# Is there help for my bandsaw?



## CSue (Nov 21, 2009)

For a few years now I've been using a Task Force 9" Bandsaw purchased on clearance.  It isn't much.  But it has worked well for my needs.  Today the motor died.  

What I want to know is if someone knows if there is a place I can get a replacement motor.  2.5 amp; 1720 RPM; 60Hz . . . 

Or am I stuck with having to get a new bandsaw?


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## titan2 (Nov 21, 2009)

Check your 'Yellow Pages', you should be able to find a place to rewind the motor.  Also, check the starter.

Keep us posted on your results......


Barney


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## NewLondon88 (Nov 21, 2009)

Did the motor really die or did it stop? Could be salvageable without replacing
the motor..


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## Gary Max (Nov 22, 2009)

There are some real REAL good deals on tools right now.


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## randyrls (Nov 22, 2009)

CSue said:


> For a few years now I've been using a Task Force 9" Bandsaw purchased on clearance.  It isn't much.  But it has worked well for my needs.  Today the motor died.
> 
> What I want to know is if someone knows if there is a place I can get a replacement motor.  2.5 amp; 1720 RPM; 60Hz . . .
> 
> Or am I stuck with having to get a new bandsaw?




Cathy Sue; You can probably get a good deal on the motor. Check Craigslist, ebay, and surplus center. You need to pay careful attention to the NEMA code on the motor. The NEMA code determines not only the specs for the motor, but the physical characteristics, ie mounting, spacing, and shaft diameter and length. It will be something like "56H"

But these motors are very reliable and should run for thousands of hours. Before you replace the motor, check the fuse, make sure the power switch is passing current.

UNPLUG the band saw, and check the switch contacts for continuity to make sure it isn't the power switch.

Does the motor hum, or groan? Most of these motors have a "start capacitor" or "centrifugal start switch". If this stops working, the motor will not start, but will make a low pitched hum or growl. To check this, remove the saw blade and spin the drive wheel by hand. Don't let this continue for long periods, as the motor will burn up.

If you aren't comfortable around electricity, ask someone local to check it for you.

Of course the easiest thing is to get a new band saw,  			  			 			and this may be your best bet.


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 22, 2009)

Flea markets, antique shops, auctions, garage sales, etc.
Since yours is a small bandsaw, motors from appliances should work fine. Check appliance dealers. They probably have a couple dozen washers, refrigs, etc. in back they would let you take one from.


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## mredburn (Nov 22, 2009)

IF you or someone close to you that is handy you can sometimes adapt other motors to your needs.:biggrin:  Although its always better to replace things that fail with original parts some times any ole thing you have laying around will work. Like this ridgid band saw I have.


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## KenV (Nov 22, 2009)

I have never seen that brand -- but 10 amps is 1 HP in most honest equations - so you are looking for a 1/4 hp motor.  That is in the easy to find size range.   I ran a sears 80 inch for years with a 1/4 hp motor (Just could not hog anything).   

As note above you may be able to repair,  

You will want to know the shaft size, and RPM and the mounting pattenr (NEMA Codes help with this) to get a replacement with the least hassle.  You can use a larger motor if it can be made to fit -- say a 1/3 hp.   

I note That Surplus Center has 1/3 hp 1750 reversable AC motor for $70 plus shipping.  I have had success with salvaged motors from washers and as they are 110 volt motors about 1/4 hp.  sometimes have to be creative for mounting -  

The key question is how much time do you want to spend restoring this saw, vs throwing money at a replacement.   I do understand the use of sweat equity to replace cash flow.   I tend to restore as long as there is a function.

Free Cycle is a good place to look for motors also -  like craig list but expectation is FREE reuse of workable things.  Allows you to post a want (1/4 HP motor).


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## BigShed (Nov 22, 2009)

If it is a capacitor start motor, they have a big hump on the outside of the casing, then it is most likely the capacitor.

They fail without warning and their lifespan is unpredictable, they don't cost much to replace, either in parts cost or labour.

Just take it to your local electric motor repair place and let them have a look at it.


