# Has Anyone Used These Products ?



## tgraytn

Has anyone used these products?  If so, what were the results?  











It is my understanding that it is better to use the Gloss Sealer first and then the Super Gloss.

Again, I am anxious to hear if anyone has used these and what were your results.

Thanks,

Tom


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## epson

I have had good success with these products.  The sealer is shellac.  These can be put on in mutiple coats after each prior coat is dry.  The coats dry quick if you use it as a friction pollish.  The supper gloss is a thined lacquer.


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## tgraytn

Jack,

Does the "Super Gloss" provide a true deep gloss?  Also, is it durable and does it last?

Thanks!

Tom


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## epson

The super gloss is a lacquer, and I have good luck with using 4 coats.  I have been using the same pen for two years and the finish is holding up.


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## tgraytn

Thanks Jack!


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## JerrySambrook

My daily use pen is finished with Wood-Writes version of the same stuff.
It is a year old next week, and still looks good.

I do recomend this

Jerry


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## tgraytn

Thanks Jerry!


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## epson

The stuff that Jerry uses is sold by the manufacturer, and costs less.  The finish is repackaged for PSI, which increases the price.  The cans are the same, only the lables are different.


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## tgraytn

Do you have the contact information for Wood Write?  Thanks!


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## epson

The product is called "Turners Magic"
www.woodwriteltd.com/turnmagi.htm


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## RichB

It sounds like the finish will hold up but does it have the deep shine like 20 coats of thin ca.  I am trying to get away from ca.  I can't believe it is good for you after a time.  When I could smell, it was bad.  Thanks RichB


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## tgraytn

Rich,

I agree with you on trying to get away from CA.  If it will produce the same deep luster as CA, then I can't wait to try it.


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## epson

The lacquer is slow to build.  I usually use 2 coats of the sealer and then 4 coats of the gloss lacquer.  It has a nice shine, but not as much as ca does.  I have never tried to put on 20 coats of the finish.  It is not a substitute for ca.


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## RichB

Thanks Jack I might still try it. The price is right from the manufacturer.


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## tgraytn

Rich,

Be sure to let us know your results if you purchsae it before I do.

Thanks,

Tom


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## epson

I have never had a return in five years of using this product.  I have had returns for bad transmissions though.


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## RichB

Tom, I sure will and thanks for letting us know about this product.  I plan on ordering it today.  CA is bad.  I will find out if this has a bad smell also.  I know lacquer has a strong smell too.


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## tgraytn

I called Wood Write Friday morning and this morning and received a voicemail.  I have left 2 messages at 717-646-0102

Does it normally take a few days to get in touch with them?

Thanks!

Tom


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## tgraytn

F.Y.I.  Terry with Wood Write called me this evening and took my order.  He said that he would ship it tomorrow.  I will post my results...


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## mrcook4570

My experience is that it is only marginally better than shellac based friction polishes, which, for me, is not good enough for pens.


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## RichB

I just got a call tonight from Terry and it is on it's way. Use the phone number at the top of the site and leave a msg. He said he doesn't have a person answering the phone all the time.


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## doeringr

I'm intrigued by this product.  Would love to hear about the application process, dry times, etc.  Let us know how  it works!  Thanks!


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## JerrySambrook

The Wood Write system actually has three products in it.

     The Gloss Sealer has a wax, and is not really recomended for pens where they would be handled often. It puts a great shine on small turnings that are not handled often.
     There is a semi-gloss, that can be used alone, and is recommended for any build-up, as it contains a lot of solids. I have finished using this as a base and build coats, and a few pens where a deep shine would actually hurt the final product.
     Then there is the gloss as well.  When initially put on, it does not look like there is much there, as there isn't. However, after it has flashed and cured for 24, you can buff it like any other finish, and it shines. I mean SHINES. with lots of depth. It just does not appear that it will when you first apply it.

As for application:
    A small rag/clean paper-towel (I personnally still use cloth, but make sure not to wrap it around anything) folded over tofour to six thicknesses. Have your lather running, shanke the can, uncover, and QUICKLY tip can with rag on openning. You CAN apply too much at once, just like CA. Wipe/rub in on surface with lathe running, and polish. The reason for the thickness of cloth is to prevent heat from penetrating too far into your fingers. You can do multiple coats during the same session of application, just like CA, just make sure you have polished it in prior to going to the next coat.
    Let it sit for 24 before final polishing, etc.

