# Corian glue?



## Sabaharr (Mar 23, 2009)

I know there is a specific glue that is made for commercial application and instalation of corian but it is difficult to find around here. Has anyone glued any corian together with anything else that seems to work for pen turning applications? If so, what was used and are there any special techniques needed? set time, pressure, ventilation, prayers? Thanks,
Stephen


----------



## pssherman (Mar 23, 2009)

Medium CA works well for me.


----------



## wdcav1952 (Mar 24, 2009)

Try some of these links for ideas.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41677&highlight=gluing+corian

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36896&highlight=gluing+corian

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3185&highlight=gluing+corian

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34108&highlight=gluing+corian


----------



## workinforwood (Mar 24, 2009)

Gorrilla glue seems to work fine for me.  Regardles wether you use CA, gorlilla or epoxy, the glue surface needs to be roughed up a bit, cleaned of any dust and then clamped.  Be careful when drilling because heat buildup by the drill bit can cause the joints to let go.
  Corian adhesive, well I don't think there's any question that is the ultimate glue for corian.  It comes in different colors, it has no voids and it doesn't melt loose when drilling.  Corian adhesive is very cost prohibitive.  You need an aplicator gun.  Then you need the glue and then the tips.  The gun is expensive, it is not like a typical caulking gun..it pushes two tubes at the same time, rather than just one.  The actual adhesive is not expensive.  The tips are very expensive..averaging $3-5 each.  You need a new tip every time you use the tube!  The tip is special.  It allows both components of the adhesive to mix inside the tip before it is ejected, so you can squeeze directly onto the surface you are gluing.  The set time is so fast, that this is the only way the product can work.  You must immediately seam the two pieces together once the glue is applied or it will skim over.  If you where to not use a tip and just squeeze the two parts onto a piece of wood and mix by hand..by the time you get it mixed right, it is already skimming over and you haven't even applied it to the surface..but now it's too late!  Obviously...because the glue is mixed inside the tip, the tip is destroyed every time you use it.  It's the only way to make a kitchen countertop..but not good for pens glue ups.


----------



## foamcapt40 (Mar 24, 2009)

I have found that Medium CA works well as long as you flood the surface with the glue and then put as many clamps as you have surface for, clamp tight and I leave it sit for 24 hours. I have yet to have a seam show or have a blowout, although I try to keep heat to a minimum.


----------



## stolicky (Mar 24, 2009)

Like Jeff said - rough up the edges.

I have use epoxy, gorilla glue, and medium CA.

When Corian was installed in my kitchen they used silicone to adhere it to the cabinets.  I don't know what they used for the joints.


----------



## Sabaharr (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks everyone, and espically CAV. I read all the info on the links sent and now have a plan of action. This gives me enough knowledge to really screw up on my own. Live and learn. Local cabinet shop gave me a truckload of the scraps so I have plenty of material for experiments till I get it right. Now I have a place to start.
Stephen


----------



## scotirish (Mar 24, 2009)

Does well to clean with Denatured Alcohol before applying glue.


----------



## seawolf (Mar 24, 2009)

Keep a spray bottle of water at the drill press and spray the bit and blank as you drill. This keeps the heat down and makes a smoother hole.


----------



## ssajn (Mar 24, 2009)

I've turned many pens for Freedom Pens using Corian. How I've glued it is: sand the surface just enough to remove the shine, wipe the pieces with alcohol to remove and dust or oils, position and clamp the pieces using medium clamping pressure, run thin CA along the seam. Thin CA will seep between the pieces about 1/2" if not clamped too much. Turn over and apply Ca to the other side. Set on waxed paper and leave for 24 hours. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can align the pieces before applying the CA. It's important to leave it alone 24 hours to achieve full strength.
Dave


----------



## wdcav1952 (Mar 24, 2009)

Sabaharr said:


> Thanks everyone, and espically CAV. I read all the info on the links sent and now have a plan of action. This gives me enough knowledge to really screw up on my own. Live and learn. Local cabinet shop gave me a truckload of the scraps so I have plenty of material for experiments till I get it right. Now I have a place to start.
> Stephen



Stephen,

Glad to help.  Do me a favor, have some beignets at the Cafe du Monde and tell me if they are still as good as they used to be.  You might also get some strawberries at the Farmers' Market and roll them in the left over powdered sugar.  Damn, I miss New Orleans!!


----------



## Sabaharr (Mar 25, 2009)

CAV, we hit the Cafe Du Monde at least once a month. As everyone knows the best donuts are square. And the strawberries are out in full force in Ponchatoula now. Come on down and get ya some.


----------

