# CA Finishing Tips



## JBCustomPens (Feb 11, 2010)

Hey Everybody,

I see a lot around IAP that a lot of people have confusion or questions on the CA finish. We have all been there at one point or another. But, I thought it would be nice if we could help some people out by assembling a few of our CA finishing tips. While there are a million different techniques, most of them rely on principles. So here a few good tips to start, some that I have learned:

1. Don't rush it, take your time.
2. Make sure you put on enough coats of CA.
3. Don't stick the paper towel to the blank!:biggrin:

Those are a few of my tips, and I'm sure myself and other would love to hear yours as well.


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## grub32 (Feb 11, 2010)

If at first you don't succeed...Sand it off and try again...and again.

Grub


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## PaulSF (Feb 13, 2010)

OK, I'm a recent convert to grub32's system, which has worked for me 3 out of 3 times!!

My advice is this:  trust the process.


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## mranum (Feb 13, 2010)

The more I try the more #3 happens.  First 2 coats go on great after that.....*&^%$#@  paper sticking to the blank.  Not sure if I get too hot, not moving quick enough, I've run the lathe from 500rpm-2000rpm same result.  Thin glue, thick glue same result.  Use the same spot on the PT and a new spot all with the same results.  

This time I sanded down the blanks 6 times before I said screw it and put lacquer on.  Maybe later when I feel like playin again.

I have not done the BLO method just because I don't have any BLO at the moment.


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## KenBrasier (Feb 13, 2010)

I have found that the little plastic bags that the pen parts come in work great for applying the CA.  The little ones fit right over my fat index finger, I apply a few drops of CA on the bag, then onto the pen.  I believe it leaves a smoother application than the PT's and gives me a use for all those little bags.


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## mranum (Feb 13, 2010)

KenBrasier said:


> I have found that the little plastic bags that the pen parts come in work great for applying the CA.  The little ones fit right over my fat index finger, I apply a few drops of CA on the bag, then onto the pen.  I believe it leaves a smoother application than the PT's and gives me a use for all those little bags.



Guess I'll try that next.  Thanks!


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## JimB (Feb 13, 2010)

Using wax paper as an applicator also works great.


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## jaws (Feb 13, 2010)

PaulSF said:


> OK, I'm a recent convert to grub32's system, which has worked for me 3 out of 3 times!!
> 
> My advice is this: trust the process.


 
+1

Worked perfect on my very first (and only) pen so far!


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## arkie (Feb 14, 2010)

After sanding the wood to 400 grit, I apply thin CA with a piece of folded Viva paper towel.  I wait a few seconds then apply a second, maybe a third coat.  After that dries well, I cut it back with 400 grit to a uniform surface finish.  That's always taken care of the pores on open grain wood like walnut.  If needed, I'd repeat.  

Then 2-3 more coats, whichever looks right. Let dry well, then work through the micromesh grades through 12,000.  Follow with a touch of Renaissance wax and buff out on the lathe.

I use the plastic bag over my finger.  I use the same spot over and over on the PT.  I'm careful only to wipe on a coat then pull the PT, not rub it out like friction polish.  

I'm using he cheap Walmart brand CA, 4 tubes to the yellow and black blister pack for about $2.  It seems as good as any for the finish, and no expensive bottle to worry about losing if it sets up.


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## PaulDoug (Feb 14, 2010)

That thin white styrofoam stuff they use to wrap thing in for shipping works real good as an applicator also. I also use the blue paper shop towel. 

I run my lathe at the slowest speed when applying it which is 178 rpms on my lathe.


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## BobBerk (Feb 15, 2010)

First wanna say that I never follow the same procedure. The way I finish my pens changes everyday, mainly depending on my mood. BUT for the most part, the following are generally what works for me.

I have personally found, the only time I had the PT stick to the blank was when I tried too hard to get a smooth application of CA. Now I do about 4 real quick back and forth movements with moderate pressure.
So *if you are having problems with the applicator sticking to the blank try reducing the application time per coat.*

Have tried many different applicators, all have worked fine. For me though, I tend to get the smoothest finish with good ol' Paper towels. But *I definitely recommend trying many methods to find what suites you best.*

Also, accelerator is my best friend. I just do half a squirt, wait a sec or 2 and another half squirt. Then wait about 8 seconds, wipe clean, and on to the next coat. Personally have never had any problems with accelerator effecting my finish results.

