# Taking Photos Outdoors



## FourOaksCrafts

I'm not a pro photographer, but need some advice. I like to take photos of my pens outdoors, usually with some type of natural background--rugged wood or animal fur. Sometimes I just use a gray cushion from the patio chair. I use either one of two point-and-shoots. A Canon PowerShot SX40 or FUJIFILM Finepix S700.

I get out of direct sunlight, so usually shoot mornings or evenings or big shaded spots during the day. I'll use a tripod, camera on auto, set to macro, and I'll snap the photo with timer setting on 10s or 2s. Take several shots, different angles, and then pick the best one.

So, I do a lot of trial & error shooting. Can you guys recommend different settings or techniques so I can make better shots--preferably outdoors? Should I take camera off auto, go to portrait or manual? If manual, what settings do you recommend?

Thanks in advance for the help!


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## flyitfast

I hope you get some good answers.  I'll be following this thread because of similar reasons.  
Thanks for bringing it up.
Gordon


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## SDB777

As long as the entire pen is in focus, the 'setting dial' doesn't really matter.

If you are in 'auto' and are getting out-of-focus imagery, then move the camera back some and let it re-focus(trial-n-error to get the distance).  You can always 'crop' to fill the frame, and the cameras you mentioned have adequate resolution to crop to size(as long as you're not on the other side of the street photo'ing).



Natural lighting as fun!  A diffuser and/or shade are the way to go...




Scott (let's see some photo's) B


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## Sylvanite

Try shooting on an overcast day.


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## TurtleTom

I believe your Canon has a viewfinder which makes it easier. I use a magnifying hood sometimes.   First of all the Canon comes with a thick user manual, at least my old PowerShot A720 IS did. You need to keep this manual close to hand while you are taking pictures as these are sophisticated cameras with a lot of different settings.   (I keep expecting mine to keel over and I'll buy a much better one.  All my pro equipment went up in an arson fire)  
   One way to get a deeper focus is to put it on AV for aperture priority and raise the number as high as you can.  This priority will half the shutter speed each number you raise the aperture so you will have to use a tripod or something to steady the camera.  For a very shallow depth of field, (with a resulting faster shutter speed) reverse this process or use Shutter priority.  The effect will be the same.  There is a way to set the distance manually by selecting manual focus, again you'll need your manual.  This is not quite as precise as you'd think but sometimes it is needed.  
  You can also hold the button half way down till it beeps and that locks in the focus for that distance if you want to have the subject half in or out of the shot. 
  Direct sunlight can cause harsh shadows that sometimes are unwanted or you can use a white flat surface to bounce sunlight into the shadows and make them lighter.  The advantage of this solution is you have a bright highlight where the sun is hitting it.  Shooting with say, a sheet suspended above the subject will remove the highlight, and bounce more light into the shadows.  It is for that reason you will see professionals use a flash in daylight on photos they cannot control the lighting.  
   Cloudy days, or twilight each have their signature marks on photos with sometimes an increase in color saturation (at the expense of contrast).  
   I'm not really sure how to help you any more than this.  I suggest you study your user manual, there's a lot in there with a Canon camera.  
   Remember there is a cost of either aperture or shutter speed each time you change one.  The other has to be cut in half or doubled, depending which way you went.
   I was a professional for many years back when they had film in them,  (including Vietnam for the US Army)
   You can always PM me, I will usually help.


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## TurtleTom

Photographing shiny objects like pens has it's own problems.  To cut glare a pro will bounce the light at such an angle that it doesn't produce glare.  Or use a polarizing filter.
Polarizers are almost magic the way they control glare.  The problem with them is they will quarter the speed or aperture you are working with, and they aren't cheap.  Meaning more light or a faster lens but in daylight it will never be a problem.  With slow Kodachrome it was always a problem.
You can also use your polarized fishing glasses with your camera.  Put the glasses in front of the lens and rotate the glasses up to 90 degrees to change the visual effect while you watch.   The first time is like magic.  
Imagine trying to photograph a ball bearing inside a large ping pong ball.  This would be an extreme case of light management.  even using black and colored boards or draped cloth on the outside to produce form and contrast.


