# "Bar Top" looking finish



## HawksFeather (Jan 14, 2008)

Hi,

I make predator calls (think of a duck call for coyotes) and have had several people ask about calls with a "thick" looking finish on them - similar to bar tops.  Since bar top  finish sits and levels itself, I don't think that would work for a round call.  I have tried many of the finishes, and while getting a decent gloss finish, it is not like the build up gloss that I am looking for.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jerry


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## maxwell_smart007 (Jan 14, 2008)

Try casting the call in acrylic, perhaps??


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## LanceD (Jan 14, 2008)

2 part rod building epoxy made especially for coating threads would be what you need. You brush it on but you would have to rotate your calls until the finish sets, for at least four hours, then let it cure for a day or two for it to fully harden. I used to carve topwater lures years ago and made a jig so that I could rotate several at one time. The finish self levels to a nice hard streak free finish. Brands to look for would be either Flex Coat or Threadmaster.


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## wdcav1952 (Jan 14, 2008)

Jerry,

I can't help with the finish, but Lance sounds like he got you on the right track.  In regards to the rotation of the calls, I bought a rotisserie motor and rigged up a mandrel to turn blanks as the finish dries.  That might help your situation.

FWIW,


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## IPD_Mrs (Jan 14, 2008)

Lance is correct on this one.  The best way to do this is a slow revolving motor such as this one.
http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/mirbalmot.html We built an adaptor that holds a 4" PVC cap and inserted a cut off of a swimming pool noodle.  The noodle has a hole in the middle that is compress when inserted and it hold dowel that we tapper down to 5mm to hold small items.  The thread finish that Lance is talking about is U-40 Perma Gloss.  Here is a link for it as well:
http://www.anglersworkshop.com/items.aspx?catid=2902 

Hope this helps.

Mike


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## Tea Clipper (Jan 14, 2008)

I thought I read somewhere that Enduro is used as a bar top finish.


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## Gadget (Jan 14, 2008)

Calls have lots of high and low ribs as far as i know. I think a slow setting epoxy even if rotated would collect on the high ridges. What about airbrushing a bunch of coats of a good pre cat laquer. I use this method on my pens with great results.


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## follow3 (Jan 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking_
> 
> Lance is correct on this one.  The best way to do this is a slow revolving motor such as this one.
> http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/mirbalmot.html We built an adaptor that holds a 4" PVC cap and inserted a cut off of a swimming pool noodle.  The noodle has a hole in the middle that is compress when inserted and it hold dowel that we tapper down to 5mm to hold small items.  The thread finish that Lance is talking about is U-40 Perma Gloss.  Here is a link for it as well:
> ...



Hey Mike,

Have you tried this finish on pens?
Does it hold up well to time and use?

Any chance of getting a pic of that jig?

Thanks,
Steve


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## LanceD (Jan 14, 2008)

> The thread finish that Lance is talking about is U-40 Perma Gloss.  Here is a link for it as well:
> http://www.anglersworkshop.com/items.aspx?catid=2902
> 
> Hope this helps.
> ...



Actually, I was talking about Flex Coat or Threadmaster. They are both a two part self leveling epoxy formulated for rod building. U-40 Permagloss is a one part urethane, more like laquer or varnish. Although Permagloss is a really good finish for rods it is a very low build type of finish and requires many, many coats to get the glossy, high build look like you get with the above mentioned two part finishes. Also, Permagloss cures with exposure to air, so by the time you start brushing it on your call on one end, before you get to the other end it will start drying out on you.

The two part epoxy's are self leveling and you have anywher from 20 to 30 minutes of working time depending on the temperature of the room you're working in. I use several 18 RPM motors in my shop for turning my rods and you must keep you're piece turning for a few hours until it tacks up, then you can turn the motor off and let it sit for at least 24 hours before handling it. Two coats 24 hours apart will give you a deep high gloss look that will protect your calls for years to come. 

