# How to make a faux Urushi/japanese lacquer finish



## grz5

After stumbling across several images and sites depicting urushi finishes I can't get it out of my head.  I know that the actual process is extremely expensive and time consuming so I was wondering if anyone knew of a method that can simulate the look and feel of the finish?

Here's a link that I found:
Edison Pen Company: Urushi Herald Project


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## chriselle

You can if you are in Japan where you can get the synthetic lacquers..Cashew and Washin. Without at least one of these you may be really stretching it. 
Maybe something like Testor model paints could work.  If you want to do something like the Herald project just substitute in the Testors. For the bump layer spread some paint out on a slab of glass. Let it dry and scrape it off. Mix the dried bits in with some paint and apply randomly on your blanks. You can substitute the gold powder with the gold dust powder packaged with clear brushing lacquer that you are supposed to add to get gold colored paint. Follow the steps in the Herald project and you might get close.


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## PTsideshow

By following his steps, and doing test blocks as he does. You will be able to refine your technique so it will be a good faux finish. But you may have to put a final protective coating on the top layer.
There are any number of fillers that you can color to add as the clumps, depends on what type paint you are comfortable using. That way you will have the same color for the paint layer, or as the previous post said dried clumps of paint. Acrylic paint mediums are some examples. they have basically the same kind of thing for oil and other paints. Gesso can be used or the modeling paste, and further down are the assorted gloss mediums which you can tint to mimic lacquers.

For the gold layer you can use some of the patten gold leafing foil,or any of the metallic gold paint sticks or paint. Or the gold metallic's powders for say coastal scents of any of the other suppliers.

Be sure to understand that when they talk about curing they are talking longer than just the surface is dry. It will take a number of days before the layers are cured all the way thru. Some paints can take weeks to cure! That is why they have time to it is safe to handle, dry, and re coat. 

Just follow steps in the description, substituting the faux materials.

That is what I have done for years doing the props, and diorama's, there is always shortcuts to do faux finishes. whether it is blue jeans walls or anything else.





This is a rubber door mat, for in front of the sink.












Kitchen and bird room, faux flowers as they are foam rubber stamped instead of painted. This is now a popular technique with had stamps and rollers. On walls,canvas carpets and scrapbooking.
:clown:


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## leehljp

Chris has some great insights on urushi. The while most professional in this field will give the idea that Urushi finishes are the result of the paint (lacquer) characteristics itself, it is more like (IMO) at least 50% technique and at the most 50% finish characteristics. Most foreigners just do now want to take the time to absorb the discipline of time and focus on the "process" to achieve the finish. "Attitude" is another part to this. (99% of) Japanese will immediately go into a mindset and attitude that inherently move into the "process" (technique) of accomplishing something rather than jumping into the "get to the end product as fast as I can" mentality. 

Americans and westerners to often use the process to achieve the end results with the focus the whole way being the end result. Another way of saying this is Westerners look for the destination, Japanese look for the journey. The two different "outlooks" are noticed by the professional.

THAT said, as Chris wrote, you can achieve similar results if you focus on "discovery" of the process with other finishes that will result in similar outcomes.


For people in the "fine finishing" circles who use lacquers in the US/Canada, they at sometimes use a product called "Japan Dryers". It is not of Japan or made in Japan. It is a Western made product that is added to American lacquers (by the end user) to give the lacquer similar properties to the Japanese Urushi finishes. 
. . . in other words, there are other ways to produce similar end results, but it generally has to be discovered.


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## grz5

Thank you for the initial input!  I have some additional questions.  Yesterday I purchased: Testors black one-step spray lacquer, and Testors black paint, and a gold leaf kit.  
I accidentally posted the wrong link but this is the project I am trying to mimic:
Edison Pen Company: Urushi Pearl Project

This is my initial idea so please let me know if you see any flaws that I may be missing:
-Base coats: Testors Spray lacquer
-Bump coat: testors black paint (mix crushed dried flecks of paint with wet for slurry)
-Gold: apply gold leaf or powder with adhesive.
-Cover with MANY additional coats of clear minwax spray lacquer
-cutback with sanding
-Apply CA finish or alternative protective coating

Let me know if you think I would be better off with just using acrylic paints for the base and bump coats instead of lacquer then acrylic


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## PTsideshow

It is what you are used to using, I haven't used Testors in years either the spray or bottles. Here is their site and the other brands they make plus you can see which ones have a clear.

