# Buy the carbide tool



## mharvey (Feb 18, 2013)

If you are waiting to buy the carbide tool...spend the $60....it changed my entire skill level...just be carful...as it really cuts...


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## dankc908 (Feb 18, 2013)

I second this!  I have 3 different carbide tools (square, round, and diamond shaped) and I love each of them for different uses.


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## frank123 (Feb 18, 2013)

If you don't have the bucks to spare, they're pretty easy to make.  Well worth the time spent and doesn't really take all that long to make one.


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## longbeard (Feb 18, 2013)

frank123 said:


> If you don't have the bucks to spare, they're pretty easy to make. Well worth the time spent and doesn't really take all that long to make one.


 
I made both of mine, square and round for about $30 bucks with the cutters. Could'nt afford $120, could'nt justify it really. That $30 does the same thing as $120  an ash handle might not be as fancy as a bubinga. But those tools are nice to turn with.


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## Jgrden (Feb 18, 2013)

frank123 said:


> If you don't have the bucks to spare, they're pretty easy to make.  Well worth the time spent and doesn't really take all that long to make one.



How do you do this?  Buy the tip and make the holder??


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## CharlesJohnson (Feb 18, 2013)

Captian Eddie Castelin  on utube and at Big Guy Productions.  Big selaction of carbide cutters for 1/2 or less.I have handled all but two for about 10% or less each.  Would not have had one for the high cost of buying them. Buy the supplies local.  I will do the latest two also. When they "do" need it,just turn them down on a diamond card for several strokes and you are ready to go again.  The thing is, I don't know if I may enjoy making my own tooks as much as turing pens.  That is saying a lot.  And like here, he is great to deal with.  Lots of videos.  Even live on ustream on Wednesday 7pmPM cn,and Saturday 2PM cn. Have fun!


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## Neededwill (Feb 18, 2013)

I like mine but still trying to figure how to exactly use it since it has a 45 degree angle for the cutter. It says to stay level to the floor but I find I have to angle down below center and move upward to start the cut the go left or right. I am a beginner but I do so much better with my gouge and skew. I will keep using it till I find the right technique though.


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## longbeard (Feb 18, 2013)

Jgrden said:


> frank123 said:
> 
> 
> > If you don't have the bucks to spare, they're pretty easy to make. Well worth the time spent and doesn't really take all that long to make one.
> ...


 
I used 1/2'' key stock for my big one with a radius square cutter and a 3/8'' key stock for my round cutter.


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## longbeard (Feb 18, 2013)

Neededwill said:


> I like mine but still trying to figure how to exactly use it since it has a 45 degree angle for the cutter. It says to stay level to the floor but I find I have to angle down below center and move upward to start the cut the go left or right. I am a beginner but I do so much better with my gouge and skew. I will keep using it till I find the right technique though.


 
When i go from square to round, i use just the right corner of my radius cutter, about 1/16''. I only use the radius cutters, me and square cutters dont get along.


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## Hendu3270 (Feb 19, 2013)

frank123 said:


> If you don't have the bucks to spare, they're pretty easy to make. Well worth the time spent and doesn't really take all that long to make one.


 
Exactly! There's nothing to it. Made both of mine. If you've been turning for a little while, you've probably already obtained the tools to make one.


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## healeydays (Feb 19, 2013)

I bought my set from RusDemka.  

He makes full and mini sets and the price is right.


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## plano_harry (Feb 19, 2013)

Neededwill said:


> I like mine but still trying to figure how to exactly use it since it has a 45 degree angle for the cutter. It says to stay level to the floor but I find I have to angle down below center and move upward to start the cut the go left or right. I am a beginner but I do so much better with my gouge and skew. I will keep using it till I find the right technique though.



Randall, not really sure of what you are describing, so pardon me if what I say does not apply.  First, I presume you have the bevel on the underside and the top is flat.  I use a cutter that is almost square - 4" radius curve on each side.  While rounding and turning to size, I hold handle level and generally square to the lathe axis with the cutter on about a 45 degree slope so the edge to the wood is much like you might hold your skew.  I don't hand blank corners or crossgrain like I would when I had the cutter edge flat.  When i am within .05 or so of my finished diameter, I lay the cutter down flat and lightly scrape the blank to get a smooth finish -- rarely requiring more than a 400 grit sanding prior to finish.  These are great tools and I hope that helps you get more out of it.

