# Micromesh wet or dry



## arjudy (Feb 18, 2008)

How do you all use MM wet or dry?


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## Dario (Feb 18, 2008)

Depends on what I am sanding.

Wood (even w/ finish) - dry
Acrylic - wet


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## igran7 (Feb 18, 2008)

I only use MM wet.  I sand wood pens dry with regular sandpaper to 600 grit then apply CA and sand with MM wet to 12000.  Acrylics wet to 12000 as well.


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## wdcav1952 (Feb 18, 2008)

Ok, let's keep it interesting.  I never use MM wet.


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## jwoodwright (Feb 19, 2008)

Wow!  I was told wet to flush away the "sanded" material...

Of course I only use on man made materials....


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## JohnU (Feb 19, 2008)

I havent used MM wet either.  I just run a fine soft cloth over it in between each grit.  (non wood material only) but Im still learning so I guess I'll try it wet next time.


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## rherrell (Feb 19, 2008)

I'm with Cav on this one.


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## Brewmeister35 (Feb 19, 2008)

I'm with Dario.

Wet for acrylics and dry for wood.


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## wdcav1952 (Feb 19, 2008)

Call me lazy if you want to, but using MM dry, I can clean it with a quick blast of air.  My son uses his wet on acrylics, and it is much harder to clean the MM.


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## IPD_Mrs (Feb 19, 2008)

Hey Lazy.
We use dry only on wood and on acrylics we will use it wet.  We have a different set for each.  The wet is harder to clean but it just seems to do a better job on acrylics wet.  Then again it might be all in my head!

Mike & Linda


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## Dario (Feb 19, 2008)

The benefit on using it wet for me is that there will be no dust.

Make sure you line the lathe bed with something to catch any drips (I use old newspaper).

I just put all the MM in a bowl with lots of water (I also drip some dishwashing liquid on mine).  This way, I can "rinse" it after using, no real clean-up is needed later.


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## aurrida (Feb 19, 2008)

micro mesh dry for wood. plastic micro mesh wet for plastics.

using mm for wood wet? is it a good idea on wood? raising the grain, adding moisture to the wood, then putting on a finish? i wait for days to get the moisture in snakewood to equalize with a centrally heated room, why would i then add water to it? obviously its working for some.


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## Ron in Drums PA (Feb 19, 2008)

Unless I'm sanding bare wood (yes I have sanded to 12000MM on bare wood) I always use clean water and wipe down the project with a clean towel between each grit.

I believe the lubrication gives a smoother finish with each grit.


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## fiferb (Feb 19, 2008)

Dry on all material for me.


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## alamocdc (Feb 19, 2008)

I'm w/Dario. Wood=dry, synths=wet.


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## Hello (Feb 19, 2008)

my $0.02.....
Dry for bare wood
Wet for everything else


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## TowMater (Feb 19, 2008)

I haven't done any synthetics yet so all I can speak of us woods.

Haven't tried wet sanding at all, but I am struggling right now with a piece of Amboyna Burl that doesn't seem to want to achieve an 100% shiny coverage. I can get it about 90% but there always seems to be a spot I'm not happy with so I start over.

Maybe tonight I'll try wet sanding it and see how I like that.

Good thread, thanks for posting it.

TM


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## Dario (Feb 19, 2008)

> _Originally posted by TowMater_
> 
> I haven't done any synthetics yet so all I can speak of us woods.
> 
> ...



I wouldn't do wet sanding in this case if I were you.

The most likely cause of the dull spot is because all the CA was sanded off on those places/spots.  Wet sanding will most likely introduce water to your blank that can cause more problems later.


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## marionquill (Feb 19, 2008)

I only use MM wet - no matter the material. If it gets hot, it tears and it only takes a little bit on acrylic to get too hot so...

Jason


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## hunter-27 (Feb 19, 2008)

I vote to leave the H2O out of the equation always.  A quick wipe with dry cloth between grits and move on.  If your building up enough heat to get it "hot", I guess I would not put so dang much pressure on it and let the grits do the work, not trying to melt it smooth.  Just my opinion, take it, leave it, or tell me to go to *&^%.  Your call.


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## stevers (Feb 19, 2008)

Thought it was time to chime in. 
Dry on bare wood, wet on all else. Wet on thick CA and synthetics gives me a far Superior finish. 
Of course, as soon as I can pick up some buffing wheels, none of this will matter.[}]


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## rherrell (Feb 20, 2008)

> _Originally posted by stevers_
> 
> Thought it was time to chime in.
> Dry on bare wood, wet on all else. Wet on thick CA and synthetics gives me a far Superior finish.
> Of course, as soon as I can pick up some buffing wheels, none of this will matter.[}]



Yeah buddy! Soooo much faster and your(my) hand won't cramp up!


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## Chasper (Feb 20, 2008)

Dry all the time for me; all materials.

I tried wet for a few months and didn't see any improvment.


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## TowMater (Feb 20, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Dario_
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Just to clarify, I never said they were dull spots, just spots on them that didn't match the perfect finish of the rest of the blank.

As it was, I didn't get down to the shop last night anyway, had to go pick up the daughters violin and then the kids wanted to make cookies and I got to "help" them clean up the kitchen[].

I'll keep that in mind about dull spots introducing water into the blank though.

TM


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## Rick_G (Feb 20, 2008)

I wet sand only to keep the dust down but I don't use water I use BLO.  Seems to work for me.


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## stevers (Feb 20, 2008)

Soon Rick, soon!


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## arjudy (Feb 23, 2008)

Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate it.


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## MichaelS (Feb 24, 2008)

Dry, take off dust with DNA between grits, as you are sanding with dust until you do. But that's just me1


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## hughbie (Feb 24, 2008)

i'm totally wet!  uuhhhh....let me rephrase that, i wet sand with wood and plastics.  of course i don't wet sand bare wood, i wait till i get a couple of coats of CA then wet sand.


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## Rudy Vey (Feb 24, 2008)

For years I used it wet on plastics, dry on wood. Some six month ago I totally switched to dry - less messy!! Just be careful not to get it too hot on plastics, and clean it often.


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