some dirty MM ? Even though the casting went bad, I was able to turn a little of it, to see what the results would be. The resin magnifies the skin real nice and definately seals it from any damage to the skin.


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## PenWorks (Jan 5, 2005)

SAVE YOUR MONEY! Just tried to glue the died cobra skins to tubes, the CA reacted with the skin or dye and ruined it. You can try another type glue, maybe contact cement or something else, but CA won't work. If you want to try, do it on a test spot of the skin, before you take the time and do all the cutting. I know someone else bought the skins from Implora as well.  Anthony


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## DCBluesman (Jan 5, 2005)

What was ruined, Anthony?  The dye?  The scales?  Can you post a picture?


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## Fred in NC (Jan 5, 2005)

When I bought lizzard (to make Lizzy, an Americana BP) the seller told me to use carpenter's glue.  I glued the skin directly to the bottom tube, and to wood on the upper tube, with Titebond II. Several months later, when I sold the pen,  it was still holding up good.  The glue did not penetrate the leather much, but seemed to hold well. The color was not affected. 

I did not put any finish on the leather, just some clear SHOE polish.


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## PenWorks (Jan 5, 2005)

Lou, I will try tomarrow, my camera is at the office and I have to much glue stuck to my fingers. I can't even feel them typing. The skins were more like real thin finished leather, the scales were very smooth. They skins are processed to make other things such as wallets and stuff. As soon as the CA hit the skin it totally change the color, darkened it and made it real blotchy. I am going to try some other glues, but not tonight, still have to go down & finsh my rattle snake glue ups, just came up for some caffine and a break.  Anthony

Fred I am honored to speak to you , 1002 posts, and still have plenty of hot air left. LOL I will try the carpenters glue, have plenty of that, and I have to find my contact cement, use to do allot of veneering, but not for some time. I'm sure it is around.


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## PenWorks (Jan 5, 2005)

Good call Fred, the carpenters glue worked fine. You and Lizzy allready had it figured out. I used the carpenters glue to glue the cobra skins to the brass tube and no staining to the skin. It doesn't have to hold that good, because I am going to cast these in resin. At least try to cast again.  Anthony


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## Gary Max (Jan 5, 2005)

If you bought yourself some of those fine Blue gloves you could type faster.


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## penhead (Jan 5, 2005)

What are the 'blue' gloves...I just bought some nitril gloves and they are purple.

Same thing just different color..??

JohnPayton


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## Fred in NC (Jan 5, 2005)

Glad it helped, Anthony!   I have some assorted lizzard scrap, and a complete ostrich leg skin, for my upcoming Ozzie pen.  I will probably get some snake when I get a chance.  

I am very curious to see what the seam looks like when you are done, Anthony.  When I did the Lizzie, the Titebond color blended well with the leather color.  I cleaned and tooled the seam a bit, and it looked fine, but you could always see it of course.


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## PenWorks (Jan 5, 2005)

Here is the phot of CA glue on the cobra skins, note how it darkened and stained the skin, right behind the spots I applied carpenters gloe, not staining, the barrel laying in the skin was applied with carpenters glue, looks as natural as the skin.  Thanks Fred.

Something about gloves I can't get use to. I just have to have junk all over my hands when I make something. That's why I liked pottery for such a long time.  Where was Demi, when I needed her.    Anthony


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## Fred in NC (Jan 5, 2005)

Thanks for posting it, and glad it worked, Anthony! I am curious to see the seam side.  Would you mind posting a pic? 

Anthony, I worked in graphic arts for almost 25 yrs.  That means printing.  Working with printing presses and ink is a very dirty job. Most printers have badly stained fingers and nails.  I got used to wearing gloves almost from the beginning.  My coworkers chided me about it all the time, they said my hands looked like a woman's. Of course, women had a different opinion ....

It is a matter of getting used to it.  Properly fitting gloves are a must.  Talcum powder inside helps a lot.  I just hate the glue in my fingers!


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## wayneis (Jan 5, 2005)

Anthony something is strange here, your cobra does not look anything at all like the photo's of cobra that Rich K. just posted.  I wonder who has the wrong stuff.  Check out the photo's that Rich put up they really are nice.

