# Renaissance was vs. TSW



## jb_pratt (May 10, 2005)

Over the past several months I have been using Renaissance wax after I have finished my pens.  I have been pleased with the results.  After getting together with one of the other members on this site and reading a great deal about TSW I have decided to give it a try.

As usual I have a few questions for you finishing experts:
Do I use TSW first and Renaissance wax on top of that?  Or do I use TSW in place of the Renaissance wax?  One last question, I have applied the Renaissance wax after the pen was assembled and have used it on both the wood and the metal fittings, do I do the same with the TSW?


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## swm6500 (May 10, 2005)

I have noticed that Old Griz has been using both TSW and Renaisannce Wax, maybe he will tell us how he uses them together. He really puts out some quality work.


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## Old Griz (May 10, 2005)

On the occassions that I use TSW it is applied first and then the Ren wax is applied as a top coat protectorant.... Sometimes I will apply 2 coats of TSW, but do them one day apart so the first coat has a chance to cure... you can get a real high gloss with TSW IF you follow the directions..
EDIT IN -- I will use the TSW over a CA finish also to get a really high high gloss.. just make sure that the CA finish is at the highest gloss you can get.. I use Hut or Novus Plastic polish to get there before the TSW
The pics below are TSW and Ren Wax.. The pink ivory set is one coat of TSW and the Curly Koa in the same pic is 2 coats.. the Bottom pic is also 2 coats... you can see a difference...


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## jdavis (May 10, 2005)

Second the beautiful work Griz puts out. He has the finish tech. down to perfection.


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## jb_pratt (May 10, 2005)

Amazing work Griz!  This is exactly the advice I was looking for.  Thanks for your help


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## emsmith (May 10, 2005)

Beautiful pens!


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## Old Griz (May 10, 2005)

[:I][:I][:I]Jack, I wouldn't go that far... you don't see the stuff that never makes it out of the house... [] There have been a whole load of pens that I have had to finish 2-3 times on the lathe.. and I am sure there will be a load more.. [xx(]


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## ed4copies (May 10, 2005)

Tom,

How do you remember what finish you used on which pen, I can't remember what species they are.  Turn, label, inventory (gotta remember which comes first).  As always, beautiful work.


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## Old Griz (May 10, 2005)

It's easy.. there is so much space between my ears not being used something occassionally sticks up there... []


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## Leather Man (May 10, 2005)

Beautiful pens Tom. I really like the bottom one. 
Ben


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## mikes pens (May 10, 2005)

Sorry to veer off line but I need to ask Tom this (I am sure he has answered this before for someone).  How do you get such beautiful pictures to turn out.  That second picture is absolutely amazing.  My pictures don't usually show that kind of detail.  What's your secret?

Mike


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## swm6500 (May 10, 2005)

I have to agree with Mike, Griz turns out some awesome pictures of his awesome pens. Those are beautiful Griz.


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## arehrlich (May 10, 2005)

Not only great looking pens, but great looking pix as well.  You certainly have the knack with the CA finish.  Someday.....[8)]

Alan


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## JimGo (May 10, 2005)

Are you guys kidding?  Secrets?  Tom has no secrets!  That's one of the things I really admire about Tom; he's always willing to share how he did something!  Check out the Pen Photography forum (http://www.penturners.org/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=21 )for tips on pen pics, including my latest acquisition, a "photo booth" from a white trash can.  Did a great job for me!


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## DCBluesman (May 10, 2005)

There is a new formulary for TSW which will be reaching Pens of Color shortly and which is already available through Jim Lambert.  The changes are: 1) TSW can now be power buffed on the mandrel 45 seconds after application; 2) second and subsequent coats may be spaced at 12 instead of 24 hours; 3) the softening agent has been changed for faster evaporation and at a lower temperature; 4) it has been tested with Behlen's, Mylands, Enduro and Shellawax--all with excellent results (make sure your build coats are cured); and 5) the finish is now even harder, due to the addition of another rainforest plant extract.  You may notice that the coconut smell is less pronounced.


