# Tube Buffing Jig



## Marmotjr (Aug 7, 2016)

Discovered this by pure accident.  I have always appreciated the fact that PSI pen tubes come pre-buffed (sanded).  The other dealers I have dealt with, don't, they're just plain brass tubes.  Better dealers may also have pre-buffed tubes, but not these guys.  

Buffing the tubes is always a pain for me.  Not really painful, but I just find it annoying.  I knew there had to be a way to do this quickly, efficiently, and effectively.  

I had made a series of flapper wheels for my hand drill, to help sand out the inside of holes.  I have a 80 grit, 150, and a 300 bit.  Real easy to make, just cut cross lines in the end of a dowel, glue in the paper, and there ya go.  For this I use the 80 grit wheel.  







I mount the tube on a piece of 1/4" threaded rod, I'd guess dowel will work too, just something for the tube to spin on.  The nut on the end allows the tube to spin freely without my finger stopping it.    Hold the rod between your fingers, like your trying to pinch something that's about 4" long, so the tube can't slide off the ends, but turns freely.      Pull the trigger with the other hand, and hold the tube on the spinning paper, at about a 45 degree angle.  








As the tube spins on the rod, the paper will buff it up nicely.   Work it up and down the length, without removing too much skin.  (I've also found this wheel does wonders for removing CA from fingertips fairly painlessly).  You won't be able to get one end very well, so you flip it over and do it again.   Voila, sanded tube.  

If you make a dedicated axle for this, with stops on each end, you'll probably remove less skin, and have a better finished tube. 

It's probably one of those tricks you guru's have known about for sometime, and this new guy just reinvented the wheel, but hey, it's new to me, it's simple and it works!


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## mecompco (Aug 7, 2016)

An ingenious solution! Personally, I just chuck mine tubes in the lathe and hit them with some 120 grit, quick and skin remains intact. 

Regards,
Michael


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## Edgar (Aug 7, 2016)

Good solution & I made a similar jig back when I sanded my tubes. However, IMHO, it's not neceesary. I haven't buffed or sanded a tube in over 2 years & I see no difference when I use the pre-buffed tubes or a plain un-buffed one. I use med CA glue & try to let it cure overnight before turning, but at least an hour or two if I have to turn the same day.


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## SteveG (Aug 7, 2016)

I have followed all the discussions on the pro's & con's of sanding tubes., and agree that for the most part, tube roughing is an unneeded step. But also, blank failures when turning are most commonly the result of poor glue coverage. I realize these are two different things, with two different causes, and resultant problems. But they are related. My take: give close attention to the tube/blank adhesion issue, especially if the steps to accomplish are minimal. I rough the tubes, and then wipe them well to remove residual dust, and then do a thorough job of getting 100% adhesive contact (using epoxy) between tube and blank. This process may add 20 to 30 seconds to the process of making one pen...WORTH IT!!

With all that said, I like the jig shown here, because it will work, and fairly quickly. I get the "Roughing" done in a slightly quicker process. There is a small strip of 1" X 5", 80 grit cloth backed abrasive hanging on a a nail by the lathe. I gather as many tubes as is practical, perhaps enough for six pens or so, turn on the lathe at very low speed, with centers mounted. Then go through sanding all the tubes by slipping one at a time between the centers (just leave the lathe running), slide the TS up to grip the tube (no need to lock the TS), sand for about 5 seconds, wipe with small section of towel, slide TS back, replace  with next tube, etc. Repeat until all tubes are sanded. Total time expended is about 10 seconds per tube.

Since I usually have multiple pens in process, I have already marked the tube to ID the kit, and just enough of that marking remains after sanding to still provide ID. If I know the tube is going with a translucent blank, I will sand the ID completely off, to avoid unsightly writing showing through the finished blank.  

Many will argue the lack of necessity to sand tubes, but due to the very low "cost" of doing it, vs. the prospect of even one failure, I go ahead and spend the 30 seconds required. Just as Thad, I deem it a worthy step!


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