# Berea New Series Style Screw Cap...



## Richard Gibson (Jul 16, 2011)

Has anyone made one of these yet???

It appears the directions may be wrong. They have a method that allows you to NOT cut a tenon. It says to cut the blank to exactly 1 7/8". It then says when you glue in the tube it will extend beyond the blank. (Sounds right so far.) The problem comes that as with most pens the "short tube" is the cap which is the one with the extended tube. But the short tube is less than 1 7/8"!

If I use the "longer tube" it appears that it may be too long and the center band would not push on flush.  Can anyone give me some guidance?


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## ed4copies (Jul 16, 2011)

I can confirm that you are reading correctly, and you are correct that the shorter tube is 1.825, not 1.875 (1&7/8)0

A GUESS, based on the picture and measuring the clip--this should be 1 and FIVE eighths---but that is certainly NOT final.

I will take one home and try to make it--let you know tomorrow, if you don't get a better answer by then.


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## witz1976 (Jul 16, 2011)

The CB gets pressed onto the remaining brass that is left.  It is just like the series 2000 screw caps.  I would just cut a tenon....unless Ed confirms differently.


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## PenMan1 (Jul 16, 2011)

I'm with Dan on cutting the tenon. This is one of those cases where the cure is worse than the ailment.


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## Richard Gibson (Jul 16, 2011)

witz1976 said:


> The CB gets pressed onto the remaining brass that is left.  It is just like the series 2000 screw caps.  I would just cut a tenon.



Even if I cut a tenon, the measurements are not correct. They state to cut it 1 7/8" from the end


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## witz1976 (Jul 16, 2011)

Ah, I was going by the instructions which didn't state the tube lengths.


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## Richard Gibson (Jul 17, 2011)

I've written customer service but don't expect to hear anything for a day or two.


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## Lenny (Jul 17, 2011)

If I remember correctly (and that would be rare indeed) there may be two different centerbands and the instructions are for a one but you have to adjust for the other. I know, ... it shouldn't be that way!


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## Lenny (Jul 17, 2011)

After looking it over I may have that confused with another set of components. I have always cut a tenon with that kit. It just seems easier to me. I believe I have always used the 1 7/8", and don't remember it being a problem. I DO remember having to use a file to clean up inside the centerband otherwise I have had scratching issues when posting.


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## pfde4 (Jul 17, 2011)

The directions state the longer tube is the clip end.


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

In the "pen parts diagram" on page 3 bottom diagram, it shows the shorter tube as the cap tube.

I still hope to get home early enough to turn one tonight--


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## pfde4 (Jul 17, 2011)

Sorry, Ed

My bad its been a long long week. I stand corrected.


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## Smitty37 (Jul 17, 2011)

*could be this*

Doesn't the centerband get attached to the clip end and overlap the nib end when the pen is screwed closed. In which case the amout of tube exposed would be less than the width of the band...


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

pfde4 said:


> Sorry, Ed
> 
> My bad its been a long long week. I stand corrected.




I didn't mean to be contradictory----just seems we are already confused enough:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

Smitty37 said:


> Doesn't the centerband get attached to the clip end and overlap the nib end when the pen is screwed closed. In which case the amout of tube exposed would be less than the width of the band...



You are correct, but it's hard to leave 1.875 of material on a  tube that is shorter than that!!

There IS a mistake, just a question of what the answer SHOULD be.


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

Lenny, if you have done the old "2000 series", I found out the tubes are the same ID, which leads me to believe the rest is probably VERY similar.  So, dig out old notes!!!


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> pfde4 said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry, Ed
> ...



*Perhaps NOT!!*  In doing some research, the instructions for the 2000 series seem nearly identical EXCEPT they show the LONG tube as the CAP!!!  PERHAPS  the new instructions are incorrect in the lower photo on page 3!!!


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## Smitty37 (Jul 17, 2011)

*True*

I see Ed, I think you are on to something. They lifted the instructions from a similar kit with a longer "short" tube and forgot to change the measurement. Made that mistake a time or two myself in a past life.  Copied an ALMOST identical procedure and forgot something when updating to the new use.


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## Smitty37 (Jul 17, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> ed4copies said:
> 
> 
> > pfde4 said:
> ...