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## JimGo (May 10, 2005)

Gee, I guess I'd better get busy...I just got some from POC!  Can't wait to go through it all so I can order more! []


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## Old Griz (May 11, 2005)

The only thing done after the pic it taken is to run the Auto Color, Auto Levels and Auto Contrast setting on my photo editing software after I crop the picture to size... on the spalted red elm Baron I did blur the support wood a bit as an experiment... 
Mike has been up to the shop (HA HA a generous name for the garage) and has seen all my stuff.. he can verify the accuracy of how the pens look... 
I am still not a big fan of digital photography, or at least won't be until SWHTM let's me buy a Nikon Digital body for all my lenses [][], I still think that film takes the best photos in a properly set up environment.. but for out purposes digital is fine..


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## RPM (May 11, 2005)

I have had the pleasure of trying the new TSW formula.  Having gone through a container of the original and being sold on it, the new formula blew me away.  Much harder, very nice feel in the hand and seems to build better.
Richard


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## melogic (May 11, 2005)

Thanks Lou for the NEW TSW! I love the old stuff, so I guess I will admire the new stuff. [^]


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## swm6500 (May 11, 2005)

If you all keep it up, I will have to try the TSW.


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## timdaleiden (May 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by swm6500_
> <br />If you all keep it up, I will have to try the TSW.



  Some people may not be surprised that I am not completely sold on TSW. 

  I have two reasons for this. 

  1: This is a relatively new product. The long term durability and usefulness has yet to be determined. 

  2: We have little information about its composition, so guessing at its long term durability is difficult. 

 Having said that, there have been many testimonials, including some by very experienced pen turners, that short term usefulness seems quite positive.

 As for the Renaissance Wax, we do have numerous long term testimonials. Please visit the following links.

http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html

http://www.restorationproduct.com/

 Please no flaming.


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## wayneis (May 12, 2005)

Tim I don't know why anyone would flame you as you are just stating an opinion and backing it up with facts.  I happen to agree with you.

Wayne


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## woodpens (May 12, 2005)

My opinion could easily be presumed biased as I am now selling TSW. However, I have used two containers of TSW, and have just started on the latest formula. I like the previous formular enough to stop using Ren Wax at all. I used to use it on all of my pens. I now use TSW on top of another finish, either CA or Mylands friction polish. Both Ren Wax and TSW will protect the wood and hardware from smudges and finger prints. TSW also has a UV inhibitor. Applying Ren Wax seems more like applying a grease film to the pen than a finish or polish. I liked using Ren Wax. It certainly gave the pens a better look and feel than they had without it. TSW is even better in my opinion. I have not yet used enough of the latest formula to see a big difference. The reduced curing time will certainly be a plus. All I can do is suggest that you try TSW and compare your pens with and without it. I may be stepping out on a limb here, but if you buy TSW from me and find you are dissatisfied, I will buy it back minus shipping.


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## RPM (May 16, 2005)

As a pen turner that is interested in the best possible products for my work, I can only say, given the testimonials for TSW, if you don't have a pen in your pocket every day checking out the new stuff yourself, I've got some buggy whips for you.  Not a flame and not saying what product is better, you owe it to yourself and your customers to test it yourself.  Don't wait for me or the others to test it.  If you have not checked yourself, you have not checked it.  This is true for Ren wax, TSW or Super Pen Slime 3000.  The comments you see here, if consistent, should prompt you to get some, try it and make your own determinations.  I think that in the context of this forum, being a naysayer is only appropriate if you have directly experienced a negative result.  Please no flames, just a suggestion.  We as a collective body have a unique opportunity to do some large scale testing of products among ourselves in a rapid manner.  This is for the collective good and should not be subject to prejudices or product loyalties.  Thank you for putting up with my comment.
Richard


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## wdcav1952 (May 17, 2005)

Richard,

That sound you hear is me giving you a standing ovation!  Excellent post [^] [^] [^]


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## timdaleiden (May 17, 2005)

