# Tip: Gluing up Acrylic Blanks



## Bree

Here's a tip that will save you some headaches.  Make sure to shoot some accelerator down the inside of your blank before you insert the tube if you glue up with CA.  You can spin the blank and even do a little back and forth pushing to evenly distribute the glue before it sets up if you use thick CA.

Why accelerate the blank?  Well the reason is that CA usually gets the curing process started by grabbing some moisture from the blank when you do a wooden pen.  Even a dry blank has 7-9% moisture which is enough to trigger the curing of the CA.  An acrylic blank has ZERO moisture unless you put it there.  

It's possible to have the ends cure from moisture in the air but the center of the blank is still liguid CA trapped that might as well be in the CA container.  Sometimes the blank will spin if enough force is applied to shear the small amount that actually has cured.  Moistening the inside with accelerator solves this problem.  All the CA cures and you get a nice strong bond.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## steeler fan1

Interesting idea. My fear would be the ca setting up before I got the tube seated properly. I'm certainly game to giving it a try though:biggrin:.

Thanks for the tip.
Carl


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## gingerwood

I've had too many CA tubes set with the tube half in to be comfortable with that idea.


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## Bree

Work fast... know your motions before you do it and zoom zoom... it's in.  Haven't lost one yet.
:wink::wink::wink:


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## jasontg99

Good tip Bree.  But this is why is use epoxy.


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## ed4copies

gingerwood said:


> I've had too many CA tubes set with the tube half in to be comfortable with that idea.



1) Don't use thin for gluing up tubes.
2) Don't glue while the blank is still hot from drilling.
3) If you use fluid to keep the blank cool while drilling, remember water will accelerate the curing process (it can make medium set up while trying to spread the glue--slide in the tube)

If you follow these hints, in ten years of making pens I had about three set before I was ready.:biggrin::biggrin:


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## Wood Butcher

I use the thick CA and have found that if the tube to drilled hole fit is tight, you will have issues if you dilly dally.  Cyanoacrylate dries in the absence of oxygen.  Don't believe it, put some on a couple of tight fitting pieces of anything and press it together and you don't have time to blink before they're stuck.  On your fingers the moisture adds to the speed of irretrievable stuckness.  If you find the tube is stuck half way in, simply use a fine tooth coping saw to remover the protrusion and insert it in the other end of the blank with some CA on it and the issue is solved.
WB


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## t001xa22

I totally agree with WB. Considering that usually the press-fitted mechanism parts only use a small amount of each end to secure themselves, the cut-off and insert to the other end works just about every time. I have rescued several work-ups that way before I learned better ways to glue up.


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## PedroDelgado

Why use CA over Epoxy? Epoxy gives you lots of time to abjust and clean the tube in the inside. Why stress yourself with CA when this is a hobby.
Cheers


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## Lenny

Bree said:


> Work fast... know your motions before you do it and zoom zoom... it's in. Haven't lost one yet.
> :wink::wink::wink:


 

My Dad used to say ...  "I've got one other speed .... but even I am ashamed of THAT one!"  

That is why I use epoxy! :biggrin:


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## Bree

Geeze Lenny... I knew you guys were gonna go for Epoxy.  I'm impatient!!!  Glue it, shoot it, spin it, and go!  That's my way!  

Greek Restaurant tubing... Eat, Pay, Get Out!


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## jppensplus

But if it so happens that the CA sets up with the tube only partially into the blank, you can always cut the exposed tube, then glue the cut off piece in the other end of the blank--nothing lost!!


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## pianomanpj

For a one-off, Bree, I can see the value in that. But I batch-process pens, so I used five-minute epoxy. By the time I have the last tube glued in, the first blanks are more than ready to spin! YMMV


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## pianomanpj

jppensplus said:


> But if it so happens that the CA sets up with the tube only partially into the blank, you can always cut the exposed tube, then glue the cut off piece in the other end of the blank--nothing lost!!



I've only done that once, and even then I hated doing it. The problem is that all the stresses will be taken by the blank at the site of the split; none of the lateral forces of the user will be distributed by the tube. On the pen where I DID have to use that solution (pen blank was one of a kind), I was fortunate enough that it was a slimline and able to flip the blank end for end and use the doctored tube on the finial end. Therefore no lateral stresses when the pen was being used.


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## Bree

pianomanpj said:


> For a one-off, Bree, I can see the value in that. But I batch-process pens, so I used five-minute epoxy. By the time I have the last tube glued in, the first blanks are more than ready to spin! YMMV



These darn production line guys!!  LOL!
:wink::wink::wink:


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## Chasper

If I was sure that all my techniques were the one and only best soulution I wouldn't be here reading about other approaches, so I will give it a try, even though I've never had a problem with CD not curing.  Thanks.

