# For those new to turning pens.



## Justturnin

I have been turning pens now for about 9-10 months.  Over that time I have learned/been taught some things that I would like to share.

 Cutting blanks.
 When you are going to cut your blank, be sure to mark you cut on it so when you turn it you align it back as it was for proper grain matching.  I just use a slash across both halves that I can realign later.

 Drilling.
 When drilling if you are using a Pen blank vice place the cut side up and note where your mark is for lining up the grain.  Once you drill the first blank insert the other one in (assuming a 2 part pen) also w/ the cut side up and your alignment mark in the same spot as the first piece.  This will aid in the grain matching as well to make sure the bit is entering into the same location on the blank.

 Gluing prep.
 Many sand their tube.  I did, but now I don’t.  All I do is give the tube a quick wipe w/ Acetone and don’t touch them again to make sure you do not reintroduce oils from your skin onto the tube.  These oils could cause and issue w/ the glue properly bonding to the blank.
 If using Epoxy get some Play-doe, Dental Wax or Plumbers putty to seal the tube and prevent it from getting into your brass.
 If you are going to be turning acrylic/resin blanks now is the time to reverse paint the blank holes and the tube.  I use spray paint for both but there are many paints you can use.  Give the paint about 24 hours to dry.  Some folks place them in a toaster oven at a low temp to speed it up. It’s all up to you.

 Gluing.
 Spread out some scrap paper, Foil or Wax Paper to glue on.
 Before applying the glue give it a dry run and make sure it is going to go in no problem.  I have had tubes stop dead ½ way in and need to be redrilled.  Don’t know why and never gave it much thought.
 When gluing, insert from the cut side again and try to get the tube as close to your marked end as possible.  Again, this will help with your grain matching when you assemble the pen.
 I prefer Epoxy.  I cut old cardboard boxes into 3x3 squares to mix my epoxy on.  I use a Bamboo Skewer to mix and apply to the tubes and the inside of the blank, what you don’t have any skewers?  Stop, go to the store and get Skewers, Wax Paper, Foil and if your filling rich a large cutting board to do you gluing on.  If you use epoxy mix just a small amount and if it is getting thick on the paper that you mixed it on don’t use it.  It is already setting up and you will not get a good bond.  I use 5min but you can use 10min or 30min for longer working time. 
 If you are going to do CA you better be ready.  I recommend Thick as it will do a better job at filling the void in between the tube and blank as well as give you a little more working time, not a lot but a little.
 
Applying the Glue.
 Again, I use a skewer and Epoxy.  I scrape some epoxy into the hole on one end of the blank and sit the blank up to allow that epoxy to run down while I apply some epoxy to the end of the tube.  I insert the tube on the cut side and slowly rotate the blank.  I rotate the blank because there will be a drip that will form on the bottom of the tube if you rotate the tube, but if you rotate the blank that drip will run back onto the tube thus into the hole w/ it.  So I rotate the Blank and insert the tube, pull the tube out and make sure you have good coverage and slide it back in.  I take the skewer and scrape off any excess glue.  If you don’t have excess glue you didn’t use enough.  There is nothing worse than a pen spinning its brass so you can save $.01 on glue.
 You can do the same thing w/ CA but I don’t recommend pulling the tube out to check coverage, you may not get it back in.
 I glue in batches so I allow the glue to cure for a few hours before moving on.
 
Squaring the blank.
 There are some great jigs out there for this.  I still use a mill.  Make sure its sharp and go slow. 

 Turning.
 I am almost 100% sure that I am guessing when I say that 99.9% of all pen turners start on a mandrel.  So I will go that route.
 I recommend using a mandrel saver on your TS.  This will alleviate any undue stress on your mandrel.  If you do not have one or do not want to use one follow the set up instructions that came w/ the Mandrel and use a 60 degree live center.  Make sure your mandrel is straight.  When I used a mandrel I did one part at a time.  This kept the amount of exposed mandrel to minimum and kept any flexing also to a minimum, you only benefit from this if you are using an adjustable mandrel or a mandrel saver.
 Now round out the blank.  I turn as fast as the lathe will go.  Make sure your tools are sharp.  Once you get down to you bushings slow your cuts.  If you don’t know how to use a skew I highly recommend you practice.  I skew will give you a smooth final cut allowing you to start sanding at a higher grit.  The lowest I go to now is 400 but 80% of the time it is 600 just to clean up. 
 
Sanding.
 Lower the speed of your lathe.  Sanding at high speeds creates heat and can damage the turning.  When sanding use a light touch.  Let the paper do the work.  When I rip a piece of sand paper off the roll I rub it back on the other piece, grit to grit.  This will smooth out the sharp edges of the silica and knock down any rogue pieces that want to gouge your work.  When you finish with one grit turn off the lathe and sand bushing to bushing to remove any sanding rings.  Take this time to make sure you cannot see any sanding marks from the last grit.  If you see them  sand some more.  Sand as high as you can.  I only have up to 600 but some go much higher before applying finish.

Side note.
I found that most of my out of round issues were due to my heavy hand either with the tools or sanding.
 
Finish.
 Well, one could go on and on about finishes.  You should try as many as you can until you find one you like.  I do CA, but there are several options.  I recommend you do some searches on the IAP and you will find many great articles on finishes.

 I hope this helps you.  I have a lot to learn myself but I also enjoy sharing what I have learned in the process. I am not real wordy and may not have done the best job explaining but if you have questions shoot me a PM.  Sorry for no pics.  Maybe I will update it on my next pen to add that.


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## glycerine

Thanks for sharing.  Noob or not, it helps to hear other points of view and ways of doing things.


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## TerryDowning

Personally, I would add develop your sharpening skills.
Regardless of method or tools used Properly Sharpened tools will always yield better results.


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## WWAtty

Good review of the basics!  I still picked up a few new tricks from it.  I never thought about using plumbers putty to keep epoxy out of the tubes.  I always used Q-tips to clean it out after insertion.

Another epoxy trick: when you get it on your hands, a rag with a little white vinegar takes it right off--as long as the epoxy is still wet.


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## swanny70

Chris,
Thanks for all the tips.  This is just the tips I need to start turning pens!


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## TomW

Chris,

With your permission, I will put this into the IAP Library-Pen Turning 101 section.

Tom


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## gimpy

Nice job,


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## Justturnin

TomW said:


> Chris,
> 
> With your permission, I will put this into the IAP Library-Pen Turning 101 section.
> 
> Tom



Permission is yours.  I am actually about to start a pen and was going to photo through to ad to it.


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## edicehouse

Great article.


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## rossvh

Thanks Chris. Good review!
One very key point for any enw turner is the amount of perssure you put on the mandrel. Without much effort you can bend the mandrel and not realize it until it's too late. This is extremely inportant for any pen requiring a tenon (like the European kits, etc.) to ensure the twist action works correctly.

Looking forward to more info and insight!

RossVH

"It is better to aim at the stars and miss, then shoot at a skunk and hit it!"


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## NC Wood Art

Hit all the high spots in your review A+


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