# IM done with CA



## Caden_Hrabak

Every single time i attempt a ca finish it comes out either spotty or i have to restart because of the paper towel getting stuck or some weird substance appearing on the blank. For the past 2 hours ive been back and forth from the lathe and ive wasted a sheet of 320 400 and 600 grit sandpaper trying to fix this pen! And now when i try to apply my good old shellaxwax i have some glue residue buildup on one of the blanks that wasnt there before. 

Here is my method tell me if anythings wrong

1.Ren wax on the bushings
2.Thin CA applied by putting 3-6 drops on 1 inch paper towel and rub for about 5 seconds to avoid sticking. (at 700-1200 rpm)
3. repeat 6 times
4 Thick CA same method 
5.  Repeat 6 times
6. IF there is nothing wrong with the finish i start with my 3rd MM step and move progressively up to 12000 (my mm sits in a tupperware container full of water and i drench a paper towel when i start sanding)
7.IF i have made it to this step and thats a big if, i apply Hut plastic polish vigorously  on my highest setting 3200 rpm until i am pleased with the result then apply very little ren wax to finish it off

I have read many many different ways to do a CA finish is there anything that i am doing wrong that would cause this much Headache? Ive finished 1 pen with a CA finish on my own. With my friend Displaced Canadians help ive done maybe 5....


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## Seer

I think putting the thin ca on the paper towel is one issue as it will dry super fast.  I use only med ca and run the lathe at my slowest speed drizzling the CA on the top of the balnk and running the folded strip of paper towel underneath on the bottom of the blank to smooth it out and then hit it with a spray of accelerant.  I do this several times and then wet sand any ridges and apply several more coats after that and look for more ridges and wet sand through all but the first 2 micro mesh pads I have.  Try it you may like it that I think thin ca is to runny for me but that is my opinion others like it.  Good Luck


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## Mapster

Holding the paper towel on too long. 5 seconds is plenty of time for the glue to dry and catch your paper. You only want it to touch the amount of time you need to go back and forth once, coating the blank. You can use more than a 1 inch strip also. I fold a whole square in half three times and use that. Easier to hold on to. Some won't agree with this, imho only use thin CA. I used to use thick and it left a ridgy, unevenly coated surface. With thin, it coats it completely with less effort. I know it is time consuming (about 30 min), but put on about a good 12+ coats of thin depending on the depth of finish you want, and let it dry *completely* before going on to the next coat.

It takes some practice and getting used to, but worth it in the end. Hope this helps you out and relieves those headaches.


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## Mapster

No offense intended Seer, but I have tried that method with all types of CA glue with no luck. Never got a good finish. I know we all have our own methods though. Just trying to help caden get a good easy finish.


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## Mark

Some people swear by thin CA as a first and/or second coat. I only use the med. and have not had any issues since I ironed out my humidity problem (resulting in a cloudy finish) several months back.

Before throwing in the towel, try several methods. You will find there are as many methods as there are members. Each person develops a system that works best for them. Good Luck.


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## splinter99

Hello
My advice would be less time with the paper towel. That would solve your sticking problem. Secondly..with that many coats of ca I would think you should start sanding with the 1500 mm. Most importantly..dont wory about it looking perfectly smooth and shiney after each coat..It will when you sand it. I use 8 or 10 coats of thin with a spritz of acclelrator between each coat. I let it cure for an hour or so then start the sanding with the 1500. Make sure all ridges are sanded out and the blank has a uniform dullness to it before you move on to the next finer grit. 
Dont give up..I struggled with ca for 2 years before I "got it" and now have 100 percent sucess rate.

Hope this helps you


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## Caden_Hrabak

Mark said:


> Some people swear by thin CA as a first and/or second coat. I only use the med. and have not had any issues since I ironed out my humidity problem (resulting in a cloudy finish) several months back.
> .



Humidity problem??