As far as lathe speed, I can't give a speed because I change it so much every time. I think I generally run it faster than most people though.

Finally, If you're someone like me who likes to do as much research as you can before jumping into something. This is one of those things that I believe you just need to *go and do it*. I think I read just about every post there was on CA finish, and when I tried it, it was still very different than I expected.


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## mranum (Feb 15, 2010)

BobBerk said:


> *if you are having problems with the applicator sticking to the blank try reducing the application time per coat.*



To make sure I'm following this correctly.  Apply it but not necessarily until it is dry and buffed to a gloss?  Just put it smooth and get off and let it dry.  Use fine grit later to smooth and polish?


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## lorbay (Feb 15, 2010)

Curtis( MesquiteMan)

is going to do a video on CA finishing soon as he gets time to do it, I can hardly wait.

Lin.


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## toddlajoie (Feb 15, 2010)

BobBerk said:


> I have personally found, the only time I had the PT stick to the blank was when I tried too hard to get a smooth application of CA.



I can second that, but before I stopped trying to get a smooth coat with the PT, (I'm working on getting this process down, so I don't have a method that works for me as of yet) I found that even when trying to get a smooth coat with the PT, it was less likely to stick if I had soaked some BLO into the PT before I put the CA on it, it was far less likely to stick to the body....

Kind of a solution to a problem that no longer exist (for me), but it may help someone...

I'm currently working with trying to put 2-3 thin coats on rather quickly (a minute or so) followed by 10-15 minutes of leaving it alone to cure, repeat 2 or 3 times. Let it harden for a while (usually overnight, just because that's usually what time it ends up being) followed by the MicroMesh/Polish steps.

My main question right now is:

1: How long do you sand with each of the MM steps? I'm pretty sure I'm WAY over doing it.

2: What sort of pressure are you putting on the MM? I'm probably putting too much on (somewhat firm).

I've watched 5-10 videos of the process by different people, all were very different, and all glossed over some minor points (like the 2 above), and all taken together have me confused (I hate when there is no "proper" way to do something to ensure good results...)


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## skiprat (Feb 15, 2010)

I'm relatively new to succesful CA finishes and my biggest hurdle was forcing my hand to remove the paper towel sooner. :redface: Now I can do a very quick 5-6 back and forth wipes with less CA each time. I never use more than 3-4 drops per coat.
As I'm still practicing with newer woods, I also practice on the same piece as soon as it becomes round ( long before bushes are anywhere near )
This way, I know what to expect when it gets to proper size:wink:


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## BobBerk (Feb 15, 2010)

mranum said:


> To make sure I'm following this correctly.  Apply it but not necessarily until it is dry and buffed to a gloss?  Just put it smooth and get off and let it dry.  Use fine grit later to smooth and polish?


Yup, that's what I'm saying. I know some people use the PT as an accelerator, but everytime I've tried, the CA dries the towel to the blank and rips it out of my hand..


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## mranum (Feb 15, 2010)

OK thanks Bob I'll try that next time.


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## bradh (Feb 18, 2010)

My suggestions are follow this process:
1) read Russ Fairfield's articles on CA finishes.
2) When your CA finish goes wrong, go back and repeat step #1.


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## Daniel (Feb 18, 2010)

About the only "Warning" I ever think to give someone is "Don't sand through the CA" You cannot repair it if you do. So however you take care to not sand through. More coats, thicker coats, apply smoother requiring less sanding or whatever. Don't sand through.
With resent issues I have seen people having I will ad to the list. It is really not all that difficult. well most of the time. you are just coating the wood with plastic. think a little along the line of painting or staining. You also do not get a glass gloss finish by applying the CA. you sand and polish the CA to a shine.
And finally. Hold your mouth just right. if your mouth is not in the right position the CA will never apply well. the correct mouth position is to pull your bottom lip over your head and attach it to you shirt collar. in this position all of your finishes will look perfect.


