# Help me!



## Dan Masshardt (Feb 20, 2014)

I'm ashamed of myself.  :-(

I got a little too impatient and the adhesive on this disk was a little better than most.

Any advice?


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## lyonsacc (Feb 20, 2014)

maybe use acetone or some other solvent


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## Jim Burr (Feb 20, 2014)

Utility knife....unplugged first!!!!!


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## glenspens (Feb 20, 2014)

remove the guard use a putty knife to remove most then use some type of solvent to clean up the rest of the mess  good luck any how that how i clean mine....


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## Indiana_Parrothead (Feb 20, 2014)

Use a razer blade scraper like this
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Then DNA or acetone.

Mike


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## Marko50 (Feb 20, 2014)

use a power palm sander with 50-80 grit on it. Takes it right off, no mess, no muss, just dust.


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## Curly (Feb 20, 2014)

I use solvent like Varsol, mineral spirits, etc., and then acetone to degrease before putting the new one on.


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## Sylvanite (Feb 20, 2014)

In the shop, I'd probably reach for the acetone, although a citrus solvent (like Goo Gone) would probably be better.  Heat would soften the adhesive too.

I hope that helps,
Eric


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## plano_harry (Feb 20, 2014)

Hair dryer to soften adhesive as you go and single edge razor blade, or putty knife.


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## brownsfn2 (Feb 20, 2014)

LOL.  Glad to see I am not the only one who gets impatient with things like that.  

Acetone helps.


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## mredburn (Feb 20, 2014)

A Skew?:biggrin:


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## PenMan1 (Feb 20, 2014)

Aerosol Brake Parts Cleaner. Available on the cheap at Wally World or any auto parts store.

DAMHIKT


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## kovalcik (Feb 20, 2014)

Notice how so many jumped in with answers?  Makes me think you are not the first to do this.  Of course I have never had it happen, but I hear a putty knife and mineral spirits work well.


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## gimpy (Feb 20, 2014)

Throw it out and get a new one,
put it out by the garage, I'll be 
down that way over the weekend :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## tumbleweed676 (Feb 20, 2014)

Putty knife and Goof Off


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## mmyshrall (Feb 20, 2014)

Dan,

Since I have never done this, of course, I think you will find the application of heat with a hair dryer or heat gun will greatly speed the removal of those nasty remnants.

But, bear in mind that this is all very hypothetical for me as I always am patient in the shop and spend all the time required to remove the disk.  

BTW, can I interest you in a bridge purchase in the lovely Inland Northwest??

Michael


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## dogcatcher (Feb 20, 2014)

Acetone.


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## MarkD (Feb 20, 2014)

60 grit :biggrin:


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## Janster (Feb 20, 2014)

Large Bowl Gouge?


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## mark james (Feb 20, 2014)

A Tall shot of Dickel's Tennessee Whiskey (Put on the shelf for LATER!!!); then any of the great suggestions above.  :biggrin:  Dickel's will be waiting!


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## Dan Masshardt (Feb 20, 2014)

mredburn said:


> A Skew?:biggrin:



How am I gonna get my tool rest on there?  

Maybe rick makes a disc sander tool rest adapter?


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## Ambidex (Feb 20, 2014)

Well if you decide to use a skew or preferably a very dull gouge...please repost so we can see the pretty kaleidoscope patterns?


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## robutacion (Feb 20, 2014)

Well, I will put scrapping all that off with and carbide tipped tool and re-shave any vibrations, imperfections of the disk surface, the table/tool rest is already there so with the sander on, and working on the left half of the disk plate, I would have the perfect surface (if you know what you are doing) to buy a Velcro self adhesive backing pad of the disk size and stop having this problem every time you need to replace the sanding disc...!:wink::biggrin:

Cheers
George


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## wouldentu2? (Feb 20, 2014)

Don't press so hard when sanding!!!!!


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## dexter0606 (Feb 20, 2014)

For gods sake don't use a tool while the thing is spinning. Heat gun (hair dryer). You'll be able to scrape most of it off. May take a little bit. You can clean up with acetone after


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## jimjam66 (Feb 21, 2014)

Dan, I'm with George.  I bought 'hook-and-loop' tape with adhesive backing at a local haberdashery (not sure if that's a term familiar to Americans?  It's a shop where fabric, cotton thread, buttons etc are sold) and stuck the 'hook' side to the face of my sanding disc.  Now I just buy 'hook-and-loop' sanding discs (they have the 'loop' material as a backing).  No more mess!


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## shastastan (Mar 3, 2014)

jimjam66 said:


> Dan, I'm with George.  I bought 'hook-and-loop' tape with adhesive backing at a local haberdashery (not sure if that's a term familiar to Americans?  It's a shop where fabric, cotton thread, buttons etc are sold) and stuck the 'hook' side to the face of my sanding disc.  Now I just buy 'hook-and-loop' sanding discs (they have the 'loop' material as a backing).  No more mess!



This is an excellent idea.  Thanks!


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## tbroye (Mar 3, 2014)

I have a 5" putty knife (kind used for dry wall mud) that I sharpened just for this situation, then clean the stickum off with Acetone


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## mikespenturningz (Mar 4, 2014)

How about some googone? You really have to be more careful Dan when you are sanding your custom finials ;>)


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## Dan Masshardt (Mar 4, 2014)

Hey all.  


Thanks for the advice.  

It had lots of crap built up from previous discs as well as the current one.  

Grabbed a putty knife vas break cleaner as Andy suggested.  Worked well.  

I decided to get nice and shiny.   Some 80 sandpaper became involved as well.  

Got it nice !


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## mmyshrall (Mar 4, 2014)

Glad to hear you got it resolved, Dan.  

Is it just me or does a nice shiny looking tool seem to beg to get all dirty and dusty again???

Michael


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## Dan Masshardt (Mar 4, 2014)

mmyshrall said:


> Glad to hear you got it resolved, Dan.  Is it just me or does a nice shiny looking tool seem to beg to get all dirty and dusty again???  Michael



Well the shine got covered with a disc quick so it's hidden.


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