# Antler newbie, some tips needed



## DaveO (Dec 11, 2006)

I was just given this rack and several others by a friend. I have no idea how to go about turning it into pen blanks. Where am I going to find the best "stock", is there "pith" to avoid, should I chose sections that are close to the final size of the pen barrel or go much larger for error room???? I would appreciate any advice, tips, tricks, warnings, tutorials etc. that could help me make a successful pen. TIA 
Now for a picture of my rack 






Dave


----------



## bonsaibill (Dec 11, 2006)

That should make some nice pens!  If you want some of the "bark" left on the finished pen then you should try to find pieces that are just a little larger than the finished barrel size.  Drilling can sometimes be a challenge on the parts that aren't straight.  
If you cut pieces that are much bigger you will get into a different type of material (marrow, pith).  This stuff can still make a nice pen if you use some CA on it.  This part also seems to take dye or markers quite nicely.
The only down side I have found for antler is the smell!  It will really stink up the place (smells like hair burning to me).


----------



## TAld (Dec 11, 2006)

Dave, you are so right, there are so may pith's to avoid you may not want to tackle a project such as this at this time; therefore, I suggest you send it to me (overnight FedEx or UPS) please pay shipping charges - I will see what I can do with it. If all goes well I will post a picture for ya[][][].
I can't help ya with this one but many here will be able.
Please post picture's when done.
Tom


----------



## TellicoTurning (Dec 11, 2006)

Dave,
Horn is one of my favorite mediums... just make sure you have a relatively straight piece.. make sure your tools are sharp, wear a mask and have fun.

If the diameter of the horn is quite a bit larger than the pen you are planning,you could have some marrow to contend with... just lost of CA, sharp tools and a mask..
Without a reference for size, I think I see about 6 to 8 possible pen sections in there.. 3-4 pens..  I sometimes leave the bark, which will leave you with an odd shape to the pen, but you'll find buyers that will like that.  Good Luck.. I just got about 20 or 30 pieces of horn on my last trip to Texas.. haven't started on anything yet though.. 

This is a fountain pen I have that I left the bark on..




<br />


----------



## DaveO (Dec 11, 2006)

> _Originally posted by ozmandus_
> <br />
> 
> If the diameter of the horn is quite a bit larger than the pen you are planning,you could have some marrow to contend with... just lost of CA, sharp tools and a mask..
> Without a reference for size,....



The thickest end is about 1Â½" in dia, and that carries up to where it branches off the the rest of the prongs. Over all it's about 16-18" long not counting the prongs.
I'm afraid that the thickest end..with all the "bark", and the straightest section, will be turned all away leaving me with a very ordinary pen.
Dave[]


----------



## PopPop (Dec 12, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DaveO_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



Dave,  I make a lot of antler pens and have developed a few tricks that have helped me.

I use a piece of 1/8" Lexan approximately 2"X3" with scribed lines across it's width to match the O.D. of the pen tube you are making ie 7mm, 8mm, & 10mm are the most common tubes I use.  I also scribed a Center Line and a Tube Length for each tube.  When laying out your pen blanks, hold the Lexan on your antler and you can determine where to cut your antler to be able to drill the hole for the tube all the way through without blowing out the side.  Be sure to check the antler from several positions around that section of antler to account for the curvature of the tines.  You should use the sides of the Lexan to draw cut lines across the antler with a pencil, and cut the pieces out on those lines.  After you cut the antler blank out, use the Lexan again to determine where the center of the drill should be.

PM me if you like & I'll give you some more tips on making antler pens.  Good luck with it.  Chuck  [8D]


----------



## ctEaglesc (Dec 12, 2006)

When I first started turning antler I used to feel like a diamond cutter trying to find the "line" in the antler that would at least get the drill bit through without a blow out.
Now it is no big deal unless the antler I am going to drill is close in diameter to the finished  diameter of the barrel.Now it's no big deal.
I used to sand it square but it takes too long, clogs up the belt and raises a lot of dust.

I use one of two methods depending on my mood and the antler.
METHOD 1
If you are going to drill on a Drill press you need to "reference" a right angle down one side parallel to the travel of the bit.
The fastest and most accurate way to do that is to cut the antler to a rough length of the tube .Until you get used to doing this keep it a little long.
Make sure both ends a parallel.
roll the antler on a flat surface and determine where it wants to stop,there is always a flat side.