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## farmer

FourOaksCrafts said:


> I'm not a pro photographer, but need some advice. I like to take photos of my pens outdoors, usually with some type of natural background--rugged wood or animal fur. Sometimes I just use a gray cushion from the patio chair. I use either one of two point-and-shoots. A Canon PowerShot SX40 or FUJIFILM Finepix S700.
> 
> I get out of direct sunlight, so usually shoot mornings or evenings or big shaded spots during the day. I'll use a tripod, camera on auto, set to macro, and I'll snap the photo with timer setting on 10s or 2s. Take several shots, different angles, and then pick the best one.
> 
> So, I do a lot of trial & error shooting. Can you guys recommend different settings or techniques so I can make better shots--preferably outdoors? Should I take camera off auto, go to portrait or manual? If manual, what settings do you recommend?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!


 

Hi
Common sense is if you were a professional photographer you wouldn't be photographing pens outside during day light hours and expect professional looking photos of your pens..  At night with strobes or flashes, piece of cake...

Professional photographers wouldn't be using the cameras you are using to do professional product photography.
Professional Photography gear works every time as in being able to control or paint light... if you are professional enough to know how to use the gear. 

You are not a professional photographer, the way you are thinking ( out door product photography during the day ) is something every beginner tries when he doesn't have the right lighting................

In order to get Professional looking photographs of your pens you will need
have a understanding of Light...    

Professional photography equipment just makes the job allot easier.

I shoot everything in manual Mode,  Every lens is different and allows different amounts of light so no one can tell you exactly where you should be setting your camera.

White balance should be set to shade  Or a custom white balance setting.
ISO should be set to 200 to 400 depending on how dark it is, ISO 100 is the best but you might be setting the camera up to slow shutter speeds.
F 9 to 12 seems to work good for aperture setting the lower the number is for photographing in low light or your shooting sports or something in motion .
Low F stop settings like give a shallow  (depth of field ) (  DOF )where everthing is fuzzy before and after the photo. called the BOKEN effect .
The higher the F stop the deeper the DOF is like on land scape photos,.



Boken effect I think I was using a Canon 5D II camera body with a Canon 100 to 400 mm 4.5 L 



Out side in the night,
 First test photos where taken without a tripod.
Using a Canon 580 II speed light with a rogue flash bender on a canon T3i body with a 10- 22 mm lens was used on the pocket chalker 


 

This picture a 18- 55mm kit lens was used .


Next test will be with a tripod and then using the 580 speed light off shoe.
Then I will start to us better lenses.
PS The pen is sitting on a card board dog food box  ( ALPO ) to be exact 
Out side photography at night using a flash 



Not the best but it does show hope .
I will be doing some of these test with a 18- 55mm kit lens on to show you guys what to expect out of your entry level equipment .
At a certain point I will be switching to some very expensive lenses and to a full frame camera body.
As said above I also plan on going to a off shoe flash .
PS I was using a CPL on the first 2 photos .


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## TurtleTom

Here is a great link to Sylvanite's article that explains it better and in more depth that I did.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/pen-photography-putting-concept-into-practice-128555/


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## PenPal

Using natural light outside before 10 am after 4 pm can result in colour shifts from natural.

Photographing in shade can create a green cast if the shade is produced by greenery.

I use an open frame for my pen pics 24/7 simple lighting takes me ten minutes from start to insert in the Picassa 3 program free I use.

I initially thought outdoors great then wet days windy days cold days too hot days too many variables for me.

Kind regards Peter.


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## FourOaksCrafts

Thanks everyone for all the great advice. I'm not sure I'm seeking to become a professional at this, but some of you are inspiring me toward that goal. Short term, I just want to improve on what I'm doing now. I'm primarily publishing pen photos for tutorials and not to sell pens.

But here is a sample or two, of what I'm doing. You guys probably have a keener eye for what's wrong with these photos.


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## FourOaksCrafts

Here's another one.


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## FourOaksCrafts

Here is an antler cigar pen.


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## Rockytime

FourOaksCrafts said:


> Here is an antler cigar pen.




I think your photos are just fine, in fact I think they look great. I would only suggest your backgrounds are too busy and detract from your pens.


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## FourOaksCrafts

Rockytime --- What you said reminded me of the time I tried submitting a photo to Craftgawkers.com.  They have an extreme review process, and photos must meet several specific criteria. The issue I was shot down on was the composition being too tight and styling issues. What you described was background distractions which was another thing they look for.

But I thought about their criteria of styling issues, which means placing the photo in the proper context to showcase the craft. I'll admit that not many of my photos follow that criteria since mine are more related to tutorials. But for those trying to sell a pen, maybe they should be showing the pen in a context that will sell it better.

