# Any interest in pen maker specific drill bit holder?



## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

Playing around with a layout for a drill bit holder designed specifically for pen maker sized bits.  

I went through all of the tube/drill size spreadsheets and I think I pulled all of the bit sizes for all of the kits with maybe one or two exceptions for the obscenely large real cigar holder and something else which I forget.

What other information would you like to see in the quick reference section besides cross reference of approximately compatible bits?

I'll be cutting these on my CNC from wood.  Each hole is .01 for SAE and .1 for metric oversized to allow easy insert/removal.  I'll have to play with that a bit once I cut some prototypes to make sure that's enough clearance.  

I haven't drawn up a 3D version yet, but I figure the upper deck to be either 1/2" or 3/4" material with through holes for the bits and some 1/2" standoffs underneath with a lower platform for the stop.  

Depending on the wood I end up using and figuring out the best way to color in the engravings, I'm targeting around a $20-25 price point.  So I guess the question is would there be interest and what changes would you like to see?


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

As shown, the size is 8" x 4.5"


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## Dan Masshardt (Sep 10, 2014)

I'm a buyer!  

Great idea.  

If like to fashion some kind of cover to put over the top for mine but that would be on me.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

A cover might be interesting actually but would take more material to make than the actual unit itself.  Plus drill bit lengths are not standard, so it would have to be based off of your longest bit.

I'd have to look into that on a one-off basis.


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## Edgar (Sep 10, 2014)

That's a great idea Carl & I'd definitely want one.
My only suggestions would be to add 12.5 mm ~ .492 & 14 mm ~ 35/64 to the reference section.

Edgar


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

I can do that.  

Are there any kits out there that still need a 12mm bit?  I omitted that size because I either didn't see any current kits or just overlooked it in the bushing reference files.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

Dan Masshardt said:


> I'm a buyer!
> 
> Great idea.
> 
> If like to fashion some kind of cover to put over the top for mine but that would be on me.



The inner rectangle of the box was meant to be an inset pocket, but it could just as easily be flipped so it stands proud and the outer ring would be recessed to index a lid in place.  I actually do like that idea the more I think about it.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

Here are the 2 additional references

Also added a version with the SAE decimal conversion under each.

What remains to be seen is how well small type engraving will show up in wood.


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## Dan Masshardt (Sep 10, 2014)

Having a lip so that a cover could be made from thin ply maybe?

Carving out all the material for a cover seems like a waste of wood.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

No, I wouldn't be carving it out.  I was referring to the part you see in the picture.  The outline was going to be raised while the area for the bits was to be recessed.  I can flip that so it has a rabbit around the outside to hold a 1/4" wood box so to speak as the lid.


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## Swagopenturner (Sep 10, 2014)

I'd buy one.  How about leaving a little space on the side for customers to add a hole just for the one thing they have but no one else does?  I use a 11/16" Forstner bit for USB drive kits.  It has a 0.407 shank.  Or how about a space for a chuck key (for those of us who like chuck keys!).


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

I can do that, but how big would be considered too big for something like this?  Right now we're at 8" x 4.5" and probably in the neighborhood of 3" tall without a lid of any type.  

I may end up having to go slightly larger if the engraving doesn't show up well enough on the small text in wood.  I have to do some test pieces to see how small is still legible.  I'm thinking hard maple may take the text the best in terms of clean edges with a v-bit.  Or as an alternative to color filling the engravings, I may put a layer of something over the face and engrave into that but that would add to the cost.


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## MarkD (Sep 10, 2014)

Carl, I believe the CABALLERO (JR Gents I's) that Smitty sells use 10mm and 12MM drill bits although I think that 15/32 and a 25/64 can be used.

I may be interested in one of these.*



*


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

It looks like he calls for the SAE sizes and then says they can be substituted with the 10 and 12 metric.

I can add space for a 12, but it's like the big 51/64th bit I ran into where it seems to be an exception.


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## scjohnson243 (Sep 10, 2014)

Love the idea, been fighting different ways to keep drill bits organized, and for a "Mechanical idiot" like myself figuring out which size is which... (if its not printed on the bit)...

Would buy this...  Maybe include a little paper or fold out that has the kits/sizes... just for reference, but most poeple can just pull that up themselves... Not sure if it would add more value, but would be "nice" for the extremely lazy or confused new guys.


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## Mack C. (Sep 10, 2014)

I can see a use for one of those for myself. My concern is mailing costs to Canada approaching $20 for an SFRB. My suggestion is the outside measurements to be no larger than what fits into the SFRB, 5 3/8" X 8 5/8" X 1 5/8".

I'm not sure why you're at 3" tall though!


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

It would be flat packed to fit a SFRB.  

If I can get sketchup to behave, I'll show you why the 3".  My idea is that what you see here is drilled completely through at the bit diameter plus a little wiggle room.  This piece would be put on standoffs about 1 1/2" above a solid lower board.  When you insert the bit it would hold the bit about half way up so the hole is the right diameter.

Otherwise not all bits have the same size shank as their drill size.  i.e. a larger bit may step down to fit a smaller chuck.  Those wobble around if only grabbed from the bottom.  This would hold the bits somewhere around the middle depending on the bit length.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

This is a down and dirty of what I was thinking.  Not set in stone and I'm open to ideas.  I'm using just a flat 3/4" board right now and I find that the bits are not stable enough for my liking which is the reason for having the elevated platform.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

As for leaving room, I could omit the Letter bits for those of us who don't use them.  I've been making pens for quite a few years now and never needed a letter bit unless I was doing kitless work.  That would leave you an entire row of extra space for custom holes.