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## CSue (Nov 22, 2009)

Great guys!  So tomorrow's light, I'll check it out and see whats what.  I guess I'll just take the motor off the bandsaw to see about replacing it.

For a few weeks, when I turn it on, I've had to kind of give the blade a quick tug down to get the wheels spinning.  Then it worked fine as long as I kept the motor on.  It was kind of like priming the pump.  But the other day, the tugging didn't get it going.  I opened the cover (This is the DONT DO THIS AT HOME thing, I think.)  and gave the upper wheel a spin.  That worked a few times.  Then it all just quietly quit.  No moans, no groans.  I have the impression the motor just died of over work.  I've really cut a ton of blanks with it over the years!


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## NewLondon88 (Nov 22, 2009)

Just out of curiosity .. have you opened up the switch? (unplug, of course)

A lot of times, sawdust can get in there and interfere with the contacts. But if you
tap it or bump it, it can sometimes make intermittent contact like you describe.
It should come out with two screws, maybe four. Keep track of where the wires go, 
and open up the switch itself. (probably one or two more screws) if the contacts
look black or you can see sawdust, cleaning them off might be all you need.

Worth a shot..


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## KenV (Nov 22, 2009)

That behavior of the "tug to start" sound familiar of the blown starting capaciter (sp)  --  but it has been a few years.

Good place to start as those are low cost and easy to replace.


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## philb (Nov 23, 2009)

Another one that says check the switch, mine is forever filling with sawdust no matter how much extraction!

It seems to give the same problem you describe, just give it a tap, or open up and suck out the dust!

PHIL


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## CSue (Nov 23, 2009)

Okay.  Tomorrow/today when I'm up, I'll take a closer look at the switch.  I'll let ya'll know.  Thanks


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## jaeger (Nov 23, 2009)

Sue,
I just recently had very similar problems with my Craftsman band saw. It turned out that the set screw holding the pulley on the shaft of the motor had come out. Shine a flashlight on the pulley, if the shaft is turning you have the same easy to fix problem.





CSue said:


> Great guys!  So tomorrow's light, I'll check it out and see whats what.  I guess I'll just take the motor off the bandsaw to see about replacing it.
> 
> For a few weeks, when I turn it on, I've had to kind of give the blade a quick tug down to get the wheels spinning.  Then it worked fine as long as I kept the motor on.  It was kind of like priming the pump.  But the other day, the tugging didn't get it going.  I opened the cover (This is the DONT DO THIS AT HOME thing, I think.)  and gave the upper wheel a spin.  That worked a few times.  Then it all just quietly quit.  No moans, no groans.  I have the impression the motor just died of over work.  I've really cut a ton of blanks with it over the years!


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 23, 2009)

CSue said:


> Great guys!  So tomorrow's light, I'll check it out and see whats what.  I guess I'll just take the motor off the bandsaw to see about replacing it.
> 
> For a few weeks, when I turn it on, I've had to kind of give the blade a quick tug down to get the wheels spinning.  Then it worked fine as long as I kept the motor on.  It was kind of like priming the pump.  But the other day, the tugging didn't get it going.  I opened the cover (This is the DONT DO THIS AT HOME thing, I think.)  and gave the upper wheel a spin.  That worked a few times.  Then it all just quietly quit.  No moans, no groans.  I have the impression the motor just died of over work.  I've really cut a ton of blanks with it over the years!



OK, now that is a great clue. If it is a TEFC motor, meaning 'totally enclosed fan cooled', you might (probably) just have a dirty centrifugal switch on the fan. Easy to remedy. Just take off the shroud at the end, only a couple screws hold it on. Then clean what you see inside. A brush, compressed air, if you have it. Spray with WD-40 and try. With my old lathe, I had to do this once in seven years. Very possible this simple fix is all you need.


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## CSue (Nov 24, 2009)

Update - jaeger, no problem with the pulley set screw.

NewLondon88, I opened the switch box and found one wire off.  I put it back on but it didn't help.  I'm thinking I might have accidentally pulled it off when I opened it up.

Rifleman, I've cleaned every where I have access but I haven't cleaned inside the motor.  I'll do that tomorrow.

