# makeing pen blanks from green wood?



## Dutra (Nov 18, 2011)

A month or 2 ago an osage orange on my street came down in a storm, I managed to grab a branch or 2 and was wondering if I should let it dry out before cutting it into pen blanks or do so now while it is still green? If I do it now should i make them a little thicker than usual? 

Thanks,
-Dutra


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## Justturnin (Nov 18, 2011)

You can get a Gallon of DNA (denatured Alcohol) and a paint pail & lid from you local big box. Cut them to at least 1"sq x 5.5" and soak them in DNA for 24-48 hours. Take them out and let them set in some shade for about an hour then wrap them in newpaper (Black and white not Color) and they should be ready in about a week or two. If you have a postage scale you can weigh the bundle every couple of days and when they stop losing weight they can be cosidered dry. I would unwrap then and weigh them all individually and track it for a couple more days to be sure.


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## nava1uni (Nov 19, 2011)

If you make them while green without any type of drying they will warp and they the wood won't be good for anything.


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## toyotaman (Nov 19, 2011)

If you want to use "Green" wood for pens on the same day there is a simple solution. I do it and haven't had a problem. Cut your blank to 1"x 5.5" and put them in the microwave for 1 minute (it's good to have an old one, since the wife would probally get mad for using hers) . Take it out and let it cool for about 30 min. Repeat this process 4-5 times. Some wood might need an extra zap in the microwave. Your blank will dry and probally warp a little. After that run it through the tablesaw and straigten it out. It should be dry and ready to turn. I do this process with alot of blanks that have some nice figure and I cannot wait for the natural drying process.
     Donny


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## Justturnin (Nov 19, 2011)

toyotaman said:


> If you want to use "Green" wood for pens on the same day there is a simple solution. I do it and haven't had a problem. Cut your blank to 1"x 5.5" and put them in the microwave for 1 minute (it's good to have an old one, since the wife would probally get mad for using hers) . Take it out and let it cool for about 30 min. Repeat this process 4-5 times. Some wood might need an extra zap in the microwave. Your blank will dry and probally warp a little. After that run it through the tablesaw and straigten it out. It should be dry and ready to turn. I do this process with alot of blanks that have some nice figure and I cannot wait for the natural drying process.
> Donny



Like.,.

I do something similar but use my old shop toaster oven at about 125degrees for an hour then let it cool in the oven.  I don't have a microwave in the shop yet.


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## Dutra (Nov 19, 2011)

Im not worried about waiting to use the blanks, I just wasnt sure if I should cut it and let them dry or leave it whole to dry and cut the blanks later.


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## Justturnin (Nov 19, 2011)

I would at least remove the pith from the logs and coat the endgrain with ancorseal or unscented candle wax to help prevent checking. Then you can store them until your ready.  You will need some sort of drying process because even in 2 years the wood will still be somewhat wet and it really dry for pens.


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## Wildman (Nov 19, 2011)

Cut your blanks and end seal until wood reaches EMC.

Would just let any Osage wood air dry.


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## robutacion (Nov 19, 2011)

Dutra said:


> A month or 2 ago an osage orange on my street came down in a storm, I managed to grab a branch or 2 and was wondering if I should let it dry out before cutting it into pen blanks or do so now while it is still green? If I do it now should i make them a little thicker than usual?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Dutra



The smaller the wood size. the quicker will dry, naturally...! therefore, the very first thing you should do with those logs is cut them 11" long (makes to blanks in  length), then rip it through the centre (pith).  If you only want to make straight cut pen blanks, regardless of log diameter, rip the halves in half again and rip everything at about 22 to 25mm square (counting for shrinkage).  

If you want to make X (cross) cut blanks, you need ripped boards at 135mm wide, so depending of the log diameter, you have to consider this.  If you want to cut Z (diagonal) blanks, those boards need to be 115mm wide, these are all measurements for green wood preparation/processing.

If you think the wood is prone to warp/twist badly while drying, you can deep the blanks in a good wood stabiliser and then stack them up to dry.  This is where, the warping/twisting will happen and the best way to minimise this phenomenon, is to have the blanks strapped tight in such way that they can still have some air circulation in between them, accelerating the drying process, considerably compared to stack the blanks on top of each other , touching each other on all sides...!

I call these drying piles, "portable drying stacks" (pic attached) as you can move them easily around the shed/work shop.

*Attention:* - Do NEVER put these racks (drying blanks) out in the sun...!:curse: not a good idea...!:frown:

Good luck.

Cheers
George


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## Hess (Nov 19, 2011)

Forgive me but what the heck is the Pith?


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## Displaced Canadian (Nov 19, 2011)

Hess said:


> Forgive me but what the heck is the Pith?



I'm pretty sure it is a cool way of saying tree sap.


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## robutacion (Nov 19, 2011)

Hess said:


> Forgive me but what the heck is the Pith?



Well, as they say, a pic worth a thousand words...!:wink:

Cheers
George


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## toyotaman (Nov 20, 2011)

robutacion said:


> Hess said:
> 
> 
> > Forgive me but what the heck is the Pith?
> ...


 
       That picture should sum it up. If you do not remove the "Pith" your log will most likely crack from that point. I use my chainsaw and slice about an inch out of the middle to assure the pith is removed before sealing.


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## KenV (Nov 20, 2011)

Hess said:


> Forgive me but what the heck is the Pith?



The center of the tree/branch has a softer center core called the pith

Radial cracking goes into the pith


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## bitshird (Nov 20, 2011)

Osage is a very slow drying wood, you do need to remove the Pith Depending on the size of the branches, I would try and remove 1 inch on either side of the pith, then you will also have some 2 inch turning stock,, All you waste is roughly a 2x2 center square, Coat he Osage ends with  a good sealant such as Anchorseal, or melted Paraffin wax, the wax can be bought at most grocery stores. If you cut the remainder into 1 inch boards, and place them with air circulation the will dry in about 12 to 18 months.


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