This would all be CNC cut within .001 of the target size of each hole.


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## Cmiles1985 (Sep 10, 2014)

I'd be a buyer. That looks phenomenal!


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## OldGrumpy (Sep 10, 2014)

Sounds interesting.  Put me down as a possible


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## walshjp17 (Sep 10, 2014)

Carl, 

Put me down for one.  You might want to show your drawings at the meeting tomorrow night.  I imagine there'll be a few takers.

You might consider a separate holder for turners who use forstner bits for pepper mills or rough hollowing and include holes for drill chucks and other things (pencils and Sharpies?).  We can chat tomorrow evening.

jpw


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## stonepecker (Sep 10, 2014)

What about omiting the letter holes and make a seperat holder for Letter bits?

I like the idea and the design is great. 
Keeping it to the SFR box size and allowing the buyer to get the 'rods' and cut to their own prefered height?

Just an idea.


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## jyreene (Sep 10, 2014)

I would be in for one.


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## wyone (Sep 10, 2014)

I like the idea. I would be down for one..  One empty spot for a pen mill might be good.. although, maybe it is getting too large with that.  Just a thought.


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## Jim15 (Sep 10, 2014)

Good idea. I would like to buy one.


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## Signguy (Sep 10, 2014)

I'm totally in!

I'd vote for having every possible size on it, even the less used ones.  If any kit has ever used it I would include it.

I'd rather have it a little larger and not have the classic "what do I do with this one bit size that does not fit" issue,

Thanks!


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## Edward Cypher (Sep 10, 2014)

I would be in for one.  Great idea.


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## asyler (Sep 10, 2014)

me too, beats the all in a drawer solution i use now..


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

Signguy said:


> I'm totally in!
> 
> I'd vote for having every possible size on it, even the less used ones.  If any kit has ever used it I would include it.
> 
> ...



Best I can tell there are only 2 bits that I've excluded that are only good for 2 kits that I could find information on. One of which isn't even a pen kit really and the other is for an alternative metric (12mm) bit for which an SAE bit is actually the first choice in the instructions. The letter P bit that is in there isn't really necessary as none of the kits use them.  That frees up one spot anyway.

I do agree that I need to keep this to what can fit in a small flat rate box.  Anything larger and shipping becomes a problem.  That means the largest I can go is 8 5/8" x 5 3/8"  so there is some wiggle room over what is configured now.  But at what point does it become too big for the bench so to speak I guess is my concern.  Take a SFRB and put in a free spot on your bench and see if that's acceptable to give up that space.

What I might look at doing is having 2 options.  One as shown with the letter bits in place and one that omits the letter bits but offers holes to fit MT2 accessories such as your mandrel and centers. The problem I have to watch out for with that is stability of loading up heavy live centers and such to the outside of the platform.

Oh and if any of the kitless guys are interested, I'm working out a kitless setup in my head.  There will be a spot for a 1" die, tap, and drill bit for each of body, section, clip, and a few extra holes for feed taps.


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## Rockytime (Sep 10, 2014)

like the idea but would prefer one with the holes slanted so it could be mounted on the wall. I have a lot more wall space than bench space.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

Rockytime said:


> like the idea but would prefer one with the holes slanted so it could be mounted on the wall. I have a lot more wall space than bench space.



Possibly a future option.  I would like to get one or two working versions out there first before I make anything drastically different.


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## Dan Masshardt (Sep 10, 2014)

For other future holders - like for kitless - what about a holder that could fit in a drawer with the pieces flat?  

You could consider leaving the p but hole as I think this may be a good one for kitless work??


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## southernclay (Sep 10, 2014)

Carl I love the idea. I did a home brew version of this with 2 1x4"s recently and would have preferred to have paid your price : )

-A kitless version with pieces laying flat would be a great idea. 

-I use a U bit on one of Smittys pens but I think having a little extra room will let someone add a few of their own. 

-a flat rate bubble envelope may be a decent option, same price as SFRB but larger. May not be durable enough?

-your idea to raise it to handle reduced shank drills is an awesome solution that was the first problem I thought of. 

Don't know that I'm a buyer since I have mine done now but it's a great idea at a great price. I would be interested in one for taps/dies especially having the reference table on there. That could be a nice resource if I do make the plunge.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

Ok, so this is as big as I can go and still fit in a flat rate box.  I went 8.5 x 5.25 which gives me 1/4" spacing for craft paper wrapping or whatever in the box.

I gave some space to add your own one-off holes as needed.  I also added a second version that removes the letter bits and adds holes to hold MT2 accessories such as mandrels, centers, knock out bar, etc...


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## Dan Masshardt (Sep 10, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> Ok, so this is as big as I can go and still fit in a flat rate box.  I went 8.5 x 5.25 which gives me 1/4" spacing for craft paper wrapping or whatever in the box.  I gave some space to add your own one-off holes as needed.  I also added a second version that removes the letter bits and adds holes to hold MT2 accessories such as mandrels, centers, knock out bar, etc...




I like the first one   I use 2 or 3 of the letter bits  

IMO, this can't start to become a catch all for things like centers  there will always be more things that it should have.

