# Problems finishing Ebony



## Carl Fisher (Oct 7, 2011)

So I turned a full ebony pen for the first time. I've used it as parts of segments and not had a problem, but the full blank gave me FITS.

I've sanded and refinished this pen twice now and I just can't get a finish I'm happy with.  I used Acetone to clean the surface and dry it and then CA over the top.  I'm out of accelerator so I used CA/BLO but I'm thinking maybe the combination of the BLO and the oils from the wood hurt me in this case? I just can't seem to get an even glass smooth finish on it no matter how many coats I used or how much sanding/polishing I did.

I didn't clean the pen before these pics...sorry about the finger prints but looking for any ideas for the next time?


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## Don Wade (Oct 7, 2011)

ebony is streaky and difficult


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## BSea (Oct 7, 2011)

I feel your pain.  I made an ebony pen once . . . . . . . . _*once*_. (Think Johnny Dangerously)

I've even had a few segments that gave me fits too.  But when it works, there is nothing nicer.  So I keep using it for accents.

BTW, I think as a group, we obsess over the fit & finish of pens a little to much sometimes.  We see all the little flaws, and they drive us nuts.  Others just see a beautiful pen . . . . . . . like yours.


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## danrs (Oct 7, 2011)

What about hut type wax finish?


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## leehljp (Oct 8, 2011)

I absolutely do not use BLO on oily woods. I took me a while to be totally consistent with oily woods such as ebonies and others but it came with experience. I learned that it does not "happen" the same each time, and the humidity changes and temperature and occasionally age of the CA affect the curing. With this in mind, I expected variances in finishing / curing time. 

I occasionally use BLO on some woods and more so in cooler weather as a mild accelerator, but not on ebonies and other oily woods. I kept a hair dryer on my lathe and used that to help accelerate the curing. But not too close (no closer than 5 to 6 inches) or too hot.


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## paintspill (Oct 8, 2011)

i've done a couple ebony pens. only with ca though. but like a black car they show everything, so i sand, lots of clear, micro mesh, automotive scratch remover, then wax. but make a mistake and you will see it.


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## leehljp (Oct 8, 2011)

paintspill said:


> i've done a couple ebony pens. only with ca though. but like a black car they show everything, so i sand, lots of clear, micro mesh, automotive scratch remover, then wax. but make a mistake and you will see it.



:biggrin::biggrin: Sure will see it! But if making a pen to hurry and get through and show off, then that will happen. For me, a long time ago, I learned that each pen is a journey, some 30 minutes and some several hours or more. When the journey is over, most of the flaws are gone. And the journey is not over (to me) until then.


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## Carl Fisher (Oct 8, 2011)

Good info all.  I'm leaning to the BLO being the culprit in this case.  I just didn't have anything else to use as an accelarent and was just trying to get this done and off the lathe as it was getting the better of my patience.


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## Ted iin Michigan (Oct 8, 2011)

Carl - I've done pens in several ebony types. Don't recall too much trouble with "black & white ebony" but Macassar ebony (streaks of black and brown/orange) and Gaboon ebony (the one we all think of - mostly black) are troublesome. Lately I've been foregoing the acetone (ran out) and using a nice wash of denatured alcohol followed SOON with a couple coats of thin CA. The DNA evaporates almost as fast as acetone. DId a couple Macassar ebony pens in the last week that way and I'm real happy with the results.


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## ssajn (Oct 9, 2011)

Years ago I talked with Russ Fairfield about putting a finish on an ebony pen.

He suggested starting with a shellac based friction finish, he preferred Shellawax, Then using a wipe on poly as a final coat. 

I used this technique on several pens without any problems.


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