# Kitless Pen Material Choices



## Robert111 (Feb 6, 2012)

Later in the spring I intend to try kitless pens and I'm thinking about materials.   

I've looked around in the libraries a little without much success. Can someone tell me about the difficulties of putting threads on typical pen-making materials like poly resin, acrylester, Ebonite, TruStone, M3 Mokume, and alternative ivory. And how about woods? Are there any that can be threaded? 

What should a beginner start off with? What should be avoided?

Thanks for your help!


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## studioso (Feb 6, 2012)

ebonite is best, acrylics are great too, although not all are the same, polyresin, polyester and lucite (mostly the clear and translucent kinds) are much harder. 
most woods are difficult to thread with standard tap & dies, although threads can be machined.


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## soligen (Feb 6, 2012)

Polyresin can be tough - may vary depending on the caster.  Alumite and Lucite (or generic equivolent) work well.

Even in Alumilite and Lucite, I have noticed that the more opaque colors are a bit more finickey than the ones that are sort of transucent.


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## Brooks803 (Feb 6, 2012)

PR is very difficult to thread but is doable. Alumilite, Acrylic Acetate, Ebonite, Lucite, & even Corian thread easily. Not to mention all the various Italian resins that are imported and sold by several vendors. Of course then you have the rare materials like Bakelite & Cebloplast that we all drool over. 

Skippy & Mike Redburn come to mind with the threading of wood (well worth a search!). 

Then of course you have your metals that CAN be turned with standard wood tools. Brass and Aluminum. Also lost wax casting with silver (another Mike Redburn search!).


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## Robert111 (Feb 7, 2012)

Robert111 said:


> Later in the spring I intend to try kitless pens and I'm thinking about materials.
> 
> I've looked around in the libraries a little without much success. Can someone tell me about the difficulties of putting threads on typical pen-making materials like poly resin, acrylester, Ebonite, TruStone, M3 Mokume, and alternative ivory. And how about woods? Are there any that can be threaded?
> 
> ...





studioso said:


> ebonite is best, acrylics are great too, although not all are the same, polyresin, polyester and lucite (mostly the clear and translucent kinds) are much harder.
> most woods are difficult to thread with standard tap & dies, although threads can be machined.



_Thanks, Alex. I assume by "harder" you mean harder to thread?_



soligen said:


> Polyresin can be tough - may vary depending on the caster.  Alumite and Lucite (or generic equivolent) work well.
> 
> Even in Alumilite and Lucite, I have noticed that the more opaque colors are a bit more finickey than the ones that are sort of transucent.



_Thanks, Dennis._ 



Brooks803 said:


> *PR is very difficult to thread but is doable.* Alumilite, Acrylic Acetate, Ebonite, Lucite, & even Corian thread easily. Not to mention all the various Italian resins that are imported and sold by several vendors. Of course then you have the rare materials like Bakelite &* Cebloplast* that we all drool over.
> 
> *I believe your gorgeous blanks are poly resin, right?*
> 
> ...



_Yes, I've turned aluminum pen barrels with a round nose scraper but never brass. I may try these. _

_I have quite a lot of Ebonite that I got real cheap ($9 a ft. for 16mm rod).* Would you say start with that?*_


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## BRobbins629 (Feb 7, 2012)

With the proper techniques, any of the materials you mention can be threaded.  All depends on your method.  If you plan to use taps and dies, you may want to start with a material like Delrin which is very easy to thread.  While it may not have the appeal of ebonite, its a great material to make prototypes from, a lot less expensive than many alternatives and will give you a chance to develop the techniques and dimensions for your designs.  Note too, that when you find a material that threads easily for you, it can be used as an insert in any of the harder to thread materials.


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## BSea (Feb 7, 2012)

I've done very little threading so far, but the very worst has been poly resin without any mica powder (silmar 41).  I poured some solid black using the opaque dye.  I tried several times to cut some threads, and it broke every time.  I didn't even come close to finishing a piece.  I had previously cut the same size threads in PR (with MICA powder for color) with some difficulty, but it was doable.  From now on I'll use alumilite or some other resin other than silmar 41.  It just isn't worth the hassle.


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## Robert111 (Feb 8, 2012)

BRobbins629 said:


> With the proper techniques, any of the materials you mention can be threaded.  All depends on your method.  If you plan to use taps and dies, you may want to start with a material like Delrin which is very easy to thread.  While it may not have the appeal of ebonite, its a great material to make prototypes from, a lot less expensive than many alternatives and will give you a chance to develop the techniques and dimensions for your designs.  Note too, that when you find a material that threads easily for you, it can be used as an insert in any of the harder to thread materials.



Thanks Bruce. Glad you mentioned using inserts.


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## Robert111 (Feb 8, 2012)

BSea said:


> I've done very little threading so far, but the very worst has been poly resin without any mica powder (silmar 41).  I poured some solid black using the opaque dye.  I tried several times to cut some threads, and it broke every time.  I didn't even come close to finishing a piece.  I had previously cut the same size threads in PR (with MICA powder for color) with some difficulty, but it was doable.  From now on I'll use alumilite or some other resin other than silmar 41.  It just isn't worth the hassle.