I see a lot of beautiful pens sitting on a stand with a white background. As a pen turner I salivate at the beauty, the detail, the craftsmenship, but I wonder what the average consumer thinks.  Would it be more effective to photograph the pen resting in someone's hand? Or perhaps on a desk top? Or maybe on top of a pad of paper (where you just wrote the word "success")? Beside a handmade letter opener?

One thing I do sometimes is photograph a bullet pen with either an antler or animal fur in the background. That certainly grabs a hunter's attention. Just some more ideas to think about, but I realize I have tons to learn.


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## Sylvanite

FourOaksCrafts said:


> But I thought about their criteria of styling issues, which means placing the photo in the proper context to showcase the craft. I'll admit that not many of my photos follow that criteria since mine are more related to tutorials. But for those trying to sell a pen, maybe they should be showing the pen in a context that will sell it better.


Have a look at http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-composition-125808/ for some ideas on pen photo composition.  Also, if you are shooting outdoors in varying conditions (i.e. different times of day, sunlight, shade, overcast) you'll need to adjust your white balance.  See http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-white-balance-122757/ for an explanation.

I hope that helps,
Eric


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## Sylvanite

farmer said:


> Low F stop settings like give a shallow  (depth of field ) (  DOF )where everthing is fuzzy before and after the photo. called the BOKEN effect .


Actually, it's "bokeh" (or "boke"), not "boken".  It's from the japanese word for "blur".  When photographers comment on bokeh, they're talking about the quality of the blur, not the depth of field.

Regards,
Eric


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## farmer

*Correction*



Sylvanite said:


> farmer said:
> 
> 
> 
> Low F stop settings like give a shallow  (depth of field ) (  DOF )where everthing is fuzzy before and after the photo. called the BOKEN effect .
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, it's "bokeh" (or "boke"), not "boken".  It's from the japanese word for "blur".  When photographers comment on bokeh, they're talking about the quality of the blur, not the depth of field.
> 
> Regards,
> Eric
Click to expand...

 
Thanks for the spelling correction,


The op is not going to improve his photography skills until he starts photographing in manual........


When I started to sale online I tried photographing custom pool cues outside in the sun light Then in the shade. then with a large light tent photographing outside.


It was a disaster. The wind picked up, blew the light tent over with about a 800.00 cue inside. knocked my camera over on the tripod.

I didn't care for the picture quality......


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## FourOaksCrafts

Sylvanite said:


> FourOaksCrafts said:
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought about their criteria of styling issues, which means placing the photo in the proper context to showcase the craft. I'll admit that not many of my photos follow that criteria since mine are more related to tutorials. But for those trying to sell a pen, maybe they should be showing the pen in a context that will sell it better.
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look at http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-composition-125808/ for some ideas on pen photo composition.  Also, if you are shooting outdoors in varying conditions (i.e. different times of day, sunlight, shade, overcast) you'll need to adjust your white balance.  See http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-white-balance-122757/ for an explanation.
> 
> I hope that helps,
> Eric
Click to expand...


Excellent tutorials! I really got a lot about of your tutorials and very impressed with your photos. Thanks for sharing!


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## FourOaksCrafts

Sylvanite said:


> FourOaksCrafts said:
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought about their criteria of styling issues, which means placing the photo in the proper context to showcase the craft. I'll admit that not many of my photos follow that criteria since mine are more related to tutorials. But for those trying to sell a pen, maybe they should be showing the pen in a context that will sell it better.
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look at http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-composition-125808/ for some ideas on pen photo composition.  Also, if you are shooting outdoors in varying conditions (i.e. different times of day, sunlight, shade, overcast) you'll need to adjust your white balance.  See http://www.penturners.org/forum/f24/photography-basics-white-balance-122757/ for an explanation.
> 
> I hope that helps,
> Eric
Click to expand...


Thanks so much for sharing the tutorials! That was very helpful. Everyone has been a great help in this discussion.


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## Browncoat

FourOaksCrafts said:


> I'm not a pro photographer, but need some advice. I like to take photos of my pens outdoors, usually with some type of natural background--rugged wood or animal fur. Sometimes I just use a gray cushion from the patio chair. I use either one of two point-and-shoots. A Canon PowerShot SX40 or FUJIFILM Finepix S700.
> 
> I get out of direct sunlight, so usually shoot mornings or evenings or big shaded spots during the day. I'll use a tripod, camera on auto, set to macro, and I'll snap the photo with timer setting on 10s or 2s. Take several shots, different angles, and then pick the best one.
> 
> So, I do a lot of trial & error shooting. Can you guys recommend different settings or techniques so I can make better shots--preferably outdoors? Should I take camera off auto, go to portrait or manual? If manual, what settings do you recommend?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!



