# Matching a Rifle Stock Stain



## JonathanF1968 (Feb 23, 2019)

I'd like to make a pen for someone and match the wood to his rifle stock. (Bullet kit.) The rifle is an old Mini 14, about 50 years old. Something like this: 



https://www.gunsamerica.com/948140436/Ruger-Mini-14-Standard-rifle-in-223-caliber.htm


(That's the right model, but not the actual piece in question.)



As I understand it, those stocks were usually birch, but somehow stained or otherwise colored to fake walnut. The owner of this firearm thinks it is maple, but I'm not sure he's right, as I've only heard mention of birch stocks on that model. That said, I have some maple lying around but no birch....



How would you approach this?


----------



## More4dan (Feb 23, 2019)

I’d try to match it with some actual walnut.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


----------



## dogcatcher (Feb 23, 2019)

Like you said, they are birch stocks that have been dyed.  No where close to looking like a real walnut stock.  I would get some birch and or maple and start testing dyes to get close, or get a good picture of the stock and take it to a furniture restorer and ask him/her if they can match the shade.  In my opinion the latter will be the cheaper route.    

Other?  Research dye to match the Ruger, someone may have a detailed description  of how to match the color.


----------



## dogcatcher (Feb 23, 2019)

Your answer is in this link.  https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330029


----------



## JonathanF1968 (Feb 24, 2019)

dogcatcher said:


> Your answer is in this link.  https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330029




Thanks, the gist of that thread was Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut, 5 or 6 coats (after a coat of oak stain, which I wonder if it really matters).  He then uses polyurethane. 



Haven't used Minwax stains in turning before, and don't know how it would hold up to use as a pen. Anyone have tips for that? Just carnuba wax it afterwards, I guess, rather than polyurethane?


----------



## dogcatcher (Feb 24, 2019)

I would work on the match of the stain, then do a CA finish.  First I would skip the mixed stain with poly, use just the stain and finish as usual.


----------



## MiteyF (Feb 24, 2019)

Can't help for matching the wood, but another choice for finish would be Tru Oil, which is manufactured for gun stocks. I use it on a lot of projects and really love the finish. It is time consuming (one thin coat per day) but builds slowly and evenly, with a really wonderful finish.


----------



## dogcatcher (Feb 25, 2019)

Take a picture of the rifle stock and go a paint store like Sherwin Williams, tell them you want oil stain that will match the picture and that you will be using it on maple or birch wood.  You might have to buy 2 cans of stain, and test mix a few times to get close.  You do not want a stain and finish combination, only the stain.


----------



## KLJ (Feb 25, 2019)

My local paint store has perfectly matched things for me before. I take some of the wood I am using and what I need to make it look like. They take the die and mix their own stain. The man that works there likes the challenge and will take the time to get it right usually 15 to 45 minutes. Sand the scrap piece you take to the same that you will be finishing your work, I have had it respond different based upon a piece being turned and ready to finish then just a piece it came from. Maybe you can find a person and place like this near you.


----------



## JRK (Mar 1, 2019)

Rockler Woodworking has a display that shows different stains they sell and what it looks like on a couple of different woods.

I took a sample of the existing trim that I had removed for comparison.

I had some success matching trim boards in my house with this.  They have water based and oil based stains.  The water based stain did not come out like the display -- maybe I did something wrong.

The oil Based Pecan came pretty close to the trim in the house.  I was happy with the result.

Jerry


----------

