# How do you do that???



## cacardon (Dec 27, 2011)

So I am on this site quite a bit and I see everyone but me making these segmented pents with what looks like metal accents. What is that? some kind of metal foil? Where can I get some?
Thanks 
SSgt C.

This is not my pen but it shows what I want. Not the scalops but the silver lines.


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## bensoelberg (Dec 27, 2011)

The easiest and most common way to get the aluminum is to crack open a cold one.  Most of what you see is aluminum from a soda can.  Just cut it to size, sand the paint off, and glue it into place.


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## alphageek (Dec 27, 2011)

Lots of options ... Soda cans, metal flashing, aluminum of just about any kind from any craft or hardware store.....


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## PenMan1 (Dec 27, 2011)

Ace Hardware here sells brass and "silver" door shims and kick panels. They are 5 inches wide and 12 inches long. Here, they are available in 5 thicknesses, from 1/32 inch and up. These are cheap, flat and easy to manipulate.

As Dean suggests, if you are not willing to spend the money on the shims, or have plenty of time, an aluminum beer or soda can will do in a pinch. 

I prefer the look of brass dividers (and have better luck with brass staying glued to a variety of materials), but the aluminum ones look good, too. I always use ScotchBrite pads to rough up the surfaces before glue up.


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## eldee (Dec 27, 2011)

bensoelberg said:


> The easiest and most common way to get the aluminum is to crack open a cold one.  Most of what you see is aluminum from a soda can.  Just cut it to size, sand the paint off, and glue it into place.



If you use cans, you may also want to remove the interior coating  before you glue it.


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## alphageek (Dec 27, 2011)

eldee said:
			
		

> If you use cans, you may also want to remove the interior coating  before you glue it.



Yes!!! If you try cans, you must remove the protective layer from both the inside and out or there is NO way the glue up will work!


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## islandturner (Dec 27, 2011)

http://www.whimsie.com/index.html

This company sells every kind of laminating metel you can think of...


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## cacardon (Dec 27, 2011)

with all these diffrent metals are there any problems with turning them? I am thinking of using a 2 part apoxie to glue them in place. Anything else I need? What thickness would work the best or does it matter?


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## randyrls (Dec 27, 2011)

You can also use thin plastic sheet sold as guitar pick guard material.  It comes in many colors and even banded colors (ie. black /white / black)


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## PenPal (Dec 27, 2011)

Why not ask Wiset who made that pen I call it from the horses mouth. He is a great guy and if you go to the library you find this info chapter and verse.

Have success,

Kind regards Peter.


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## firewhatfire (Dec 27, 2011)

I use aluminum flashing from lowes.  100 pack of 5x7 sheets about $10


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## Parson (Dec 27, 2011)

cacardon, I've also discovered that segments should be glued up after you've cleaned each piece with denatured alcohol. Additionally, I am shifting away from medium/thick CA to gluing the segments with 5 minute epoxy, which seems to promote long-term adhesion between mixed mediums such as aluminum and wood or plastic.

Get some small clamps, scraps of material, a disk sander, and give it a try! It's an ugly mess just before you turn it though. Your wife will not be impressed until after the pen is finished. Just sayin'


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## wiset1 (Dec 27, 2011)

cacardon said:


> So I am on this site quite a bit and I see everyone but me making these segmented pents with what looks like metal accents. What is that? some kind of metal foil? Where can I get some?
> Thanks
> SSgt C.
> 
> This is not my pen but it shows what I want. Not the scalops but the silver lines.


 
Hi Charles,

Since I made the pen you posted, perhaps it's best that I address the question for you. It has already been noted that just about anything can be used for accents, but if you're looking to use Brass or Aluminum you're better off walking away from the can option. I know others swear by it, but after many turns I just can't seem to keep a clean line with the can materials.

The pen in question uses a .025 thick sheet of aluminum purchased at Lowes for $7. You can also pick it up at The Home Depot or search Amazon...honestly; you can get this stuff anywhere, just do a search and find a thickness that works for you. When working with this material I'll sand both sides and use a Medium CA to secure it to the other materials. A note of caution...Aluminum likes to heat up and will break down the CA glue. As a result the bond may break so a clear 5 minute expoxy may be the best option. This is what I'm planning for my next series of pens to be safe (Thanks for the info Randall). Still finish the blank with CA, but bond with epoxy

Here's the link to my tutorial: http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89931  I know you're more interested in the material, but the concept for the segmenting is the same when looking at the steps.

