# Skew chisel turning speed?



## Fibonacci (Mar 7, 2011)

I have been trying to get the hang of using a skew chisel in the limited amount of lathe time that I have, but doing really, really badly.  Mostly catching it and chipping chunks off the blank.

I came to the conclusion (based on some videos), that I was using it wrong, but I also ran across some comments about inexpensive lathes not turning fast enough to use a skew properly.

My question is, should I turn the speed up for using a skew?  If so, about how much?


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## trickydick (Mar 7, 2011)

It amy not be speed that is the problem.  Round your item first with a roughing gouge.  When using the skew uou need to be riding the bevel and contacting the wood at approximately the 1/3 mark from the bottom of the skew.  Any higher up the skew can lead to a catch.

Faster is usually better but anything over 800 should be fine.  I skew at 1200 to 2500.


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## cnccutter (Mar 7, 2011)

skews are one of the tuffer tools to master. it will take lots of practice to fully understand its use. I also use it for ruffing sometimes, I guess i don't like to have to jump back and forth with tools a lot. as for speed, i use mine at all speeds. it works fine an leaves a great finish.

try watching "Son of Skew", its good info on technical use of the skew.

Erik


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## rherrell (Mar 7, 2011)

Try moving your rest up just a tad. You need to be above center quite a bit, almost on top of the blank, at least that's the way I do it.

I keep the speed around 2500-3000rpm.


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## Wildman (Mar 7, 2011)

With lathe turned off round blank between centers, raise tool rest tad above center. Hold skew with one hand rotate blank with other hand. You should be getting curled shavings coming off the blank. If not tool is dull, your not holding tool correctly and not riding the bevel. 

Practice unitl get curl shavings coming off the blank. Turn lathe on slowest speed using two hands to hold skew practice until confident, then turn speed up. Use any scrap wood you have.


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## alphageek (Mar 7, 2011)

I'd recommend top speed of your lathe for a pen...  Faster is better for me.

And I'd also say to watch Eds videos... it may give you some ideas:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTgiE_U6eOk


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## hunter-27 (Mar 7, 2011)

alphageek said:


> I'd recommend top speed of your lathe for a pen...  Faster is better for me.
> 
> And I'd also say to watch Eds videos... it may give you some ideas:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTgiE_U6eOk


Not saying it is right or wrong, just how I do it.  More often than not, when I use my skew, I use it from start to finish.  I do this whether the blank is square or round.  I turn at 3900, fast as it goes.  I rarely have catches anymore,(mostly due to sharp tools), if I do, at 3900 the result is usually catastrophic to the pen blank.:crying:  Ed is MUCH more experienced(older):biggrin::wink: than I am so his videos are great and very useful.  Hope that helps.


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## JerrySambrook (Mar 7, 2011)

I suggest you find a club in your area and try to get some hands on training.
And the other is to get a copy of each of Alan Lacer's videos if you have the ability to learn from videos (not an insult to you, but many people cannot do this even though they say they can)

There are quite a few different cut that can be performed with the skew, and Alan does a great job of explaining them.

But first and foremost, if you can find a local turning club, typically members will be helpful is showing.


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## terryf (Mar 7, 2011)

I have been using my skew from day 1 and at around 1100rpm with no problems. I find the roughing gouge catches way more than the skew. 
Sharp tools make for easier work.


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## Daniel (Mar 7, 2011)

I don't think anything can replace a hands on lesson for the skew. It is just different and in some ways counter to the way we are used to a tool cutting on the lathe. I once wrote a description of using it that a lot of people said was very good. One thing I added that seems obviously different to me is think about cutting at the top of your turning rather than the side like most tools. This is not true in a perfect since, but the use of a skew sure has that feel to me. the tool is cutting from far higher up the turning than say a gouge does. The tool has a feel like it is rubbing against the turing even when not cutting. I consider this to be what others are describing when they say "Ride the bevel" or rub the bevel on your turning. it is this leaning the tool on your work that lends better control. also you have to cut with the half of the edge closest to you. if you get into the half that is furthest from you, you are begging for a catch. I actully use the part of the edge that is very near the heal just as a saftey factor. be careful though because the heel can catch as well but not nearly as certainly as the toe will.
Firm support in every way you can manage it is helpful. this starts with where you have your feet and works it's way through your body to your hands and into the tool. Nothing but an eyes on teacher can be watching for all of that though.

Edited to add: I also think that sharpness is an issue with a skew. Time and time again I see turners think they have sharp tools. I have actually watched some people working so hard with an obviously dull tool that the mandrel is bending under the force they are applying. Not that people are wanting to work with dull tools. most have never really used a sharp one. I see it time and time again. sharpening equipment is expensive so there is a lot of reason to try other ways to keep tools sharp. usually with results that are "Sharp enough". Try taking just one tool and having it sharpened by a professional. then see what you think sharp is really worth. at any rate you might get away with forcing a dull gouge for a very long time. A skew is going to punish you for it.


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## garvan (Mar 7, 2011)

Search the internet for "My Friend the Skew" by Alan Lacer.  Then practice on 2x2's about 8" long between centers.  No need to waste your pen blanks.  I am no master of the skew but this really helped me.


