# Gluing up Staron (Similar to Corian) Material



## lapdog (Feb 13, 2010)

I have access to alot of 1/2" Staron solid surface material.  Should the pen blank glue-up be shiny side to shiny side or dull side to dull side.  I found some instruction on the internet but it did not clearly answer this question for me.  I am interested in minimizing any visible seam.  Thanks for any help.


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## Parson (Feb 13, 2010)

Each of the solid surface material makers has a special two part color-specific epoxy kit they use to create very tight seams that don't show. I've tried to sand and glue up corian for a pen with CA and it still showed a seam.

Of course, you can use alternating patterns and solve this problem. But if you want seamless material, you may want to buy that kit.


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## hewunch (Feb 13, 2010)

lapdog said:


> I have access to alot of 1/2" Staron solid surface material.  Should the pen blank glue-up be shiny side to shiny side or dull side to dull side.  I found some instruction on the internet but it did not clearly answer this question for me.  I am interested in minimizing any visible seam.  Thanks for any help.



Using  CA do shiny to shiny. Scuff it up a little with 150 grit, clamp well after the glue is applied


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## DozerMite (Feb 13, 2010)

It's not inexpensive for the gun required for the factory adhesive, usually a couple hundred just for the gun.
Just sand some of the material and mix the dust in some epoxy. Doesn't really matter which surface you use, since the colored epoxy fills any imperfections.
If there is a pattern in the material, it will always show to some degree, because the pattern doesn't match up.


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## AceMrFixIt (Feb 13, 2010)

I made a plunger out of 2 different size dowels taped together and it works well for the factory adhesive tubes. Gluing the smooth sides together with ca works well and has minimum seam.


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## JohnU (Feb 13, 2010)

The problem with CA, in my experience, is there is a potential to your seam cracking if the tube and hole are tight when gluing. There is no give with CA.  I think I would try the epoxy with some color close to the material.  good luck


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## Parson (Feb 14, 2010)

Mine cracked when using CA, although I might try mixing dust from the color in it and trying it again.

The two part can be mixed and applied like normal two part epoxy. No gun required.


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## bgibb42 (Feb 14, 2010)

Has anybody tried regular epoxy with some sanding dust or a small amount of similarly tinted paint mixed in?


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## jeffnreno (Feb 14, 2010)

*How I Glue Corian*



lapdog said:


> I have access to alot of 1/2" Staron solid surface material.  Should the pen blank glue-up be shiny side to shiny side or dull side to dull side.  I found some instruction on the internet but it did not clearly answer this question for me.  I am interested in minimizing any visible seam.  Thanks for any help.




I have had success with Corian as follows.
1.   Clean shiny sides with denatured alcohol.
2.   Apply medium ca glue to shiny side of one blank.
3.   Rub other side shiny side to shiny side to evenly coat both blanks.
4.   Clamps as may clamps as possible - i.e. right next to each other.
5.   Allow to set overnight.
6.   Cut blank a little long.
7.   Drill blank for tube and do not drill all the way through 
(I have split the blank when drilling all the way through)
8.   Cut the blank open on tablesaw.
9.   Glue tube in - square - turn - finish


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## lapdog (Feb 17, 2010)

Jeff,
I just finished my 1st Staron attempt using most of your procedure.  It came out great.  The seam entirely disappeared to the naked eye as soon as I started turning (before even polishing).  The only difference that I did was the following:
I put plenty of medium CA on each half and spread it out using a piece of wax paper.  I then put the (2) pieces together, wrapped the whole thing in wax paper and clamped.
I am looking forward to using this material again.
Thanks for your help.


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## shadow man (Feb 17, 2010)

I am lucky we make solid surface as well as granite, marble, and laminate countertops in our shop so I have the factory adhevises to use. The trick is to use as many clamps as possible. The tighter it is glued together the less likely you will be able to see the joint after it is turned. The best clamps I have found are the 2" aligator clips. Home depot in my area has them for .99 cents apiece.
Good luck
George


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## jeffnreno (Feb 18, 2010)

lapdog said:


> Jeff,
> I just finished my 1st Staron attempt using most of your procedure.  It came out great.  The seam entirely disappeared to the naked eye as soon as I started turning (before even polishing).  The only difference that I did was the following:
> I put plenty of medium CA on each half and spread it out using a piece of wax paper.  I then put the (2) pieces together, wrapped the whole thing in wax paper and clamped.
> I am looking forward to using this material again.
> Thanks for your help.



Glad to help - Post a pic of the pen if you get a chance.


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