# Stone Pens



## Craftdiggity (Apr 4, 2010)

Happy Easter Everyone.  

I spent the day Friday turning several pens using different types of soapstone and alabaster.  I had little trouble with the softer Soapstone materials,  but the Alabaster, being a bit harder, cracks when I press in the parts.  It doesn't fall apart, and I use a penetrating epoxy to keep it from getting worse, but I'd love to know if there were a technique or two to avoid the cracking.  

I have been thinking of coming up with a way to shave a bit off the inside of the ends so that the brass tubes do not touch the stone.  I realize that I will have to turn the ends a bit thicker than usual , but I have no problem with that. 

If anyone has another suggestion I'd love to hear it.  

Chris


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## JBCustomPens (Apr 4, 2010)

You can file the parts that insert into the tubes, until they slip in with not much force, and then CA or epoxy the parts in. Hope this helps! Looking forward to seeing the pens.


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## Craftdiggity (Apr 4, 2010)

JBCustomPens said:


> You can file the parts that insert into the tubes, until they slip in with not much force, and then CA or epoxy the parts in. Hope this helps! Looking forward to seeing the pens.



Good God, I feel stupid.  That is a much better option, thanks.  I'll have some pens to post this week.

Chris


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## Lenny (Apr 4, 2010)

JBCustomPens said:


> You can file the parts that insert into the tubes, until they slip in with not much force, and then CA or epoxy the parts in. Hope this helps! Looking forward to seeing the pens.


 
I remember seeing a post where it was recommended that you could use locktite instead of CA. Can you confirm that?


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## johnnycnc (Apr 4, 2010)

I would file/ream the tubes to where the components will slip in,
and use a dab of epoxy to secure.


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## Gary Max (Apr 4, 2010)

Chris I turn a bunch of real Stone pens including white Alabaster---so far every Alabaster  has cracked-----that's just part of it being real stone. 
Heck if it didn't crack I would think it wasn't real stone.


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## JBCustomPens (Apr 4, 2010)

Lenny said:


> I remember seeing a post where it was recommended that you could use locktite instead of CA. Can you confirm that?




Yeah, you can use blue loctite if I'm not mistaken.


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## Craftdiggity (Apr 4, 2010)

Gary Max said:


> Chris I turn a bunch of real Stone pens including white Alabaster---so far every Alabaster  has cracked-----that's just part of it being real stone.
> Heck if it didn't crack I would think it wasn't real stone.



Well,  I happen to run a stone fabrication shop so I have access to anything I need to work with stone.  If I can drill the blank without it cracking, then I usually can turn it cleanly.  I actually have less of a problem with cracks that run the length of the blank than I have with the ones that result from pressing in the parts.  Little cracks at each end of a pristine pen really suck.  

Chris


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## ldb2000 (Apr 4, 2010)

Red Loctite is strong enough to hold well but is still reversible if ever necessary .


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## Lenny (Apr 4, 2010)

ldb2000 said:


> Red Loctite is strong enough to hold well but is still reversible if ever necessary .


 
So will the blue if you put a torch to it!! :biggrin:


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## Gary Max (Apr 4, 2010)

Little cracks at each end of a pristine pen really suck.

Yup that would---my Alabaster pens all have a few large long cracks.


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## Craftdiggity (Apr 4, 2010)

Gary Max said:


> Little cracks at each end of a pristine pen really suck.
> 
> Yup that would---my Alabaster pens all have a few large long cracks.



Yeah, I bet they do.  Alabaster is like that.  The thing is, I have my pick of the litter with stone.  I can get myself a high quality blank with no cracks and I can get it turned and shaped.  I just need to file down the parts so that no pressing is required and I will have some real winners here.

Chris


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## OKLAHOMAN (Apr 4, 2010)

Now the next step is avoiding having your customer DROP IT:biggrinAMHIKT.





Craftdiggity said:


> Yeah, I bet they do. Alabaster is like that. The thing is, I have my pick of the litter with stone. I can get myself a high quality blank with no cracks and I can get it turned and shaped. I just need to file down the parts so that no pressing is required and I will have some real winners here.
> 
> Chris


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## Craftdiggity (Apr 4, 2010)

OKLAHOMAN said:


> Now the next step is avoiding having your customer DROP IT:biggrinAMHIKT.



Good point.  And with the really soft soapstone, you can scratch it easily even with just a fingernail.  I think I'll put them right into a plastic tube after making them.

BTW  Do you put anything on them as a finish or polish?  I don't recommend using typical stone color enhancers for soapstone or alabaster.  I just use mineral oil.  

Chris


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