# Quetion regarding Wipe On Poly (WOP)



## Mark (Apr 22, 2010)

Does WOP build up like CA? 

I have a Black Walnut that has been giving me problems with a CA finish, due to the humidity in my basement.

I've decided to try the WOP, to see how it works on another Black Walnut blank. Problem being I turned this one a smudge too far. Nothing that most people will notice, but I see it and it bothers me.

So, can I build it up using the WOP as a finish?
Build up would be approx 1/16 max. thickness.

Thanks in advance, Mark


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## bitshird (Apr 22, 2010)

I don't know if you can get a 1/16th build up, with WOP but it does build up, It's a thin viscosity poly and it does tack set in about 45 minutes to an hour, I use it on my tool handles and 4 or 5 coats seems to give a nice depth and sanding with 400 just before the last coat makes for a nice finish, but I honestly don't see getting the kind of build up your looking for.


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## Mark (Apr 22, 2010)

Thanks much Ken. Would building with CA be an option, then finishing with WOP? The low area is just shy of 1/2" long. I could build that up with CA and finish the whole blank in WOP.

Does that sound feasible?


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## bitshird (Apr 22, 2010)

Mark you're talking a .0625 build up even with thick CA it's going to take a lot of time, I would imagine after letting the CA degass for a week or two it would be OK to put WOP on but there's going to be a lot of chemical reaction with that much build up of CA.


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## Mark (Apr 22, 2010)

Well, Maybe best to set the pair aside and use it for segmenting or something down the road. 

I don't want to be a chemist. lol


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## Mark (Apr 23, 2010)

I haven't given up on this second blank. I went ahead and turned some IPE, that I received today. THx Curtis! It will do well for replacing the Black Walnut ( I think) if necessary. I've started to build my low area with CA. Once I work it up to an acceptable level, I will sand, MM and polish. We'll see what happens... THanks for the info on the WOP. I will try it out at a later date.


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## witz1976 (Apr 23, 2010)

you mentioned problems with humidity in the basement...could try a dehumidifier?


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## Mark (Apr 23, 2010)

Thx Dan. I have one on order from Lowes. Shopping online is great, but I'd rather just go pick it up. They were out.... Normally the humididty is not a problem. The Central Air unit removes the moisture. It needs to be recharged (not freon, but the other gas), but it can't be done until we hit a 70 deg day. lol. Currently scheduled for May 7th. I'll have the dehumidifier next week.


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## witz1976 (Apr 23, 2010)

only reason why I mentioned it is because I had the same issue =)


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## KingBentley (Apr 23, 2010)

Well, I'll tell you, I had a rough start on the wipe on poly when I first started using it, but now I don't use anything else.  The thing that I learned is that if the blank isn't already stabilized, the poly is just going to soak into the wood.  You need to use a sanding sealer first.  This maybe common knowledge, but it took me a few lessons to learn!!  Also, this may or may not be useful, but you could just wipe on a coat or 2 each day or whenever you think about it while you pursue other projects...just a thought.


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## Mark (Apr 23, 2010)

Cool. Thank you very much for the info. I'll keep the sanding sealer in mind.

 Humidity.. It's annoying isn't it? It was never a problem before and probably won't be again, once the central air is fixed.

This hobby is getting expensive. But that's okay. I love it. :biggrin:


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## TellicoTurning (Apr 24, 2010)

KingBentley said:


> Well, I'll tell you, I had a rough start on the wipe on poly when I first started using it, but now I don't use anything else.  The thing that I learned is that if the blank isn't already stabilized, the poly is just going to soak into the wood.  You need to use a sanding sealer first.  This maybe common knowledge, but it took me a few lessons to learn!!  Also, this may or may not be useful, but you could just wipe on a coat or 2 each day or whenever you think about it while you pursue other projects...just a thought.



I concur with the sealer... I use the WOP on my pepper mills almost exclusively because of the durability and the handling of the mills... I use a good sanding sealer.. right now I'm using a Minwax sealer, but also have a lacquer sealer that I'm not quite so happy with.  Let the sealer cure for a couple of days before you start the WOP.... I generally use 3-6 coats of the WOP over the sealer, letting each coat sit for a day... you can add more more often, but I usually put mine on the last thing before I leave the shop for the night and let it sit overnight until I leave the shop again. 

It's pretty thin stuff and would take a lot of coats to do much build up.  
All in all, it's my favorite finish.


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## RussFairfield (Apr 24, 2010)

At 1/16" thickness, your only choice is to encapsulate in in Plexiglass, or make another pen. You will not be satified with any conventional finish if it is built up to 1/16" thickness. They will either be rubbery or brittle, and most of them will turn a dark amber color as they age.

There are several messages and maybe a tutorial on using the Plexiglas on this site. You melt the Plexiglass in an solution of Acetone and apply as described.


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## Mark (Apr 24, 2010)

Thank you. I'll look into the Plexi. and I've gone and ordered some sealer.
Always learning something new. 

My wife's gone to crack when she see's the CC this month.


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