Hope my simple explanation is ok, but if not, let me know, and will try to figure out a better, more detailed explanation.

Jerry


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## tgraytn

Jerry,

This information is great!  I can't wait to get it and try it.  I will keep everyone posted.

Thanks Again!

Tom


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## dankc908

Am I to understand that one would use - 1st the Sealer, 2nd the Semi-Gloss, and 3rd the High-Gloss?  I am trying to order 1 can of each but I can't get through to a live 'being'.  I, also, am not getting my voicemail messages returned.  Are there other ideas besides posting my credit card # in an e-mail?

Dan


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## RichB

Hi Dan, I just received my three cans today.  It took about a week after I ordered it.  He talked to me on the phone at the end of the day and that is when I told him the Credit Card Number.  I would never leave one in a E-Mail.  He said they are moving their shop to a smaller place so I would keep leaving him a Voice Mail.  After I use it I will show and tell the results.  RichB


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## tgraytn

I received my order today as well.  As Rich said, I will post my results also when I have a chance to use it (hopefully within a day or so).


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## tgraytn

O.K.... I couldn't stand the fact that I had 2 pen blanks waiting on me to apply the finish coupled with the fact that I received the WoodWrite CN-11 & CN-17 finish today.  So needless to say I headed to the shop and got started.  Here is my experience tonight:

I have a set of African Blackwood blanks that I had previously turned for a Statesman pen.  They have been sanded from 600 grit to 12000 mm.  Tonight I started by placing them in the bushings and mounting them between centers.  I applied a small amount of denatured alcohol to a scotts towel and rubbing it back and forth on the pen blank while the lathe was turning at a medium speed in order to clean them before I applied the finish.  

I then applied the CN-11 Sealer per the instructions listed on their website and the can.  Again, I used the Scott paper towel, applied a very small amount of the sealer by holding the rag against the open cap of the can and then rubbed the blank back and forth until it started heating up from the friction.  My lathe (Jet Mini Variable Speed) was set at #5 (high speed).  Just as they say, it goes on very smooth and dries very fact from the friction.  I did this 3 times (applying 3 coats).  The blanks really had a great gloss to them!

Now I applied the CN-17 Super Gloss the exact way that I did the CN-11 Sealer in the step above. WOW ...  The gloss that these have after just 3 coats are absolutely stunning!!!  I then rubbed the blank (while spinning) with a piece of cotton cloth from an old t-shirt.  Afterwards the blank is not sticky at all... just very smooth and VERY glossy!  

By the way, my heat has been on low so the shop was only 53 degrees.  I will try to get a few pictures to post tomorrow.

Conclusion:  As of the present, it is more than I expected and I am definitely a Happy Customer!  I look forward to reading the other results.


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## nava1uni

In reading the information on the Wood write site.  He states that he wouldn't use the sealer on pens, but only on turnings that don't get handled much. He suggests using the semi-gloss and gloss on pens.  He says that if you allow the semi gloss to cure overnight and then apply the gloss that you get an even deeper shine.


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## tgraytn

I spoke to Terry at length regarding what I needed in order to acheive a gloss and durable finish to pens.  He suggested that I use the CN-11 Sealer first and follow that with the CN -17 Super Gloss.  That is exactly the process that I used and the results were phenomenal!


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## dankc908

Many thanks for the review.  I'm still waiting for him to call/e-mail me back and then I'll order as well.  Looking forward to an alternative that I can use 'year-round'.

Dan


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## tgraytn

Dan,

I can't believe it is taking him so long to get in touch with you...  Maybe you will hear from him soon.


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## dankc908

I got the order placed today.  I'm looking forward to trying it.  Had a great visit w/ Terry, as well!

Dan


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## witz1976

Any photos of the finished pens yet?


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## dankc908

Not me - not yet - I'm anxious to see what Tom has done!


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## PaulDoug

Any body know the shelf life of these products?  It would take a long time to use up that much.


