# Alternative finish to CA for pens



## sbwertz (Dec 7, 2016)

One of my volunteer trainers at the Center for the Blind is allergic to CA.  What is the best alternative for finishing pens?  For peppermills, stoppers, etc she uses Mylands.  I have the Woodturner's finish I could take down there.  Does anyone have experience with the "longevity" of this finish on pens?


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## Skie_M (Dec 7, 2016)

Good things were being said about Solarez as a replacement finish for CA.


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## TonyL (Dec 7, 2016)

Funny, I just used some to repair my earphones and slippers LOL. I am going to try one more of their (Wahoo's)  products; I now own 4, plus one they made especially for me. I should receive it Friday. Like, CA there is a knack to applying it _and_ regardless of the UV light you buy..nothing beats sunlight light so far in all of my experimenting. I will keep those that expressed and interested posted.


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## donstephan (Dec 7, 2016)

General Finishes' Woodturner's Finish?  Manufacturer claims quick drying.


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## duncsuss (Dec 7, 2016)

sbwertz said:


> One of my volunteer trainers at the Center for the Blind is allergic to CA.



All kinds of CA? I get blocked sinuses (like a really heavy cold) using the regular stuff, but have no problem with the "Odorless CA".


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## JimB (Dec 7, 2016)

I use WOP (wipe on poly) on many pens. The issue is drying time between coats. I wait 24 hours.


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## MTViper (Dec 8, 2016)

I've had great luck with Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus finish.  It's a friction polish with Walnut oil, Shellac, and wax.  I've been using it for a couple of years now and love it.  I only use CA for a finish when forced to.  I prefer the look of friction polish for pens.

For larger turnings, I've used pure tung oil, tung oil finish, poly, and a beeswax/mineral oil home made finish.


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## leehljp (Dec 8, 2016)

Lacquer is another great finish. 

As with most flat wood finishes, lacquer, poly, oils, - TIME is a must consideration. One of the draws of pen making is the ability to make and finish in a limited time, or in one "class". That is also the draw of CA. Move outside of CA, and your open time is increased or spread across two classes. Lacquer and Oils will set in an hour, but final buffing finish, in general, is reserved for the following day, or at least a few hours later. WAXES make for beautiful finishes but wear off almost immediately or as soon as a customer starts using it. 

Solarez is a promising new finish with short finish time, but UV light is needed.

Have you tried Odorless CA as mentioned by Duncuss?

People usually overlook the *open work time *changes when moving from CA to other finishes. That is almost a paradigm shift, specifically when doing things in a limited time class or session.


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## sbwertz (Dec 9, 2016)

Never heard of odorless CA.  I'll check into it.  She is currently using Woodturner's Finish, and it is OK but not as good as CA.


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## edstreet (Dec 9, 2016)

I have preached odorless CA on iap here for YEARS.


http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/how-does-ca-affect-you-143780/#post1882064


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## Pat Keefe (Dec 9, 2016)

Try Ubeaut's Aussie Oil. Friction polish.

I follow the instructions and putting anywhere from 4 to 10 coats. 10 coats takes about 5 minutes and does not have the plasticy feel of CA.

I'm in the use CA as last resort camp, due to it's negative affects on my body. :beat-up:


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## sbwertz (Dec 11, 2016)

I ordered some odorless CA for her to try.  Thank you all for your help


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## its_virgil (Dec 11, 2016)

I wonder how many who express their liking for various fraction polishes have seen pens after a year or so of use? Shellac picks up moisture and oils from handling. My experience has been pens darken with age after use. Just my observations. I am not a fruition polish fan for items that are used. Friction polishes do seem to hold on items that set and are not used or handled daily!

Les Elm has excellent instructions for a dipping method he uses. The finish is a type of poly and his results look really really nice.

I have been using General Finishes's Woodturners Finish on bowls and hollow forms and really like the results. I have not used in on pens yet. I do need to make one, finish it with WTF and see how it performs.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


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## edstreet (Dec 11, 2016)

sbwertz said:


> I ordered some odorless CA for her to try.  Thank you all for your help





Which odorless did you order?


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## sschering (Dec 13, 2016)

I have been playing around with Tru-Oil and Armorall. Crazy but it works.. Popular for Gun stocks and knife handles.
How To Woodstock's Elixir: Armorall and Truoil finishing handle material


View in Gallery


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## mecompco (Dec 13, 2016)

sschering said:


> I have been playing around with Tru-Oil and Armorall. Crazy but it works.. Popular for Gun stocks and knife handles.
> How To Woodstock's Elixir: Armorall and Truoil finishing handle material
> 
> 
> View in Gallery



I use Tru-Oil filler and finish on my gun-themed pens. Back in the day I used it when re-finishing rifle stocks. I've no data on how it holds up on pens yet. It does make a nice matte finish on Walnut and feels really nice. Will check out your link on adding Armorall.

