# Minwax Tung Oil Finish



## W.Y.

I believe it was Al in Mayerthorpe that  mentioned Minwax tug oil finish a while back when I was having a problem with my very  outdated  for shelf life  pure tung oil  .
Well, I picked up a can of the  Minwax product  at the local hardware store a couple days ago  and I am very pleased with the results. The chip and dip bowl I made recently was originally   treated with Watco danish oil and well cured but I didn't care for the  appearance of it .
So I tried the Minwax and like was suggested each application would bring up more of a gloss. I didn't want too high a gloss on this one so I stopped after two applications and it sure brought that piece of wood to life as far as appearance goes. .
I understand that there is only a small portion of real tung oil in that mixture  . Whatever the other ingredients are is probably a trade secret but I am quite happy with the results. 
There have been lots of discussions about  finishes being or not being food safe and the majority seem to lean to the fact that all modern finishes are food safe when properly cured so I am hoping that applies in this case.


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## nava1uni

That looks very nice.


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## broitblat

Great looking bowls, etc. and those hand-turned remotes look very realistic 

  -Barry


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## W.Y.

broitblat said:


> Great looking bowls, etc. and those hand-turned remotes look very realistic
> 
> -Barry


 
It takes a very special lathe for those remotes .


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## papaturner

William, Would you be interested in adopting an old man that needs some turning instruction?:biggrin: You do awesome work.


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## W.Y.

papaturner said:


> William, Would you be interested in adopting an old man that needs some turning instruction?:biggrin: You do awesome work.


 

I am an old man myself and would love to have some turning instruction.
I am self taught apart from what I have learned on the internet.
I am way too  far away from any turning clubs and would   have to take two days  to attend  a  meeting so I have never had any formal instruction. .
 I find that experience is the best teacher. :wink:


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## Mrs Rojo22

Beautiful!

Robin


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## wdcav1952

William, that is a truly beautiful set!

Did you put the Minwax over the danish oil finish, or did you have to remove it in some way first?

Thanks,


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## W.Y.

wdcav1952 said:


> William, that is a truly beautiful set!
> 
> Did you put the Minwax over the danish oil finish, or did you have to remove it in some way first?
> 
> Thanks,


 
I put it over the danish oil finish. I figured that with both being an oil finish except for different additives in them that I would take a chance on that and it worked fine.
It was probably the same effect as if I had used the Minwax from the start apart from the fact that it would have taken a LOT more applications of Watco to start producing a gloss like that and the Watco would probably require power buffing.
With the Minwax I did not need to power buff at all . Just a little hand buffing with a lint free cloth.

That Minwax was very expensive here at $22.00 a liter but then everything is expensive here in BC now since they are having billions of dollars of cost over-runs for the 2010 olympics being held here. Wish they had never chosen BC for that . BC will never get out of debt in my time because of that. They are charging taxes for everything they can possibly think of both in the open and hidden . They have not taxed us for the air we breath (yet)
I will check the price of the same size in USA next time over the border and it will probably be close to half the price.


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## ZanderPommo

*price*

did a quick search and found it to range between 15 and 20 dollars per quart


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## Fred

William ... Excellent turnings.

What is the wood you used for the small bowl between the "remotes"?


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## W.Y.

Fred said:


> William ... Excellent turnings.
> 
> What is the wood you used for the small bowl between the "remotes"?


 
Spalted box elder burl


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## Fred

I thought so. I really like that wood for bowls and such.

Thanks!


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## MesquiteMan

Watco Danish Oil and Minwax Tung Oil Finish are both basically the same thing.  They are an oil/varnish mixture.  They DO NOT contain any tung oil.  They are basically a mix of varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits.  You can make your own very easily by mixing 1/3 polyurethane, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3 mineral spirits.

That said, the turnings look real nice!  I like MW Tung Oil Finish and also like Formby's Tung Oil Finish.  Formby's is actually just a wiping varnish (thinned down varnish) that give really good protection and buffs to a real nice gloss after it cures.

Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishing" from American Woodworker is a great resource for everything finishing.  Here is something Howard Atcheson put together based on information from Flexner's book.  You can find his original post of this information at Sawmill Creek:



> Here is something I put together for a woodworking club newsletter a few years ago. It is still relevent and may help getting through the "marketing" hype.
> 
> True tung oil comes from the nuts of a tree in China--and some other parts of the world. A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL. Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil.
> 
> "Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing expression for products that the manufacturer thinks will give you a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may or may not contain some true tung oil, but most do not contain any true tung oil. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that it claims to give you the appearence of finish that results from tung oil. You're buying a "faux tung oil finish".
> 
> There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.
> 
> Here are some oil/varnish mixtures:frown:*)
> Deft Danish Oil
> General Finishes' Sealacell
> Behlen Danish Oil
> Maloof Finish
> Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
> Minwax Tung Oil Finish
> Minwax Antique Oil Finish
> Velvit Oil
> Watco Danish Oil
> McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)
> 
> The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.
> 
> Here are some thinned varnishes:frown:*)
> Minway Wiping Varnish
> Watco Wiping Varnish
> Formby's Tung Oil Finish
> Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
> Val-Oil
> Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
> Gillespie Tung Oil
> Waterlox
> General Finishes' Arm R Seal
> Jasco Tung Oil
> 
> One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).
> 
> For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions, can it and sell it as "My Greatest Tung Oil Finish". Then announce a new product with slightly different proportion and call it "My Greatest Danish Oil Finish". We're not talking rocket science here.
> 
> Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. In fact, they are a more protective and durable finish than any pure oil finish. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.
> 
> (*) Thanks to Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes"


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## holmqer

William O Young said:


> That Minwax was very expensive here at $22.00 a liter but then everything is expensive here in BC now since they are having billions of dollars of cost over-runs for the 2010 olympics being held here. Wish they had never chosen BC for that . BC will never get out of debt in my time because of that. They are charging taxes for everything they can possibly think of both in the open and hidden . They have not taxed us for the air we breath (yet)
> I will check the price of the same size in USA next time over the border and it will probably be close to half the price.



I guess BC gets it's version of Montreal's Big-Owe which took 30 years to pay off


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## Sberger

I think minwax calls it urathane.  Gloss urathane!  It does a good job and you can also buy it in a spray can.  Not sure about food safe, especially for hot items, but for chips would probably be fine.  Beautiful work, wish I could tackle that.  Maybe someday!
Steve


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