Here is a link to the Flex Coat brand finish.
http://shop.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/All-Finishes/Flexcoat-Rod-Finish

And here is a link to the turning motor. You will have to modify it though for turning your calls.
http://shop.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Dryers/Flexcoat-Finishing-Motor-18-RPM


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## DWK5150 (Jan 15, 2008)

I actually have some flex coat I am going to try on a few calls of mine but need to make a turner for them.  If you want to make a turner just use a clock motor as they are cheap and work well but you will have to build a stand and everything but not to difficult.


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## Scotty (Jan 15, 2008)

A lot of fishing lure makers use Devcon two-ton epoxy and/or E-tex.  You can find info and pics of their drying wheels at www.tackleunderground.com.  Do a search for topcoats.


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## HawksFeather (Jan 15, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions.  I think I will try the rod turner approach first and see what happens.

Thanks again,

Jerry


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## gerryr (Jan 15, 2008)

There is a significant difference between Devcon 2-ton epoxy and Flexcoat rod finish.  The Devcon is an adhesive and the Flexcoat is actually a casting resin.  Devcon will set up much quicker than Flexcoat and will not self level.


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## follow3 (Jan 17, 2008)

After reading the info on Flexcoat, I decided to give it a try.

I just ordered a Flexcoat kit and a slow speed motor to set up a drying stand.

When I get it up and running I will give some feedback.

Steve


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## HawksFeather (Jan 18, 2008)

Like follow3, I have the motor (listed above) on the way and plan to give it a try as well.  I didn't order the Flexcoat yet since I am going to need to "assemble" my turner.

Jerry


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## roddesigner (Jan 18, 2008)

another product I have been using is Swifty Diamonite again designed mainly for rod building but works very good on wood, actually it is not an epoxy but an adhesive components are  mixed 2-1 not even and it cures differently (Evaporation) which means you can speed up the cure time considerably-since it is not an epoxy no animes are given off for those who might have allergic reaction to them
just an alternative
John


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## follow3 (Jan 18, 2008)

Hey John,

Is this product self leveling like the "Flex Coat" claims to be?

Is it a high build type product?

Have you tried it on pens yet?

Thanks for the info. I am going to check it out as well.

Steve



> _Originally posted by roddesigner_
> 
> another product I have been using is Swifty Diamonite again designed mainly for rod building but works very good on wood, actually it is not an epoxy but an adhesive components are  mixed 2-1 not even and it cures differently (Evaporation) which means you can speed up the cure time considerably-since it is not an epoxy no animes are given off for those who might have allergic reaction to them
> just an alternative
> John


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## IPD_Mrs (Jan 18, 2008)

> _Originally posted by follow3_
> Hey Mike,
> 
> Have you tried this finish on pens?
> ...



Steve,
I will get you a photo next week as everything photography wise is set up at the hardware shop preping for our new print catalog.

Mike


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## roddesigner (Jan 19, 2008)

Steve Yes to all three questions 

flex coat is a great product and certainly self levels but it does tend to amber over a short period of time

Thread master-I have used both the light and high build both work great on pens
note-high build merely means you can use more of it and it will still level the same BUT you can also use thin applications it does not have to be put on heavy
Threadmaster-I tested it before it was released-we did some thread work light colors on a white blank stuck the blank on a dock in Florida after the finish was applied after 5 months it started to have very slight ambering this is about the same as 10 years or more actual use.

Swifty Diamonite is relatively new as I said it is different, high build self leveling and also very clear
Like using anything new there is a slight learning curve and they all call for rotating the blanks
I use various size wood dowels and masking tape to make bushings slide the turned blanks onto the bushing and apply while the rod is turning- a cheap motor that works well is from a rotisserie just need to make some type of chuck adapter.
Some day I will learn how to take decent photos  and post them CA fumes kill me
John


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## workinforwood (Jan 21, 2008)

I just thought I'd chime in and let you know that Cabela's carries these products, the motors and everything else you need for finishing a custom rod handle.  I am pretty sure Gander mountain carries flex coat finish too, but probably have less rod finishing supplies than cabela's would.  If these places are near by, could be cheaper that paying shipping and waiting.  Also, If anyone buys a water base product, you sure don't want to ship that right now.  I have all kinds of products like dog shampoo's and cleaners that exploded in my semi this weekend due to the extreme cold.


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