# Renaissance Wax



## Wheaties (Jan 27, 2010)

I have a large flat piece of wood that will be a clock. I want to finish it with Renaissance Wax after sanding. Should I apply by hand or use a power buffer? If buffer, then what kind? Like a car buffer?

Thanks


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## mrcook4570 (Jan 27, 2010)

What kind of wood is it?  I ask, because if it is a dark wood, the wax will leave a white residue in the pores.  It will in light woods also, but it will not be noticeable there.


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## Wheaties (Jan 27, 2010)

mrcook4570 said:


> What kind of wood is it?  I ask, because if it is a dark wood, the wax will leave a white residue in the pores.  It will in light woods also, but it will not be noticeable there.




It is Tasmanian Myrtle. 

I also have a smaller piece of Red Mallee that I was hoping to use it on as well.


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## Texatdurango (Jan 27, 2010)

Wheaties said:


> I have a large flat piece of wood that will be a clock. I want to finish it with Renaissance Wax after sanding. Should I apply by hand or use a power buffer? If buffer, then what kind? Like a car buffer?
> 
> Thanks


 
I know you didn't ask for opinions so excuse the post if not appropriate but I can think of a dozen waxes to use that would be better than Renaissance wax.

I've been making furniture for close to 30 years now and have used wax finishes on quite a few pieces. I've had great success with the likes of MinWax paste finishing wax which is developed to provide protection to pieces that I just don't see Renaissance wax doing. I started using Renaissance wax on my pens a while back but don't see where it provides any protection other than keeping finger prints to a minimum. I use an 8" buffing bonnet chucked into a hand drill motor when buffing Minwax and would assume it would work as well with Renaissance if there was a thick enough coat to keep you from buffing down to bare wood.

Another benefit is the Minwax is about $7 for a huge can while Renaissance is around $24 for a small 200ml can.

That's my $.02


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## bitshird (Jan 27, 2010)

I think George is right about the best thing to be said for Renwax, it does keep the fingerprints down on pens, and "POSSIBLY" adds a tiny bit of shine but not really discernible, it's really more of a protective surface treatment. I haven't tried it, but I've heard several folks say Kiwi natural paste shoe polish is almost the same thing.


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## nava1uni (Jan 28, 2010)

I use Liberon, Johnson's paste wax for wooden furniture, and other flat work that I make or own.


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## Gary Max (Jan 28, 2010)

Another vote for Johnson's----they have been around forever. I use it on some of my bowls/vases that I want more of a natural finish. I use my 12 inch buffer to bring out the shine.


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## ahoiberg (Jan 28, 2010)

amen to paste wax... although your clock won't smell like coconuts.


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## jttheclockman (Jan 29, 2010)

Zach

What are trying to do with the wax??  Are you looking to add color or just give it a natural feel. Does the wood have alot of voids or is it an open grained wood?? What type clock is it???  I agree Ren wax is not the wax for wood of that type. Did you apply a finish before the wax and if so what??  

I have done clocks and other woodworking projects where I just used Watco Danish oil and then applied Watco wax. Gives a nice warm sheen and holds up well. Clocks do not get handled like pens do.


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## PapaTim (Jan 29, 2010)

Texatdurango said:


> I know you didn't ask for opinions so excuse the post if not appropriate but *I can think of a dozen waxes to use that would be better than Renaissance wax.*
> 
> I've been making furniture for close to 30 years now and have used wax finishes on quite a few pieces. I've had great success with the likes of *MinWax paste finishing wax which is developed to provide protection to pieces that I just don't see Renaissance wax doing.* I started using Renaissance wax on my pens a while back but *don't see where it provides any protection other than keeping finger prints to a minimum.* I use an 8" buffing bonnet chucked into a hand drill motor when buffing Minwax and would assume it would work as well with Renaissance if there was a thick enough coat to keep you from buffing down to bare wood.
> 
> ...


 
According to RENAISSANCE Wax:


> Guard your precious pieces against the damaging effects of humidity, heat, dust, environmental destruction, aging and ordinary wear.
> RENAISSANCE WAX provides a barrier against fingerprints and the devastation of water, wine, alcohol and other spills. With its high moisture resistance, it forms a durable, lustrous protective coating. Prevents tarnish, corrosion and "bloom;" remains completely waterproof; retards weathering on exteriors and objects exposed to climatic abrasion.


