# I Compiled a Beginners-Starters List of Equipment/Tools. Please Critique.



## CoastalRyan (Jan 7, 2013)

Its been 16 years since I've turned a pen or even used a lathe so I'm not 100% green but I'm far enough removed from wood working that I know I could benefit from some help putting together a comprehensive list of what I'll need to get started. I basically have nothing as of now so this list needs to be as complete as possible.

I will be purchasing everything at once. I'm coming in at right around 1,900. I don't have a set budget but I want to make prudent and smart purchases.

I've searched and read for awhile now so I could compile at least the basics but I know there has to be things I'm missing and I'm sure it'll be obvious to you guys. 

I need criticisms, suggestions, additions or subtractions for my list. Is there a better place, better product, better maker or better price somewhere else?
*
Lathe* - Delta 46-460 - 679.00

I get the impression that this is one of my better choices for under 800 or 1K dollars. I would like a little diversity with my lathe and some room to grow...possibly bowl work or other midsize projects. Amazon was the best price I could find.







Delta Industrial 46-460 12-1/2-Inch Variable-Speed Midi Lathe - Amazon.com

*2nd Choice* - Nova Comet II Midi Lathe

NOVA Comet II Midi Lathe

*Drill Press* - Northern Tools Industrial Drill Press - 240.00 + 50.00 Drill Bits

Again I wanted some room to grow here. I'm seeing less than a 100 dollar difference between something smaller and something larger. So I'm going a bit bigger.






Northern Industrial Floor Drill Press — 16-Speed, 3/4 HP | Drill Presses| Northern Tool + Equipment

*Buffer Wheel* - Wel-Bilt Benchtop Nothern Tool - 89.99

I'm clueless on quality buffers. Can't help but think I can do better here.






FREE SHIPPING — Wel-Bilt Benchtop Buffer — 3/4 HP, 8in. Dia. Wheel | Polishers Sanders| Northern Tool + Equipment

WoodTurningz had a number of things on this page that I think I would need.

Tools & Accessories - WoodTurningz

*Centering Vise for drilling blanks* - 47.95






*Milescraft Pen Press* - 48.95






*#1 & #2 Morse Taper Mandrel* - 16.95 X 2






*Live Center* - If I choose to go that route 17.95 X 2






*Pliers and Punch Set* - 27.50






*Universal Mandrel for Delta Lathe* - 17.50






*HSS Chisel Set* - 79.95 - I have no idea if this is quality or not. I do know that HSS blades are preferred. 






Amazon.com: PSI Woodworking LCSIXW High Speed Steel Wood Lathe Chisel Turning Set, 6-Piece: Home Improvement
*
Barrel Trimmer/Cleaner* - 34.99






http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18001&site=ROCKLER

*Needle File Set* - 7.00






Amazon.com: TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece: Home Improvement

*Band Saw Alternative* - 179.99 - I was surprised at how expensive Band Saws are. It would be nice to be able to cut both wood and metal but I can't help but wonder if something diverse like this would be okay at both but great at neither.






Blade Runner with Wall Mount-RK7321 at The Home Depot

*Klutch Disk Sander Northern Tool* - 159.99






FREE SHIPPING — Klutch Disc Sander — 12in., 1 HP | Polishers Sanders| Northern Tool + Equipment

*Finishing Supplies* - 150.00 - I don't really know how I'll be finishing my work. I figure I'd experiment with different methods before deciding which I feel the best about. 

I'm leaving pen kits and wood off for now because I was going to decide at a later point what styles I'd be interested in starting with.


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## glycerine (Jan 7, 2013)

I will make a few suggestions.  I see you list 2 live centers.  You don't plan on using one in the headstock do you???  If so, you'll need a dead center there instead of live.  I would also suggest investing in a good scroll chuck and Jacobs chuck and do your drilling on the lathe.


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## flyitfast (Jan 7, 2013)

Good starter list, but with those chisels (or any) you are going to need a way to keep them SHARP.  So, maybe add some kind of sharpening system/grinder.


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## D.Oliver (Jan 7, 2013)

You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.

Also in regard to mandrels why do you have both #1 and #2 mandrals listed as well as the Univerisal mandral?  I know the delta takes a #2.  Does the Nova take a #1?   Are you buying a Morse taper mandrel and a universal mandral or will it be one or the other?


