# tips/tricks for finishing the insides of transparent caps and barrels?



## Chris Burton (Feb 18, 2012)

Aside from using a hand reamer  (which is how I do it) is there a quicker/easier way to finish the interior of transparent materials?

thanks,
Chris


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## ed4copies (Feb 18, 2012)

Yes


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## ed4copies (Feb 18, 2012)

So much for my wise-a$$ answer.

Now, the BEST I have found is to mount a dowel (usually 3/8") in a chuck, on the headstock.  You can slit the dowel to accept sandpaper end, or you can use CA and then change dowels as you change grit.

At the end of the process, use cloth and plastic polish with the same application process.

Don't sand too much --- OR drill your blanks a little small, expecting to increase the hole size.  Also, keep the blank as straight as possible, so you don't widen the "mouth" at either end.

I've tried MANY ways, this is the easiest and most predictable.  Takes a little practice.


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## lightfeather (Feb 18, 2012)

I tried today to turn plexiglas! Well beside that the lathe was too big, i asked myself the same question. A technician suggested the using a sanding gel. Does anyone has expierience with it?


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## anectine (Feb 19, 2012)

Lathe too BIG!!  Isn't that like having too many tools?  :biggrin:


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## mkihne (Feb 19, 2012)

I like the idea of the sandpaper and am currently looking to slit dowel for that purpose. Do you use a fine bandsaw blade to slit dowels or do you have a better method for straight slits. A dremel perhaps? Have also used double stick tape to place on a section of dowel and use your good old formula for diameter of the dowel to cut strips to roll on the dowel. Works reasonably well and if anything cut your strips a fraction small to avoid overlap.
I have recently received my order of a few flex hones from Amazon and am looking to try those in 360 grit to see what kind of finish I get with them. Will report my results. If you are familiar with them in automotive sized, these are the minis. I plan to cut my blanks oversize to allow for some funneling at the ends as the hone exits the blank.
Another thought I had is the use of a solvent like used to weld plexiglas together. This actually melts the plastic to allow a bond. Has anyone tried this with acrylic or lucites? I thought one could swab a little in the drilled hole and see if the drill marks level somewhat.


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## PenMan1 (Feb 19, 2012)

Chris Burton said:


> Aside from using a hand reamer  (which is how I do it) is there a quicker/easier way to finish the interior of transparent materials?
> 
> thanks,
> Chris



I like to use the conical flannel buff wheels for a Dremel tool. Put on a touch of white diamond or Novus2 and have at it. 

I even made an extension "rod" for the tool from 1/8 aluminum rod.


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## PenMan1 (Feb 19, 2012)

anectine said:


> Lathe too BIG!!  Isn't that like having too many tools?  :biggrin:



Nope, it's more like being TOO RICH and TOO Handsome.


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## studioso (Feb 20, 2012)

from my experience, if you take your time drilling the hole, use some lube and clear chips often, you don't need to touch the inside.
in any other case, and if your drill bit doesn't run reasonably straight, you end up with a dirty looking inside.
I've never thought of bothering with sanding the inside, I just paint it, usually with a silver or a gold acrylic paint which will reflect the most light.


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