I DO think that the idea of having future different ones - especially that could fit in a drawer woukd be great   Kit less stuff, collets, centers,


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 10, 2014)

I have one more idea in mind but I have to see if I can pull it off and still be structurally sound.  

Right now I'd prefer to keep it as drill bits only and leave the letter bits in place with the additional spacing for you to add your own.


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## Mack C. (Sep 11, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> This is a down and dirty of what I was thinking.  Not set in stone and I'm open to ideas.  I'm using just a flat 3/4" board right now and I find that the bits are not stable enough for my liking which is the reason for having the elevated platform.


It could be mailed knocked down. The new owner could put it together!


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 11, 2014)

Mack C. said:


> Carl Fisher said:
> 
> 
> > This is a down and dirty of what I was thinking.  Not set in stone and I'm open to ideas.  I'm using just a flat 3/4" board right now and I find that the bits are not stable enough for my liking which is the reason for having the elevated platform.
> ...



We all have access to CA or epoxy.  I can mail it with some 1/4" aluminum rod cut to length and it can be assembled in your shop.  I did consider screws and threaded stand offs, but that would add to the cost.


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## Mack C. (Sep 11, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> Mack C. said:
> 
> 
> > Carl Fisher said:
> ...


1/2" wooden dowel would work for me. My point of view, just mail me the drilled out board, I'll make the elevated platform. You've done the most and the best part of the work!


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## Smitty37 (Sep 11, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> I can do that.
> 
> Are there any kits out there that still need a 12mm bit?  I omitted that size because I either didn't see any current kits or just overlooked it in the bushing reference files.


 Jr Gent 1 call for 12mm on some of the older instruction sheets.  Newer instructions call out a fractional that you have on your design.

Le Roi Elegant Royale use a "U" bit but they might be the only kit that does

For Reference 9.5mm is almost identical to 3/8th and can probably be used most places where 3/8 is called for and visa-versa.  

This seems like a pretty good idea Carl.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 11, 2014)

I think I used the 3/8 when I did your v2 kits since a 9.5mm wasn't readily available at the time of the beta and it worked out good.  The letter U bit I think can be covered by a 3/8 as well.  I've done those Royale kits and didn't even question using a 3/8 on them unless they have changed since the betas? 

That said, a U or a 9.5mm could find a home in that open space for those who need it.  It won't be labeled or as clean but I'm going to leave that gap there for people to add their one-offs as needed.

I think there is probably enough call to add a 12mm. It's .1 larger than a 15/32 which is significant enough if you're reverse painting or something.  I believe I have a 12mm in my stash but haven't checked lately.


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## sbell111 (Sep 11, 2014)

wyone said:


> I like the idea. I would be down for one..  One empty spot for a pen mill might be good.. although, maybe it is getting too large with that.  Just a thought.


The problem with that is that there are pen mills sized to most of these tube sizes, so you would need several holes just for the mills.

Actually that reminds me of my initial thoughs when seeing this thread and something that I've been needing to build:

My initial thoughts on this thread were that my shop builds more than just pens and I often don't stick to the recommended bit sizes as for some kits they create a hole that either has too much slop for the tube or is too tight (this is especially true if I've painted the tube).  Therefore, I'd prefer to stick to my two index boxes for my bits.

However, what I have been intending to build and just not got around to it is an indexed holder for all of my pen mills so that I could easily grab the correct sized one.  Something very similar to Carl's design is what I was envisioning.


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## jyreene (Sep 11, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> Best I can tell there are only 2 bits that I've excluded that are only good for 2 kits that I could find information on. One of which isn't even a pen kit really and the other is for an alternative metric (12mm) bit for which an SAE bit is actually the first choice in the instructions. The letter P bit that is in there isn't really necessary as none of the kits use them.  That frees up one spot anyway.  I do agree that I need to keep this to what can fit in a small flat rate box.  Anything larger and shipping becomes a problem.  That means the largest I can go is 8 5/8" x 5 3/8"  so there is some wiggle room over what is configured now.  But at what point does it become too big for the bench so to speak I guess is my concern.  Take a SFRB and put in a free spot on your bench and see if that's acceptable to give up that space.  What I might look at doing is having 2 options.  One as shown with the letter bits in place and one that omits the letter bits but offers holes to fit MT2 accessories such as your mandrel and centers. The problem I have to watch out for with that is stability of loading up heavy live centers and such to the outside of the platform.  Oh and if any of the kitless guys are interested, I'm working out a kitless setup in my head.  There will be a spot for a 1" die, tap, and drill bit for each of body, section, clip, and a few extra holes for feed taps.



I'd be down for a kitless and the one shown here.


