# Squaring Blanks



## crokett (Oct 25, 2021)

I use a lot of found wood and  antler to make pens.  The blanks I cast are also not perfectly square - the open top of the mold is frequently misshapen.   I found 1 thread on this from 2017, the pictures of the jig are no longer accessible on Photo bucket.  The rest of the blank squaring threads have to do with getting the ends square to the tube.   I'm looking for a jig I can use on a tablesaw that will hold small parts such as non-square wood or cast blanks, or even smaller pieces of antler that I can get at least square enough to drill for tubes.   The antler there is not a lot of margin for error, especially with larger tubes.  I tried making a jig but it did not work well. It did not hold the piece securely enough.  Among other things I think I need to add a base to it so the piece I want to square slides along with the jig instead of on the table.  I also need to figure out how to create enough downforce to hold the piece in place.


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## kmetzger (Oct 25, 2021)

Have you seen this thread?  https://www.penturners.org/threads/table-saw-sled-and-jig.63131/


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## crokett (Oct 25, 2021)

kmetzger said:


> Have you seen this thread?  https://www.penturners.org/threads/table-saw-sled-and-jig.63131/


Thanks.  That's perfect. Some great ideas there.  I can redesign what I have based on that.


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## magpens (Oct 25, 2021)

Please, I would like to know the details ( Part Number, if possible ) of that Incra jig. . 

Maybe it is on the Incra website but the reference is pretty old and availability changes . . . also the pic is not very clear to identify the Incra jig.

Would appreciate if either of you can give that info . . . @kmetzger , @crokett

Thanks


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## 1080Wayne (Oct 25, 2021)

Why do you need the blanks to be square before drilling for tubes ? I seldom use square blanks , mostly irregular branch wood . When I use square blanks , I often drill off center deliberately to take advantage of a grain feature . If I`m unable to hold a piece securely, I turn it more or less round between 60 degree centers first . That is the only way I`ve found to minimize the antler problem .


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## Dehn0045 (Oct 25, 2021)

I tried to cut antler on the table saw once. My setup was a bit sketchy so I wore goggles and a face shield and didn't get near the blade.  Luckily only made a hole in the wall - at that point I decided never to put antler on a table saw again.  I do what @1080Wayne suggests - I turn round then mount in a chuck (scroll or collet) then square then end with a skew and drill away (on the lathe).  You can make use of pretty small piece of antler this way because you can reposition the blank while turning round.  For the other blanks, I also don't see a need for them to be square, but a small jointing sled/jig would do the trick.


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## leehljp (Oct 25, 2021)

There is another way to arrive at that, and it does involve a way similar to what Wayne mentioned above. 






Drill the entrance and exit holes, square it after the hole has been drilled and the tube added.


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## crokett (Oct 25, 2021)

1080Wayne said:


> Why do you need the blanks to be square before drilling for tubes ? I seldom use square blanks , mostly irregular branch wood . When I use square blanks , I often drill off center deliberately to take advantage of a grain feature . If I`m unable to hold a piece securely, I turn it more or less round between 60 degree centers first . That is the only way I`ve found to minimize the antler problem .



The antler that is a large enough diameter for large tubes is nearly always curved. I find it difficult to align them to get them drilled successfully without drilling through the side of a curve or finishing too close to the edge of the blank when the drill exits the blank.  I will think about turning at least partially round to get some parallel sides for clamping.


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## crokett (Oct 25, 2021)

I have also thought about clamping them in my pen vise and using my edge trim router with a small bit to route flats on 2 sides.


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## leehljp (Oct 25, 2021)

crokett said:


> The antler that is a large enough diameter for large tubes* is nearly always curved.* I find it difficult to align them to get them drilled successfully without drilling through the side of a curve or finishing too close to the edge of the blank when the drill exits the blank.  I will think about turning at least partially round to get some parallel sides for clamping.


Unless too large, boiling for 10 minutes or so allows "some" straightening. With a vise or something - Hold it in the "somewhat straightened" position until it cools. I have done that on smaller diameter antler.


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## sbwertz (Oct 25, 2021)

leehljp said:


> There is another way to arrive at that, and it does involve a way similar to what Wayne mentioned above.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is how I do it, too.


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## crokett (Oct 26, 2021)

Thanks.  That video is a great idea.    I can also see drilling those centering holes in each end, turning it somewhat round and then finishing on the drill press.


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## Dehn0045 (Oct 26, 2021)

Use caution with drill chucks in the headstock.  A drawbar could help, but the chuck itself probably has a taper that mounts to the MT2 (or MT1 or MT3 or whatever) arbor.  The way that he demonstrates in the video appears to be pretty safe, but you don't want to pull the blank away from the headstock with the lathe spinning.  If the arbor comes loose from the headstock the chuck will pretty quickly wobble all the way out and send the chuck and drill bit flying.  When the chuck and drill are in the tailstock you can (and should) hold it secure while retracting, but you can't do that when the chuck is in the headstock.