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## The Penguin (Jan 7, 2013)

get a Beall buffing system to use on your lathe (or the Peachtree knockoff), or get a variable speed grinder. You can use the grinder for tool sharpening.

you could skip the pen press and press on the lathe or on the drill press.


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## ianjwebster (Jan 7, 2013)

I'm still learning myself so take this for what it's worth!!! I bought a lathe and accessories second hand - came with a pen press. I used it until it broke recently then moved to a 'C' clamp. Personally the 'C' clamp does a better job for a lot less money. Similarly, the centering vice. On the advice of an assistant at Woodcraft I made my own out or a few off cuts and toggle clamps. Worked just fine untill I tried the PSI chuck for drtilling blanks on the lathe. Works like a dream - never looked back.


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## redbulldog (Jan 7, 2013)

There are a lot of people on IAP that really like to drill on the lathe. I AM NOT one of them, I dispise having to drill any of my blanks on the lathe, I have my Shopsmith running again (after the move), and will only use that method of drilling my blanks, I have much better control for every aspect of the blank drilling with my Shopsmith!!!
I will NOT argue this with anyone, this is my decision  and it works better for me!!
redbulldog


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## monark88 (Jan 7, 2013)

Instead of the pen press, I use a 1 ton arbor press from Harbor freight.

1 Ton Arbor Press & Other Arbor Presses - Harbor Freight Tools

Russ


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 7, 2013)

D.Oliver said:


> You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.
> 
> Also in regard to mandrels why do you have both #1 and #2 mandrals listed as well as the Univerisal mandral?  I know the delta takes a #2.  Does the Nova take a #1?   Are you buying a Morse taper mandrel and a universal mandral or will it be one or the other?



I have all those listed out of shear ignorance. I wasn't sure which or what was applicable. I'm so far removed from having used this kind of equipment I know they'll be a short period of relearning and familiarization with getting set up and the proper pieces to use.


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 7, 2013)

The Penguin said:


> get a Beall buffing system to use on your lathe (or the Peachtree knockoff), or get a variable speed grinder. You can use the grinder for tool sharpening.
> 
> you could skip the pen press and press on the lathe or on the drill press.


I bookmarked Beall's page. Thanks for the lead. I'll skip on the pen press since a more than few here feel that its redundant.


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## BRobbins629 (Jan 7, 2013)

I agree that you should also invest in one of the many tool sharpening devices out there.  Many pros do fine with a low speed (1750rpm) grinder but many other methods are out there.  How about some work benches to put this stuff on?  

As far as turing tools, you might consider fewer than a whole set and better quality.  Some turn with just a skew.  Other despise it.  The replaceable carbide insert tools are popular with many.  A few on this site sell pretty nice ones and if its just for pens, that's all you need to get started.  You can add others as projects dictate.

You will like a standing drill press - saves valuable benchtop space.


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## D.Oliver (Jan 7, 2013)

CoastalRyan said:


> D.Oliver said:
> 
> 
> > You can also do your buffing on the lathe, if you wanted to save a few dollors there.
> ...


 
Not a problem.  We all started fresh at one time or another.  I just went and looked and the Nova lathe also takes a Morse Taper #2, or MT2, so you will not not MT1, or morse taper #1.  The differnce between the universal mandral and the MT2 mandral is simply how they attach to the headstock.  The MT2 mandrel uses a morse taper, as the name suggest, and the universal mandrel threads onto the head stock.  You would really only need one or the other, but not both.


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 7, 2013)

BRobbins629 said:


> I agree that you should also invest in one of the many tool sharpening devices out there.  Many pros do fine with a low speed (1750rpm) grinder but many other methods are out there.  How about some work benches to put this stuff on?
> 
> As far as turing tools, you might consider fewer than a whole set and better quality.  Some turn with just a skew.  Other despise it.  The replaceable carbide insert tools are popular with many.  A few on this site sell pretty nice ones and if its just for pens, that's all you need to get started.  You can add others as projects dictate.
> 
> You will like a standing drill press - saves valuable benchtop space.


Maybe I can scrap the smaller disk grinder and go with one of those belt/disk combined units. Jet makes a 2x42 combo that should handle any sharpening I might need.