Regards,
Michael


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## jsolie (Dec 14, 2016)

sschering said:


> I have been playing around with Tru-Oil and Armorall. Crazy but it works.. Popular for Gun stocks and knife handles.
> How To Woodstock's Elixir: Armorall and Truoil finishing handle material
> 
> 
> View in gallery



I've used Tru-Oil + Armorall for a couple of rifle stocks.  They came out looking awesome and were done in an afternoon.  Not sure how that finish would hold up on a pen that's used and handled daily.


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## Glenn McCullough (Dec 14, 2016)

My go to alternate finish is Deft brush on gloss lacquer. It dries to re coat in about half an hour, ready to assemble next day. Just be sure you use a soft brush with a relatively dust free application area.


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## jttheclockman (Dec 14, 2016)

Glenn McCullough said:


> My go to alternate finish is Deft brush on gloss lacquer. It dries to re coat in about half an hour, ready to assemble next day. Just be sure you use a soft brush with a relatively dust free application area.




If you are using brush on why not do the dip it method. Lot easier with lacquer than poly.


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## sbwertz (Dec 15, 2016)

I ordered the Bob Smith Industries medium odorless.  It came Monday and I gave it to her Tuesday at the Center and it worked!  No allergic reaction.  She is going to order some of the thin to go with it.  Great stuff.


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## edstreet (Dec 15, 2016)

Bsi supergold is the only stuff I use anymore. You can do miracles with the stuff.  It's flex and very good.


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## rd_ab_penman (Dec 15, 2016)

I use MINWAX WBOM Polyurethane using my Dipping Method. Easy to apply resulting in a consistent, fast drying finish that is as durable as any CA finish.

Les


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## MTViper (Dec 16, 2016)

its_virgil said:


> I wonder how many who express their liking for various fraction polishes have seen pens after a year or so of use? Shellac picks up moisture and oils from handling. My experience has been pens darken with age after use. Just my observations. I am not a fruition polish fan for items that are used. Friction polishes do seem to hold on items that set and are not used or handled daily!



I've got several pens that were finished with friction polish and have been in regular use for several years.  Yes, they darken and absorb oils and such.  The shine is not bright any more but more of a matte finish.  I like that look, though.  The patina that comes with wood that has been handled has always appealed to me.  I'm not a fan of the plastic look of CA or poly finishes.  That's why we have options, though.

Steve


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## leehljp (Dec 16, 2016)

MTViper said:


> Yes, they darken and absorb oils and such.  The shine is not bright any more but more of a matte finish.  I like that look, though.  The patina that comes with wood that has been handled has always appealed to me.  I'm not a fan of the plastic look of CA or poly finishes.  That's why we have options, though.
> 
> Steve



I love the patina of well worn wood, but the history of well worn patina-ed wood is not one of darkness from sweating hands and dirt. Well worn patina's beauty is not dark but shows the brilliance because it was cared for and cleaned and waxed. (Some woods darken from aging but that is different.) Generally when wood gets dark from use - that is due to dirt and oily hands and lack of caring, cleaning and waxing.


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## sbwertz (Dec 16, 2016)

rd_ab_penman said:


> I use MINWAX WBOM Polyurethane using my Dipping Method. Easy to apply resulting in a consistent, fast drying finish that is as durable as any CA finish.
> 
> Les



Unfortunately, it is not practical in the classroom situation at the Center for the blind.  We need something they can wipe on and finish in  a few minutes...each student has only about an hour to complete their project.


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## TellicoTurning (Dec 17, 2016)

MTViper said:


> its_virgil said:
> 
> 
> > I wonder how many who express their liking for various fraction polishes have seen pens after a year or so of use? Shellac picks up moisture and oils from handling. My experience has been pens darken with age after use. Just my observations. I am not a fruition polish fan for items that are used. Friction polishes do seem to hold on items that set and are not used or handled daily!
> ...



One of my favorite pens is also the very first I ever made... It's Olive wood, not BOW, and if I remember back those 15+ years, it only has a single coat of the HUT wax 2 part friction polish.... I've used it pretty steadily since I made it and it's showing a darkening of the wood, but also a nice patina shine from the oils in my hands... the tip is ever so slightly out when closed because the transmission got pushed too far - I've learned how to fix this, but never fixed this pen - I'm not unhappy with the finish and look of the pen at all.


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## TonyL (Dec 17, 2016)

I just won some craft coat...may give it a try on bottle stoppers .Ed Brown produced a very good video using it.


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