# Just another way of making a pen



## Texatdurango

In another thread I said I would share some pen making techniques via PM but more folks expressed interest than I thought so I decided to just do it in a post instead.

To begin with if there is one thing you take away from reading this, it is the hard and fast rule that there are NO rules to follow! I see posts everyday where someone is asking about what taps they are supposed to buy, which drill bits they are supposed to use, which mandrel to buy and so on. These are not kits so quit thinking “Kit assembly” and start using your imaginations. One reason for sharing my way of doing pens is to show there is NO shopping list, there is NO right or wrong procedure, there is NO diagram showing how part “A” attaches to part “B” and there are NO boundaries other than your imagination.

I took a photo this morning of some pens I will be displaying at an upcoming show in the hopes of selling a few. If you notice there are a lot of similarities but no two pens are 100% identical, and the only thing in common is that none of them use brass tubes anymore. I used acrylics, truestone and ebonite. Some have sterling silver trim, some have titanium. There are homemade clips, there are clips from kits. There are different methods used to attach clips and different types of nib front sections and nib sizes, some are "factory"sections, some are hand made. The point in showing these is that they are all unique with subtle differences and no rules were followed in their designs. I have dozens of taps, drills and gadgets for making dozens of those "subtle differences" so telling you to turn to a certain diameter, drill a hole using bit "X" then thread using tap "X" just doesn't work and will only frustrate you. 








Now that the stage is set, let’s begin. I want to share a method I use to turn a pen without using mandrels, just a collet chuck. Remember... do what floats your boat and NOT try to make a 100% copy of someone elses work, you'll be glad you did!

*Step 1.* I start with either buying a round blank or turning it round and chucking it in my Beall collet chuck. I like the Beall chuck over other chucks mounted on mt-2 shafts because I can insert a 5" blank quite a way into the chuck for more accurate holding. 





*Step 2.* I turn it down to the approximate size of the finished barrel; we’ll call it 5/8”. Then I turn a tenon for the threads.





*Step 3.* Using a die holder with a mt-2 shank mounted in the tailstock I thread the lower “multi-start” threads by HAND TURNING the lathe. Left hand turning the spindle, Right hand gently pushing in the tailstock.






*Step 4.* Using a home made check gage I make sure the threads work smoothly.





Step 5. Using a short center drill I mark the center for drilling. I think this is VERY important and never omit this step (Oops, there's a RULE )





Step 6. I start drilling the lower barrel using different size bits to allow clearance for the front section to screw into as well as a Schmidt converter.





Step 7. The last drill just about all the way in. Note my little red shop aid? I leave it on just to give a bit of support to the exterior threads during drilling. May or may not help but it’s pretty and I made it so I use it! Note the depth marks on the drill bit? I use those riligously! Darn it, another RULE! 





Step 8. Once the barrel is drilled out I tap the body to accept the front section. A light shot of cooking oil makes threading easy and leaves clean shiny threads in acrylics (soapy water for ebonite). Notice I don’t mention the tap size, that’s because you can use any tap you want depending on the size of pen you are making and the section you are using, remember, there are NO rules right!





Step 9. I simply insert the tap into a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock and HAND TURN the lathe. Remember, Left hand turning the spindle, Right hand gently pushing in the tailstock.





Step 10. I clean out the inside of the barrel then thread in the fron section and converter that I will be using to make sure everything works fine with plenty of room. Now is the time to catch any problems.





Step 11. At this point I have a barrel ready to go, almost! Note that up to this step, I have not removed the blank from the collet chuck for any reason. It is rock solid and true as can be.





Step 12. I remove the front section and wet sand the blank with 400, 600, 800 and 1000 grits. Then polish with plastic polish. Remember to stay away from the threads!





Step 13. Now I remove the blank from the chuck and actually have a working pen… sorta! All I have to do now is cut the blank to the length I want, change collet sizes to one that fits the smaller body diameter and reinsert the body back into the chuck "head first" and turn down the “fat” end.  You will note that the top of the lower body is fairly straight.  This allows the blank to be reinserterted back into the collet chuck.  If it were turned "Fat" as some like their pens, this would not work as the blank would wobble in the chuck.  I only taper the tail end of the blank.