 
The bigger diameter tube has to be the cap whether it is short or long. In the photo of the completed pen it looks like the shorter tube is the cap.


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

You're indispensible, Smitty!!

After making only several thousand pens, I KNEW that!!!  What if they are BOTH the SAME diameter????


Sheeeeeshhhhhh!!!


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## Smitty37 (Jul 17, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> You're indispensible, Smitty!!
> 
> After making only several thousand pens, I KNEW that!!! What if they are BOTH the SAME diameter????
> 
> ...


 Hmmmm, you have a point there..... and they are...I assumed larger bushing larger tube, bad assumption.  But, eyeballing the picture,  the cap is shorter than the lower barrel.  And---not one but both the illustrations showing the tubes identify the shorter tube as the cap tube so if the longer tube is the cap both illustrations must be wrong.


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## Richard Gibson (Jul 17, 2011)

I put the center band pieces together and then measured from the edge up to the threads which is .1445. So that should be the distance from the end I should cut (part?) if I'm doing a tenion ( or the amount to leave sticking out if using the other method.). This is all assuming that the short tube is the cap tube.


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## Lenny (Jul 17, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Lenny, if you have done the old "2000 series", I found out the tubes are the same ID, which leads me to believe the rest is probably VERY similar. So, dig out old notes!!!


 

Yes, any I've done where probably the old series. The instructions say 2004.
I have notes stating tubes are the same for upper and lower at 1 63/64" long. bushings .486 and .451  
fwiw


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## ed4copies (Jul 17, 2011)

ok, the pen is finished and yes, the short tube IS the cap.

The correct measurement should be 1.625" ( 1 and 5/8)  This makes the cap look good.  It also leaves a skinny 1\8" of exposed brass.  Glue will be a "must".  When I used CA, not surprisingly, I got it on the acrylic, but quick action made this a "non-disaster".

There are a couple other things I learned that I will incorporate in my instructions.  But if you follow this dimension, you WILL complete the pen.


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## Richard Gibson (Jul 18, 2011)

Ed, Thanks for the guidance. Glad I wasn't crazy when I started measuring this pen. When will you update your instructions with the "couple other things I learned " ??


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## jppensplus (Jul 18, 2011)

According to my conversation with Berea today, the preferred length of the cap blank, either by initial cutting or by tenoning on the lathe, is 1 11/16".  1 5/8" might work, but be careful so the tube doesn't interfere with the threads in the center band.


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## Richard Gibson (Jul 19, 2011)

Just received this from Berea yesterday:
"Richard,
You are correct that the measurement is wrong, the correct measurement 
should be 1 5/8 or 1 11/16 either will work. We will correct this on the instruction sheet.
The short tube is the cap, the long tube is the body. This is correct on the instruction sheet.    Thank you for pointing this out to us.

The Berea Hardwoods Co. Inc.


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## ed4copies (Jul 19, 2011)

Berea's direction is correct.  Like many other kits, this will require you to glue the centerband (cap threads) in place.  After doing that, do NOT screw the cap on the pen and add it to your inventory.  You may find, as I did, that the pen is now permanently closed (CA glue "leaked" onto the threads).

In retrospect, pretty predictable result.  At the time I did it, just didn't occur to me.

Hope this saves you all from one problem!!


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## ttpenman (Jul 19, 2011)

All this talk about a new pen but no pictures!!  I'm not sure it really exists??  Inquiring minds want to know??

Jeff in northern Wisconsin


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## ed4copies (Jul 19, 2011)

Pictures are here:

http://www.exoticblanks.com/index.p...rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=179&Itemid=60


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## turn4fun (Jul 19, 2011)

Turning a new pen kit can certainly have its challenges.  This thread reminded me of something I heard a long time ago and have always got a chuckle out of.. "Do you know the definition of a pioneer?.. he's the guy with the arrow in his chest."  Hah! :wink:


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## ed4copies (Jul 19, 2011)

turn4fun said:


> Turning a new pen kit can certainly have its challenges.  This thread reminded me of something I heard a long time ago and have always got a chuckle out of.. "Do you know the definition of a pioneer?.. he's the guy with the arrow in his chest."  Hah! :wink:



Just think!!!  In the early days of pen kits, we each did this independently.  There was no place to meet and discuss and the vendors expected us to be "craftsmen" not "assemblers"---figure out the problems and SOLVE them, (Yes, some actually said that).

