# SS without a metal lathe?



## DurocShark (Jun 6, 2009)

I thought I'd try some stainless steel and see what turning it is like. I have some cheap carbide tools, rigged up a holder from steel tube, and immediately proceeded to chip the carbide. Resharpened and tried again, same results. I thought I'd check in before I hurt myself. :redface:

Way back in high school we had a metalshop with several metal lathes. I vaguely remember the angles for the bit (was able to "remember" from a few websites) and the centerline placement of the tool. I *think* I stuck to that, but handheld makes it difficult.

Am I nuts for trying this on a wood lathe? Or do I just need to practice my technique?


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## johnnycnc (Jun 6, 2009)

Keep plugging away, you'll get it sooner or later.:bye:


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## DurocShark (Jun 6, 2009)

Ok. I didn't want to keep going if it was a futile effort. Thanks.

I did decide to practice on some aluminum though. heh.


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## johnnycnc (Jun 6, 2009)

I think you could eventually get the stainless, but it would really be frustrating
the way you describe.and a very long process.
aluminum is a nice treat, though! you should have no problems with that.


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## Mac (Jun 6, 2009)

I have a cross vise like  milling machines use. I bought it at hf. I mount it on my lathe bed when I need to turn metal,seems to work fine.


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## skiprat (Jun 6, 2009)

Don, I love working with stainless and although I have a metal lathe, I still often use my wood lathe. Curves, whether concave or convex are really easy to do with a decent set of files. I know that die-hard purists frown on this and insist on using the 'correct' tool and learning the traditional techniques. My arguement is that I'm not trying to learn how to be a machinist, so why can't I 'cheat' and use whatever tool works for me? 
You can be very creative and 'turn' with confidence when using files. 
If you still want to use a single point tool, then I'd suggest using HSS. Easily sharpened to any angle you want. 
I have also found that the best results for turning SS on my metal lathe is from slightly 'aggressive' cuts. Rigidity is really important and I think that it would be very streneuos  to maintain a single point hand tool in the correct position and for the experience to still be enjoyable.

Another aspect to remember is safety. If you get to the stage where you can turn stainless by hand to get ribbons, then be advised that these are about ten times sharper than razor blades and very hot. Gloves are NOT a good idea if you are turning metal.

If it is the finished product that you want to be proud of and not the process, then there is nothing to be embarassed about to say you turned it with a file. Hey, we all finish with sandpaper don't we? That's just a flexible file:biggrin:


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## DozerMite (Jun 6, 2009)

What type of file do you suggest? I was told by a machinest, that a mill file is best. Your thoughts??


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## skiprat (Jun 7, 2009)

Mill files are fine. Get a couple of different shapes of each coarseness. I find the most useful file is a flat one where one of the edges has no teeth.

The only safety thing when using files on a lathe is to use it left handed. Left hand on the handle, right hand on the end. Or both hands on the handle.
This just makes sure that your left arm isn't over the chuck.:wink:

I keep my files clean with a stiff wire brush. Most people swear by using chalk to stop it clogging, but I can't touch chalk. Just thinking and typing 'chalk' sends chivers down my spine and goosebumbs on my arms:biggrin:


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## workinforwood (Jun 7, 2009)

If you can't wear gloves, then you do it bare handed Steve?  I know from doing plumbing that a drop of solder lands on your hand it instantly melts to the bone.  With filing...do you put some lube on the files?  Do you spin it fast or slow?   I'm not about to spin some SS, but these are important questions I think..and I sure don't know the answers.


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## skiprat (Jun 7, 2009)

Jeff, you shouldn't wear gloves near a metal lathe simply because the material swarf is more likely to grab the glove and pull your whole hand in. The temptation is very strong to clear the swarf while the machine is running. Just like we do when turning plastic or wood. The problem is that metal ribbons don't just break up when you grab them. When you've finished turning and the machine is off, then you should use gloves to clean the machine.:wink:

The filing method doesn't create ribbons and the filings are not particularly hot.  I normally run the lathe at about 500 or less. I reckon any faster just creates excess heat with no gain in cutting speed. I don't lube with a file. Only when sanding.:wink:


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## greeneyedblackcat (Jun 9, 2009)

Stainless on a wood lathe is tough. I agree with skip filing would be your best bet. When it comes to stainless no matter which type of lathe you use the rule is Low and Slow (low rpm's slow feed rate). The grade of stainless also will make a huge difference in how it machines. 303 stainless alloy will probably be the best grade on the wood lathe. Or you could come over to the "Dark side" with us metal lathe guys by the addition of a nice metal lathe in your shop


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## Woodie49 (Jun 9, 2009)

Greeneyedbalckcat
 What would be a good 7x14 metal lathe (  For the money)
 Thanks


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## greeneyedblackcat (Jun 9, 2009)

Woodie49 said:


> Greeneyedbalckcat
> What would be a good 7x14 metal lathe ( For the money)
> Thanks


 
Almost all of the 7X lathes are made in the same factory in china. I personally am not a big fan of small Asian metal lathes although they do provide an economical entry into metal turning. Old USA lathes are more my speed, if you can find an old US built lathe in decent shape I think that would be a better choice The Key words are "decent shape". If you search there are deals out there on craigslist. A small Atlas or South bend with a quick change gearbox would be my choice for a first metal lathe. Both of my metal lathes are old iron South bend's and I swear by them. Also there are many parts still available on eBay. I had to look a while to get ones that were not beat to death but for me this was the best route. There are many opinions out there so don't take mine as the gospel, this is just what works for me.


