# Plastic Polish w/CA



## johnny1211 (Mar 17, 2009)

I searched and found quite a bit of info on the use of plastic polishes (PlastX, Micro-gloss, etc) w/CA finishes. A lot of threads reported the plastic polishes in the single digit micron range. Some threads also stated that the some MM such as 12,000 were equivalent or nearly equivalent to the plastic polish as far as micron rating goes. Being relatively new to pens (about a year or so) and even newer to the BLO/CA finish, would someone be able to explain the benefit of using a plastic polish when the micron rating is similar to MM? Would I be going backwards if I went to 12,000 MM and then hit it with a plastic polish? Also, if I MM to 12,000, do I still need to buff a BLO/CA finish? Thanks for the info.


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## tim self (Mar 17, 2009)

I sand to 1200 and then use Huts Plastic Polish on CA.  Since I started using plastic polish on my CA, I can definately tell a difference.  I nispect with a 4x magnification both before and after and the sheen is wonderful.  Just my .02


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## marcruby (Mar 18, 2009)

I go to 12K and then use the Hut polish.  For some reason the polish seems to make the finish 'shinier' enven though it should be no better than the MM.  Maybe it has something to do with the shape of the particles.  Or maybe it's all in my mind.  >

For the record, I don't buff a finish I do that way.

Marc


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## spiritwoodturner (Mar 18, 2009)

I have to agree with both reports above. I always go to 12,000, then I use the Novus (which I love). I'm not sure about the science, nor do I much care, it's considerably shinier. I wonder if it has to do with the fact that no matter how clean your MM is (I wash mine a lot) it still is going to have stuff on it or in it. The polish eliminates any possibility of that. Just wonderin'...

But it clearly and noticeably works.

Dale


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## woody350ep (Mar 18, 2009)

Definitely improves over the 12000MM.  I use Meguiars PlastX and as was stated above, the shine is night and day over the MM shine to me.


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## hughbie (Mar 18, 2009)

add me to the 12k and polish train.......i do the with plastics as well......it makes it 'gleem'


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## rwyoung (Mar 19, 2009)

I was considering looking around for my can of Brasso and trying this myself but I thought I'd ask first before I start excavating under the sink in my search...

How does Brasso do with a CA finished pen?  (And yes, I realize Brasso isn't specifically a plastic polish)


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## bradh (Mar 20, 2009)

rwyoung said:


> I was considering looking around for my can of Brasso and trying this myself but I thought I'd ask first before I start excavating under the sink in my search...
> 
> How does Brasso do with a CA finished pen?  (And yes, I realize Brasso isn't specifically a plastic polish)


Brasso will work, but a finer grit is better. I use Meguires, don't remember which one, but it is a very fine abrasive for automotive use.
I find a big improvement in gloss over 12000 MM.


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## johnny1211 (Mar 20, 2009)

Thanks to all the replies. Looks like I'll be picking some up.


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## Texatdurango (Mar 20, 2009)

If you guys want to have fun with a little experiment, turn a pen and sand up throught the micro mesh grades then polish with Novus #3 and #2 like you usually do then turn an identical pen only sand up to 800 or 1000 grit then polish with Novus #3 and #2 then compare the pens or better yet get a friend to have a look and see if they can tell the difference!

Novus #3 and #2 are two grades of scratch removing compounds, developed to remove scratches similar to what you are adding with the micro mesh.... so why spend time adding scratches only to polish them back off again. :wink:

I've talked with several turners about this and I'm not the only one who has stopped using micro mesh all together! 

Just a thought... don't shoot the messenger.


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## hunter-27 (Mar 20, 2009)

I always figured if it is good enough for my military insignia it was good enough for my pens.:biggrin:





bradh said:


> Brasso will work, but a finer grit is better. I use Meguires, don't remember which one, but it is a very fine abrasive for automotive use.
> I find a big improvement in gloss over 12000 MM.


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## Manny (Mar 21, 2009)

spiritwoodturner said:


> I have to agree with both reports above. I always go to 12,000, then I use the Novus (which I love). I'm not sure about the science, nor do I much care, it's considerably shinier. I wonder if it has to do with the fact that no matter how clean your MM is (I wash mine a lot) it still is going to have stuff on it or in it. The polish eliminates any possibility of that. Just wonderin'...
> 
> But it clearly and noticeably works.
> 
> Dale



Hey Dale,
What number Novus do you use in your process?


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## JimB (Mar 21, 2009)

HUTS palstic polish is the last step for me. Definately makes a difference.