Im in washington so its generally very humid

Ill try again on my next pen i think i just need to practice on a piece of random wood


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## ESwindell

Caden,
Not sure what to tell you as to what is going wrong but.... here is what "I" do.
As I stated in another post I use BLO/CA.  I sand my turned pen to 400 and then take a full sheet of paper towel.  I fold the towel until it is around 2x3 maybe a little smaller.  I put a few (up to 4) drops of BLO on the towel. ( I store it in a condiment thing that I got at the dollar store) I wipe on one side of pen then repeat if the pen has two pieces, ie non-sierra  This can be done with the lathe off or running.  Once the BLO is on I turn the lathe on (if off) and squeeze the paper towel to cause heat and rub back and forth.  Then I take the same towel and drip med-CA 4-5 onto the spot that I put the BLO gently brush the towel across the project to distribute the CA and then quickly pinch the blank and move the towel rapidly back and forth maybe 10 times.  Then just repeat 3 more times with the lathe running and then I'm done.  The thickness of the towel keep the heat down on your fingers and helps you from sticking to the towel. DAMHIK
I hope that I explained it clearly and if you attempt it that it works for you.  If you have questions pm me or put in thread and I will try to answer then.
God Bless,
Eric


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## DCBluesman

Try lacquer.


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## glycerine

Someone here on the IAP suggested using the little plastic baggies that the pen parts come in to apply CA with instead of paper towels.  I started doing that a while back and haven't looked back!


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## Seer

Look here this may help.  www.mysimplecafinish.com


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## ldb2000

Don't forget the chant and yellow socks :biggrin:


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## ldb2000

Caden , watch this you tube video . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zsJXC-17rU
The simplest method is usually the best solution

I will add that I no longer use this method , I have since learned to complicate things so I can mess up in a totally new way that's totally my own :biggrin:


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## aggromere

there are as many successful CA methods as there are penturners that use them I think.  My only suggestion is to use BLO and use thin ca and put the first few coats on very thin.  At least that's what I do.  It would be ashame to give up on it.  I think CA is probably the most used finish on pens.  Just my 2 cents worth.


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## Caden_Hrabak

I still believe it is an evil substance created by the devil himself to tease me with the hopes of a great finish but has more troubles than high school...


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## ThomJ

I practiced the CA finish on dowels


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## fernhills

Throw away the paper towels. I use that thin foam packing that the electronics come packed in. I use the same swatch through out the whole process, then use it again the next day.  Carl


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## bbuis

When I do a CA finish I do it like this

Rub the paper towel along the blank while applying the CA to the Spinning blank .. I start with thin about 4-6 drops along it moving the paper towel the whole time .. as soon as the paper towel starts to catch I pull off.  Let that dry and add another layer in the same manner with a different spot of the paper towel.  I then will move on to my thick CA.  I put about 3 layers of this on in the same manner.  I usually have to build up about .005 so this is a good combination and rarely do I have to sand much off.  Make sure you have plenty of mesh around for finishing it up.


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## Rfturner

DON'T GIVE UP. I have been at the same point that you are at I almost gave up on it and I am glad that I didn't. To be perfectly honest though I tweaked my CA finish over about a two month period, I found what works and what doesn't for me. I found that the Blue shop towels seem to work better for me. I put a little BLO on the paper towel and it helps the CA not stick to the towel. I only use thin CA and BLO. Start Simple and add or take away according to your specific use. Try a little less CA I only use 2-3 drops at a time and rub it back and forth for about 10 seconds a layer. feel free to PM me


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## islandturner

I've tried variations on all these methods.  The one that works best for me is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc&feature=channel_page


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## arw01

Is it safe to use BLO on NON WOOD blanks?  No effect on the acrylics?


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## RussFairfield

This link is to a description and some video clips of how I do it. 

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/PenPages-FinishingPens-CAglue.html

I have used CA glue the same way in several climates including North FL in the summer when both temperature and humidity were close to 100, and both Western WA and North Idaho in all seasons.

The biggest problem in all climates has been the wood not being totally dry and at equilibrium with the atmosphere surrounding it. The same thing can happen if the wood moisture is reduced by the heat of turning and sanding until it is too dry and below its equilibruim with the environment. If either is a problem, it is best to wait at least overnight to allow the wood to become  stable with the atmosphere before finishing it. 

Contrary to the popular belief, I have always found that there is a difference in brands of CA glue with different wood species and climates. I use Hot Stuff because I have always had better luck with it in all climates and temperatures, and on all species of wood. Others will say the same thing about the brand of glue that they use.


