# Shopefox Technician: Not for Capturing Acrylic "Dust"



## TonyL (May 4, 2015)

In a separate post, I noted my SF 1.5HP stopped working suddenly. It is within the warranty period and they do plan honor the warranty (2 years). Anyway, I was naturally very honest about my use of unit and the materials that I turn. The technician replied that according the owner's manual, the  SF is not for collecting anything but wood shavings/dust. He said that plastics etc. have a tendency to melt and bond to the internal mechanisms/parts causing switches to freeze and parts to fuse together.

I am just repeating what he told me, and again, they are going to honor their warranty. I am writing this to all in the event that you own a SF or a better collector which may have the same warnings in their owner's manual (which can potential void a warranty). I am sure that many have used the DCs to trap materials that we are embarrassed to mention for decades. I am just letting you know what I was told.

I am going to consult the OM's of the Jets, PMs, and up, and see what they say. I turn 85% non wood, and want to have the right unit.

I hope house helps somebody.

Happy turning and peace.

BTW, the technician advised me to jump the switch. At least it his advice should be on record somewhere.


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## Wildman (May 4, 2015)

I have clogged my DC with wet wood shavings and had to shut it off to clear the blockage.  So stopped using it for wet wood and simply sweep up the mess.    Had a switch go out on my DC which was out of warranty and could not find a replacement.  Shipping cost me more than the switch.  Shavings or dust never touched the switch or anything electrical!

Normally just sweep up acrylic shavings & chips then use my shop vac to get anything I miss.  So hard to understand why acrylic debris would cause a DC to stop running!  My shop vac pretty old.


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## larryc (May 4, 2015)

I have had that Shopfox dust collector for six or seven years now and the only problem I have with the acrylics is that the strands sometimes hang up on the inlet and need to be cleared out.


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## jttheclockman (May 4, 2015)

TonyL said:


> In a separate post, I noted my SF 1.5HP stopped working suddenly. It is within the warranty period and they do plan honor the warranty (2 years). Anyway, I was naturally very honest about my use of unit and the materials that I turn. The technician replied that according the owner's manual, the  SF is not for collecting anything but wood shavings/dust. He said that plastics etc. have a tendency to melt and bond to the internal mechanisms/parts causing switches to freeze and parts to fuse together.
> 
> I am just repeating what he told me, and again, they are going to honor their warranty. I am writing this to all in the event that you own a SF or a better collector which may have the same warnings in their owner's manual (which can potential void a warranty). I am sure that many have used the DCs to trap materials that we are embarrassed to mention for decades. I am just letting you know what I was told.
> 
> ...




Tony  for my own reference what collector do you have??  Is it a single stage, dual stage barrel type or dual stage cyclone type. or something else???

All motors are inclosed so are switches. Nothing else in there. (sparks and wood dust do not mix well) If it has an electronic start (aka: remote start) that should be outside the unit. (that too should be dust tight) 

Even though you went and made a post asking for suggestions as to what can cause the problem and you never mentioned you tried any that were given, except that you will use the warrenty, I am curious since you said you had the unit for 6 months, in that time frame how often do you say you used the DC to collect ( so called acrylic dust). How many pens, bottle stoppers or anything else you make from acrylic, would that be??? You also mentioned you bought another DC, what unit did you buy and will you use it to collect the acrylic dust????

Maybe it would be a good idea to put a screen in front of the collecting inlet to trap all the large curls. You then can eliminate them from clogging the inlet and getting onto the impeller if that be the case. 

Something is just not adding up. I have had my Delta 2 stage collector for over 30 years. Have used it to collect all sorts of material because I cut plexiglass on my tablesaw too along with metals. 

Hope you tell us what the TECHS find out.


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## TonyL (May 4, 2015)

Thanks for your questions. I made approximately 50 pens since October - about 40 acrylic and mixed material (no metals) and 10 wood. That's it. I don't make anything else. I use a Rigid ShopVac for the floor....sometimes I use the DC for the floor in front of the lathe. The floor is concrete with a comfort matt on top.

I have pulled a ball of acrylic yarn from inlet when removing the top of a spray paint can once. Believe it or not, I do check the inlet every once in a while just for preventative maintenance.

On Saturday...I ran it for about 3 hours total...not straight, but over a 4 hours period of time. It stopped after it ran for about an hour straight..then I heard a light click ...light a GFCI tripping. 

Tomorrow, I am supposed to remove the paddle cover, then the 4 screws that hold in the switch and see if anything became disconnected. Then jump the switch if I don't see any disconnections. That is what, Andrew, the tech told me to do - nice guy, very patient.