> _Originally posted by RPM_
> <br />As a pen turner that is interested in the best possible products for my work, I can only say, given the testimonials for TSW, if you don't have a pen in your pocket every day checking out the new stuff yourself, I've got some buggy whips for you.  Not a flame and not saying what product is better, you owe it to yourself and your customers to test it yourself.  Don't wait for me or the others to test it.  If you have not checked yourself, you have not checked it.  This is true for Ren wax, TSW or Super Pen Slime 3000.  The comments you see here, if consistent, should prompt you to get some, try it and make your own determinations.  I think that in the context of this forum, being a naysayer is only appropriate if you have directly experienced a negative result.  Please no flames, just a suggestion.  We as a collective body have a unique opportunity to do some large scale testing of products among ourselves in a rapid manner.  This is for the collective good and should not be subject to prejudices or product loyalties.  Thank you for putting up with my comment.
> Richard



 Richard, 

 If you had read the links I provided, you would have noticed that all of the waxes prior to Ren Wax were based on either beeswax, or Carnauba Wax. Here is a direct quote:

"How, RENAISSANCE Wax,
the "Perfect Wax" was created:
Prior to 1950, the only polishes available were based on beeswax and carnuba wax. Unfortunately, these natural, saponifiable products could cause damage when acids arose spontaneously through oxidation or hydrolysis."

 Short term results mean little to me. 

 This is another quote from the same site. 

 "no "polish smell;" no added fragrance to endanger substrate material."

http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html

  I noticed the "new and improved" TSW description has this notation.

  "You may notice that the coconut smell is less pronounced."

  I still am not sold on TSW. I don't think that I want to submit my finished work to experimentation at this point.  After all, if this stuff was so good to start with, why was there a reformulation? 

  I will stay with Ren Wax for now. 

  And Wayne, 

  To answer your question as to why I was expecting flames to my post...the last time I questioned something about TSW, somebody had a major meltdown, announced that he was leaving for a while...and the town lit up like I was the last witch in the neighborhood. 

  That was not at all what I expected. I own a business myself, and I am always more than happy to answer any question about what I make, or how I conduct my business matters.


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## hobby_dale (May 18, 2005)

Tim,

Thanks for being honest in your thoughts and suggestion.  "Lit up like I was the last witch"... still has me laughing...  

Dale[]


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## RPM (May 18, 2005)

Tim,
I respect your opinion.  My main point is that we should remain open minded when new things come along.  And, no I'm not suggesting abandoning the tried and true.  I guess I can best make my point by imagining the uproar in 1950 when someone suggested that polishes don't have to be based on "beeswax or carnuba wax".  Additionally, I don't see an ad for Ren Wax as an extremely objective source of information that justifies the subjective negative comments about other products.  I would feel differently and would remain silent if you were posting comments about bad experiences that you have had with these products rather than posting maybes, mights and could bes.  Again, I respect your opinion and am only commenting on my thoughts with regard to making product reviews within this forum more useful to all.
Have a good one,
Richard


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## woodpens (May 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> I noticed the "new and improved" TSW description has this notation.
> 
> "You may notice that the coconut smell is less pronounced."
> ...


I respect your opinion, Tim. What you choose to use is based on your experience and perceptions. I suspect the coconut aroma was reduced when some customers voiced that they don't like coconut. Personally, I love the smell as well as the results of the finish. One thing I can assure you is that TSW is not simply Ren Wax with a coconut smell. If people didn't continue their efforts to improve products, we'd be in sad shape. I hope Lou continues his efforts to make TSW even better than it already is.


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## Thumbs (May 23, 2005)

The only reasonable, equable, and final long term answer and solution to this question of the better wax compound; its longevity; ease of use; and general overall quality; is to submit both substances to an unbiased comparative test regimen and routine uncomplicated by source acquisition economics and end user qualifications.

[}]In short, send me a large, free sample of both.  I'll tell you which is best!  

