# 12 Attempts 1 Sucess....



## ChrisD123 (Jun 20, 2012)

Hey Guys, still have problem with ca... i get the part down to size and sand up to 400. then i apply ca with paper towel 1 layer at a time and wait about 1-2 mins between layers and do about 15-20 layers. but when i go to wet sand it gets white and to sand it off i have to use 400 grit which sands away all the finish... what am i doing wrong im using the lee vally hot stuff glue? should there be a differnt glue that works betteR??


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## Kinger (Jun 20, 2012)

Im no expert yet with finishing either unless you consider gluing yourself up with it,  but are you using an accelerator between coats?  and how long after you finish applying the CA do you wait before starting to sand?  I dont know if this is right but I like to wait 30min or longer to let the glue dry up more,  it dries from the outside in so maybe you are sanding off the topcoat and underneath is not fully dried yet?

and wow just looked at that glue you using and pricy


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## Haynie (Jun 20, 2012)

I don't have a lot of experience with CA but the only time it turned white on me was when I was in too much of a hurry to wet sand and I got what you describe.  After some reading here it sounded like the stuff was not dry when I hit it with the water.  Now I make sure it is good and dry between each coat.  I use an accelerator after each coat. 

Since I switched to the stick fast stuff I have had ZERO issues after following their instructions.  I don't know anything  about the glue you are using.


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## watch_art (Jun 20, 2012)

30 minutes between coats?  that's something i'll never do then.  I'd rather turn then wait for glue to dry.


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## Bowl Slinger (Jun 20, 2012)

I have used all different types of CA including Hot Stuff. It is not a problem with the glue. Are you using an aerosol or pump accelerator? Maybe you are using too much, this will turn the coat white. I dont use a paper towels anymore just due to the fact that the white towels act as an accelerant and all PT's absorb the glue wasting money. I use the little plastic bags from the pen kits. They work well and hey, WTH else do you do with them? I only use thin CA and give a little misting shot of accelerator in between coats. I only use the aerosol cans and hold it back about 10 inches. I let the layer set up for 5-10 sec and then pinch the blanks between finger and thumb building up some heat and you will see the blank getting glossier as you do this. then I hit it with another layer of CA and repeat until its where I need it to be. Mind you I never turn my lathe off during this process. When I show my pens I have very experienced turners ask me how I get my finish so clear without any spots or clouding. Now you know my secret. 
As with anything in life, ask a room full of people how they do something and you get a room full of answers. Bottom line is take in other peoples information and make something work for you. If you have not done this yet, go on YouTube. There are a couple good videos that give you an idea of how other people do it and then you can adapt from there. Good luck!


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## Wood Butcher (Jun 20, 2012)

May I humbly suggest a can of accelerator to speed and complete the drying.  Use it a foot or two from the spinning blank and just a short blast.  Too much and it will turn white or even foam up if you overdo it.  I can apply a coat of thin, pick up the spray can, give it a blast and set the can back down and the CA is dry.  Have some ventilation cause the fumes cause sinus issues and teary eyes.  You'll have to wait a few seconds for the medium CA to dry with this method but it works.
WB


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## ChrisD123 (Jun 20, 2012)

well, i dont use accelerator because the stuff i bought turn it white immediatly even if i shoot from far away so i think the key is to allowed maybe 5 mins between coats?


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## watch_art (Jun 20, 2012)

so getting a can of accelerator is the key.  Hmmm....


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## Kinger (Jun 20, 2012)

watch_art said:


> 30 minutes between coats? that's something i'll never do then. I'd rather turn then wait for glue to dry.


 

no no no I meant 30min after all was done before starting to sand


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## CREID (Jun 20, 2012)

It sounds like you are wet sanding before the CA is done curing.
Curt


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## watch_art (Jun 20, 2012)

All that makes it sound easier.  Plastic bag plus accelerator.  
What's your lathe spinning at?
What kind of accelerator?  link?

Thanks!


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## DestinTurnings (Jun 20, 2012)

You absolutely are sanding while the CA is either soft or still wet. The best way I have found to do CA can be watched here:
How I apply my 20 coats of thin CA - pen turning - YouTube

This isn't my video but is done by another member here.

Then after applying 8-12+ coats, I will wet sand starting at 400. Then 600, 1000, 1500, 2500 and finally Meguires Scratch remover and a final coat of carnuba wax.

Just be careful because if you get a thick coat built up, it can stay soft on the ends and can seperate from the wood leaving silvery spots under the finish. It can also wrinkle if you rush to put your kit together and there is any excess past the end of the tube.