I use a Bessy cabinet clamp and clamp the antler between the jaws  keeping one side proud of the jaws.The Bessy clamp will stay flat against the fence of my table saw sled.(You can use a bandssaw sled also but the cut of the table saw is quicker and cleaner leaving me nice flat pieces I can use for accents).
Rip one long side. Unclamp  the antler rotate it until the flat is down on the sled, clamp and cut again.
This will leave you a 90 angle to put in your pen vice.There is no need to square the other sides.Center a bushing on one end mark the circumference find the "eyeball" the center of that circle.There is your drill center.You may find it easier to drill from the smallest bushing hole fist depending on the taper of the antler.
After you have glued your tube in you can ease the corners before turning if you wish.
METHOD 2.
Cut to length as in the first method keeping the ends parallel.Chuck it between centers and turn it round.If you can turn a uniform cylinder you can drill this on the DP.
I like to drill on the lathe.If you have a Collet or scroll chuck this is the most accurate way to do it.
Also  certain pieces will yield you bark on the finished pieces.These are ones that are curved.
When you chuck it between centerers you will get a "strobe effect" showing you the center line through the piece.Eventually you will determine how to place the antler between center to give you the best chance of getting the bark appearance.
When turning between centers I use a "knock-off" Steb type center.
I pay no attention to the amount of pith that is in the antler CA and sanding dust takes care of that.
I have found there is no one way to finish antler, each piece is different,That is what is so nice about working with it.
The smell of antler doesn't bother me.I use a dust collector and never smell it.
Any questions, you have my number


----------



## kent4Him (Dec 12, 2006)

I subscribe to Eagle's 2nd method.  The added benefit is that point from the revolving center will tell you exactly where to drill down the center of the blank.

I don't know about the rest of you, but I use my skew as a scraper to finish my antler pens.  It may not be the correct way, but it works for me.


----------



## angboy (Dec 12, 2006)

Oooo... nice rack![][] (Actually I have no idea if it's nice or not, I just wanted to be able to say that to a man![}])


----------



## Rifleman1776 (Dec 12, 2006)

Lot of good advice here. I can't add much. But, I'll pick a nit. Antler is not horn. Antler is bone. And for those who question that (I did until recently), last week I spoke with two different game biologists and asked if antler was bone. They both responded "yes".
Do expect there may be a failure, it is part of the learning curve. Be sure to post pictures of your first pen. Good luck.


----------



## sandking (Dec 12, 2006)

I have ruined two pieces of antler b/c i can't figure out how to turn it.  The fist one was from my dad.  Looked exactly like that one.  The second antler I spent $12 on from CSUSA.  I can't see how people can get so many pens out of a piece of antler without it being a huge thick rack.  All I see are a few key chains.

Can some take that picture and maybe photoshop where you would cut for each tube?


----------



## gerryr (Dec 12, 2006)

There is nothing that says you have to drill it through the center.  I just finished a pen for a customer who wanted lots of "character" in his antler cigar.  I had a nice piece of Whitetail antler and using my brand new Paul Huffman vice, purposely drilled it way off center to leave plenty of bark on one side.  I sent him pictures and he was thrilled with it.

With antler, I have found that the only tool that really works for me is a heavy round nose scraper.


----------



## jtate (Dec 12, 2006)

TIP:  Use sanding sealer.  Whether it's CA or something else.  Use sanding sealer.


----------



## guts (Dec 12, 2006)

i drill all of my antlers with a cordless drill and most of them are off center,as long as i have enough bone left on the outside of the hole to cover the bushings i can turn them,i use nothing but a round nose scraper from start to finish.


----------



## Mark4583 (Dec 12, 2006)

Ive done some where I didnt seal the pore's from the pith all the way up and turned out pretty nice.

   Ive never purchased any antler from CSU, any good?


----------



## PopPop (Dec 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by sandking_
> <br />I have ruined two pieces of antler b/c i can't figure out how to turn it.  The fist one was from my dad.  Looked exactly like that one.  The second antler I spent $12 on from CSUSA.  I can't see how people can get so many pens out of a piece of antler without it being a huge thick rack.  All I see are a few key chains.
> 
> Can some take that picture and maybe photoshop where you would cut for each tube?



Sandking,  Earlier this year I wrote a Antler Tutorial for another forum on how I work with antler and posted it on my webpage.  If anyone is interested it is posted at http://sarkon.net/poppopshop/. Click on Antler Tutorial.  Hope you find it helpful.[]
Chuck [8D]


----------



## DaveO (Dec 13, 2006)

Thanks Poppop, that was an excellent tutorial. I like your drilling jig, I'll have to set up something like that. Thanks again.
Dave[]


----------



## Rifleman1776 (Dec 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DaveO_
> <br />Thanks Poppop, that was an excellent tutorial. I like your drilling jig, I'll have to set up something like that. Thanks again.
> Dave[]



He sent it to me also, I ditto the "excellent" part.


----------



## sandking (Dec 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by PopPop_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Maskman (Feb 28, 2007)

What's the best way to finish an antler when you leave bark on one side.  Seems to me it would be hard to get a good polish using CA.

Dan


----------



## randyrathbun (Feb 28, 2007)

I made an antler slimline a few months ago that came out really well. The only thing I had trouble with was the smell. My gawd is it awful! It was almost nauseating. So, if you don't like the smell of burning animal parts, wait until the weather is better so you can get plenty of ventilation. I ended up opening the garage on a 30 degree day just to air the place out before I could continue. 

