# What Mini / small table saw are you using ?



## 1shootist (Aug 18, 2019)

I am in the market for a affordable mini table saw . I've researched them for the last few days and there looks to be everything from a ebay $65 hobby saw up to a $500+ Byrnes Model Maker ... If I could have what I wanted I'd buy a Byrnes. Though what I can actually afford is something between the two.
 If there are any mini table saw users here would you share your thoughts on what you have and if it gets the job done for you. 
 There are so many listings for mini type saws , most cheaper ones look totally worthless but surely some would get it done properly.
 I had thought about a MicroMark mini tablesaw...they have 2 sizes..a roughly 9" &  a 12"..though after looking into reviews ..both are greatly underpowered for hard pen blanks.

Thanks all !


----------



## socdad (Aug 18, 2019)

Proxxon 37070 FET  (I picked it up on the IPA Marketplace)


----------



## 1shootist (Aug 18, 2019)

socdad said:


> Proxxon 37070 FET  (I picked it up on the IPA Marketplace)


That was definitely one I very much liked. I wish I could come across a used one as you did....$340 is a bit steep for me


----------



## dogcatcher (Aug 18, 2019)

I used an antique 8" Craftsman table saw that was made in the 39s or 40's.  Homemade sled.  I am in Abilene, but I found it in Arlington on Craigslist.  At one time I also used a 10" 1970's Craftsman table saw with a sled.   The 8"  was good for pen and bottle stopper size, for bowls and larger stuff the blade was a limit in cutting the big stuff.

My favorite segmenting saw was a Makita 2708 with a homemade sled.  Unfortunately it was not mine, but he let me use it when I wanted to.


----------



## DrD (Aug 18, 2019)

If you were closer, I would make you a deal on a high precision cabinet saw which works beautifully with thin kerf 10" or 7 1/2" blades.  Comes with precision Woodpeckers Cross Cut Sled; FLAT granite work top, 1 3/4 hp, 110v, can be changed to 240v, left tilt.  Put a nickel on edge, anywhere on the granite table, fire it up , make a cut, the nickel doesn't even wobble - .  Run0ut on the blade is non-existant.   Great saw.  I no longer use it; converted my shop to track saw & SCMS.


----------



## TonyL (Aug 18, 2019)

With all of these smaller/mini/micro saws, you may want to me mindful of maximum depth of cut and HP. Enjoy!


----------



## jttheclockman (Aug 18, 2019)

What do you plan to do with it, build models with Balsa wood?? If so any will work. Is it that you do not have room for a full size saw or are you afraid of them?? Would a job site saw work for your needs?? Can you do what you want with a bandsaw or handsaw and miter box. ???  Mini saws are cute and that is all they are. Unless you do model building they can be useful. That was what they were built for.


----------



## mark james (Aug 18, 2019)

I have a Byrnes, so I am admittedly biased.

This has a review of several for you to compare the specs:  *Model Maker Table Saw Review.*


----------



## showcaser (Aug 18, 2019)

Microlux but looking at that Byrnes with the sliding table. Full time RVer so weight is a consideration.


----------



## mark james (Aug 18, 2019)

showcaser said:


> Microlux but looking at that Byrnes with the sliding table. Full time RVer so weight is a consideration.



I am a huge fan of the Byrnes.  But... I did buy the sliding table and seldom use it.  You can with minimal effort make jigs for the uses of the sliding table.  It (the sled) is of excellent quality, but I would not buy it again.  And I say this as I use the saw for almost every segmenting blank/design I make.  I have cut through 3/4" Oak pen blanks - slowly, but if you are not in a hurry and know how to use the machine, all is well.  I'd without doubt buy the Brynes again - but I do realize the cost factor.


----------



## leehljp (Aug 18, 2019)

Another question for you is: How good at creating and making your own with precision sled and even table saw? I turned a circular saw upside down under a home made table and added a sliding table to it, along with adjustments for tight fit but smooth action. I did this when I lived overseas and purchased numerous 120mm blades with kerfs of .9mm, 1.0, 1.1, and 1.2 mm. I have lost a micro adjuster that can adjust rips by 1/128 or better, but it is somewhere in my shop. Haven't used it in a while.


----------



## jttheclockman (Aug 18, 2019)

leehljp said:


> Another question for you is: How good at creating and making your own with precision sled and even table saw? I turned a circular saw upside down under a home made table and added a sliding table to it, along with adjustments for tight fit but smooth action. I did this when I lived overseas and purchased numerous 120mm blades with kerfs of .9mm, 1.0, 1.1, and 1.2 mm. I have lost a micro adjuster that can adjust rips by 1/128 or better, but it is somewhere in my shop. Haven't used it in a while.