D.Oliver said:


> CoastalRyan said:
> 
> 
> > D.Oliver said:
> ...


Thanks for clearing that up. That'll cut back on at least a little cost.


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## randyrls (Jan 7, 2013)

Ryan;  The pen press IS redundant, but consider tools useful for more than one thing instead of single purpose tools.   I press pens together with the wood workers vise on my work bench.  You only need two chisels for pens.  One skew and one gouge 3/4" to 1" size each.   The pen mill isn't needed, just use the disc sander to mill the pen blank ends.  I use my disc sander to sharpen chisels.


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## cagey44 (Jan 7, 2013)

When I recently started turning pens again I jumped in with the between the centers movement and wow it is so much better than worrying with Mandels. I had started to have issues with previous mandrels being out of round when I packed things away to move. Now that I am back to turning the BTC seems like common sense. Only had one problem so far and that was user error caught a edge and blew out a blank when turning M 3


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## maxwell_smart007 (Jan 7, 2013)

My starter list: 

HF lathe
HF chisels
delta slow speed grinder (to sharpen chisels)
HF drill press
HF arbor press
adjustable mandrel
live center

Other tools as needed...


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## Lenny (Jan 7, 2013)

By no means would I discourage you from buying a drill press, I have one and wouldn't want to part with it, however, You COULD use the money spent on that to by a very good quality Beall collet chuck and set of 18 metric collets and do all your pen blank drilling on the lathe. I realize not everyone WANTS to drill on the lathe but once you get used to it you will find it's very precise and the collet chuck has many, many uses! 
I purchased the Harbor Freight set of HSS turning tools and have recommended them to others many times, but I do agree that one good Skew (1" would be my choice) and maybe one good gouge (again 1") along with a home made parting tool will turn any pen you ever want to make! 
Certainly not an essential but the Woodchuck Pen Pro would be on many penturner's list of tools they DON'T want to give up! It will handle all those tough materials like trustone and antler and keep you from constantly running back to the grinder to get a good edge! 
Just a few random thoughts, fwiw!


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## Monty (Jan 7, 2013)

cagey44 said:


> When I recently started turning pens again I jumped in with the between the centers movement and wow it is so much better than worrying with Mandels. I had started to have issues with previous mandrels being out of round when I packed things away to move. Now that I am back to turning the BTC seems like common sense. Only had one problem so far and that was user error caught a edge and blew out a blank when turning M 3



I agree, start by learningv to turn between centers and it will save frustration with out of round barrels. Also, if you go with Harbor Freight tools, look at their band saw and transfer punches.


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 7, 2013)

Lenny said:


> By no means would I discourage you from buying a drill press, I have one and wouldn't want to part with it, however, You COULD use the money spent on that to by a very good quality Beall collet chuck and set of 18 metric collets and do all your pen blank drilling on the lathe. I realize not everyone WANTS to drill on the lathe but once you get used to it you will find it's very precise and the collet chuck has many, many uses!
> I purchased the Harbor Freight set of HSS turning tools and have recommended them to others many times, but I do agree that one good Skew (1" would be my choice) and maybe one good gouge (again 1") along with a home made parting tool will turn any pen you ever want to make!
> Certainly not an essential but the Woodchuck Pen Pro would be on many penturner's list of tools they DON'T want to give up! It will handle all those tough materials like trustone and antler and keep you from constantly running back to the grinder to get a good edge!
> Just a few random thoughts, fwiw!


I will most likely still want an upright drill press. I bookmarked that Woodchuck Pen Pro site, thanks.

For everyone, I noticed the Comet II has an attachment for a grinding wheel. That would be a nice space and cost saver. Does anyone feel that the Delta is that much better than the Comet?


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## The Penguin (Jan 7, 2013)

personally, I wouldn't want to stop turning, take *whatever* off the lathe, install grinding wheel, sharpen, and then reverse process.


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 7, 2013)

The Penguin said:


> personally, I wouldn't want to stop turning, take *whatever* off the lathe, install grinding wheel, sharpen, and then reverse process.


The grinding wheel on the Comet II attaches on the outer side. So there would be no changing.

