# Thoughts from a CA-tortured mind.



## Warren White (Aug 28, 2014)

I have posted in another thread on CA finishing, but my mind has been going round and round reading many posts on CA finishing problems.  Let me ask a couple of questions that relate to my experiences.

First, have any of you found a direct relationship between CA cracking and slimline pens?  My only experience thus far is with slimline pens, and I am seeing cracking after a week or so.  My friend has never had a problem with cracking, and he uses the same procedure (but a different brand of CA), but he turns much larger (i.e. fatter) pens.  Could it be that the slimmer pens experience more cracking because of the increased stress when they are assembled?

Second, do you wait some time between the application of the CA and subsequent sanding/polishing and the assembly of the pen components?

Third, since acetone is a CA solvent, is it a good idea to clean your blank with acetone after it has been sanded, and just prior to the CA application?  Should you wait some period of time between the acetone and the CA application?  Would another chemical be better for cleaning?  Oops, that is way more than one question..

Lastly, I have seen some disappointment posted regarding Woodcraft's Stick Fast Instant CA Adhesive, the brand I am currently using.  I have come to the conclusion that not all CA glues are created equal.  What has been your experience?  What do you recommend?

Thanks.  Now I can go to sleep and ponder the great advice you will give me on the morrow.

Warren


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## Jim Burr (Aug 28, 2014)

I'd be more inclined to wipe down with DNA Warren...personal preference? CA varies so much by make up and age it's at best a crap shoot so plan your application with variables and get ready to beat it up from a different standpoint.


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## Ironwood (Aug 28, 2014)

I have had trouble with the cheaper slimline kits causing the timber to crack when pressed together. my trouble was not the CA finish, but poor quality control on the tubes and fittings having too tight a fit. I had to ream out some of the tubes to use the rest of the kits up.

Everyone has a different method for finishing with CA. 
I find it is better to wait 24 hours or more before sanding and buffing, if I have the time I will wait a week or so.
I think where a lot of people have trouble with CA, stems from expecting it to be an instant finish. I found it was a recipe for disappointment, better to not rush it.


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## kovalcik (Aug 28, 2014)

I tend to wait a day between applying the CA and sanding. I find I get a better polish if I let it cure before sanding.   I use DNA to wipe my blanks, but only because that is what I have on hand.  Acetone should work fine.  I started with Stik-Fast CA, and while I have never had cracking, I had other issues with gloppy finishes.  I switched to Titebond which worked well, and then switched to EZ bond due to cost.


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## turncrazy43 (Aug 28, 2014)

_ have used Stick Fast CA for some time with no issues. Never had your issues with slime lines over any other component sets. It seems a good idea to wait for the CA glue to cure for several hours before sanding. The age of the CA may be a problem. Also, high humidity levels can also cause cracking. Just my 2 cents._
_______________________________________________________
_Everyday I'm vertical is a great day_


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## Ironwood (Aug 28, 2014)

I use acetone to wipe my blanks down before applying CA. I blow it down with compressed air to help dry it before the CA as well.
I dont use the alcohol, because the best I can buy in my area is 95% alcohol, I assume the other 5% is water. which doesnt go down well with CA.


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## Ted iin Michigan (Aug 28, 2014)

Good questions. 
1 - I've experienced CA cracking issues but see no correlation between barrel size and cracking. In my experience, cracking is most often (always?) related directly to "old" CA.
2 - Although I don't always do it, I prefer to wait overnight between application and polishing. However, I will do basic sanding (to 400) same day.
3 - I only use CA on wood blanks and only wipe "oily" woods. And when I do it, I will use acetone or DNA. Just depends on what is closest. Acetone is very volatile. Don't believe there would be too much residue. DNA contains some water which might hang around a while.
4 - Stick Fast is available from a variety of sources, not just Woodcraft. And, yes, I have read of issues with that brand (which I use). There is a batch number on each bottle. I believe a date of manufacture would be better. Some folk use the CA from CSUSA and prefer it over Stick Fast.
Hope this helps


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## Monty (Aug 28, 2014)

Everyone has their favorite brand if CA that they use, mine is EZ Bond. I would suggest you try several brands and see which works best for you and stay with that brand, whatever it may be.
As to wiping the blank with DNA or acetone, both, used directly from the can may have some water that has been absorbed by them (both are hygroscopic to some degree). I wipe my blanks with CA accelerator and so far, knock on wood, I've had no problems.


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## raar25 (Aug 29, 2014)

I use DNA and do not wait between cleaning, application and sanding.  I had one key chain large diameter which started flaking probably due to forgetting to clean the wood blank, but it took 3 months to happen and not until after it was sold.  It may have also had something to do with going from a dry basement to a humid customer location.  I have tried many different brands although my favorite is hot stuff, I am trying nexibond now because it is so thick.

Also I dont both with CA for slimline pens, for what I sell them for its not worth the hassle


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## BJohn (Aug 29, 2014)

I use CA exclusively on my pens, never had an issue wit cracking or peeling.

I use DNA to clean on both acrylic and wood blanks between each grit of paper and about 1/2 through the levels of m/m and just before applying the c/a.

Oh yeah I use Star Bond all thickness and black again with no issues.


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## cajun skeeter (Aug 29, 2014)

I have used several brands, currently using Parson's Adhesive, I don't wipe down with anything, maybe a quick swipe with my hand, I have used it on wood, acrylic, store brought and home brew, in 8 years of turning, I have never had  CA crack, some times I think we over think things.( Med thick, 2-3 coats, accelerator after each coat, sand to 800 maybe 1000 ,if have some handy, Novus 2 on the lathe, and I'll put my shine next to any one's)


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## eliasbboy (Aug 29, 2014)

This really hits home.  I am in the middle of a CA conspiracy.   I've had problem after problem for the last few weeks with cracking.  I JUSt redid the same pen, three times, with different, new, Stickfast CA every time, and cracks just appeared today.

Here's what it looks like 3 days after finishing:





I've used thin and thick, with and without accelerator.

I am going to change brands now and see if that helps.  BTW, I have made hundreds of pens without trouble.   I had an incident early on but that was fixed with getting newer product.  These last few weeks have me pulling my hair out.  It's not been on every pen.   The one pictured here was done side by side with another just like it and that one has no cracking.


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