# CA Alternative?



## tgraytn (Jan 10, 2010)

It appears to me as of now that CA-CA/BLO is the answer to getting a deep gloss and durable finish.  However, of all the products on the market today, has anyone found anything else that will give a gloss and durable finish on most stabilized woods?  Thanks!  Tom


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## Russell Eaton (Jan 10, 2010)

I read a tutorial on a plexiglass pen finish, but it looks kind of a long process. You have to melt it down then wait for a couple of days. The application process is about the same as CA.   Russell


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## tseger (Jan 10, 2010)

You may also want to try the enduro finish, I bought some from someone here at IAP a couple years back, and got some pretty good results from it.


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## Mike8850 (Jan 10, 2010)

After trying  CA/BLO and Plexiglass I found that for me the Plexiglass  gave me the best results and was easier and faster to apply.  I use a mixture a little thicker thin CA. Granted it takes about a week to disolve the Plexiglass but you'll have a years supply.
Mike


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## RussFairfield (Jan 11, 2010)

Next to Plexiglass acrylic plastic, CA glue and Enduro are the hardest finishes you can put on a pen. Everything else is lesser hardness.


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## leehljp (Jan 12, 2010)

As a different way of applying other than CA or acrylic, several people prepare a setup by using none sticking bushings and dipping the blanks in lacquer or enduro, and then hanging them to dry and cure. Some people had trouble with dipping in that hanging the blanks after dipping would cause excess finish to ball up on the bottom end. By adding nonestick bushings, the globbing up would be on the bottom of the bushing instead of the blank.

I have done a few "dippings" and it is different. These types of finishes take an average of 24 hours to "cure", and some people let them cure up to a week. While that may seem like a long time to wait - after using CA, by doing a dozen or more at a time, it does shorten the "per pen" time.

(I only gave the overview above.)


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## Rchan63 (Jan 13, 2010)

Sorry  to Hijack but what about Myland sanding sealer, high friction polish and a couple coats of carnauba wax?


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## tgraytn (Jan 13, 2010)

Thanks everyone for your suggestions so far!  Silly question I'm sure, but is there a place where I can get detailed instructions of preparing and using plexiglass?


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## tgraytn (Jan 13, 2010)

I just found the article on how to make the plexiglass solutions and apply it:

Pen Finishing with Plexiglass
 *By Les Elm*

I found this article on using Plexiglass for finishing pens on another site. Unfortunately
there was no author attached, so I don’t know who to acknowledge for this article. So I
thought why not give it a try?
Through experimentation along with some trial and error this is what I have found that
works for me. I am sure that others will find what works best for them when trying this
application of plexiglass as a pen finish.​
*A word of caution!! 
*Good ventilation is a must when making and applying the
Plexiglass solution. Acetone and Acetone vapours very flammable! Do not seal the gallon
can when making the solution! I just place the lid on top of the gallon can so the vapours
can escape. I make up my solution where there are no ignition sources. Be sure to dispose
of the applicator pads in a metal container in a well ventilated area!
First I make a thick solution of plexiglass by dissolving small pieces of plexiglass in
Acetone. I break up enough plexiglass to cover the bottom of a new clean gallon paint can
to a depth of 1-½ to 2 inches. I get new metal paint cans from a local paint store and used
plexiglass from a sign supplier. Do not use plastic as the Acetone will eat away the plastic
container. I pour in enough Acetone to completely cover the plexiglass. Over the next
couple of days I stir the solution and add enough acetone to keep the melting plexiglass
covered.
Once I have a batch of thick solution made I pour some of the solution into a new pint
metal container and thin the solution with Acetone to the consistency of Thin CA. I pour
this thinned plexiglass solution into a plastic squeeze bottle.
Once I have my blank turned down to required dimensions I sand from 400 through 1500
grit. I sand the blank length-wise between each grit to ensure there are no visible sanding
rings. At this point I wipe the blank down with a tack cloth to remove any sanding dust
and the wipe down with DNA with the lathe running.
Now I fold 1”x 5” strips of blue shop towel in four to make an application pad. With the
lathe slowed down to 1800 RPM I soak the application pad with the solution. I apply the
first coat moving quickly once along the length of the blank. I immediately place a puddle
of solution on the same applicator pad and apply from the opposite end of the blank. I
continue to apply 8 to 10 coats of solution alternating opposite ends. I found that doing
this way helps to ensure and even coating of solution the entire length of the pen blank.
The application of the plexiglass solution has to be done fairly quickly before it has a
chance to dry. Once I am happy with the final coat I will continue to let the lathe run for 1
to 2 minuets to allow the solution to cure.
Now I increase my lathe speed back to my normal turning speed and wet sand and polish
from 1500 through 12,000 MM wiping the blank down between grits. I further polish the
blank with Brasso and apply 2 protective coats of Brazilian Carnauba.
When finished the Pelxiglass finish looks and feels just like Acrylic and is just as hard
and durable.
With oily woods like Cocobolo or Thuya Burl I apply one coat of Thin CA to seal in the
oil, otherwise to plexiglass will never dry.
*Don’t forget that this process requires good ventilation and do your work well away*​*from any ignition sources !!*
​


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## mredburn (Jan 13, 2010)

Tom if you want to accelerate the dissolving time spin the plexi on the lathe cutting it to ribbons, literally, then gather the ribbons and dissolve them, they dissolve much faster than in chunks.  I discovered this after my dad was turning wheels for a project out of plexiglass.