I am pretty impressed with a two year warranty.  I did pick up the Rockler single bag tonight as a spare.

The ShopFox is a 1685 (1.5 HP dual bag)...nothing else in front of it.

Thanks again for the guidance.


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## Cmiles1985 (May 4, 2015)

I was worried that my ShopSmith bit the bullet awhile back. I pulled it apart, and realized that the acrylic ribbons had bound the motor. It would try to start, but just wouldn't go. Since cleaning it out, it works like a champ! If you turn mostly acrylics, you may want to check that there aren't ribbons binding a shaft somewhere.


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## TonyL (May 4, 2015)

Will do!


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## beck3906 (May 4, 2015)

You may want to put something like this ahead of the dust collector to trap the acrylic .

Buy Oneida Molded Dust Deputy Kit With Two 5-Gallon Plastic Buckets at Woodcraft.com


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2015)

TonyL said:


> Thanks for your questions. I made approximately 50 pens since October - about 40 acrylic and mixed material (no metals) and 10 wood. That's it. I don't make anything else. I use a Rigid ShopVac for the floor....sometimes I use the DC for the floor in front of the lathe. The floor is concrete with a comfort matt on top.
> 
> I have pulled a ball of acrylic yarn from inlet when removing the top of a spray paint can once. Believe it or not, I do check the inlet every once in a while just for preventative maintenance.
> 
> ...



Thanks Tony for the update but that is nothing when you talk about the amount of product you turned on it. That should not cause that DC to shut down like that unless again running for that period of time in a enclosed setting may have caused the motor to overheat. 


Once again I am repeating myself here but before you take anything apart or jump anything out. Try the DC in a different outlet, preferrably one that is not GFCI. Also check to see if the overload thermal switch did not trip. If it is a manual one it will have a small button tucked somewhere on that motor.

Not sure how you had the electrician hook up the outlet for this but i would have had him make that a switch controlled outlet and you could have turned the unit on and off from a wall switch in a location of your choice. Using those toggle switches on machines like that really test the endurance of those switches. Good luck.


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2015)

Tony

I looked up your unit and here is the manual. http://pics.woodstockint.com/manuals/w1685_m.pdf

I see this unit has a starting capacitor. This means it has a centrifugal switch too which could be bad. I also see it has a paddle safety switch. Within that switch box I see it has an overload button and it looks like it is on top of that switch box (or maybe just inside) and not on the motor. I would try resetting that overload button first thing and it looks like it is a pushbutton operation. I would shut the unit off before doing this because it could start right up if that is what is tripped and you have the switch on. 

With capacitors they can break down with heat so that could be bad. I am doubting that switch is bad and I do not think you will be able to jump it out unless you know what you are doing. That overload button is in the circuit too so you would need to jump that out too if you truly want to check and make sure the trouble  is not in that box. All these components are outside the DC and sealed so I believe dust is definitely not a factor. Good luck.


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

Thanks John. You are right.; my use is very light. There is no external reset; the tech told me where to look.  I haven't tried a non GFCI outlet but will.  My shop I is well ventilated and cool. I will try the above and get back to you/all. Thank you very much!


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

Ok. It was the switch. Jumped it with the technician over the phone and it started right up and to speed. SF is sending me a switch and screws. Thanks for all of your help!


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## Edgar (May 5, 2015)

Glad to hear it was something simple, Tony.

+1 on what Rick said about putting a separator ahead of the DC.
I went the cheap route & got one of these from Woodcraft & a metal 30-gal trash can from Home Depot. Works great.
Trash Can Cyclone Lid


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

And on sale! Thank you. 

BTW, your birdhouse is a huge hit. Friend me on FB and see it.  I have to learn to make 

Anthony (Tony) LoBello Jr.


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## Edgar (May 5, 2015)

Happy to hear that Lori likes the mini birdhouse. I enjoyed making it for her. Sorry it took me so long.

FB friend request coming up


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2015)

TonyL said:


> Ok. It was the switch. Jumped it with the technician over the phone and it started right up and to speed. SF is sending me a switch and screws. Thanks for all of your help!




That is great. I hope you think about what I suggested about having that outlet switch controlled. A residential 20amp switch is alot more sturdy than those toggle switches on machines like that. They are not going to hold up well with constant use. You hear this complaint a lot with jet lathes. That switch went bad in 6 months and you are replacing with the same switch. Anyway good to hear you have a fix and good luck to you.


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

Thank you. I will do that after the two year warranty expires.


