# Solarez Finish



## TonyL

First attempt at using one of the Solarez (called Thin Hard).
 Still learn and still have trying more of their product line. 

I have more questions than answers and needs a few more under my belt to provide an initial evaluation. I have finished 3 so far. IMO The look of the finish is same as CA.

I will report more as I learn more. I believe others members are trying their products too. The company has dozens of options.  I am experimenting with the 20 second and under cure products.


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## KCW

That looks very nice!  I also purchased some of the Solarez, but have not had a chance to try it yet.


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## jttheclockman

Tony, how is the odor with this stuff??  Are there any other safety concerns??? How does it polish and feel??


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## keithncsu

So does it build up the same way as CA?  Before switching due to the respiratory issues with CA, I never could get the hang of the number of coats and how that affected the fit. All of mine kept ending up too proud. I got close before switching and really have no desire to try again.


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## liljohn1368

Where did you get it, Tony? I might try some of it myself...


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## farmer

*@0 seconds or less*



TonyL said:


> First attempt at using one of the Solarez (called Thin Hard).
> Still learn and still have trying more of their product line.
> 
> I have more questions than answers and needs a few more under my belt to provide an initial evaluation. I have finished 3 so far. IMO The look of the finish is same as CA.
> 
> I will report more as I learn more. I believe others members are trying their products too. The company has dozens of options.  I am experimenting with the 20 second and under cure products.



Different Solarez  then mine 
Using 35 watt light , but turning my pool cues for 15 minutes minimum to let the finish to flow out and get level or even .
Then turning the light on for 3 or 4 minutes  and rotate for 15minutes and back on with the light for 3 or 4 more minutes .

I will do that 3 or for Times 
Let the cue turn more for a hour maybe two total .

I am using Epoxy as a base coat and I am using a commercial buffing wheel and polishing creams  to polish out  the whole piece to a glass like finish .

I am not using Solarez because it dries fast,  I consider fast in 3 hrs or less .
I Use Solarez because it is clear and hard like glass but doesn't shatter .

Epoxy can take up to a week or so to fully harden up ..


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## zaqdesigns

Very nice!


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## TonyL

*Solarez. Attemptimg to answer as many questions as possible*



jttheclockman said:


> Tony, how is the odor with this stuff??  Are there any other safety concerns??? How does it polish and feel??


 

Reluctant to answer until I know which one I am going to stick with. I am experiment and awaiting two more of their products. Among the 3 that I tried:

Odor: very low according to my nose

Safety concerns: I am the last to advise any one about that. Plenty of info on their site assuming if it can be trusted; they do publish their MSDS (sp?).
Polishes excellent, feels warm and hard, but not brittle  or rubbery..still too early to tell. I have not had any cured around for more than a few days. 

Finish is high shine.

High build like medium to thick CA.

But remember, what I tried may not be what anyone else has tried. And I am experimenting with the application process and sharing my results with one of the owners/inventors.

I had to learn much about UC curing and oxygen inhibition...but not hard....I even understood it. 

I am not being evasive, I just don't want to mislead anyone. I am sure CA is not gong any where soon or ever.

If phone numbers are sent to me,  I wll contact after work hours. Happy to share my experience which is very little to date.


Farmer's experience trumps mine 100-fold (if not more), but as he said, he is using a different Wahoo/Solarez product.

SOLAREZ UV Resins | Quickly and durably repairs fiberglass, plastics, wood | Hardens in 3 minutes when exposed to uv sunlight

Direct, Amazon, Ebay...etc.


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## edstreet

good look on the pen there.


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## edstreet




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## TonyL

*My Solarez Update*

To date, I have tried, more than three or four barrels each, three of there products. Three are available now, one the founder made especially for me given my feedback on his other products (to him, not a product review). 

Of the products that are available to all now and that I tried, I like this one:

Fly Tying UV Curing Resin - Ultra Thin

It aint cheap, but  only need one or two coats per barrel - sand starting at 600 or 800 , even higher, and finish anyway you want.

It has the viscosity of thin to medium CA, cures in seconds..like 2, and very hard.No tacky finish to sand off.

The next one, and much less expensive one, that I tried is this:

Fly Tying UV Curing Resin - Thin Hard

Has the viscosity of medium CA, cures in 15 to 30 seconds, but leaves a very slightly tacky finish that you must sand off (600 grit or higher takes it off).  I needed 2 or 3 coats due to sanding off the tacky finish. If you want to build-up your finish, simply apply the next coat to the tacky coat. DO NOT SAND BETWEEN COATS AND DO NOT TOUCH THE TACKY COAT WHEN APPLYING MULTIPLE COATS. You only have to lightly sand the tackiness from the last coats. The coats will not look tacky; they will look high gloss. 

Among the products, I used, they all shined as much as CA if not more - no way to prove it scientifically...just looks that way to me.

I do not know when the product that he formulated "for me" will be available, but the others work well and I will use them up. A little goes a very long way. I think the learning curve is shorter than applying CA, and process was definitely shorter for me. I used the flashlight that they sell...I also bought the bulb that Ed posted, but  I like the light or the sun.

I applied coats with a new, clean, cheap, paint brush (disposable ones) and/or foam craft paper.