Use pretty jars, cans, or bottles, you never know what might provide the last bit of data I might require to tip those bitter but honest scales of justice to decide one way or the other.  I must, also honestly, say that while wrapping bills of various denominations around those same containers for shipping protection might be frowned upon by some testing agencies; we here, at <b>YostLabs</b>, try to show every consideration to all interested parties no matter how overzealous "others" might consider them.  

So while all of you are anxiously awaiting the results of our study, remember we're, anxiously, awaiting "free", "large" samples!  

Thank you for your support, <b>YostLabs</b>, an unknown subsidiary of Muppet Labs.[]
[}][}][^][}][}]


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## wdcav1952 (May 23, 2005)

Hey Thumbs, thought you were asleep at the keyboard or something.  I guess the "wood collection" gig didn't work out so now you are offering to test finishes []

BTW, was it you who called the other day and told me I might be a winner at the Publishers' Clearing House?  If so, sorry I hung up on you. []


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## Thumbs (May 23, 2005)

William,

 <b>Bob's Wood Storage Sanctuary </b>is still in service and still eagerly awaiting more specimens for study. (No, I don't want any specimens of that!)  However, as a non-profit facility, it certainly has been quite successful!  I'm nearly broke![] Thus I'm also quite willing to explore many other venues to support my habit.

I am sorry to report that <b>The Publishers Clearing House</b> has withdrawn its offer to you.  You were on the fastrack to becoming our next millionaire and you just blew it!  And I was pulling for you, using all my considerable influence, too; but, _<u>Nooo</u>_, you had to hang up on me when the <b>Chief Publisher</b> was standing by to give you the big award![!]  Oh well, such are the wayward winds and fickle wings of fate. [}]  <u>_<b>Better luck next time when you, too, can be our next big winner!</b>_</u>[][][}][][]

<b>Note:  YostLabs disavows any affiliation for claims made by the BWSS or PCH and maintains its full independence from any foreign or domestic influences!  Thank you for your support.</b>


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## jenamison (May 23, 2005)

Hey is the PCH making any finishes???[]


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## Thumbs (May 23, 2005)

<u>_Sorry_</u>, the <b>CP</b> of <b>PCH</b> said only money no finishes.  You're out of luck, too![]  <b>Better luck next time!</b>[][]


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## Rifleman1776 (May 24, 2005)

From an old posting, Tim said, "Prior to 1950, the only polishes available were based on beeswax and carnuba wax. Unfortunately, these natural, saponifiable products could cause damage when acids arose spontaneously through oxidation or hydrolysis." I'm not sure that is fully accurate, synthetics have been with us for a long time. And if I knew what 'saponifiable' meant, I would argue with that too. [][] BTW, I have good luck with plain old Johnsons paste wax.


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## ctEaglesc (May 24, 2005)

About Ren wax having no smell,I don't know who they think they are kidding.
It smells just like NEVA DULL which is a brass cleaner and polish.
That being said,I love TSW on everything but my brass casing pens.On those it seems to smudge.It does go on the antler or wood components, Ren Wax on the brass.


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## wdcav1952 (May 24, 2005)

Eagle, I thought it was just me.  A new turner asked me about the two products.  I opened both for him and told him I preferred my fingers to smell like coconut rather than petroleum distillates when I was polishing.  Neither has an odor (to me) after being used and buffed.  Is one better? I don't know, I just like the results that I get with TSW.  Now understand, my pens are not valuable works of art, so the risk in using a new product on them is minimal.  Just curious, how many years has the use of CA as a finish been researched?


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## ctEaglesc (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wdcav1952_
> <br />Eagle, I thought it was just me.  A new turner asked me about the two products.  I opened both for him and told him I preferred my fingers to smell like coconut rather than petroleum distillates when I was polishing.  Neither has an odor (to me) after being used and buffed.  Is one better? I don't know, I just like the results that I get with TSW.  Now understand, my pens are not valuable works of art, so the risk in using a new product on them is minimal.  Just curious, how many years has the use of CA as a finish been researched?