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## phillywood

Caden confused yet? You asked the Qs. and here are the answers to how many ways there are to skin the cat. You are cloce to your won answer just adpot a way and stick with it. I watched a video on CA, which said do not use the paper towel because it is activator. that's why you are getting the stickyness.


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## Caden_Hrabak

ldb2000 said:


> Don't forget the chant and yellow socks :biggrin:



If the chants please god please god work work work. then im doing the chant.
I dont usually wear socks when i work nor do i have yellow socks.


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## robutacion

Well, like many said, there are many ways to skin a cat, I'm getting "super consistent"  results with the method this guy  www.cafinish.com has, you buy the DVD as I did and watch, follow and voila...! end of the CA nightmare...!:wink:

Note: No affiliation or monetary gains of any kind, with the DVD author...!

Cheers
George


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## jocat54

ldb2000 said:


> Don't forget the chant and yellow socks :biggrin:


 
Heck no wonder I'm still having problems--I thought it was green socks. Got the chant down though:biggrin:


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## Displaced Canadian

:biggrin: I found his problem, he doesn't wear socks.


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## ldb2000

The only CA finish that works .
The chant is "Ohwa Tagoo Siam" must be said quickly , repeatedly and you HAVE to be wearing the yellow socks , green , blue or red won't work . Don't forget if it's Monday , Wednesday and Friday to stand on your left foot and Tuesday , Thursday and Saturday stand on your right foot . CA finishes don't work on Sunday so don't even try . Also remember to use the Bounty paper towels with the counter clockwise swirl pattern , the clockwise pattern will just stick to the blank ...unless your south of the equator . And most importantly , you have to fold the paper towel 8 times length way and 6 times left to right and hold it between your index/ring fingers and your thumb of your right hand while rubbing your belly with your left hand , after applying 6 drops of BLO to the cat . :hypnotized::hypnotized::hypnotized:


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## Laurenr

It should be clear by this time that, given the many different techniques, you will find one that works for you. I have tried several that work, and many that did not. I have now settled on one that works well for me.

I used to lecture about the country on dental technology, and was continually asked about various products and techniques. My response was always prefaced with the phrase, "In my hands." I would never denigrate another operator's ideas or technique but just pointed out what worked for me.

Keep trying, it is an excellent surface and worth putting some time into. I use a BLO/CA combination with some of my own twists, and would glad to share it with you. I swear, the only problem I have is trying to put a finish on wood that has not completely dried, either from internal moisture or the alcohol I clean it with, (at least I think that is what causes my occasional foggy spots).

Hang in there and don't listen to anyone who has all the answers, ...usually that person is crazy. (Dave Berry):biggrin:


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## Billman

One thing I didn't see mentioned in your technique is if you do a final wet sand.

I am not sure if you are trying to have CA as your final step.

My personal technique involves applying a lot more CA and doing a wet sand with micro mesh to finish it off (sometimes a plastic polish on the end of it too... Mostly on really dark stuff).

If you insist on using so little CA, try using something that doesn't absorb it like the paper towels do. Try packing material as suggested earlier or the little plastic component bags like I do.

What every you do, don't give up. You just haven't found the magic technique that works for you. You'll get it.


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## Aerotech

Sorry but i'm horrible with names.  i watched a guy on youtube put CA on with a paper towel and then spray it several times.  then i watched another guy put CA on a paper towel with a drop of BLO on it and then put that on the pen.  i failed miserably at both techniques so i combined them.  i clean my blank, put a drop of BLO on my paper towel and then put this CA directly onto the pen blank and rub vigorsly.  after fully cured, "fingers on fire", i wipe with a clean paper towel and repeat 7 or 8 times.  then MM.  i've had nothing but success since.  i would say do exactly what you are doing but put a drop of BLO on the towel and rub till its fully cured.