That is the extent of my knowledge and experience. Gary and Rick are top-notch. I have been on the phone and corresponding with Gary for a while - not hours, but more than minutes. I am sending him 2 pens to use or display with his product on it.

Also remember that the products that I tried, are not the ones that Ed and Farmer were referring to. Obviously, those products work too.  I just don't have any experience with them.

Oh yeah...what you don't use can be returned to the bottle as long as it is clean and uncured. 

I have completed about 10 barrels; I feel very comfortable with it, use less each time.

I hope this helps.


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## keithncsu

Ok maybe a rookie question but I'll ask anyway! If you turn down/sand to the exact bushing diameter, and then apply the two costs as you mentioned on the first product, is it so thick that you feel that buildup/edge when the pen is assembled?  That's the problem I ran into with CA before the respiratory issues made me change finishes. I could "catch my fingernail" at every blank and part connection. Did that happen with your experience? Or did you turn down a little more to account for it?  

Thanks for the review!!


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## TonyL

Good question. I used a brush and/or craft foam which absorb less than paper towels.  It took me a few tries before I was able to consistently observe how much product was actually building. I am still learning. Moreover, the Solarez appears to sit on top of the barrel instead on initially absorbing into it. It is one of those things I had to experience. 
I had to account for what the Solarez would add to the dimensions. I intentionally finish my pens by leaving the barrels "nail-catch" proud of the pen h/w. I just like them that way. It will require experimentation.  The Ultra Fly Tie (first one is the thinnest and most expensive).


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## Skewer

Thanks for sharing, Tony.  Interesting!


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## mark james

I've been following this - you are doing a nice job.


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## TonyL

Once I get a process down pat, I will publish it. I don't want to mislead folks.


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## adirondak5

Great thread Tony , very kind of you to share your results and experiences with this product . I placed an order with them today on their website , it took a total of 9 minutes from when order was placed to receive a shipping notification and tracking # . I'm impressed


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## TonyL

I just finish but did not buff out another Jr Gent. I used 4 and 5 coats this time. I will buff out tomorrow. Remember, what you don't use/expose to UV can be returned to the bottle. I will keep you updated.


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## adirondak5

I received my order from Solarez the other day and last night got around to testing it out . With Tony's permission I'll give you my impression so far , now remember I'm new to the pen turning game but I am a fairly experienced wood worker and usually use nitrocellulose lacquers on most of my other projects . The products I got from Solarez are Ultra Thin Bone Dry and the High Output UV Cure Flashlight . The Ultra Thin Bone Dry comes in a .5 0z bottle , the flashlight takes either 2 cr123 batteries or 1 rechargeable 18650  battery of which I had so I didn't need to purchase any batteries . The UV flashlight is a quality light similar to a Mag Lite , aluminum construction with o-rings . 
 I turned a stabilized maple blank down to round between centers and sanded it to 600 grit just for a quick test , I applied the solarez Ultra Thin to the blank with the attached applicator brush on the cap , I turned the lathe by hand for this . I would say the first coat was thin , but I made sure I had good coverage . I continued turning the lathe by hand for another minute or so so the Ultra Thin could level out , then I applied the UV light and after about 10 seconds it was cured hard . I then repeated application and UV light once more the same way . Next I sanded starting at 800 grit and going to 1500 grit , then Micro Mesh to 12000 , after that I buffed with a paper towel and novus 2 followed by a paper towel and 3M Finesse It II . Here are some Cell phone pics of results .













There was a slight odor from the Solarez but not unpleasant or over bearing , it sanded well and has a good shine . I think I will go with more than 2 coats on an actual pen barrel and buff it with a buffing wheel . It has a different feel to it , almost feels like holding a glass tube . 
 I didn't spend a lot of time with this little test , but I like the results , I am going to play around with it more and may try some of their other products . My initial impression is I like it . Sorry for the long winded report , hope it helps add to the knowledge base


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## keithncsu

Awesome!!! How thick was the buildup on your test?


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## adirondak5

keithncsu said:


> Awesome!!! How thick was the buildup on your test?



Keith , I only applied 2 thin coats , once sanded and buffed it did not seem very thick , I would say the  viscosity is similar to medium CA when I applied it , quick thought is its probably about the same if not slightly thinner finished than CA . It feels very durable once done , I'll do some drop tests later and ding it up too and see what happens .


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## keithncsu

Im just thinking in terms of final dimensions and the kit parts. Would you say 2 coats was enough?


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## adirondak5

keithncsu said:


> Im just thinking in terms of final dimensions and the kit parts. Would you say 2 coats was enough?



After only one test with this I don't think I could say for sure , it seems to be if it is a durable as I expect , but I would myself prefer to have 3 coats at this point , looking at it in person it seems thin , perhaps Tony can shed some light on thickness as he has more experience than I do . What I can say now is I think this is a viable finish , easy to apply and cure , easy to sand and buff ,  and seems pretty tough . I just don't have enough experience with it to state much more right now .


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## TonyL

I gauge the thickness the same way that I gauge medium CA. However, I use a non absorbent material when applying SR;  I use PTs with CA. Per 2 inch or so barrel, I put two drops of SR on craft foam, then hit with the light, then repeat that 3 or 4 more times.

