# Shop Made carbide tool



## Dale Allen (Dec 27, 2014)

This is one of those..."why didn't I do this a long time ago" situations.
I have about $28 in this and that includes the drill bit and tap along with the $14 EWT blade.  I ordered some blades from Capt Eddie but they are not here yet and I was itchin to do this.
It cuts super great and I am using the unhandled tool to make the handle.
I will make more!


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## wob50 (Dec 27, 2014)

Looks great . what size bar stock and  material its made of. Cause you mite have a few sold lol


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## Dale Allen (Dec 27, 2014)

The bar is 1/2" 1018 from McMaster at about $4 per foot.
I got a carbide tipped drill bit but it really wasn't necessary.
A good standard bit would drill it, but I like overkill!


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## Cavediver (Dec 27, 2014)

Very nice Dale!  I'd like to give this a try in the next week or two.  What's with the shrink wrap(?)?


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## Dale Allen (Dec 28, 2014)

The shrink tubing is an attempt to save on bandaids in case I absent mindedly attempt to wipe off the end like I do with my standard tools.
It is proving to wear off quickly on the bottom and is somewhat troublesome in that it drags too much along the tool rest.
I'll have to try something else.


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## Waggoner (Dec 28, 2014)

Very nice. How did you cut the recess for the carbide tip? I would like to see some pics of the finished product when its done.


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## Dale Allen (Dec 28, 2014)

Standard bench grinder was used to shape the end.  
Take it slow and check it often to see if it is flat.
Also, I know you are not supposed to use the side of the grinding wheels but hey, it works better than the curved front.
I also knocked off the corners of the section that goes inside the handle.  That allowed me to use my 43/64th drill bit for a tight fit.


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## Cavediver (Dec 28, 2014)

Dale Allen said:


> The shrink tubing is an attempt to save on bandaids in case I absent mindedly attempt to wipe off the end like I do with my standard tools.
> It is proving to wear off quickly on the bottom and is somewhat troublesome in that it drags too much along the tool rest.
> I'll have to try something else.



I'm glad there are smart folks like you setting good examples.  As a new turner, that's a point I wouldn't have considered until it was way too late...  :biggrin:
Thanks!


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## alankulwicki7 (Dec 28, 2014)

wob50 said:


> Looks great . what size bar stock and  material its made of. Cause you mite have a few sold lol



I made one of these a few years ago but I used a piece of 1/2" key stock for mine. You should be able to find it at most hardware stores. McMaster is great if you are ordering a few things but since I just needed the one piece I was able to save on shipping buy going to Home Depot


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## BSea (Dec 28, 2014)

Dale Allen said:


> The shrink tubing is an attempt to save on bandaids in case I absent mindedly attempt to wipe off the end like I do with my standard tools.
> It is proving to wear off quickly on the bottom and is somewhat troublesome in that it drags too much along the tool rest.
> I'll have to try something else.


Don't worry, after a few minor cuts, you'll adjust.  At least I did.  And you really need for it to slide easily on the tool rest.


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## Dale Allen (Dec 28, 2014)

Doug, I know enough about metal types to know that the stuff they use to make key stock is usually A36 grade and can have everything from a washing machine to old bridge steel in it.  They also sometimes have some really hard sections that can quickly destroy tools.  The 1018 is a grade above that and is generally made better.  Costs a bit more but is way more stable.
BTW, it is also a good idea to grind off the surface of where you are gong to drill because sometimes the skin has hardened somewhat from the forming process.


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## Rockytime (Dec 28, 2014)

Very nice. I made a couple with 12L14. Great stuff if you can get it.


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## Dale Allen (Dec 28, 2014)

Les, that is also a good choice. About the same specs and just a bit more dinero.
The lead added would make it easier to turn if you are turning the end round for the handle.  I don't have a metal lathe and am not brave enough to try that on my HF wood lathe!