You've got the basics down: macro setting, tripod, camera timer. Using a tripod in conjunction with a timer makes for hands-free shots, which eliminates camera shake that can throw focus out of whack. I've seen a lot of decent shots on this site that could be a lot better if only they were in proper focus.

Honestly, I wouldn't recommend going into manual mode here. Sure, you can read a Depth of Field Primer, but it's not going to improve your overall shot quality. Some wanna-bes like to wear "manual focus" as if it's some kind of badge of honor that makes you a better photographer. Unless you're trying to win some kind of artsy-fartsy contest, you want everything to be in focus for product photography. Auto mode is just fine.

Friendly advice: your backgrounds are too busy. They're detracting attention from your pens. Choose something simple, and preferably without a lot of different colors and/or patterns. Textures are also great...something like a block of wood or some wet river rocks.


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## Si90

Hi

I take all of my photographs outdoors. I couldn't do it any simpler. I use a small point and shoot Lumix FX7 compact set on macro. The only thing to do is pick the correct day when it is overcast to avoid harsh light and a blue reflection of the sky. I also set the camera to slightly under expose so that the highlight isn't too harsh or blown out. While I freely admit they are not Professional Studio quality I don't think they are that bad.

The link in my signature is to my Photobucket account with my pictures in. Taking the picture to finished uploaded image no more than 10/15 minutes.


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## FourOaksCrafts

Browncoat said:


> FourOaksCrafts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a pro photographer, but need some advice. I like to take photos of my pens outdoors, usually with some type of natural background--rugged wood or animal fur. Sometimes I just use a gray cushion from the patio chair. I use either one of two point-and-shoots. A Canon PowerShot SX40 or FUJIFILM Finepix S700.
> 
> I get out of direct sunlight, so usually shoot mornings or evenings or big shaded spots during the day. I'll use a tripod, camera on auto, set to macro, and I'll snap the photo with timer setting on 10s or 2s. Take several shots, different angles, and then pick the best one.
> 
> So, I do a lot of trial & error shooting. Can you guys recommend different settings or techniques so I can make better shots--preferably outdoors? Should I take camera off auto, go to portrait or manual? If manual, what settings do you recommend?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've got the basics down: macro setting, tripod, camera timer. Using a tripod in conjunction with a timer makes for hands-free shots, which eliminates camera shake that can throw focus out of whack. I've seen a lot of decent shots on this site that could be a lot better if only they were in proper focus.
> 
> Honestly, I wouldn't recommend going into manual mode here. Sure, you can read a Depth of Field Primer, but it's not going to improve your overall shot quality. Some wanna-bes like to wear "manual focus" as if it's some kind of badge of honor that makes you a better photographer. Unless you're trying to win some kind of artsy-fartsy contest, you want everything to be in focus for product photography. Auto mode is just fine.
> 
> Friendly advice: your backgrounds are too busy. They're detracting attention from your pens. Choose something simple, and preferably without a lot of different colors and/or patterns. Textures are also great...something like a block of wood or some wet river rocks.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice! I will definitely experiment with some different backgrounds. I also like to use backgrounds to identify with different audiences. I guess you want to create some kind of "story" or association in the pic without taking too much attention off the pen.


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## FourOaksCrafts

Si90 said:


> Hi
> 
> I take all of my photographs outdoors. I couldn't do it any simpler. I use a small point and shoot Lumix FX7 compact set on macro. The only thing to do is pick the correct day when it is overcast to avoid harsh light and a blue reflection of the sky. I also set the camera to slightly under expose so that the highlight isn't too harsh or blown out. While I freely admit they are not Professional Studio quality I don't think they are that bad.
> 
> The link in my signature is to my Photobucket account with my pictures in. Taking the picture to finished uploaded image no more than 10/15 minutes.



Nice pics! I like your background also. Personally, I like having some kind of background to give a pen some context.


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## TurtleTom

Hi
Common sense is if you were a professional photographer you wouldn't be photographing pens outside during day light hours and expect professional looking photos of your pens..  At night with strobes or flashes, piece of cake...

Professional photographers wouldn't be using the cameras you are using to do professional product photography.

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Wow!  You don't pull any punches do you?  
I really hate airing dirty laundry in public but did I mention everything I owned was destroyed when an arsonist tried to burn all of East Oklahoma in 2006 while I was recovering from major surgery forcing a disabled retirement?  I hope you'll be able to enjoy your nice equipment for a long time.


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