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## spiritwoodturner (Mar 21, 2009)

Manny said:


> Hey Dale,
> What number Novus do you use in your process?



Manny, I use the #2, and I follow it with the #1 protector. I have no direct evidence the #1 actually protects it, but someone in my turner's club's been using it for years and he swears by it. Probably costs me 2 cents a pen, so what the hey, and it sure is slick. 

One of the reasons I like the Novus #2 is kinda a silly one, but then again it's not. I used to get the Novus from CSUSA, then they switched to this white stuff. It worked OK (although it dried too quickly-don't really want "crunchy" on a finished pen) but it was pure white in color. So's my rag. I couldn't tell where I started and stopped, and would hit the finished pen with a part of the polish all dried and crunchy and scratchy! Not good. The Novus is tannish. Easy to see the used spot on my rags, plus it stays wet longer, which is good.

Just my 2 bits,

Dale

P.S. Plus, I can get all Novus products at my local plastics distributor. It's a wholesale place, and if it's good enough for the trade, it works for me. And, no shipping! Yeay!


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## leehljp (Mar 21, 2009)

I have some Novus plastic polish but it hasn't made the difference, IMO - that I get with automotive .2 micron (point 2, or 2/10 of one micron) finishing compound - it is called here. We have some "plastic polish" here that is a white cream, but the .2 micron compounds followed by wax do the best for me. (I check them on occasion under a magnifying glass.)

Having said that, final finishes at this level seem to be somewhat subjective, and different people make each procedure shine so to speak (pun intended :biggrin: ) according to their likes and abilities.


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## Texatdurango (Mar 21, 2009)

leehljp said:


> I have some Novus plastic polish but it hasn't made the difference, IMO - that I get with automotive .2 micron (point 2, or 2/10 of one micron) finishing compound - it is called here. We have some "plastic polish" here that is a white cream, but the .2 micron compounds followed by wax do the best for me. (I check them on occasion under a magnifying glass.)
> 
> Having said that, final finishes at this level seem to be somewhat subjective, and different people make each procedure shine so to speak (pun intended :biggrin: ) according to their likes and abilities.


Very accurate statement, in that it's all about ability. 

It may sound silly but I'd wager that some here don't do a good job of sanding, else we wouldn't always be having these threads. I've heard numerous times someone saying... "I micro meshed up to 12,000 and still see swirls, what polish should I use?"

Well, if sanding was done properly, where one grit TOTALLY removing the previous grits marks, by the time you reach 1000 grit they should pretty well be gone.

I've seen lots of pens upfront and close, so I can honestly say some should have a look at their sanding, not their polishing 

Just something to think about.


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## penspin (Mar 23, 2009)

I just sand up to 1000 grit with regular sandpaper and then polish with Hut ultra gloss.   So far, I've been quite pleased with the results.


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## mick (Mar 23, 2009)

Texatdurango said:


> If you guys want to have fun with a little experiment, turn a pen and sand up throught the micro mesh grades then polish with Novus #3 and #2 like you usually do then turn an identical pen only sand up to 800 or 1000 grit then polish with Novus #3 and #2 then compare the pens or better yet get a friend to have a look and see if they can tell the difference!
> 
> Novus #3 and #2 are two grades of scratch removing compounds, developed to remove scratches similar to what you are adding with the micro mesh.... so why spend time adding scratches only to polish them back off again. :wink:
> 
> ...


 
George I've got your back. After my finish turning of any acrylic, plastic resin etc... pen I never sand past 800 I then polish with either the novus or Hut's Plastic polish...depending which one I'm out of at the moment...lol.
I'd be willing to bet that no one can tell that it wasn't sanded through 12000 mm I've done identical pens both ways and can't tell any difference!


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## W3DRM (Mar 23, 2009)

Okay, so where does one find the best buy for the Novus or other preferred polishes?


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## Texatdurango (Mar 23, 2009)

W3DRM said:


> Okay, so where does one find the best buy for the Novus or other preferred polishes?


I bought my Novus scratch remover #2 and #3 from a fellow forum member "MLKWoodWorking".  At the time he was hands down the cheapest place on the internet to buy the Novus polish, probably still is.


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## ahoiberg (Mar 23, 2009)

george i totally agree. sanding is still my biggest weakness and sometimes i sacrifice that for the sake of getting something done. i think pen sanding is much more difficult than people think it SHOULD be... and i would wager you're right about MM not being a necessity.


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