# upgraded Transfer punch set?



## jskeen (May 20, 2010)

Ok, we all know the HF transfer punch set is one of the most indispensable tools in the shop.  I've got two partial sets, having used pieces of both to grind, file flat spots on, bent a few, ect.  However, I have definitely noticed that they do not stand up too well to the abuse that we subject them too.  They mushroom, the points get squashed almost instantly, the smaller ones bend if looked at funny, ect.  I'm wondering if a GOOD set of transfer punches would be a worthy investment for situations where you might destroy a kit if the fit is not precise enough, or something like that.  Without breaking the bank.  

So... you machinist types out there, what does a good quality set of transfer punches run, and where is the best place to get one without breaking the bank?  What are the unspoken rules for care and feeding?  Am I wasting my time on this?  

How say the cognoscenti?

Thanks
James


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## Whaler (May 20, 2010)

I have the set from PSI www.pennstateind.com/store/PKDISET.html and it is holding up just fine.


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## Texatdurango (May 20, 2010)

Google "transfer punches" and you will have lots of links to visit. I just saw sets running from $8 to $69.

Just curious though, just how hard are you on tour tools? :biggrin:  I've had a set for over three years now with narry a mark on them and they are well used.  When you knock pen parts apart do you hold the pen with punch inside and bang on a table or use something to hit the punch?


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## Daniel (May 20, 2010)

James, I can think of two things right off the top of my head that might work. Neither are transfer punch sets.

The first is a selection of Drill rod. Since these are sized according to what size drill bit they will make it would be a bit of work to know just what diameters you are getting. but tempering them could give you a much harder metal rod than you have in transfer punch sets. Most drill rod I have sen comes in 3 foot lengths also so it might be something you would do with a group of a half dozen to a dozen people. In that way cost per set woudl actually be very low.

Second are engineers or machinists sizing pen sets. these are not cheap and I am not certain they make them in lengths long enough for using for pens. but they are pin sets used for getting exact measurments of various holes. I have sen ones in graduations of 10 thousandths of an inch. that is way overkill for our purposes but I mention them because they are very very hard steel. case hardened and all that fancy pants sort of stuff.

Finally simply finding a set of punches that are higher quality harder steel. but I have no idea what that is going to do price wise. If you are going to continue to modify them you are probably better of continuing with the cheapy ones from HF.


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## bradh (May 20, 2010)

I am not sure you get something different. The PSI set is very similar to the cheap set I bought from Busy Bee. The plastic case is the same shape, but a different colour and the sticker is different.


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## DCBluesman (May 20, 2010)

A better idea is to work harder at not needing them!


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## HSTurning (May 20, 2010)

For 10 bucks when I damage the ones I use most I'll just buy a replacement set.  Have a new unopened set I picked up this weekend and the beat up set I have been using.  Anythine that gets hit with a hammer I dont expect to last forever.


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## jskeen (May 20, 2010)

Texatdurango said:


> Just curious though, just how hard are you on tour tools? :biggrin:  I've had a set for over three years now with narry a mark on them and they are well used.  When you knock pen parts apart do you hold the pen with punch inside and bang on a table or use something to hit the punch?



Well, now, that depends on if you are talking about a ten cent punch, or a lovingly restored bailey #4.  Actually, I do tend to be a little rough on my toys, but that's another subject.  As for disassembling pens, I use a hammer to rap the punch while holding the part in the other hand.  I tried pressing things out, but on the few I could get a good purchase on, I seem to remember that I pressed as many tubes out of the blanks as I did components out of the tubes.  The sharp rap of a metal hammer seemed to work better than a wooden mallet, IIRC.  I never really tried your method, just because my brain tends to run in the "bigger hammer" mode most of the time, and there is seldom an uncluttered horizontal surface handy in my shop anyway.  



HSTurning said:


> For 10 bucks when I damage the ones I use most I'll just buy a replacement set.  Have a new unopened set I picked up this weekend and the beat up set I have been using.  Anythine that gets hit with a hammer I dont expect to last forever.



What brought this to mind was a previous post about breaking the plastic couplers in the cap of a csusa jr kit.  Seems that a more precise fit might minimize that problem, but finding a better way to disassemble them would be even better.  


Of course Lou has the best idea.... but that seems to take a lot of the fun out of things for some reason.


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## titan2 (May 20, 2010)

Why don't you just break out the old propane torch and temper the punches?

Heat the metal to a straw color and quince it in a container of clean veggie oil.

Works great.......



Barney


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## Whaler (May 20, 2010)

I use a brass hammer not a steel one, possibly that is why my punches are holding up.


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## randyrls (May 20, 2010)

Daniel said:


> The first is a selection of Drill rod. Since these are sized according to what size drill bit they will make it would be a bit of work to know just what diameters you are getting. but tempering them could give you a much harder metal rod than you have in transfer punch sets.




Daniel;  MSC has drill *BLANK* sets in inch, number, letter, and metric.  These are intended to make your own custom drill bits.  These are just the shaft with no flutes on them.  Pricey though.

I expect these can be hardened.


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## nava1uni (May 20, 2010)

Enco is having a sale on transfer punch sets for $7.95.  I use a wooden mallet to hit mine and then they do not mushroom, but I have an extra set for grinding and other uses.


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## airborne_r6 (May 21, 2010)

Lee Valley sells a set that is only a few dollars more than the  HF set and should be much higher quality.  (Speaking only from company reputation and practices, I dont have a set.)


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## EeyorIs21 (May 21, 2010)

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=54892&cat=1,43456

I have a set, but to be honest I do not pound on them that much. 

I just have them around for emergencies..... yeah, we'll go with that.


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## Rfturner (May 21, 2010)

My PSI Kit has lasted and held up really well. I use it much less frequently now but it is there for the times I make mistakes. I may have to use it on 1 out 25-40 pen kits.


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## DurocShark (May 22, 2010)

Are you guys using steel hammers? I use a lathe-turned wooden mallet and my punches still look like new. As much as I'd like to say I never need them, I do. Often. And occasionally I use them for what they're made for too!


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