# Snakewood Tips!



## kkwall (Jun 2, 2007)

Hi All,


Recently bought some Snakewood pen blanks, and am having no luck with them at all!


I need some advise on the nest way to handle the stuff and tips on making it to the lathe with them.


The blanks I bought are only 14mm square, so are not very thick, which is a problem in itself. Two cracked when drilling using the slowest speed, taking a lot of time. The last one cracked on the lathe, with one blank blowing out early on, and the other (Which I was going to make up an "Oops" pen with a A/Blackwood bottom portion.) cracked and split top and bottom during sanding!


I have read lots of posts, and have tried to keep the heat to a minimum, but any advise would be much appreciated!

Thanks!


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## Fred (Jun 2, 2007)

Kenny ... I have tried drilling with a small drill bit 1st, then advancing to a larger diameter until I get to one size smaller than the kit calls for. I then take the blank and completely coat it in thin CA and let the wood take up as much CA as possible. Then let this dry completely WITHOUT using any of the accelerator. Then, drill out with the proper sized bit and put the tube into the blank again using thing CA. I just push the tube down and apply the thin CA to the very side of the last bit of tube sticking up - about 1/16". Then push the tube down and let it "set." You don't have but a second or two to push the tube in so be quick. Mill the ends and proceed to the lathe. So far so good for me ... I guess time will tell! []

Let us know if this helps you at all.


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## kf4knf (Jun 3, 2007)

Kenny,  I would take this snakewood blank issue with a grain of salt.  This wood is always a challenge - or should I say gamble, no matter what the skill level of the turner.  I have made some nice pens from smakewood only to have them split 2 months down the entire side 2 months later.

I might suggest a few things having not tried them myself.

1. Dont turn the wood right after purchasing it.  Let it sit in a dry area for a few weeks or even months before cutting into it in case the moisture content is still high.

2. Consider using a CA finish on the blank.  My thinking is it might help to strengthen the blank when its finished.

3. Try using some kind of lube on the drill bit when cutting your tube holes.  This can be water - which cools well, or oil.  This of course will mean you are forced to clear the hole more while drilling which is always a good practice.

4. Keep and eye on grain patterns when purchasing this wood - Particularly the end grain.  If the grain appears course or "loose" you might consider another blank as this might lead to an easier blowout.

Anyway, I hope this helps with your snakewood and I am sure others can add on to these thoughts of mine.  []

-Steve-


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## kkwall (Jun 3, 2007)

Thanks everyone.

These are some good tips to start working with. I have 3 blanks remaining, so will try a few of your suggestions and see how I fair.

It appears that lady luck play's a fair part on the outcome also!


Will let you know if I am succesful or not.[?]


Cheers!


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## Ligget (Jun 3, 2007)

Kenny I wouldn`t waste the time on them, you are going to go through a lot of hassle just to get a finished pen out of them.
Then "crack", the pen barrels will split eventually either when you have the pen or worse still if a customer has it![:0]
Move onto another wood that doesn`t have a reputation of cracking![]


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## kkwall (Jun 3, 2007)

Cheers Mark.


Once I have finished with the 3 remaining blanks I have, I certainly wont be buying any more. Lovely wood, but more trouble than it is worth is the general opinion.[]


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## Gary Max (Jun 3, 2007)

Someone used to say ---there are only to kinds of snakewood---the ones with a crack and the ones that are going to.
I agree with them


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## Rudy Vey (Jun 3, 2007)

Someone already mentioned that he used a small bit first and then opened up the hole with a larger one.
This is the way I did some Snakewood Barons last year April and by December they were both fine, I gave one away and have one - no crack, yet.

The pens were made in that way that I used a small drill bit first, carefully drilling the hole, making sure the blank and bit didn't get hot or really warm. This takes time. The I opened up the holes with approx 3-4 larger bits until I reached the proper opening. Glued the tubes in and started turning - also very carefully, making sure that the blanks don't get warm. Sanding same thing. In my opinion it is heat generated during drilling, turning or sanding  that eventually will make the wood crack. I believe Lou made several Snakewood pens that have not cracked.
Stabilization is not possible, I had a discussion with Steve White from River Ridge and he is telling me the wood is so dense that it will not adsorb any of the resin.


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## kkwall (Jun 3, 2007)

Thanks All,

I believe the ,oral of this is - unless you like the odd's stacked against you, and are prepared for disappointments, then stay away from Snakewood![}]


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## kkwall (Jun 4, 2007)

Hi All,

Managed to produce one snakewood blank without cracks....yet![]


But I will stay away from it going forward. Honest![]





<br />




<br />

Made it up with an African Blackwood bottom.


