# Gorilla Glue



## bonefish (Sep 2, 2006)

The other day, I glued up some blanks with Gorilla Glue. I don't do liquids very good and I had more on me than on the blanks.

One of the blanks was covered with it, and the next day after it dried, the blank had a wrinkled and rough finish on it, from where the glue dripped, but it was kind of shiny.

The coating looked like it might be usefull for finishing pens. I turned a blank round and sanded it very smooth, then carefully applied a thick coat of Gorilla Glue.

Next day, I turned it smooth, then sanded it and polished it, the same way I do a CA finish, except I only used the one coat. 

It turned out to look about like a good CA finish. This one thick coat filled the grain, and it appears to be plenty hard, although I don't have a way to check for hardness.

Although it was rough looking when it dried, with runs all over it, it finished up easily by taking a few very light cuts, and when it was smooth, sanding and polishing.

Has anyone else ever tried finishing with Gorilla Glue?

I think it would make a durable finish, because the stuff is so hard to remove after it sets up.

Bonefish


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## BRobbins629 (Sep 2, 2006)

Robert - grerat idea.  What you have done is put a polyurethane finish on a pen.  If you look the material safety data sheet (MSDS) for Gorilla glue, you will find out that is is mostly polyurethane - a great and durable finish for many things.  Just one more thing on my never ending list of things to try.


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## ctEaglesc (Sep 2, 2006)

It isn't clear


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## Penmonkey (Sep 2, 2006)

I did it on this mapel and axis bowl about one year ago and it's still as good as new. I sometimes use it on woods like maple or any type of end grain. You can get the same finish with midwax polyurethane, but your method is much easier and you get pretty much the same results.

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## redfishsc (Sep 3, 2006)

There are better polyurethane glues out there to try this with. 

The first one I'd recommend is Vise-Tite, which is REALLY hard to find here locally. I haven't looked on the net for it.... well... yet. It foams a good bit less than gorilla snot. 


You can also find non-foaming (or nearly non-foaming) polyurethane glues. 

Poly glue is tough and durable because it is a reactive glue. It reacts with moisture and oxygen, and the molecules crosslink together forming a very tough bond. 


BTW, NEVER EVER TRY TO THIN POLY GLUE WITH DNA! I wanted some thinner poly glue and tried to thin it with several solvents. Only DNA seemed to mix well with it.... until five minutes later and the 1/4 cup of glue I had thinned had overflowed in a HOT, bubbly, volcanic barf. Needless to say, I went to using medium CA for my project (gluing small dowels in holes on a pen display I made).


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## bonefish (Sep 3, 2006)

When I put the glue on the blank, and it didn't foam like it does when glueing tubes. It just set up to an almost clear, wavy finish, with plenty of thickness to be able to turn the blank smooth and polish.

Next time I try it, I'm going to mike the blank before and after, to find out much buld up this stuff gives.

What I like most about it is that it fills the grain with one thick coat, making the surface glassy smooth after sanding. Actually, the only way to put is on is with one thick coat.

Well, I guess you could apply it and wipe it off to get a thin coat.

Bonefish


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