# Mineral spirits vs. DA



## jpford (May 5, 2016)

I'm interested in hearing opinions on the use of mineral spirits vs. DA for wipe-off/cleaning of turned blanks before, during, & after sanding. I understand that mineral spirits are petroleum-based and DA is not; DA evaporates faster than spirits, spirits has a stronger smell, etc. I've read/heard many arguments for/against one or the other or vacuum/air, but I'd like to know more about this groups' preferences and any interactions with CA finishes. Do you find that one or the other is preferred/recommended for this particular use and, if so, why? Alternatively, if you don't use either, what do you do/use?

Joel


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## Mintman (May 5, 2016)

I use DA and I'm happy with the results.  I'm not sure about mineral spirits.  I haven't tried it.


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## monophoto (May 5, 2016)

I tend to use turpentine in situations that would normally call for mineral spirits because it is a plant-based solvent rather than something derived from petroleum.

One difference between mineral spirits and DNA is that DNA contains water and will raise the grain.  That's a good thing - wiping down with DNA and the a final sanding with a gray scotchbrite pad leaves a smoother surface that plain sanding.


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2016)

Hello Joel and welcome to the site. I see you  are an old time woodworker from what your profile states. Good to have you aboard. 

As you mentioned and as you know mineral spirits is an oil based product meaning it has a low grade oil in it. Why would you want to add oil to the wood when you are finishing??? Mineral spirits can be added to paints to thin them and used for cleaning grease off machinery. Not designed to clean wood. You are asking for finishing problems if you use that even though you can get odorless MS.

The better choice is Denatured alcohol or acetone. I use the latter for cleaning oily woods. As with all chemicals in the shop read the labels on the cans and follow all safety precautions.


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## leehljp (May 5, 2016)

My experience has been this: Petroleum based material will tone the color of some woods while water/alcohol based is generally neutral in its coloring as it cleaning. Mineral spirits will tint/tone very white holly into an ivory color and will tone a bright red bloodwood with a slight orangish tone. On the other hand, petroleum based will visually bring out or pop certain grains that DA and water based cleaners don't. 

A very clear petroleum based cleaner might not affect holly or red woods, but I haven't tried them because of previous experiences several years ago.


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## low_48 (May 5, 2016)

I don't use anything until right before applying the finish, then just a blast of air if it's a porous wood. Something like hard maple I just wipe it with my fingers. I use quality abrasives and have never seen the odd grit particle left on the blank like others describe.


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## nativewooder (May 5, 2016)

I used DNA purely because I don't like the odor of mineral spirits.


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## nativewooder (May 5, 2016)

I used DNA purely because I don't like the odor of mineral spirits.


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## Curly (May 5, 2016)

Denatured alcohol (or acetone as John mentioned) because it evapourates completely. Mineral spirits leaves behind traces of oil that can interfere with the finish drying. As "proof" wipe a mirror with both and see what remains. Don't use the bathroom one unless you are single. :wink:


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## keithbyrd (May 5, 2016)

I tend to use Isopropyl alcohol - haven't had any problems with it


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## jttheclockman (May 5, 2016)

keithbyrd said:


> I tend to use Isopropyl alcohol - haven't had any problems with it





That is also good for all those little cracks and cuts in your hands as you work in the shop:biggrin::biggrin:


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## TonyL (May 5, 2016)

I use DNA, but wasn't sure why. Now, I  know why. Thanks for the questions and all of the answers. I also use acetone with a problem.


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## Wildman (May 5, 2016)

Several woodturners use MS while sanding to keep dust down, have not tried that!  

I have often wiped down a turning project using MS to remove dust also looking for scratches before applying finishing materials.  I have also used DNA for same.  These days just use water verus MS or DNA. Also use compressed air to blow off dust on many projects too. Another secret is using my dust collect while sanding and shop vac before applying a finish, whether used any products mentioned above.

Not sure where can find organic turpentine other than art supply store!  Both organic & rectified turpentine come with a MSDS.  Same is true for MS & DNA.  So do need PPE when using these items.

Have to agree with Hank on MS imparting color change to some wood species. Over at Wood Net same topic came up and my recommendation for better solution to DNA was brew your own alcohol in a still.  Of course that thread was removed.   U.S. Government responsible for the poison in DNA.


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## jpford (May 5, 2016)

In the past (before penturning) I always used MS for wipe downs and never had an issue with it, probably because i tended to use oil-based finishes.  With CA and BLO+CA finishes, I was never sure what effect it might have. I have used acetone and DNA, both of which seem fine. As many have noted, I am finding that air, by compressor or vacuum is my preferred approach these days. Less mess, less risk, more effective.

Thanks to all for the feedback! 

Joel


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