# Help with making Chiyogami blanks



## kovalcik (Jul 29, 2014)

Need some help with my Chiyogami blanks, specifically with gluing the paper onto the tube. 

I tried with Mod Podge. I had problems getting the paper to stick at the seam and ended up working the paper so much it got dull and blurred in places. I also ended up with issues of the paper not being tight to the tube all the way around. I have never used Mod Podge before, so I may be doing something wrong there. The good news is I cast and turned it just for the heck of it and the side of the tube that was not overworked looked great. I want to try another with CA and see if I have better luck.

In the meantime, is anyone willing to share their secrets to gluing the paper to the tube? Also, how do you do the seam? Straight cut? Overlap?

Thanks


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## Kenny Durrant (Jul 29, 2014)

I'm not familiar with the paper you are talking about but I haven't had any luck with Mod Podge. I tried it several times and had failures every time. I believe others use it with no problems so it must be me. I did like the way it made the colors pop and seemed to be a better product than Elmers White Glue. But that's the only thing that works for me other than C.A. I use Elmers because it gives me time to adjust or play with whatever I'm gluing. There are other threads about hiding seams that mention not using straight lines and a few others. Since you live a little far I guess I can't hold it against you for not coming to the last North Texas IAP Meeting. There Mr.Ward told us about using a pen or marker to color the white edge of the paper to help hide the seam. I've used this method and it works really well. I hope Don doesn't mind me repeating that but I guess since he made it public and didn't tell us not to repeat it it would be ok.  Good Luck.


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## plantman (Jul 29, 2014)

Tom; Go to your local craft store and look for Tacky Glue. It is usuly used to attach jewels to candles or glass Christmas balls. Works for me every time.   Jim  S


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## Janster (Jul 30, 2014)

........I use Mod Podge and it works for me, PERFECTLY! PM me if you wish to.
....Good luck.... Jan


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## seamus7227 (Jul 30, 2014)

Try using Medium CA with latex gloves on(gives you a longer working time if you wear them).  There is someone on here that makes those blanks and by the looks of them, uses a wavy pattern to try and hide the seam. You may actually be able to buy those scissors with that pattern on them. 

Like this, but bigger waves


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## plantman (Jul 30, 2014)

seamus7227 said:


> Try using Medium CA with latex gloves on(gives you a longer working time if you wear them).  There is someone on here that makes those blanks and by the looks of them, uses a wavy pattern to try and hide the seam. You may actually be able to buy those scissors with that pattern on them.
> 
> Like this, but bigger waves



Go to the craft or fabric store and look for Fiskars Paper Edgers Scissor Sets. They will cut a number of designs to hide your seams. Usualy comes in a set of 6 designs, and will be in the sewing or scrapbook sections. $13.50 for the set of contemporary or classic edgers. # 12-93017897 or #12-93007097J. Can also be purchased on Amazon. Click on seamus7227 "this" and go to the middle of the page, you will see these sets there also.  Jim  S


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## Brooks803 (Jul 30, 2014)

you can find those scissors at hobby lobby for just a couple bucks each


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## plantman (Jul 30, 2014)

Brooks803 said:


> you can find those scissors at hobby lobby for just a couple bucks each



Or you colud use the 50% off cupon and get the set 6 for $6.75.  Jim  S


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## kovalcik (Jul 31, 2014)

I did cut a wavy pattern by hand.  I was mostly wondering if anyone else did something like that.  Apparently yes.  At least I got something right.


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## edstreet (Aug 1, 2014)

kovalcik said:


> Need some help with my Chiyogami blanks, specifically with gluing the paper onto the tube.
> 
> I tried with Mod Podge. I had problems getting the paper to stick at the seam and ended up working the paper so much it got dull and blurred in places. I also ended up with issues of the paper not being tight to the tube all the way around. I have never used Mod Podge before, so I may be doing something wrong there. The good news is I cast and turned it just for the heck of it and the side of the tube that was not overworked looked great. I want to try another with CA and see if I have better luck.
> 
> ...




I can tell you that this paper has an interesting track record.  The biggest problem is this is a high moisture paper; add to the fact this paper is made with water based gum which holds the fibers together; then on top of that it's heat retention properties when using natural materials, if they use artificial materials the retention is not there.

Also I would like to throw in the the makers of Mod Podge states to wait FOUR (4) weeks before doing any casting or top coating, to allow for proper drying time.  Mod Podge is a water based product and you are putting that on top of a water based, water retaining material.  If you do not believe this then call them and ask.  Contact Plaid Enterprises   Customer Service: 1-800-842-4197 M-F 8am - 5pm EST  (If anyone is curious then the answer is Yes I did call them about this product, this week in fact.)

How long does it take my Mod Podge project to cure? | Plaid Enterprises



> Q: How long does it take my Mod Podge project to cure?
> A: With a medium coat of Mod Podge, the project should cure in about 2 to 3 weeks. Allow for longer curing times if applying more or thicker coats.


I was told the FOUR (4) week cure time was under IDEAL conditions and it would not hurt to wait LONGER.


Next I would like to say that this material is very reactive.  It does SHIFT when the moisture content changes.  So, what does this mean?  This means that your glue must be strong enough to hold it in place and prevent it from moving.  Standard CA does *NOT* fit the bill, the paper can pull loose esp with the change in moisture content.  Agents like anaerobic epoxy's and marine grade epoxy's is likely going to hold better, something in the non-flexible flavors.  Also as a top coat over the paper you want something to saturate the paper and hold it, preventing movement.  If you are casting over top of this paper and the paper changes state, i.e. lower moisture content, the paper will pull loose from the casting and leave very visible air bubbles.  I strongly suspect that E-30CL will be the goto glue for this paper.

You also want some type of sealer for the ends of the tube.  That is correct, seal the ends of the tube.  This will slow down moisture movement.  Also when turning the tube, i.e. cleaning/trimming/dressing/facing the ends, you want to re-seal the ends to prevent this problem.  Failure to re-seal the ends can easily result in air pockets between the paper and the casting.












This is what we are dealing with on this paper.  As you can see from the layout the wick effect is likely expanded.


As for cutting the paper I see time and time again seams.  Regardless of who claims "seamless" it still sticks out like a sore thumb when I look at them.  Very rarely do I not see the seam.  When rotating the blank the end jumps out at you as there is a shelf.  To prevent this tapering the end in a V shape would help greatly, or simply do not over lap the paper.  As for cutting in any specific shape that should be left up to the pattern to decide, oh and cut around the pattern as that's one of the biggest problems I see.  The pattern gets broken and that alone sticks out like a sore thumb.


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## Kenny Durrant (Aug 1, 2014)

If the paper is falling apart put the paper on a nonstick surface and coat it with watered down elmers glue. Let dry and peel the paper off and it should be as stiff as a playing card. Cut to fit then put a light coat of elmers on the paper to glue it to the tube. I use a cut pen kit bag and wrap it around the tube and paper to act as a clamp. After 30 min to an hour I remove the wrap and let dry. I let it cure for a couple of days then I cast.


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