# Turning/finishing between centers



## Builderguy (Dec 1, 2009)

I am planning to switch to turning and finishing between centers. I just have 2 questions:

1. What exactly do I need? I know I need a 60 degree revolving center for the tailstock, but do i need a morse taper dead center for the headstock? Where can I get one?

2. If I don't use bushings, can I actually turn it between centers? It seems like the blank would not be very tight and would slip, especially when turning the corners off the blank.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## Steve Busey (Dec 1, 2009)

Hi Eric,

Yes you also need a dead center for the headstock. You can try it without bushings, but it sounds like a major pain trying to get the thicknesses just right at the ends. Look up johnnycnc here on the forum and perhaps start with a set of his bushings for your most common pen. John also sells the live and dead centers. And be sure to come by the IAP meeting at Woodcraft on the 19th! (see my sig for links)


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## BigguyZ (Dec 1, 2009)

I turn and finish between centers- no bushings.  I don't have any issues.  Be careful not to over-tighten the tailstock, but if you're taking light cuts anyway, you shouldn't have issues with the blank spinning.  Get a good caliper to measure your diameters, and you're ready to go.  Now you can turn any kit type without being tied down to the cost of the bushings.  

As far as the caliper, I prefer the plastic ones, as it won't mar your finish.  But you have to get good with pinching close to the body of the caliper, otherwise the flex of the fingers will make youre measurement off.


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## GoodTurns (Dec 1, 2009)

I sand and finish between centers without bushings.  As Bigguy says, just don't overtighten, it will flare your tubes and possibly crack your barrel.  I find that the blank being able to spin at this point is a good indicator that I am pressing too hard when sanding.  If I am pressing hard enough to cause the barrel to stop, I lighten up my touch on the sandpaper...lighter scratches for the next grit as well...works for me.  I also caliper my barrels as you can even have variances within the kits....exact is exact and your bushings are not (I use JohnnyCNC's bushings for turning and they are the best you can get, but I still caliper the final product).


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## Builderguy (Dec 1, 2009)

Thanks very much! I would like to attend the meeting in Roswell. Here are some questions about that:

Do I need to be a member? If so, how do I join?

It said something about a pen swap. I would be happy to participate but I can't say I would bring anything real impressive to the swap because I'm still getting my feet wet in pen turning. Haven't tried any segmented pens yet. Just let me know. I would like to come if I can.


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## rherrell (Dec 2, 2009)

I make my own centers out of Delrin.





I use a revolving drill chuck in the tailstock.
It really works great, the Delrin grips better than metal and the glue comes right off.:wink:


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## Rifleman1776 (Dec 2, 2009)

I do everything except final assembly on the lathe without a mandrel.
Depending on the model of pen, and current state of laziness, I sometimes do it with and sometimes without bushings.
Works for me, I find very handy this way.


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## Mac (Dec 2, 2009)

? # 1 ---You need a 60 degree live center for tailstock ,period. If you have been turning on a madrel you should have a 60 degree live center as pen mandrels have a 60 degree concave. I make my 60 degree dead centers out of scrap wood cause I have not purchased one yet . You can turn the taper to fit your lathe and pull up tailstock to line up and push in then turn down to fit. Or you can mount a piece in a chuck or use a faceplate. I can make several pens before I have to make a new one ,as you have to trimm every time to insure a perfect allianment and to trimm any ca off of it.
? # 2 use calipers. measure pen part then transfer to blank. 

I usually start on mandrel ( I can turn this part very quickly)then when I get close to finished size ,I switch to between centers.


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## bitshird (Dec 2, 2009)

MT-2 dead centers are pretty cheap, but you still either need a 60 degree live center or a revolving drill chuck, and like Rick said a center made from Delrin/Acetal.


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## leehljp (Dec 3, 2009)

Hey fellows: IF you have bushings made for a mandrel, it does NOT matter what the degree of angle of the LC or DC you use! 

Below: Definitely not 60°. I made my first Dead Center well over 2 years ago.






If you use JohnnyCNC's bushings, they do require the 60° centers. 

But normal bushings made for mandrels do not. Even stating that, I do not recommend the normal bushings as they are not made anywhere near the tolerances that John's are.


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