Harry with no beard


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## swampgobbler (Feb 19, 2013)

the high dollar ones claim to use carbide cutters made from wood and suggest the "cheaper" models are using cutters made for metal.  is this true?  i've only used one cheap model I got from ebay and I didn't like it.  was thinking of trying a different brand


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## longbeard (Feb 19, 2013)

I got my first set from ebay, then i got some from, well i just looked in my favs, and i dont see it now. Where i got them from, they had different kinds of cutters, the ones i did get are the 4'' radius style, 20 to a pack.
The one got from ebay, was it square or a radius cutter? I prefer the radius, either the 2'' or 4'' radius on all 4 sides style cutters.


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## longbeard (Feb 19, 2013)

swampgobbler said:


> the high dollar ones claim to use carbide cutters made from wood and suggest the "cheaper" models are using cutters made for metal. is this true? i've only used one cheap model I got from ebay and I didn't like it. was thinking of trying a different brand


 
Found it, Global tooling, scroll down to the 11th one down, maked 
*Knives marked with 'BT' *still on my first one and i've turned alot of pens, candle holder, pepper mill from cherry, and a few bottle stoppers.
Hope this helps.

Carbide Insert Knives - Global Tooling


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## mikespenturningz (Feb 19, 2013)

I was having trouble with my carbide cutter when I first got it and one of the guys here told me to use my round cutter until I got used to it. That helped me a lot! I would definitely get round cutters also!


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## Hendu3270 (Feb 19, 2013)

swampgobbler said:


> the high dollar ones claim to use carbide cutters made from wood and suggest the *"cheaper" models are using cutters made for metal.* is this true? i've only used one cheap model I got from ebay and I didn't like it. was thinking of trying a different brand


 
Can't speak to what the ones on Ebay are, but I bought my cutters from woodcraft. They are the Easy Wood Tools replacements I believe.

I can tell you if a carbide cutter is made for metal, it's sure as heck gonna cut wood like butter. Not neccesarily the other way around. You gotta be careful when relying on Ebay descriptions though.


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## Hendu3270 (Feb 19, 2013)

mikespenturningz said:


> I was having trouble with my carbide cutter when I first got it and one of the guys here told me to use my round cutter until I got used to it. That helped me a lot! I would definitely get round cutters also!


 
It's funny, I believe the name brand guys say (correct me if I'm wrong), the square cutters are the "roughers" and the round cutters are the "finishers". It's totally the opposite for me. I use my carbides on pens only and nothing else and I feel way more comfortable using the round cutter for roughing and making my final couple of passes with the square for a really smooth surface. The round cutters just seem to be much easier to control.


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## mikespenturningz (Feb 19, 2013)

It's that way for me too. If you get too aggressive with the 4" curve and get to the point they will gouge right in. The trick is to see where the cut is being made and stay away from the edges. It is very much like using your skew. If you keep the cut away from the edges of the skew you will have good results. If you allow the tip or heal to hit you are going to make a mess. Same with the carbide tools. I can make a very light cut or a very heavy cut with the round insert. I can also lower the handle and get a very clean cut for finishing. You have to practice practice practice and get used to the tool before you will be a master of it.


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## RMayoIII (Feb 19, 2013)

Hendu3270 said:


> It's funny, I believe the name brand guys say (correct me if I'm wrong), the square cutters are the "roughers" and the round cutters are the "finishers". It's totally the opposite for me. I use my carbides on pens only and nothing else and I feel way more comfortable using the round cutter for roughing and making my final couple of passes with the square for a really smooth surface. The round cutters just seem to be much easier to control.



I thought maybe something was wrong with the way I use the tools but I see I'm not the only one that uses them "backwards"! The round cutters, for me, do a super quick roughing with far less catching than the squares and if use the squares for more than a quick smoothing I get a ton of chatter. Does anyone else get that or is it my technique?


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## Nikitas (Feb 19, 2013)

I love my carbide tools!


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## Sylvanite (Feb 19, 2013)

Hendu3270 said:


> ... if a carbide cutter is made for metal, it's sure as heck gonna cut wood like butter. Not neccesarily the other way around.


As I understand it, cutters made for metal  have a different relief angle than cutters for wood.  You want to get the ones made for wood.