Wayne


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## wpenm (Jan 5, 2005)

I would like to see the seam also. That seems to me would be the hardest part.


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## PenWorks (Jan 5, 2005)

Wayne, if you look at the scales, they are the same, mine are died skins. The trick is to not use the long part of the scales. Rich did have some nice ones, I still think the rattlers look the best.
check this link out to all these skins. 

http://implora.com/products.asp?category=Snake+Skin&subcategory=Leather+Hides

Anthony


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## Efletche (Jan 5, 2005)

Anthony, am I correct to assume that you were using CA to glue the skin directly to the brass tube and the CA stain is from the under side of the skin? Wonder what would happen if I used that carpenters glue to stick the skin to a narrowly turned blank and did the CA on the outer side of the skin????? I wonder if it would stain this way too or would the scales protect the surface a bit better?


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## PenWorks (Jan 5, 2005)

Your right Ed, the stains are from the underside. Since the top of the skin is somewhat finished, I don't know if it would stain. I would think so. Only one way to find out.........Anthony


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## wayneis (Jan 6, 2005)

Anthony I thought that Rich's pen that is black with the white sposts was cobra.  That doesn't look at all like what you show here.  His rattler is pretty nice also.

Wayne


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## PenWorks (Jan 6, 2005)

I hope I'm saving you guys time & money. [] 

Eddie, I put some CA on the outside of the skin, same results,still discolored.

Cast the cobra skins in resen, they turned dark brown. (another bad option)

Oh well, if I ever get another snake pen, it;s gonna be pretty expensive. []

Anthony


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## PenWorks (Jan 6, 2005)

Wayne, the scales are fairly simular. If you look at the yellow skin that is stained from the CA, it seperates the scales. I am sure Rich used a higher grade natural skin. I am sure cobra skins vary greatly, just like rattle snake skins do and people skins. The ones I got where the cheap scraps that cost 5.00 apiece. I think they were from the high mileage snakes.

Rich has some real nice ones, I like the faceted Baron with the cut in center ring. That was pretty choice. Oh well, I guess I'll make my way down to the shop and start my casting project, or at least read about all the crap I got today to do the casting.,  Anthony


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## PenWorks (Jan 31, 2005)

I finally finished a snake pen that is acceptable to be sold. I was having the same casting problems using a cylinder type mold, as others. Hard to center, drying of the resin, sticking, you name it, I had it.

I was able to cast them in a flat mold, when I finally got a good cast, I ended up scrapping the barrel because as Alice stated earlier today, the resin shrinks, didn't know that at the time and the sanding dust was able to get between the cast and the skin. (note the foggy barrel. 

To remedy this, I sealed the ends of the barrels about 5 different times during cutting, turning & sanding. It still was able to get into the Baron, which is not accetable, and my daughter now owns it as a trophy. 

The Statesman did come out good, But if you look close, there is just a slight dust in the cast.  

The Ligero is comparing a skin glued over a wood barrel vs the skin in a cast. As to which is better. They both have +/- 

The skin really looks good under the cast, but you don't have the feel of holding a snake pen. The Ligero feels better in your hand even with all the Enduro coats over it.

I am not going to be making allot of these, Just something I had to do.  Anthony


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## Gary (Jan 31, 2005)

Those are awsome, Anthony! If you don't want to make a lot of them then you better not show too many of them, because a lot of folks will want them.



> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...I am not going to be making allot of these, Just something I had to do.  Anthony


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## C_Ludwigsen (Jan 31, 2005)

Talk about venomous words!!!  Anthony, those look awesome!  You should email those pics to the company selling $1000 pens... see if they ... *bite* []  (sorry for the BAD pun)


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## elody21 (Jan 31, 2005)

Yes, the clouding is exactly what happened to me. Do you think that if it skin is cleaned with something that will evaporate like denatured alcohol prior to casting it would prevent the clouding??



> _Originally posted by penworks_
> <br />I finally finished a snake pen that is acceptable to be sold. I was having the same casting problems using a cylinder type mold, as others. Hard to center, drying of the resin, sticking, you name it, I had it.
> 
> I was able to cast them in a flat mold, when I finally got a good cast, I ended up scrapping the barrel because as Alice stated earlier today, the resin shrinks, didn't know that at the time and the sanding dust was able to get between the cast and the skin. (note the foggy barrel.
> ...