NOVA Comet II Midi Lathe


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## wiset1 (Jan 7, 2013)

This is just me, but I would lose the:

Drill Press, Centering Vise, & Barrel Trimmer.  Now let me tell you why...You can drill ON your lathe with a "Dedicated Pen Chuck" and a "Drill Chuck"...link depending on which morse taper you have on the lathe you buy, MT1 or MT2. Less travel if any on your bits in the blank and less space used in your shop.

I would also replace the "Disk Sander" and get a  "Belt/Disk Sander" which you'll get loads of use out of.

Not sure why you need the file set, but a cheap grinder from Lowes, or The Home Depot will keep your gouge and skew in business. I purchased the Carbide tipped set of 3 and they have taken real abuse with the segmented pens with brass and aluminum inlays.  Not sure if HSS would have done that so I've been VERY happy with the Carbide tipped ones.

Hope this helps!


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## Jjcold (Jan 7, 2013)

*Pen press*

you could skip the pen press and press on the lathe or on the drill press.[/QUOTE]

I used to think I had to have a pen press, but I saw a You Tube vid of a guy using an Irwin speedy clamp (the blue and yellow one that you squeeze, etc) and I have used the same with good luck.  Now, that said, I haven't built a lot of pens yet so someone with more experience might disagree.  

Definitely get room in your budget for a way to sharpen those chisels, or go with the fast wood system of carbide chisels.  

I have the Jet 1014 VS mini lathe and love it.  I have heard good and bad for the Delta. Check your local Craigslist for used lathes and drill presses.  I also bought my drill press on CL and am very pleased with it.  You have to be careful, but I have only been burned once on CL and even that wasn't too bad (a DeWalt planer that was advertised as "new" when it clearly wasn't.  With some tune up and cleaning, turned out okay)


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## Smitty37 (Jan 8, 2013)

redbulldog said:


> There are a lot of people on IAP that really like to drill on the lathe. I AM NOT one of them, I dispise having to drill any of my blanks on the lathe, I have my Shopsmith running again (after the move), and will only use that method of drilling my blanks, I have much better control for every aspect of the blank drilling with my Shopsmith!!!
> I will NOT argue this with anyone, this is my decision  and it works better for me!!
> redbulldog


I agree here...I can have a half dozen blanks done on my drill press while I'd still be getting the lathe set up.  I drill some on the lathe usually for a specific reason.


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## 76winger (Jan 8, 2013)

Smitty37 said:


> redbulldog said:
> 
> 
> > There are a lot of people on IAP that really like to drill on the lathe. I AM NOT one of them, I dispise having to drill any of my blanks on the lathe, I have my Shopsmith running again (after the move), and will only use that method of drilling my blanks, I have much better control for every aspect of the blank drilling with my Shopsmith!!!
> ...



Technically I don't have a lathe to drill on since the Shopsmith works better has a horizontal drill while holding the blank steady instead of the reverse like those drilling on the lathe. That said, I have a dedicated drill press and use it for drilling unless I have an application where the tilting base of the Shopsmith allows me to do a certain angle drilling task easier. 

Having multiple tools does take up more floor space, but if you got the floor space having each tool set up for a particular operation bypasses time spent reconfiguring. But I think this scenario would be for someone who's been turning pens for a while and not necessarily a base for a beginner like this thread started out listing. 

Once it's all hashed, I think it'd be fun to see a final list!


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## stonepecker (Jan 8, 2013)

If this is truely a beginners list of things....ONE good reference book is worth it's weight in saved steps.  Keep it close by and when you have a question....go there first.
And like others have said.....2 tools are all you need to start.  (Keeping them sharp is whats important)  Once the bug bites, then you can try others.


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## Joe Burns (Jan 9, 2013)

I'll second drilling on the lathe.  I find it to be much easier and more accurate.  I quickly moved away from using a skew for turning pens and went to a carbide tool.  For me was much easier to use.

Joe


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## jbswearingen (Jan 9, 2013)

I think this is a horrible list for a beginner.

Unless he's rich.


Get a used lathe on CL.  Stay away from $500 mini lathes.  My full sized 12"x48" 1971 Delta Rockwell cost me $300.  It runs as well today as it did new.