Step 14. With the “nib” end held by the chuck I turn down and taper the bottom of the barrel. If I want a "postable" cap, I turn down the tail end a bit more to fit into the cap. Remember that I already polished the top of the barrel, now I polish the lower end, overlapping the front end a bit. When removed from the chuck I simply take it to the buffer and buff the whole barrel at once and I'm done. Be careful chucking the blank and you will have no chuck marks to deal with.





Well, there you have it, one way of turning a pen with just a collet chuck, I hope this helps shed some light on the subject and gives you some ideas on how you can start on your masterpiece without buying a handful of specialized mandrels. Here is the finished pen (the cap just sorta happened by magic and will be another topic soon!) :biggrin:…….


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## TomW

Well done George!

Tom


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## cnirenberg

George,
Well done indeed.  This is a great way of showing the steps necessary.  I really like the looks of your pen display on the first pic, you should do well at your show.  I gotta get a collet chuck....


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## Rollerbob

Way to go George. Nice tutorial and very well illustrated!!:wink:


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## PTJeff

Bravo!
I think that this process should have your name on it and posted in the library.
I don't think I would have thought to turn a portion of the barrel, flip and do the other portion.  Way to "think outside the box"


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## Whaler

That is a great tutorial George.


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## wood-of-1kind

Great TUTO George. If this does not make into the IAP library then there's something wrong with 'learnin stuff'.


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## Texatdurango

You know, the most important thing I have learned about this little exercise is that taking photos of a white pen is tricky and I suck at it! :biggrin:

Now I'm off to the shop to make the caps for those capless pens in the photo!


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## TomW

Texatdurango said:


> You know, the most important thing I have learned about this little exercise is that taking photos of a white pen is tricky and I suck at it! :biggrin:
> 
> Now I'm off to the shop to make the caps for those capless pens in the photo!


 
Please take your camera!

Tom


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## rpearson

Great instructions, illustration and out-of-the box technique!  Can't wait for you follow up on making the caps.  Very Well Done!


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## PTJeff

especially the silver rings!


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## altaciii

great tutorial, George.  The possibilities are endless, as you said.  Thanks for sharing.


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## Russianwolf

Nice work George...

Those inspire me to keep at it.


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## BigguyZ

George,

Thank you so much for this insight on making something above and beyond the standard kit pens I've been doing.  I really would like to evolve into doing something like this, so seeing this tutorial is a great way to shorten the learning curve!

A couple of questions, if I may.  Where do you buy ebonite?  I haven't found any sources online, and the idea interests me.  Also, where do you buy the front section?  Or is that all found in the Fountain Pen area?

Thanks Again!  I'm eagerly awaiting the follow up regarding the caps!


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## Texatdurango

BigguyZ said:


> George,
> 
> Thank you so much for this insight on making something above and beyond the standard kit pens I've been doing. I really would like to evolve into doing something like this, so seeing this tutorial is a great way to shorten the learning curve!
> 
> A couple of questions, if I may. Where do you buy ebonite? I haven't found any sources online, and the idea interests me. Also, where do you buy the front section? Or is that all found in the Fountain Pen area?
> 
> Thanks Again! I'm eagerly awaiting the follow up regarding the caps!


I  will PM you.  I hope this thread stays focused on the discussion of actually making pens rather than degrading into plugs for various vendors.  The classifieds are full of ads and I hope that's where those discussions stay.


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## Texatdurango

I was asked about turning curved bodies so I edited step #13.

The collet chuck will hold the blank true as long as it's the same diameter or close to it.  If you like to turn fat or curvy pen bodies this whole method may not work since re-chucking the blank to turn the tail end would result in the blank wobbling on you.  You could do it but a mandrel would need to be used to hold the blank to turn down the tail end.  Nothing wrong with that, it just adds another step and another tool.


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## SonOfMartin

I'm most interested in the cap - and the clip - photos (and tutorial).


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## stolicky

Good job, and thank you.  Losing some of the kit parts (especially the tubes) has been a future project in the making for a while now.  You definitely pushed me a little closer to going down that road....