I know some of this may be hype but I find it hard to believe that so many prestigious museums would use it to protect both wood and metal objects in their collections if paste wax were superior.


> Prior to 1950, the only polishes available were based on beeswax and carnuba wax. Unfortunately, these natural, saponifiable products could cause damage when acids arose spontaneously through oxidation or hydrolysis. To solve the problem, a consortium of international conservationists directed a scientist from the British Museum to conduct research and find the "perfect wax." When he could not find any that met their exacting standards, he created a new wax in his laboratory. The revolutionary formula he invented is a semi-synthetic microcrystalline fossil-origin wax entirely free of, damaging acids.
> It remains chemically neutral and is therefore completely safe, even on vulnerable surfaces.
> The British Museum approved manufacture for its own use and for distribution to the public. That "perfect wax" is now available internationally under the name RENAISSANCE WAX.


JMHO


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## glycerine (Jan 29, 2010)

PapaTim said:


> According to RENAISSANCE Wax:
> 
> I know some of this may be hype but I find it hard to believe that so many prestigious museums would use it to protect both wood and metal objects in their collections if paste wax were superior.
> 
> JMHO


 
Well, I think one difference is that we're talking museum pieces here.  Pieces that will probably not be handled everyday like a pen.  I think that's where George is coming from, he saying there are better finishes to put on things that will be used everyday like furniture or a writing instrument.
I personally can't say either way as I usually use a CA finish and have only used Renaissance wax once for a gift pen... so hopefully it's holding up!


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## Texatdurango (Jan 29, 2010)

PapaTim said:


> According to RENAISSANCE Wax:
> 
> I know some of this may be hype but I find it hard to believe that *so many prestigious museums* would use it to protect both wood and metal objects in their collections if paste wax were superior.
> 
> JMHO


 
*Hype*, well, that's another story in itself!  A year or two ago there was quite a bit of discussion as to whether the claims Renaissance was making were actually true or not.  If memory serves, there were documents floating around supposidly written by museum folks that disputed the Renaissance claims.   

That aside, I simply stated my opinion, as others did, nothing to make a big deal over.  If I had a pen that I wanted to rub a tiny amount of wax on to give it a little gloss or to help fight fingerprints I would use Renaissance wax, I have several cans around the shop and house but I just think it has it's place, just like a good paste wax, which I wouldn't apply to my pens.


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## Wheaties (Jan 29, 2010)

Thanks for the replies everyone! I think after reading all your posts I will use another type of finish. Maybe an oil finish or a paste wax. Very helpful as always! Thanks again!


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## KenV (Jan 29, 2010)

Prior to 1950, the only polishes available were based on beeswax and carnuba wax.

Yup -- inspite of long standing traditional use, beeswax is not good stuff to put on wood.  Beats nothing, but that is about all.  Beeswax attracts moisture.   (It is all the organic esters and other components of bees wax -  and I used to be a bee keeper and love beeswax for candles).  

microcrystalline fossil-origin wax = comes from crude oil   (love this one as supreme marketing choice of words).  

There are a lot of superior wax products available -- including a number of synthetics made to protect special surfaces on cars and boats that work on the finishes on top of the wood.


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## PenMan1 (Feb 19, 2010)

If you really like Ren wax buy it as Griffin's white paste shoe polish, chemically it is the same.


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## DCBluesman (Feb 19, 2010)

PapaTim said:


> According to RENAISSANCE Wax:
> 
> I know some of this may be hype but I find it hard to believe that so many prestigious museums would use it to protect both wood and metal objects in their collections if paste wax were superior.
> 
> JMHO


 
This is the full text of a mssage I received a few years back from the British Museum. Take it for what it's worth. 



> Dear Mr Metcalf,
> 
> My apologies for taking some time to reply to your enquiry regarding Picreator Enterprises' 'Renaissance Wax', I have been making some enquiries amongst my colleagues in Conservation here at the Museum. This product is indeed used in the Department on certain materials and types of object. It is not employed very frequently and is used very sparingly, but it has some applications under certain circumstances and has been applied to various types of historical metalwork (such as arms and armour), some types of wood and leather and some types of stone.
> 
> ...


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