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## Smitty37 (Sep 11, 2014)

jyreene said:


> Carl Fisher said:
> 
> 
> > Best I can tell there are only 2 bits that I've excluded that are only good for 2 kits that I could find information on. *One of which isn't even a pen kit really and the other is for an alternative metric (12mm) bit for which an SAE bit is actually the first choice in the instructions. *The letter P bit that is in there isn't really necessary as none of the kits use them.  That frees up one spot anyway.  I do agree that I need to keep this to what can fit in a small flat rate box.  Anything larger and shipping becomes a problem.  That means the largest I can go is 8 5/8" x 5 3/8"  so there is some wiggle room over what is configured now.  But at what point does it become too big for the bench so to speak I guess is my concern.  Take a SFRB and put in a free spot on your bench and see if that's acceptable to give up that space.  What I might look at doing is having 2 options.  One as shown with the letter bits in place and one that omits the letter bits but offers holes to fit MT2 accessories such as your mandrel and centers. The problem I have to watch out for with that is stability of loading up heavy live centers and such to the outside of the platform.  Oh and if any of the kitless guys are interested, I'm working out a kitless setup in my head.  There will be a spot for a 1" die, tap, and drill bit for each of body, section, clip, and a few extra holes for feed taps.
> ...


Not that it matters, but I think the Rizheng instructions still call out 12mm even though they have actually changed the kits.  I think no one will miss it if you leave it out.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 11, 2014)

I added it.  It honestly didn't take up any more room since the metric ones were so spaced out anyway.

I'm playing around with the CAM side now to see if I can get a proof of concept milled up in the next day or two.


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## ChrisN (Sep 11, 2014)

C'mon, you missed the most important drill bits - center drills! Skip the MT holes and replace them with spaces for 3 or 4 center bits. JMHO!


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## suefox51 (Sep 11, 2014)

Awesome idea - I'd take one!


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## Wayne (Sep 12, 2014)

I'd Like the template with all the drill bits including the metric.

Great idea!


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## BJohn (Sep 12, 2014)

I would also be interested in one. I did not take the time to read all the posts but di anone mention a place for the jacobs chuck key.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 12, 2014)

Hi John.

It was mentioned.  I've left a gap between the SAE/Metric side and the Letter bits side that allow users to drill a few extra holes for anything additional they may want.


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## Skeleton2014 (Sep 12, 2014)

Would be interested in one... I have a 12mm bit but for the life of me can't remember which kit I bought it for.  I bought and definitely use the "U" type for one of Smitty's kits.  I found that with the  3/8" bit they were just too loose and required lots of epoxy to make up for the gap between the tube and blank (and forget about using CA no matter how thick). 
Jeff


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## Robert Sherlock (Sep 12, 2014)

I would take one


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## nascrdad (Sep 12, 2014)

I would like one also.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 12, 2014)

Ok, I have added the 12mm back in and I'll replace the P with a U since the P isn't needed for any kit and the U is.

I'll do some playing around this weekend in CAD and finish up the initial design.  Hoping to get some test cuts in this weekend but need to play with the bit hole sizing to find what fits best.

I'll post more when I have something to post.


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## Gary Zakian (Sep 14, 2014)

I would be in for one.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 16, 2014)

BTW, if anyone is interested here is the spreadsheet I've been working from.  This has all of the pen specific bits, decimal equivalent and alternatives where available.  This also has a bunch of kitless information such as tap to drill sizes and a few other odds and ends.

I find it very useful as a reference and it consolidates information that is currently spread across multiple library articles.

http://www.fisherofpens.com/blog/public/Drill-and-Tap-Ref-and-Inventory.xlsx


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## cestmoi (Sep 16, 2014)

Add me to the list of takers. This would help me reach organization nirvana!


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## Tom T (Sep 16, 2014)

Carl,
I like it.  I would also like one of them.  
Use the big print addition for the numbers if possible.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 17, 2014)

I believe I have my CAD files just about where I'm happy with them.  Now it's time to talk materials.

Wood doesn't seem to do well engraving text this size mechanically (vs. laser which I don't have).  It looks okay, but not great.

I'm thinking 1/2" corian but am open to other solid surface type materials that I could color fill without worrying about bleeding into the grain.  The minimum size I need to make the part plus enough for hold down is 5.5" x 10" for the upper tier at 1/2" thick.  The bottom platform can be anything.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 17, 2014)

I have an offer in on a bunch of 12x12 corian which would give me 2 per sheet and it's ultimately cheaper than wood and will take machining better.

Will keep everyone updated when I make progress again.


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## jyreene (Sep 17, 2014)

I think Corian would work well.


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## Edward Cypher (Sep 17, 2014)

I like the corian too.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 17, 2014)

I have 10 pieces of 12x12 in jasmine white coming which is good for 20 units.  I'll color fill with black on the engraving.  It seems scrap corian is fairly easy and inexpensive to come by.

It actually works out to be cheaper than even cheap pine from the box stores per unit which is good.


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## jyreene (Sep 17, 2014)

Nice. Jasmine white? Any chance we can get it in Genie Or Abu white?


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 17, 2014)

ahhhh, no.  It'll be sawdust tan within a day in the shop anyway.

I'm thinking of picking up some black as well with white fill would look pretty cool.


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## jyreene (Sep 17, 2014)

Sorry I recently watched Aladdin and I couldn't help myself.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 17, 2014)

Prince Ali - fabulous he - Ali Ababwa!


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 25, 2014)

So the corian is exposing some issues with either the CAM application or my CNC that didn't show up in wood.  The holes aren't exactly round but have a small flat spot in various positions.  

I'm going to have to touch base with the guy who made the CAM software I'm using and see if he's had problems coding circles.  

And my engraving is still a bit off center from the holes, but I'm getting closer.


