# Resizing the blank hole for painted tubes



## HoratioHornblower

Hello all, just a small trick that might help someone. Just my way of doing things, so you may have something better that you do. If so please share, I want to know!
 
This is what I do to resize the holes on my blanks after the tubes have been painted. I feed some steel wool onto a drill bit that I don't care about which is rotating at 500-1750 rpm. I use #1 grade for the first step, and usually I have the drill press go at a slower speed for this grade. I then run the blank up and down the steel wool that is on the bit until I am close to the size that I want. Then, I take another bit that I don't care about and feed some 0000 grade steel wool onto it. I then take out the scratches from the #1 grade and make sure the blank is to the size I want. There you go! 
 
Some notes on what NOT to do!  Don't have so much steel wool on the bit that when you slide the blank onto it that you have to force the blank much. This could drastically change the size of the end that is pointed up. Also, if you have the bit at higher speeds this effect will be more pronounced. The wool should be fairly tight in the blank, but not too tight! Practice for this one more than anything. Another thing to consider is if you cut your tubes to the exact length and then use this method you have a much higher chance of ruining your blank than if you have some extra. For the finer grade steel wool I would use a higher speed, but again make sure that there is not too much wool on the bit! I hope this helps someone.
 
Sincerely,
 
David


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## t001xa22

David, I for one thank you for your tips and your time. I am looking forward to trying this method out. At present, I have to consult drill bit charts to find a very slight upsize to the tube drill to allow for painting tubes/blanks. Your method sounds safer to me.


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## 76winger

I've taken a slightly different approach on this that works pretty well for me. 

On most of the tubes I've painted, it seems like there's enough  additional room for the paint without having to increase the drill size.  On the rare occasion the  tube is a little more snug, I wrap a narrow  length of 320 grit sandpaper around a dowel rod that smaller than the  hole and lightly sand the hole around its perimeter. This smooths it out  and gives that slight increase in size to accommodate the paint  thickness. If the blank is fairly transparent, an added step would be to  follow the 320 with 400.  Just be sure to apply pressure to the middle  of the tube, so you don't end up with one end of the hole larger than  the other.


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## gbpens

A circular file also works to enlarge a hole.


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## HoratioHornblower

Your welcome Bill! Im just glad that I can contribute!

I almost tried the sandpaper method, but it sounded very troublesome with needing different sized dowels and having to glue the sandpaper. With steel wool, to change the size all I have to do is to feed the wool onto the bit as it rotates. If I need to make it smaller I take a piece of scrap wood and run it up and down the wool until it is the right size. Does it take you much time to set up the sand paper?

I don't know that I ever thought of a circular file. Sounds interesting!


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## Donovan's Corner

I use a long 7mm pen tube with double sided tape and sand paper of the grit of my choosing adhered and rolled to the proper dimension to fit just a little snug. It doesn't work on slims BTW.


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## BSea

You don't have to use a dowel.  If you just roll up a piece of sandpaper (not a full sheet, but about 1/4 of a sheet) it will expand to the diameter of the blank.  you can't use as much pressure, but it will work.


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## Haynie

What did you mean when you said 





> I then take out the scratches from the #1 grade and make sure the blank is to the size I want. There you go!


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## HoratioHornblower

Haynie said:


> What did you mean when you said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then take out the scratches from the #1 grade and make sure the blank is to the size I want. There you go!
Click to expand...

 
In case the #1 steel wool left scratches that would be visible when the pen is finished, I use #0000 to smooth them out. I usually do this when the tube close to the fit I want.


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## rkenly

I tried a different idea.  I purchased the package of permaneant sharpies that have 8 or 10 different colors.  Use the sharpie to color the tube that I want, and I'm good to go - don't have to worry about paint and the possible increase in size.

>>>Rod<<<


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## InvisibleMan

rkenly said:


> I tried a different idea.  I purchased the package of permaneant sharpies that have 8 or 10 different colors.  Use the sharpie to color the tube that I want, and I'm good to go - don't have to worry about paint and the possible increase in size.
> 
> >>>Rod<<<



I've done the same from time-to-time.


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## vthowe

So what's the pro's / con's of painting the tube vs the inside of the blank?

hopefully this isn't hijacking the thread too much?


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## fernhills

If i had one choice, i would paint the blank.  However, i do all three, the blank the tubes and tint the epoxy. Painting the blank should have you covered though, but ya never know.  For enlarging the hole i use a punch set with all the sizes at your fingertips. I just wrap some sandpaper around the appropriate size punch and sand.  Carl


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## philb

Kids paint brush with a bit of sandpaper rolled round, sand from either end.

20 seconds ready to go!!


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## Aerotech

My 2 cents.  I always reverse paint the blank.  It seems to give more depth to the blank rather then simply being able to see through it to a colored center, if that makes any sense.  Try it out on some lucite and you'll see what I mean.  to enlarge my holes i run steel pipe cleaner through the holes a few times till I get a loose fit on the brass.  i bought a set at harbor freight for a few bucks that has several different sizes.  I've never noticed any scratches in the center of the blanks.  I can only assume I fill any scratches with paint.  i usually put a minimum of 2 coats of testers model paint to ensure you cant see through the paint.  One time I was able to see streaks.  Hope this helps.


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## darthintel

I have had good luck reverse painting the blank by using a cotton swab to apply the paint ...have never had the hole be too tight after painting.


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## jeweler53

Here is a trick from my jewelery background. We use a tool called "slotted mandrel" or "split mandrel" to fit in a rotary handpiece (like a Foredom). It is too small to be practical for pen making but you and make a simple larger version if you have a collet chuck. 

Take a dowel of an appropriate size, say 1/4" and slit it down the middle from the end the length of your barrel. Slip a piece of emery paper in the slot so that when it is wound on the paper faces out and the rotation is right. Fit that into the collet check and you have a very precise barrel sander.


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## jasontg99

Use spraypaint to paint the blank and you won't have to worry about all this resizing craziness.  Better coverage too.  And you can paint the tube and everything will still fit.

Jason


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## Xander

I paint the 'hole'... and use the correct size bit so I don't need to sand, file, or whatever. Simply drill, paint, glue. No problems. Oh, and I totally ignore the 'recommended' drill size. Measure the tube and go with what works.


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## randyrls

I usually know if I need to reverse paint the blank, so I drill the hole a few thousandths larger than normal (.005" to .010" larger).  My 115 piece drill set and drill size chart are my most used "Tools".  I also find that often the size of drill bit that most exactly matches the tube ISN'T the one on the instructions.  

Your-mileage-may-vary.


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