Test the combinations of brands on a test block or dowel before you start on a pen.

Some of the assorted brands use different solvents and could inter act or react with you base coats.
I would stick to the gold powder, and the number of layers of the assorted lacquer layers and their colors. To achieve the effect you are looking for. 

I think brushing the layers of lacquer, rather than spraying would suit your purposes better suited. You will be hard pressed to find a lacquer the hue he is talking about in the blog. I key is the number of each layer with the proper coloring. 

I use the acrylics mostly now due to they worked well for the latex make-up bits before the newer generations of foams and rubbers. Along with the cheaper solvent(water) and the fact that you can achieve almost any texture or look because you can mix almost everything with it.




Aged Harbor Freight LED lamp (plastic), it was first gold and copper patten leafed then aged. the crud growing on the side is patching cement mixed with the paint.




It was made as a display piece for a book collector 1st editions Journey to the Center of the Earth.

Do the test pieces and experiment first.

The steps he does is what makes it a unique finish for the pens. Even in Inrō it is the work that goes into them. There are all kinds of lacquer finishes that covers the color palette.


I can Highly recommend this guys book: Bushell, Raymond "The Inrō Handbook", Weatherhill, 2002. ISBN 0-8348-0135-3

:clown:


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## chriselle

No need for spray.  Brush it on.  No need for adhesive.  Let your layer of paint to tack up and then apply the powder or leaf.  Then more color layers.  Sand back a little, more color, more powder....color, sand back...ad nauseum.  KEEP THE LAYERS THIN.  I rarely even paint on urushi. I wipe it on just enough that it's barely wet.

Hanks post speaks volumes.  Urushi is as much a state of mind as it is a process or a material.  Sounds hokey but it's true.  I imagine instead of taking many months you will still be looking at many weeks to completion.  It's finished when it's finished. 
  Instead of finishing with spray let the dried lacquer settle (further cure) for a few weeks (preferably months) and then put a CA finish on it.  Either way...don't rush it.

Caveat,,,, I think this will work but this is all a big guess actually.  

Keep us up to date on the project.


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## 691175002

As a completely different approach, I have been mentally going through the idea of using polyresin instead of lacquer for this process.


The appearance of the urushi finish comes from several thick semitransparent (or opaque) layers.  Using polyresin you can easilly get the shades you want and do the process in fewer, faster layers.

Mix up something black, layer it on unevenly (or mix in hardened bits), apply an even coat of polyresin with a lot of mica or gold powder or whatever and do a final translucent layer.  If you leave it turning in the lathe while it sets you could probably do the process in three or four steps.

If you already have the stuff for casting it could be worth a shot.


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## PTsideshow

691175002 said:


> As a completely different approach, I have been mentally going through the idea of using polyresin instead of lacquer for this process.
> 
> 
> The appearance of the urushi finish comes from several thick semitransparent (or opaque) layers.  Using polyresin you can easilly get the shades you want and do the process in fewer, faster layers.
> 
> Mix up something black, layer it on unevenly (or mix in hardened bits), apply an even coat of polyresin with a lot of mica or gold powder or whatever and do a final translucent layer.  If you leave it turning in the lathe while it sets you could probably do the process in three or four steps.
> 
> If you already have the stuff for casting it could be worth a shot.



Problem with that way is every coat would be thicker and the number of coats with the curing and sanding between them is part of what will give the look they achieve.
The layer of 23K gold powder isn't that thick and a thicker layer would only give a painted or cast look in the finished product. The translucent layer by definition is a thin layer that the under layer can be seen through.  A thicker layer would make it opaque/dense layer.

