# To BLO or not to BLO



## tack (May 15, 2008)

That is the question.  I have read several posts on how to properly do a BLO/CA method.  I've done it on a few pens and find it's fairly easy however I tend to apply the BLO first and then go to the CA.  I have two questions about the BLO.

1. What are the schools of thought about which order to apply them?
2. I have read some people don't use BLO at all.  What difference does the BLO make?

I have only done the CA first once, and I wound up messing it up.  Now I did use a paper towel and I realize that it acts as an accellerant so I'm thinking if I use some dressmakers batting like in Russ's video that would help but I was just wondering what you CA Yoda's out there think.


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## Texatdurango (May 15, 2008)

> _Originally posted by tack_
> 
> That is the question.  I have read several posts on how to properly do a BLO/CA method.  I've done it on a few pens and find it's fairly easy however I tend to apply the BLO first and then go to the CA.  I have two questions about the BLO.
> 
> ...


Well, to those who don't use BLO, the answer would be NOTHING!  If you think for a moment, what are you doing... you're putting glue on a pen, sanding it smooth then polishing it... that's all!  I think there are way too many "Proper" ways of putting glue on a pen then making it shine!

Just try it and don't expect a perfect gloss finish the first time then think you didn't follow a process correctly, just try again and after a few pens you'll be doing just fine!


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## RussFairfield (May 16, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Texatdurango_
> 
> Well, to those who don't use BLO, the answer would be NOTHING!  If you think for a moment, what are you doing... you're putting glue on a pen, sanding it smooth then polishing it... that's all!  I think there are way too many "Proper" ways of putting glue on a pen then making it shine!
> 
> Just try it and don't expect a perfect gloss finish the first time then think you didn't follow a process correctly, just try again and after a few pens you'll be doing just fine!



AMEN!!!!

The only difference between a bad CA finish and a good CA finish is that you will have to sand the bad one more and maybe start with a coarser grit yo get to the same place. You won't be able to tell the difference by the time you get to 600 grit, or 12,000 micro-mesh, or whatever else you do to arrive at the final polish.


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## leehljp (May 16, 2008)

On the BLO - try a few pens with it and a few pens without it - over a few weeks. It is not a matter of which is better, it is a matter of which works best for you and what you become comfortable with. NO one can tell you that but your own experience. 

Personally, I use it sometimes and sometimes I don't. I don't use it on holly because it yellows the white holly. I don't usually use it with oily woods either. I do put it on some grains to make them pop out. Sometimes for some reason, I just feel like using a few drops on the paper towel before I apply the CA.


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## Larry Gottlieb (May 16, 2008)

I have used CA alone for a long time, but more recently have been trying BLO then CA. My impression is that I get a smoother finish with the latter. I use thin CA and apply 2 coats of BLO/CA, then burnish with brown paper.

Larry


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## cdcarter (May 26, 2008)

I rarely use BLO any more. I just turn the lathe down slow and apply 3-4 coats of thin CA, allowing a couple of minutes to dry in between coats. If I see any ridges after 2 coats, I sand them back before adding the others. Then after the other couple of coats, I MM starting about 320 and skipping to every third level or so, putting in the most time with the last couple to prevent sanding through.


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## MesquiteMan (May 26, 2008)

I do not use BLO.  I simply build on a nice thick coat, not worrying too much about getting it smooth.  I then sand it until it is smooth and polish with MM.  Works for me.


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## mick (May 26, 2008)

I'm like Hank, sometimes I use BLO.....Sometimes I don't , depends on the wood. Like Hank I've found that BLO will really make the grain pop on certain woods. IMHO I think it's the amount of BLO and the time you wait before CA that can cause you problems. I've gotten "blooming"or whitish areas under my CA finish after using BLO. This seems to happen primarily on oilier woods or if I use too much BLO and don't allow it enough drying time. I have on occassion applied a small amount of BLO and then burnished it into the wood. I think the heat built up helps dry the BLO, again just MHO.  Of course you wouldn't want to do this on any heat sensitive wood.

Bottom line I think is to find a finish that works for you perfect it and go from there, refining as needed.


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## slincoln (May 26, 2008)

As others have said, do what works for you.  I do not use BLO.  I use waxed paper to apply a coat of thin CA, give it a few moments to dry and sand lightly followed by MM and buffing.


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## Ligget (May 27, 2008)

I use BLO to `pop` the grain only, then approx 5 coats of medium CA![8D]


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## igran7 (May 27, 2008)

Like Mark, I use BLO to pop the grain as well, wipe off the excess and apply two coats of thin followed by two coats of medium.


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## stolicky (May 29, 2008)

For me, its all about popp'in the grain (for woods with grain to see).  I usually put it onto the wood first, cook it in, and then use a little BLO with CA until I am happy with the finish.  Sometimes 2 coats, sometimes many more....


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## randyrls (May 29, 2008)

> _Originally posted by tack_
> 
> 
> I have only done the CA first once, and I wound up messing it up.  Now I did use a paper towel and I realize that it acts as an accellerant so I'm thinking if I use some dressmakers batting like in Russ's video that would help but I was just wondering what you CA Yoda's out there think.



The most important thing is to get a good technique going and then stick with it.  Turn a pen blank until it is just round, not final size, and do the CA finish.  If it looks good, great, if not, turn off the finish and try again.

I apply CA with a tiny plastic baggie that the pen kits so graciously supply free.     I then apply BLO using a paper towel.

As I said;  the important thing is to get a good finish!  Technique, order, and materials are secondary!



I bought some used paint......   It was in the shape of a house....
 --    Steven Wright.


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## Paul Downes (Jun 5, 2008)

I was using the BLO/CA finish but found that the oil will cause inconsistant adheasion to the wood. (Just like Russ Fairfield said) I still use Blo to 'pop' the grain but I now put a coat of sanding sealer over the top of it before several coats of CA. I use paper towel and apply at slow lathe speeds untill the glue hazes over. If I get a "run" or otherwise rough finish I found out that the screen sand paper works best to cut off the roughness. I then recoat to  make sure the finish is built up enough. I then re-sand 1500, 2400, 3200, 4000 MM and then buff out with Novus plastic polish. Some woods need to be MM'ed to 12000 to get the shine.


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## Munsterlander (Jun 6, 2008)

I haven't yet gotten up the nerve to try the CA/BLO finish (will soon), so far I've been using EEE, then Myland's sanding sealer (I know, why EEE _and_ Myland's sanding sealer - it just seems to work better for me...), then Myland's friction polish, then wax.  I am making a pen using desert ironwood for a friend that is just here this weekend (and I don't want to try out CA/BLO for the first time on that), but wondered if it would be OK to use some BLO to get the pop but under the friction polish instead of CA.  Paul's May 19th post got me thinking about it - so I'm thinking BLO then my normal process.  Is this OK?  Crazy?  Thanks.


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