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2015)

TonyL said:


> Thank you. I will do that after the two year warranty expires.




Adding a wall switch has nothing to do with the warrenty of the unit. You are making the outlet that the DC is plugged into a switch operated outlet. You leave that toggle switch in the on position and you shut the unit off with the wall switch.


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

Ahhh.. I though that is what you meant. So leave the switch on the unit always on and operate from the better quality wall switch. I get it...I think.

Nice!


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

John...how about a good quality 20 amp plug in switch,  I assuming there I was such a thing?


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## Edgar (May 5, 2015)

+1 on John's suggestion re switched wall outlets
I have them for a couple of my tools, but I still need to install one for my lathe which is the tool I turn on & off the most.


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

Can I use a plug in one?


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## wyone (May 5, 2015)

I am not aware of a plug in type of switch that would have a 1 1/2 hp rating at 120 volt.  At least not in the residential world.  I agree with John that the best thing would be to install a switch that is rated for the horsepower of the motor external to the DC.  Actually I would probably use a relay and transformer with a low voltage switch so that I could have multiple switches.  Again, not sure of a commercially available set up like that, unless you buy like the long ranger system.  I just looked it up and it is actually rated for 1 1/2 HP and available from PSI for around $65.   That one actually has a wireless remote that they say works through walls and up to 25 feet.   I have never used one, so I have no experience with the reliability of it, but I see them around so they must be OK at least.


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## hanau (May 5, 2015)

Look at wireless remote outlets. My is hooked up to a wall outlet that is remote controlled. 

Turn on and off from anywhere in the shop.


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## jaywood1207 (May 5, 2015)

See if Harbor Freight or Grizzly have something like this.  I put it off for a long time because I was too cheap and my shop was small.  Once we moved and my shop became 45 feet long I bit the bullet and would never go without it now.  I can turn the dust collector on from anywhere in the house so reception is very good.
Buy Switch Remote D/collector 220v at Busy Bee Tools


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

I have this one brand new ...never used, but only rated for 15 amps.
Safety Power Tool Switch - Rockler Woodworking Tools


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2015)

Tony

Again I checked the owners manual that I posted the link to and that unit you have is a 16amp 1-1/2hp unit. The outlet that you have it plugged into is a 20 amp gfci (this is an assumption) from what i gathered from both threads. You do not have to go crazy and install motor controllers or motor highend switches. What you need is a 30amp motor rated industrial switch. 30amps switches is rated for 1-1/2HP 120v. 

You could go with a remote start switch if you prefer. Nothing wrong with that if it is rated for your unit. Then you have to worry about batteries for the remote. The large paddle switch is not acceptable. Not rated for your unit. 

Again I am making an assumption that the DC is in a separate room or enclosure. Having a wall switch in the area you work in is convenient so you do not have to walk over and turn it on in the other room.  This is the way I have mine hooked up and works great. 

Here is a Home Depot version.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941


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## TonyL (May 5, 2015)

You are right...but there's no way I am going to touch that electrical box  . The next time I need my electrician, I will ask him to install. I still can't believe I jumped the switch on the SF..which was really not a big deal. Thanks though.


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2015)

TonyL said:


> You are right...but there's no way I am going to touch that electrical box  . The next time I need my electrician, I will ask him to install. I still can't believe I jumped the switch on the SF..which was really not a big deal. Thanks though.




Yes it would take a qualified electrician to do the install on that one. When you get your new switch pay attention to the colored wires and the terminals they are on, because you are breaking both the hot and neutral with that switch.  Also remember to unplug the unit


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## TonyL (May 7, 2015)

Thanks. It should arrive today.


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## Old Codger (May 7, 2015)

Tony...I have the same Jet 1221VS that you have and recently connected it to a 2 stage Dust Colllector system (i.e.; Woodcraft cyclone unit/w 30 gal metal trash can) connected to a HF 2 HP(?) dust collector and have been EXTREMELY pleased with the results.  The HF dc shows no (or miniscule...) dust/shavings while the woodcraft cyclone collects almost all of the residue!  I'm extremely pleased with the results and couldn't be more pleased for a small shop/2 car garage.  I still use my Onedia 2nd stage w/my shop vac for other tools plus 2 RIKON Air Scrubbers plus a 20" box fan w/filter to clean my small shop air...w/those plus my reserator, I HOPE i"m safe...  Can't be to SAFE w/dust particulars...   Safe turning to you always!


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## TonyL (May 7, 2015)

Thank you. The replacement switch will be here tomorrow, and my 2.5 micron bag arrived today.


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