# Anyone use a Round Nose Scraper?



## shawnmhill (Oct 6, 2010)

I have seen people saying they use skews, spindle gouges, bowl gouges, woodchucks, etc, but what about round nose scrapers? 

* Are they too hard to use?
* Do they leave a rough finish?
* Are they a pain in the tail to keep sharp?
* Hard to sharpen?
* Better for wood or acrylics?

I'm just looking for some opinions because I hear about how some people is a skew as a scraper until they actually learn to use it right.

Shawn


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## Jim Burr (Oct 7, 2010)

No, No, heck no, no, and the thicker the better, so doesn't matter:biggrin:
Once you learn how to ride the bevel, skews are great...just be aware of the handle (right hand for most...not all...sorry!!!!) at all times, it makes most of the difference. If some one says that scrapers are bad, they never learned how to use it well.


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## Fred (Oct 7, 2010)

I use my round nose scraper only in bowl work. I use my scary sharp skew as my primary tool after shaping with various other tools. I would say that my skew is the most used tool in my arsenal ... and I keep it sharp enough with the Tormek to shave the hair on my arm.


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## LarryDNJR (Oct 7, 2010)

Personally I like using them.  Anymore I do most of the work with a scraper then final touches with a skew.

I think it removes material both wood and acrylic fairly easy with much trouble.  Sharpening isn't that difficult.  I've noticed with my scrapers I don't really have to sharpen as much as I do a gouge or skew.

As for the finish you'd be surprised how it would look with just a scraper.  Go slow with nice easy passes.


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## Mac (Oct 7, 2010)

I have several and do use them,but not on pens.
If you have never used one, raise tool rest so that scraper is above center, this will help on catches and is the correct tool setup.


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## Christian (Oct 7, 2010)

One of our guys here in the UK (Brittleheart) did a recent article on turning acrylics using a negative rake scraper.  Seems to help avoid chipping etc.  I would think the finish would be too rough on wood unless you spent a lot of time and went very lightly.

I with the skew chisel users, not found anything that gives a better finish.

Chris


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## DavidSpavin (Oct 7, 2010)

Mac said:


> I have several and do use them,but not on pens.
> If you have never used one, *raise tool rest so that scraper is above center*, this will help on catches and is the correct tool setup.


?? I was always taught that a scraper should be used below center in the trailing mode. This way if you get a catch the tool is pushed away from the work piece. If the scraper is above center a catch will pull the tool in to the work piece.


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## SonOfMartin (Oct 7, 2010)

I really like using round nose scraper on pens, bowls, platters, really just about anything I turn get's the scraper at some point.

My Dad was a shop teacher for 30+ years and he taught me to turn.  The only tool he would let me use was the scraper and he taught me various techniques that gave me quite a bit of confidence when I started out.

Once I could turn pens with the scraper I/he moved on to using gouges and then skews.  

I sharpen mine (I own several) using sandpaper on a flat face in the lathe.  I use 120 grit and get the scraper sharp.  I turn hard and soft wood and find myself reaching for the scraper after I use the roughing gouge to get the wood round.

Nothing to be afraid of with the scraper.  Mine are all Benjamin's Best from PSI.


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## BigguyZ (Oct 7, 2010)

I used to use a round nose scraper from start to finish.  I just moved to a flat scraper to make it easier to turn B2B...


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## All Thumbs (Oct 7, 2010)

*Scraper*

I use to use a gouge and scraper. I tried a friends sorby spindelmaster and fell in love with this tool. I have a 1" and 1/2" and they are the only tools I use from start to finish. I have had only one catch. That was on soft wood and I was talking and not watching what I was doing. 
It comes down to what you are use to using. I have seen a turner turn a bowl with a skew from start to finish.
There are no magic tools. It takes practice no matter what tool you use.
I like the spindelmaster because it is so easy to sharpen. All you need is a diamond card and water.


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## glycerine (Oct 7, 2010)

I use one, mostly after I use the gouge to remove most of the material.  Then I'll use the scraper to get it down to size before sanding...  I find it easy to sharpen using a wolverine type jig, I just put the handle into the "v arm pocket" and roll the scraper back and forth like when sharpening a gouge.  Might not be the correct way to do it, but I find it easier than using the platform.


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## bradh (Oct 7, 2010)

DavidSpavin said:


> Mac said:
> 
> 
> > I have several and do use them,but not on pens.
> ...



Use scrapers above center inside a bowl, below center turning on the outside. The idea is if the tool catches, the tool is forced into free air rather than deeper into the wood.


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## Wood Butcher (Oct 7, 2010)

I just use my finger.


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## Mac (Oct 8, 2010)

DavidSpavin said:


> Mac said:
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> 
> > I have several and do use them,but not on pens.
> ...


 

If the tool catches no matter what the postion of the rest the handle end goes up. can we agree on this?
If so then I am right.


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## PenMan1 (Oct 8, 2010)

I only use a round nose scraper (in pen making) when I am REALLY, REALLY, intimidated by the material. It is a very slow cut and IMHO, not a very smooth cut at all.