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## Caden_Hrabak

I just know this is gonna stur up a fuss but. What kind of paper towel because i went over to chrises and we practiced CA finished i brought over all my stuff and the paper towel seemed to be what was killing my finish. I use paper towels you normally find in grocery stores to clean your hands with in the bathrooms. (I had a friend who had a bunch) Now i will steal my moms ultra pli stuff and hopefully that will work


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## Aerotech

regular bounty.  nothing special about the ones i use.  the way i see it you got two choices with your technique.  either find something to put on the towel to stop if from sticking, i.e. BLO,  or dont hold it to the pen as long.  when i did that i got ridges though, but those can be sanded out.  whats the lesser of two evils i suppose.


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## ESwindell

Caden,
If you are useing the brown paper towels, IMHO, I think that you may have just discovered your problem.  I use WEOS white, no print on them, paper towels.
WEOS= what ever's on sale
God Bless,
Eric


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## PenMan1

I finish only with medium CA in the summer. The humidity gets up near 100% and the temperature is nearly 100 degrees daily. While the temperature DOES affect CA glue, the humidity is much worse for the finish.

In the winter months when the humidity is around 45 percent, thin CA works wonderfully, But during the summer months it is impossible to use here (lake environment).

How high is the humidity in your area? If it gets above 65%, you may just want to try your current method using medium CA.

I hope this helps.


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## PenMan1

RussFairfield said:


> Contrary to the popular belief, I have always found that there is a difference in brands of CA glue with different wood species and climates. I use Hot Stuff because I have always had better luck with it in all climates and temperatures, and on all species of wood. Others will say the same thing about the brand of glue that they use.


 
Russ is right. There is a difference in CA from brand to brand, just as there is a difference in paint from brand to brand. It has to do with the other ingredients used in the manufacture of CA. Again, like Russ, I have had excellent results with Satellite Cities glues (Hot Stuff, Super T, Special T) and Monty's EZ glue. Many other brands cause me many headaches.

NOT TO OPEN A CAN OF WORMS HERE, but I buy the 16 or 32 OZ bottles of CA from Monty, along with many empty 2 oz bottles. As soon as my CA arrives, I divide the large container into COMPLETELY FILLED /SEALED 2  oz containers and refrigerate all of those EXCEPT the one I am about to use. When I get down to 1/8th of a bottle, I remove another 2 OZ bottle from the refrigerator and let it slowly (a day or so) come to room temperature. This may have nothing to do with it, but since I started this regiment, I have had NO finish issues.


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## dbarbee

I agree with BillMan on this.  I think your using to little ca and you may not be allowing each coat to dry completely.

Disclaimer...I'm a complete noob when it comes to a ca finish. 

While I was experimenting with this finish I found the best method for me was to apply a line of thin ca across the blank while chasing it with the paper towel.  When I tried to use less, I had it grab the paper towel from me.  I was able to then sand it down to remove the paper towel lint and then continue again.  I kept the paper towel on the blank a minimal amount of time, probably 2 seconds per blank.  While it doesn't sound like much that was plenty of time for me to get the blank coated with ca and get a quick smoothing pass.  Another issue I had problems with was not allowing the ca to dry before applying the next coat.  I tried both leaving the blank spinning on the blank for a minute or two and using accelerator and both worked equally well for me. I tend to get in a hurry and it normally costs me.  

David


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## snyiper

Well you have recieved good advice and just to add to the mix. I use Montys glue thin, blue paper towles or wax paper strips. BLO sometimes accelerant sometimes depends on mood. I drizzle on ca and rub folded towel back and forth real fast for about 2 seconds wait long enough to tear that piece off the towel and repeat 8-10 coats. I hit it wit Mothers mag wheel polish and then never dull. My way not the only way.


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## Steve Busey

ESwindell said:


> Caden,
> I use WEOS white, no print on them, paper towels.
> WEOS= what ever's on sale



YMMV :wink:

I haven't had a lot of luck with "WEOS". I've got two rolls of WEOS in the shop that I can only use for cleanup, not CA application. Bounty has been consistent as a CA applicator, so I'll stick with that. Maybe Eric has different sales in his neck of the woods.


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## PenMan1

WEOS doesn't work for me either. I have used Bounty, blue shop towels, the little bags the pen parts come in, styrofoam(?) packing sheets all successfully. I usually go back to Bounty, I think more out of preference than anything else.


