# Pre-Drilled Holes?



## Pen_Turner_Dan (May 29, 2011)

I'm turning some new pieces I've glued together, and am wondering for Rollerball pens, since it will be cutting it close due to the size, do you pre-drill the blanks with a small bit and then drill with the bigger one so it doesn't slip and go in crooked?


And do you use CA finish on acrylic for a high-gloss?


Thanks fellow turners!
Dan


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## Rick_G (May 29, 2011)

for me no and no although I know others do pre drill the holes.

With a good brad point bit I never have had a problem drilling.


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## paintspill (May 29, 2011)

yes on the brad point drill. take it slow on a drill press especially when you are breaking through the bottom. chances are that is where it is going to blow out. and i don't use ca on my acrylics but if your going for high gloss your sanding is gonna have to be good. and get micro mesh if you haven't already


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## David M (May 29, 2011)

I predrill. i have found if your drilling and it gets hot it could melt the inside of the blank ( dull bit or trying to go to fast ) . when predrilling it doesnt get as hot , on the final cut ( correct size) . 
shouldnt go in crooked if using a drill vice or drilling on lathe 
havent used ca on acrylice but some do.
David


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## hewunch (May 29, 2011)

No on the brad point. Use a jober or twist bit. The forward flutes are terrible for splitting blanks glued together. Only use ca on acrylic if it will not shine up on it's own.


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## Jim Burr (May 30, 2011)

I'd think the brad point would be harder to center after a pilot hole was made. +1 on the twist bit. CA is a "try it and see" proposition...wet sand w/ MM to 12k and then plastic polish...see what you think you like!


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## Lenny (May 30, 2011)

For finishing Acrylic (or a CA finish after it has hardened) I have found these pads to work very well for me. They are available in a smaller size but this size allow you to cut them in half and set some away for when the first set wears out. They last a VERY long time. http://www.woodnwhimsies.com/product292.html?__utma=1.200540896.1295300757.1306678830.1306806636.24&__utmb=1&__utmc=1&__utmx=-&__utmz=1.1298822385.12.2.utmccn%3D(referral)%7Cutmcsr%3Dpenturners.org%7Cutmcct%3D%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%7Cutmcmd%3Dreferral&__utmv=-&__utmk=145752501

I never use ca over acylic (yet) but follow up with Novus 2 and Plastx or just go to the buffer.


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## Drstrangefart (May 30, 2011)

I do use CA on acrylics when I need to smooth a surface out. Sometimes I get a lot of tiny pits from operator error and once they start, I just can't make it stop. It helps. When it goes right, however, micromesh alone does fine.


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## jasontg99 (May 30, 2011)

paintspill said:


> yes on the brad point drill. take it slow on a drill press especially when you are breaking through the bottom. chances are that is where it is going to blow out. and i don't use ca on my acrylics but if your going for high gloss your sanding is gonna have to be good. and get micro mesh if you haven't already


 
That is why you never drill all the way through.  Stop short and use your bandsaw to cut of the last part.  You will never have a blow out drilling again.

Jason


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## tjseagrove (May 31, 2011)

Lenny said:
			
		

> For finishing Acrylic (or a CA finish after it has hardened) I have found these pads to work very well for me. They are available in a smaller size but this size allow you to cut them in half and set some away for when the first set wears out. They last a VERY long time. http://www.woodnwhimsies.com/product292.html?__utma=1.200540896.1295300757.1306678830.1306806636.24&__utmb=1&__utmc=1&__utmx=-&__utmz=1.1298822385.12.2.utmccn%3D(referral)%7Cutmcsr%3Dpenturners.org%7Cutmcct%3D%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%7Cutmcmd%3Dreferral&__utmv=-&__utmk=145752501
> 
> I never use ca over acylic (yet) but follow up with Novus 2 and Plastx or just go to the buffer.



We cut ours in 4 pieces and they are working just fine. Since they are double sided, we technically have 8 sets...


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## clapiana (May 31, 2011)

here is what i do....

- i dont drill pilot holes.
- i do use brad points but a twist bit is better.  i go slow and move it up and down to remove the fillings.....not all the way out but just enough to where you see the fillings coming out. 
- i pour a little water in the hole as i drill.
- i only use CA to fill voids.
- sanding is easy with micromesh 3/4 pads with lots of water.  cover your lathe bed with a cloth because it will rust.
- i polish (after i clean the blank well with a clean cloth) using SINGLE STEP PLASTIC POLISH.  you dont apply any pressure at all just go back and forth with a light touch until it shines.

blessings!
craig


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## Pen_Turner_Dan (May 31, 2011)

Yeah I did what you guys told me, and I did an expert hole! However, I noted when I was laminating the resin to the antler that there was a small void and you can see the tube, so I will be filling it with silver powder, now do I use resin to fill it and put the powder on or CA?

Dan


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## Bree (May 31, 2011)

I do not pre-drill.  Instead I use premium Colt 5 Star bits which clear the chips beautifully and cut through the acrylic like it was butter.  I drill slowly and prep the blanks by using strapping tape tightly wrapped around the base of the blanks.  I set up the drill press so that the bit just breaks the surface of the blank but does not  come clean through.  I always have a sacrificial block under the blank which is tightly joined to the block.  I use the bandsaw to cut away the excess and open the bottom hole completely.

This is all especially important doing acrylester blanks which will blow out all too frequently if drilled normally.  Oh it is also critical to have your drill press quill perpendicular to the table surface and your drilling jig base or you will wander off center.  I have a 6" throw on my spindle so this is very important as error is magnified the longer the throw.
:wink::wink::wink:


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## Lenny (May 31, 2011)

Bree, how long is your Colt bit? I have one 7mm Colt and it does work well although it is very long .... too long I feel. Just wondering if they have shorter ones (less prone to flexing)?


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## Bree (May 31, 2011)

Lenny said:


> Bree, how long is your Colt bit? I have one 7mm Colt and it does work well although it is very long .... too long I feel. Just wondering if they have shorter ones (less prone to flexing)?



The Colt's are pretty long for sure.  Don't have one in front of me but they drill spot on with my Steel City Drill Press.  Just make sure the table is 90 degrees to the bit and get the bit in the chuck properly.  Try the bit for the Cigar.  It's not cheap but it has never failed me and I make a lot of Cigars.

There are several different lines of Colts so you probably can find them a bit shorter in the brad point models.  I use the parabolics.


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## Lenny (Jun 1, 2011)

I drill on the lathe now. I agree with you ... the parabolic design works well. Just wish I could find them in a shorter version.


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