Don't bother with a drill press.  Especially some cheap POS that has a quill stroke of 2".  Get a chuck for the lathe with jaws designed for holding blanks.  It'll see a helluva lot more use than a crappy drill press.  Then get a Jacob's chuck for the tail stock to hold the drill bit.

Pen Blank Drilling Jaws for C Series Lathe Chucks at Penn State Industries

Skip the sander.  Get a cheap, crappy drill press and an end mill to square the ends of the blank.  Or use the Jacob's chuck in the lathe's head stock.

Skip that mandrel.  Get PSI's Mandrel Saver system--no more bent mandrels.

#2 MT Pen Mandrel Saver Package at Penn State Industries

Skip the pen press.  Get PSI's magnetic press pieces--they mount to the lathe and take up less space.

Lathe Pen Press Inserts at Penn State Industries

Pliers and punch set?  What for?  I have the punch set, but hold the pen in my hand and tap the punch with a rubber mallet if I need to remove a piece--less chance of damaging the pen than using pliers or a vice (even rubber coated) to hold it.

Most centering vices for the drill press suck.


Yeah, I sound like a PSI fanboy.  I'm really not, but they do put out some good products.  I use all of these tools and love them.

Buy gouges as you need them.  Don't buy a kit unless you like to have tools sit around unused.  Most pen turners can get away with two, three gouges--roughing gouge (95% of my work), a skew (I rarely use, but others swear by), and maybe, MAYBE a parting tool, though these are rarely needed.

As mentioned, you'll need a sharpening system.  I use an HF 8" 3700 grinder with a Wolverine attachment.  Works great, though I'd like to eventually get 1700 grinder.

I hate to sound rude, you're wasting SO much money with this list you've compiled.


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 9, 2013)

jbswearingen said:


> I think this is a horrible list for a beginner.
> 
> Unless he's rich.
> 
> ...


I'm not rich but just wanted to make sure that when I do make the investment I'll be doing it with equipment that will last, or won't leave me needing to upgrade in a short time.

I've entered a number of hobbies by just limping in with the minimum and always find myself spending more in the long run because minimal parts and tooling will eventually have to be replaced as things progress or get more serious. I also made similar mistakes with my business and ended up replacing a number of cheaper pieces of equipment with tools I should have just sprung for out of the gate.

You don't sound rude. I definitely want to save money where I can and the best way to do that is to get the cold hard truth from those who do this.

CL won't be a good source at least not locally. I'm in a pretty small city and there aren't many listings for commercial or advanced hobby tooling. I could look at some of the bigger cities nearby but transporting something 120 miles isn't very appealing.

What considerations should I make if I were to buy a fullsize lathe and need to transport it 100-200 miles? This has Chevy Chase movie written all over it but if there's little concern over damaging the equipment I'll broaden my options.

My other fear would be not knowing what to look for in a used lathe.

My initial impression was that I'd would invest around 2-2500. But the more I consider all the posts and the various paths I can take I think I can keep this a lot closer to 1,200.00 and still leave myself some room to grow and add tooling as things go. 

I'll be sitting on this list for at least a short while so I can consider all my options.

You guys have been a great deal of help. Thanks for all the good information to digest here.


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## jbswearingen (Jan 9, 2013)

We can help in the used lathe department; you just need to ask.  Heck, go join up at Old Woodworking Machines &bull; Index page -- we strive to keep old iron equipment in running order.  We have a very active classified section there where you'll be able to find a good, running, competent machine for pennies on the dollar compared to what you can buy new.

I should have looked at your location; yeah, CL isn't a great place for equipment down there.  Here, though, it's a boon.  I'm just south of Baltimore, and not too far from PA, where old equipment can be found often and cheap.


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 9, 2013)

stonepecker said:


> If this is truely a beginners list of things....ONE good reference book is worth it's weight in saved steps.  Keep it close by and when you have a question....go there first.
> And like others have said.....2 tools are all you need to start.  (Keeping them sharp is whats important)  Once the bug bites, then you can try others.


This is actually something I shouldn't have over looked. I'm a book junkie. Are there two - three really good books I should own?



jbswearingen said:


> We can help in the used lathe department; you just need to ask.  Heck, go join up at Old Woodworking Machines &bull; Index page -- we strive to keep old iron equipment in running order.  We have a very active classified section there where you'll be able to find a good, running, competent machine for pennies on the dollar compared to what you can buy new.
> 
> I should have looked at your location; yeah, CL isn't a great place for equipment down there.  Here, though, it's a boon.  I'm just south of Baltimore, and not too far from PA, where old equipment can be found often and cheap.