I use to see this alot on job sites.


----------



## leehljp (Aug 18, 2019)

jttheclockman said:


> I use to see this alot on job sites.


.9mm and 1mm kerf 120mm bladed saws on job sites? What did they use them for on job sites?


----------



## 1shootist (Aug 18, 2019)

leehljp said:


> Another question for you is: How good at creating and making your own with precision sled and even table saw? I turned a circular saw upside down under a home made table and added a sliding table to it, along with adjustments for tight fit but smooth action. I did this when I lived overseas and purchased numerous 120mm blades with kerfs of .9mm, 1.0, 1.1, and 1.2 mm. I have lost a micro adjuster that can adjust rips by 1/128 or better, but it is somewhere in my shop. Haven't used it in a while.


I appreciate recommending the ideas,
 I do have a full size table saw..though I am apprehensive using it with small, pen size material due to a physical concern..I have only my left arm..holding anything, even with a foot long kick stick close to the saw blade gives me a severe case of willies. Plywood, sectioning a 2x6, not an issue...pen blank size wood, big willie issues.
 And its a saw with no miter slots..though even if it had a slot or two so a sled could be utilized I'm not sure how I would feel about doing so...,for small pieces.

I've been researching for the past several days..the Byrnes is pretty much the one that checks most of the boxes. Others have some good qualities though lack a major box or two, such as the cutting height is poor, hp poor , no miter slots, blade options due to size etc....I've decided..unless something else at a good price surfaces, I'm going to save a few dollars here and there and buy a Byrnes setup.


----------



## jttheclockman (Aug 18, 2019)

Just remember a spinning blade is a spinning blade. You can get kickback on any saw. You can have digits cut off with any saw. Smaller does not make safer.


----------



## jttheclockman (Aug 18, 2019)

leehljp said:


> .9mm and 1mm kerf 120mm bladed saws on job sites? What did they use them for on job sites?



I was talking about turning a skil saw upside down and anchoring into a sheet of plywood


----------



## 1shootist (Aug 18, 2019)

jttheclockman said:


> Just remember a spinning blade is a spinning blade. You can get kickback on any saw. You can have digits cut off with any saw. Smaller does not make safer.


Seriously !


----------



## DrD (Aug 19, 2019)

The safety issues are why I now primarily use a track saw.  With my set up I can accurately and reproducibly cut material 1/16" thick, cut pen blanks, breakdown sheet goods.  Not quite as safe as a SawStop, but a whole lot more accurate, at a lower cost,

1shootist I do understand the "willies." So far after 2 accidents with cabinet saw the orthopods were able to get everything reattached and working - not so with toes on right foot after a fight with a running lawn mower.

SawStop/Festool makes a dandy job-site saw, but it is up there in price, ~$1000 or perhaps even more now.


----------



## Bryguy (Aug 19, 2019)

I love my Byrnes!


----------



## gtriever (Aug 19, 2019)

I have the Micro Mark tilting arbor saw. I looked long and hard at the Byrnes, but the tilting table looked like an accident waiting to happen.


----------



## Mikeyt (Aug 19, 2019)

I have the Byrnes table saw. As many people have said it is worth every penny. It is accurate and works great for pen blanks as other cuts. I also have a full size table saw. I will use my Byrnes saw over the full size for anything that will fit on it. Very powerful and great. If you have to sacrifice for it you will be glad you did for this saw. 


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## mark james (Aug 19, 2019)

Mikeyt said:


> I have the Byrnes table saw. As many people have said it is worth every penny. It is accurate and works great for pen blanks as other cuts. I also have a full size table saw. *I will use my Byrnes saw over the full size for anything that will fit on it.* Very powerful and great. If you have to sacrifice for it you will be glad you did for this saw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app



I could not agree more.  And I do not have the tilting table.


----------



## corgicoupe (Aug 19, 2019)

Why not consider a small handsaw, either traditional dovetail or Japanese saw. No noise and quite safe.


----------



## idance1 (Jan 2, 2021)

DrD said:


> If you were closer, I would make you a deal on a high precision cabinet saw which works beautifully with thin kerf 10" or 7 1/2" blades.  Comes with precision Woodpeckers Cross Cut Sled; FLAT granite work top, 1 3/4 hp, 110v, can be changed to 240v, left tilt.  Put a nickel on edge, anywhere on the granite table, fire it up , make a cut, the nickel doesn't even wobble - .  Run0ut on the blade is non-existant.   Great saw.  I no longer use it; converted my shop to track saw & SCMS.


what saw was this ?


----------