If it's longer than 2 inches, I use 3 drops of SR. The key is to apply even coats, the CF makes is easier to distribute the product evenly and get it to the ends. I dry sand from 600 to 800 highly (no shiny spots) up through 2000 then the buffing wheels. I may, as Herb does, use less and go right to the buffers.

I have dropped a barrel several times from a height of 7 feet and couldn't find a scratch...yet it sands...I don't get it.

Still experimenting...CA isn't going anywhere soon.

Just like CA; I am sure there will be hundreds of ways to do this right.


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## TonyL

I would love to hear what anyone's experiences has been. Please post anything you want about UV or LED cured alternatives to CA. Let's share our experiences.


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## MikeL

I also have sinus issues with CA and was willing to give solarez a go when it was brought up by Tony. It was useful for me to read the solarez frequently asked questions on their web site and then I leaned on two you tube videos on application and cure. One video showed the application on a pool stick which I tried to copy. The other video was of an individual applying it to a table top. His cure method was to take the table into the sun for a few seconds, let the cure get activated for a few seconds, bring it back in the shade, back in the sun... I don't have a UV light so I also tried to copy the method in that video. I'm sure just using amUV light would be more convenient and cut down on time, but I don't have one. Perhaps using the high noon sun is a better cure anyway??  I do like the finish. It looks very similar to CA but it feels different. It's hard to explain but during the sanding phase it feels more flexible and the feel seems softer (not sure that makes sense but I don't know how else to explain). For a short period of time before the cure it does smell like polyester resin but I'll take the smell over the reaction I get from CA. 

I forgot to say, I did use sealer first. Put it on just like I do CA. Let it cure, sand to 400, then three coats of the other solarez in the picture. Finished just like I do CA. Sand to 800, then buff. 

Redwood burl on a sierra. 

Hope this helps some.


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## TonyL

The softer finish post-cure is just a little oxygen inhibition...you sand that off with 600 and above SP. Below that ..it is cured. You are also using a product that is not ideally suited for pens. I have the ones that are, including a special blend that is unbelievable but not  yet for sale.

I wll pm you my number. give me a buzz in 15 minutes if you can..I will be driving to a WW store. You can use what you bought and several on here do, and have great results, but according to Gary (Founder), it is not the best for pens, but it is less expensive.


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## MikeL

Just got your msg. I'm heading out also--big college game day!

What you say makes sense. I'll use up what I have and then maybe hold out for what is not on the market yet. Hopefully what I have is a durable finish.


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## VotTak

Tony, not that I want to push you into something. But... can you make a key ring and put it on your car-key? And just use it regular way. Would be nice to hear what do you thing in a month or so. Just to test durability of the finish.
I read that you were dropping it and there were no sign of something and I got that.
And one more thing... Can you try to put 1-2 layers of thin CA and than apply Solarez? Will it hold? Just a question for which it would be nice to have some answer. (I saw that it went fine on sealer though)


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## TonyL

Hi:  I don't understand the car key ring question, please rephrase. 
According to Gary, the inventor, it will bond to CA.

I  posted what i bought which is different from what others bought. I don't know if my answers apply to the other products, but if you call them, they will answer you on the spot.

 It is very durable. Scientifically, I could tell you how it compare to CA.


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## adirondak5

I did a little more with the Solarez Ultra Thine Bone Dry today , I did 4 coats on a stabilized cherry burl blank for a Bolt Action , no sanding between coats , I did cure each coat before going to the next . Like my other test I sanded to 1500 grit and then micro mesh to 12000 , then again Novus 2 and finally 3M Finesse It II . It came out pretty good , I feel more comfortable with 4 coats as it sands good I don't want any sand through . Here's a few pics









My maple test piece from yesterday , I took that and beat it aginst the corner of my maple topped work bench 3 times pretty hard , no cracks or scratches , its pretty tough stuff .


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## TonyL

*With the pics*

If you try to apply very even coats while rotating them slowly you can sand starting at 800 or higher and go right to the buffer or whatever your final step is. You will remove little and have a bump free finish. I will send some pics later (not that my finish is any better than yours).


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## VotTak

key-ring kit on your car key would go for durability test as you using them. But you already say that it is durable enough to compare to CA.
And thanks for answering that it will bond to CA.


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## TonyL

Aha..I get it. Yes, that would be a good test. As far as ultimate durability....it feels as durable, it initially behaved as durable, and one would think the intended use of Solarez would make it as durable. However, at least for me, the "jury is still out" on its long term durability. If I find it's not, I will report it. Remember,   I am only 3 weeks and 6 pens into this stuff and still experimenting with the process. I hope that make sense.


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## SteveG

Thanks for the observations. This finish seems to have a number of good things going!


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## adirondak5

TonyL said:


> If you try to apply very even coats while rotating them slowly you can sand starting at 800 or higher and go right to the buffer or whatever your final step is. You will remove little and have a bump free finish. I will send some pics later (not that my finish is any better than yours).



Tony , I did start with 800 grit with this second test on the cherry , then to 1000 , then to 1500 , before the micro mesh , I am thinking I could probably skip the micro mesh and go from the 1500 grit sanding to novus and Finesse it , today I put a 6" buffing wheel on the lathe and buffed it a bit with Menzerna fine compound , it did kick up the shine a bit . Then I assembled it .