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## PenWorks (Jan 31, 2005)

Alice, the clouding is coming in between the cast and the skin after you start cutting and sanding. It has nothing to do with the casting. As soon as I removed the blanks I tried to seal the end of the barrels with CA. This helped. I kept doing it after every step. It still managed to get into the Baron. I am also assuming, the CA entering under the resin cast, is drying clear. I don't think it would fog, but maybe that is what I am seeing in the Statesmen, Really don;t know.


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## elody21 (Jan 31, 2005)

In my case on the snake skin, the clouding was there before I did any turning, infact I never got to that step. When I got up in the morning after letting the fresh casting sit, it was cloudy. I had another one that was fine at first but got cloudy after about 4 days.???


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## Tom McMillan (Jan 31, 2005)

Interesting pens---look pretty cool for those that "like" snakeskins!!


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## elody21 (Jan 31, 2005)

The snake skin that I have is brown and an unknown species from the phillipines. As soon as I put CA glue on the back of the skin it turned VERY dark brown, almost black??!! Does this happen with rattlesnake??


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## PenWorks (Jan 31, 2005)

Alice, sounds like you have the cobra skins that are tanned & processed. go back a page or two on this thresd and see if the examples I gave are what you bought. That happend to me as well with those skins. I tried to tell you to save your money. The yellow one turned completely brown when I casted it.

Anthony


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## elody21 (Jan 31, 2005)

I went back and read all of the posts. I do not believe these are cobra. They are just plain brown with no markings. I got them really cheap $4.00. I wanted to use them to try the whole thing out. I am glad that I did! I have one mor idea I am going to try before giving up. I'll let you know. AC


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## PenPauli (Jan 31, 2005)

I also tried to make a rattle snakeskin pen and I did just glue it to the tube with no problem.  I coated it with several coats of 
ca and I was really happy with the results. However I could not get it off the mandrel. It took about an hour of cutting between the
bushings with a razor and alot of hammering.  I finally got it off 
but ruined my bushings, oh well they are cheap.  I put the pen 
together and showed the family eveyone loved it.  Now for the bad part,  I just tried it and it does not twist now it is a cigar pen 
and I must have damaged the tube any suggestions to try and repair it.  Sorry I am droning on but I lovd the pen and would hate to trash it.


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## PenPauli (Jan 31, 2005)

One more thing,  it worked fine when I took it off the lathe.  Just twisted and the ink went in and out smoothly?  What gives?


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## PenWorks (Jan 31, 2005)

Paul, the hammer thing could have something to do with it [] I thought hammers were for fixing engines []

But if you said you put it together, then I am assuming all the pieces went together correctly and the press parts went in.  So I don't know where the problem could be. Does it twist at all, or frozen?

Anthony


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## JimGo (Jan 31, 2005)

Anthony, would you be kind enough to describe the process you used to cast the skins?  I'm thinking of doing a pen with stingray skin, and may try one cast and one glued with CA on the outside (the skin is black, so hopefully any discolorations won't show TOO badly).


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## PenWorks (Feb 1, 2005)

Jim, I used Ca to glue the skin on the brass tube. Try a couple of drops on a test piece to see if it reacts to the skin. If it does, then use carpenters glue.
Cast your covered tubes in clear polyesters resin in a flat mold. That is tougher than it sounds. You have to secure them to keep from floating around. I used base wax plugs and potatoes to keep the resin out of the tubes. Before you cut them, seal the ends with CA. Dry sand only all the way to 1200MM, NO WATER! then buff, that's it in a nut shell. Good Luck. Anthony


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## JimGo (Feb 1, 2005)

Thanks Anthony!


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## PenPauli (Feb 2, 2005)

Anthony,

The pen does twist smoothly if I don't push the two
halves together all the way.  Now I'm thinking maybe
there is still glue in the tube in the top half.  I
forgot to clear it out when I glued the pen to the 
bushings.  I'll try to find a way to clean out the
glue in the tube but the pen is already together and
I would hate to damage the skin by trying to take it
apart.  