Using black instead of the dark yellow/browns and the darker browns, would also turn the layers opaque.



> semitransparent (or opaque) layers.


In finishing/painting they above aren't the same thing

The dictionary definition of opaque: 
not  or translucent; impenetrable to light; not allowing light to pass through.

semitransparent : partially transparent

Which would change the finished look of the pens or what ever you are putting it on.

:clown:


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## grz5

Would a protective CA finish work if lacquer was used for any of the previous layers?  I'm worried that CA on top of lacquer may result in a crappy finish...


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## PTsideshow

Again the best thing would be to try a test piece with the lacquer you are using and the CA it is again the solvents used in the coatings and adhesives. If alcohol is used in the lacquer and in the CA it could soften it. Test, test test your materials for compatibility. It save money, time and work in the long run. 

I have little experience with CA finishes, so I can't address.

If you are using lacquer, use brush on not spray on as Chris said light coats. And you might as well do lacquer from the start, changing coatings can and generally does lead one down the path of trouble.
Do don't forget curing isn't the same thing as dry to the touch some coating can take up to a week to cure solid from the surface to the surface of the material it is applied too.

the cabinet they speak of for curing is a steam bath type humidity cabinet. Since you aren't using the real urushi sap/resin you could get by with a low wattage light bulb in a enclosed space. since most of the modern coating are hindered in curing in high humidity. 

Here is a great site on the process Go figure it is in the Netherlands! And you will want to go to the process pages to see how much the guy doing it on the pens. Has modernized the traditional process in tools and layers/steps. The gallery is a delight for the eyes.
:clown:


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## grz5

Ok I have 2 methods I'm going to try 2 methods. One with paint and one with lacquer. In the example they use egg whites to thicker the lacquer. I'm assuming that this won't work with anything but urushi. Do you know of any alternative thickening agents I could use on the lacquer? 

Thanks again for all of the advice so far. With luck I'll be able to make a reasonable attempt at the desired effect


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## leehljp

grz5 said:


> Ok I have 2 methods I'm going to try 2 methods. One with paint and one with lacquer. In the example they use egg whites to thicker the lacquer. I'm assuming that this won't work with anything but urushi. Do you know of any alternative thickening agents I could use on the lacquer?
> 
> Thanks again for all of the advice so far. With luck I'll be able to make a reasonable attempt at the desired effect



Well, "Japan Driers" can do this to some extent.

Japan Drier | Guild of New Hampshire Woodworkers

There are lots of links on Japan Drier ands some are contradictory in opinion. But over the years, JD has been used to increase the drying time and in some cases act as a thickening agent. But be careful as a few drops too much can make it brittle.


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## 691175002

PTsideshow said:


> Problem with that way is every coat would be thicker and the number of coats with the curing and sanding between them is part of what will give the look they achieve.
> The layer of 23K gold powder isn't that thick and a thicker layer would only give a painted or cast look in the finished product. The translucent layer by definition is a thin layer that the under layer can be seen through.  A thicker layer would make it opaque/dense layer.



You should be able to adjust the thickness and color/transparency of the layers by playing the the dyes or wiping it off.

I imagined this process intending to apply the fewest number of layers possible (therefore making the finish fast).  How does the application of many coats (sanding between) affect the appearance of the finish?


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## Haynie

Forgive the stupid question but how come there are no suppliers in the US?


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## grz5

Can I tint the clear lacquer with coastal scents powder or Behlen  Solar-Lux alcohol based aniline dyes?  I'm planning on running to the  store tomorrow and I was wondering if I can tint my own lacquer.

 I know Michaels has the Testors colored lacquer bottles but their $3-4 for 1/2 oz.... :/


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## leehljp

Haynie said:


> Forgive the stupid question but how come there are no suppliers in the US?