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## BSea (Jun 20, 2012)

watch_art said:


> All that makes it sound easier.  Plastic bag plus accelerator.
> What's your lathe spinning at?
> What kind of accelerator?  link?
> 
> Thanks!


Hey Shawn.  I use the refillable accelerator bottle.  I thought you've seen this when you were over here, but if not, here's the link to where I got mine.  It's seems a little pricey, but it works great.  But it does need a compressor, but any compressor that fills car tires will work.

16oz spray can for regular accelerator [B8000CB-EP] - $45.49 : Wooden Wonders, Your one stop glue shop


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## watch_art (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks Bob!


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## Dustygoose (Jun 20, 2012)

Shawn, I usually apply CA at about 1000 rpms.  I use a pump sprayer from Monty also.


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## 76winger (Jun 20, 2012)

I've had real good luck with the Slickfast CA and accelerator sold by Rockler, Woodturningz and several other places. And having watched Woodbutcher I apply it in similar fashion with no problems.

The only time I've had any whitish color or blistering is when I used a different brand accellerator, so I don't mix the brands any more


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## robutacion (Jun 20, 2012)

ChrisD123 said:


> Hey Guys, still have problem with ca... i get the part down to size and sand up to 400. then i apply ca with paper towel 1 layer at a time and wait about 1-2 mins between layers and do about 15-20 layers. but when i go to wet sand it gets white and to sand it off i have to use 400 grit which sands away all the finish... what am i doing wrong im using the lee vally hot stuff glue? should there be a differnt glue that works betteR??



Hi Chris,

You need to read this thread carefully, and take particular attention to my post #30.

You are falling in the same "trap"...!, times between coats...!!!, sanding/wet sanding after last coat applied...!!!, accelerator yes/no, too much of it, not enough...! yep, sure but, what are the temperatures like at the application location...??? absolutely no mention of it and that will determine more that what you may think...!

There are plenty of threads about the CA issues and you should invest a little time in learning/discovering the mistakes we all done and why.  Take it all in, digest it to your circumstances and squeeze the good juices, you my surprise yourself with what you will find...! 

Good Luck,
Cheers
George


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## ChrisD123 (Jun 20, 2012)

it been cold and rainy down in calgary lately sitting aroud 60 farenhiet i know not ideal temperature for setting ca



robutacion said:


> ChrisD123 said:
> 
> 
> > Hey Guys, still have problem with ca... i get the part down to size and sand up to 400. then i apply ca with paper towel 1 layer at a time and wait about 1-2 mins between layers and do about 15-20 layers. but when i go to wet sand it gets white and to sand it off i have to use 400 grit which sands away all the finish... what am i doing wrong im using the lee vally hot stuff glue? should there be a differnt glue that works betteR??
> ...


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## keithbyrd (Jun 21, 2012)

I think sanding and getting the CA finish hot or putting too much pressure and getting hot is the culprit for white or fuzzy spots.


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## warthog (Jun 21, 2012)

*finishing CA*

You need to let the CA cure. I used Medium CA and accelorator with every coat. You can just wait a couple of minutes between coats instead of trying to speed up the drying process. Also if you use accelerator you need to dry it off after the glue sets up. Mine will turn white also and you can fedel that the CA is not cured. It will not have that real hard feel to it. LET IT CURE. Then sand and polish. Works for me.:at-wits-end:


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## leehljp (Jun 21, 2012)

For 7 years I have been reading of the same problems on this forum. Wet sanding can cause this, especially in cooler and high humid climates. Folks in Dry climates assume that because it works for them it should work for everyone.

Wet sanding does not do well unless the CA IS cured. It can be hard in 30 seconds; many coats can be hard in a few minutes, but curing may not take place for hours to a couple of days, depending on the thickness, humidity, altitude and temp. 

I have finished pens, and two days later put them in a pouch and take off across the Pacific. Upon landing I have found them with white spots and clouds. Two problems - not cured and enclosed in a tight bag. The white cloudy is a result of moisture - from the wood, or from the humidity, or from wet sanding, doesn't matter which, but the fact that moisture is there. Period. 

Wet sanding comes in from the fact that some paint finishes are wet sanded. Well, CA is not paint finishes. Wet sanding can be done, but beware that you are introducing moisture into the fray of CA instead of paint finishes and that can bite back. The problem here is that people in dry climates or dehumidified rooms are able to do it and say that it works well. In those environments, it can work more consistently.


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