# Issues with drilling blanks



## timmy68 (Feb 21, 2017)

I'm pretty new to the pen making world and I need to know what are the best drills to use for drilling blanks?  I bought some drills from FTM, Inc., for use on acrylic and plastic blanks.  They work real good.  On wood blanks, I've heard brad points are good.  Some people like pilot point bits.  Some just use the standard 118 degree jobber drills.  Which would be best?  How do I keep them drilling straight?


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## randyrls (Feb 21, 2017)

timmy68 said:


> On wood blanks, I've heard brad points are good.  Some people like pilot point bits.  Some just use the standard 118 degree jobber drills.  Which would be best?  How do I keep them drilling straight?



Timmy;  No, brad points are not better.  You cannot sharpen them, and they put more stress and heat on the blank.  Use regular 135° bits.  For acrylic blanks, cut the barrel long and drill only to the required depth so the tube will fit into the hole.  Then cut the blank to length.


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## magpens (Feb 21, 2017)

In the beginning I bought Norseman jobber drill bits ... I have never regretted my choice.

I would recommend that you do your drilling on the lathe.


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## leehljp (Feb 21, 2017)

There are lots of things that in the ordinary world of drilling that don't work very well in drilling blanks for pens. In a 2x4 board, into a sheet of plastic, into metal, there are specialty bits. 

But in pen blanks, you don't want heat build up. The blank is small, narrow, no bulk around it like in a 2x4 board or in a large sheet of plastic. The thin blank will be affected by heat, both plastic resin and wood. The thinness of the blank means less bulk around it to keep it intact, therefore "blowouts" and cracking occur when it wouldn't in normal bulky medium drilling circumstances. The type of bit used in bulky situations where heat is not too much of a problem can devastate a blank.

Ergo, what is common in the normal world of drilling is not what necessarily works in small blanks. The fellows above gave some good advice.

Drilling straight: If you can, use the lathe as mentioned. Are you using a drill press? And do you have a pen vice? GET a good one if you don't, Clamp down the pen vice on the press; don't let it move. Take small bites, in and out, in and out, in and out. Even on the lathe, take small bites and remove, small bites and remove. The bits do not eject the material at a very good rate, so that is the reason for small bites and remove. a build up of material will get hot and cause all kinds of trouble.


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## kevrob (Feb 21, 2017)

I could not agree more with Mal - drill on the lathe.  I made the mistake of purchasing a drill press when I got started to make sure I could drill in the center each time.  The drill press was not the answer to my prayers that I thought it would be.


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## Bikerdad (Feb 21, 2017)

One thing to keep in mind regarding drilling wood blanks.  99% of the advice that is given for drilling in wood is directed towards drilling into long grain.  99% of your drilling of wooden pen blanks will be END GRAIN.  The dynamics are very different, which is why brad point bits, superb for long grain drilling, aren't the bee's knees.  They'll do the job, but not enough (if at all) better to justify the higher cost and great difficulty sharpening.  Yes, they can be sharpened, but doing it right either takes a GREAT deal of skill and some specialized equipment, or some very expensive specialized equipment.


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## timmy68 (Feb 21, 2017)

Thanks.  I've been saving money for a Nova chuck with the changeable jaws to do my blanks.  Right now, Iv'e been using a small drill press.  Not real stable.  I do have a vise for drilling, however.


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