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## PTJeff (Jun 10, 2009)

Woodie49 said:


> What would be a good 7x14 metal lathe (  For the money)



If you have to get the asian lathe, i would suggest the 9x20.  you can cut threads with that one and there is a pretty good knowledge base to learn from.

DurocShark: didn't mean to hijack thread, sorry


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## DurocShark (Jun 10, 2009)

I don't mind at all. The lathes we used in high school were post-war lathes, with 30" pulleys (big leather belts) and 4ft beds. Needless to say, that information is pretty much useless for anything I could do now.

I played a bit with aluminum. Learned a lot just making this one little thing:








(No comments about my fat fingers... heehee)


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## cnirenberg (Jun 10, 2009)

Don,
It looks ood. Great picture as usual.  Just to chime in, I made a threaded chuck out of a 12mm SS bolt.  My hands were done after threading it by hand.  Now I know why there are metal lathes.  I ended up using files if that helps any.


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## DurocShark (Jun 10, 2009)

The mistake (biggest of many) was not using the lathe to make the ball. For some reason I had it in my head I needed to use the Dremel to shape the ball. That's why there's gouges and such where I cut a bit too deep. 

I'll try again, doing everything on the lathe except for the baseball's "stitches".


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## j.d.sackett (Jun 10, 2009)

Woodie49 said:


> Greeneyedbalckcat
> What would be a good 7x14 metal lathe ( For the money)
> Thanks


 
all of em are about the same. i got one from toolsnow. best bang for the buck. comes with more extras than any of the rest. for turning pen sized stuff, they work ok. just remember, they are a small lathe, but will cut threads and are variable speed. i have 2 other metal lathes and i still use the little one for a lot of stuff. NEVER wear gloves when messing around with metal. lathe or milling machine. regards, j.d.


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## daveeisler (Jun 20, 2009)

Skiprat, man you are awesome, here I thank you and there I thank you.

Go Eagles, not the Philly Eagles either.


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## DurocShark (Jun 22, 2009)

I posted over in SOYP, but here's my first attempt at a completely aluminum barrel Pentel. Not selling quality, but a great learning experience. Plus, it's pretty awesome to write with.


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## cnirenberg (Jun 23, 2009)

Don,
I think it is one great looking pen.  I'm still on the fence as far a finishes go. I like the "brushed" look and have started to give it a foil look by dimpling the barrel.  It seems easier than dealing with every scratch, but I suppose you could powdercoat to protect as well.


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## Ligget (Jun 23, 2009)

Cool looking pen my friend, first of many metal ones I bet!


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## On Edge (Jul 17, 2009)

I've turned quite a few items using free machining naval brass using conventional turning gouges. I did however find that the single most important element was keeping the tool really sharp so rather than grinding away a 50 dollar gouge I made a homemade "skewchigouge" which I ground from a piece of 3/8" HSS drill rod which I believe is around a Rockwell 62 C hardness.
With it I can pretty reliably cut a continuous extremely thin ribbon until the tool looses it's edge then it's quite easy to start chattering.

I believe to try and step up to Stainless would be out of the question. However with patience and some mill files I believe you could get there.

Another method would be to use the the blue belts used to 'grind' on a belt sander. I don't recall the name of these belts but you can find the description at Le Valley and Veritas. This is how I keep my tools sharp.

CHScholl


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## ldb2000 (Jul 17, 2009)

cnirenberg said:


> Don,
> I think it is one great looking pen. I'm still on the fence as far a finishes go. I like the "brushed" look and have started to give it a foil look by dimpling the barrel. It seems easier than dealing with every scratch, but I suppose you could powdercoat to protect as well.


 
Yes it can be powder coated but I can tell you it won't last very long . Polished aluminum or brass won't take any kind of finish well . For a finish to work right it has to have something to adhere to and polished metals are too slick for any finish to bite into . Powder coat will last the longest but the first chip will break the envelope of finish and the coating will start to peel from the chip outwards .
The best finish for a polished metal pen is "No finish at all" , just clean and polish when needed with a good metal polish .


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## MHKogan (Jul 28, 2009)

We manufacture a composite Stainless Steel blank that turns on a wood lathe with standard wood turning tools.  The material is called M3 (macromolecular metal) and you can learn about it here on the forum or on our website www.MetalPenBlanks.com .  We also make a variety of other metals as well as an M3 version of Damascus and Mokume.


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## programmergeek (Aug 4, 2009)

Maybe I can help a bit.  Carbide is very hard and brittle stanless is hardish.  unless that bit is supported and cutting at the right angle it will chip, that edge needs support under it at the right angle.  YOU can't do this by hand.  We can get away on wood and alumin because it is so soft but SS is a different animal you will never be able to control it and get it smooth.  There is also different types of carbide I think for stainless you use a non tin coated. 

I second the 9x20 metal lathe needs a little modification to be realy good but the price is right.  i have the Jet model, but htey are all the same just price shop.  I wouldn't want anything smaller.


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