# Beall Buffing System



## GS1000 (Mar 17, 2008)

Hello 


I just bought the Beall system from Lee Valley today, and so far so good. My question is what speed do you use for your pens and larger flat surfaces ie. boxes, I will be using it on my VS lathe. The instructions do not mention a speed range. 

First post, Great Forum.

Ron in Calgary


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## Blind_Squirrel (Mar 17, 2008)

In the online video they tell you not to go over 1750 RPM (the speed of a slow-speed grinder).


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## rherrell (Mar 18, 2008)

Bare wood 1750 should be okay. I stay in the 1200 to 1300 range for CA and synthetics. I don't want to create excessive heat.


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## devowoodworking (Mar 18, 2008)

I really think the speed is a personal choice thing.  Experiment with slower to faster speeds, there is a learning curve and you'll find there's a sweet spot on the wheels.  Beware of catches(don't ask me how I know that)  It does take a little time of use before the buffs break-in without throwing threads constantly, have fun!


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## pipeyeti (Mar 18, 2008)

I stay in the 1200 to 1300 area it makes it hard to burn the plastic. Higher speeds if you put too much pressure or linger in one place too long can melt/burn the synthetic, especially with the tripoli. 1250 rpm for me and I get great results.


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## GS1000 (Mar 18, 2008)

Thanks for the replys 

(John I found out how you got your catches but I won't tell anybody)[] I assume the shedding of the threads will subside with time, (they sure stick to your smock and the wall behind the lathe). I was also playing around with a mistake pen and found out how quick the finish will come off a clip and band[:I] so will limit the buffing to the barrels only before assembly of the pen.
A final question, while buffing and touching the lathe at the same time I get a lot of static, is this common[?]

Ron Evans

Calgary, Alberta


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## rherrell (Mar 18, 2008)

You're supposed to keep both hands on the part![}] Actually, I've never had that problem.


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## GS1000 (Mar 18, 2008)

But Rick how am I supposed to drink my coffee, talk on the cell, and buff at the same time if I have both hands on the part [}][B)]


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## pipeyeti (Mar 18, 2008)

you need to ground yourself to avoid static shocks. I usually wear sandels in the shop and I just take one off and touch me bare foot to the floor, it works.


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## rherrell (Mar 18, 2008)

Sandals in the shop, where's an OSHA inspector when you need one.


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## devowoodworking (Mar 18, 2008)

Yes, those catches can be bad!  I had a bad one when I was buffing a box and believe it or not it circled the buff and glanced off the back wall, ceiling, opposite wall and finally to the floor![B)]  The box never broke apart, how amazing was that!!  The shedding of the threads definitely will subside in time, how much will depend on how much you use it.  I use it a lot so didn't take too long about a week.    Oh yeah, and those static shocks are what keeps me awake


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## ed4copies (Mar 18, 2008)

IF you mount it on an old lathe (like an old Jet mini) you can rest your wrist or forearm on the "headstock" end and get continuous tiny jolts instead of occasional BIG jolts.  I prefer the "continutingle" to the "oh****jolt".

Personal preference, I guess!


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## ed4copies (Mar 18, 2008)

That's NOT what I typed, NICE software there, JEFF!!!!!  I like your version better!!


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## rherrell (Mar 18, 2008)

****.... Wow, you're right Ed, AMAZING![8D][8D]


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## pipeyeti (Mar 18, 2008)

> _Originally posted by rherrell_
> 
> Sandals in the shop, where's an OSHA inspector when you need one.



My shop my rules. OSHA who's OSHA[8D]


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## gokartergo (Mar 18, 2008)

> _Originally posted by devowoodworking_
> 
> Oh yeah, and those static shocks are what keeps me awake



I don't care who you are.. That there is funny...


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## Fred (Mar 19, 2008)

If you have a wire brush available, simply hold it gently against the slowly spinning wheels and let it grab the loose threads. There will be several left after this process but they will quit in time. Clean the brush several times and re-apply to the wheel till you are seeing less threads coming off.

They definitely are a serious nose tickler ...

Use light touches with the bars of wax as a little goes a long ways with  good wheels. Heat builds up on the surface of the material being buffed and this heat can - and will - ruin your efforts.

I always place a thick beach towel folded in half a few times over the ways of my lathe and it helps a bit if there is a catch and the wheel throws your work against the metal. Learn to work in the 'sweet spot' of the wheel, hold on to your work with both hands, and don't be too aggressive with the pressure. The wheel is doing far more work than you ever could by hand so why hurry and take a chance on ruining your efforts and having to start all over! 

The static will always be there especially if the air is warm and dry.


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## GS1000 (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks Fred, I will try the brush and the towel idea as as I have an urn top to polish next and at this stage I do not want to make another one. I am also going to run a ground wire from the lathe to a water pipe that is close by, not that the shock was great but a few times it starlted me enough to reposition my work against the pad.


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## Blind_Squirrel (Mar 19, 2008)

Directions for the Beall buffing system: http://www.bealltool.com/pdfs/woodbuff.pdf 

Read #4 under setting up the buffing system.


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