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## darcisowers

I use VIVA paper towels, starting with 2 coats of thin CA then swap to the delrin bushings, then between 6-8 coats of medium CA, using aerosol accelerant. I sand with a sanding block for the first 2 grits (320 and 400) then go to hand sanding from there out.  

only problem I tend to have is sanding thru, but haven't done that in a while.  

don't give up.


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## phillywood

now I can't tell which one to try, but if you try all these suggestions, one by one then you are bound to get better at one of them by the time your done. Practice makes perfect. 
Good luck. Wait 'til I start turning then you'll see that my head is going to spin not on my neck probably on the lathe. We have way too many techniques that members have developed here. And if one notices it's coming down to individual style. 








http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&lpver=3&ref=12&p={43775E35-E640-4A49-80C4-83B7E68B9580}


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## SkookumPens

*CA finish*

Caden, try several of the procedures that have been given to you. I always use Bounty paper towels. If you are still having difficulty, we could work on it when the Washington group meets in September. 

Craig Chatterton
Puyallup, WA


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## knowltoh

Am I the only one that uses masking tape over my index finger to spread the CA?


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## RDH79

It took me 2 years to find one that works consistant for me. I'm not even going to tell how I do it because everyones way is different. Mine would be no better way than the other guys.
Just keep on trying.


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## Hardwoods

I use the blue paper towels or shop towels they can be found in the automotive sec at your local wal-mart. they work great no lint and will not stick to your work. I cut mine about a inch wide and fold three or four times. I also use the blo-med CA but remember it only takes a drop of blo.[ that is boiled linseed oil.] apply that till it heats up then go with the med CA about 3 or 4 drops and go back and fourth until it heats up then go back to the blo and so on until you have the rite gloss that you want..


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## RussFairfield

Butch's description of "the only CA finish that works" is priceless. Some of the techniques that I have seen posted on this site come very close to his description.


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## sbwertz

How high is the humidity in your area? 

Ours is about 7% except during monsoon when it gets up around 30% or so.  I've been using medium CA and blo and haven't had any problems, but is there a better way in the very low humidity?


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## mick

PenMan1 said:


> I finish only with medium CA in the summer. The humidity gets up near 100% and the temperature is nearly 100 degrees daily. While the temperature DOES affect CA glue, the humidity is much worse for the finish.
> 
> In the winter months when the humidity is around 45 percent, thin CA works wonderfully, But during the summer months it is impossible to use here (lake environment).
> 
> How high is the humidity in your area? If it gets above 65%, you may just want to try your current method using medium CA.
> 
> I hope this helps.


 
Andy , this just goes to show that CA finishes work differently for everyone. I use only thin CA and my weather conditions are very close to your. I live just a block off the Tennessee river and we've had temps hovering around 100 and high humidity. My application of thin CA doesn't change with the seasons...granted it takes a few minutes longer in the winter. My shop is heated in the winter but not cooled in the summer.


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## monophoto

Let me add a positive note to this discussion - I think I'm gradually learning how to do a CA finish.

Sand from 150 through 800 grit.  Wipe down with DNA
.  
Wearing a rubber glove, apply a coating of BLO using a small strip of blue paper towel with the lathe running at its lowest speed.  Then, put a couple of drops of thin CA onto the oily patch on the paper towel and apply to the turning with the lathe at its lowest speed.  Rub briskly along the length of the turning. Wait a couple of seconds, then apply a few drops of BLO on another bit of towel, put a couple of drops of CA on top of that, and apply to the turning.  Repeat the process 6-8 times.  Finally, polish the surface using a plastic polish (something I bought at the automotive store).  

Seems to work very well with most woods - does not work well with cherry or rosewood - they seem to simply soak up the CA with no obviously buildup.


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## ToddMR

Butch, Mark and others will tell you I was were you are at about 1 month back.  I was so done with CA finishing I couldn't see straight.  I got several suggestions, and even experimented on my own.  I then came to a finish I am now happy with using on every pen I do.  Yes it can be improved on, but that will happen over time.  I have tried other finishing methods and I find while challenging CA is the way to go for me.  Just practice, try various methods, mix n match them.  And don't be afraid to try something if you think of it.  Hang in there and give it more time, I personally know how frustrating it can be.