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## RichB

I said I would post a little review on this product so here goes. I used a piece of Chestnut cut on an angle to show a little end grain. First, I sanded to 600 then mm to 1200. Second, cleaned with Denatured Alcohol, then 3 coats of the Semi Gloss, then 3 coats of Super Gloss. I put it on with my Rikon at top speed and wiped each layer on, back and forth fast, until some heat came through 6 layers of tee shirt. It went dull first, then out came the shine. I let it sit over night then tried PlastX on it to maybe get more shine, but it took off the shine and some of the coating. Three coats isn't much so then I went right to putting on 3 more coats of high gloss the same way as before and the original shine came back. I am real happy with the shine with 3 coats. The pen feels like wood and not plastic. The shine is not as deep as several coats of CA but it is OK considering only 3 coats. It was fast drying and easy to put on even in a 60 degree basement. I posted a picture of the pen in Show off Your pens. I will be using this product. RichB


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## lwalden

Can any of you folks who are using this product comment on how hard and durable a finish this is? In particular, I'm wondering if it holds up to the elastic band/strap test. I loved the finish I got while doing dipped lacquer, with the exception that the finish would mar if held tight to materials- so the little boxes with the elastic strips/bands would leave an indention in the finish if left in place for more than a day or two, and when using the leather portfolios with the wider elastic straps, I'd end up with pens stuck to the leather/pleather interior if left in for a few days- and this was with pens that had cured for a month or more. I don't care for the CA fumes, but until I can find an alternate that has a more durable finish, I'm going to be using CA. Any feedback on the durability of this finish would be appreciated!


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## Wild Ed

How strong of an odor does it have?  Does it have a nasty odor like lacquer?


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## RichB

Ed.  I have lost most of my smell and taste but my son (Buzzzz4) was right next to me at the time and he said it had a little smell but nothing like CA with Accel.  He said he liked it.  I could smell a little of it but not much.  My smell is coming back very slow.  My house cabinets were sprayed with Lac.  and that was real bad.  This was nothing like that. RichB


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## witz1976

Rich, I saw the photo.  It looks nice, the finish seems to be a bit softer in gloss compared to CA.  How does this finish feel?  Does it have a plastic y finish?


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## RichB

No it doesn't feel plastic at all.  I have always been a CA man but I think I will change on some pens. So far I still like the deep look of 20 coats of CA, but I am a little worried about using it all the time.  I haven't tryed several coats of this on a pen yet but it will be comming.  I think more coats will help.  Like someone else said this is thinner than CA.


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## JerrySambrook

Lyle,
     As to the elastic band test, I cannot really answer. However, I have two that are now just over one year old and are used every day. This can be confirmed by Eric (holmquer) as we work about fifty feet from each other (poor him). They are both in excellent shape still.

Ed, 
     As far as the smell goes, The Gloss Sealer has a faint odor, the Super Gloss has a slightly stronger odor. The Semi-gloss that I got has a VERY strong odor. I can smell it pretty well, even from about 25 feet away, and my sence of smell (and other sence as well) is not the best out there. So, if you cannot take lacquer-type fumes well, then it might bother you.

Jerry


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## razor524

Hey guys,
Any follow up, good or bad on this?  I was thinking of trying it out but thought I would ask since some time has now passed since this was originally posted.


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## JerrySambrook

Ray,
   I still would recommend it highly except:
I did waste a couple of wasted wood blanks.
It looks great initially, but then the solvent does react with the acrylic after a few minutes (overnite before I observed the first time, about 30 minutes when I went looking for the issue.
The shine starts out real nice on the acrylic, but then does dull out as the solvents "eat" into the acrylic. The wood postion of the blanks stayed great though.

So, my recomendation is great on all properly prepared wood, but not so when the acrylics are present.

The blanks did not go bad, but the shine definitely went away in the acrylic areas.

Jerry


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## vwnw

*Finishes*

Hi Tom,

I have not used those products but I have used  Shallac and laquer.  I do not recommend shellac!  It is fast and easy but is a soft finish and does not provide a long lasting finish in my opinion.  Laquer or CA will give a longer lasting finish.  I don't care for any speciality finishes but rather just some good old Deft Laquer or CA with Rennasance wax for all my kit type projects.  Mineral oil for my cutting boards, etc etc.  Hope this helps, Vince


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## Bezdomni

I have recently tried Turner's Magic on some bottle stoppers and it worked great for me.  I've never liked the CA process although the CA/BLO process video on YouTube intrigues me some.  Still, I'd prefer to stay away from the fumes.  YMMV.  I have also never applied 20 coats of anything (but my hat's off to those who do) so I can't say how that might change my view.  I intend to use TM when I make my next batch of pens.

My current TM finishing process goes like this:

1.  Sand to 600 grit, then 12000 mm.  [Note 1:  I have learned to use a very light touch with MicroMesh.  If you don't, you can use a little alcohol to remove the melted-on plastic and you won't have to re-sand.  DAMHIKT.]