Thanks for any opinion you may have


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## PenWorks (Apr 14, 2005)

Here are some turnings I did last night in between chatting. Seems like everytime Don & I get together we talk snakes & casting, well here are some pics of the process.

One photo shows from the the casting block, rounded & finished, not bufffed.

The other is rounded, final cut, sand to 600


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## JimGo (Apr 14, 2005)

Thanks Anthony!

What do you use to cut the skins?  I tried cutting the stingray the other day with my kitchen shears, but the bumps on the skin make it very difficult to cut straight (so I get a clean edge).  I was thinking of trying a paper cutter (one of those guilloteen-type things) or some pruning shears, but I'm open to other ideas, too!


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## driften (Apr 14, 2005)

I assume it would be the same process with ray skin and others? I was looking at the stylus magazine and there were a lot of stingray cover pens.


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## PenWorks (Apr 14, 2005)

Jim, we are not shearing sheep here [] Put the siccors down before you hurt yourself [] I use a razor blade, a steal rule and a hard surface for straight clean cuts.

Carefull, not all skins react well with glues and resin, my cobra skins were all discolored by CA and then turned dark brown when they got hit with the resin. Did not work at all.


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## JimGo (Apr 14, 2005)

lol...thanks Anthony.  I tried it with a razor, but the bumps made the blade wobble too much (there are some BIG bumps!), that's why I thought of the paper cutter.  Maybe I'll give the razor another try, too.  I tried CA on it, and it will work on the back without much of a problem.  BUT, if I get any on the front, it will dry it out and form that white powdery stuff that is typical of CA.  I have some black CA, and that was better, but still didn't look nice.  I also tried carpenter's glue, and that worked the best.  No visible gunk on the surface of the skin, wipes off easily (while wet) in case some oozes out by accident, and it sets up fairly fast (unlike Gorilla glue, which I also tried).  

I found that winding a long strip around the tube, rather than wrapping it, tended to produce a less visible line than if I tried to cut it wide enough.  Saw this in someone's bluejean pen on here (can't remember whose it was, but may have been yours or Frank's, IIRC).  Plus, measuring the skin so it wrapped around the tube EXACTLY was, to say the least, very difficult.  I also painted the tubes and the sides of the skin black using a Sharpie, which helps with any small gaps.

My other quandry is how to make the backbone section fit onto a slimline pen.  The pen is for my mother for Mother's day, and I'd really like to include the backbone (really pretty, if you haven't seen one) but that section on the skin I have is both too wide and too long.  If only she hadn't specifically ASKED for a slimline!

Driften, I'll have to see if I can find a copy of Stylus...might give me some good inspiration.


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## driften (Apr 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JimGo_
> <br />
> Driften, I'll have to see if I can find a copy of Stylus...might give me some good inspiration.



What I saw was diffrent colored stingray mostly with Sterling Silver. In many of the cases Only the cap had stingray on it with all of the rest made out of Sterling. 

I look forward to seeing your pen!


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## JimGo (Apr 14, 2005)

Thanks Jeff!  That's interesting, because if they're using a capped pen, it means it is likely fairly large, which makes it possible to use the backbone I mentioned.  The sterling on the bottom would be interesting, too; I bet it really emphasizes the skin.

I tried to do an online search for pictures like those you described, but I can't find any of stingray skinned pens!  At least I know I'm off in a direction where few(er) have ventured!  Hope to get to these this weekend, if I can make it to Harbor Freight early enough on Saturday (gotta cast 'em on Sunday).  Will post the pics when I'm done.


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## JimGo (Apr 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JimGo_
> <br />Thanks Jeff!  That's interesting, because if they're using a capped pen, it means it is likely fairly large, which makes it possible to use the backbone I mentioned.  The sterling on the bottom would be interesting, too; I bet it really emphasizes the skin.
> 
> I tried to do an online search for pictures like those you described, but I can't find any of stingray skinned pens!  At least I know I'm off in a direction where few(er) have ventured!  Hope to get to these this weekend, if I can make it to Harbor Freight early enough on Saturday (gotta cast 'em on Sunday).  Will post the pics when I'm done.
> ...


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