# Need advice for acrylic pens



## Herb G (Apr 14, 2016)

I have watched a lot of videos on youtube about people turning acrylic pens. Some people turn at 1800 rpms & others turn at 3000 rpms.

Can someone explain to me why such a difference in speeds?
I don't want to blow out a bunch of expensive blanks learning is why I ask.


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## magpens (Apr 14, 2016)

When I start work on a particular acrylic blank I start at low speed ... about 1000 or even less and I take light cuts.  As I get closer to finishing I up the speed to about 1500 and take even lighter cuts.  

You have to get some inexpensive blanks to practice on and do what feels right for you.  

The speed you use depends on which acrylic you are turning and also on the tools you use.

But the key thing is to always take light cuts and keep your tools very sharp.


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## Herb G (Apr 14, 2016)

Most of the slower speeds were for turning acrylic acetate, and the higher speeds I saw were for Alumilite. Do you have a source for cheap plastic blanks?
I can't afford $4-$8 for a single blank to practice on.
Maybe someone has some mistakes they'd be willing to sell for cheap for me to practice on?


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## OLLIEwinz (Apr 14, 2016)

the woodturningz acrylic sampler pack is $30 and comes with 12 random blanks, that comes out to $2.50 each 
hope this helps


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## TonyL (Apr 14, 2016)

I used to turn all at 2000. Now, the more brittle, the fast I turn (2500 to 3000). My tools are very sharp though. This is what works for me. Mixed material, I turn at 2200.

I drill at 800 to 1000 on a lather in 3/8 inch increments and a pilot hole to minimize the brit walking upwards. 

Again, works for me.


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## Edgar (Apr 14, 2016)

I started out turning about 1800 rpm, but as I gained experience & confidence, I moved up to 2200 and eventually to 3000 (or whatever the actual top 3 speeds were on my lathe). Now that I have a variable speed lathe, I turn pens & other small things in the 2700-3200 range.

I use that speed for turning both wood & acrylic and also for sanding & finishing. As noted by others, sharp tools & light cuts are important. A light touch, rapid movement & good quality sandpaper are key for sanding at those speeds. I use Mirca gold flex on wood & Abranet mesh on acrylic for 320-600 grit then micro mesh sheets cut into 1" strips for 1500-12000. What grit I actually start with depends on how good a job I did with my turning.


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## KenV (Apr 14, 2016)

You cannot turn too slow.  (At a dead stop you are carving).  Human powered lathes are not very fast and turners have done marvels at slow speed.

Turn as fast as you are comfortable with and get good results.  Learning at slow speeds is pretty safe, and allows thought of processes.   

Add speed with improved skills in turning and sharpening.


Turn safely and have fun


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## qquake (Apr 14, 2016)

I turn all acrylics at 2000-2200. It's what feels comfortable to me.


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## Herb G (Apr 14, 2016)

I should have mentioned, I have turned a few wooden pens. Mostly Slim Line, if it makes a difference. I was curious as to why different plastics were turned at different speeds is all. I am branching out, making different pen kits, different materials, etc.

Slim Line pens get pretty boring after awhile. No disrespect meant.


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## mecompco (Apr 14, 2016)

I'll admit to ignorance about turning at different speeds. I turn everything at full speed (3700 or thereabouts). Not sure what advantage there might be to turning small spindles more slowly?

I do drill, square, and sand at ~500. Buffing is at full speed.

Just MHO, FWIW.

Regards,
Michael


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## Bob in SF (Apr 14, 2016)

I turn wood or resins at 3500-4000 with carbide tools and a nice sharp skew; roughen brass pen tubes with 150 grit at 500; and sand with 400 or 600-12000 grit at 500-700rpm (striving for minimal sanding by careful skew handling).


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