I have read a life expectancy of ten years for a CA finish, but I don't know what that remark is based on.
I have often wondered what prompted the first person to try CA as a finish, and who it was.
I mean it's kind of like the guy that ate the first lobser, what was he thinking?


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## hobby_dale (May 24, 2005)

Yeah and what about the person who first put warm, drawn butter on it to improve the taste.  Maybe it was the same person who first looked at the lobster and said, "Hey, I think I will eat this!:  [][]


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## ctEaglesc (May 24, 2005)

yep and what about clams?
I won't even bring up the subject of how hard up the guy must have been the first time a Rocky Mountain oyster was eaten.(Nevr had em can't make a call one way or the other.)
I love lobster and clams though.
Oysters too.
What WERE they thinking?


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## RussFairfield (May 24, 2005)

I don't think that CA has been used as a pen finish long enough to call it the "Magic Finish". CA glue has been in general use as a pen finish for no more than 2 years that I know of. Is that long enough to know what effect our minger and body oils and moisture will have on the CA finish, or what will be the effect of oils in the wood? 

There are a lot of qualifiers for type, purity, and age before using; but my experience with CA glues in general has been that they can get very brittle, start to shrink, and start turning into an amber color after a 3 to 5 years. That time is shorter with exposure to moisture and oil.


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## JimGo (May 24, 2005)

Interesting.  Thanks Russ!


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## timdaleiden (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cteaglesc_
> <br />About Ren wax having no smell,I don't know who they think they are kidding.
> It smells just like NEVA DULL which is a brass cleaner and polish.



 Eagle, 

  The ad simply said that no fragrance was "added". They then stated why.


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## timdaleiden (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wdcav1952_
> <br />Eagle, I thought it was just me.  A new turner asked me about the two products.  I opened both for him and told him I preferred my fingers to smell like coconut rather than petroleum distillates when I was polishing.  Neither has an odor (to me) after being used and buffed.  Is one better? I don't know, I just like the results that I get with TSW.  Now understand, my pens are not valuable works of art, so the risk in using a new product on them is minimal.  Just curious, how many years has the use of CA as a finish been researched?



 William, 

  If I chose my finishing products by how they smell, I would use Hut Crystal Coat. 

  Good question about CA. I almost never use it as a finish anymore. I am sticking with wood finishing products that have been around for a while, or at least have a reputation to protect. I think Enduro looks very promising, but for now I use Lacquer.


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## ctEaglesc (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...


The particualar add I read ALSO says it does not smell like a polish.
Since there are so many sticklers for corroboration around here I got this right off the suppliers site.
"
A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY... AND LASTS A LONG TIME
Excellent spread and indefinite shelf life make RENAISSANCE WAX economical and convenient, even for very large objects and infrequent use. A small dab goes a long way, unlike most waxes that need generous application. Use a minimal amount of RENAISSANCE WAX , rub lightly, and buff if a gloss is desired. The long-lasting preservation reduces the need for frequent maintenance. Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable, no caking or drying out; indefinite shelf life; no "polish smell;" no added fragrance to endanger material."

 hence my original remark.It Smells like Neva dull which is a brass cleaner polish.
The way I read it they are not inferring that a fragrance alters the product they are just saying it doesn't smell like a polish.


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## wdcav1952 (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by timdaleiden_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...


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## DCBluesman (May 24, 2005)

I know your question was not directed to me, William, but the product mentioned previously by Russ is Waterlox, which has been around since the 1930's.  In my (never humble) opinion, it is a remarkable finish.  It's primary ingredient is tung oil which has been used as a finish since the 14th century.  Waterlox is a slow build product which is easy to apply, but takes a long time to successfully complete.  If time were no object, it would be my finish of choice.


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## Thumbs (May 24, 2005)

Yeah?  Well, I'll expand my tests to include any and all available finishing products!  I am still waiting for those "FREE" samples, however!


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## DCBluesman (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Thumbs_
> <br />Yeah?  Well, I'll expand my tests to include any and all available finishing products!  I am still waiting for those "FREE" samples, however!