Regards,
Eric


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## plano_harry (Feb 19, 2013)

RMayoIII said:


> I thought maybe something was wrong with the way I use the tools but I see I'm not the only one that uses them "backwards"! The round cutters, for me, do a super quick roughing with far less catching than the squares and if use the squares for more than a quick smoothing I get a ton of chatter. Does anyone else get that or is it my technique?


 
I don't have any round cutters, I probably should try one.  Seems to me it would be harder to turn a straight side with a round cutter than a radiused one.  

Regarding chatter on the radiused or square cutter, I presume you are holding it flat when that happens.  If your tool rest is in close and the top cutting edge of your cutter is on the centerline, you might try dropping the handle a little to ride the bevel a little more.  A sharp tool should not chatter if the tool rest is set right and you are not below center.  Hope I understood your questoin and that it helps.


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## Hendu3270 (Feb 19, 2013)

Sylvanite said:


> Hendu3270 said:
> 
> 
> > ... if a carbide cutter is made for metal, it's sure as heck gonna cut wood like butter. Not neccesarily the other way around.
> ...


 
That makes sense. But a quick up or down of the handle slightly would bring the bevel into proper position though. If I'm thinking about that right.


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## rossvh (Feb 20, 2013)

Hendu3270 said:


> It's funny, I believe the name brand guys say (correct me if I'm wrong), the square cutters are the "roughers" and the round cutters are the "finishers". It's totally the opposite for me. I use my carbides on pens only and nothing else and I feel way more comfortable using the round cutter for roughing and making my final couple of passes with the square for a really smooth surface. The round cutters just seem to be much easier to control.


Ditto for me. Much better control with round and then light touch on the square to finish.
RossVH


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## wood-of-1kind (Feb 20, 2013)

Sylvanite said:


> Hendu3270 said:
> 
> 
> > ... if a carbide cutter is made for metal, it's sure as heck gonna cut wood like butter. Not neccesarily the other way around.
> ...



100% correct.


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## walshjp17 (Feb 20, 2013)

I have some EWT and some of Eddie Castelin's carbide tools.  Like them both.  For best results, *you definitely need to hold the tools so they are level to the floor* as mentioned previously (unless your floor is warped :tongue.  EWT sells a small level that you can use (Velcro onto your tools) to help you learn to keep it level.  Or, any small (1" or so) level will work.

My favorite is the EWT Easy Pen Turner.  I use it and a Spindle Master on almost all of my pens.


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## crokett (Feb 20, 2013)

I do something most don't with my radiused carbide cutters.  I will roll the tool on its side to do shear cuts. For difficult wood and rounding off square blanks this helps prevent blowout.


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## RMayoIII (Feb 20, 2013)

crokett said:


> I do something most don't with my radiused carbide cutters.  I will roll the tool on its side to do shear cuts. For difficult wood and rounding off square blanks this helps prevent blowout.



That is how I use my square and radiused cutters also. Every time I try to keep them level to the floor they catch horribly! Even though I use a shearing cut they still chatter though. I'm going to have to try a different height on the rest to see if it goes away. Thats the biggest reason I only use them for light finishing touches.


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## jcm71 (Feb 20, 2013)

mikespenturningz said:


> It's that way for me too. If you get too aggressive with the 4" curve and get to the point they will gouge right in. The trick is to see where the cut is being made and stay away from the edges. It is very much like using your skew. If you keep the cut away from the edges of the skew you will have good results. If you allow the tip or heal to hit you are going to make a mess. Same with the carbide tools. I can make a very light cut or a very heavy cut with the round insert. I can also lower the handle and get a very clean cut for finishing. You have to practice practice practice and get used to the tool before you will be a master of it.



Strange, because I usually have no problem doing just that.  I always lead with the left edge (corner) especially when I'm approaching the bushing.  No problems.  It's a little different leading with the right corner due to the cant of the cutter in the tool.  I usually then just reverse the blank in the lathe and lead with the left.  BTW I use a 4" curve exclusively.   Different paths to the same destination I guess.


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## mikespenturningz (Feb 20, 2013)

BURLMAN said:


> mikespenturningz said:
> 
> 
> > It's that way for me too. If you get too aggressive with the 4" curve and get to the point they will gouge right in. The trick is to see where the cut is being made and stay away from the edges. It is very much like using your skew. If you keep the cut away from the edges of the skew you will have good results. If you allow the tip or heal to hit you are going to make a mess. Same with the carbide tools. I can make a very light cut or a very heavy cut with the round insert. I can also lower the handle and get a very clean cut for finishing. You have to practice practice practice and get used to the tool before you will be a master of it.
> ...



