# Turning snakewood



## Skip_Evans (Jan 8, 2009)

I non penturner friend just informed me that he bought a cigar kit and a snakewood blank and wants me to turn it. I have heard that snakewood can be tough to turn.
What can I expect?


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## Skye (Jan 8, 2009)

Cracks.











Seriously though, it's a tricky wood to turn. A lot of people find that the key is in the drilling. Drill just a smidge. I mean a smaaaaaaaaaaaall depth, then let it come back to room temp, like 30 minutes. Then drill some more, rest for a while. Do this until you've done the whole blank, can take a whole day if you do it like some people.

In the end, it's going to be a guessing game. It may crack, it may not. Bottom line is prepare him for it, get familiar with disassembly techniques, tell him not to leave it in the sun, in a car, in his coat, etc.


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## TowMater (Jan 8, 2009)

I drilled out 4 sierra blanks before I got one to drill all the way through without splitting apart. I spread the drilling out over about 3 hours. Go slow, take small nibbles and let it rest for a bit, then com back and nibble some more.


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## lwalden (Jan 8, 2009)

And I'd use a brand spankin' new Norseman 10MM drill bit- sharp bit will significantly help lower the liklihood of splitting during the intial drilling. And cutting the blanks long, drilling long enough for the tubes but not all the way through, and then trimming the blank off to expose the drilled hole.......


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## jimm1 (Jan 9, 2009)

Sharp Drill, slow drilling is the way to go.  You still most likely will get cracks.  I just hate hearing that sound.
I turned misfortune into success... Whether your first turn is successful or not, save your shavings and the snakewood dust from the sanding.  Depending on the size of the cracks, use either the shavings or the sanding dust to fill the cracks.  Then use thin CA glue over the cracks. Continue sanding. You'll get a beautiful pen.


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## Randy_ (Jan 9, 2009)

I have seen some folks suggest using a water gun or something comparable to introduce water into the hole to keep the wood and the drill bit cool.
 
Might help.....probably can't hurt.
 
Also probably want to drill at a somewhat slower speed than you might normally.
 
I just bought a few SW blanks, myself and am planning to get a little first hand experience.  They have been sitting in the kitchen for the past month or so acclimating and perhaps loosing some moisture if they are not fully seasoned.  Each blank has lost about one gram in weight over the past month.  Not a terribly great amount; but I am going wait another month or so and see if the weight lost continues.
 
Coincidentally, I was researching snakewood on the Internet and ran across an big-time exotic wood seller who stated that snakewood has naturally occurring micro-cracks thoughout and is very difficult to work with for that reason.  Also said snakewood was one of the rarest woods on the planet,,,,,if not the rarest!!


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## Skye (Jan 9, 2009)

Randy_ said:


> I have seen some folks suggest using a water gun or something comparable to introduce water into the hole to keep the wood and the drill bit cool.



With my luck any residual moisture would ruin my CA finish.


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## smoky10 (Jan 9, 2009)

When I drill SW I drill it three times, first with a small bit, and then a larger bit, and finally the size I want. I drill on my lathe so I drill slow. I run the bit in a little, back it out and if its too hot to touch I let it cool. I also have a large fan blowing on it.


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## ssajn (Jan 11, 2009)

Try one of three things. 
1. Stabilize it with thin CA
2. Put it in a pressure pot with some resin.
3. Soak it in Minwax Wood Hardener overnight.

I've used the CA and wood hardener and not had a problem since but you still have to drill slow to keep the heat build up down.
Dave


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