# Spalted Maple Goblet



## W.Y. (Oct 7, 2009)

This is the first in a series of captive ring goblets I will be making  (as well as a few with no rings)   for Christmas craft sales . 
I was right out of goblets again   and they sell real good   especially  if  they are made with wood with nice markings.


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## Mrs Rojo22 (Oct 7, 2009)

Beautiful!

Robin


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## nava1uni (Oct 8, 2009)

Really beautiful goblet.


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## Jim15 (Oct 8, 2009)

That's great.


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## Glenn McCullough (Oct 8, 2009)

stunning, William. Good luck on the sales.


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## artme (Oct 8, 2009)

I'll drink to all the above comments.:biggrin::star::star::star:


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## W.Y. (Oct 8, 2009)

Thanks for the comments .
By adding the captive rings to goblets it doubles the price compared to ones without the rings. .

Sometimes I intertwine the rings like this. This one sold at a pre-Christmas craft sale last year. 

They sell just as good as pens do and they are just a piece of wood with no hardware kits to buy.


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## rpearson (Oct 8, 2009)

Excellent looking spalted maple goblet.  A very good looking piece! But then you throw in the intertwined captive rings and have to challenge the brain and make us think!   Absolutely love creating things that make people question "how did you do that".  Now you undoubtedly will have me thinking "how the heck did you do that?" at least the rest of today!  Outstanding on both!  Thanks for sharing!!!

What kind of finish are you using?


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## W.Y. (Oct 8, 2009)

rpearson said:


> Excellent looking spalted maple goblet. A very good looking piece! But then you throw in the intertwined captive rings and have to challenge the brain and make us think!  Absolutely love creating things that make people question "how did you do that". Now you undoubtedly will have me thinking "how the heck did you do that?" at least the rest of today! Outstanding on both! Thanks for sharing!!!
> 
> What kind of finish are you using?


 

Here is how I make the captive rings  with basic shop made left and right tools .

http://wmyoung.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=turning&action=display&thread=4986

 For  the intertwined ones  , although  they look complicated they are actually a no brainer . Just break  one and   put it through the other one. A drop of CA and a shot of acceleretor and a little sanding and nobody can tell.
If you are careful and break it on the grain you can usually open it just on one side and therefore only one glue joint. 

I use lacquer finish on those.


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## rpearson (Oct 8, 2009)

William O Young said:


> Here is how I make the captive rings  with basic shop made left and right tools .
> 
> http://wmyoung.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=turning&action=display&thread=4986
> 
> ...



William: Excellent example of thinking outside the box (or rings)!  Thanks for the answer and not leaving me scratching my head :biggrin:.
Outstanding tutorial and makes perfect sense now.  Not having turned any of these (yet!!!), I envisioned stopping the lathe and hand sanding the inside of the rings once they were parted off, but your explanation of taping sand paper to the spindle is perfect.  Lacquer - Is it sprayed or wipe on?  Thanks again for the tips!


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## W.Y. (Oct 8, 2009)

> William: Excellent example of thinking outside the box (or rings)! Thanks for the answer and not leaving me scratching my head :biggrin:.
> Outstanding tutorial and makes perfect sense now. Not having turned any of these (yet!!!), I envisioned stopping the lathe and hand sanding the inside of the rings once they were parted off, but your explanation of taping sand paper to the spindle is perfect. Lacquer - Is it sprayed or wipe on? Thanks again for the tips!


Randy.

I spray the lacquer .

Another tip if you are making captive rings  is that if it is  not  tooooo  heavily  spalted it is not much of a problem but don't try  it on heavily spalted wood.

The one shown at the top of this thread was just lightly spalted and quite stable throughout so it was an easy one.