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## Flynny (Sep 25, 2014)

Carl
I would be interested.  I have a homemade one that is not nearly as nice as this one.
John


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## Flynny (Sep 25, 2014)

Carl

I just went back and read all the prior posts.  I agree that it should be bits only and nothing extra like mills, centers, etc.  JMHO
John
PS Can't wait for the finished product.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 25, 2014)

Not quite right, but getting closer.

I have 3 small problems to work out before I'd be comfortable selling them.  The holes seem to not be quite round which appears to be a software issue. I'm going to try a different engraving option to see if I can get the text a bit more crisp and lined up correctly and lastly I need to find another option for color filling because painting and having to sand it back down destroys the labor effort savings I'm trying to achieve.  Rub and buff sticks may be a better option but need to get to hobby lobby to get some.


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## Swagopenturner (Sep 25, 2014)

For the color fill problem, try covering the piece with blue masking tape before the actual engraving.  Then after the laser cuts the letters, spray paint to fill and remove the remaining tape.  Most of the clean-up problems should be taken care of that way.


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## Edward Cypher (Sep 25, 2014)

Looking good from here.


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## Dan Masshardt (Sep 25, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> Not quite right, but getting closer.  I have 3 small problems to work out before I'd be comfortable selling them.  The holes seem to not be quite round which appears to be a software issue. I'm going to try a different engraving option to see if I can get the text a bit more crisp and lined up correctly and lastly I need to find another option for color filling because painting and having to sand it back down destroys the labor effort savings I'm trying to achieve.  Rub and buff sticks may be a better option but need to get to hobby lobby to get some.



Is there a discount for that sample unit?  

Do the bits fit okay in the not quite round holes?


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 25, 2014)

The bits fit fine in this one.  A little more sloppy than I had intended, but they fit well enough that you can't fit a bit in the next smaller hole which is one of the goals and the engraving is mediocre at best.

I was actually intending to keep it as my own depending on how the next few samples turn out.


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## philipff (Sep 26, 2014)

Just what I need!  Count me in. Philip


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## walshjp17 (Sep 26, 2014)

Looking good there, Carl.  Once you clear out all the Alpha ver problems, I think I know a few good Beta testers who would be happy to test the assembly process :wink::wink:.


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## Rockytime (Sep 27, 2014)

It is looking great! Put me down for one.


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## wyone (Sep 28, 2014)

I certainly thought of you today as I was putting some tubes in blanks and had to get out the 7 MM 5/16 25/64 and 27/64 bits.


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## Carl Fisher (Sep 28, 2014)

I had one failure yesterday trying a different CAM program that apparently didn't interpret the hole sizes correctly. I also picked up some rub and buff to see if I can make filling the engraving a bit easier.

I may have to put this project on hold for a week or two as I have a bunch of pen boxes to get cut and engraved for someone and they'll tie up most of my cnc time.


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## Carl Fisher (Oct 2, 2014)

So this was the alpha piece.  My drill bits were getting out of hand and I had to get organized like immediately.  The overflow is all my kitless bits.


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## Edgar (Oct 2, 2014)

Looking good!


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## Tom T (Oct 2, 2014)

Carl,
That is awesome.  I like it.  I'm not sure I can be that organized, but it would like to try.  Let us know when they go up for sale


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## Crashmph (Oct 2, 2014)

just me but I would have to put the sharp end down... i am prone to scratching the crud out of my hands like that. HAHAHAHAH


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## Carl Fisher (Oct 2, 2014)

Crashmph said:


> just me but I would have to put the sharp end down... i am prone to scratching the crud out of my hands like that. HAHAHAHAH



You can definitely do that, however I would suggest a layer of closed cell foam on the bottom board to protect the tips of the bits.


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## Carl Fisher (Oct 3, 2014)

Ok, I think Corian is NOT the way to go.  It's just too heavy overall.

Looking into HDPE and Polypropylene for roughly the same cost and it should be lighter weight and taking machining just as well.


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## walshjp17 (Oct 9, 2014)

Still working on this?


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## Carl Fisher (Oct 9, 2014)

Yup, haven't gone back to it.  I'm waiting on some product to arrive to do some testing.  I was also having some interference hiccups on the CNC when trying to run some pen boxes the other day so I have to look into that.

Plus we're trying to get ready for a show next weekend so we're in production mode to get inventory up.

Rest assured, I will produce them...eventually.


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## Fish30114 (Oct 31, 2014)

This super cool, I would definitely be a buyer. Please let me know when you get online. I will keep looking at this thread from time to time of course.


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, the good news is that I've been using my test piece for a bit now and I absolutely love it.  The less than good news is that I haven't had time to fire up my CNC since I had some hiccups with interference last time.

But it's not a dead project.


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## wyone (Nov 2, 2014)

sounds like progress in the right direction


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## BayouPenturner (Nov 3, 2014)

Count me in, I would like to buy one, Corian weight is not always an issue.  The additional weight may make the unit more stable


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## rej19 (Nov 3, 2014)

I'll take one once production starts! Thanks


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## Swagopenturner (Nov 3, 2014)

Carl;
I think you're going to have to make a hundred or so on the first run just to keep all of us who have express an interest happy!


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 3, 2014)

It's a good problem to have


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## Flynny (Nov 3, 2014)

Count me in Carl - Good idea!


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## Rockytime (Nov 4, 2014)

Keep me in the loop. I need one too.


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## monty8867 (Nov 4, 2014)

I will commit to one. Let me know when they are finished.