Good question! I think there are several reasons, not one specific reason. 
1. It is expensive for the real urushi. But still there are some people that want it.
2. It is in low demand overall.
3. Culture. REAL Urushi cures far too slow for most Westerners (North Americans/Euro) It takes weeks for proper curing for the finest of Urushi. There are other Urushi brands that cure more quickly. But I would say that most Americans don't want to fool with the slower properties of even the more modestly priced urushi brands.
4. Not sure but I have a feeling that with the lack of a major market here plus import restrictions (EPA) - that makes it too much of a hassle for the small amount of returns.

That said, I did find one or two US companies that listed some urushi some while back. I did not call them.


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## PTsideshow

The urushi is a type or family of trees that the sap is collected and processed to for the varnish. The only way to find out if it will work is to try the egg white with the brand and type of varnish you will be using.

Forget the Japan dryer as it is made from metallic salts and mostly solvents. Depending on the metallic salts used it will change the color of the paint or varnish. As some can only be used with certain colors.

It really doesn't do anything to thicken as it speeds up the curing of the coating, it skims the paint giving an impression of thickening. There are assorted synthetics that can thicken but they aren't over the counter available.

There are many for water based paints.

Japan dryer is a generic term carried over for the horse and buggy days, when the first articles were seen in this country with what was then called Japanning or Japan lacquer work. Due to the state of the oils and such that the paint makers had to work with at the time. The paints and varnish were a lot more finicky as to temp and humidity and it would aid in the drying.

The best advice is look at the link I posted in the Netherlands It covers just about everything about the varnish and would give you some leads as to what kind you should look for.



			
				691175002 said:
			
		

> You should be able to adjust the thickness and color/transparency of the layers by playing the the dyes or wiping it off.
> 
> I imagined this process intending to apply the fewest number of layers  possible (therefore making the finish fast).  How does the application  of many coats (sanding between) affect the appearance of the finish?


Using poly resin implies that it is, that the hardener has been added. I haven't never had any luck with trying to wipe resin off anything once it hits. 

As to the reason behind the layers is the depth and reflections, the look that can only achieved in that way. Each thickness of each layer will catch and reflect, refract the light. Check the gallery in the link towards the end of the post.

The resin layers even applied wet one on top of each other would end up as a homogenous mass. And not giving the same effect.



			
				Haynie said:
			
		

> Forgive the stupid question but how come there are no suppliers in the US?



Could be the liability, The sap contains the allergenic compound urushiol, it is the same oil that is found in poison ivy. 





> The amount of sap collected from each tree is only around 250 milliliters per year, which makes it a rather precious substance. They may be using a substitute lacquer now. As even in Japan it is every hard to locate a conformed supplier.
> 
> Here is one guy that does it and he collects his own sap to process it into the lacquer.


Here is some more info


			
				grz5 said:
			
		

> I was wondering if I can tint my own lacquer


Yes if the dye is compatible with your lacquer. You can get a clear and what ever colors you what to tint it  try it in separate containers, remember it will look different wet then when dried.
I have never used the brands that you are asking about. But the metallic powder will work, I haven't used what I bought from coastal yet.
Micheals has a number of other brands of paints in acrylic and oil based. The only thing about liquid dye, if it has alcohol it can thin the clear as you add it for color. You are not going to get around testing, testing and testing.
:clown:


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## grz5

Oh I know that I have a lot of testing ahead if me I'm just trying to get a much information as possible tO make the. Process easier  looking forward to trying the egg  just hop it doesn't end up rotting lol. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted on the testing!


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## leehljp

PT, I agree with you on the Japan Drier. I threw that out there as "a" solution.


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## chriselle

Urushi is on the US import and customs list of dangerous materials.  I know that Ernest at Hakumin gets his directly from a supplier here in Japan...quite possibly one of the places I get mine from.  So, it is possible.  I don't ship it because I don't need the hassle should it get hung up in US customs.


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## PTsideshow

leehljp said:


> PT, I agree with you on the Japan Drier. I threw that out there as "a" solution.