Go to the lumber store or the big box home improvement store and get youself some cheap wood and some 1/4" copper tubing. Glue 'em up and and turn 'em with the skew until you are a black belt in SKEW. IF you buy the CA at big box, it'll cost you more than the wood and the tube.

If you plan to make wood pens, learning to use a skew chisel is a must. Just my opinion...I could be worng..wnorg..WORNG!


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## shawnmhill (Oct 8, 2010)

To All. Thank you for the inputs. I was be curious because I have never tried a scraper. I use my skews almost exclusively. I love them. I am always trying to expand my knowledge about tools and materials. Thanks agai


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## Glass Scratcher (Oct 8, 2010)

I have 4 scrapers and prefer them to anything, except perhaps my carbide insert tool, which is just a scraper, with a fancy end.


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## DavidSpavin (Oct 8, 2010)

Mac said:


> DavidSpavin said:
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> > Mac said:
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Can you explain how the handle going up makes you right ? Surely it's what happens to the cutting edge that is importent. 
When you get a catch the tool handle will go up and the cutting edge will  go down. If you have the scraper above center this will cause the edge to dig in to the work and probably ruin it. With the scraper below center you are much less likly to have a catch in the first place and the tool edge will be thrown away from the work minimising any damage.


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## greggas (Oct 8, 2010)

I love to use my scrapers on bowls, but have found that I better keep them away from wood pens due to the high percentage of blow-ups I seem to encounter.  On some PR blanks they work great such as some of Jeff's scroll blanks


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## shawnmhill (Oct 8, 2010)

One of my biggest questions is this. 
    **** Will it work really well on those d@&$ Inlace style blanks? I know scary sharp tools are the key for those but I still manage to screw them up.........a lot! Just trying to find a different technique for those.

Shawn


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## ed4copies (Oct 8, 2010)

shawnmhill said:


> One of my biggest questions is this.
> **** Will it work really well on those d@&$ Inlace style blanks? I know scary sharp tools are the key for those but I still manage to screw them up.........a lot! Just trying to find a different technique for those.
> 
> Shawn



You're using a skew, you mentioned.

Do you have them break while trying to make them round (take off the square edges)?  Or, once they are round? Turning to correct profile?


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## ToddMR (Oct 8, 2010)

I have turned inlace quite a few times.  You just plain can't be aggressive with it no matter what tool you use.  I have had lots of luck with it lately and it is because I go slow, fast rpm, and don't use much pressure.  I have used gouges, skew, and even the round nose scrapper and got good results.  Of course that was after I was doing the exact opposite and blowing chunks off all the time hehe.


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## nava1uni (Oct 9, 2010)

Round nose scrapers work fine if sharpened.  They make very short work of acrylic and inlace blanks.  I think that a very light touch is very important.


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## LarryDNJR (Oct 9, 2010)

I forgot to mention earlier.  I took a cheap harbor freight round nose scraper and ground the curve edge to a straight flat edge and put a slight under bevel on it.  I'm sure this isn't some new thing, but I like the results I get with it.  Sort of like using a skew flat but works better for me in my opinion.


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## shawnmhill (Oct 9, 2010)

ed4copies said:


> shawnmhill said:
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> 
> > One of my biggest questions is this.
> ...



Most of the time when I'm turning them to round. It has gotten frustrating. I have some gorgeous blanks from you guys (Exotics) and just afraid of ruining them.


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## TellicoTurning (Oct 10, 2010)

shawnmhill said:


> ed4copies said:
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> > shawnmhill said:
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Shawn,
You can use the round nose scraper on the plastics... they will chip.. and if you sharpen so there is a burr on them, they will cut better... I use them a lot to hog wood off some of my turnings... but on the plastics, if you will learn to use the skew from start to finish, it's much better.  I saw one of Ed's demos a few years back and he is a master at the skew and the plastics... I never touch any plastic with anything but a skew after seeing him work.


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## Shannon (Oct 10, 2010)

I'm not that good with a skew...    I tend to use it more often as a scraper.    So should I have the rest below the center line if scraping with my skew?


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## ed4copies (Oct 10, 2010)

shawnmhill said:


> ed4copies said:
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> > shawnmhill said:
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Ok, Lesson 1:  Use your sander to get them round---yes, heresy, I know, but it works!!!
A belt sanding station can take off the corners of square blanks, rapidly.

Now, if you have Dawn's resins, they do NOT turn like acrylester.  She can't get the multi-colors like the inlace products, because she does NOT make the blanks so "hot" they will set instantly and be difficult to turn.

If you have purchased some of our partners' blanks, they are also easier to turn, but I agree that you should wait until you are very comfortable with turning plastics--confidence is 75% of the battle!!

So, go turn some "Dawn's goo"--but sand off the edges so you can ENJOY turning it with your sharp skew!!!

If you have not already, you may want to look up my YouTubes on turning plastic (ed4copies)  They may help.


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