Monty


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## monty8867 (Nov 5, 2014)

Carl,
Are you going ahead with this project? If so I would be very interested. I was planning on doing something along those lines but it would be very primative compared to what you had outlined.


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## seamus7227 (Nov 5, 2014)

Im in for one as well Carl!


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 5, 2014)

monty8867 said:


> Carl,
> Are you going ahead with this project? If so I would be very interested. I was planning on doing something along those lines but it would be very primative compared to what you had outlined.



I am but a first round of surgery and other family obligations have kept me from working out the last of the kinks in my CNC as well as sourcing the right material to keep the price where I'm aiming for.  

I may go back to MDF for the material since it's relatively inexpensive and stable, but it's susceptible to water damage which I was trying to avoid and ridiculously messy to mill.


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## jyreene (Nov 5, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> I am but a first round of surgery and other family obligations have kept me from working out the last of the kinks in my CNC as well as sourcing the right material to keep the price where I'm aiming for.  I may go back to MDF for the material since it's relatively inexpensive and stable, but it's susceptible to water damage which I was trying to avoid and ridiculously messy to mill.



You mean your not going to make it out of hand cast mokume Gane?


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## foamcapt40 (Nov 5, 2014)

yes I am very interested..... I'm in!


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 6, 2014)

jyreene said:


> You mean your not going to make it out of hand cast mokume Gane?



You're donating my materials right?  :biggrin:


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## treeturner1962 (Nov 6, 2014)

I would love this... please put me down for one


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## Carl Fisher (Nov 6, 2014)

Ok, at this point I think we're beyond the Market Research portion of this project and have identified that there is definitely interest.

The alpha piece has been in use in my shop for the last month or so and I can't figure out how I lived without it now that it's stocked up and at my finger tips.

The first version will be the one shown in post #82 that has SAE, Metric and Letter as shown.  A future version will likely be created for the most common "kitless" makers tool kit which includes taps and matching drill bits as well as die holders, but that will be down the road a bit.

I have some hurdles to overcome with an upcoming surgery and subsequent 7 weeks off my feet.  During that time I can work on tweaking the CAD design and some final challenges with materials and hopefully being to turn out some meaningful end products.


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## seamus7227 (Nov 6, 2014)

Carl Fisher said:


> A future version will likely be created for the most common "kitless" makers tool kit which includes taps and matching drill bits as well as die holders, but that will be down the road a bit.


 
this is what im interested in! Hurry up and get better!


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## cjbwfd (Nov 13, 2014)

I'll take one, great idea. Best of luck on your recovery


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## suefox51 (Nov 19, 2014)

Hope all goes well with your surgery - heal well!


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## Powerstroke 7.3 (Nov 19, 2014)

Best of luck with your surgery, I will be one of your customers after your recovery.


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## endacoz (Nov 20, 2014)

I just found this thread yesterday! I too am very interested to see what your first generation product looks like and would love to buy one.

currently my drill bits are in little pockets leaves, most/ some of them, in a pile and so when I need to get different drill bits it takes me awhile this thing would be very helpful! 

There was some talk about MT2 organizers. Attached are pictures of something I threw together with scraps about a month ago. I just drilled the holes randomly and should have pre drilled my wood screw holes obviously!   When I first started working on this project I didn't really think it would work or even turn out. It's a rough version but for right now it holds my mt2 attachments great.


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## elkhorn (Nov 20, 2014)

Good luck with the surgery and recovery.  Then count me in when you get better!


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## endacoz (Jan 4, 2015)

How are you doing?


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 4, 2015)

Good days and bad days depending on how much pain meds I have to   

I'm in the cast until 1/28.  Once I can walk in the boot again I'll be able to move the CNC and dust collector into the new shop and start cranking these out I hope.


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## wyone (Jan 4, 2015)

Do not push yourself too much and make recovery longer.  Get healthy!


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 26, 2015)

So, here's the update.

I believe I've settled in on 1/2" MDF for the material.  I'm using a piece as the base under my corian holder right now and it's holding up just fine.  Just don't drown it in water and it should hold up just fine.  

It's cheap, light weight and so far durable enough for the job.  I just remains to be seen how it holds up to small text engraving unless I can get a laser engraving modification done in time to my CNC.

Cast comes off Wednesday.  I figure a week or so before I'm walking around well enough unaided to start getting these things finalized.  

At this point I think we're beyond market research and once i have some finished pieces I'll post them up in the classifieds or possibly through one of our vendors pending some further discussions.

Thanks all!  Looking forward to getting this project off the ground after such a long wait.


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## Garrett'sWoodworx (Jan 26, 2015)

Glad your recovery is going well!  I just found this thread and am most definitely interested in one as well. Thought I would add my name to the list for production planning purposes.


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## Fish30114 (Feb 1, 2015)

Carl, I'm glad your progressing with your recovery. I am certainly looking forward to one of these when you get going.

Best regards--Don Davis


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## oneleggimp (Feb 6, 2015)

I'd be interested.  Chuck key hole might be nice but morse taper stuff has, in my case, been taken care of.  I built a lazy-susan type holder out of mdf which works well for me.


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## Carl Fisher (Feb 7, 2015)

I'm about half way through expanding my CNC right now. Waiting on my GT2 belting to show up on the slow boat from Hong Kong 

Once I'm up and running, I should be able to crank out several of these at a time and I just have to iron out the best way to get the engraving to show up in the MDF.  I may pre-paint the surface of the wood and just engrave through the paint, we'll see.