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## hagsmich

*I agree with robutacion*

I went to the same website http://www.cafinish.com/, got the DVD and followed Eric's instructions. I made three pens using his techniques and holy cow, what a perfect and consistent CA finish. Talk about a perfectly clear super high gloss finish. You won't get a better finish. CA/BLO sucks compared to this finish.


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## sgimbel

I'm using the white micro mesh papers you can get for cleaning glasses.  It doesn't suck the CA up like a towel and it's extremely smooth.


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## MatthewZS

*Something I've not seen mentioned.....*

...and this made a big difference for me.....  I started off trying to apply CA as described in most of the articles and videos and it went ok but it was a crap shoot whether the paper towel would stick or the glue would dry smooth or clear....  I finally took the "walk before you run" approach and tried with the lathe off.  I folded up a paper towel so the glue doesn't soak thru, I put quite a few drops of thin CA on the stationary blank, then spun the lathe by hand with one hand and wiped the CA on with the other.  Once I'd made one or two revolutions gently wiping the CA on I'd let it dry without accelerator.  Then I'd apply another coat same way till I was done.... then MM and polish.  Having a good feeling for how the glue dries and spreads and smooths at low speed did WONDERS for how well I could work with it at high speed.

HTH


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## Laurenr

hagsmich said:


> I went to the same website http://www.cafinish.com/, got the DVD and followed Eric's instructions. I made three pens using his techniques and holy cow, what a perfect and consistent CA finish. Talk about a perfectly clear super high gloss finish. You won't get a better finish. CA/BLO sucks compared to this finish.



I have been very happy with my BLO/CA finishes, except for the occasional dull spots. I just ordered the DVD out of curiosity. I am open to anything that is better, ...period.

Lauren


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## ldb2000

As has already been stated over and over "THERE IS NO SINGLE WAY TO APPLY A CA FINISH THAT WORKS FOR EVERYONE EVERYTIME" . There are way too many variables to be considered . If you have a system that works for you then stick with it .... until "IT" happens and your system goes south , big time . Don't worry , it will happen .
Start with the simplest method and then adjust it until you are happy with it . Some use Bounty and Blo , some use Viva and thin CA . There really is no rocket science here , no voodoo , no magic chant , it's just a matter of practice and patience . 
My favorite is still the simplest method of 3 coats of thick with a little time between each coat . No BLO or accelerator or yellow socks . If you are just starting out , try it then complicate the hell out of it if you want or stick with simple and just get it done .


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## Laurenr

OK, got the DVD, watched it and tried the technique. It is indeed flawless, easy, and consistent. Check the photos I posted this evening, on the "showoff" forum and member's photos to see examples. I will not go back to BLO! This is me after looking at my finishes. :biggrin:


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## spnemo

I got the DVD too.  I have yet to try his method, but I have learned some very valuable tips (like turning between centers instead of on a mandrel).  I can't wait to try it out.  I am not as concerned about the gloss of the finish as I am about the chatoyance of the wood.  I like the BLO/CA look, but if this is better I will switch!


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## AlanZ

I received the DVD the other day.  It's nicely done.  I'll give it a try soon.


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## RussFairfield

I agree with DCBluesman's recommendation to try lacquer, but I think that if you are having problems with CA glue, you may also have problems with lacquer.

My methods for using CA is described with words, photos, and videos on my website at:

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/PenPages-FinishingPens-CAglue.html

I use this method because it is simple and it works every time for me. If you choose to change the methds described, you are on your own.

The 2 most common problems with hardwoods are moisture and natural oils in the wood. The vendors do not sell dry wood. Hardwoods take a long time to dry, and the center of the piece is the last to dry. Turn the pen a bit over-sized and then let it sit for a month. Your problem should go away.

Another common problem is natural oil in the wood. Always remove the surface oils with a lacquer thinner before applying the CA glue.


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## ThomJ

I did ok with the Ca finish, only been using it since June


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## dl351

I started with CA in the Spring.  The method I use now is completely different, gets better, more consistent results, and I don't use micro-mesh any more.

