# 3 wheel buffing vs Barry 2 wheels



## Jordan303 (May 7, 2011)

Ok so I'm finally in the market for a buffind system. The cheapest systems are the 3 wheel buffing mandrel from psi, and the Barry 2 wheel acrylic buffing system also from PSI.

I do both wood and acrylic pens. My questions is which one is the better bang for the buck. And am I able to use the Barry 2 wheels system on pens with a CA, Poly, and Laquer finish? 

I'm really getting sick and tired or micro mesh and I hear with a buffing system it will cut my time in half. I just want to spend more time turning and less time polishing.

On a side note I know a lot of people are going to recomend the Beal. But cost is a factor so the cheaper the better. 

What are your opinions?


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## Nikitas (May 7, 2011)

I have Barry's system and have not tried the 3 wheel. I use and like the 2 wheel and I use it on acrylics and ca finishes...Hope this helps. Pm me and I can do a small demo on live video for you if you want.....
Thanks,
 Brian


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## its_virgil (May 7, 2011)

I made my own system. I also have Barry's system and like it. For the homemade system I use the wheels and compound from this post:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55476&highlight=buffing

Do a good turn daily!
Don




Jordan303 said:


> Ok so I'm finally in the market for a buffind system. The cheapest systems are the 3 wheel buffing mandrel from psi, and the Barry 2 wheel acrylic buffing system also from PSI.
> 
> I do both wood and acrylic pens. My questions is which one is the better bang for the buck. And am I able to use the Barry 2 wheels system on pens with a CA, Poly, and Laquer finish?
> 
> ...


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## ed4copies (May 7, 2011)

Keeping names out of this, I use a Tripoli wheel, and a white diamond.  

I can sand to 600, then hit the tripoli.  IMO!!!  Because it is going near parallel to the mandrel, the tripoli removes the scratches of 600 nicely.  I reverse the blank and do another pass on tripoli.  Then, advance to white diamond.  Again, reversing the blank once.  The result is a pretty nice looking shine. 

MOST of what I do is resins and acrylics.  But, I do use the same process for CA finish over wood.

Whose name is on it is immaterial--But the type of wheels is very material, especially if you hope to do any ebonite--which is extremely finicky.

But, that's a different topic.

Hope this helps.


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## DozerMite (May 7, 2011)

ed4copies said:


> Keeping names out of this, I use a Tripoli wheel, and a white diamond.
> 
> I can sand to 600, then hit the tripoli. IMO!!! Because it is going near parallel to the mandrel, the tripoli removes the scratches of 600 nicely. I reverse the blank and do another pass on tripoli. Then, advance to white diamond. Again, reversing the blank once. The result is a pretty nice looking shine.
> 
> ...


 

What is finicky? I use the same wheels, compounds and process on Ebonite as I do on any plastic. Ebonite can have a very high shine or if preferred, a matte finish. I opt for a shine. The most important thing to remember is not to overheat Ebonite as well as plastics---Ebonite will burn and plastics melt. It overheats very quickly.


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## PenMan1 (May 7, 2011)

Ditto what Ed said. I use Tripoli and White Diamond. I also use the CSUSA buffing wheel because it is almost as cheap as the mount on lathe systems. It is actually cheaper than any other way, if you factor in the cost of replacement pads.

Additionally, when this tiny buffer is not being used, I just cover the wheels with a garbage can liner. All that changing the lathe is a real time waster and a real pain the the a$$.


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## KenV (May 7, 2011)

Jordan --  the materials used in the wheels and the kinds of polish/abrasive are critical.

It is pretty inportant to keep your buffs from becoming cross contaminated  -- getting rouge on the white diamond for example.  

do a search on past threads on buffing/polishing for some good recommendations of sources of quality buffs and compounds from vendors servicing the polishing industry.  


P.S.  -- this is one of those places where you want to think about better quality than the cheapest available.   The auto polishing industry is pretty tuned in to how to make metals and plastics really look good.


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## Texatdurango (May 7, 2011)

Jordan303 said:


> .....
> the 3 wheel buffing mandrel from psi............
> the Barry 2 wheel acrylic buffing system...........
> a lot of people are going to recomend the Beal..........
> ...


 
Wow. I actually find myself agreeing with the majority, that's a rare occurance!

My opinion would be to find some quality buffing equipment and compounds, learn to properly use them and quit being concerned with whose name and or picture is on the outside of the box. 

_My opinion_...I found that Caswell Plating carries buffs and compounds that are far superior to any of those found in the "Systems" mentioned above.  I'm sure there are other supply houses that offer quality products as well, but don't be looking for named systems!



Jordan303 said:


> .....But cost is a factor so the cheaper the better.


 
Cheaper is not always better!


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## sgimbel (May 7, 2011)

I made my own buffing setup.  It's a 1/2" all tread rod with nuts and washers and 2 Caswell buffing pads. I put a dimple in the end of the 1/2" rod for the live center and use my PSI chuck for the head.  Total cost for rod/nuts was around $5.00 and the buffing wheels and polishing compounds that George talks about are real reasonable too.  It you get the polishing compounds from Caswell they are hugh bars and will last you forever.


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## Dave Turner (May 7, 2011)

Ok. After researching some buffing posts, I'm convinced enough to try this "buffing" thing. Up till now, I've gone the micromesh and plastic polish route, but always have some fine lines at high magnification.  I'm going to get the Harbor Freight 6" buffer (on sale now for $45 minus 20% coupon). I'll also order a few 6" Canton Flannel buffing wheels, Plastic-Glo (Ultra Fine Dry Grade) and Plastic Buffing Compound (Fine) from Caswell Plating. Being a gadget guy, I'm also going to order the wheel rake so I can have fun with flying lint and keep my wheels in proper order.  I have two questions:

1. Is there anything else I need to successfully buff?  Anything to make the process easier, quicker, more fool-proof? Anything else to maintain the wheels? Would having a second buffer with courser grade abrasives (tripoli, etc) be of any benefit to speed up my finishing process? Or should I just sand to 400 grit and then proceed to the Plastic-Glo wheel?

