# CLICK MECHANISM an inside view



## johncrane

Looking into and comparing some of the different click kit mechanisms we use.
No1 and No2 are the same click mech, i have put the long click mech into an 8mm the only difference is long click has a aluminium tube and 8mm has a black plastic tube to hold the refill
No3 and No5 are the same click mech, only difference between the two is Manhattan has a spring in the cap and Sienna doesn't, No4's click mechanism plastic bits are a little bit different it also has the cap spring which keeps pressure on the click button,
 No6 Vertex and No7 Sierra have the same soft click plastic mechanism which will work in either housing, i will up date with more later.:wink:


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## Glenn McCullough

The long click is the only mech I have had success with long term. Vertex the worst hands down.


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## johncrane

Thanks Glenn, the long click button was the hardest one to remove out of all these kits, i put the click unit into a collet chuck to hold it the wrapped the clicker with plastic tape and used soft grips to remove it.


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## Jim15

Thanks John.


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## fernhills

Filed in the loose leaf binder in my head. Thanks John, one time, sooner or later we will have to refer to that info.. Carl


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## HamTurns

Thanks a lot John - 

I printed it out and put it in my three ring binder of pen info.

Happy turning
Tom


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## walshjp17

Great info, John.  Thanks.  Clipped it to my Evernote Pen Turning folder.


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## John Den

I needed this 2 days ago when I struggled with a Gatsby kit that was different from a Uk supplier and came with no instructions.
It was a ringer of No 4 (Le Roy click).
How i struggled to get the springs and plastic bits in the right order so they worked.
Regards and thanks,
John


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## Katsin

I made a Rhodium Gatsby clicker recently for a customer of mine and it turned out to have a bit of a rattle in it. From what I read on the forums that is pretty common for the click pens.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to reduce the rattle? I have seen one suggestion of stretching the spring a bit that lives right under the clicker button. Has anyone else tried this or have other suggestions?


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## ed4copies

fernhills said:


> Filed in the loose leaf binder in my head. Thanks John, one time, sooner or later we will have to refer to that info.. Carl



Beware Carl!!!  Over time the "loose leaves" will fall into mental oblivion.:biggrin::biggrin:


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## Parshooter11

Super info!! The picture, as they say, says a thousand words!!


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## fernhills

ed4copies said:


> fernhills said:
> 
> 
> 
> Filed in the loose leaf binder in my head. Thanks John, one time, sooner or later we will have to refer to that info.. Carl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beware Carl!!!  Over time the "loose leaves" will fall into mental oblivion.:biggrin::biggrin:
Click to expand...

 hmmm


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## johncrane

To get a better view on the photo,double click on the photo!
Katsin if the pen rattles it writing position i would stretch the refill spring a bit.


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## Ligget

This is really helpful John, thanks for sharing!


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## johncrane

johncrane said:


> Looking into and comparing some of the different click kit mechanisms we use.
> No1 and No2 are the same click mech, i have put the long click mech into an 8mm the only difference is long click has a aluminium tube and 8mm has a black plastic tube to hold the refill
> No3 and No5 are the same click mech, only difference between the two is Manhattan has a spring in the cap and Sienna doesn't, No4's click mechanism plastic bits are a little bit different it also has the cap spring which keeps pressure on the click button,
> No6 Vertex and No7 Sierra have the same soft click plastic mechanism which will work in either housing, i will up date with more later.:wink:



More photos close up and an easy tool to make to remove cap bush.:biggrin:


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## Smitty37

John Den said:


> I needed this 2 days ago when I struggled with a *Gatsby kit that was different from a Uk supplier and came with no instructions.
> It was a ringer of No 4 (Le Roy click).*
> How i struggled to get the springs and plastic bits in the right order so they worked.
> Regards and thanks,
> John


There is a Gatsby Click made by Rizheng that is the same as the Le Roi Click.  It has a different band....same mechanism.


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## johncrane

LeRoy your bands are much nicer,also you would probably freak out if you seen what i've done with one of your click kits.


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## John Den

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *John Den*
> 
> 
> _I needed this 2 days ago when I struggled with a *Gatsby kit that was different from a Uk supplier and came with no instructions.
> It was a ringer of No 4 (Le Roy click).*
> How i struggled to get the springs and plastic bits in the right order so they worked.
> Regards and thanks,
> John_
> 
> _Smitty 37_:-
> There is a Gatsby Click made by Rizheng that is the same as the Le Roi Click.  It has a different band....same mechanism.


