# Drilling a blank with a lathe



## skamrath1 (Jul 9, 2012)

Ok I don't want to buy a pen vise right now plus I want to start making pens right NOW lol. I read ppl drilling blanks with a lathe. How is this done? Now please keep in mind I have never used a lathe in my life so might need to explain it as simply as possible lol


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## reiddog1 (Jul 9, 2012)

Try the video.  Hope this helps to clear it up a bit.

Dedicated Pen Blank Drilling Chuck at Penn State Industries

Dave


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## azamiryou (Jul 9, 2012)

Non-video answer: you need something to hold the drill bit securely at the tailstock (a jacob's chuck is typical) and something to hold the blank securely at the headstock (a collet chuck, pen blank drilling chuck, or scroll chuck with pen blank drilling jaws; the collet holds round blanks and the others hold square blanks; you can turn a square blank between centers to make it round).

Then you just let the lathe turn the blank while you use the tailstock to advance the drill into it.

Chucks are pricey. If you have a drill press already and are looking for a less expensive solution, you can make a blank holding jig from three boards and a hinge. Let me know if you're interested and I'll post a photo.


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## skamrath1 (Jul 9, 2012)

azamiryou said:


> Non-video answer: you need something to hold the drill bit securely at the tailstock (a jacob's chuck is typical) and something to hold the blank securely at the headstock (a collet chuck, pen blank drilling chuck, or scroll chuck with pen blank drilling jaws; the collet holds round blanks and the others hold square blanks; you can turn a square blank between centers to make it round).
> 
> Then you just let the lathe turn the blank while you use the tailstock to advance the drill into it.
> 
> Chucks are pricey. If you have a drill press already and are looking for a less expensive solution, you can make a blank holding jig from three boards and a hinge. Let me know if you're interested and I'll post a photo.



Less money spent means more spent on kits and blanks lol. If you don't mind please post pics of that jig. Thanks


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## azamiryou (Jul 9, 2012)

Luckily, I knew where it was! I haven't used it since I got a collet chuck and started doing all my drilling on the lathe.

Mine's a little bit fancy, I used 5 boards. 

You'll need to clamp it to the drill press table. You can hold it shut with your hand, or clamp it for extra security. The v-grooves allow it to hold round or square stock equally well. "Almost square" stock works, but I recommend squaring it up or rounding it first.

The most important thing when building it is to get those v-grooves perpendicular to the table. If I were building a new one, I'd make the v-grooves a little smaller. Small grooves will hold large blanks, but large grooves won't hold small blanks.


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## skamrath1 (Jul 9, 2012)

azamiryou said:


> Luckily, I knew where it was! I haven't used it since I got a collet chuck and started doing all my drilling on the lathe.
> 
> Mine's a little bit fancy, I used 5 boards.
> 
> ...




I am gonna attent this tomorrow. I just can't wait to start make pens! Thanks


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## Tom T (Jul 9, 2012)

Very nice vice.  I still use a drill press.  Drill very gently and bring your bit up to let the wood cutting fall off.  I find the holes are straighter that way.
I have been turning pens for three months or so no it is best fun ever.


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## Jim Burr (Jul 9, 2012)

A good set up cost $$ Scott. It can be simple or off the hook...but the more advanced you get, the bigger the bill! You'll more than likely need a chuck at some point so look at some threads and see what you think. I'll try to attach a pic on this thread in the morning of a chuck drilling set up since PFS is in full swing!! 
The most important thing...MHO only, is straight and cool. Technique is usually the key. See if you have some junk wood and have a lash at it! good luck!


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## pauly99 (Nov 19, 2012)

When advancing the drill bit, are you actually pushing on the tailstock or advancing/retracting the quill to do the drilling of the blank?


azamiryou said:


> Then you just let the lathe turn the blank while you use the tailstock to advance the drill into it.


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## D.Oliver (Nov 19, 2012)

pauly99 said:


> When advancing the drill bit, are you actually pushing on the tailstock or advancing/retracting the quill to do the drilling of the blank?


 

You're quill travel isn't enough to drill through a blank usually, so you will need to drill as far as you can then then retract the quill and reset the tail stock. Lock the tailstock down and continue drilling using you quill travel to progress your drill bit. Be sure to clears you chips every 1/4 to 1/2 inch or so.


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## ed4copies (Nov 19, 2012)

You CAN push the tailstock (and the drill bit) into the spinning blank.  HOWEVER, this method can lead to a hole that is not straight or "clean".

Lock the tailstock in position and crank the bit into the blank and you know the bit will not "wander".


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## pauly99 (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks for the responses. It makes sense now.
Lock the tailstock. Push the quill forward - pull the quill back.
Unlock the tailstock. Push the tailstock forward before drilling. 
Lock the tailstock. Push the quill forward - pull the quill back. 
Rinse and repeat.
Keep the hands on the chuck so that the chuck/drill bit/MT 2 taper doesn't go flying.


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## randyrls (Nov 19, 2012)

pauly99 said:


> T
> Keep the hands on the chuck so that the chuck/drill bit/MT 2 taper doesn't go flying.



Paul;     You can turn off the lathe before retracting the quill.


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## pauly99 (Nov 19, 2012)

Randy. That makes perfect sense... being even more careful.


