# mesquite question



## nwcatman (Dec 3, 2007)

i have acquired a few pieces of mesquite to turn, but it is fairly straight grained and kind of light colored, almost tan. can it be stained or ??? to make it darker more rich looking&gt;  THANKS!


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## alamocdc (Dec 3, 2007)

Put it in the sun for a week or so. It should darken up nicely.


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## Texatdurango (Dec 3, 2007)

Before I resorted to staining the wood, I would try something first.  When you have the blank turned, ready to put a finish on, take a little Mylands Sanding Sealer and wipe on the blank.

It really brings out the richness of the wood and makes it come alive without covering the wood with stain.

Here is a group of mesquite pens I made a few months back to show you that they aren't all that bad looking.  Just plain ole mesquite with two coats of Mylands sealer then a CA finish.




<br />


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## nwcatman (Dec 3, 2007)

really? it had been stacked lengthwise for fire wood for a long time and the only exposed to the sun parts, the ends, are extremely light.


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## nwcatman (Dec 3, 2007)

texatdurando-  those are some really good looking pens! the middle one, the top half (don't remember if its a cap or not) is what most of the grain in mine looks like.


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## Rifleman1776 (Dec 3, 2007)

"....aren't all that bad looking."  ??????
Gross understatement. Knock out good looking IMHO.


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## maxwell_smart007 (Dec 3, 2007)

BLO tends to darken wood up when it's applied as well...

Maybe your mesquite is sapwood - the sapwood's much lighter than the heartwood, I think


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## wdcav1952 (Dec 3, 2007)

BLO is a great idea.  Just be sure that it has plenty of time, like overnight to dry as it can cause blushing under some finishes unless it is fully cured.


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## Firefyter-emt (Dec 3, 2007)

I have some thin branch cuttings that Stevers sent me about a year ago that are almost yellow as well as some blocks with sapwood that is yellow so I would say this may be the case.


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## its_virgil (Dec 3, 2007)

after sanding I apply WATCO Danish OIL (medium Walnut) to all pens I make, except the lighter woods such as maple. Every wooden pen that I've posted has had the WATCO applied to it. I apply it after sanding and before I start my finishing process. I put it on with the lathe on slow and immediately follow it with a clean portion of the rag. Give it a try...you may like it.

Do a good turn daily!
Don



> _Originally posted by Firefyter-emt_
> <br />I have some thin branch cuttings that Stevers sent me about a year ago that are almost yellow as well as some blocks with sapwood that is yellow so I would say this may be the case.


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## MesquiteMan (Dec 3, 2007)

For something different with your straight grained mesquite...try muriatic acid!  After you have it turned and sanded, use an acid brush and apply a light coat of muriatic acid.  Let it set until it has completely dried.  Then LIGHTLY sand and finish as normal.  Some of the mesquite will turn an iredescent purple color and the rest will end up with a VERY rich burgundy that you can not get with any stain.  Try it, you might like it!


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## airrat (Dec 3, 2007)

Interesting Curtis.  I might try that even though I love mesquite as it is.


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## wdcav1952 (Dec 3, 2007)

Neat idea, Curtis.  I'll have to try that tomorrow.


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## GBusardo (Dec 3, 2007)

> _Originally posted by its_virgil_
> <br />
> after sanding I apply WATCO Danish OIL (medium Walnut) to all pens I make, except the lighter woods such as maple. Every wooden pen that I've posted has had the WATCO applied to it. I apply it after sanding and before I start my finishing process. I put it on with the lathe on slow and immediately follow it with a clean portion of the rag. Give it a try...you may like it.
> 
> ...



Don,  How long do you wait for the Watco to cure before finishing??  The cure time is what stops me from applying much of anything before I apply a finish. I might be missing something.
Thanks


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## its_virgil (Dec 3, 2007)

Gary, 
I place 3 or 4 drops (I keep the WATCO in a small bottle I buy from Monty) on a paper towel and apply it to the blanks. Immediately afterwards I use the towel to remove the excess and then to dry the blanks as they spin in the towel. I immediately apply the CA finish. I use boiled linseed oil with the CA finish. No waiting and I love the way the WATCO darkens the wood just a little. I have used light walnut and fruitwood and settled on medium walnut. Good luck...give it a try.  I seldom use any other finish but when I do it's the same. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by GBusardo_
> Don,  How long do you wait for the Watco to cure before finishing??  The cure time is what stops me from applying much of anything before I apply a finish. I might be missing something.
> Thanks


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## jskeen (Dec 3, 2007)

Curtis; 

When you say use muriatic acid to color mesquite, do you mean hydrocloric acid?  If so what percentage? Straight or dilute?  Where would one find Muriatic acid?  Do you have any pics posted or that you could put up showing the colors? 

Great idea, just looking for some details.

Thanks


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## MesquiteMan (Dec 4, 2007)

James,

I believe Hydrochloric and Muriatic are the same.  I buy it from a local hardware store in the section where they have thinners, etc.  You can also find it anyplace that sells swimming pool supplies since it is used heavily in pools.

I use it straight from the bottle but I believe it is a diluted formula anyway.  I do not have any pics but have done it on pens and vases as well.


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## maxwell_smart007 (Dec 4, 2007)

yep, they're definitely the same!


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## alamocdc (Dec 4, 2007)

Yep, same stuff, but muriatic acid is diluted HCl. Most of the stuff you'll buy at the box stores is 25% - 30%. Will it burn you? Yes, if you let it stay in one place long enough, but it rinses off with water easily. Just wear protection and don't get it in your eyes.[] Been using the stuff for about 40 years. First used it to clean boat hulls when I was 14.


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## ldb2000 (Dec 4, 2007)

I use Watco Teak oil . just a bit on a paper towel and full speed on the lathe then take off any excess and finish with CA . The teak oil brings out the chatoyance (I love that word) of the wood


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## GBusardo (Dec 4, 2007)

Thanks to everyone for some great ideas


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