Gary Max, your suggestion is looking better and better.  Maybe early Friday . . .


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## BigShed (Nov 24, 2009)

CSue said:


> Great guys!  So tomorrow's light, I'll check it out and see whats what.  I guess I'll just take the motor off the bandsaw to see about replacing it.
> 
> For a few weeks, when I turn it on, I've had to kind of give the blade a quick tug down to get the wheels spinning.  Then it worked fine as long as I kept the motor on.  It was kind of like priming the pump.  But the other day, the tugging didn't get it going.  I opened the cover (This is the DONT DO THIS AT HOME thing, I think.)  and gave the upper wheel a spin.  That worked a few times.  Then it all just quietly quit.  No moans, no groans.  I have the impression the motor just died of over work.  I've really cut a ton of blanks with it over the years!



Still sounds like the start capacitor to me.


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## Bobalu (Nov 24, 2009)

I'm not familiar with that brand, but it's likely built by some company in China that makes the same design saw for several other, better known brands. You might try the place I go to for power tool parts. Here is the link:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/

The curious thing I find about buying replacement motors is they often cost as much as the complete power tool. My Ridgid TS-3650 table saw cost me about $500 new. A replacement motor is about $480. Doesn't make sense. Maybe this is how they get you to upgrade every 5 years or so. Good luck.

Bob in GA


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## Rifleman1776 (Nov 24, 2009)

CSue said:


> Update - jaeger, no problem with the pulley set screw.
> 
> NewLondon88, I opened the switch box and found one wire off.  I put it back on but it didn't help.  I'm thinking I might have accidentally pulled it off when I opened it up.
> 
> ...



Not really inside motor. Just inside the shroud at the end. Good luck.


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## randyrls (Nov 24, 2009)

KenV said:


> That behavior of the "tug to start" sound familiar of the blown starting capaciter (sp)  --  but it has been a few years.
> 
> Good place to start as those are low cost and easy to replace.



Yep; that is EXACTLY the symptom of a blown start capacitor.  A motor shop will be able to replace the capacitor for a few bucks.


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## Len Shreck (Nov 24, 2009)

I have a GREAT idea. :biggrin: Just send the band saw to me, since I dont have one, and go buy a new one...lol :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:  Good luck with it. Len


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## bradh (Nov 24, 2009)

I had a little saw like that at the start, so I have to ask why replace the motor? Mine used to stall out so easy, it was a pain to use. 
   I eventually found a used 3/4hp 14" bandsaw and could not believe how much better it cut.
   I seem to remember I blew the capacitor on that little saw too. Likely from always stalling and restarting, that puts a heavy load on the capacitor. I had a couple motors on hand that I had pulled from an old furnace and an old washing machine. I took the closest match capacitor out of one of the motors and it worked fine for the last year I had that saw. 
  I sold the little saw after I bought the big one, only cost me $40 difference to move up.


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## CSue (Nov 25, 2009)

Thank you all so much for your help.  My brain was working better today.  So I went out and spent some quality time taking apart the whole thing and cleaning it all.  The drive belt was a bit loose.  There was alot of saw dust in the fan end of the motor.  

When I put it back together (minus the blade) it turned right on and worked GREAT!  Now the blade is on and I'm back in business, so to speak.

Oh, I had to play with the wires to the switch a bit.  One of them was a bit too short to make a solid connection.  All in all, I thank all of you because you all taught me another lesson on my tooling road.  Much appreciated.


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## mywoodshopca (Nov 25, 2009)

CSue said:


> and gave the upper wheel a spin


 

If you ever do this, please use a stick at least 4 ft long.. NEVER get your hand or fingers anywhere near the blade..


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## Len Shreck (Nov 25, 2009)

Congrats !!!! WAY TO GO !!! on getting your saw back running. I guess I will have to wait until someone else breaks theirs and hope they just send it to me instead of trying to fix it...lol


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## KenV (Nov 25, 2009)

Congrats on the saw running, but even better on the "I did it!!" attitude and learning!!!


Always nice to have an "old friend" running again.the


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