# Cure Time ? Sanding Sealer



## CountryPens (Feb 25, 2006)

I am pretty new to penturning - 12-15 pens.  I have noticed with more course wood Padduk and Wenge that I get a lot of "light" spots in the grain where the sanding dust fills the grain.  I have been pretty much using BB's method  
*220grn, *then thin CA, *220, *320, *400, *Etc, Etc, thru all the Micro Mesh out to 12,000.  Other woods are coming out great, but with these woods I get major "light colored" grain filler.
Should I be using Mylands Sanding Sealer?  What is the Cure time for Mylands Sanding Sealer ?  the can does not say.

any help is appreciated


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## redfishsc (Feb 26, 2006)

I doubt sanding sealer will help with the slurry stuff in the grain. When I'm turning something open grained like that and get the light stuff, I whoop out a toothbrush and some mineral spirits or lacquer thinner (if the lacquer thinner doesn't melt the toothbrush). Wear safety goggles. A mild scrubberin and wipe with a cloth usually pulls it all out. 

Or blast it with a 100 psi of air with an air chuck.


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## reed43 (Feb 26, 2006)

Try sealing the wood with thick ca glue before sanding.


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## Doghouse (Feb 27, 2006)

Sanding Sealer will fill the grain, but the CA you are using will do that also.  I think what is happening is that you are sanding through the ca you used to fill the pours.  Sanding Sealer and CA would be doing the same job.  The trick is to only "sand" out the finish, not through the finish.  Once you sand to 220, you should not see any "light" lines in the wood. It should be all even color.  Then apply the ca or SS, and wait for it to dry hard.  Once that is done, sand to the final gloss only.


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## CountryPens (Feb 27, 2006)

Thank you for the input.  I think I am sanding "though" the CA.  So I guess I should do more work with the Gouge and not do as much sanding.

But my Question remains - if I want to try the Sanding Sealer, How long does it take to "Dry / Cure"  ??  before I can begin sanding.

Thanks for your help


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## Doghouse (Feb 27, 2006)

You just have to wait until its dry. It depends on your temp and humidity.  Sometimes, I use a rag and "buff" it into the wood, wiping off the excess.  Just have to be careful not to generate too much heat.


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## Randy_ (Feb 28, 2006)

> _Originally posted by CountryPens_
> <br />.....What is the Cure time for Mylands Sanding Sealer ?  the can does not say.....



I ran into the same problem several weeks ago and checked out the Mylands site.  Thought I saw something that said 30 minutes between coats; but could not find the information when I looked tonight??  I have sent them an email to get a definitive answer.


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## CountryPens (Feb 28, 2006)

Thanks Randy.  Appreciate the help.  It's just frustrating when you are new and simply don't know what to do about some of these problems.  

This board is great !


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## Randy_ (Feb 28, 2006)

It's frustrating for me too and while hardly an expert, I'm not a beginner either.  This kind of stuff gets to all of us......new and old alike!!!

BTW, guess it takes a while for those little electrons to travel across the pond.  Still have not heard a response from Mylands.


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## DCBluesman (Feb 28, 2006)

You're not likely to get a company to commit to a cure time for their product(s) since it can vary greatly.  For sanding sealers, they are generally safe for sanding within a couple of hours if you apply thin coats.  They should be allowed to sit overnight (at least) before you start applying your build coats.  If you are using the Myland's 3-step products, give your final finish a few days (a week is better) before any heavy buffing and assembly.


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## Randy_ (Mar 10, 2006)

Mylands was a bit slow in responding and their first answer wasn't quite as complete as I was looking for so had to send a follow=up question.  Nonetheless, here is what they have to say about their SS.  I hope this is of some help to folks.

"...The sanding sealer is applied, usually stationary.  As soon as it is touch dry to sand, which is usually anywhere between 10 mins, if you turn the lathe back on, the solvent evaporates quickly and the Cellulose dries very fast and you can sand almost within a few minutes.  If you leave it to air dry, typically you would sand, if you had a fairly heavy coat up to an hour after.  As long as the surface powders well with the abrasive paper afterwards then the surface is dry enough to sand.  Then recoat with Friction Polish..."
Dominic Myland 
Managing Director 
John Myland Limited


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## gerryr (Mar 10, 2006)

Someone needs to tell the guy at Mylands how to give a simple straight-forward answer.  That's worse than some construction contracts I've read.


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## Randy_ (Mar 10, 2006)

I just said thank you and went on.  Afterall, he could have just ignored my question and not answered at all.  Not everyone in the world is an English major even if they are English.  Are we here to grade folks writing skills or share information about pen crefting?

I got the information I was looking for so I am happy, sorry you are not.


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