Many thanks for this info.
Regards,
John


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## John Den

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johncrane*
> 
> 
> _Looking into and comparing some of the different click kit mechanisms we use.
> No1 and No2 are the same click mech, i have put the long click mech into  an 8mm the only difference is long click has a aluminium tube and 8mm  has a black plastic tube to hold the refill
> No3 and No5 are the same click mech, only difference between the two is  Manhattan has a spring in the cap and Sienna doesn't, No4's click  mechanism plastic bits are a little bit different it also has the cap  spring which keeps pressure on the click button,
> No6 Vertex and No7 Sierra have the same soft click plastic mechanism  which will work in either housing, i will up date with more later.:wink:_
> 
> More photos close up and an easy tool to make to remove cap bush.:biggrin:


John/
These pictures of yours are priceless.
I've combined them all into a single pdf file so I don't lose any of them!!
You really ought to put them into the library.
Kind regards and thanks,
John


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## wouldentu2?

The Vertex has a sweet operating mechanism but if it falls on the floor horizontal the click end breaks because the  metal push end is heavier and breaks the thin plastic internal mechanism.


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## johncrane

Close up look into click mechanisms,Next Lot of photos will be How to take them
Apart
1)Sierra new soft click
2)Vertex soft click
3)Elegant Beauty click


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## edstreet

Ahh yes, I do like the style in which this was laid out however it is more of the white plastic junk that fills the kit pens like a cancer growth.  I have used many of them in the earlier days but after a point I said never again.


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## Smitty37

*Click Mechansism*

Actually the, better plastic mechanisms will work as well or better and last as long or longer than metal.  I have one on my desk that is intentionally over worked being operated as much as 500 times in a day - I've had it for about a year and it has more than 25000 operations on it still works perfectly every time. 

Using the right plastic (similar to Teflon) and proper fit the sliding of the parts creates so little friction there is virtually no wear on the plastic, it will never bind so there is almost no chance of ever breaking it.  Failures I've had reported to me have been due to installation or attempting to remove the mechanism after it was installed.


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## rogerwaskow

Not having made all of them I found that number 2 often got stuck and did not click properly. Have they been improved from about 8 months ago?


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## Smitty37

Well send me a picture.....


johncrane said:


> LeRoy your bands are much nicer,also you would probably freak out if you seen what i've done with one of your click kits.


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## johncrane

Hi Roger i'm not sure if you're referring to my 1st post or last post either way those kits haven't changed my 1st post No/2 Long click is the same parts as 8mm click which has been around for a very long time.if you're referring to my Last post N/o 2 is Vertex it is a later click kit maybe 2 years old it hasn't changed,You say you're click often got stuck, some of the drama's are caused by trimming the blank too short if this is the case the clicker will not work properly the refill will catch on the end of the nib when it tries to go back,check the refill on some refills there is a tiny lip just below tip this will catch on the nib if blank is too short,Next check the clicker with the nib section removed hold the refill in one hand and push the clicker with the other hand if it clicks ok, Check out the nib section while it's apart, check the spring an refill is not binding in the nib section,Check the spring is on the right way small end goes on the refill,big end goes in the nib (don't worry if it's the same size) ,Next is the refill binding or catching in the grip section when its returning,(wear marks on the refill are tell tale signs) make sure it's clear, you can use a small half moon shape file to clear inside the grip /nib section, you could try stretching the spring a tiny bit this firms up the return motion,not having it in front of of me it's hard to say, anyway back to my 1st comment it is very important NOT to trim down into the brass to far when squaring the blank just a hair,Also i don't know everything i'm just trying to help,i also think if we make a pen we should be able to fix them :wink:ie if the clicker is faulty send it back or let them know what's going on.i hope this helps you.:biggrin:


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## Bean_Counter

John on the elegant Sierra clicker the white and black plastic sleeves are those supposed to slide over each other? Or are they fixed? It seems when I push the plunger down there isn't enough length to engage the refill through the nib? I checked all my kits and wondering if this is how they are supposed to be. I'm driving myself nuts


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## flyitfast

John, thank you for all your patience in detailing this info. The photos really clear this up.
"Clickers" have been a topic of discussion at our last couple of chapter meetings. I'll be sharing your descriptions and pictures at the next meeting. Thank you for your help.
This is what makes this site what it is!!
gordon


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## OZturner

John,
What a magnificent effort, you have put in.
 