I'll use this pen for a few weeks and see how it holds up but like I said before , so far I like this Ultra Thin Bone Dry , I'd like to try the secret formula they made up for you , maybe they'll have it on the market soon , if not I'll give them a call .


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## keithncsu

So I'm getting ready to bite the bullet on this stuff. I like the version that doesn't get tacky but that's an awfully small bottle for $15. Not sure how many pens that will do but that's steep. The other bottle is more cost effective per pen but requires more handing. Still weighing that out in my mind. 

I do have another question though. Their uv flashlight is $40. I can get one on amazon for $20. Is the solarez one better or specifically designed for their product or is a flashlight a flashlight like any other?


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## adirondak5

Yea , its not cheap by any means , but my impression is that small bottle will go a long ways . I got the Solarez UV fashlight but looking at some on Amazon that take the rechargeable 18650 battery , they appear to be very similar . For the price difference and Amazon's liberal return policy it's probably worth it to try , if it doesn't work for you send it back .


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## TonyL

All but one of the pens that I have shown have been with theit product called Thin Hard. It is less than the ultra thin. As fat as the light. I have theit flash light, a $10 black  lED FROM home depot and a b lack CFL bulb from HD. Their flash light works best. As long as the light you buy is the right wave length and in testy you will be fine. Sunlight is of course the best. You can call them, that are not afraid to tell you something that doesn't result  in a sale. As I wrote earlier , two or three drops per coat using a non absorbant applicator is plenty     but please experiment and share your process and results. Even the ultra thin was slightly tacky using the flashlight, but not the sun. Don't let the slight tackyness bother you. The final coat is the only one that you sand. And you lightly sand that right off. Pm your numbers and I can answer your questions, my typing stinks. 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## TonyL

And yes, no need for MM   I dry sand to 1500 or 2000 and go right to the white diamond or finer. I then hit it with a little plastic polish sometones. Meguiars 205, then Rejex or a non abrasive wax of your choice. This is just what I have found to work for me. 

Tomorrow I am calling ITW devcon   they also make a uv product called tru bond DC 200 and DC 1000 (refers to the cp/ viscosity)    however, it appears to be around the same price. I will let alkm know what I learn. The key is your ability to apply smooth  even coats.  Ok off to CrackerBarrell. We didn't have those in NYC. Lol 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## keithncsu

*First attempts*

Got around to trying the solarez tonight. The two spectraply blanks were the first attempts. I did them simultaneously on the same mandrel. They didn't turn out quite as high gloss as I'd hoped. Next up was the stabilized buckeye burl. Made some adjustments from the first go round and it was definitely an improvement. Overall a much better option, for me, over CA. Only three coats of the thin hard version and it did not really affect the final dimensions all that much. Also, the $15-$20 flashlight from Amazon seemed to work fine in case others want that option rather than the $40 solarez light.  Thanks to Tony for the initial R&D and help along the way!


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## jttheclockman

keithncsu said:


> Got around to trying the solarez tonight. The two spectraply blanks were the first attempts. I did them simultaneously on the same mandrel. They didn't turn out quite as high gloss as I'd hoped. Next up was the stabilized buckeye burl. Made some adjustments from the first go round and it was definitely an improvement. Overall a much better option, for me, over CA. Only three coats of the thin hard version and it did not really affect the final dimensions all that much. Also, the $15-$20 flashlight from Amazon seemed to work fine in case others want that option rather than the $40 solarez light.  Thanks to Tony for the initial R&D and help along the way!




Looks good Keith. Can you give us a little run down as to what product did you use??  How did you apply??  How many coats??? How do you think this stands up to a CA finish??  How about cost??  Is it that much higher cost??  Thanks.


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## keithncsu

I used the thin hard version that Solarez/Wahoo sells. Applied it with a piece of foam craft paper. 3 coats on each pen. Used a drop about the diameter of a green pea per coat. 

My attempts are not as high gloss as CA but I'm sure with more tweaking I can get closer. I prefer this to CA based on no fumes, not as much buildup in my opinion, and you have as much open time as you need since you control when it cures. 

I opted for the middle sized bottle for roughly $25 including shipping. It should last a good while. Not sure how more to quantify that or how it would compare to a standard bottle of CA.


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## TonyL

Thank you Keith. I just finished another one tonight. I will lightly sand and buff tomorrow - just too tired to finish now. You can easily get it to shine  to a very high gloss using a buffing wheel (or MM and some plastic polish). In the beginning, I was applying only 3 light coats and they were somewhat lumpy so I probably sanded most of it off creating a satin finish. 

Tonight, I tried 7 coats...no more than 3 drops per coat (on an Executive).
 When I cured the final coat, I wrapped it in Saran Wrap and hit it with the uv light again for a few seconds. This overcomes some of the oxygen inhibition that I wrote about and we discussed. The "key" for me is to apply smooth coats to reduces sanding (and removal of the layers).  I use the craft foam like a squee-gee but didn't apply much pressure and made sure I hit the ends. Just like every other finish I tried...it takes a little practice. I sold a bunch with the Solarez finish. I don't have a problem standing behind it. It i strong enough for surf boards and fishing lures; it should be fine. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. It will be my finish of choice for now.


