# Handy tip



## Texatdurango (Sep 7, 2011)

For lack of a better place, I think this might belong here since most owners of metal lathes are doing advanced work.  This was sent me via email and they asked to share and I think it noteworty so here's some quick reading.............
http://email.villagepress.com/pub/HSM/20110907/20110907.html


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## Chuck Key (Sep 7, 2011)

Works with a $20 too, may also work with a $1 or a five dollar bill.


Chuckie


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## BRobbins629 (Sep 7, 2011)

I use a credit card.  A little softer.


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## Dalecamino (Sep 7, 2011)

Thanks George. I was fortunate to have this trick demonstrated to me by Mike Roux and Mike Redburn. It's worth another look and, a good reminder.


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## MarkD (Sep 7, 2011)

Thanks George! I tried it out this evening! Great tip!


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## EarlD (Sep 7, 2011)

BRobbins629 said:


> I use a credit card.  A little softer.



Me too, I have a 1/2" wide strip of credit card handy.  Works as advertised.
EarlD


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## snyiper (Sep 8, 2011)

Thanks George, I have never heard of this and it makes perfect sense.


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## ribanett (Sep 8, 2011)

My dad showed me this trick many, many moons ago. Has worked every time.


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## mson (Sep 9, 2011)

Here is neat alignment trick for lathes :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn7A9PqNftY&feature=related


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## Texatdurango (Sep 9, 2011)

mson said:


> Here is neat alignment trick for lathes :
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn7A9PqNftY&feature=related


 
Now that is one clever tool. I think I'll visit the local hardware store today and see if I can purchase enough goodies to make one.


Nice tip Martin and welcome to the forum!


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## cnirenberg (Sep 9, 2011)

George,
I saw this too and printed it out to keep by the lathe.  Pretty cool trick.


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## Texatdurango (Sep 13, 2011)

mson said:


> Here is neat alignment trick for lathes :
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn7A9PqNftY&feature=related


 
I really liked this tool idea but lack the welding skills or availability other than taking to some local welding shop.  After looking at it a bit I realized I could accomplish the same thing without welding so here is the poor mans alignment tool!.......

This shot shows a square piece of stock, in this case my Dremel tool holder, which I drilled a hole in the end and used a bolt to attach an old band saw bearing.  It actually works GREAT!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Here's another view showing how simple the tool was to make for those "welding challenged" like me.  Pay no mind to the back end of the tool, any square stock would do, this was just handy.


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## Chthulhu (Sep 14, 2011)

Nicely done, George. 

FYI, this process is known as "bump centering."


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## Paul in OKC (Sep 15, 2011)

What is scary is when you are needing to hire a guy who says he has 20 years of experience, and he comes into the shop to make a test piece, and this is how he goes about centering up his tool. Then has to ask fo rhelp when it doesn't cut right. This will work for a lot of things. best results are the tool at or a hair below center. After you set the tool this way, take a face pass on something down to close to center, and see where the tool is compared to the little 'tit' that is left for final adjustment. WARNING, if you tool tip is too low and you face off passed center (in metal) you will very likely break off the tip of the tool.


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## Texatdurango (Sep 15, 2011)

Paul, Thanks for the insight.

This may be too "general" of a question to answer but....... Is there a way to tell by the material coming off or the resultant surface look and/or feel if the cutter is set at the proper height using the a bit with the right angle?


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## Paul in OKC (Sep 15, 2011)

I'm sure there is, but if the tool is too high as the part gets smaller, it will seem like the machine is working harder to cut, because it will start to rub the material below the cutting tip rather than cut. The finish will likely be a bit 'record player'-ish if too low.


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## Texatdurango (Sep 15, 2011)

Paul in OKC said:


> I'm sure there is, but if the tool is too high as the part gets smaller, it will seem like the machine is working harder to cut, because it will start to rub the material below the cutting tip rather than cut. *The finish will likely be a bit 'record player'-ish if too low*.


 
Bingo.......... the 33 1/3rpm  phonograph record is my typical finish(sometimes a 78 rpm), looks like I'm too low then, I'll try raising the bit a bit!


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## bitshird (Sep 15, 2011)

I always have a 6 inch scale in my shirt pocket, you can get the cheap Stainless ones from HF for about a buck, my B&S has decimal to fractional conversions on the back and those suckers are sure handy, even the good ones are inexpensive,


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## Dalecamino (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks for the display George. I like this idea and, will put it to use. Soon as I find a bearing.


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## cwolfs69 (Sep 15, 2011)

*effective center*

just a point to remember. the "center " is the effective center, not necessarily vertical center. Having spent 30+ years in this field i have many times placed the tool above center with a negative rake on the tip. another trick is to run in reverse and put your tool upside down. this helps many times with chip removal and allows chips to fall down out of the way. also helps eliminate chatter at times.  in that case "below center" would actually be above, spatially speaking. Wasn't aware that there were that many guys on here with metal lathes. If anyone needs help in this field, i would be glad to assist. that is one field where i do consider myself an "expert" not a beginner as in pen turning. Engineering, gearing, tooling, fixtureing etc. are all right in my wheel house. Just drop me a pm and i will be more than happy to assist. .


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## Paul in OKC (Sep 16, 2011)

Very good point about the center, Charlie. However, I think most here are using 'flat' tooling. Done this for almost 35 years, and still doing it every day! Still love it!  Only tool I ever ran upside down was on an old W&S turret lathe, had a cut off tool on the 'back side' of the parts being ran. 
 Another thing to think about is the radius on the nose of the tool. A small radius (1/64) will give a better finish than a sharp point on the tool.


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## cwolfs69 (Sep 17, 2011)

Paul in OKC said:


> Very good point about the center, Charlie. However, I think most here are using 'flat' tooling. Done this for almost 35 years, and still doing it every day! Still love it!  Only tool I ever ran upside down was on an old W&S turret lathe, had a cut off tool on the 'back side' of the parts being ran.
> Another thing to think about is the radius on the nose of the tool. A small radius (1/64) will give a better finish than a sharp point on the tool.




you know of course, Paul, most folks in the field today wouldn't have a clue what a "turret lathe" is. all of the cnc makes something like that to much work, actually having to index the head manually, etc. and yeah, your right, not a lot of backside tooling done, but plenty of reverse and upside down to clear weird chips and avoid facial burns. bronze castings come to mind.


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## Paul in OKC (Sep 17, 2011)

cwolfs69 said:


> Paul in OKC said:
> 
> 
> > Very good point about the center, Charlie. However, I think most here are using 'flat' tooling. Done this for almost 35 years, and still doing it every day! Still love it!  Only tool I ever ran upside down was on an old W&S turret lathe, had a cut off tool on the 'back side' of the parts being ran.
> ...



Very true. First 5 years in the trade that's what I ran. Didn't learn cnc until about 12 years ago. Now I manage a shop and get to run both cnc and manual. Last time I saw a turret lathe it was behind a guy's shop under a tarp!


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## Chuck Key (Sep 17, 2011)

Made this one up this morning.  Used a worn out index tool holder and welded a bolt to it to hold the bearing in place.


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## Curly (Sep 17, 2011)

If you have or buy, a single wheel knurl tool that fits your tool holders you can remove the knurl and replace it with a bearing (like from a router bit). Below is the kind I am referring to.

http://www.shars.com/products/view/4848/4x12x12_Single_Knurling_Tool


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