Feel free to PM me with any questions you might have and I'll be more than happy to help. From one SSG (Army) to another SSgt (Marine) I can square you away and make sure you're able to come up with something really cool looking.

Take care and best wishes...Happy New Year!


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## Ruby pen turning (Dec 27, 2011)

Hobby Lobby, Ace Hardware.. You can ge different thicknesses along with rods and tubes. Then just draw it on paper or make it up as you go. Be prepared though to do several re glues along the way as heat is CA`s enemy. This is a blank I made months ago with several different thicknesses of aluminum and some brass along with some copper tubes. Not the most uniform (none of mine are yet)but the pen I used it to make sold for what I consider quite a bit.


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## wiset1 (Dec 27, 2011)

Ruby pen turning said:


>


 
Brian,

That's crazy  Like a thousand times more difficult than the stuff I do!!!  Good to see it in raw form...helps others see what it takes


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## PenMan1 (Dec 27, 2011)

If you wife cuts up your credit cards, they also make interesting accent pieces. DAMHIKT


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## PTsideshow (Dec 27, 2011)

To add the beer and soda cans have a very nasty epoxy coating on the inside to keep the contents tasting good. And on the outside so the printing can't be removed. Seems a number of years ago they were stripping the printing off the outside of the cans and re printing one of the big dog brands like coke on them and selling them in foreign countries. So about the only way it will come off is by using a wire type brush or abrasive paper. 
You also can find aluminum flashing trim in 10 foot coils 4"/6" wide and up at the big box home stores. 
Copper and brass foils and embossing sheets can be found at the big box crafts stores.
Most of the larger hobby stores sell K&S shapes,tubing and sheet metal stainless, brass, copper and aluminum they have flat stock from 1/8" wide and up in 12" long pieces.
You can also check any stores that sell scrapbooking materials.
The plastic pick guard material is the same stuff that is used as the engraveble sign and name tag material and a lot cheaper
:clown:


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## PenMan1 (Dec 27, 2011)

PTsideshow said:


> To add the beer and soda cans have a very nasty epoxy coating on the inside to keep the contents tasting good. And on the outside so the printing can't be removed. Seems a number of years ago they were stripping the printing off the outside of the cans and re printing one of the big dog brands like coke on them and selling them in foreign countries. So about the only way it will come off is by using a wire type brush or abrasive paper.
> You also can find aluminum flashing trim in 10 foot coils 4"/6" wide and up at the big box home stores.
> Copper and brass foils and embossing sheets can be found at the big box crafts stores.
> Most of the larger hobby stores sell K&S shapes,tubing and sheet metal stainless, brass, copper and aluminum they have flat stock from 1/8" wide and up in 12" long pieces.
> ...


 
FWIW:
Furniture stripper and a wire brush will take the coating off the inside and the paint off of soda cans. BUT, the "good" furniture refinishing paste is so expensive that it is more economical (not to mention, less work) just to buy the stock that you are talking about.


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## kevrob (Dec 27, 2011)

Tim, this might be a silly question, but how do you safely cut the pen blanks length wise? I can do the cross cuts, but am worried about keeping all fingers when I cut it down the length. I have been wondering that since I saw your work for the first time...which is awesome by the way....


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## IPD_Mrs (Dec 28, 2011)

randyrls said:


> You can also use thin plastic sheet sold as guitar pick guard material. It comes in many colors and even banded colors (ie. black /white / black)


 
If you use the celluloid sheets material colors like blue, red, green, pearl, black, tortoise, abalone .. etc. are also available.  Actually pretty much any colors are available I think.

Linda


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## IPD_Mrs (Dec 28, 2011)

PenMan1 said:


> If you wife cuts up your credit cards, they also make interesting accent pieces. DAMHIKT


 
ROFLMAO.  Should we take Christy's scissors away Andy?

:biggrin::wink:


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 28, 2011)

alphageek said:


> eldee said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I've done it before with no sanding whatsoever. You can even still see parts of the printing on the outside of the can on the outer edged of the celtic knot I did it with. I wouldn't recommend it, however....






You can kinda see it in a couple of areas.