I'll register and take a look. Won't shipping kill me though? Wouldn't a great buy on a 300 dollar lathe turn into 700 after shipping?


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## The Penguin (Jan 9, 2013)

if you don't mind coming to Houston - you can find some decent deals on used lathes occasionally.

in fact, I know of a 14" full-sized Delta that might need a new home.


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## stonepecker (Jan 9, 2013)

as far as shipping goes.......if you take the time and work with a person.....UShip on yahoo would be the cheapest way to get anything anywhere.  You can even say "I won't spend more then $200.00" and then you have to wait for someone to take up the offer.
Many of the drivers would rather have 3-4 small/med shippments as compared to one big one.


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## stonepecker (Jan 9, 2013)

Go to the local library and check out turning and penturning books.  Take a look at them and decide for yourself.  You don't need more then one to start.  And the information library here in the IAP is the best place to start.  The information here is priceless, some of the best around, and free.


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## Schoneweis (Jan 9, 2013)

Coastal Bend Woodturners is the local woodturning club in CC. their website is Blank. I suspect you can get enough info from one of their meetings that it will take a few days to sort it all out. 
http://www.coastalbendwoodturners.net/


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## CoastalRyan (Jan 9, 2013)

Schoneweis said:


> Coastal Bend Woodturners is the local woodturning club in CC. their website is Blank. I suspect you can get enough info from one of their meetings that it will take a few days to sort it all out.


I had no idea there would be so many members. Actually had no idea they even existed. Thanks!


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## jbswearingen (Jan 9, 2013)

Ryan--

You might find a member on OWWM that's close to you that has one for sale.  I'm willing to bet you'll DEFINITELY find one in a woodturners' club.  You'll probably be able to snag a bunch of stuff for really cheap, if not free (unused gouges, centers, etc.)


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## Tom T (Jan 9, 2013)

Safety glass and dust mask (fiberglass type) or a face mask helmet with blower and filter. 
Mandrel saver is the best, trust me on that.  Save the trouble I had.
A/C for the shop is also good.
I use a drill press and a disc/ belt sander.  Kept blowing out blanks on pen mill, especially two bladed model.  Your photo showed four blades.
I also like the pen press.  I have a different one then you listed.  Mine has a black knob on it got it at WC.
Also have a low speed grinder.
I use the beal buffing wheels, not the three on the shaft. Each is used one at a time, unscrew one and screw on the next one. Got them at WC.
I like the delta, it is easy to use.   I have a bigger powermatic it is great.  My WC guy saw me coming in the door and well I was easy.  But it is nice.
Yes I am crazy and like new stuff.  
When I buy used stuff it seems to not work out well for me.
There is so much to learn.  Jump in and be careful.  It's a blast.
Also wear closed toed shoes chisels are sharp if you drop them.
That reminds me, buy a rubber mat to stand on.


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## mikespenturningz (Jan 9, 2013)

I use a 
Dust Collector
Nova Comet 2 Lathe
Nova G3 Chuck with Pin Jaws
Keyless Chuck in Tailstock
WoodChuck Carbide Tool
Micro Mesh
WoodDoctors Walnut Oil for wet sanding
WoodDoctors Pen Finish
Pen Press
Cordless Drill
Pen Mill
File 
I have been turning between centers and think I like that better than a mandrel I will spring for more of the between centers bushings as I need to replace the old ones. That is about it other then drill bits I would much rather drill my blanks on my lathe. I used exactly this same setup on my shopsmith loved it there too.


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## Bowl Slinger (Jan 10, 2013)

As I always say, ask 10 different people, get 10 different answers.
IMHO I would loose the drill press and vise, go with the pen blank drilling chuck and a keyless drill chuck. 
Definitely invest in a mandrel saver for when you use the mandrel and a dead center to TBC. I used to use a C clamp for assembling then got the pen press. I prefer the press.
If you want to make a wise investment, loose those cheap chisels and go with a quality set. The cheap chisels will just frustrate you in the long run because they will not stay sharp for long. With just about everything that I can think of, sharper is better.
You will need some type of sharpening system. I use the Wolverine system and it works great for me no matter what chisel that Im sharpening.