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## TonyL

You can also expose the last coast to sunlight. 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## keithncsu

Yea after the three coats I hit it with some 600 grit to remove the tacky and shiny spots. Then I wet sanded through the 12000 MM. Then hit it with some of the meguires plastx. Finally got a feel on that last one and think I can make it better. Definitely a viable option to the pens plus for me. Just depends on the blank and look i want now.


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## TonyL

You may want to give 5 to 7 smooth coats of 3 drops each a try remember you can play around with it until you hit it with the uv light. You probably achieved a satin or near-gloss finish because of over sanding..otherwise it does furnish a high gloss finish. After your last coat, just leave it in the sun for minute. The tackiness is just on the very surface of the last coast (on the oxygen-Solarez interface). 

If I wasn't so lazy, I would make a video.


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## keithncsu

Made a few more attempts with Solarez with better success. Until tonight. Not sure what I'm doing wrong as the finishes still aren't high gloss. Pretty sure I'm doing something wrong in the sanding to remove the tacky finish. 

Tonight I tried to sand less just in case I was over sanding. After I sanding I wet sand with MM. Between each grit after wiping away the slurry, I could just see it immediately turn a matte finish. Did it all the way until the last few grits. Slight shine when done. A couple of coats of Plastx made it good and shiny but of course once the Plastx wears it dulls again.

Tony, what does your blank look like after sanding? Is it starting to turn white like an acrylic does? Do you sand until even a hint of tacky is gone? I left a very small tacky feel tonight thinking I was over sanding. 

If I can't get the hang I may try the ultra thin that advertises no tacky layer. Not as cost effective per pen though...


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## TonyL

Call me tomorrow. Yes, it is white when I sand it. And yes, it is slightly tacky, but don't touch it with your fingers until after the final coat. I just bought a new uv light that I am trying out. The issue is the oxygen inhibition. You will experience the same with the ultra thin. I have it. They all need sunlight or a lot of uv. If you cover with saran wrap between coats , just as an experiment, you will achieve non tack results. Also give Gary of wahoo a call. Maybe he will tell you something that he didnt tell me. In fact, I owe him a pen. 


Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## keithncsu

Definitely not touching until after I sand. Wondering if my uv light isn't as strong as I thought. Could be just not curing all the way? I do most of my turning at night so haven't been able to try real sunlight yet. I'll reserve final judgement until mother nature has a say haha!!!

Also based on your response I may not be sanding all the way. If yours is white I could probably stand to go a little longer. I usually stop right as I see it change to white. I'll try that as well.  I'll keep practicing for sure.


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## TonyL

I have found 5 plus heavy coats to work best using the craft foam. I just sand until any ripples are removed , just like I would C A   the key is to try to apply smooth ripple free coat to minimize sanding and product removal. U will find the sun to do a much better job. I will let you know how the new lamp works. 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## leehljp

TonyL said:


> I have found 5 plus heavy coats to work best using the craft foam. I just sand until any ripples are removed , just like I would C A   the key is to try to apply smooth ripple free coat to minimize sanding and product removal. U will find the sun to do a much better job. I will let you know how the new lamp works.



I have been keeping up with this thread and really like the promise that Solarez offers.



> "I just sand until any ripples are removed"



I have seen comments similar to yours from others on finishes lately, and am kinda puzzled. Whether there are ripples or not, my immediate action after final finish applications is to make sure it is round, and that is done by using a scraper (for me). Applying finish in building up coats is not a guarantee that it is "round". If there are ripples, sanding them does not necessarily get them round, but a minute' touch with a scraper will. 

This points to the fact that I do build up a finish to .003 or .004 over, touch with the scraper and then polish sand to size. But, again my point is sanding has not been the best way to get ripples "round", in my experience. However, I have seen reference to "sanding round" two or three times in the past few months.


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## TonyL

They are very thin ripples in the Solarez. The version of Solarez that I am using is like medium CA, but it behaves differently. It can be applied without incurring ripples by using very thin coats, but then the applicator catches on the rotating blank. This is all experimentation at this point. The scraper idea may be a way. Thanks.


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## Dalecamino

leehljp said:


> TonyL said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have found 5 plus heavy coats to work best using the craft foam. I just sand until any ripples are removed , just like I would C A   the key is to try to apply smooth ripple free coat to minimize sanding and product removal. U will find the sun to do a much better job. I will let you know how the new lamp works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been keeping up with this thread and really like the promise that Solarez offers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "I just sand until any ripples are removed"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I have seen comments similar to yours from others on finishes lately, and am kinda puzzled. Whether there are ripples or not, my immediate action after final finish applications is to make sure it is round, and that is done by using a scraper (for me). Applying finish in building up coats is not a guarantee that it is "round". If there are ripples, sanding them does not necessarily get them round, but a minute' touch with a scraper will.
> 
> This points to the fact that I do build up a finish to .003 or .004 over, touch with the scraper and then polish sand to size. But, again my point is sanding has not been the best way to get ripples "round", in my experience. However, I have seen reference to "sanding round" two or three times in the past few months.
Click to expand...

Excellent advice Hank. I have to confess, this has never even come to mind, since I've removed my tool rest to apply CA, then go straight to wet sanding. You just changed my way of thinking. :biggrin: Glad I caught this. Thanks!