That said, the hardest part, besides the smell, is finding a chunk that is straight and big for that part of the pen. The bigger the better, I think. I had to do slimline on the one I turned, and I was only able to get one pen out of it as it was a rather small rack. I have a few more at home that are much bigger, so should be able to get a few more pens out of the stuff. 

By the way, is this stuff really this hard to come by? A friend of mine keeps brining me the things and I am starting to get a little tired of it! (okay, not really, but....)


----------



## Rmartin (Feb 28, 2007)

I've only turned a few anter pens, so I can't add much, but just wanted to say thanks for all the valuable info, so um, thanks!

Rmartin


----------



## kevin_f (Feb 28, 2007)

Dave, I have made antler pens with the "bark" showing, closer to the ends were it is mostly white, and others with the pith of the antler were there is alot of marrow.  Each pen looked great and each appeals to different people.  I have a brother-in-law that just loves the darker marrow antler pens, but you do need to use CA on it while turning.  Bottom line, use the whole thing!  

One suggestion I did not see yet in this thread.  It is very important to wear a dust mask when turning antler or bone.  Sometimes, but not very often, I get lazy and turn a wood pen without dust mask, but ALWAYS wear dust mask for antler!


----------



## TellicoTurning (Feb 28, 2007)

Randy,
Suspect your antler might have been a little green, fresh, if it smelled so badly, or I have just gotten used to the smell.. this is my latest score of antler... picked up last Thanksgiving on my trip home.. I showed this in a gloat earlier... I haven't cut the first piece yet.. need to get started soon.


<br />

I don't use much to finish the horn... if you have marrow, you need to stabilize that with CA, but if you have solid antler, you can just sand through as high a grit as you can and leave it natural.. most of my customers seem to like them that way... that way, your bark will still have some polish, but not have an artificial look to it.


----------



## Tea Clipper (Mar 1, 2007)

I'm interested in trying my hand at this too, so I was looking at buying the antler through Moscow Hide and Fur.  Should I be looking at Tine pieces or Tips?  I understand that there are two regions to antler: a hard outer shell and a softer inner pith.  What I don't know is whether the pith is desirable or not, or is it a personal choice?


----------



## thewishman (Mar 1, 2007)

> _Originally posted by ozmandus_
> <br />Randy,
> Suspect your antler might have been a little green, fresh, if it smelled so badly, or I have just gotten used to the smell.. this is my latest score of antler... picked up last Thanksgiving on my trip home.. I showed this in a gloat earlier... I haven't cut the first piece yet.. need to get started soon.
> 
> ...



Hey, Chuck, three questions:
1. What is your <u>exact</u> address?
2. What hours are you away from home?
3. Where is the spare key to your workshop hidden?

Just curious [}][]

Chris


----------



## Rifleman1776 (Mar 1, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Tea Clipper_
> <br />I'm interested in trying my hand at this too, so I was looking at buying the antler through Moscow Hide and Fur.  Should I be looking at Tine pieces or Tips?  I understand that there are two regions to antler: a hard outer shell and a softer inner pith.  What I don't know is whether the pith is desirable or not, or is it a personal choice?



The inner is marrow, not pith. Whether you want it or not is a matter of personal choice. Finding a tine that is the right size to turn and not get any marrow showing can be tricky.
Buying from a commercial source is very expensive. Check flea markets, antique shops, etc. and try to buy racks that way. The prices keep going up but will still be cheaper than buying commercially.


----------



## workinforwood (Mar 1, 2007)

This topic is good reading...I have an antler similar to this one, a small 7 pointer.  Nobody mentioned the drill bit...is a brad point ok, or would that be bad?
Can it, or is it sanded with sandpaper?
I need that tutorial for future use...you the man pop!


----------



## TellicoTurning (Mar 1, 2007)

Ron,
I've published this address before, but if you are in the market for antler, call my friend Terry Jones in Texas... I get most of my antler from him and prices are more reasonable than some commercial sites... the haul above cost me 5 pens and a duck call.
He is at the Trade Mart Antiques, Jewett, Texas  903-626 8707
email: trademart11999@sbcglobal.net  or terry@tmjcreativesculptures.com


----------



## Tea Clipper (Mar 1, 2007)

Thanks for the contact info Chuck.  I just recently decided I wanted to try antler so I placed a small order with Moscow H&F.  If this turns out to be a something I'd like to do more of, I'll give your friend Terry a call, because man, that is a sweet deal! [][]


----------



## Rifleman1776 (Mar 2, 2007)

> _Originally posted by workinforwood_
> <br />This topic is good reading...I have an antler similar to this one, a small 7 pointer.  Nobody mentioned the drill bit...is a brad point ok, or would that be bad?
> Can it, or is it sanded with sandpaper?
> I need that tutorial for future use...you the man pop!



Work it just like wood. I use brad points. Depending on the piece of antler, sanding can be normal or problematic. I just finished one where I used Klingspore gold then Micro Mesh then after a couple coats of CA used synthetic pads meant for acrylics, then more CA and back to MM. Still came out with less shine than I wanted.


----------