I have my lathe on at full speed, smear on a drop of BLO with paper towel, then do the same with a drop or two of medium CA.  I repeat this sequence 8 to 10 times.  I'll post a couple pictures later.

I experimented with BLO and CA on the paper towel at the same time, and I got a lot of splattering with that method.


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## spnemo

I tried the method from the DVD.  I don't think the quality of the finish is any better than BLO/CA but it is not worse either.  The application seems easier but not by much.  There is more sanding but again not much.  I tried it on a pre-turned tube that wouldn't take a BLO/CA finish.  It looks great!  

I'm not going to stop using BLO/CA but I am definately adding this method to my bag of tricks.  

Please note, I am a beginner.  I can produce consistantly good results with BLO/CA.  This is the only time I have used the DVD method. However, I cannot see any reason why it would not be repeatable.


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## Done

Caden, I was having the same problems. I purchased Eric Anderson's video and have no more problems.  Eric@Andersonscustompens.com. Try it you'll like it.


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## woodartisan

Same here.  I use the thick plastic bags that some of the pen kits come in.  It works great.  Try it out!


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## kinggabby

When I use the BLO/CA finish I used blue shop towels and usually apply 3-4 coats of thin and then 3-5 coats of med. learned via phone from RAdams. most times it seems like I don't have to sand after. But if I do there is not much sanding I have to do.


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## MikeyTn

CA glue finish has got to be the most discussed topic in the penturning community. I've had both brilliant successes and devestating failures with it. With soft burls and spalted lumber CA glue is almost required IMO. 

A hard shiny CA finish has become the halmark of quality penmaking craftsmanship.

With that said I sure love a EEE Ultra shine and Shellawax finish. It's fast and easy. It looks good. The pen feels wonderfully silky smooth and luxurious in the hand and it even smells good. It just isn't as durable.


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## louisbry

I am curious about the DVD.  I did some searching and found out that Eric Anderson was a member of IAP around Jan 2010 (Builderguy) and has made about 22 posts.  His current status with IAP is "banned".  A good percentage of his posts involved asking questions about CA finish, CA/BLO finish and between center turning.

My question concerning the DVD is:  It the technique for applying CA fundamentally new or just a rehash of methods discussed on IAP?   I know he sells the DVD for around $20 so I am not asking anyone to reveal specifics.


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## rjwolfe3

I watched the four videos he put on You Tube before the DVD came out. I did not buy the DVD so can't answer that part. I do know that the four that I watched were very well put together and fun to watch. I don't why he was banned though. None of my business I guess. Seen more then one name lately that was banned.


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## denisz

*CA*

I use only CA for my finishes.  Here's how I do it that works every time.  Use one of the small plastic bags you pen parts come in e.g., the bag the pen tip might be in.  Run the lathe at 400-500 rpms.  Put a couple of drops on the pen blank and run the bag across several times quickly.  It will not stick like paper. Do this a couple of times and accelerate.  Sand and your good to go.


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## redfishsc

I used to be able to do a CA finish reasonably well-- it would turn out beautifully smooth and slick and even. 


But. There would be hazy spots. 

I did this in an air conditioned room, on many days. Humidity was the issue that was most often thrown around.... but I can't see how an air conditioned room, over the course of the 6 months I tried the CA finish, could always be the culprit. 


Either way, after wasting several bottles of CA (through several brands and thicknesses) I said "to hell with it". 


Got out my spray gun and conversion varnish (a catalyzed lacquer product used by production cabinet shops). Viola, problem solved.


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## Papa mark

Talk to Curtis, Mesquite Man. He has a very good and very easy method of the CA finish. Great results every time.


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## RussFairfield

It seems like 1/2 of the members of this site use almost as many different methods for finishing with CA glue because it works for them. The other 1/2 don't use  CA glue because none of the methods used by the others will work for them.

There are four ways to apply a CA glue - CA glue by itself, CA glue followed by BLO, BLO followed by CA glue, and a complex application of CA glue and a bunch of other things. I personally use CA by itself when I want a high gloss finish on the pen.  I use one of the CA and BLO applications when I want a satain finish with no  gloss because that's the only way it works for me. I never use the complicated methods because I can't remember them and they take too long.


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