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## CoastalRyan (Apr 13, 2013)

I completed my initial order. It took a few weeks to sort it out. There's probably cheaper ways to go about this, maybe better ways but this was the way I choose to do it. So at least here's one point of reference or path a beginner can take. 

I will be doing my drilling and buffing with the lathe, at least for now. Eventually I'll replace drilling with a drill press and polishing with a some kind of stand alone unit. 

I'd like to eventually add a complete set of wood turning tools and sharpening system/equipment but for the first month or so I can get by with the Pen Genie.

_______________________________________________________

- Nova Comet II Lathe ordered online from Woodturningz - 454.95

- Dedicated Pen Blank Drilling Chuck from Woodturningz - 76.95

- 27/64 drill bit from Woodturningz - 7.50

 - MT2 Dead Center from Woodturningz - 9.50

- Live 60* tailstock center from PSI - 15.95

- 1/2 Drill Chuck MT2 from PSI - 29.95

- Carbide Magic Pen Genie from PSI - 59.95

- 3 step lathe buffing system from PSI - 54.95

- 9 pack micro mesh sanding pads from PSI - 24.95

- Multi pack 150-600 grit rolls from PSI - 22.95

- Pen insertion tool from PSI - 10.95

- 7mm barrel trimmer, carbide from PSI - 24.50

- Barrel Trimming Sleeve for Gatsby kits from PSI - 3.95

- 10 pack cocobolo 5/8 x 5/8 x 5 from PSI - 14.95

- 4 Gatsby Chrome and Gunmetal kits from PSI - 27.80

- Between Centers Bushings from Penturners Products AKA Johnnycnc here on the forum - 10.00

- 1/2 Ton Arbor Press Harbor Freight - 35.99

So after shipping since I made these purchases over a few weeks I'm in it for about *950 bucks*. Keeping it under a grand with 4 warm up kits and wood.

There's a lot more I need to get but I figured from here on out I can pick things up as I go. I didn't get anything finish wise so the first few kits will just get polished and then I can start to decide what avenue I'll take from there.

Still open to hearing any additional suggestions, must have or go to items that I don't have.


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## Tim'sTurnings (Apr 14, 2013)

It looks like you are off to a *great* start Ryan. You have a lot more to start with than I did when I started. You will find out pretty soon what else you are going to need, even though you "_think_" you know. lol. 
I see the pen genie is a carbide scraper, I don't have one but I can see it on the PSI site. I hope you can use it at an angle like you would a skew or a gouge. I have not had good luck by using a scraper on pen blanks. I usually got a ruined/blow-out blank when I was near the ends of the piece. I only use a spindle gouge, versa chisel or skew on my blanks now.
Good luck, Tim.


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## CoastalRyan (Apr 14, 2013)

I can see with a squared rod leading to the tip that it would make it a lot harder to approach at an angle. I may have to go bigger and sand more if it doesn't work exactly how it needs to. I definitely need to add more chisels. Pretty high on my list.


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## lucky13 (Apr 14, 2013)

I would highly recommend this band saw Craftsman Band Saw: Make Every Cut Count with Sears instead of the blade runner thing that you have listed. I just picked this saw up yesterday and for the money I would have to say it is one of the best band saws I have used. And considering it is the same price as the saw that you have listed you get a lot more diversity with a band saw. I would also recommend instead of a live center, get a mandrel saver to use with your pen mandrel, it is almost as good as TBC because all the pressure is placed on the bushings instead of the mandrel it self.  Just my 2cents worth.


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## LagniappeRob (Apr 14, 2013)

Only scanned the thread, but didn't notice anyone mention it...I'd not go with the Blade Runner. Max cutting depth is 1 1/2" - that would severely limit you on anything bigger than pens.

I have a Comet II as well. Took longer than they said to get it, and got the run around from Nova about it, but when it did show up, I was pleased with it. There's been a couple little things with it. The reversing switch is in a bad spot IMHO. Getting my big hands in there to align everything was painful (literally!). I wish it had a little wide stand front to back. But overall it was well spent money.   BTW - I found my grinding wheel for it on Amazon... cheap but then they change prices all the time so you never know... put it in your cart then use the "save for later" link and it'll keep you informed about price changes.