Looking forward to the cap - and yes, this should go into the library.

Thanks again.


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## fernhills

Thanks, that clears up the muddy water, should one might want to go that way in the future.  Carl


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## JDenney

*Thanks!*

Thanks for the great info! I have been wanting to make pens less 'kit like' and more inspired by some of the classic fountain pens, and this is just the push I need to go that direction. Birthday coming up and SWMBO is getting me a Beall Collet Chuck! 

Looking forward to the next installment.


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## mbroberg

Thanks for sharing this.


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## turnero

thanks for sharing


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## JohnU

Being a "kit" pen turner that I am with no knowledge on kitless work, I really appreciate you posting this.  I have wanted to try new ideas and this is just what I needed to take my hobby to the next level.  Thank You!


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## thewishman

George, thank you!


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## rstought

George....

As one of the many who expressed interest in hearing about your pen-making tips and techniques, let me add my thanks for taking the time to create such an insightful and comprehensive post.  It provided a wealth of information for both the neophyte and experienced pen maker...


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## el_d

Great tutorial, Thanks George.


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## Jim15

Thanks George. The group of pens you show in the first photo are awesome.


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## nava1uni

George,
  Thanks for the information.  Very informative and instructive.  I like thinking outside of the box and this tutorial is certainly fear dispelling.  One more piece of material to add to my library for reference.
Thanks again.


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## joeatact

Great article! Thanks for doing it and helping us all to learn new ways of doing things.


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## johncrane

Good one George!


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## skiprat

Excellently written and shown!!!! And a damned fine pen too. :biggrin:

Looking forward to seeing Part Two too:biggrin:


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## Dalecamino

Very well displayed George . Thanks for the effort . Look forward to the second half .


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## Texatdurango

Wow, did I do that good of a job explaining things? 

With many members asking about the ins and outs of making a pen like this in other threads and forums I would have thought there would have been at least a few questions or comments that needed discussing. Or some of the other more experienced turners might have some suggestions for me.


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## Rollerbob

Texatdurango said:


> Wow, did I do that good of a job explaining things?
> 
> With many members asking about the ins and outs of making a pen like this in other threads and forums I would have thought there would have been at least a few questions or comments that needed discussing. Or some of the other more experienced turners might have some suggestions for me.


Nah, can do it in my sleep now!:yawn:


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## JJturns

Thank you very much George for taking the time to post this in such great detail.  I really like the freedom that is afforded by making a kitless pen.  I’m just starting and use several of the same methods you do.  *I love your first rule – there are no rules!*

I also want to commend you on your continued selfless attitude toward everyone here and the freedom with which you share information, a real sign of a truly secure craftsman!  I look forward to learning more about the clips as I am still not happy with mine.  The pens you make are always outstanding and so are your explanations.

Thank you,
JJ


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## Druid

Excellent tutorial George, thanks for sharing.


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## skiprat

Texatdurango said:


> Wow, did I do that good of a job explaining things?
> 
> With many members asking about the ins and outs of making a pen like this in other threads and forums I would have thought there would have been at least a few questions or comments that needed discussing. Or some of the other more experienced turners might have some suggestions for me.



George, I did have a suggestion but didn't want to state it:redface: 
but since you asked...:biggrin:

You said that when threading, you push ( albeit gently ) on the tailstock to advance the tap into the blank. I assume that you are just using the chuck and not a tap holder ( like your die holder )
I do it like that often too, but there needs to be some very careful removal of the tap too, ( I'm sure you know already )you can't just pull on th TS and unwind the headstock or you risk ripping out the first few threads from the blank.
An alternate method ( if you don't have a free spinning tap holder ) is to remove the locking screw from the tailstock quill and let the chuck spin.
If you do it on a metal lathe ( like me ) you simply advance the TS quill till it disengages from the hand crank. Doing it like that means you only have to hold the headstock with your left hand and do the threading with your right hand.:wink:

I hope you're not gonna make us stay up all night waiting for the Cap??:biggrin:
It's 10.30pm here already and I turn into a pumpkin at midnight:biggrin:


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## handplane

Thanks for posting this.  I'm in the planning stages of doing a couple of pens like this.  Surprisingly I was going to do things very similar to what you did.  The pictures really helped clear up some of the questions I had.


