# Alternative to Boiled Linseed Oil



## KenV

I do not keep boiled linseed oil around because of the issues with combustion and paper towls/rags.   Need not happen often to be serious and my personal choice is to use other products which do not have that risk--

I have a product called "Tried and True Oil" that is a heat treated linseed oil without solvents nor metals added to make it harden.   I carry this to Alaska in checked luggage without a problem with TSA screening as it has no more warnings labels than a bottle of olive oil.  

Besides producing a nice soft finish on shaker boxes, this is producing a nice soft finish for pens when I want a plain soft natural wood feel, and it is giving a nice polish and feel to a Medium CA finish.  Nothing complex, just an all around safer product to boiled linseed oil.   Costs more but at a net of about 0.02 or less per pen, it is not a significant issue.   Got the last can at Woodcraft in Seattle.  Works in a CA style plastic bottles I get from Manny for application.

Food safe, kid safe, fire safe, and makes a good CA and Oil finish.  

I may have to try olive oil too........


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## jttheclockman

You want something even safer try flax seed oil. Get it at the nutrician centers.


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## KenV

John -  will do that as I have some in the fridge -- and I suspect that walnut oil may work also.   

One reason to use the raw oils is that they do not have the amber hue that Boiled Linseed Oil and to a lesser extent, the Tried and True oils have.  

Both oils are available in the "Organic Food" section at the grocers here in Juneau, so expect that they are available most every where else also.


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## RussFairfield

You will find that the raw oils will turn into the same dark color as the processed oils. The only difference is that it will take longer. The processed oils are given a head start as a result of whatever "process" they have been subjected to.


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## johnkepka

Flaxseed is as I recall another name for Linseed in the older days.  Do you think it has the same or similar durability to tru oil for a finish.  I am thinking of using on fishing rod handles for a low gloss finish on the cork instead of tru oil which builds finish and gloss. How long is the drying time??


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## KenV

I have references that say that Flaxseed (Linen seed Oil or linseed oil) oils are non-drying unless processed, or have the addition of chemical dryers.   The processing I am familiar with is heating under pressure (TruOil gun stock finish and Tried and True Oil). 

Then there are all those oil-varnish blends sold in cans with different claims.....

Same references say that straignt walnut oil is a drying oil, but slow in doing so.


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## RussFairfield

The problem is that raw Linseed Oil cures on the surface and seals the wet oil under it from exposure to the atmospheric oxygen that it needs to initiate the polymerization reaction.  Drying agents are added to provide the oxygen, or the oil is subjected to some boiling process to start the polymerization. Left to itself, it will eventually cure, but it will take several weeks in the best of conditions. There isn't a lot of difference in the end result, but the boiled oils (True Oil, etc>) are more reliable, and a faster curing. 

All Walnut Oils are not alike. One big difference is in how it is extracted, pressing or distillation, and whether the proteins are carried over into the oil or boiled away. Some Walnut oil will harden, and some won't. There are Walnut Oils available that are intended for finishing and sold in woodworking and art supply stores. The Walnut Oil in the grocery store is a mixed bag because those who bottle it DO NOT want a salad and cooking oil that hardens with exposure to the atmosphere, and some of it has preservatives that insure it will never harden. The Hain brand is one that will cure, but it will be a long wait.

If you want to use a pure oil finish, I would suggest Tung Oil. It will harden into a good finish. Thin the 1st coat 50% with turpentine.

There is an article on Tung Oil on my website at

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/FSOriginal6.html


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## jttheclockman

I would not recomend flax seed oil as a finish. I suggested that for a substitute with the use of CA. The use of oils with CA is just a means to spread the CA smoother. To me it is not needed. I do not use oils.


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