# Shop Made Sharpening Jig  (Big Pics)



## JWS Penworks (Dec 27, 2008)

I made this last night with scraps I had lying around the shop.  I did go to Farm and Fleet and pick up a slow speed grinder.  The sharpening jig was inspired by the one made by John Robertson.  I ordered his PDF file for under $5.00.   It was helpful for some basic measurments.  I found that the measurements in his drawings are a little different for the skews if you are using an 8" grinder verses a 6" grinder, but they are not that hard to figure out.   I used the jig on all my chisels, full size and mini tools.  It works fantastic and it is QUICK!  Well, here it is, it's not as pretty as a wolverine jig, but it works.







Set up for the spindle gouge:






Set up to do Skews:






I am glad I took the time to make it!  My chisels have NEVER been this sharp.

John


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## RHossack (Dec 27, 2008)

Nice job ...

I'm shocked at the neat and orderly shop ... how do you find anything? <G>


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## woodboys (Dec 27, 2008)

John, Thanks for sharing. I wondered if the jig worked as good as a wolvering. Your pictures look a lot better then the video showes.


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## JimB (Dec 27, 2008)

Looks great.


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## JWS Penworks (Dec 27, 2008)

woodboys said:


> John, Thanks for sharing. I wondered if the jig worked as good as a wolvering. Your pictures look a lot better then the video showes.


I don't know how well the Wolverine works as I have never tried one, but, I can't imagine it being any faster than this.

I made a couple of small changes from the one John Robertson made to make it easier to use.  

I glued the guide bolt into the bench so I didn't have to reach under the bench when loosening and tightening the jig.  

I also used a couple of 1/4" twist thingies that I had lying around the shop so I wouldn't have to hunt for a wrench every time I use the jig.  Hand tight is all that's needed to keep things stable.  

I also glued the washer to the twist knob nut so it would stay in place.  

I added all the screws along each side of the jig in the strips so the jig can be tightened or loosened when changes in humidity take place to keep the jig working smoothly and accurately.  

Once all the angles have been determined, and marked on the jig, it is really a breeze to use.  

Thanks for the kind comments,
John


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## johnnycnc (Dec 27, 2008)

Very nice, looks like it will do the job.
I need to make something similar!


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## rjwolfe3 (Dec 27, 2008)

When you use the skew attachment, do you sharpen on the sides of the wheel or the face?  Also, what wheels are you using?  TIA


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## JWS Penworks (Dec 27, 2008)

rjwolfe3 said:


> When you use the skew attachment, do you sharpen on the sides of the wheel or the face?  Also, what wheels are you using?  TIA


rjwolfe3,

The skews are sharpened on the side of the wheels.  They are 8" Aluminum Oxide 120 Grit. 

John


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## Skye (Dec 27, 2008)

Here's some links to some free plans.

http://www.turningtools.co.uk/widgets/grindingjig/wtsharpen.pdf

http://www.aroundthewoods.com/sharp.shtml

http://www.am-wood.com/june98/chiseljig.html


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## livertrans (Dec 28, 2008)

I have the wolverine jig and the skew sharpening is done on the face of the wheel. That is why the two handle holders are offset from the center handle holder. The version you made is the same as the wolverine.  The directions with mine state... Place the skew in the left side handle holder with the short point to the left. Move the in your  fixture in or out to match up the bevel already on the tool . Lift the tool off and start the grinder. Touch the tool lightly to the wheel and check that the grind marks match the bevel on your tool. If not move the fixture in or out to match the bevel. Do your grinding with side to side movements. When the first side is done flip the tool over and put the handle in the right handle holder with the short point to the right and repeat the grinding procedure. I was a machinest for 30+ years and It has always been my understanding to never grind with the side of a bench grinder wheel. (danger factor)  My sides wheels on my bench grinder do not run very true. Sooner or latler the sides will load up and  It is very difficult to dress them true without the a fixture.


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## JWS Penworks (Dec 28, 2008)

livertrans said:


> I have the wolverine jig and the skew sharpening is done on the face of the wheel. That is why the two handle holders are offset from the center handle holder. The version you made is the same as the wolverine.  The directions with mine state... Place the skew in the left side handle holder with the short point to the left. Move the in your  fixture in or out to match up the bevel already on the tool . Lift the tool off and start the grinder. Touch the tool lightly to the wheel and check that the grind marks match the bevel on your tool. If not move the fixture in or out to match the bevel. Do your grinding with side to side movements. When the first side is done flip the tool over and put the handle in the right handle holder with the short point to the right and repeat the grinding procedure. I was a machinest for 30+ years and It has always been my understanding to never grind with the side of a bench grinder wheel. (danger factor)  My sides wheels on my bench grinder do not run very true. Sooner or latler the sides will load up and  It is very difficult to dress them true without the a fixture.


Tony,

Thanks for that input, I'll give that a try!

John


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## KenV (Dec 28, 2008)

I think you will still need to make/purchase the attachment to grind the fingertip shape on gouges -  Vari-grind is the name.   

A guy named Doug Thompson (he sells lathe tooling) has convinced me that all gouges should be fingernail ground.  I have a love for his shallow detail gouge in the 3/8 size.  Doug sharpens all his gouges with vari-grind (not just bowl gouges) and I like the results I am getting with his gouges.  

Good work on the slippery tool slope --  and my shop has never ever looked that neat.


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