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## BKelley (Feb 7, 2015)

Carl,
You might consider using sheet brass or engravers plastic and adhere that to a wood base.

Ben


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## Carl Fisher (Feb 7, 2015)

I have, but everything I add drives the cost up.  Right now I"m trying to hit a target price and still provide a piece that will hold up in the shop.


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## eajacobson (Feb 8, 2015)

Getting in late, but getting into the interest column. If there are any left of the planned future production, I'd be interested in one of these, too.

Thanks,
Ed


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## magier412 (Feb 8, 2015)

I'd like to get on the list for one of these as well.  Looks like a GREAT idea!


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## Hotrodder97 (Feb 9, 2015)

Carl, I would be a buyer.....


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## Fish30114 (Feb 10, 2015)

Carl, good that you seem to be continuing to recover-God bless You. I would be surely interested in what you learn/know about laser engraving--is that something you would do yourself? If you have any scoop about lasers, just let me know--maybe shoot me a PM.

Looking forward to this when you get rolling!


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## rkimery (Feb 12, 2015)

I'd be a buyer as well!  Put me on the list! Thanks.


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## Carl Fisher (Feb 12, 2015)

I will say that in the time I've been using my prototype, it's become invaluable.  When I'm looking for a specific size bit and maybe need just a touch bigger or smaller, all I have to do is look to the decimal on the bits regardless if they are metric, standard or letter.  I know there are reference sheets galore out there, including on I created in the library here, but it's just so much easier to just look at the bit holder itself.


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## lwalden (Feb 16, 2015)

Add me to the list as well, please!


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## endacoz (Feb 16, 2015)

Can't wait to get one,  Thanks for keeping us all updated!


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## Quincy (Feb 16, 2015)

Add me to the list. Much appreciated. 
Thank


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## CaptainJane (Feb 17, 2015)

*me too*

Hello 

I would be interested in your bit holder as well.

Please add me to your list of buyers.

captain Jane


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## eliasbboy (Feb 21, 2015)

Add me as well please.  I would love to have one of these.

Glad your recovery is going well too!


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## csr67 (Mar 16, 2015)

Wow, just what I've been looking for!  Put me down on the list please!


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## buckobernie (Mar 17, 2015)

*bit holder*

Put me on the list. thanks


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## Carl Fisher (Mar 17, 2015)

Hey guys, I'm not forgetting about everyone.  The CNC is almost alive again now that I'm back on my feet.  One more good weekend should see it up and running and I'll have to work out all of the calibration before I start making cuts.

I have a bunch of 1/2" MDF lined up waiting to be cut. 

Once I can start making them with some precision, I'll announce where and how you can buy them.  

Thanks for the patience so far.


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## endacoz (Mar 18, 2015)

Can't wait


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## penmaker1967 (Mar 20, 2015)

i will be interested in one carl been loking for something to put my drill bits in


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## Carl Fisher (Mar 20, 2015)

Well, I've been told that my weekend is booked solid outside of the shop and I still have 5 custom orders paid and waiting to get turned so yet another week is likely to go by before I can get the CNC up and running.

Sorry guys, I'm really trying. I promise :redface:


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## jyreene (Mar 20, 2015)

What about sleep? You don't really need to sleep. It's a crutch. Plus I hear methamphetamines are really cheap. Those keep you awake right? I'm not really sure.


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## Carl Fisher (Mar 20, 2015)

sleep is overrated as a means of recovery and health!


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## Wpixley (Mar 20, 2015)

Please add me to list of buyers. This looks to be exactly what is need for better organizing my garage shop.


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## J_B (Mar 21, 2015)

Hi Carl,
Count me in on one. But while piddlin out in the garage last night I thought of something that would me since I am so mm & fractionally challenged...why not have a bit rack that each hole is indicated by the pen kit it is associated to? Such as....

     O           O               O o
   Cigar     Sierra         Majestic

2cents
jb


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## J_B (Mar 21, 2015)

The formatting didn't work out...

<O> 
   Cigar     

<<O>>
..Sierra

<<<O..o>>
...Majestic
Sierra         Majestic


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## Frog Morton (Mar 22, 2015)

Very nice, I would purchase one when they become available. 

I have something similar that I cobbed together a while back, but I like the clean look of this piece much better than mine.


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## Tom T (Mar 22, 2015)

Carl,
I would like one also please.  I may already be on the list. The first thing to go is the mind.  It may have been the second.  I simply can't recall.


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## endacoz (Apr 20, 2015)

Think you will go into production soon?  I'm debating on just making my own (sub par) unless you have an estimated eta.


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## Carl Fisher (Apr 20, 2015)

I do not have an ETA, no. Other priorities have taken over now that I'm back up on my feet. The CNC is more or less running, but I haven't been able to set aside time for this project yet.


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## endacoz (Mar 15, 2016)

How are things


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## mredburn (Mar 15, 2016)

11.5mm for smaller capped pens?


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## leodelion (Mar 16, 2016)

I am definitely interested.  Put me on the list.  And thanks for all the work you have put in on this project.  Much appreciated.


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## foamcapt40 (Mar 16, 2016)

I'm in!