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## PTJeff

"I would have thought there would have been at least a few questions or comments that needed discussing"

Well George, that depends upon what the caps and bands look like...


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## Texatdurango

skiprat said:


> George, I did have a suggestion but didn't want to state it:redface:
> but since you asked...:biggrin:
> 
> You said that when threading, you push ( albeit gently ) on the tailstock to advance the tap into the blank. I assume that you are just using the chuck and not a tap holder ( like your die holder )
> I do it like that often too, but there needs to be some very careful removal of the tap too, ( I'm sure you know already )you can't just pull on th TS and unwind the headstock or you risk ripping out the first few threads from the blank.
> An alternate method ( if you don't have a free spinning tap holder ) is to remove the locking screw from the tailstock quill and let the chuck spin.
> If you do it on a metal lathe ( like me ) you simply advance the TS quill till it disengages from the hand crank. Doing it like that means you only have to hold the headstock with your left hand and do the threading with your right hand.:wink:
> 
> I hope you're not gonna make us stay up all night waiting for the Cap??:biggrin:
> It's 10.30pm here already and I turn into a pumpkin at midnight:biggrin:


 
Skip,

I'm glad you brought this up, this will save someone from ripping their threads out.  When I tap the threads I insert the tap into a chuck in the tailstock to insure correct alignment and gently push the tailstock in while rotating the spindle with the left hand.  But when I withdraw the tap I loosen the chuck to release the tap, move the tailstock out of the way then slip a tap handle around the tap and hold it steady while moving the spindle backwards.  Usually about halfway out the tap can be removed with the fingers.

I learned the hard way about tugging on the tailstock and ripping threads out!

About the cap, don't hold your breath, I've got to get a few pens ready for next weekend so will be a few days before I'll have time to take photos of a cap construction.


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## mrburls

George, enjoyed your informative tutorial on threading and kitless pen turning so far. I just attempted my first try at threading a few days ago and was successful at it :biggrin: Your advise on pushing the tailstock while hand turning and how to remove tap was reasuring knowing I did something right before reading this thread. Not sure why I did those things but made my first attempt a success  

Can't wait till you show us how you do your caps. Mainly the clips. How you attach them to the cap.  

Gret job so far George 

Keith "mrburls"


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## gwilki

The other have said it very well. Fine work, George. Thanks for showing your methods. I've had some problems with the threading in the past, so I start the threads the same way that you do, then disconnect from the tailstock and use a hand holder to continue the threading. Not knocking your way in any sense, just sharing my minor modification.


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## Texatdurango

Thanks for the kind words guys, I finished a few lids for the naked pens in the first post. I took a few photos while making then so when I get to it, probably this afternoon, I'll post part two of this little exercise.

Here are the lids I made today.


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## gwilki

They all look great, George.


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## Reb

Hi
Well I;ve ordered a die holder and chuck for my lathe. I'm going to try a Gentleman II.
Where can I get the thread sizes? I've got all kings of taps but pen has very little threads to work with.

Thanks
REB


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## PTJeff

George,
did you see the new clips posted last weekend at Elliot's site?  The Deco one would look sharp on the green cap with the black finial.
http://www.penmakers.com/images/deco-clip.gif


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## hunter-27

I bow to the master, I will no longer be showing anything I do in here, just not cool enough anymore. :wink:


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## Texatdurango

PTJeff said:


> George,
> did you see the new clips posted last weekend at Elliot's site? The Deco one would look sharp on the green cap with the black finial.
> http://www.penmakers.com/images/deco-clip.gif


 
You caught that little detail did you!  Keen eye! 

I saw those clips but the look a little rough in the photo.  I think I've tried all of his clips but like the little rolling balls the best.  The ring fits my cap size just right.


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## PTJeff

George,
The quality always catches the eye.  Your work always has.