Go to William's and use his!  You can't get much more "FREE" than that! []


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## timdaleiden (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cteaglesc_
> <br />
> 
> 
> ...



 Having "no smell", as you orginally stated, is a lot different than having "no polish smell". If you would have been clearer about it originally, I would not have posted anything about it. 

  As far as it smelling like <b>Neva Dull</b>, I can find no such product. Did you mean <b>Never Dull</b>?????

  Maybe you should e-mail them and tell them you found a polish that smells like Ren Wax. Maybe they would change their product description. I have seen that happen before.


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## timdaleiden (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wdcav1952_
> [brTim,
> 
> My question about CA was motivated by curiosity alone.  I have tried to be good ever since Jeff gave himself death sentence authority!    [] [}] []  Thanks to Russ for his insight as to the longevity of CA.  Which lacquer to you use, Tim?  Also, I went totally brain dead.  What is the name of the really high-end lacquer that Russ has mentioned in the past?  It is the one that someone, Anthony I think, mentioned that it is prone to setting in the container.



 William, 

  Right now I am using Deft Spray. I have used the (brush on) liquid, as well as Watco Spray and liquid. Deft has a quick dry time, but it does take several weeks to completely cure. It can be safely handled within hours. I feel comfortable shipping them after a few days. I wasn't happy with the Watco gloss, as it just wasn't shiny enough for me. I am considering a few of the water borne finishes, but for now this works for me.


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## wdcav1952 (May 24, 2005)

Tim and Lou,

Thanks for the answers.  Waterlox was the name my OTD (Old Timers' Disease) prevented me from remembering.  I tried Deft spray, but I never seem to get a smooth finish with sprays.  I either go too light and get a pebble grain finish, or too heavy and get runs.  Tim, do you buff at all after using Deft?  When I tried it (dip, not spray) the finish was destroyed by buffing.  I guess I didn't let it harden enough.  Anyway, I'll stay with Enduro for now, and plan to use Waterlox for special projects.

BTW, Lou, don't give Bob (Thumbs) any ideas.  He does well on his own!  Just kidding Bob, anything I may have shared with you, you and your much better half have more than repaid.


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## timdaleiden (May 24, 2005)

William, 

  If you have mastered the Enduro, you might just want to stick with it for a while. It is designed as a wood finish. My understanding is that it is typically used to finish bar tops. This should provide the user with many years of use before it needs any buffing, or repair. 

  To answer your question, yes; I do sometimes buff the Deft. It has to be done very carefully. Normally, the final coat is left as is. Humidity and some other factors make the last coat hard to get perfect. If it isn't perfect, I sand and try again. I have found that my sanding steps are better done off the lathe. 

 I have never dipped because I have no idea how I can keep dust and debris out of the mix.


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## wdcav1952 (May 24, 2005)

Mastered Enduro?  I'm not sure about that, but my finishes are getting better as I work with it.  Don't tell Wayne, but I use old T shirt material instead of paper towel.  From the beginning, I have had better luck with the T shirt material, and use it for BLO, CA, Enduro, and whatever else.  Thanks for the advice, I likely will leave the Deft on the shelf WRT pen finishing.  I still want to play with Waterlox, maybe when I get some Irish bog oak to use.


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## PenWorks (May 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wdcav1952_
> <br />  Don't tell Wayne,



I allready did [}] Your in deep DOOO DOOO now []
How do you feel using the Waterlox? As to a lasting finish? I like using it, I put about 3 coats on and then do a light buff. Gives a nice natural look.


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## wdcav1952 (May 25, 2005)

Anthony,
Haven't used the Waterlox yet, still waiting for something really special before spending the money for Waterlox.


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## DCBluesman (May 25, 2005)

I've used Waterlox on a couple of personal-use pens, Tony.  I did 8 coats and still am not sure I shouldn't have done more.  Buffed on the 3rd wheel of the Beall (nothing on the wheel).  I took it to a high-gloss, then used MM12000 to take it back to satin.  These two look like diamonds.


