# Cutting small segments



## GaryMGg (Oct 30, 2007)

*This isn't mine* -- I just saw it posted elsewhere and thought y'all would like it; I did.







It meets the criteria I require for a jig: Safe to use, produces repeatable accuracy, straight-forward to make & use.

[8D]


----------



## rhahnfl (Oct 30, 2007)

That's a great idea!!!


----------



## kirkfranks (Oct 30, 2007)

Just make sure if you use this to stop the saw and clear away the small cutoffs out after every couple or 3 cuts.  If not when the one you are cutting pushes the first one you cut back to the back edge of the blade you will have flying wedges.[B)]


----------



## mikemac (Oct 30, 2007)

Wow.. Thats myy jig, taken from the WN forum;  Glad it helps others!  Its a cool feeling [][][]

Its nice to be able to give back.

I'm mulling over some designs for a jig to help quickly and consistently cut blanks for the right length of a specific pen style, without measuring.  I've tossed away a few ideas so far, but I'm close to putting blade to wood.  I'll be happy to share that as well.


----------



## GaryMGg (Oct 30, 2007)

Hi'ya Mike. I didn't know you're a member here. 
Yep, I just saw this posted on WN and thought <b>it's a great jig</b>. 
I can see a couple of quick and easy improvs (which you may actually already be testing):
IF the clamp were held in place with bolts coming up from the bottom and secured using wing nuts, several sets could be put in place and the clamp could become moveable, allowing for
quick change to the other stops. Those stops could be set up for slims, upper cigar, lower cigar, etc.
I'll be in the shop this weekend making some of these reality 'cause I really like it.
You done good! [][]


----------



## DocStram (Oct 31, 2007)

Thanks for sharing the photo. BTW, what's the "WN Forum"???


----------



## mikemac (Oct 31, 2007)

at the risk of being tarred and feathered.. 

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/


----------



## mikemac (Oct 31, 2007)

Someone asked me: 
(and then I accidentally deleted the email, sorry!)

_"How do you solve the equal sized segments wen cut on the saw.?"_

I use a partial fence:


----------



## fernhills (Oct 31, 2007)

Hi, i use the Dubby jig,much the same as the jig shown,on the right side you should have another jig identical to the left,then your cut off arn`t falling and rolling into spinning blade cause if they hit blade they zzzinggggg all over,anyway that really helps..


----------



## fernhills (Oct 31, 2007)

Hi, i use the Dubby jig,much the same as the jig shown,on the right side you should have another jig identical to the left,then your cut off arn`t falling and rolling into spinning blade cause if they hit blade they zzzinggggg all over,anyway that really helps..


----------



## Texatdurango (Oct 31, 2007)

> _Originally posted by fernhills_
> <br />Hi, i use the Dubby jig,much the same as the jig shown,on the right side you should have another jig identical to the left,then your cut off arn`t falling and rolling into spinning blade cause if they hit blade they zzzinggggg all over,anyway that really helps..


I totally agree with having another base on the right side of the blade the same height as the jig base.  When you make your cuts, the cutoffs simply lay there or in case of thin veneers, they simply fall over out of the way.  Without the level bases, you are going to spend a fair amount of time looking for small pieces that have shot around the shop.

Here is a shot of my "auxiliary" base to the right of the blade.  It rests on the table using a track that sits down in the miter slot.




<br />


----------



## fernhills (Oct 31, 2007)

Yep,thats it,i learned that not from pens but of years of flat work,thanks you are very helpful,, Carl


----------



## GaryMGg (Nov 2, 2007)

To follow up on my original post, I should add some thoughts. While not taking away from Mike's idea, safety must be your first concern. This jig is a good starting point yet it could stand a little tweaking. For anyone considering making a jig like this, especially those less-experienced doing flat work, there are two important considerations other than those raised above:

1. The clamp extension passing over the blade is a safety concern.
As pen makers, we're not likely to raise the blade up that high, but it's important
to be especially cognizant of the possibility of hitting the clamp arm with the blade.

2. A sled with a single runner requires you to make that runner absolutely spot on.
Any slop will make the jig frustrating to use.
If you make a single-runner sled, use a tight, straight-grained stable wood like unfigured hard maple or even something like purple heart or IPE and make it absolutely tight.
I make my runners a hair too big and then plane or scrape to just fit. When they're hard to push dry, I buff 'em with wax and see if they slide. If they stick, I scrape a hair more til they just barely slide. You don't want any side-to-side movement.


----------



## tbird (Nov 13, 2007)

> _Originally posted by mikemac_
> <br />at the risk of being tarred and feathered..
> 
> http://www.forums.woodnet.net/



Can you be a little more specific as to where I can find this jig?
Thanks
Bird


----------



## Phil Joines (Nov 13, 2007)

To collect the cutoffs make a screened catcher for your shop vac or DC.


----------