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## TonyL

Thanks again Hank. I will give it a try. I have the right tools.....


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## KenV

Think negative rake or shear scraper for those miniscule shavings.   These are the scrapers with honed edges and small turned burrs.

Stewart Batty and John Jordan are where I learned.  Old tech back to days of turning ivory billard balls.

I use mag eyes, but those with better vision may not need it.


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## jttheclockman

You can remove ripples easily by sanding too. No reason you can not. Take a piece of sand paper and wrap around a solid wood block and approach the blank. When you get a dull look all around the  blank it has to be round unless you have a a lathe OOR problem. At least this is the way I see it. My opinion and I must keep stressing this point or else the PM's start coming.


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## TonyL

KenV said:


> Think negative rake or shear scraper for those miniscule shavings.   These are the scrapers with honed edges and small turned burrs.
> 
> Stewart Batty and John Jordan are where I learned.  Old tech back to days of turning ivory billard balls.
> 
> I use mag eyes, but those with better vision may not need it.


I bought the one that you recommended. It can circumcize a gnat. 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## TonyL

KenV said:


> Think negative rake or shear scraper for those miniscule shavings.   These are the scrapers with honed edges and small turned burrs.
> 
> Stewart Batty and John Jordan are where I learned.  Old tech back to days of turning ivory billard balls.
> 
> I use mag eyes, but those with better vision may not need it.


Where do I get the mag eyes please?


Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## KenV

TonyL said:


> KenV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Think negative rake or shear scraper for those miniscule shavings.   These are the scrapers with honed edges and small turned burrs.
> 
> Stewart Batty and John Jordan are where I learned.  Old tech back to days of turning ivory billard balls.
> 
> I use mag eyes, but those with better vision may not need it.
> 
> 
> 
> Where do I get the mag eyes please?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Wal-Mart or Amazon are good sources

Mag eyes (or mageyes) are light weight headband magnifing assistance with interchangable lens inserts for different magnifications.  Easy to wear and work with better face shields (or without).


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## TonyL

https://jet.com/product/detail/6a30...15&gclid=CPjw7dPQ1tACFdRtgQodTYQCgw&gclsrc=ds


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## TonyL

Keith call my cell. 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## BRobbins629

Will any of these versions self level on a slow speed turner, say at 5 rpm?


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## TonyL

They all self level on flat surfaces. And the thicker stuff self levels at 160 I haven't tried any slower. The issue is have to light wrap it with saran wrap so it cure hard without the oxygen inhibition. No matter how gently you apply the saran wrap, it spoils the leveling. 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## keithncsu

Hey Tony, sorry just got your message. Been at a show all day and just got home. I'll try to call you later if that's ok.


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## TonyL

No worries. And no need to ask when to call 

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk


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## BRobbins629

Just tried some thin hard building up over a snake skin at about 5 rpm. Seemed to work ok, but for me would probably prefer something a little lower in viscosity.  I let it rotate for quite a while hoping to get a little more level. Once it gets a little warmer I will get into the shop and sand it round. Shows a lot of promise for many of the things I want to try. Thanks for bringing to our attention.


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## stuckinohio

I've got to try this. Tony, are you still happy with it and has the formula made for you being mass produced yet?

Lewis


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## TonyL

Bruce and I are using this now and experimenting with different application processes. I am using their Thin Hard formula and find that two coats applied with craft foam or a disposable brush work very well. We have also experimented with CO2  and different lighting " systems"while applying the finish to perfect the cure. It is not needed but makes for a super hard finish. Without the CO2, I have to sand a little more, but can still achieve a CA-like finish. 

There are a handful of turners here that use a different Solarez product and report excellent results. I have not been able to achieve those results unless I use the process that I practice.

I just finished a pen with it on Thursday and mailed it to a fellow turner. It is a surprise, so I don't want to post the picture. He should receive it tomorrow.

_It is my opinion_, that if applied "right":
 - It is more durable that CA (this is just anecdotal...I have dropped a barrel from a height of 7 feet and did not scratch it).
 - Takes less time because only 2 or 3 coats or used with significant build-up and ostensibly less sanding - but must be applied right (not unlike a CA finish).
 - It takes on a high gloss shine, but must be buffed or whatever system you use, very well; it is very hard.
 - The cost is about the same as a decent quality CA when purchased in the 4 ounce size but you save on labor/time.
 - You don't have to worry about water - the product is hydrophobic.

I can publish what Bruce and I are doing now, but I am still trying different approaches and would prefer to wait. However, I would be delighted to tell anyone over the phone what I do. It is no secret and just don't want it memorialized in an email until I am 100% satisfied that it is the best approach that I can practice. If I had a GoPro...which maybe I will buy, I would show folks what I do and what I am trying to perfect..maybe I wll buy one today.

I have used 4 or 5 of their formulas, and I like their Thin Hard product in the 4 ounce size the best from cost/finish/application  perspective.

That's where I am..I really like the stuff. I have already given away half of my CA. I will still use CA, but starting to use it less often as a finish. I don't think Solarez will ever replace CA as a finish for the CA learning curve is shorter and it has a much longer proven track record. Just my 1/2 cent worth opinion.


