# epoxy finish?



## studioso (Oct 25, 2010)

hi,
I went to a beautiful woodworking show this past weekend here next to Montreal, and I saw a fellow which had some amazing stuff, all coated in a nice, super shiny, wet, thick coat. I asked him if it was epoxy, and he says yes, 2 parts. but he then got busy with a potential costumer, and couldn't ask him for more details.
here is the guy's web site:
http://www.jacquescouture.com/jacquescouture.com/vases.html
he had the same finish on the few pens he had at the show, although you can't see the beautiful gloss on the pen pics on the web site. but you can see what I'm talking about on the vases.

any idea what finish is this?
can you brush on a 2 part epoxy leveling pouring finish? perhaps if you keep the lathe spinning bubbles will sort of get out on their own?

what if you dip a pen into that stuff? (plugging the tube somehow?


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## soligen (Oct 25, 2010)

I dont know if its the same, but a number of years ago I fiddled with making a long bow. I never tried it, but at the time there was talk of an epoxy finish.  Basically empty both halves of the epoxy into acetone (the solvent) then brush it on.  

Sorry, I dont know any details, but google might yield something for you.


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## bitshird (Oct 25, 2010)

The guys vases are definitely shiny, that is an amazing finish. It could be catalyzed Lacquer or even a polyurethane automotive finish, there used to be a paint called Imron that was a two part paint that was hard as could be, and had about the highest gloss around, we used to use it on our big boy toys.


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## nativewooder (Oct 25, 2010)

*Epoxy finish*

If you can find a custom fishing rod builder in your area, he can probably teach you how to do the coating.  Yes, you must keep the item turning slowly both while you are putting on the epoxy and while it is curing.  You might also need a "clean room" or some kind of container while curing to keep out the dust which is always present.  When mixing rod epoxy, you will get bubbles so I would thin the mixture with xylene which helped release the bubbles as will an alcohol lamp.  But then, I haven't built any rods since Dale Clemens went out of business and that was probably 20 years ago.  There are probably many newer materials available today.  Good Luck!


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## DJS588 (Oct 25, 2010)

You might want to look at the Nov. 2010 issue of "Woodturning" magazine or their web site www.woodworkersinstitute.com.
There is an article/tutorial on epoxy resin finishing.


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## MAB11 (Oct 26, 2010)

I've used this:
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





I picked it up at Lowes for about $20. It's a 2 part epoxy. Leaves a thick almost wet looking finish. Here's a clock I made out of a chunk of cedar.
That's the cured finish.


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## MAB11 (Oct 26, 2010)

You can use a torch lightly back and forth to bring the air bubbles out, or probably a heat gun.


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## terryf (Oct 26, 2010)

I use a 2 part called pratliglo. Its a 1:1 mix and no thinning is required. If you do get bubbles then a heat gun or hair dryer will sort it out. A spinning lathe tends to throw the resin off the pen if you apply anything other than the thinnest of layers.

http://www.kraftex.co.za/pratliglo.htm


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## robutacion (Oct 27, 2010)

Yeah, I've used it many times before, is also know as "liquid gloss" or liquid glass"...!

Not easy to work with, unless is a totally flat surface but like anything in life, you can learn how to use it in curved surfaces like pen blanks...!:wink:


Cheers
George


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## roddesigner (Oct 27, 2010)

I would advise not using rodbuilding finish, first it is not really formulated to work on wood and in some cases will peel completely off, first hand experience, Rod building epoxy is self leveling thus it needs to turn for about 3-4 hours or it will all drip off the low spot. products such as permagloss (urethane) used in rod finishing will work but you won't get a finish like the photos to many coats needed which will cause the finish to appear different when dry(eggshell) appearance.
Rumor has it a new type of finish for rodbuilding will be soon available one part but no idea if that will work on wood.


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## biednick (Oct 30, 2010)

I cast overturned pens in epoxy then turn down and polish.


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## JohnU (Oct 30, 2010)

I know a guy who runs a recurve bow business and finishes all of the wood and fiberglass bows with 2 part epoxy and spray lacquer.  He said he uses his finger to pat the epoxy on which leaves small finger print. He coats the entire bow this way then uses spray lacquer which fills in the finger prints and drys smooth. Iv been using one of his bows foe ten years now in rain and snow with no wear and it still looks brand new.  Might be worth trying on a pen.


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## jttheclockman (Oct 31, 2010)

Should I dare mention his name again but Barry Gross does his pens like this and he has a video or CD out explaining this process. You may want to check into that. He also sells the stuff he uses.


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## gketell (Oct 31, 2010)

Imron is still around.  It is used in the aircraft industry quite a bit.  
GK



bitshird said:


> The guys vases are definitely shiny, that is an amazing finish. It could be catalyzed Lacquer or even a polyurethane automotive finish, there used to be a paint called Imron that was a two part paint that was hard as could be, and had about the highest gloss around, we used to use it on our big boy toys.


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## cajun skeeter (Oct 31, 2010)

*Epoxy finish*

Emron is a little pricey for pens. I have seen many wood reel seats finished with rod epoxy, you need a low RPM turning motor (9-15 RPM) a rod drying motor could be adapted, using a wood dowel. The rodbulding forum has a large library on epoxy application. The other link is where I buy most of rod building supplies.

http://rodbuilding.org
http://www.mudhole.com/


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## cajun skeeter (Oct 31, 2010)

You might also want to try Swampland Tackle, Lance is an IAP member
swamplandtackle.com


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## AeroClassics (Nov 3, 2010)

i think what most folks are describing here is called "bar top finish". System 3 sells a product called Mirror Coat that is quite fantastic. However, it is expensive and I suspect might be fussy to apply to a pen. Bar top finishes are designed to be poured and as such have a fairly high viscosity and tend to self-level. The wet look is really fantastic. There are products of a similar nature (the name escapes me at the moment) that are designed for decoupage and the like. I have used it on plaques and the like.

I have been doing quite a lot of research of late looking for a FDA approved epoxy or polymer finish to use on goblets and mugs with out a great deal of luck. Along the way I have thought about how it would be applied to a pen or other turned objects. Dipping comes to mind but I am not sure how well that would work. Plus I do not know how well it could be polished out.

Doug


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