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## tgraytn (Jan 13, 2010)

...


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## tgraytn (Jan 14, 2010)

Thanks!  That makes sense...


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## glwalker (Jan 14, 2010)

*Alternative to CA Finish*

I'm pretty sure I'm "the odd man out" here, but I've made quite a few pens and I almost exclusively use Krylon Spray Acrylic ($2.97 a can at WMart).  After MM I just spray across the blanks three or four times while they turn very slowly on the lathe.  Turn the lathe off, let that coat dry for 15 minutes and apply more coats until I get the build up I'm looking for.  Sometimes thick, sometimes thin.  Generally I MM a little between coats (lathe stopped, sanding with the grain) to remove any overpray/orange peel.  After My last MM to the smooth finish I'm after, I then put a coat of RenWax on it (still on the lathe) and its finished.

I've never had any problems or failures with this finish (I only use high gloss).  Obviously I put paper down over the bed of the lathe while spraying and you do get spray on the bushings, mandrel, etc. but for me that is not too dificult to deal with.

Good luck!!!


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## tgraytn (Jan 14, 2010)

Interesting....  I'll have to try that!  Thanks!


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## Len Shreck (Jan 25, 2010)

I have read this several times and have thought about giving it a try, so today I had to go to my local hardware store and I ask if they had any Plexiglas scraps laying around I ended up getting one that is about 8 1/2" square and another that is about 12" square both are about 1/8" thick for about 5.00 for both I have Acetone here and a quart new empty paint can so I am going cut the Plexiglas into pieces with my band saw and TRY to give it a try. 
 My question is for those that have tried it is there anything special I need to know about trying it? Will a quart size can paint can be big enough to start the process with? I plan to move it into smaller glass jars that I have before doing the plastic squeeze bottle. So I am looking for advise and guidance doing this since this is my first time attempting this process. Thanks for any and all help. Len

PS Being new, and not getting a lot of good finishes with the BLO/CA finish, I have been using High Gloss Midlands (sp) build up friction polish. So I am looking for an other finish that will work for me. Thanks again


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## jkeithrussell (Jan 25, 2010)

CA without BLO is a good alternative to CA/BLO.


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## bitshird (Jan 25, 2010)

Rchan63 said:


> Sorry  to Hijack but what about Myland sanding sealer, high friction polish and a couple coats of carnauba wax?



That's a good finish for something that wont be subjected to skin oils and handling, but won't last very long on a pen that gets used. Clear Lacquer or Clear Acrylic are far better, and if applied properly will last almost as long as CA, with far less effort. Pre catalyzed Lacquers are another way to finish pens.


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## RussFairfield (Jan 25, 2010)

I have had good success with dipping Enduro and the new High Performance from General Finishes. One dip from each end puts a nice finish on the pen barels, and if there were no bubbles in the can, and you were careful, there is no need to sand after it is dry. 

The new Deft Acrylic is also a good finish for dipping, but there isn't the color and grain accenting of the Enduro and HPerformance.


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 26, 2010)

Rchan63 said:


> Sorry  to Hijack but what about Myland sanding sealer, high friction polish and a couple coats of carnauba wax?



The wearability factor is zip with Myland's. Fine for decorative items, like bowls, that won't be handled. But not suitable for pens. DAMHIK.


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## Rifleman1776 (Jan 26, 2010)

Len Shreck said:


> I have read this several times and have thought about giving it a try, so today I had to go to my local hardware store and I ask if they had any Plexiglas scraps laying around I ended up getting one that is about 8 1/2" square and another that is about 12" square both are about 1/8" thick for about 5.00 for both I have Acetone here and a quart new empty paint can so I am going cut the Plexiglas into pieces with my band saw and TRY to give it a try.
> My question is for those that have tried it is there anything special I need to know about trying it? Will a quart size can paint can be big enough to start the process with? I plan to move it into smaller glass jars that I have before doing the plastic squeeze bottle. So I am looking for advise and guidance doing this since this is my first time attempting this process. Thanks for any and all help. Len
> 
> PS Being new, and not getting a lot of good finishes with the BLO/CA finish, I have been using High Gloss Midlands (sp) build up friction polish. So I am looking for an other finish that will work for me. Thanks again



First advice, be sure to have plenty of ventilation. Second, be patient, dissolving plexi in Acetone works but is slow.
Since the original question asked about finishing stabilized wood, I'll add, that is a confusing situation. Much stabilized wood doesn't require any finish since the stable material often produces a hard, and easily polished, surface. Depends on the wood and stable solution used.


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