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## leehljp

Tony, 

I went to the web site and noticed another product called Matte Finish Doming Resin. While it is "doming" resin, it can be thinned with warming in hot water. My thoughts on the Matte is that it could be a finish for those who want or would consider a finish for protection but do not like the gloss.

Matte finishes make it more "woody" looking while giving protection. I don't think the majority of pen makers would like this but it does seem to be a possible option for those that want protection for the wood, want it to look more wood like and not be glossy.

Have you tried the doming? And what drawbacks do you see? Is doming Solarez a viable finish, in your opinion?


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## TonyL

Thank you. I was told that by the owner/inventor that that would not be the right solution for me so I never tried it.


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## stuckinohio

Tony,

Thank you for the response. I will surely try some, but might not be in the near future. I'll be watching this thread too now that I'm subscribed.

Lewis


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## BRobbins629

*My experience with Solarez Resins*

A little over a month ago I made contact with Tony to get some info on his experience.  Since then, the best thing I can say is I have a new IAP friend.  Over the last 5 or 6 weeks we have talked, had video conferences, and attempted to collaborate on the best methods to apply and cure Solarez resins. While I don't think we're 100% there, I do believe we have come up with several techniques to create a high gloss, durable finish that when complete is at least equal to or even better than CA.  Here are some of my observations, many of which are duplicates of Tony's.

1) Solarez Ultra thin:  In terms of ease of use and quality of finish this would be my favorite.  I have applied this on a slow speed turner with the small application brush supplied, and used a UV flashlight to cure while spinning.  For most of the experiments I used 2 coats.  Following cure, the surface was hard, but required a little sanding to be smooth enough for a pen finish.  I used 220, 320 and 400 grit to smooth which left a matte surface.  I followed with a Beall buff using TripleE, white diamond, and carnuba wax.  The resulting surface was very hard and very high gloss.

There are 2 things about this coating that I didn't like.  One was that is it not self leveling.  With epoxy coatings on a slow speed turner, the epoxy will self level to the point that it is perfectly round.  Not this material.  The other is the cost and at this point only available in very small quantities (0.5 oz) for about $15.  If this was priced comparable to their other similar coatings, I would not go any further.

2) Solarez Thin Hard:  This is the material Tony and I spent the most time talking about.  It is available in larger quantities and less expensive and therefore worth the time to make it work.  It's downside is that the presence of oxygen on the surface inhibits the curing reaction.  We both proved this by taking a small coated section and covering it with plastic wrap prior to UV exposure.  After exposure and removing the wrap the underlying coating was very hard.  Without the plastic wrap the surface has a tacky or rubbery feel even though underneath where the coating is protected from oxygen it is hard.

Our focus went to providing an inert atmosphere at the surface, exploring gases such as nitrogen and CO2.  Not having ready access to either, and not wanting to invest a fortune in large scale equipment, we tried to develop a proof of concept with commonly used, low cost 16-20 gram CO2 cartridges.  These hold between 8 and 10 liters of gas which should be enough to encapsulate the blank for the minute (typically much less) of total UV exposure.

At first we tried just blowing some CO2 over the blank while exposing to UV and had limited success.  At least one trial gave a very hard surface and many yielded a surface that was still a little rubbery but much less tacky than in open air.  All of these when sanded and buffed as above still left a very hard high gloss surface.

Being a gadget geek, I tried to see if I could make a system that would both provide UV light while providing a stream of inert gas.  I made some nozzles from 1/4" threaded rod and mounted them along side some 395nm UV leds that i could mount over the blank.  I've only made a few trials with this and wish I had a larger gas source,  but It seems to work.  The surface is not quite as hard as the plastic wrap experiment, but certainly harder and less tacky than when done without the CO2.

Bottom line:  I'll probably be ordering more of both and can highly recommend if you want a high gloss surface.

Below are some picture of my experiments.




Nozzle machined from 1/4" threaded rod






LED bulbs hooked up and working; wired in parallel to 3.5V wall wart





Alternating LEDs and gas nozzles






Gas manifold attached to fixture





Fixture over blank


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## BRobbins629

Picture of fixture over blank:


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## mark james

BRobbins629 said:


> *Being a gadget geek*, I tried to see if I could make a system that would both provide UV light while providing a stream of inert gas.
> 
> A gadget geek... Surely you jest Bruce! :giggle:
> 
> Edit:  Kudos to both you and Tony!  Some great knowledge documented here, as well as a fun project.


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## 1080Wayne

Bruce and Tony

Is the thin hard version so thin that a vertical orientation while curing isn`t practical ? Much easier to CO 2 flush the O 2 away that way .


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## BRobbins629

1080Wayne said:


> Bruce and Tony
> 
> Is the thin hard version so thin that a vertical orientation while curing isn`t practical ? Much easier to CO 2 flush the O 2 away that way .



Just ran a quick test.  Its close.  If you can do it quickly you may be okay. Not real runny, but seeing drops at the bottom.

Why do you think its easier to flush vertically?  Any drawings?  Just curious.


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## TonyL

The Thin Hard will hold up (really down  ) vertically in time for a cure.
It is really not that thin..it is between medium and thick CA depending on the ambient temperature.  Even their more expensive Ultra Thin will stand up. Remember their product is used to repair surf board, so "thin" is relative. If you go to the Wahoo products site their MSDS posts the cp.