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## sbwertz (Oct 26, 2021)

Dehn0045 said:


> Use caution with drill chucks in the headstock.  A drawbar could help, but the chuck itself probably has a taper that mounts to the MT2 (or MT1 or MT3 or whatever) arbor.  The way that he demonstrates in the video appears to be pretty safe, but you don't want to pull the blank away from the headstock with the lathe spinning.  If the arbor comes loose from the headstock the chuck will pretty quickly wobble all the way out and send the chuck and drill bit flying.  When the chuck and drill are in the tailstock you can (and should) hold it secure while retracting, but you can't do that when the chuck is in the headstock.


I saw that happen once in a woodworking store where a demo was in progress.  The chuck and bit came flying out of the headstock. Scary.  Always stop the lathe before retracting.  The guy doing the demo was fired.


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## crokett (Oct 26, 2021)

Dehn0045 said:


> Use caution with drill chucks in the headstock.  A drawbar could help, but the chuck itself probably has a taper that mounts to the MT2 (or MT1 or MT3 or whatever) arbor.  The way that he demonstrates in the video appears to be pretty safe, but you don't want to pull the blank away from the headstock with the lathe spinning.  If the arbor comes loose from the headstock the chuck will pretty quickly wobble all the way out and send the chuck and drill bit flying.  When the chuck and drill are in the tailstock you can (and should) hold it secure while retracting, but you can't do that when the chuck is in the headstock.


My drill chuck has a taper that matches my lathe headstock.  I drilled and tapped the end to use a drawbar some years ago.  Most drilling I do I have the chuck in the tailstock, but I use the drill chuck in the headstock for turning things like beer tap handles and wine bottle stoppers.  I mount a threaded arbor into the drill chuck.


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## mg_dreyer (Oct 26, 2021)

My technique on drilling deer antler and getting some outside "bark" 

Click Here For Video


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## Dehn0045 (Oct 26, 2021)

crokett said:


> My drill chuck has a taper that matches my lathe headstock.  I drilled and tapped the end to use a drawbar some years ago.  Most drilling I do I have the chuck in the tailstock, but I use the drill chuck in the headstock for turning things like beer tap handles and wine bottle stoppers.  I mount a threaded arbor into the drill chuck.


most drill chucks have a removable arbor, for example the arbor will be MT2 on one end and J6 on the other and the chuck itself has a female J6 taper for the arbor (some have an integral arbor that is not removable).  Typically the removable arbor and chuck are pretty secure - but they can break free.  As with everything, there are risks -- I just mention this because I was not aware of these risks (or design features) until I had a near miss that freaked me out, so I am probably a little more cautious than most.


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## NGLJ (Oct 26, 2021)

There are some things that I definitely would not do on a table saw. I have my trophy holes in the wall behind where I stand. For the trickier stuff I turn to the bandsaw. A well setup bandsaw will cut straight and square. I have various jigs to assist me on the bandsaw, nothing fancy. Make sure that you have a good quality carbide re-saw blade. If I need a cleaner face I cut slightly oversize and clean up on the drum sander. A good re-saw blade will give a reasonably clean cut anyway.


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## sbwertz (Oct 28, 2021)

NGLJ said:


> There are some things that I definitely would not do on a table saw. I have my trophy holes in the wall behind where I stand. For the trickier stuff I turn to the bandsaw. A well setup bandsaw will cut straight and square. I have various jigs to assist me on the bandsaw, nothing fancy. Make sure that you have a good quality carbide re-saw blade. If I need a cleaner face I cut slightly oversize and clean up on the drum sander. A good re-saw blade will give a reasonably clean cut anyway.


I have sleds for both my bandsaws and my table saw (saw at the blind center and the one at home.)


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## crokett (Nov 7, 2021)

I tried the method that @sbwertz linked to.  After the first one I modified my approach.  I set the tailstock to where fully retracted I had just enough room to get the blank off the drill bit and out.  Then I extended it to just short of the drill bit and looked at how far out it was (my tailstock spindle is marked but I'm not 100% sure it is accurate for depth).    Then I used the method in the video but instead of pushing the entire tail stock I cranked it onto the drill bit.  I was 4 for 4 today on drilling antler.  I did 1 pen on commission last week and based on that have orders for 3 more.    I also think I am going to use a slightly smaller bit since I get some runout (due to me not holding the stock perfectly steady).  I can always use the correct bit after the smaller hole is drilled to ream it.    

I will also try the drilling the ends a bit and TBC to get it somewhat in line for drilling with a chuck.


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## sbwertz (Nov 13, 2021)

crokett said:


> I tried the method that @sbwertz linked to.  After the first one I modified my approach.  I set the tailstock to where fully retracted I had just enough room to get the blank off the drill bit and out.  Then I extended it to just short of the drill bit and looked at how far out it was (my tailstock spindle is marked but I'm not 100% sure it is accurate for depth).    Then I used the method in the video but instead of pushing the entire tail stock I cranked it onto the drill bit.  I was 4 for 4 today on drilling antler.  I did 1 pen on commission last week and based on that have orders for 3 more.    I also think I am going to use a slightly smaller bit since I get some runout (due to me not holding the stock perfectly steady).  I can always use the correct bit after the smaller hole is drilled to ream it.
> 
> I will also try the drilling the ends a bit and TBC to get it somewhat in line for drilling with a chuck.


The big advantage of drilling with the bit in the headstock is when the antler has a lot of bend in it.  I have made some really pretty pens that were very crooked, and left a lot of "bark" on the antler.


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