# segmenting with aluminum



## Tecumseh 82 (Mar 13, 2021)

I tried a simple 45 degree segment on a bloodwood blank using poplar veneer between thin aluminum flashing, The veneer held to the aluminum, but aluminum did not to the bloodwood. I scuffed the metal and it still did not hold. wrong wood, wrong metal?


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## magpens (Mar 13, 2021)

@Tecumseh 82
What operation were you performing when the bond failed ? . . I suspect you were probably rounding the blank.


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## mark james (Mar 13, 2021)

Whatcha using...  CA, Epoxy, Wood glue?

I'd recommend 2 part epoxy, let set overnight.


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## Tecumseh 82 (Mar 13, 2021)

I was using mercury CA med and when I was drilling it it on drill press I said some bad words as it broke


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## Tecumseh 82 (Mar 13, 2021)

I just looked below and saw a previous thread o the subject. gives me more ideas


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## studioseven (Mar 13, 2021)

I've had the same thing happen to me but was drilling on the lathe.  I tried with both epoxy and CA.  I believe my culprit was heat from the drill bit loosened the epoxy or glue.  Just a guess.

Seven


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## jttheclockman (Mar 13, 2021)

CA is not the glue when using metals. You have 2 things going against you. Metals which has no grain to absorb adhesive and the bloodwood is a hard exotic oily wood that it to has little grain to adhere. If you are going to have a chance I suggest an epoxy that takes 24 hours to cure. That 5 or 15 minute epoxy does not have the holding strength as 24 hour such as System3 T88. It is the strongest epoxy that I found that I use with segments. I have shown this here before but here is an example of using CA and metal. The next day I went to do another step with these blanks and the scallops fell off in my hand with no pressure or heat applied. Not a fan with CA. Now that is not to say I have not used CA for a blank segmented. In fact I have 2 blanks I am working on right now that all segments are glued with Med CA and the woods are Gabon ebony and holly. One I have already turned and finished and did fine with drilling and sanding and turning. But when I added some trim rings which were aluminum I went back to epoxy. The center blank was 4 parts so there was alot more glue surface. I will show all these pens in April when I get them done.


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## howsitwork (Mar 14, 2021)

thanks for that JT.  I have just laminated up some thin aluminium with mahogany but used ca ( thought that was what was used from reading in here. I usually go with epoxy 24hr , so next one i’ll use that. Haven’t turned 5he blanks  yet


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## jttheclockman (Mar 14, 2021)

howsitwork said:


> thanks for that JT.  I have just laminated up some thin aluminium with mahogany but used ca ( thought that was what was used from reading in here. I usually go with epoxy 24hr , so next one i’ll use that. Haven’t turned 5he blanks  yet


Well it may work because mahogany is an open grain wood. Also it depends alot on the design of the pen blank. If stress is applied it will shear. Good luck.


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## howsitwork (Mar 14, 2021)

I hoped to use it at 45’ accross the blank to give an oblique striped  effect maybe this would not be wise as drilling it will be along part of the aluminium to wood interface??  Your thoughts John ??


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## Tecumseh 82 (Mar 14, 2021)

Thanks JT. I guess I was having too much expectations for the CA. I understand completely the grain to smooth problem,which I didnt think about. Oil in woods are another factor I never thought of. Another reason this family is a great education source. Its like the " University of Pens" for the newcomers.


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## leehljp (Mar 14, 2021)

Bloodwood is one of my favorite woods and I make segments, with mostly brass separators - and I use epoxy. As John T said, don't get the quick set. I do use one hour on occasion. The longer cure is stronger.


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## jttheclockman (Mar 14, 2021)

howsitwork said:


> I hoped to use it at 45’ accross the blank to give an oblique striped  effect maybe this would not be wise as drilling it will be along part of the aluminium to wood interface??  Your thoughts John ??


The problem when using aluminum and segmenting at any angle is when drilling that bit is going in at an extreme angle and more surface of the aluminum is being cut and thus more stress. I am building a blank that has alot of this going on and as soon as I hit it with a drill bit of larger size it blew apart. I have used the epoxy I mentioned but it still was too stressed. I put it on the side for now and reglued and think I came up with a solution to this problem. I will know when I get back to it and I think I mentioned this before here I will let everyone know how and what my solution was. I will take a photo or two. I have since went onto a few other blanks right now and they are coming along nicely. Will cut it off by end of March and post in April. Now this topic was brought up when I started having this problem and a few option were offered like wrapping in Gauze and popsicle sticks, and other things. I will look for the post. Maybe something will help you and you can try. Doing one or two angled pieces may hold up well.


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## howsitwork (Mar 15, 2021)

*Thanks. *I do recall reading the gauze soaked in CA tip. I was intending to use a clamping caul I made with two Vs to support the blank sides as I slowly drill it. Might be as well to use the gauze trick as well.

Just glued up ( epoxy) some 30/60 holly to walnut blanks diagonally cut tonight. I mean 30* cut on one piece and 60* cut on matching piece to ensure blanks remains straight ( and this easier to clamp up !)


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## jttheclockman (Mar 15, 2021)

Here was that thread. or at least one of them.

https://www.penturners.org/threads/trying-the-make-brick-pattern.168814/#post-2108721


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