I was trying to do the same with a  piece  of spalted beech  this afternoon and had nothing but trouble.
The spalted part was punky and   too far gone and in spite of trying to save the rings  by  trying to stabilize them with CA, they still sanded thin  on the spalted part and thicker  (normal) on the more solid part.
It even gave me the same problem on the  top  rim making a  very noticeable  dip in the spalted part . 
I had to remove the rings and I will do my best to save that piece as a straight goblet with no captive rings. . If it turns out  OK I will post it . If not I will burn it and chalk it up to experience. Can't win 'em all. :wink:


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## bitshird (Oct 8, 2009)

Beautiful work Bill I your tutorial was great, very easy to comprehend and well photographed, thanks.


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## mywoodshopca (Oct 8, 2009)

VERY VERY NICE!!!!

Building one of these have been on my list for a few years now lol


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## W.Y. (Oct 8, 2009)

This one is in spalted beech and it gave me a problem.
In the first one shown at the top of the thread I used spalted maple which was a fairly soft wood throughout. 
This one in beech was a totally different story. The dark parts were very hard and the light areas were very soft and punky. Even with trying to stabilize the rings the soft parts sanded out low and left the hard wood part normally high. 
So I had to remove the rings and continue without them. Then the soft punky wood on the top rim showed lower that the harder wood . I managed to do some hand sanding off the lathe to make it even all around the rim.
This one took twice as long as the maple one but at least I managed to save it..

Lesson learned is that it is sometimes best to stay away from spalted woods when making captive ring goblets.
Just a nicely figured wood whether hard or soft is the best way to go with captive ring goblets. 

This one has only two coats of lacquer on it at this point. After two more it will be bufffed with the three stage beal system after a reasonable curing time.


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## byounghusband (Oct 9, 2009)

William,
Your tutorial raises a sequence question for me.  Do you hollow out the cup after you turn down the stem and make the rings? 

When I first started trying thin stemmed goblets, I got carried away in making the stem that I forgot to turn the inside of the cup and well, lesson learned.....


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## W.Y. (Oct 9, 2009)

byounghusband said:


> William,
> Your tutorial raises a sequence question for me. Do you hollow out the cup after you turn down the stem and make the rings?
> 
> When I first started trying thin stemmed goblets, I got carried away in making the stem that I forgot to turn the inside of the cup and well, lesson learned.....


 
The tutorial showed earlier was on page three of the tutorials board was to help in the making of the tools like I use . 

Here is a recent one posted just over a week ago near the top of page one. .

http://wmyoung.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=turning&action=display&thread=8749

The cup of the goblet is always turned first and as you will see in the tutorial he puts a ball of cloth material inside the cup and brings a live center up tight to it in the tailstock before turning the stem and rings.


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## W.Y. (Oct 9, 2009)

But wait . . . there's more . . . as they say on TV . . he . . he .
This time it was juniper with captive rings. I turned it out of a 4" diameter piece of a juniper tree that a neighbor gave me all the wood from over a year ago.

Some of the logs split while drying but some dried with no problem. 

This one made my whole shop smell wonderful while turning it.


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## W.Y. (Oct 10, 2009)

Thanks for all the comments.

OK, this will be the last in this particular series of goblets before I have a change of pace and start turning something else.

I am sold out of hand held mirrors again so I will check my odds and ends of wood and see if I have something suitable for that. 

This one is in cherry and is a bigger and longer stem one than the previous three . It measures 3.5" diameter by 10" tall


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## byounghusband (Oct 10, 2009)

William,
Thanks, I was wondering how you managed to pull it off.... But now I know it is the same as I do..   

I gotta make a set of those captive ring tools...  A lot easier than using a skew and detail gouge. :wink:






William O Young said:


> The tutorial showed earlier was on page three of the tutorials board was to help in the making of the tools like I use .
> 
> Here is a recent one posted just over a week ago near the top of page one. .
> 
> ...


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## Rcd567 (Nov 3, 2009)

Beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## JohnU (Nov 3, 2009)

Wow!!   Love your choice of wood and your design is outstanding!  No suprise these sell as well as pens.   thanks for sharing.  I hope to try my hand at it someday and would be very happy with results half as good as yours.


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