# Proof of concept.



## mredburn (Nov 2, 2012)

I decided I wanted to make a click pen using a roller ball refill today. I had picked up quite a few of the Schmidt click mechanisms with Mike Roux and Chuck a while back.  I thought about it for a while and decided I wanted to make it using 8mm tubes.  I took one of the clicks and took it apart, pulling the E clip off and removing the little 1mm ball bearing that makes it work. The click has m7 x .75 thread and those wont work with what I want to do.
 I started by making  a brass bushing that would fit in the 8mm tube and that the click would screw into.  I drilled  a hole with a "C" drill bit and then tapped it with a m6.5 x.5 tap. I then cut the tenon on the outside .291 to fit inside the 8mm tube and then parted it off leaving the stock diameter of .375.








 I faced it off and ran the tap back through it to clean the threads. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



I next made a brass mandrell to hold the Click Mechanism cup. I use a 4-40 shcs to bolt the cup on.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




After mounting the cup I cut the threads off the cup and then used a die to recut the new threads, m6.5 x.5 in their place.  The next picture shows the brass adapter and silver cup on the Mandrell as I check the fit. 





I decided on using m8 x.75 for the rest of the pieces that would need threading to make the pen work.  I took a silver nose cone for 8mm tubes and drilled it out to accept a 5888 private reserve roller ball.
Next  I took a piece of brass and made the center male  connector for the bottom tube. I cut it .310 for the 8mm threads and then stepped it down to .290 for the tube. I then ran the die all the way up it from the back. The .290 isnt small enough and the 8mm die cuts partial threads on it. I then drilled it with a .250 drill bit for the refill to pass through.

Next I made the upper tubes center band, first  cutting the .291 tenon and then the .400 outer diameter center band.  I cut it off the stock flipped it around and drilled it partially through with a .25 drill bit followed by a 19/64 about .150 deep. That forms the hole for the 8mm female threads. I tapped the hole using a plug tap and a bottoming tap I ground from an extra plug tap I had. Both m8 x.75.  I then go back and drill all the way through with the  .250 drill bit. Not drilling through it all the way the first time meant i could grip it hard while threading.
 The next picture is of the 2 center pieces.







That is actually the second center band piece the first one broke apart on final drilling. Next are pictures of the pieces as they will fit on the tubes, and then as an assembled unit. Ready to be made into a pen.








Dimensions on the pen are at the final minimum  .375 max..400
At the center band .400 +/- .020
At the nose cone  minimum .366 max .390
Its apx. 5.5 inches long  over all.

Questions and comments welcome.


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## KBs Pensnmore (Nov 2, 2012)

Thanks for that Mike, only you could have come up with a solution. Have been thinking about how to get around that one, never thought about making an adaptor.:biggrin:
Kryn


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## BRobbins629 (Nov 2, 2012)

Nice stuff as usual Mike.  Keep it up.


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## mredburn (Nov 2, 2012)

The nice thing is if I want to make it a long click I can take the male coupler and use it at the nosecone end.  Drilling and tapping the nose cone for the m8 x .75 threads. IT could be as thin as .375 at the clip and .366 at the nose cone.


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## Dalecamino (Nov 2, 2012)

After I picked my jaw up off the floor, I only had one question. Where's the rest of it? Wood, metal cast resin? Great work Mike. You always seem to pull these off when I'm not in the way with my chair.:biggrin::biggrin:


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## cnirenberg (Nov 2, 2012)

Mike,
I like it.  I have a few of those click mech's too.  I'm toying with using one for a new pen project, but haven't had much free thinking time to nail it down.  I'll have to subscribe to this thread for future reference or just come over when I'm in the hood.


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## penmaker56 (Nov 2, 2012)

Mike, you could of used the #10205 instead of the #10179, to avoid the re-machining of the mechanism; you would of had to make your own button though.


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## mredburn (Nov 2, 2012)

Richard, does the 10205 have to screw in from the bottom up? It looks like it in the pictures.  I already had the 10179 and I started the turning on this project after 9pm my time. I had to work with what I had on hand.
Chuck, I basically wanted to prove the concept. Making the pen body is a no brainer after I figured out how to get it done.


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## Ed McDonnell (Nov 2, 2012)

Mike - Will a roller ball refill dry out when used with a click pen?  I was thinking all the roller ball kits came with caps to prevent drying out.  Have I been thinking wrong?

Ed


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## mredburn (Nov 2, 2012)

Ed.  probably, but I believe they have stated that the refills should be good for a year without drying out.  I thought about it and it would seem when retracted it would be inside  the pen body and somewhat protected from moving air. My thought was it wouldnt dry out that quickly. I am going to give it a go anyway.


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## penmaker56 (Nov 2, 2012)

> Richard, does the 10205 have to screw in from the bottom up? It looks like it in the pictures./QUOTE]
> 
> Yes


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## wiset1 (Nov 2, 2012)

Kind of adds to the overall sale price, ha ha ha.  Great effort deserves a bit more $


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## skiprat (Nov 2, 2012)

I like what I see but have a couple of questions please. 

I'm not familiar with that particular click mech, but assuming it was made originally for a Parker style ballpoint, will this mean you now have to fit a return spring to the front of the RB refill? 
Similarly, I would imagine that the spring would need to be short in order to fit inside the nib? 

Next is the comfort. Normally a RB is sprung from behind the refill, give a soft writing experience. Is this now hard up against the click mech?

Personally, I find that with the vast amount of new refills available ( BP's ) the only difference in writing is the fact that a traditional RB is sprung. 

Custom nibs for BP's are a lot easier to make too ( IMO anyway :wink: )


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## mredburn (Nov 2, 2012)

Steve, this is the 10179 Schmidt mechanism available off of Richard Greenwald's site. www.RichardLGreenwald.com
IF you look closely at the last picture you might just see the shortened spring to the left. 
Yes its up against the click mechanism.   I sometimes like to do things the hard way

All though you have me thinking. it wouldnt be hard to put a spring on the top between the click and RB refill. I will think on it.


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## skiprat (Nov 2, 2012)

mredburn said:


> Steve, this is the 10179 Schmidt mechanism available off of Richard Greenwald's site. www.RichardLGreenwald.com
> IF you look closely at the last picture you might just see the shortened spring to the left.
> Yes its up against the click mechanism. I sometimes like to do things the hard way
> 
> All though you have me thinking. it wouldnt be hard to put a spring on the top between the click and RB refill. I will think on it.


 
Ah, I see the spring now. ( old eyes  ) 
You'd still need the return spring but you should be able to squeeze in a shortened 'comfort spring' The comfort spring would just need to be stronger than the return spring but lighter than the click spring. ( I think )

I've had RB refills laying around in my shop without the little cap piece and they hardly have ever dried out. The only issue I've had is if the tip of the refill is left touching something then the ink will syphon out. So you'd really have to remember to click the refill in before putting the pen away or in your pocket. :biggrin:


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## mredburn (Nov 2, 2012)

I have roller ball springs several of our vendors now carry them individually.


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## bluwolf (Nov 3, 2012)

When you told me the other day you were working on the idea I thought you meant kinda, sorta thinkin' about it. No wasting time with you, eh? You must not be busy enough. Well have to work on that

Mike


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