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## camb (Mar 17, 2016)

*Drill bit holder*

Definitely interested thx Jeff


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## TonyL (Mar 17, 2016)

I'm in for at least 1.


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## Carl Fisher (Mar 17, 2016)

Sorry guys, this project sort of fell by the way side. 

I still have the CAD files but they need some tweaks as I never was happy with the engraving portion or found a material I was happy with for the price point I was trying to hit.

MDF is the cheapest and easiest but I'm still worried about swelling over time from spills and such in the shop. Plastics are too pricey and corian was too heavy. 

I may try to get back to this at some point in the future, but for now it's been put way on the back burner.


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## TonyL (Mar 17, 2016)

Thanks for the follow-up and the effort!


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## Davidh14 (Mar 17, 2016)

What about 1/2" birch ply? Any concerns with that?


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## Skie_M (Jan 13, 2017)

Hmm ... where's my book on necromancy?  I bet my necromancer has it .... ahhh, found it ...


Let's see .... Necro Posting ... how to, things to avoid, people to avoid annoying .... meh, this is all nonsense, let's just post and revive this dead topic and reap the havoc it may spill!



So ... any chance we could get the CAD/CAM or SketchUP files?  Any chance you could try again with the Corian, but first mill the entire surface down to 3/8" or 1/4" if the 1/2" is way too heavy?

Apparently, people out here are still rabidly chomping at the bit (drill bits punningly included) to get your cute lil organizer and stuff it full of goodies!


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 14, 2017)

Now that I have the laser, I may revisit this in some simple 1/2" birch ply since I can burn the engraving instead of trying to machine it.


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## campzeke (Jan 14, 2017)

What about using the plastic sheets that engravers use to make name plates and door signs. I am not sure what thickness that material is available in but it would make the lettering show up quite well. If the top plate were made large enough to allow 1/4" or so around the edges you could make a wood base and attach the top plate to complete the index. Just a thought ....


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 14, 2017)

Most of that material would blow the price point I was originally targeting


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## Jim Smith (Jan 15, 2017)

I made one out of scrap wood and a piece of scrap Corian after I'd been making pens for about a year or so.  It sure makes life easier.  I've added a place to store the bushings with a list of the kits for each bushing and a pull-out slide where I mounted a three ring binder to hold plastic sleeves with the instructions for each kit.



 

Jim Smith


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## stonepecker (Jan 15, 2017)

Jim,
I LIKE IT!
And it didn't get broken because you didn't have to ship it FedEx

LOL


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## Jim Smith (Jan 15, 2017)

Wayne,  Too True. I ship FedEx quite a bit and even when I have something packed very well, with bubble wrap and padding etc, they still manage to break stuff.  I know how cargo is handled, as I did that for a while when I worked for Delta.  That said, I pack stuff accordingly and yet...

Thanks for the kind words and I hope that all is going well for you in the frozen north country.

Jim


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## Jtaylor (Mar 19, 2017)

Reviving an old thread. Carl whatever happened to this project. It looks awesome. I would love this 


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


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## panchos61 (Mar 26, 2017)

I'll like the idea I would like one !


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


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## RegisG (Mar 31, 2017)

Have you considered having them cut in metal on a laser and simply mount on board?

Regis


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 13, 2018)

So getting back to this after a long hiatus. I know another IAP member has been offering a version of this but I'm curious if anyone is still interested.

I have a decent laser machine now and am considering running these out of 3/16" acrylic sheet with tabbed acrylic sides that you can secure with CA or Weldon. Keeps shipping nice and tidy in a SFRB.

If there is enough interest, I'll give it a go again. If not I'm happy to see that someone else was able to run with the idea.


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## Garrett'sWoodworx (Jan 13, 2018)

I'm still interested Carl.  I made one for myself but I'm not happy with it.


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 13, 2018)

Ok. I'll order a few sheets of thicker plexi and run a few to see how it goes. Right now all I have is 1/8 and that's too thin.


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## Garrett'sWoodworx (Jan 13, 2018)

Sounds like a plan, thanks!


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## tbroye (Jan 14, 2018)

I would be interested


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## hcpens (Jan 14, 2018)

YES, YES


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## OZturner (Jan 14, 2018)

Yes please Carl, Just what I need.
Regards,
Brian.


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## danrs (Jan 14, 2018)

I would like one also.


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## Leatherman1998 (Jan 15, 2018)

I like this idea


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## SCjim (Jan 15, 2018)

I would buy in the $20-$30 price range.


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## TurtleTom (Jan 15, 2018)

*12.5 mm bit usage*



Carl Fisher said:


> I can do that.
> 
> Are there any kits out there that still need a 12mm bit?  I omitted that size because I either didn't see any current kits or just overlooked it in the bushing reference files.



The Caballero from Exotic Blanks uses 12.5 mm bit.


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## Carl Fisher (Jan 15, 2018)

Hi guys. I have some 3/16 and 1/4" plexi on the way. I'll see which works best for this and go from there.

I have a 1/8" version I'm using on my personal shop, but it's 3 layers for stability. The thicker plexi should be good with just 2 layers and 4 side supports. I'll post pictures once I have a prototype run and work out all the fitment kinks on the tabs. Hopefully I'll see the plexi sometime this week.

Thanks for the continued support and sorry for letting this project die for so long.


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## SJScher (Mar 14, 2018)

I would also be very interested in one.


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