BTW, I'm a production turner, usually 50-100 tubes per batch.  If I were to use epoxy it would take twice as long.  I can't get more than 6-7 tubes glued before 5 min epoxy starts to set, and with slow curing epoxy I always have tubes slide out before setting.  Don't tell me to try taping the ends to keep them from slipping out, that takes time too.  With CA I can glue up a batch of 50 in 10 minutes and start squaring them in an hour.


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## Bree

Chasper said:


> If I was sure that all my techniques were the one and only best soulution I wouldn't be here reading about other approaches, so I will give it a try, even though I've never had a problem with CD not curing.  Thanks.
> 
> BTW, I'm a production turner, usually 50-100 tubes per batch.  If I were to use epoxy it would take twice as long.  I can't get more than 6-7 tubes glued before 5 min epoxy starts to set, and with slow curing epoxy I always have tubes slide out before setting.  Don't tell me to try taping the ends to keep them from slipping out, that takes time too.  With CA I can glue up a batch of 50 in 10 minutes and start squaring them in an hour.



The way I figure it is that once you get the motion, the CA way is the fastest way.  With accelerator in the blank, you can square em almost as soon as you get em to set which is just a few seconds.  I always take a couple of seconds to wipe the CA off my tapered tube holder before I shot the ends with some accelerator.  At that point it is ready to mill though I usually let them set a bit  just to be sure.


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## Wood Butcher

I'm old enough that I don't buy green bananas and that puts waiting on epoxy iffy at best.  Been turning pens for over 15 years and CA is my choice for almost all of the glueing I do in making writing instruments.  I still wonder why old folks drive so slow, they haven't all that much time left so I hurry to git where I'm going.  Do what works for you and I will/have tried about everything that is suggested here and am better at the craft because of it.  Keep the suggestions coming and let's continue to share our learnings good and not so good and above all, smile while you write your posts, it keep us young.
WB


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## sbell111

ed4copies said:


> gingerwood said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had too many CA tubes set with the tube half in to be comfortable with that idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Don't use thin for gluing up tubes.
> 2) Don't glue while the blank is still hot from drilling.
> 3) If you use fluid to keep the blank cool while drilling, remember water will accelerate the curing process (it can make medium set up while trying to spread the glue--slide in the tube)
> 
> If you follow these hints, in ten years of making pens I had about three set before I was ready.:biggrin::biggrin:
Click to expand...

Do you spray accellerant in the blank prior to gluing the tube in?  I suspect that you don't since your advice centered around taking steps to avoid accelerating the CA.


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## animefan

Also if you add pigment to the epoxy you don't have to paint the inside of the blank.


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## ed4copies

sbell111 said:


> ed4copies said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gingerwood said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had too many CA tubes set with the tube half in to be comfortable with that idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Don't use thin for gluing up tubes.
> 2) Don't glue while the blank is still hot from drilling.
> 3) If you use fluid to keep the blank cool while drilling, remember water will accelerate the curing process (it can make medium set up while trying to spread the glue--slide in the tube)
> 
> If you follow these hints, in ten years of making pens I had about three set before I was ready.:biggrin::biggrin:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you spray accellerant in the blank prior to gluing the tube in?  I suspect that you don't since your advice centered around taking steps to avoid accelerating the CA.
Click to expand...


You are correct Steve.  When I teach, I have used accelerant (sprayed AFTER the tube is in place) so we can continue without waiting.  But, when I made pens by the dozens for shows, I glued one day and turned at least a day later, using a thicker (some manufacturers' medium is pretty thin) CA glue.


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## fitzman163

I have used CA to glue blanks 3 times with 3 failures. Its Gorilla Glue  all the way for me.


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## rsulli16

hi
great idea using a copng saw and puting the cut off in the other side !!  
i had a few set up onme like that
thanx
Sulli


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## Ambidex

*ca*

Just curious, anyone ever tried duct tape?:tongue:


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## t001xa22

Another sure-fire way to glue in tubes with CA: always do a dry test-fit the tubes in the blanks before using CA. If you do that, you should not have any unpleasant surprises when the glue insert is done. I have been lucky in that I have not had one premature setup since I started dry-fitting the tube first. The suggestion to shoot some accelerator in the blank prior to insertion is one I will definitely add to my steps. I have also fitted a separate drill bit on common sizes to use only when I have had to color tubes and blanks. This way I can maintain a good tolerance for the CA without exceeding its bridging ability. Just sayin'.


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## chrisk

Sorry guys, when you stain epoxy what kind of painting do you use? Is acrylic OK? Or testors?


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## butchf18a

I've never had one set up early.....opps...I only use epoxy....never mind.


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## drmike

Maybe I have too much time - I usually use polyurethane the night before. I have used thick CA without accelerator a few times. Never had any problems.


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