# wood, inserts, and water



## watch_art (May 31, 2012)

Okay - first:

Making a wooden pen with plastic inserts is a stinkin pain in the butt.

Second:

Is there any reason I should NOT use water while drilling wood just as I would do with plastic blanks?

Here's what I've done (and started over a couple times!)  

I tried a CA finish - what a joke that was.  
Just sanded it all off back down to the wood and went with my Maguiers car polish like I do with my plastic pens.  May not be the best thing - but it turns out okay.  Feels really nice to the touch.  Sailor and Faber Castel don't put clear coats on their wood pens.  :biggrin:  
After I sanded it down I noticed my threads were pretty much ruined.  They still work fine, but they LOOK awful.    So this one will probably go to a student who doesn't care about that kind of stuff.




2 barrel by snennewton, on Flickr




002 by snennewton, on Flickr




001 by snennewton, on Flickr

So here's my do-over.
I took better care to get a precise fit of the insert.  I don't want anything off center.  This stuff cuts better with my big U gouge than with the wood chuck.  This wood just sort of sticks to the carbide tip and gums it up - makes it dull quick.




003 by snennewton, on Flickr

Hopefully things will go better this time.


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## InvisibleMan (May 31, 2012)

Don't know, but I've never lubricated wood for drilling.  It goes faster, and isn't going to expand/melt like plastics.  I just clear the chips frequently.

I've got plans drawn up for a wood/PR pen, so I hope it isn't too painful!


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## The Penguin (May 31, 2012)

I've seen Corian used as an insert for threaded lids on small boxes...why not pens?


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## watch_art (May 31, 2012)

I'm just using acrylic for the inserts...


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## Dustygoose (May 31, 2012)

I wouldn't use water because the wood will want to "suck up" the water. Then when it re-dries it will be prone to crack.


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## TerryDowning (Jun 1, 2012)

Water and wood are not a good mix during machining. Joseph is correct but YMMV depending on species of wood and how long the wood is exposed to the water. When you use water during drilling you are getting the inside of the wood wet and forcing it into the fibers. If you do use the water please allow drying time before continuing to work the wood as you are introducing instability to the material. If you really feel you need some kind of cooling/lubricant when drilling wood use Mineral Spirits or DNA as these will flash off faster and not destabilize the wood as badly but you still need to allow drying time.

Make sure drill bits used in wood are sharp. Not necessarily new but sharp as most of us know, new rarely means sharp or at least properly sharpened.

Take short bites with the bit and clear swarf often. It's a slightly different technique between wood and plastics but they are very similar.

After drilling wood EVEN using a collet chuck you may need to go back and square up the ends. Drill bits do flex and they can/will follow a grain pattern. After drilling put the blank between centers or mount on your closed end mandrel to make make the blank concentric to the drilled hole and square the ends.  Then go back to the collet chuck and work the insert.

Acrylics and other resins are fine for pen inserts you should not have any problems here.

As for finishes, you are absolutely correct, a clear coat is not required.  But you should seal the wood pores with something like wax or cut lacquer(sanding sealer). My first pen, (still in use around the house is Mahogany on a slimline with a paste wax finish). Natural wood won't polish up as glossy or shiny as the resins/acrylics but many people prefer the feel of natural wood to the plastic feel of a CA finish. The natural wood may require periodic treatments of cleaning, waxing, and polishing to keep it looking top notch but that is cosmetic only. If your McGuire's polish is the same as mine (McGuire' Gold) it has carnuba wax in it so it should work OK as a final finish. I do recommend some sanding sealer to close up the pores of the wood first though. Sanding sealer will also keep hand oils from infiltrating the wood as easily. Coat with sanding sealer ans allow to dry per instruction on the can, then finish off with the car polish.  Buff on a buffing wheel with no compound.

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## Justturnin (Jun 1, 2012)

I am not a student but when I was I didn't care.....Does that count?:biggrin:

Like already said, a hard finish is not necessary but most do it because a buyer will likely not know how or care to reapply wax every once in a while to protect the pen.....


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## watch_art (Jun 1, 2012)

Thanks everybody - point most certainly taken.  With as much time as this mess is taking I'd rather not have it split or ruin b/c of moisture.

Here's my second attempt.  Going much better so far.

This stuff reminds me of Purple Web celluloid - when the light hits it just right the grain sort of glitters.  Very pretty.





003 by snennewton, on Flickr





002 by snennewton, on Flickr




003 by snennewton, on Flickr





004 by snennewton, on Flickr




005 by snennewton, on Flickr




006 by snennewton, on Flickr




007 by snennewton, on Flickr




008 by snennewton, on Flickr




009 by snennewton, on Flickr


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## watch_art (Jun 1, 2012)

oh yeah - and this is the wood 

Buy Blackwood African Pen Blank 3 4 x 3 4 x 5 5-piece at Woodcraft


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## soligen (Jun 3, 2012)

Looks like you are getting it figured out.  I use plastic (alumilite) inserts for kiltless wood & segmented pens, and it works just fine for me.

Drill the blank dry. Glue in the plastic insert, then trill/tap the plastic insert to make the pen.  I use alcohol as a lube here, but I also put a couple quick coats of CA on the outside of the blank which gives it plenty pf protection - alcohol evaporates pretty quick.

Here is a tip:  Before gluing in the insert (I use epoxy - liberally), drill a small hole all the way through it to relieve the air pressure as you push it in.  I have had air pressure crack the blank.


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