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## TonyL

*



Being a gadget geek, I tried to 
see if I could make a system that would both provide UV light while providing a 
stream of inert gas.
		
Click to expand...

*** 
Not being a gadget geek, I used 2 rubber bands to secure the CO2 cartridge and airline to the flash light. I will buy whatever you guys invent.


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## 1080Wayne

BRobbins629 said:


> 1080Wayne said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce and Tony
> 
> Is the thin hard version so thin that a vertical orientation while curing isn`t practical ? Much easier to CO 2 flush the O 2 away that way .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just ran a quick test.  Its close.  If you can do it quickly you may be okay. Not real runny, but seeing drops at the bottom.
> 
> Why do you think its easier to flush vertically?  Any drawings?  Just curious.
Click to expand...


I would try taking a CAB clear thin walled tube (the kind with a threaded metal cap) , glue a wooden 60 degree center to the bottom and a similar one to the cap leaving the appropriate distance between them for the pen barrel , hold the tube vertical , flush out the air with CO 2 and keep it vertical , apply Solarez finish to the barrel , insert it into the tube , screw on the cap , and apply UV .


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## manik

Maybe use your stabilizing resin tanks and get a chunk of dry ice from the store. It will sublimate and push all the oxygen out. 

If you dont want to use the ice than maybe just squirt the CO2 gas into the tank?

Could mount the leds on the side and just put the blank in vertical on a stick and rotate.

Could also use a small fish tank from Goodwill if you don't have a resin tank.


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## stuckinohio

Wow, that is some gadgetry!


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## edstreet

I still say all of it is unnecessary.


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## TonyL

As I reported in my earlier post, some (and Ed is at least one) have reported the same results without all the extra steps. I tried several times, but couldn't get it to where they reported getting it.

Ed, please share your approach...maybe others will have the same experience. I wish I can.

Thank you,

Tony


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## BRobbins629

edstreet said:


> I still say all of it is unnecessary.


 If you read my post carefully, I did say that the underlying surface is hard, so yes you can get results without the inert atmosphere.  We're just having fun trying to make it better.  I do have a much simpler version as well.


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## mhall

What happens if you are able to get a coated pen out into the sunshine?  Does the tackiness and other problems go away, or is the UV flashlight and the sun one in the same as far as allowing a cure?  Also, was there ever a formula put together that pen turners could use?


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## TonyL

The sun works (biggest UV flashing in the sky  ). That is how I first started using it. Gary, the inventor, and I discussed  formula for pen finishing. He made me some that uses a different curing process - but not for sale yet. However, I want to use, and do use) the formulas that are available now.  I would encourage you to call him. We wrote each other a dozen or so times and I spoke to for hours over several conversations.  Several members here state that they don't have to go through what I do. I can't do it their way and achieve a crystal-clear finish.


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## mhall

So, by using the sun instead of the UV lights, you can achieve better success and maybe eliminate the problems that occur when using the UV lights?


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## CDone

I know I'm chiming in on this at a late stage but I have a lot of experience with different UV cures from fly tying/rod building use. I've always been able to eliminate the tackiness with a quick wipe of alcohol, not sure if this works with the Solarez product or not.

Although I'm not turning pens at the moment, most of my turning is flyrod reelseats, and I've borrowed a lot of techniques from you guys here. Thanks!! I'm interested in seeing how well the Solarez works and whether I can use it in my application'

Also wondering if anyone else has experienced an 'after taste' when using this product? I like to enjoy a cold beer or a nice scotch when tying flies and found that using UV cured epoxy really effects the taste of my beverage.

Cheers
Colin


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## TonyL

One or two posts (on the Solarez blogs and forums) do recommend wiping-off with alcohol...but* I* can't get it to where the finish is as crystal clear and hard as when it cures absent the presence of oxygen. Others can, and I am looking forward to that demo on they come by my house in early April. I am sure I will learn much from better minds and more skilled hands (than mine).


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## showfire

So I know I am chiming in a couple years after all of this but did anyone try an argon blanket in a half tube around the resin? You wouldn’t have to keep running gas around the resin. Argon would be available at Home Depot for arc welders. 
Also, awesome led design for curing. 
Tony- did your special mix ever hit the market? I would love to try some if it has.
I am a photochemist, so if I can help/answer questions I would be happy to.


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## TonyL

showfire said:


> So I know I am chiming in a couple years after all of this but did anyone try an argon blanket in a half tube around the resin? You wouldn’t have to keep running gas around the resin. Argon would be available at Home Depot for arc welders.
> Also, awesome led design for curing.
> Tony- did your special mix ever hit the market? I would love to try some if it has.
> I am a photochemist, so if I can help/answer questions I would be happy to.


Just seeing this now. Sorry. We tried CO2 and that worked but hard to get a make semi closed environment that allows for blank rotation (I tried several times, but I am no engineer). 

I don't know if it went to market...still suffers from oxygen inhibition when applied in thin coats.

I do not use it as a finish any more (but would love to).

I do use it to make repairs, fill holes etc. I just used it on a Cholla blank two nights ago. I will send you my number. Call any time.

The Alumi  product is supposed to be good: https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1027-Alumi-UV.aspx

There's at least one very talented member who has used it on spheres.

Please call and I will take you through our experiments.


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