Thanks Bob. I'm not familiar with these various poly resin mixes. I'm not into casting. Of course I do have a box of scrap resin blanks of various kinds, most of which are scrap because they're so homely. Others are sizable pieces left over from some project. I think I'll start with them and the delrin.


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## dogcatcher (Feb 14, 2012)

I used to watch the sales at places like Woodcraft, a few years ago they put acrylic blanks on sale for 99 cents.  I bought as many as I could afford, I probably bought more than I will ever need, but at 99 cents I have lot of material to try on every conceivable idea I can dream up.  They work good enough for experiments in new areas.  Some even turn out good enough for gifts and sales.  I have drilled and tapped with fine and coarse threads, using SAE and metric along with a few of the special order tap and dies.  

Will they ever turn into a $100 pen?  Doubtful, but anything is possible, some of these are good looking blanks, others are as ugly as can be.   But I only have 99 cents plus a little for shipping in each project I mess up.   As to the $100 pen, these cheap blanks, not likely, but the ideas created with them have.


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## PenMan1 (Feb 14, 2012)

What's wrong with aluminum or brass? Very easy to work, easy to embellish, simple  to segment, easy to thread and doesn't look just like 3000 other pens.


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## Robert111 (Feb 15, 2012)

dogcatcher said:


> I used to watch the sales at places like Woodcraft, a few years ago they put acrylic blanks on sale for 99 cents.  I bought as many as I could afford, I probably bought more than I will ever need, but at 99 cents I have lot of material to try on every conceivable idea I can dream up.  They work good enough for experiments in new areas.  Some even turn out good enough for gifts and sales.  I have drilled and tapped with fine and coarse threads, using SAE and metric along with a few of the special order tap and dies.
> 
> Will they ever turn into a $100 pen?  Doubtful, but anything is possible, some of these are good looking blanks, others are as ugly as can be.   But I only have 99 cents plus a little for shipping in each project I mess up.   As to the $100 pen, these cheap blanks, not likely, but the ideas created with them have.



Good suggestion! Thanks!


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## Robert111 (Feb 15, 2012)

PenMan1 said:


> What's wrong with aluminum or brass? Very easy to work, easy to embellish, simple  to segment, easy to thread and doesn't look just like 3000 other pens.



Right, Andy. I've turned aluminum tubes a couple times but I know now my speed was too slow. Someone posted a comment about turning aluminum at 3000 + . That would do away with my biggest complaint about that material--sooooo slow!

You caught my interest when you said segmenting aluminum and brass was simple. I need to search IAP for examples of segmented aluminum or brass pens--sounds nice.

Would you suggest a supplier other than Enco? That's the one I usually see mentioned here. 

Thanks, Andy!


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## PenMan1 (Feb 15, 2012)

You can buy a 3 foot -5/8 round aluminum rod at HD/LOWEs/ or almost any hardware store for about $5-$6. Some of the bigger hardware stores have 3/4 diameter for less than $10.

All of the local welding shops here have bar stock on premises. I can usually buy what I need locally. I have a sales tax number, do I can buy it locally for less than on the Internet after shipping is applied.

Also the library has some nice metal segmenting tutorials and one even has "scroll patterns". To me, using someone else's scroll patterns make the pen "not totally" your own work or not unique... But still a good way to practice


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## Robert111 (Feb 15, 2012)

PenMan1 said:


> You can buy a 3 foot -5/8 round aluminum rod at HD/LOWEs/ or almost any hardware store for about $5-$6. Some of the bigger hardware stores have 3/4 diameter for less than $10.
> 
> All of the local welding shops here have bar stock on premises. I can usually buy what I need locally. I have a sales tax number, do I can buy it locally for less than on the Internet after shipping is applied.
> 
> Also the library has some nice metal segmenting tutorials and one even has "scroll patterns". To me, using someone else's scroll patterns make the pen "not totally" your own work or not unique... But still a good way to practice



All great to know. Thanks Andy.


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## 691175002 (Feb 15, 2012)

Watch what alloy you buy.  Most hardware store aluminium is gummy.

You want 6061.  Pretty much any aluminium that comes from a metals supplier or machine shop will be good.


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## Lenny (Feb 15, 2012)

Is the aluminum bar from HD/Lowes the 6061?

Are they usually tagged with that info?


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## PenMan1 (Feb 15, 2012)

Lenny said:


> Is the aluminum bar from HD/Lowes the 6061?
> 
> Are they usually tagged with that info?



I buy it in rod form and it is marked. I don't recall the numbers, but it cuts smooth, threads easily and polishes to a blinding finish.


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## TerryDowning (Feb 15, 2012)

I just picked up 2 1 ft sections of 5/8" 6061 aluminum rod an 3 ft of 1/8" from a local metal supplier's recycle pile fro 2.76 a pound. $6 out the door incl sales tax. 

It was way more for aluminum rod at Lowe's I want to say $12?

Hope to try some soon.


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