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## Manny

George,

I know that you did not specify tap and die size intentionally however based on my research specific tap and does are needed for each nib holder and cap if using kit hardware like internal threading. Sooooo my question is are you using the group buy tap and dies to replicate the threads required for the cap and are you using Lou's taps and for the internal threads of the nib holder?

If not would you mind sharing where you are buying your nib holders and compatable taps and what size tap and dies you are using for the internal cap and external body threads. 

Thanks, Manny


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## Manny

OK here is my guess. Seeing that the nib you are using says Dayacom I am guessing you are using a M10 x 1 tap and a El Grande nib holder and nib. 

The cap and body can be just about anything but I will guess  1/2 x 36tpi

Wink once for yes twice for no


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## Texatdurango

Manny,

For the threads where the cap screws onto the lower body I use the multi-start tap and die set which was part of a group buy in 2008. This size thread works perfectly for the size of pens I make. I used a 1/2” x 20 for one of those Sharpie pens and it worked fine so I don't see where a 1/2” x 36 wouldn't work just well for the average size pen.


As far as sections go, Berea sections with feeds already installed are readily available so I bought a good supply of them. Kit nibs as well as the nibs Lou sells both fit these feeds just fine. 


To tap the internal threads in the lower pen body to accept these Berea sections, I find the 10mm x 1mm tap works just fine although it is not a perfect match.


That said, as I use up the Berea sections I don't plan on ordering any more because they are only good for rubber cartridges or ink converters. Instead I have chosen to use one nib/feed/housing supplier for my pens and make custom sections for them. This way I will use one nib, one feed and one housing so the sections will all internally be the same and I can concentrate on the section lower ends whether I am making a bulb filler or button filler or just using a converter.


I chose to go with Lou since he supplies the tap for both his large and small feed housings and has a good quantity of housing/feed/nibs available in both steel and gold, large and small.


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## Manny

thanks George

Manny


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## rstought

George...

Are you using Lou's large or small feed housing when you make a custom section that will be used with a cap threaded with the multi-start tap?  The reason I ask is my own experimentation has shown that there are some pretty tight tolerances in play when the large housing is used, and this has resulted in the creation of some thin-walled, shapeless sections that are not suitable for use.


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## Chuck Key

Someone please post a link to Part II.

Thanks
Chuckie


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## bitshird

Great tutorial George, I like the no rules part, remember rules were made to be broken, or at least bent to the left...


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## Texatdurango

rstought said:


> George...
> 
> Are you using Lou's large or small feed housing when you make a custom section that will be used with a cap threaded with the multi-start tap? The reason I ask is my own experimentation has shown that there are some pretty tight tolerances in play when the large housing is used, and this has resulted in the creation of some thin-walled, shapeless sections that are not suitable for use.


 
I use about 70% small and 30% large.  Something to consider.... take a look at how the housing for the large feed is shaped, then see how much of the forward section you can remove, which will give you just a little thicker wall sleeve and a decent shape.


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## rstought

George...

Thanks for the tips, and for confirming my findings that the large housing IS just a wee bit too large (unmodified, as it comes from the vendor) for my particular application.

I'll give your suggestions a try...


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## ahoiberg

I know this is belated, but nice write up George.


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## KingBentley

Texatdurango said:


> BigguyZ said:
> 
> 
> 
> George,
> 
> Thank you so much for this insight on making something above and beyond the standard kit pens I've been doing. I really would like to evolve into doing something like this, so seeing this tutorial is a great way to shorten the learning curve!
> 
> A couple of questions, if I may. Where do you buy ebonite? I haven't found any sources online, and the idea interests me. Also, where do you buy the front section? Or is that all found in the Fountain Pen area?
> 
> Thanks Again!  I'm eagerly awaiting the follow up regarding the caps!
> 
> 
> 
> I  will PM you.  I hope this thread stays focused on the discussion of actually making pens rather than degrading into plugs for various vendors.  The classifieds are full of ads and I hope that's where those discussions stay.
Click to expand...


I hope you don't mind, but I'm curious myself.


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## Manny

I tried a 12mmx 1.25 and the OD was not large enough for the el grande Nib holder. Had to shave it down


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