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## Btimson (Feb 18, 2010)

*ca finish*

Do you use the accelerator between coats of the ca?


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## JBCustomPens (Feb 22, 2010)

Btimson said:


> Do you use the accelerator between coats of the ca?



Some do, and some don't. It is all just a preference. Great list so far by the way!


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## Bree (Feb 23, 2010)

The one tip I want to add is that if you use BLO remember that BLO on wood is NOT part of a CA/BLO finish.  It is a wood finish and has all the requirements of an oil finish on wood.  

BLO... the accelerant/lubricant goes on top of the CA not under CA (first coat).  Get the order of application wrong and you run the genuine risk of clouds under your CA since you have undried oil under the plastic coating.

BTW with the CA/BLO there is no need to MM until you get to the last coat.  The BLO's function as a lubricant allows you to get a beautifully smooth coating each layer where there is no need of intermediary sanding.

It takes a little longer to do but you have no sand through risk and your layers use all the CA without having any sanded off thereby reducing the thickness.  You can get in 3 coats what others achieve in 6 or more coats since they keep sanding off the CA!

My $.02


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## Stephen (Feb 26, 2010)

My main question right now is:

1: How long do you sand with each of the MM steps? I'm pretty sure I'm WAY over doing it.

2: What sort of pressure are you putting on the MM? I'm probably putting too much on (somewhat firm).
Todd,
I wet sand with MM for about 10 secs. I use 3x4 (not sure of size now) two sided padded MM, folded length wise with the fold line curled. Holding one end and sanding with the other end with no direct finger pressure between MM and blank - with the lathe set at mid speed on my VS. The amount of deflection of MM gives me a controlled light pressure. I use this on top of blank first followed by on the underside. Against rotation removes material and with rotation gives a smooth polish. Stop lathe and cross sand. This works fine for me. For me finger pressure between MM and blank tends to get aggressive because I am heavy handed - LOL unable to control!!! 
 I have switched to this method for about 3 months and am pleased with the results.


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## Seer (Feb 26, 2010)

I use this method if any are interested
www.mysimplecafinish.com


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## TellicoTurning (Feb 27, 2010)

JBCustomPens said:


> Hey Everybody,
> 
> I see a lot around IAP that a lot of people have confusion or questions on the CA finish. We have all been there at one point or another. But, I thought it would be nice if we could help some people out by assembling a few of our CA finishing tips. While there are a million different techniques, most of them rely on principles. So here a few good tips to start, some that I have learned:
> 
> ...



I don't use paper towels for applicators for this very reason and the fact that the CA will soak into the towel and you lose a portion before it gets on the blank.... I've found that the foam sheets that comes wrapped around your new vcr or other electronics works much better... cut them into 1 x 2 inch strips... the ca doesn't soak in, you can apply it quickly and not (if you're not messy) get any on your fingers... I do use the paper towels when I apply the plastic polish after the wet sanding.


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## TellicoTurning (Feb 27, 2010)

Btimson said:


> Do you use the accelerator between coats of the ca?




I do, don't know if others do... I usually will hit the first coat of CA with the accelerator, then after about every third coat and the final coat... I also wet sand after the final coat through the 12000 MM (I use the little 2x2 pads that PSI sells), then plastic polish the last coat.

I also only use the medium CA... tried the thin on first coat and it's too watery... I wound up with more on my fingers than the blank, switched to medium and almost never get CA on the fingers... tried the thick and always got ridges that were too hard to sand out....


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## TellicoTurning (Feb 27, 2010)

Stephen said:


> My main question right now is:
> 
> 1: How long do you sand with each of the MM steps? I'm pretty sure I'm WAY over doing it.
> 
> ...



Stephen,
I hit each grit on the MM about 3 or 4 passes... I wet my fingers and use them to wipe the blank between grits and feel the blank to see if it's smooth... usually the first grit (600 I think) needs the most passes... if you aren't smooth when you move off the 600, it's not going to be smooth when you reach 12000.


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