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## chigdon (Jun 4, 2007)

I just won't do them anymore even though it is the most beautiful wood.  I have made them using wood that was cut 5 years ago, then boiling them, drilling them with a bit I kept in the freezer, CA finish and it cracked 3 months later.  Then, I filled the cracks with black CA (which worked pretty well) and it cracked again about 6 months later AGAIN.  All this time it sat in my desk drawer.

That being said I have never had one crack while drilling and I have much better luck drilling FASTER not slower (around 2500).


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## its_virgil (Jun 4, 2007)

Anthony, where are you? Must I carry the "snakewood" bashing all alone? Anthony and I think that a cracked "highly figured"snakewood pen looks better than most any other pen made from other woods. At least I think he still thinks that way. Cut, drill and turn the pen. Do not sand or finish and leave the blanks a little proud of the bushings. Set the turned blanks on a shelf and leave them alone...let them crack until fairly certain the cracking is over then put them back on the lathe, fill the crack with a CA slurry then finish turning the pen. Sand a finish it. The crack(s) will be barely visible and the pen will look great. We must learn to work with certain woods and their limitations. Snakewood is one of those that is worth the effort...such a beartiful wood and makes one gorgeous pen.

I too have never had a snakewood blank give any problem while drilling, tooling, or sanding. I just don't believe the heat from sanding and drilling is the cause of cracking. I may be wrong. 
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by chigdon_
> <br />I just won't do them anymore even though it is the most beautiful wood.


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## alamocdc (Jun 5, 2007)

I go one step further. I blow mine up while drilling (not purposefully, mind you, but it always happens), glue them back together, finish drilling and turn as I would any other pen. The result... no more cracks. Yes, you can see that it is cracked, but like Don said, I don't think it takes away from the beauty of the wood. It just adds character.[]


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## PenWorks (Jun 5, 2007)

I have been using some brown dyed CA, I bought at the AZ symposium. That along with the sanding dust, really hides the cracks well. I agree with Virgil, let them crack, them finish them. 

I think a good test for a pen turner would be, make a snakewood, black palm, water buffalo, inlace and dymondwood  pen over the weekend. Then if you still want to turn pens after that, you are Da man. []


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## kkwall (Jun 5, 2007)

Thanks for all the advise everyone.

I can certainly see why people go to extremes to make these pen's, as the markings on them are beautiful.[}]

Is it worth all the hassle, and ending up with wohat could be a cracked pen?????[?]

I suppose it depends on your view point. I can live with minor cracking that isnt readily visible on my own pen, or my LOML pen, but I couldn't supply them to anyone else!

I have 3 more pen blanks left, and as much as I like the wood, when I have finished these, I am afraid I will walk away...![] 

Sorry Don - Anthony.


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## its_virgil (Jun 5, 2007)

No apology needed. I fully understand. This is supposed to be fun and if a particular wood take the fun from it, then there are plenty of other woods and materials from which to choose your fun. Although, I do hate to see you agonize over these last three blanks. Send 'em to me...I'm (snakewood) agony immune and then you can start having fun again. [][] 
Good luck,have fun and ...
Do a good turn daily!
Don


> _Originally posted by kkwall_
> <br />Thanks for all the advise everyone.
> 
> I have 3 more pen blanks left, and as much as I like the wood, when I have finished these, I am afraid I will walk away...![]
> ...


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## Ligget (Jun 5, 2007)

Kenny sorry for highjacking your post![]
Don and Anthony - How long should you leave a unfinished snakewood pen? When do you know it has finally STOPPED cracking, so it can be filled and then finished?


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## PenWorks (Jun 5, 2007)

Mark, it is up to the snakewood Gods. [] Some will crack before you put them on the shelf and others will never show signs of cracking. I usually wait several weeks and if it hasn't cracked by then, I will finish it.


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## Ligget (Jun 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by PenWorks_
> <br />Mark, it is up to the snakewood Gods. [] Some will crack before you put them on the shelf and others will never show signs of cracking. I usually wait several weeks and if it hasn't cracked by then, I will finish it.



Thanks Anthony!


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## barrels (Jun 5, 2007)

Don,

Thanks for the info.  I recently purchesed 6 blanks, turned one two days ago all went well applied the CA finish and the pen looked great.  Today i have cracks running lenthwise on the top and bottom blanks full lenth of the pen.  I will follow insructions and as you stated persevere and conquer.

Thank you


Eric Spatt
www.picturetrail.com/barrels

By the way i finished the buckeye tonight and all went well...I will sent photos soon...THANK YOU


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