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## MorganGrafixx (Mar 7, 2011)

Keep sharpening your tools!!! If you think you've got a good sharp edge going, you are close. 

I like to consider myself somewhat of an intermediate turner, but I decided a LONG time ago that I really wanted to learn to use the skew "properly". I watched a few videos, but it didn't help me much. I just decided to rip a crap-load of 2x4s into twice a crap-load of 2x2s and set out to cover my entire shop floor in pine shavings. I didn't stop until I ran out of wood. 

End result is that I can use a skew and produce so smooth a finish that for the most part I don't even need sandpaper (acrylic, antler, horn or wood...and I'll put my finish up against most anyone elses too. Point is, no one can really teach you anything to make you good at it...you just need to get a bunch of 2x2s and start in on it until you figure it out. Move your tool rest up, down, angle left, angle right, turn the skew upside down, scrape cut, shave cut, just try all kinds of different stuff. You'll get the hang of it, I promise.


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## KenV (Mar 7, 2011)

I have observed that most less experienced turners think they have to push the tool into the material being turned.   That may be faster in the hands of an experienced turner, but most learn the skew with the ABC  (Approach - Bevel - Cut) and then let the tool cut by getting the "sweet spot and putting any pressure down on the tool rest  -- and aim the tool with the handle whille letting the tool cut at itls own pace --

I suspect you are catching on the rounding because you are pushing the tool and it moves forward while cutting air and then has a really big piece of material to contend with.   Higher speed makes the pushing less severe.  

Slow down, ABC -- let the tool cut --     And spend some time making sure your skew is scary sharp.  I hone my skew with a diamond hone -- and as Robert Rosand advises -- sharpen when your "....skew could be sharper" rather than wait for dull.


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## aggromere (Mar 7, 2011)

When I first started turning I could not use a skew to save my life.  I'm not sure how I learned, but I think as others have said, it is just practice and confidence.  I find that the skew chisel (the flat ones) work best for me laying flat on the tool rest.  You have to be careful not to dig in the end edges.  I have seen some videos where the skew was actually rounded on each end to prevent this.  Take light cuts.

I have also been experimenting with speed and find the skew and skew chisel work fine at speeds as slow as about 800 for me.


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## KenV (Mar 7, 2011)

Peter --  Flat on the tool rest with a skew is generally called a "scraping cut" or "using the skew as a scraper".   That is a useful technique, but is generally not the traditional shearing cuts associated with skew, nor the planing cuts.  

You may find a more blunt bevel (bevel length about the thickness of the skew) for a lot of use as a scraper.  The longer bevel (Lacer talks about 1 1/2 times the thickness for the bevel length) is more common for shearing (but is more grabby).  

Scraping cuts are especially effective with acrylics --


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## bensoelberg (Mar 7, 2011)

There is a turning club near you in Lancaster and another here in Bakersfield.  The Bakersfield group meets the second Saturday of even numbered months.  PM me and I'll give you specifics about time and place.  I'm not sure when the Lancaster group meets, but many of them make the drive to Bakersfield every other month.  They are called the Antelope Valley Woodturners, and the Bakersfield group is the Kern County Woodturners.


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## Wildman (Mar 7, 2011)

Daniel hit the nail on the head talking about sharp tools and ride or rub the bevel. This is necessary using a skew chisel. When you lose bevel support, you tend to get catches or tool digs in, and those nasty spiral cuts. 

I still get those nasty spiral cuts turning beads using my skew chisel. I am rushing the cut and losing bevel support causing heal of the tool to dig in.  (Heal= short point toe = long point)   

Does not matter whether using traditional skew, oval skew, or Raffan/Lancer skew with curved/radius if you lose bevel support you will get a catch, dig—in or spiral cut. I have never used an oval skew, but have ground a curved or radius bevel on my skew chisel. Now back to traditional angle and bevel on all my skews.    

Doing the hand exercise posted earlier will tell you if your skew is sharp and holding tool correctly because  getting that slicing cut you need and curls you want to see!


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## bitshird (Mar 7, 2011)

On the rare occasion I use a skew, I run the lathe up to around 3,000 and drop my rest so that I'm engaging about the bottom third of the skew, I've also rounded the bottom of my 3/4 skew so I can get a smoother sliding movement across the tool rest, this way the square corners don't catch and jerk the skew. I firmly believe that the man that knows how to use the most tools proficiently will do the job just a little quicker and better, same for Bowl Gouges, Also don't forget to keep your tool rest surface smooth as a baby's behind, it will make even a woodchuck cut better.


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## TellicoTurning (Mar 7, 2011)

I eschew to skew as much as possible.. 
Like a number here, I turn at high speed.. on my little lathe about 2600 rpm... rarely go all the way to top end... on the big lathe, since it's a Reeves speed unit, the handle gets int he way on anything over 2000 rpm, so that's usually tops there.... I do pens and bottle stoppers mostly on the 1014 and everything else on the 1442.


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## shull (Mar 7, 2011)

I turn at 1800 on the bottom 1/3 of the edge.  Round the bottom (narrow) face of the skew and it will make your life EASIER.  Smooth the tool rest and go slow with very sharp tool.


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