Man that would have drove him crazy, if he never used it before. In the amount he will be applying. :bulgy-eyes: It always was a pain when you are dealing with pints,quarts and gallons!.
He shall have a very interesting learning experience a head of him.
:clown:


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## grz5

*Replicating urushi*

I've been playing around with several different methods and even though I still have to refine the process.....I think I'm on to something :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## chriselle

Not bad....but it's looking quite deliberate and hurried.  Urushi is neither.  

I guess it depends what you do with it after this point but I would say thin layers of paint...sand back till the highspots just barely show and repeat many times until all the low spots are level with the red.  Togidashi is a very delicate and time consuming process. 

That said.... It's great that you are going hard on this.  Awesome enthusiasm.


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## grz5

chriselle said:


> Not bad....but it's looking quite deliberate and hurried.  Urushi is neither.
> 
> I guess it depends what you do with it after this point but I would say thin layers of paint...sand back till the highspots just barely show and repeat many times until all the low spots are level with the red.  Togidashi is a very delicate and time consuming process.
> 
> That said.... It's great that you are going hard on this.  Awesome enthusiasm.



I agree. I have a LONG ways to go but the purpose was to narrow down the right material and methods that would get me in the ballpark lol.  In all honesty this is my 15th attempt to get the method somewhat close but I'm making progress. (The blank in the picture took several days to make)

The pen is actually smooth but I'm going to be working on finessing the bump layer and highlight layer so it can replicate the smooth and natural effect/figure of true shibo urushi.  But I'm happy with being able to apply the methods with different materials. (Hardest part is finding materials that work with one another :tongue

Thanks for the support!


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## chriselle

Ooops.....sorry, In that pic the red looks like it is flaking off and not smooth.  

15 attempts ....that's pretty good.  You'd probably be looking at 15 attempts with real urushi before getting it close and it wouldn't be two days...more like two months between attempts.  To do this without urushi or Cashew would have me scratching my head.  Very cool and looking forward to seeing #16,,,17...18...and...:biggrin:


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## leehljp

I personally don't think you will be able to replicate Urushi easily outside of lacquer itself. If it could be done, it probably would have been done. I may be a little too particular, but that is my background from Japan. They are very disciplined in this area. Western minds want to speed up the process! :wink:

"Japan dryers" are metalic additives (a thinner of sorts) that go into US/Euro lacquers that help it cure at a different rate and then give supposedly similar properties of Japanese lacquer. The Urushi effect takes place with layers and layers and each being "cured" before adding the other layers. Drying to touch and even light sanding takes 2 to 4 hours, but real "curing" takes days to months between layers.


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## grz5

*#16 making progress*

AND here's #16. I have to say this is the most fun I've had making blanks. I really enjoy the whole process and the fun of seeing the design evolve.   Comments and critiques are welcome.


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## PTsideshow

It appears you are on your way, and as the others have said there is a different standard on time and the steps involved. Looking good you are doing nice work.
As with the cinnabar work the real is time consuming each layer is painted and cured then another layer added to the wood or enameled brass base.








A real vase can have upwards of 300 + layers before carving starts.








poured, pressed and forced cured. Solid material drilled out and the a disk of brass glued on. As you can see the dull muddled  faux carving's compared to the one above. 
:clown:


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## chriselle

grz5 said:


> AND here's #16. I have to say this is the most fun I've had making blanks. I really enjoy the whole process and the fun of seeing the design evolve.   Comments and critiques are welcome.



Hey, #16 is looking pretty good.  Different than urushi but in a good way.  I would like to see one of these finished.


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## grz5

chriselle said:


> grz5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> AND here's #16. I have to say this is the most fun I've had making blanks. I really enjoy the whole process and the fun of seeing the design evolve.   Comments and critiques are welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, #16 is looking pretty good.  Different than urushi but in a good way.  I would like to see one of these finished.
Click to expand...


You can see it here.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/first-pen-posted-96818/


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