Those edges just killed me. I was new to the tool too maybe I will give it another try now that I have been using it for 8 months or so?


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## crokett (Feb 21, 2013)

RMayoIII said:


> crokett said:
> 
> 
> > I do something most don't with my radiused carbide cutters.  I will roll the tool on its side to do shear cuts. For difficult wood and rounding off square blanks this helps prevent blowout.
> ...



I have 2 shop-built carbide tools.  One has 1/2" cutter.  the bar is about 14: long, the handle is another 16" or so.  I thought that was huge for pens so built another much smaller tool.  I started having problems with it.  On square blanks it is light and gets knocked around easier.  The big tool has more mass.  Also, the big tool I actually have more control with. I can lock it to my side with my elbow and just use slight body movements to move it around.  I switch to the smaller tool for final shaping.


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## jcm71 (Feb 21, 2013)

mikespenturningz said:


> BURLMAN said:
> 
> 
> > mikespenturningz said:
> ...



Good luck.  Just don't be to aggressive. Shallow cuts only and go slow.  Just to clarify, I don't lead with the left edge when the blank is out of round.  I probably should have been clear about that in my original post.  I've also had success addressing the blank with the handle about 45 degrees to the left and cutting with the corner.   Haven't tried turning the tool on its side yet.  That's coming.


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## mikespenturningz (Feb 22, 2013)

I put the #4 back in my carbide tool. Wow this works great. I guess I just needed more experience. Not a single catch. I was trying to use it more like a scraper back when I first got the tool. It works much better now that I have gained more control over it to begin with.


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## healeydays (Mar 4, 2013)

healeydays said:


> I bought my set from RusDemka.
> 
> He makes full and mini sets and the price is right.



I just realized Dema is not on this site.  Here is a link to his cutters.

F/S 3 Piece mini tool set for Easy wood tool Carbide cutters


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## lrawlins (Mar 4, 2013)

*Carbide for wood vs. metal*



swampgobbler said:


> the high dollar ones claim to use carbide cutters made from wood and suggest the "cheaper" models are using cutters made for metal.  is this true?  i've only used one cheap model I got from ebay and I didn't like it.  was thinking of trying a different brand




The difference is the geometry of the carbide insert. Most metal cutting inserts have a negative cutting angle. To us wood turners they would be so dull they wouldn't cut anything. Metal cutting is often by brute force rather than a shear action.

If you opt for a metal cutting insert it needs to have a positive cutting rake and also be ground rather than molded.

Bye,


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## ghostrider (Mar 4, 2013)

I have the EWT Mini-Finisher. I've used a friend's Woodchuch. I also have one I made from a set of Harbor Freight cutters. The HF tool is good for roughing, and generaly speaking the carbide tools are great for those times when my skew is dull and/or I'm having a problem sharpening it. When my skew is sharp it leaves the blanks nicely finished and don't even need to sand. 

I don't think the carbide tools raise my skill level as much as they allow me to use less of it. Like the skew though, they can be unforgiving if not used properly. The carbides seem to be much less forgiving than a skew, and that lets me concentrate more on shaping and finishing the piece whereas the skew demands attention to a little more. Of course, the carbides don't need good honing skills (Excepting the HF tool I made. That needed to be re-beveled and sharpened).


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## Lenny (Mar 4, 2013)

I love my woodchuck pen pro! Can't imagine turning pens without it. Oh, I could ... But I don't want to! Well worth the money and I feel good about supporting a fellow IAP member!


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## deemka (Mar 5, 2013)

healeydays said:


> healeydays said:
> 
> 
> > I bought my set from RusDemka.
> ...


 

I am a member here, just havnt visited for a while, too many forums 
anyway, i use carbides tools that i made myself and it didnt cost me $120, there is nothing wrong with buying the genuine tools if your budget allows you to, but mine doesnt, so i make my own because i have access to a machine shop. I love to use th carbides especially on ALumilite and some of the harder wood pen blanks, i mainly use my mini set,, :laugh:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f15...ece-mini-tool-set-ewt-carbide-cutters-108315/


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