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## MacGyver (Dec 29, 2014)

Dale, can you tell me which cutter I would need to order from Eddie? I am just getting into this type of tooling and a friend is going to start making pens (I hooked him the other day, now he wants to turn and is trying to get setup!  )
Also, any more details like thread tap size and such so I can gather materials, along with how long those bars are when you start?

I really appreciate it! A fun project, and really makes one feel awesome knowing they made their own tools!

Mac


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## monophoto (Dec 29, 2014)

MacGyver said:


> Dale, can you tell me which cutter I would need to order from Eddie?
> ---
> Also, any more details like thread tap size and such so I can gather materials, along with how long those bars are when you start?



Mac

Capt Eddie offers four basic shapes - round, square, triangles, and 'radiused square' (squares where the face is slightly rounded).

True squares are specialty tools that are great for cutting tenons or for hollowing, but they are also pretty 'catchy' - it takes skill to use them without catching.  Likewise, triangles are specialty tools used for detailed work.  

That leaves rounds and radiused squares.  Rounds are very good for hollowing and shaping coves and beads, while radiused squares are good for straight or tapered work.  So if you are focusing on pens, I suggest that you start with the radiused square shape.

The second option you have to work with is size.  In my opinion, size itself is not a magic attribute - the reason Capt Eddie offers different sizes is that he is trying to offer replacements for the cutters that come with off-the-shelf carbide tools.  If you make your own bar, you just pick a size and plan to stay with it as you eventually purchase replacement cutters.

In Eddie's catalog, he offers both 15mm and 10.7mm radiused squares, but  notes that the 15mm is a generic choice, while the 10.7 is intended  specifically to replace the cutters on an unidentified manufacturer's  tool.

When you buy cutters from Eddie, he provides the matching screws.  The key point here is that the head of the screw matches the countersink in the face of the cutter. His 15mm R2 cutters come with 10-24 screws, so you would need to drill and tap your bar for that size screw.  He doesn't specify the screw size that comes with the 10.7mm cutters, but you can easily measure the screws once you get them.

As to bars - you can buy round mild steel bar stock at most hardware stores (including Home Despot and Lowes).  That's good enough for this purpose.  The key point is that the cutter must be larger than the diameter of the bar, and the bar must be large enough to provide the strength required to withstand the forces imposed on the bar during use.  A 1/2" bar is strong enough for almost any small turning application, but you can't put a 10.7mm cutter on a 1/2" bar.  

In addition to round bars, you can also purchase bars with a square cross section, and some people get away with bars having a hollow square cross section.  However, finding those shapes is harder unless you have a convenient industrial metal suppler.  

A square bar sits flat on the tool rest.  In use, however, you may need to rotate the bar a bit, and that favors the use of a round bar.  There is one manufacturer of carbide tools in England who uses square bars, but cuts the flat for mounting the cutter across the diagonal so the cutter naturally sits at 45 deg when the bar is flat on the tool rest.

Most of the stores around here sell bar stock in 3' lengths (and occasional 4' lengths).  Sometimes you also see it precut in 1' lengths.  I usually start with a bar that is 10-12" long, and plan to embed 3" or so in the handle.  Bar stock is relatively inexpensive, so buying a 3' length when you only need 1' today is not a big issue - its something that is convenient to have in the shop.  And if you go to a specialty supplier, you can buy whatever length you want.

As others have said, you have to grind a small flat on the bar to receive the cutter.  I actually start by making a cut to the desired depth of the flat using a cut-off blade on a Dremel tool, and then grind the flat to that depth - that leaves a clean shoulder.  Also, a standard grinder will leave a curved 'flat', but if you are working with mild steel, you can make that truly flat with a file.


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## Fish30114 (Dec 29, 2014)

Monophoto, thanks for that last post. It makes it straightforward to understand what it needs to make a tool for the carbide tips. 
This makes me want to try one.


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## Dale Allen (Dec 29, 2014)

Yep, it's a Gurka!:biggrin:


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