# Micro Mesh question



## Randy Simmons (Jul 19, 2012)

I have been using my micro mesh sheets for quite a while now. They are the cloth-backed stuff, so you can just wash it out and reuse it, but I have started to notice that not _all_ of the CA dust gets out every time. Is there a general rule of thumb when it comes to the lifetime of this stuff?


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## renowb (Jul 19, 2012)

I use the spongy type MM. You can wash them in the washing machine. When I notice the finish not coming out right, I will buy new ones. JMHO.


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## SteveG (Jul 19, 2012)

The abrasive in MM wears and clogs, just like any other abrasive. It is washable, so can be refreshed that way, but the wear-out factor is still there. You are your own best gauge. Compare a used piece to a new. Major difference! I have been making a living at woodworking for decades, and have a great disdain for spending more time than is necessary when sanding. I go fresh on the abrasives just as soon as I notice any significant fall off in performance. There are those here on the forum that are of the opinion that MM ALMOST lasts forever. I personally think they just like to spend their time sanding a lot more than I do.


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## bradh (Jul 20, 2012)

A good trick to use to keep the MM clean between washings is wipe it down on a denim rag. For some reason a quick wipe on denim removes most of the CA dust off the pads.


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## alamocdc (Jul 21, 2012)

If you don't let it get to clogged between cleanings it will last a long long time. I'm still using the same MM that I bought in 2004! And the set I use for wet sanding looks even better.


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## nativewooder (Jul 21, 2012)

I do sanding up thru 2000 grit with 2" discs.  The MicroMesh I use for polishing and I have one set that is 6-8 years old.  The only way you can know it is not working is when it doesn't polish like it used to when it was new.


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## Rifleman1776 (Jul 23, 2012)

SteveG said:


> The abrasive in MM wears and clogs, just like any other abrasive. It is washable, so can be refreshed that way, but the wear-out factor is still there. You are your own best gauge. Compare a used piece to a new. Major difference! I have been making a living at woodworking for decades, and have a great disdain for spending more time than is necessary when sanding. I go fresh on the abrasives just as soon as I notice any significant fall off in performance. There are those here on the forum that are of the opinion that MM ALMOST lasts forever. I personally think they just like to spend their time sanding a lot more than I do.



I am of the almost forever crowd. I have two sets of MM. One has never been used. I just toss in with the laundry when it gets clogged/dirty. Still cuts/sands like new. I don't finish with CA so cannot comment on it's viability with that.


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## SteveJ (Jul 23, 2012)

I've got a couple of sets of MM and was thinking of getting another - but I didn't even know it could be washed, so I will try that before buying another!


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## Rifleman1776 (Jul 24, 2012)

I spent the day yesterday in the shop of a friend in my woodturners club. He has never let on but he is a professional turner. Gets up to $3,500.00 for his bowls. And, he can make as many as six bowls a day before lunch.
(there is a 'pen-point' to this intro)
He uses a finishing technique with CA that gives knock-out results.
I asked this question about MM. He said the hard CA finish bends and dulls the cutting edges of the MM grit and makes the stuff virtually useless.
From a guy who has 46 years experience making a truckload of shavings a day, plus other impressive knowledge, I'll accept that with no argument.
As I try his technique I'll use Klingspore Gold as he does for most of his sanding.


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## Whaler (Jul 24, 2012)

I used MM for years and then bought a Beale buffing system, that ended my MM days.


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## farmer (Jul 25, 2012)

*mm*

I gave up using micro mesh 

1 it wears through the finish on hi spots
2 cannot polish a round surface and the surface dull compaired to other methods.

i use 5 or 6 different polishing compounds or grit rating. 

you can go up to 100,000 grit rating. it is a slow process 






farmer


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## RDH79 (Jul 25, 2012)

*MM*



SteveG said:


> The abrasive in MM wears and clogs, just like any other abrasive. It is washable, so can be refreshed that way, but the wear-out factor is still there. You are your own best gauge. Compare a used piece to a new. Major difference! I have been making a living at woodworking for decades, and have a great disdain for spending more time than is necessary when sanding. I go fresh on the abrasives just as soon as I notice any significant fall off in performance. There are those here on the forum that are of the opinion that MM ALMOST lasts forever. I personally think they just like to spend their time sanding a lot more than I do.



I agree with Steve. I am not sure how many pens I do get fininshed with a set ,but know as soon as I see that there is a difference in the time  spent sanding I get new.
MM is my polishing cloths. As long as I have the ridges and shiny spot sanded out I switch to MM. Also wet with a little bit o liquid dishsoap added
I dont like to use it dry of just the wood either. 600 sanding is high enough before appling CA. If you get it to smooth the CA has nothing to hold onto.
Works for me. As another member always says Thats my two cents worth.


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## bradh (Jul 26, 2012)

RDH79 said:


> SteveG said:
> 
> 
> > The abrasive in MM wears and clogs, just like any other abrasive. It is washable, so can be refreshed that way, but the wear-out factor is still there. You are your own best gauge. Compare a used piece to a new. Major difference! I have been making a living at woodworking for decades, and have a great disdain for spending more time than is necessary when sanding. I go fresh on the abrasives just as soon as I notice any significant fall off in performance. There are those here on the forum that are of the opinion that MM ALMOST lasts forever. I personally think they just like to spend their time sanding a lot more than I do.
> ...



I know many people are reducing the MM sanding and jumping direct to CA or buffing, but I still follow Russ Fairfields methods. Russ taught us that the grain will "pop" when we use BLO on the wood OR if we sand all the way thru the MM grits. You can read more on Russ's website, but basically Russ believed that when you sand the wood very smooth, the CA on the ultra-smooth wood causes the grain pattern to seem to jump right out at you (aka pop). I agree with Russ and I still sand to 12000 MM before CA. 
   I also still have, and use my first set of MM pads and I do not see much difference in performance from my old set to my newer set. The old set has finished at least 200 pens. I do wipe my MM pads on denium after each use, I believe keeping the pads clear is important to the life and performance of the pads.
  I agree with some comments here that the MM can be very difficult to use on anything but flat shapes. It is quite easy to sand thru the CA or damage the MM when you have beads or grooves. I still use my MM, but I keep the pads moving, use a light touch, and do not spend much time on any grit.
.....just wanted to add my 2 cents worth to the discussion. It was discussions like this that we had with Russ that convinced me to try changes in my finishing methods; and I am still learning each time one of these threads gets going. Thanks to everyone for their input!


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## kooster (Sep 27, 2012)

Any chance of finding out where you found the silver/chrome "doggie" holder?
They are great, especially if you have a bassett or hound of sorts.
Thanks for sharing.


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## lorbay (Sep 27, 2012)

I was always told by the pro's to use sandpaper as though it was someone else's. So for me 20 to 30 pens is max then get a new set. Man I can't believe some are on the same set since 2004. You need to try a new set , you will be surprised. Want my old ones.Lol

Lin.


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## Steve Busey (Sep 27, 2012)

Rather than washing, I run one of those rubber sanding erasers over the pads, and then maybe hit them with a blast of compressed air. I don't give up on them until they start to wear through the abrasive and start showing pad (usually because I let them get to hot or dry...).

I also buy the pads as as something like 3"x4", and cut them into six complete sets.


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