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## HeatherA (May 25, 2005)

" Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable, no caking or drying out; indefinite shelf life."

Is there anything to do to fix renaissance wax if you did leave the lid off?  Hypothetically speaking of coarse.[]

Heather


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## ctEaglesc (May 25, 2005)

> _Originally posted by HeatherA_
> <br />" Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable, no caking or drying out; indefinite shelf life."
> 
> Is there anything to do to fix renaissance wax if you did leave the lid off?  Hypothetically speaking of coarse.[]
> ...


How long did you leave the lid off?
HAve you tried scraping off a little of the top layer?
If you think it is a total loss, experimentation may be in order.
Lou is the resident"chemist"( he won't admit to being a chemist but when I have asked him questions such as this his answers have been on the mark)
Any way getting back to your question.
The first time I opened a container of Ren"wax" I noted a distinct petrolium smell.
I would try a drop or two of mineral spirits,but that's just me.
I use butchers wax and the two smell similar.
I imagine there will probably be a lot of cautionary comments regarding my remark but I doubt very seriously there would be any adverse reactions such as blowing up your shop.
(procede at your own risk.)
Or you could just throw it out.[]


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## RussFairfield (May 25, 2005)

Renaissance Wax should smell like petroleum. It comes by it naturally. It is a microcrystalline wax, and that is found in either oil bearing sands or the sludge in the bottom of crude oil storage tanks. I have no idea which one is the source for Ren Wax, but either way, it is going to smell like what it is.


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## RussFairfield (May 25, 2005)

A suggestion on using Waterlox...

Soak the pen barrels in a container of the Waterlox for several hours to over night. Then remove them, and let them drip dry for a week. Buff with the Tripoli and White Diamond on Bealle or similar wheels, and you are done.

I use a gun cleaning brush to remove the finish from the inside of the tubes.


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## PenWorks (May 25, 2005)

Thanks Russ, that sounds easy enough. The only down side I have to using Waterlox, is that I have a hard time keeping it from gelling. I have tried the spray in the can as well.


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## DCBluesman (May 25, 2005)

Thanks for the tip, Russ!  And Tony, I transferred my Waterlox (and all of my other finishing supplies) to 4 ounce squeeze bottles.  For the ones I won't be using right away, I cover them with plastic wrap and screw on the cap.  So far I've had no problems with gelling.  BTW, I also put my homemade shellac and friction polish in these small containers.


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## alamocdc (May 25, 2005)

I know this is off the original topic, but since someone brought up the use of Waterlox, has any one tried other typical wood finishes on wood pens? What I'm really thinking of is one of my favorite finishes... a three part mixture of BLO, Tung Oil and Polyurethane. The only problem with this type of finish is it takes 4 to 10 coats, depending on the wood, and 24 hours between coats to get the kind of finish I like. Thus far I haven't had the patience to try it on a pen.


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## HeatherA (May 27, 2005)

I left it open for a couple of days I quess.  It shrunk to about half it's original size.  Good thing it was the tiny container.

Heather


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## wdcav1952 (May 27, 2005)

> _Originally posted by RussFairfield_
> <br />A suggestion on using Waterlox...
> 
> Soak the pen barrels in a container of the Waterlox for several hours to over night. Then remove them, and let them drip dry for a week. Buff with the Tripoli and White Diamond on Bealle or similar wheels, and you are done.
> ...



As always great ideas, Russ.  Have you ever considered adopting a 52 yr old apprentice? You spoke of using a gun cleaning brush to clean the inside of the tubes.  Has anyone come up with a list of the appropriate caliber or gauge brush to use on various kits?


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## Fred in NC (May 27, 2005)

I wonder if putting a bolt through the barrel, and nut in the other end,  will work.  This will give weight, and keep the finish from the inside of the tube.


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## JimGo (May 27, 2005)

That's an interesting idea, Fred.  BTW, LOVE the lighthouse pen pic!


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