I can't begin to tell you how many kits and materials I wasted---tubes were not available as a separate item-early on.

It is truly a changed world---mostly for the better!!


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## Richard Gibson (Jul 19, 2011)

Thank you Ed and all the others that I did not have to take that arrow in the chest :biggrin:


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## Lenny (Jul 19, 2011)

Richard and Ed, Thanks for figuring this out and hopefully saving some others from confusion! 

Speaking of confusion .... I thought you were refering to the series 2000 Flat top .... I've got to read more carefully. :redface:


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## ed4copies (Jul 19, 2011)

Actually you read that right, Lenny.

The bushings I located (since I am out of the right ones), were from the old 2000 series and they fit the ID of this pen.  So, the rest I could "fake" with my caliper.  

It was fun---been a while since I did a kit without knowing where I was headed!!!


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## ToddMR (Jul 19, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Berea's direction is correct.  Like many other kits, this will require you to glue the centerband (cap threads) in place.  After doing that, do NOT screw the cap on the pen and add it to your inventory.  You may find, as I did, that the pen is now permanently closed (CA glue "leaked" onto the threads).
> 
> In retrospect, pretty predictable result.  At the time I did it, just didn't occur to me.
> 
> Hope this saves you all from one problem!!



ROFLMAO!!!!!  Ed that is too funny!


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## Chasper (Jul 19, 2011)

After reading this entire thread I'm reminded of something I always instinstively believe is a good practice:  NEVER READ INSTRUCTIONS!

That is a good looking pen BTW.  I believe there is a place in the market for this pen, I'm often asked for a thinner and lighter fountain pen.  The shoppers who are long time fountain pen users often expect their pens to look like these.


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## Martino23 (Dec 27, 2011)

*So, is this a good kit?*

I have made a few slimlines, and I am looking for the next level.

I also would like a rollerball pen.

Is this a good kit?

I also read somewhere to watch out for plating wearing off the threads, but I don't know which kit does that.

I would like a quality kit, not the cheapest, but not the most expensive, either.

Let me know if this would be a good "next" kit.

Not for sale, just for personal satisfaction and gifts for relatives.

Thanks!


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## nativewooder (Dec 27, 2011)

I know you guys have turned about a million more pens than I have, but I don't understand why someone didn't call Berea's 800 number and discuss this with their tech dept.


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## hilltopper46 (Dec 27, 2011)

The tenon issue is resolved. If you look at the instructions on Berea's Web site the dimension has been revised.

As far as a kit, it's so-so (IMHO). I like the smaller diameter, the centerband is OK, but the shape of the cap finial leaves a lot to be desired.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Forum Runner


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## Richard Gibson (Dec 27, 2011)

Martino23 said:


> I have made a few slimlines, and I am looking for the next level.
> 
> I also would like a rollerball pen.
> 
> ...




Martino -after slimlines, my next was the Classic Elite from PSI. It was easy and I still sale a lot of those now. Just my two cents worth and opinion.


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## ed4copies (Dec 27, 2011)

nativewooder said:


> I know you guys have turned about a million more pens than I have, but I don't understand why someone didn't call Berea's 800 number and discuss this with their tech dept.



Because the discussion started on a Saturday, after Berea was closed for the weekend.


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## butchf18a (Dec 28, 2011)

*call Joe*

:airplane:





Richard Gibson said:


> I've written customer service but don't expect to hear anything for a day or two.


 
Don't write...call them direct and ask for Joe. He's the engineer/machinist. Let us know what he says.


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## ed4copies (Dec 28, 2011)

Joe and Jim would be the ones who amended the original instructions---what more would you like to know?

(I talk with them regularly)


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## butchf18a (Dec 30, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Joe and Jim would be the ones who amended the original instructions---what more would you like to know?
> 
> (I talk with them regularly)


 
absolutely correct. I count both as personal friends, back when Jim and I were first persuing Black titanium. While there is and will continue to be excellent advice within this forum, nothing beats the original source. Jim and Joe both will take whatever time is necessary to help anyone resolve a problem, or perceived problem with one of there kits. They also accept the truth of they don't know it all, often times feedback from the "real world" helps them improve their product.


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