# Double Dye and Stabilizer



## Dick Mahany

I'm about to soon begin stabilizing some burl blanks. I'd like to try and achieve the look of the double-dyed blanks that I have seen. Any recommendations for the process?

Can I add dye to the stabilizer? If so, then how is the second color added? Thanks


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## Hexhead

Where have you seen the double dyed blanks?


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## robutacion

Chevota Guy said:


> I'm about to soon begin stabilizing some burl blanks. I'd like to try and achieve the look of the double-dyed blanks that I have seen. Any recommendations for the process?
> 
> Can I add dye to the stabilizer? If so, then how is the second color added? Thanks



Yes, the Alumilite dyes are ideal for the stabilising resin...!

As for double or triple dying while stabilising at the same time, the "secret" is to not pull full vacuum and cook the blanks until the last colour is soaked so, for double dying, start with the lightest colour first, let them soak in a container.  Soaking time will depend of the wood density and the temps. experienced, icy cold temps do not soak as easy as warm temps...!

After removing the blanks from the first soaking colour, let them drain properly then, mix you second colour but, this time on the vacuum chamber, pull full vacuum until bubbles stop and then proceed with the foil wrapping and cooking.

There is a lot of playing around with double or more dying processes, the type of dye, the amount you use of it and the various ways one can use to force the dye into the wood, are endless (well, almost...!) there is no reason why one can't use the pressure pot and even the vacuum chamber to force the dyes into the wood, particularly the dense ones, regulating the amount of pressure or vacuum for each colour will determine the final results so, this is like the cat skinning story, there are many ways of doing it...!

I hope my info helps you, some how...!

Good luck.
Cheers
George


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## Dick Mahany

PSI has them.  I bought 4 of them 2 yrs ago, and just got to use them on my first pens.  They turn beautifully and finished like glass with appropriate sanding and CA/BLO.  Now I'd like to make some of my own as I have a few pieces of burl and want to experiment.


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## robutacion

Hexhead said:


> Where have you seen the double dyed blanks?



There are double and triple dyed blanks on most pen blanks stores, particularly the Buckeye Burl, which is the one most commonly used...!

Cheers
George


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## Dick Mahany

George,
Thanks much for the very useful info and quick reply!  I'm sure this will help.  
The IAP is an incredible pool of knowledge and experience and it is great fun.
Happy New Year!


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## MesquiteMan

And if you want less color mixing, go ahead and CURE the first color that you only soaked the blank with.  That will make it impervious to further colors and help keep the color separation.

I start by soaking the blanks in one color for an hour or so, then cure them.  After they have cooled down, I run them through a full vac cycle with a second color.  Then cure.  If you do as George suggest, you will still get interesting effects but the colors will be more mixed and less separated.


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## Dick Mahany

MesquiteMan said:


> And if you want less color mixing, go ahead and CURE the first color that you only soaked the blank with. That will make it impervious to further colors and help keep the color separation.
> 
> I start by soaking the blanks in one color for an hour or so, then cure them. After they have cooled down, I run them through a full vac cycle with a second color. Then cure. If you do as George suggest, you will still get interesting effects but the colors will be more mixed and less separated.


 

Thank you for the help and clarification.  I recently made my first pen:biggrin: and the colors that I wound up with were very different from what the blank looked like, but was still beautiful IMHO.  I'll post a pic showing the "before", and "as turned " pieces for comparison when I can get back into the shop (CA studio, garage :biggrin

Happy New Year.


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## SteveG

Curtis, could you clarify one point. When you cure the first color even though you have not done a vac cycle, only soaking, does that tend to act as a sealer on the blank. Just reasoning on that would suggest the second color would not penetrate into sealed wood even with the use of a vac cycle? I know this is your experience, and so I accept it works. I just want to understand the process IOT be better able to make adjustments when trying to attain different effects. Thanks.
Steve


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## MesquiteMan

Steve,

Vacuum is a powerful animal and the bit of Cactus Juice that is cured will NOT stop it from pulling the air out of the blank on the second pass.  Remember, the first soak is going to only get the Juice into the softer areas where capillary action will work.  There will still be a lot of the wood that has not had enough resin in it to completely seal it.


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## SteveG

Thanks Curtis. This little bit of valuable knowledge will probably save a number of my own "experience based" trials as I refine my double dye techniques.  Aloha
Steve


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## RerumNovarum

Curtis,
Some suggest that the first color be done with a lower vacuum pressure. Do you know if this suggestion works vs. the soaking method? And if it is applicable, do you try to remove all of the air bubbles at a lower pressure? this seems like it would cause a pump to run forever and if it worked, end up pulling full vacuum anyway? 
I tried to do some double dying this weekend and the surface colors were amazing! The inside.......NO penetration! PLEASE HELP! .......P.S. Cactus Juice RULES!


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