# Do I need a buffing wheel



## MIC (Nov 20, 2009)

I am thinking about trying CA glue as a finish but I do not have a buffing wheel.  Are there any other alternatives to buff without a wheel?  If so please let me know!
 
Thanks


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## dennisg (Nov 20, 2009)

A buffing wheel isn't necessary. Sand and use MM then either plastic polish or Brasso while the blank is still on the lathe. I find that using the buffing wheels just makes a quicker job.


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## Lenny (Nov 20, 2009)

I've been thinking about setting up a buffer myself (I have the stuff, just haven't done it yet).
So far I've had good luck with CA followed by BLO. Alternating back and forth and then finishing up with EEE-ultrashine. 
I need to give the buffing wheel a try, though. Maybe this weekend... or next... =0)
Why put off till tomorrow what you can put off till next week!


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## ed4copies (Nov 20, 2009)

When you set up the wheel, you'll give thanks for all the direction you have received.

Do it next Thursday!!


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## mtup (Nov 20, 2009)

I started to design a buffing wheel system but discovered the CA activator.  I put 3 coats of CA on wood and activator each time.  Use steel wool lightly while running at 2000 rpm to take out any lines then the MM.  High gloss by the time you get to 12000 grit.


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## dustmaker (Nov 20, 2009)

I sometimes like to use the white diamond on the buffing wheel.  Probably 50/50 on that and using Hut Ultra Gloss plastic polish.  They both do a great job.  As others have said, if you are using micro mesh, then there is not much work for the buffer to do.


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## TerryBlanchard (Nov 20, 2009)

I have turned for four years and never buffed until about a month ago, would not turn without buffing.  I mm to 12000 and polished and thought I had a good finsih and shine  Buffing just FINISHES the process in my opinion.


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## Chief Hill (Nov 20, 2009)

I just ca glue. MM to 12000, plastic polish while on the lathe.  Never even used my buffing wheel.  It's just faster to do it while it's all set up on the lathe.  Why spend tge extra$$$$ it looks the same if you know what your doing.


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## dogcatcher (Nov 20, 2009)

This what I use, a half inch bolt with the head cut off, 2 washers and 2 nuts and a buffing wheel I picked up at the hardware store and white diamond.  Wheel, bolt and nuts cost less than $5.   With a drill chuck or collet chuck in the headstock and the tailstock as support you have a good buffer.












I have a complete set of them, all 3 from the Beall compounds and wax and then several of the metal buffing compounds for my knife work.  It only takes a few seconds if you use a keyless drill chuck to change from one to the next.  I usually save up a dozen or so pieces for buffing so I am not wasting time switching it out from one compound to the next.  With as many wheels as i have they are all marked so they do not get crossed up.


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## fernhills (Nov 20, 2009)

I have not buffed for the last 40 years of woodworking. Don`t know why, but i bought the buffing system that you mount on a motor from Beale. I think it is just the cats meow!!  Carl


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## MIC (Nov 21, 2009)

Thanks for all you input.  I have the MM and some HUT...I'll try some CA soon.


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## writestuff (Nov 22, 2009)

*Buffing??*

I have a buffing sys, but lately I've gone back to MM and a final polish with paper towel charged with auto body polish. I turn up the speed, and apply the stuff with hand pressure around the Blank. 
WS.


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## MIC (Nov 24, 2009)

writestuff said:


> I have a buffing sys, but lately I've gone back to MM and a final polish with paper towel charged with auto body polish. I turn up the speed, and apply the stuff with hand pressure around the Blank.
> WS.


 
That sounds like a good idea...I will try that.


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## intillzah (Nov 26, 2009)

writestuff said:


> I have a buffing sys, but lately I've gone back to MM and a final polish with paper towel charged with auto body polish. I turn up the speed, and apply the stuff with hand pressure around the Blank.
> WS.



I do the same thing too, and the finish turns out really nice...


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## MDEdwards (Nov 26, 2009)

My method evolved because I'm cheap and have made fibergalss parts for boats.
After CA/BLO for 5+ coats, wet sand 600 through 1500, 3M compound/polish on the lathe. After assembly that expensive wax from England(Renisance) that smells like Kiwi shoe polish.
 I have an unopenned pack of Micro Mesh. MM are good, but slower IMHO. I do like Bounty half-sheet paper towels for these processes.
The final finish is 'plastic' in looks and feel. Maybe too glossy. For me that is a problem on some wood pens, like the flags, I am considering using polyurathane spar varnish for the color and tactile difference(in my mind anyway).


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