2.  Two coats of sealer.  [Note 2:  I currently apply finishes (and that alcohol thing) with two squares of premium toilet paper, folded over twice.]  Continue application for 15 seconds or so after you feel the heat, keeping your fingers moving over the piece.  Watch for the application rings to go away and the shine to be consistent across the piece.  You'll know.

3.  Two coats of Semi-Gloss applied the same way.

4.  Two coats of Gloss applied the same way.

5.  Assemble, then take in to show darlin' wife.

I don't say that this is the best finish or the best way to apply it.  We all get to choose.  I do say that it worked pretty well for me and I'm going to stay with it, at least for now.  I'm open to a better way but I'm also reminded of the maxim "Don't let the pursuit of the great get in the way of the good."  This method is simple and it works well and I don't notice any noxious fumes at all but more sensitive noses might.  It meets all my requirements.

All the usual disclaimers, of course.


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## jttheclockman

Have we found out what the base product is???  Is it a shellac, lacquer, poly or a combination????  

There is no better finish for wood than lacquer for a deep shine and that includes CA. Ask Russ, he is our finish expert. Now laquer will not hold up as well as CA but it can be reapplied as well as CA. It also does not leave a plastic feel to it. Have always loved Deft lacquer but over the years the smell has gotten to me so I switched to a waterbased lacquer. But with pens I still use straight CA and to combat the fumes I do not use that annoying acclerorator stuff. That stuff is obnoxious. I use straight CA but have my dust collector on and it draws the fumes away with no problem.


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## JerrySambrook

It is a lacquer based product.
It is definitely not shellac


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## AeroClassics

You guys have confirmed what I suspected and what I knew from furniture work. Lacquer makes and excellent finish, if you want to put the work into the job. For lacquer to really "shine" and give you the wet deep as a pool look it _*MUST*_ be rubbed out. Ask any of the luthiers or furniture guys. In the furniture world the use 2 grades of pumice  followed by Rottenstone. Properly done and the end result looks like to can swim in it! If you put on several coats of lacquer, let them cure, and the wet sand with MM all the way out you will get the same result. You can use soapy water, paraffin oil or even mineral oil for the rub out. If you are a traditionalist then use pumice and rottenstone. Just be careful that you run your lathe slowly so you don't buff away the finish. Heck, old Turtle wax No. 7 would work just as well for rubbing out.

Doug


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## monophoto

I just used the super gloss this morning on a walnut seam ripper.  It does apply easily and dries very quickly.  I put on four coats in a matter of a couple of minutes.

Yesterday, I did another walnut seam ripper using a BLO/CA finish.  

In comparing the two, the friction finish is not quite as dark, and the grain of the wood is not as prominent.  The implement with the friction finish 'feels' like wood, while the version with the CA feels very plasticky.  Obviously, the BLO/A is very glossy, while the friction finish is more matte.  Distinctly different - both nice in their own way.  You pays your money and takes your choice.

I read somewhere that you can get the same results at lower cost with a DIY mixture - 1/3 lacquer, 1/3 DNA, and 1/3 BLO.


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## nativewooder

I use Deft Brushing Lacquer thinned 4 to 1 with Lacquer Thinner.  I apply multiple thin coats with cloth pads and set aside to cure for a day to a week and then buff with White Diamond and then Renaissance Wax.  If not enough depth, then I put on more coats as it only takes a couple of minutes.


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## georgestanley032

It sounds like the finish will hold up but does it have the deep shine like 20 coats of thin ca. I am trying to get away from ca. I can't believe it is good for you after a time. When I could smell, it was bad


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## jttheclockman

georgestanley032 said:


> It sounds like the finish will hold up but does it have the deep shine like 20 coats of thin ca. I am trying to get away from ca. I can't believe it is good for you after a time. When I could smell, it was bad




That thread was from 5 years ago. 

Try odorless CA. A little more expensive but worth it if the fumes bother you. I would also switch to med ca after the first couple thin coats. Save money that way. You could also try Pen Turner's finish. There is a thread here somewhere about its use. Do a search for it. In fact I remember 2 such threads just recently. Should not be hard to find. Good luck.


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## maxwell_smart007

Wouldn't dewaxed shellac and lacuqer be cheaper?


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## Smitty37

If you like a nice finish on wood that still looks and feels like wood, the product works well.  Wood Write might have gone out of business.  But PSI still has it.  There are both gloss and semi gloss available and full gloss is now using three steps.


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