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 28, 2011)

kevrob said:


> Tim, this might be a silly question, but how do you safely cut the pen blanks length wise? I can do the cross cuts, but am worried about keeping all fingers when I cut it down the length. I have been wondering that since I saw your work for the first time...which is awesome by the way....



I use push sticks. I don't care if a push stick gets its finger cut in half lengthwise!


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## butchf18a (Dec 28, 2011)

most informative and interesting thread I've read in long time. Read the tutorials and look forward to trying something new. Thanks all


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## jaywood1207 (Dec 28, 2011)

kevrob said:


> Tim, this might be a silly question, but how do you safely cut the pen blanks length wise? I can do the cross cuts, but am worried about keeping all fingers when I cut it down the length. I have been wondering that since I saw your work for the first time...which is awesome by the way....



Bandsaw or scrollsaw work for me.  If you have a big enough blank and can stand to lose the material in the kerf from a tablesaw then the tablesaw will give you better results.  Of course as somebody else mentioned use a pushstick.


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## kevrob (Dec 28, 2011)

Allan, do use a table saw with a push stick? I have tried my bandsaw as Jamie suggested, but can't seem to get it dead-on straight. It's almost like my bandsaw blade likes to go off path


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## Drstrangefart (Dec 28, 2011)

kevrob said:


> Allan, do use a table saw with a push stick? I have tried my bandsaw as Jamie suggested, but can't seem to get it dead-on straight. It's almost like my bandsaw blade likes to go off path



In my experience, bandsaws take some skill and a little luck to get a dead perfect lengthwise cut. You can also use push sticks with the table saw. Paint stirrers make great ones. Just cut notches in the ends to set on the end of the blank. The ones for 5 gallon paint buckets work best. You can also buy lots of different professionally made push sticks. I never use a table saw on anything smaller than 5 or 6 inches wide without push sticks. I need to be as far away from the blade as I can get. And you WILL either want a thin kerf blade or a wide-@$$ blank.


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## PTsideshow (Dec 28, 2011)

IPD_Mrs said:


> If you use the celluloid sheets material colors like blue, red, green, pearl, black, tortoise, abalone .. etc. are also available.  Actually pretty much any colors are available I think.
> 
> Linda



A word of caution about the real celluloid, it is highly flammable and also easily decomposes. 

They now are using polyester compounds as an alternative to celluloid.
The plastic laminate sign and badge material is available on line. The other drawback to using pick guard material sold for the instrument makers. Is the over the top they charge. 
Since as pen makers most will be used as a accent on the edge. the  laminate edges show the colors. You also can get it in almost any colors and numerous thicknesses.
:clown:


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## Dalecamino (Dec 28, 2011)

If you want to put a little art into it, try this.....

http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/curved_metal_segmenting.pdf


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## wiset1 (Dec 30, 2011)

dalecamino said:


> If you want to put a little art into it, try this.....
> 
> http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/curved_metal_segmenting.pdf


 
Good tutorial, but I wonder about getting that perfectly snug fit on the segment when doing rounded cuts?  The final turn looks awesome, but for me the gaps really throw me.  Would additional sanding allow for the removal of the gaps between accent material and wood???  Need a scroll saw now:biggrin:


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## whegge (Dec 30, 2011)

I have also used plastic from laundry detergent bottles, motor oil bottles, mini blinds and other stuff I have forgotten.  

As for what metals can you turn, any of the softer metals will work.  The thicker it is the harder it is on your tools and you will have to sharpen them often.  If you use pieces that are real thick then you might want to think about using carbide tipped tools.

My wife hates it when we are out shopping and all of a sudden I am not around her and looking at something we do not need.  She asks me why am I looking at it and I say "Wonder if this will work in a pen?".  She just shakes her head and walks away. 

So keep your eyes open.

Wes


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## RickLong (Dec 30, 2011)

Great thread... I appreciate all the posts!

Rick


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## 76winger (Dec 30, 2011)

Yes, some good information and inspiration!


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## Dalecamino (Dec 30, 2011)

wiset1 said:


> dalecamino said:
> 
> 
> > If you want to put a little art into it, try this.....
> ...


Tim, sanding IS important as well as bending the metal without kinking it. You want a snug fit WITHOUT squeezing out all your glue. I tried cutting these with a scroll saw but, acrylics melted to the blade. Then, I got a 1/8" blade for my band saw. Works great. Hope I answered your question.


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