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## pauly99 (Nov 19, 2012)

Followup: Just drilled my first blank with the lathe. Ran at 750 rpm. Maybe a dozen times for each cut blank going in and out. I could feel that the MT2/chuck drill wanted to come out and twist in my hand but I just held on to it and kept slight pressure to push it back in the tailstock.

I turned the lathe off after each 1/4 inch or slightly less of going into the blank. Unlocked the tailstock, brought back the quill, pushed it forward into the blank, locked the tailstock again, and turned the spindle. The only scary thing to me was the feeling that the chuck wanted to twist in my hand.


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## azamiryou (Nov 19, 2012)

Was it just the chuck, or the whole quill that was trying to spin? Usually there's some play in the quill. It's not a problem, but you can get rid of it by either pre-rotating it by hand until it stops, or by tightening the quill lock lever just a little - not all the way to locked, just so there's a tiny resistance as you crank it.

If it's actually the chuck trying to spin in the taper, then you want to fix that. Make sure the taper is clean, and ram it in there a little harder. Your hand is not there to hold the chuck in place, it's to a) counter the forces acting to move the chuck out of place and b) let you know as soon as the chuck starts to slip so you can stop the lathe before anything goes flying.


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## pauly99 (Nov 20, 2012)

Matthew, the chuck would have spun and it did once as I took my hand off the chuck and reached over to stop the lathe. The quill was coming out at the same time. Scary when the MT2 and chuck started coming out of the tailstock. On future drilling I just made sure to hold on to the chuck but like I said, it felt fairly strong that it wanted to turn in my hand. 

I'll take your recommendations to heart and make sure the MT2 is clean and seated as well as it can be.


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## Ulises Victoria (Nov 20, 2012)

I started doing my very first pens drilling on the lathe, as that is what I was shown in my penturning beginners video instructions. Then I thought that a drill press would be more accurate, so I bought a drill press. Now I am back to drilling on my lathe specially the larger holes. I can drill a 37/64 hole for an Emperor without starting with a smaller bit first. It's slower but more accurate. Now my drill press just sits there gathering dust. (Massive amounts of it :biggrin


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## TXTRNR (Nov 20, 2012)

If your having trouble with the drill chuck spinning make sure you are not backing the quill up to far. The tail stock quill is designed to release whatever is there as you back it out. On mine it starts disengaging somewhere around the last 3/4 in or so. Just keep that in mind. Good luck and let's see some pics soon. 

Chris


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## Boz (Nov 20, 2012)

I was never happy with the blanks that I drilled on the press.  Switched to doing it on the lathe and never looked back.  I am a bit of a tool junky.  I bought a collet chuck for round blanks and the one with extended jaws for square ones from PSI.  Started doing bullet pens recently when a neighbor gave me some used brass.  The only way to drill out the bullet tips is on the lathe.


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## pauly99 (Nov 20, 2012)

I picked up the jaws from PSI but the drill chuck/MT2 was from Harbor Freight. I've read about folks saying that their MT2 from Harbor Freight was sticking out too far from the tailstock and I believe that is the issue that I am having as well. As I wasn't familiar with lathes and the tools that go with them, I didn't have anything to compare what should/shouldn't look right. 

I don't own a drill press either and I'll be more than happy to drill the blanks on the lathe if/when I feels safe doing so.


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## walshjp17 (Nov 20, 2012)

If you are looking for a quality Jacob's chuck w/MT2 try Mike at  vmwoodworking1982(at)yahoo.com.  Solid device.


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## pauly99 (Nov 20, 2012)

Just sent Mike an email. Thanks!


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## Mike D (Nov 20, 2012)

If it's already been stated I apologize, but if your chuck is turning while advancing the quill then it may be an issue of not enough surface contact between the MT of the chuck and the MT of the quill. I use a Jacobs chuck in my tail stock all the time and do not have to hold it while drilling. You can check the MTs in both by first cleaning both the quill MT & chuck MT, then apply black erasable marker to the jacobs chuck, allow it to dry then install the chuck into the tail stock, attempt to drill a scrap piece of wood and allow the chuck to spin if it tries to. After a few revolutions remove the jacobs and look to see where the marker has been removed and if you see areas where the marker has been removed but undisturbed in other areas then you probably are not making full surface contact. Clean the marker from the quill MT and the jacobs chuck. Repeat the same process in the head stock. If it occurs in the same location on the jacobs chuck then it may be the jacobs MT is not correctly machined. When checking it in the head stock just push in the jacobs chuck and turn the head stock by hand while holding the jacobs chuck from turning. If it shows even contact then your tailstock MT may have issues.


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## panamag8or (Nov 20, 2012)

Boz said:


> I was never happy with the blanks that I drilled on the press.  Switched to doing it on the lathe and never looked back.  I am a bit of a tool junky.  I bought a collet chuck for round blanks and the one with extended jaws for square ones from PSI.  Started doing bullet pens recently when a neighbor gave me some used brass.  The only way to drill out the bullet tips is on the lathe.



I do the round ones in the PSI chuck, too... works fine, so far. <knocks on wood>


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## pauly99 (Nov 21, 2012)

Just ordered one. Mike was a great guy to talk to. Sounds like a precision tool that he is offering and I could have talked to him for an hour if I wasn't at work.



walshjp17 said:


> If you are looking for a quality Jacob's chuck w/MT2 try Mike at vmwoodworking1982(at)yahoo.com. Solid device.


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