# BLO only finish?



## qquake (Nov 5, 2015)

Has anyone done a boiled linseed oil only finish? This is a Thailand rosewood blank for a Knurl GT pen. So far, I've only put BLO on it, and I really like the sheen. I'm not too keen on CA finishes, and normally I would finish it with some sort of clear spray lacquer or enamel. But I love how this looks. I'm just not sure how well it would hold up.


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## jttheclockman (Nov 5, 2015)

Won't hold up. But here is the thing, the wood you use is an oily wood and will always have some patina to it just from the natural oils of our skin. But being there is no filling of the grain with a finish it will have a tendency to collect dirt and eventually the pen looks grungy. 

Now with that said, when people like to feel the natural feel of wood there are ways of doing this. I prefer to use Danish oil. Danish oil is basically blo with polyurethane in it which gives the protection. This polishes to a very nice sheen. I have shown many examples of this on there things that I make other than pens. Will it wear off, possibly but last a lot longer than just blo. I never really did a wear test on pens and the ones I have made for clients have never returned so I have not tracked them. Polyurethane is strong stuff.


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## qquake (Nov 5, 2015)

Do you mean Watco Danish Oil?

Watco 1 pt. Natural 275 VOC Danish Oil-265502 - The Home Depot


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## Indiana_Parrothead (Nov 5, 2015)

Like John said if you like the look and feel of a natural wood the Watco Danish oil is very good. Another thing that you can try and has been discussed here is Tru-Oil like is used for gun stocks. With either the Danish Oil or the Tru-Oil it will take a long time to cure. Tru-oil will take a couple of days to cure while multiple coats of Danish oil may take up to a week to fully cure.

Also with Danish oil be very careful of the rags you use, it is notorious for spontaneous combustion. 

Mike


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## Charlie_W (Nov 5, 2015)

Note: Danish Oil ( or any pure oil) needs to soak in and does take a long long time to dry. 
The product previously mentioned is Danish Oil Finish. This is a mixture of the oil and probably a polyurethane as mentioned. These are drying types of finish. You can recoat later in the day or next day and actually build up a finish on the pen. Just depends on how much you put on.

You can buff these finishes after a while....several days. It also needs to dry and cure. Buffing before cured can heat it up and it can get gummy and make a mess.


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## Akula (Nov 5, 2015)

you could try tung oil (packaging will usually clearly state if it is pure tung oil..avoid the false products as some have zero tung oil..and also the warning of spontaneously combustion in rags)

it's a slower process but nice imo


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 5, 2015)

Tru-Oil, tung oil (the real stuff), blo, danish oils, etc...

They are definitely a longer finishing technique to do properly. I use Tru-Oil for a specific finish for a customer and to do it properly takes several days. Do some digging around for guys who do finish work on gun stocks, knife scales, pipes, etc... Lots of methods that can be applied to pens that you may not have thought of before.

They can all look great when finished and have varying degrees of durability and longevity and also act completely different depending on the wood used.


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## robertkulp (Nov 5, 2015)

I like to use BLO and thin CA. The thin CA gives a lot more protection than just BLO, but it doesn't build up to a glass/plastic finish like medium CA. Plus, you can leave it alone for a nice "natural" finish or buff it out some for a higher sheen.


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## Wildman (Nov 6, 2015)

I have never worked with Thailand Rosewood, and never really found much information on characteristics of that wood.  

I am unanimous in my opinion BLO in not a good finishing material whether by itself or with a top coat of other finish.  BLO darkens wood offers no protection.  BLO will also cause mildew outdoors. 

Basically saying many people will disagree with me & opinion of BLO many of those same people would recommend using oil varnish blend. 

Both poly’s & varnish’s made from resin compounds today while chemically different still talking about resins!  

Pure oils referred to as penetrating finishes linseed, Tung, & walnut are drying oils.  Only Tung oil provides any protection if apply enough coats.  This is the finishing schedule for a pure oil finish not an oil/varnish blend: Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year forever after!  If follow this finishing schedule apt to wind up with a gummy mess!  Cannot depend upon any these oils to dry in one day without use of solvent/thinner! 

What everyone is recommending is an oil varnish blend, Have used both products and like them although don’t buy them today.

Check  Watco Danish Oil’  SDS & tech data sheet:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/bc/bce22907-3514-43fb-a693-cf8d5d6c647f.pdf

http://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Di.../English/CBG/Watco/WAT-02_Danish_Oil_TDS.ashx

Watco Tung OIL’s SDS & tech data sheet

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/266634.pdf

http://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Di...lish/CBG/Watco/WAT-09_Watco_Tung_Oil_TDS.ashx


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## Wildman (Nov 6, 2015)

At the end of the day, if you are happy with look & feel of your BLO finish stay with it on this pen but might look into oil varnish finish in the future.  Only real advantage with many OVB finihes is sheen and ease of application!


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## robutacion (Nov 6, 2015)

Well, oil finishes are know to be severely affected by any sort of liquids, including fingerprints acidity and many others.

My suggestion is that, if you want the wood to have a "natural" look, touch and durability, you will achieve that by stabilizing you wood.

With stabilized wood, the only thing you require to do is sand it smooth and polish it, the satin finish will show and most of all, the wood couldn't have a better protection...!

Not all woods need stabilization, particular if the wood is already dense and you want to give it a CA coat or varnishes, etc., but when it comes to that natural look/touch we all know what is all about, stabilisation gives by far, a better result...!

Cheers
George


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## jeff3285 (Jan 1, 2016)

I have tried many times to use ca and I hate the fumes,,even with blo,,so yesterday I was playing around with a bottle stopper and I tried everything,,blo with ca,,just ca,,and it kept building up plus jerking the paper out of my hand,,i noticed I had a bottle of 495 Loctite super glue that I had brought home from work,,i applied it,,didn't have anything to lose,,not only did it apply great,,not much fumes,,but you could put it on and continue rubbing it in without it jerking the paper towel out of your hand,,i put 6 coats on it and never sanded and its as smooth as glass,,plus used one step to buff it,,i was amazed,,,to say the least,,and I applied it around 800 rpm,,


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