I agree with an earlier post "Can it be put in the library?"
 
The knowledge you have accumulated amazes me.
 
Not having built a Click pen, I never contemplated the difficulties in stripping one, or the apparent problems experienced.
 
A sincere "Thank you".
Brian.


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## johncrane

Bean_Counter said:


> John on the elegant Sierra clicker the white and black plastic sleeves are those supposed to slide over each other? Or are they fixed? It seems when I push the plunger down there isn't enough length to engage the refill through the nib? I checked all my kits and wondering if this is how they are supposed to be. I'm driving myself nuts



I'm very sorry for not seeing this  earlier.
There not fixed they slide over each other.
The largest white plastic tube is the bush, pushed this into the brass bush 1st 
Next the white plastic shaft goes into the black plastic tube then these 2 clicker parts go into the large white plastic bush you can use the end of the refill to push them up inside and then screw on the button.:wink::biggrin:


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## johncrane

Bean_Counter said:


> John on the elegant Sierra clicker the white and black plastic sleeves are those supposed to slide over each other? Or are they fixed? It seems when I push the plunger down there isn't enough length to engage the refill through the nib? I checked all my kits and wondering if this is how they are supposed to be. I'm driving myself nuts



Hi Michael this photo shows 2 different tubes for the Elegant! you must have the longer tube,it should of had the a extender with the kit, The Elegant in the  photo above came out with a shorter tube and no extender.Sorry i didn't think of this earlier, i hope you haven't pulled all your hair out, check your floor you might of dropped it, you can buy A plastic extender.from Richard Greenwald he is a member hereto find him click on LINKS top of home page,then click on Vendors you will find him 2nd page, At his site go into Miscellaneous Pen Parts go to page 3 look for a R2B Converter this will do the  same job as the steel one.


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## Bean_Counter

Hey John, thanks so much.... Longbeard found that I do have the longer tubes... The kits I have do not have the extender for some reason and i have 4. We were thinking that the tube size needed to be smaller. These kits were purchased from a member here on IAP so hey couldve been lost before i got them, who knows. I will get with Richard's site and get some extenders. Thank you very much for your time and help on this. Saturday night I was pulling my hair out lol....


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## johncrane

Click goes the shears boys click! click! click!
Any New better clickers out there.


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## johncrane

*Removing Vertex Clip*

The Vertex Clip removal is challenging but can be done (In this Order).
1st Remove Click Housing from Pen Barrel
2nd Remove Plastic Clicker Part.
3nd Remove Bottom Bush from Click Housing, To get Access to clip bush.
4th Remove Top Clip Bush


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## johncrane

here you go ED! as requested the  title is (click mechanism an inside view) last posted May- 13- 2006


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## ed4copies

THANK YOU, John!!!!
I will store it in several computers--One of the best pieces of information I have ever gained from IAP!!


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## johncrane

thankyou Ed


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## Roger Schlenz

johncrane said:


> Click goes the shears boys click! click! click!
> Any New better clickers out there.


The Schmidt SKM88, and the SKM192,  are all metal clickers, German made, and have been available for a few years for kitless pens,  very high quality clickers.  They are incorporated into two new pens from PSI, theDuraclick EDC, and the Groove. The Duraclick uses the SKM88, and the Groove uses the smaller SKM192, so it is a 7mm pen like the Slimline.


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## johncrane

cheers Roger! thankyou for your post, i do used the German click for kit-less! what i like about the German click is you can use many different types of refills in the kitless pen design


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## Ironwood

johncrane said:


> cheers Roger! thankyou for your post, i do used the German click for kit-less! what i like about the German click is you can use many different types of refills in the kitless pen design


Hi John, where are you buying these click mechs ?


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## johncrane

G'day Brad i use richardlgreenwald.com if your thinking of recessing the clicker they have a taperd case, you can resize it, what i do to hold it in the lathe i drill tap and thread a piece of brass then remove the out side taper, then you can easily recess the clicker, the SKM88 clicker are $5.25 plus shipping getting anything  to oz is not cheap, anyway have fun you lucky bugger up there in the warm QLD


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## Ironwood

Thanks John. Will check out Richards site.

Warm and raining here at the moment.


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## magpens

Just discovered this thread.

Potentially very useful info. . . Thanks to all contributors !!


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