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## Smitty37 (Apr 14, 2013)

lucky13 said:


> I would highly recommend this band saw Craftsman Band Saw: Make Every Cut Count with Sears instead of the blade runner thing that you have listed. I just picked this saw up yesterday and for the money I would have to say it is one of the best band saws I have used. And considering it is the same price as the saw that you have listed you get a lot more diversity with a band saw. I would also recommend instead of a live center, get a mandrel saver to use with your pen mandrel, it is almost as good as TBC because all the pressure is placed on the bushings instead of the mandrel it self.  Just my 2cents worth.


 I have a Ryobi BS1001SV that was pretty inexpensive and does everything I ask of it....as I recall it was only about $129.00 at Home Depot but that was probably 5 years ago.


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## CoastalRyan (Apr 15, 2013)

LagniappeRob said:


> Only scanned the thread, but didn't notice anyone mention it...I'd not go with the Blade Runner. Max cutting depth is 1 1/2" - that would severely limit you on anything bigger than pens.
> 
> I have a Comet II as well. Took longer than they said to get it, and got the run around from Nova about it, but when it did show up, I was pleased with it. There's been a couple little things with it. The reversing switch is in a bad spot IMHO. Getting my big hands in there to align everything was painful (literally!). I wish it had a little wide stand front to back. But overall it was well spent money.   BTW - I found my grinding wheel for it on Amazon... cheap but then they change prices all the time so you never know... put it in your cart then use the "save for later" link and it'll keep you informed about price changes.


Thankfully mine came quick. 4 days. But I could have killed the UPS guy. I watched him drive right past my house, stop at my neighbors, successfully dragged the box out of his van without a dolly, stopped halfway up my neighbors driveway and left it there. Then drove off. 

Woodturningz was smart enough to put the package into a second box so there wasn't any damage.


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## CoastalRyan (Apr 15, 2013)

Smitty37 said:


> lucky13 said:
> 
> 
> > I would highly recommend this band saw Craftsman Band Saw: Make Every Cut Count with Sears instead of the blade runner thing that you have listed. I just picked this saw up yesterday and for the money I would have to say it is one of the best band saws I have used. And considering it is the same price as the saw that you have listed you get a lot more diversity with a band saw. I would also recommend instead of a live center, get a mandrel saver to use with your pen mandrel, it is almost as good as TBC because all the pressure is placed on the bushings instead of the mandrel it self.  Just my 2cents worth.
> ...


There is one there at that price but a different model number. Ideally the more I think about it the more I'd like to add one that stands on its own to save counter space. Since I don't need one immediately I'm still going to look for a good used one. Estate sales or resale shops come across these regularly.


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## BSea (Apr 15, 2013)

Looking through your shopping list, the only thing I'd have questioned was the tube insertion tool.  I never used mine after the 1st try.  But I wish I could say I only spent on tools by $10.95.

I did find a good use for it though.  I have the beall buffing system (which I love).  I use the tube insertion tool to hold the blanks so they aren't pulled from my hands.  If you ever get one of those systems, you'll understand.  It doesn't work well on 7mm tubes, but for anything larger, it's great.


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## stonepecker (Apr 17, 2013)

PLEASE...... Get a face shield and at least some disposable masks.  Flying wood can make deep dents at high speed.  And some of that dust is toxic to breath.


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## CoastalRyan (Apr 17, 2013)

stonepecker said:


> PLEASE...... Get a face shield and at least some disposable masks.  Flying wood can make deep dents at high speed.  And some of that dust is toxic to breath.


I should have put safety goggles on my list but I already owned a pair. I hadn't put much thought into disposable masks. I thought the level of toxicity had more to do with allergic reaction or how sensitive those are to certain woods.


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## walshjp17 (Apr 17, 2013)

Safety glasses are good for protecting your eyes, but they will not protect your mouth or nose from flying wood.  Do get a face shield with some pretty rigid plexiglass.  You will not be sorry.  Face masks will help keep sanding dust out of your lungs ... it does not need to be toxic to affect your breathing.


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