2. I've read in a post that you can buff your pen after assembly. Is this really true? Does this only apply to the Plastic Buffing Compound (Fine) or to both compounds? I'd hate to ruin the metal trim on the pen.


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## PenMan1 (May 7, 2011)

George is absolutely correct. Cheaper is usually never better AND the Caswell replacement pads are the best I have ever used. 

In my particular case, the Caswell wheels cost less than the "pen maker supply house wheels".  They were on sale, so I bought all I thought I would need for a long period.

But, then again, I buy Novius II buy the case.... When I can find it!


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## MartinPens (May 7, 2011)

3 wheel works great for me.

Martin

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner


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## Rick_G (May 7, 2011)

I made my own system using an old grinder. A couple good buffing wheels and plastic polish of your choice, about as cheap as you can get.  Works good for pens but if you are trying to polish larger things you could run into problems because the wheels are so close to the motor.


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## Jordan303 (May 7, 2011)

Woah. That's a lot of replies in a short time.

Thank you to everyone who jumped in on this. 

With a 3 wheel system like the beal, psi, or homemade can I buff all materials on the same wheel? Example acrylic, wood, and tru stone with no fear of contamination?

Second after I put a CA or poly finish can I go to buffing without the micromesh? Or still micromesh then buff?


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## ed4copies (May 7, 2011)

Jordan303 said:


> Woah. That's a lot of replies in a short time.
> 
> Thank you to everyone who jumped in on this.
> 
> ...



Hope this helps--see blue.


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## DozerMite (May 7, 2011)

Jordan303 said:


> Woah. That's a lot of replies in a short time.
> 
> Thank you to everyone who jumped in on this.
> 
> ...


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## ossaguy (May 7, 2011)

I have the Barry G. 2 wheel,and I like the results,but the instructions say that you use it AFTER you go up to 12000 MM and plastic polish,so it has not saved any time,but the final pen just feels softer.The shine seems better to me.

   I stumbled across the demo video on the CSUSA website last night,and discovered that I have the wheels mixed up.....having the blue compound on the tan one,not on the white one.The white one just seems so floppy and soft,vs.the more solid tan one that I figured that was right,and the printed instructions were not clear in the picture,as both wheels looked exactly the same to me.

   I wonder how much difference it makes?

   So I guess I need to buy another tan wheel.Darn....

 Steve


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## KenV (May 8, 2011)

1. Is there anything else I need to successfully buff?  Anything to make the process easier, quicker, more fool-proof? Anything else to maintain the wheels? Would having a second buffer with courser grade abrasives (tripoli, etc) be of any benefit to speed up my finishing process? Or should I just sand to 400 grit and then proceed to the Plastic-Glo wheel?

2. I've read in a post that you can buff your pen after assembly. Is this really true? Does this only apply to the Plastic Buffing Compound (Fine) or to both compounds? I'd hate to ruin the metal trim on the pen.[/QUOTE]


Dave --  

I use one buffer and change buffs --  Dozermitd (who form past posts appears to be a buffing pro) is working with one set of buffs and rakes them to refresh.  

If you are not going to refresh your buffs, and I ain't close to a buffing pro  -- keep a set for each medium and avoid contamination.

Note that no one reminded that the buffing compounds are applied lightly -  very lightly, and the buffing is done lightly at the end of the buffing mediums.  

Also -- a buffing pro can take ripples and waves out -- I cannot.  I make sure the surface is level and smooth before I head to the buffs.  The scratch pattern needs to be even and fine -- any deep scratches will pop right out with the buffing.    I go to 800 or so and check closely as I go to make sure there are no deeper scratches in the finish when I go to the buffing.    At 800 or higher, rouge does not seem to be needed if the finish is prepared to move ahead -- other wise back to building the finish after crashing at the buffing step.



Buffing after assembly --   The test for plating is to see how long it last with buffing.   Most of the platings are thin and other than a wax buff, or perhaps final polish, I do not buff finished pens.   Your experience may be different -- as might your skill level.


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## Texatdurango (May 8, 2011)

ossaguy said:


> I have the Barry G. 2 wheel,and I like the results,but *the instructions say that you use it AFTER you go up to 12000 MM and plastic polish*,so it has not saved any time,but the final pen just feels softer.The shine seems better to me.
> 
> Steve


 
So much for good instructions huh!  I would never waste my time going up through all the micro mesh grits THEN buff.  I haven't picked up a piece of micro mesh in over two years now and the last thing my pens see is the buffer and I'll place my pens next to anyone's.


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## philkessling (May 8, 2011)

I use the Caswell buffs and compounds ever since George wrote his how to. They work great and I get a super shiny finish.


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## okiebugg (May 16, 2011)

*Gold Polish*

As an inexpensive way of polishing, I use a rotary tool (ryobi) with the small buffing wheel available for the dremel. After sanding to 1000, I apply just a touch of Gold buffing compound. This polish is available at any Jewelers supply, is not very expensive, and polishes like the proverbial diamond in a goats posterior.

This polish is used at the jewelry shops to buff gold rings without removing a lot of gold from the ring. I've been doing this for 25 years and have had no complaints.

Just another opinion...for what it's worth


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