# Liquid Encapsulation



## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 2, 2009)

Has anyone ever made a liquid encapulating pen? I think I've got my ideas of how to do it laid out but I need a bit more help... At one point in the molding , I am going to have to use wood as a mold for PR so is there anything you guys know of to put on the wood to make the pr not stick to it? Also, I need a cool color scheme, I am going to use chameleon black tubes, so what color should the liquid be?  
Thanks!


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## snyiper (Dec 2, 2009)

Gold liquid like a light oil for those steeler fans...Or if you could get any flouresent colors in the viscosity of a light oil


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 2, 2009)

snyiper said:


> Gold liquid like a light oil for those steeler fans...Or if you could get any flouresent colors in the viscosity of a light oil



OOOhh, yeah, maybe ill look into getting some luminous solution so it would glow in the dark!!!


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## DurocShark (Dec 3, 2009)

Be careful of any liquid that could stain clothes. Pens break.

That said, put a couple coats of shellac on the wood. Let that harden and sand smooth, then polish or buff with lots of wax. Or spray with mold release. 

PR shrinks though, so do some test runs to make sure you can get your wood mold out.


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## NewLondon88 (Dec 3, 2009)

I think I'd probably forgo the wood and use wax. You can carve the wax to shape and
give it a nice polish and then melt it out when you're ready. This would be a 'lost wax'
casting. Beats trying to get the wood out!


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## wdcav1952 (Dec 3, 2009)

I think they are called bulb filler fountain pens. :biggrin:


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## RAdams (Dec 3, 2009)

If i understand this correct, you want to trap liquid inside a casting of PR? sounds dangerous... liquids and wet PR do not mix well.


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 3, 2009)

I was tryin got think of something like that, Thanks!



NewLondon88 said:


> I think I'd probably forgo the wood and use wax. You can carve the wax to shape and
> give it a nice polish and then melt it out when you're ready. This would be a 'lost wax'
> casting. Beats trying to get the wood out!


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## creativewriting (Dec 3, 2009)

Why not use a couple different sizes of clear extruded acrylic tubing.  The smaller diameter being the inside tube housing the ink/cartridge/refill.  Then use the larger diameter tube as the outside grip leaving the space in between for liquid encapsulation.  You would have to epoxy some type of spacer/stopper in the two ends, but they could work into the design.


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 3, 2009)

Im going to cast a blank dry around a tube with a space between the tube and the thin shell of pr. Then i will fill it up with a liquid and do a bunch of ca finish coats...



RAdams said:


> If i understand this correct, you want to trap liquid inside a casting of PR? sounds dangerous... liquids and wet PR do not mix well.


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 3, 2009)

Those are cool, i could probably cast my own, thanks!



creativewriting said:


> Why not use a couple different sizes of clear extruded acrylic tubing. The smaller diameter being the inside tube housing the ink/cartridge/refill. Then use the larger diameter tube as the outside grip leaving the space in between for liquid encapsulation. You would have to epoxy some type of spacer/stopper in the two ends, but they could work into the design.


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## RAdams (Dec 3, 2009)

I am still confused. I think you will have great difficulty castig a tube in a blank, and then having a space between the blank and the tube. What holds the tube in place? how will you attach it to the PR if there is a space? Not trying to be a butthead, just trying to understand.


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 3, 2009)

RAdams said:


> I am still confused. I think you will have great difficulty casting a tube in a blank, and then having a space between the blank and the tube. What holds the tube in place? how will you attach it to the PR if there is a space? Not trying to be a butthead, just trying to understand.


 
Thanks for questioning me, it helps me to refine my design. I will cast it with a mix of wax, strategicly places holes to remove the wax and replace it with water, and a very light hand...


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## workinforwood (Dec 3, 2009)

Not using a tube would open up your possibilities a lot more.  A pen kit with a tube, even if it's a fat meaty pen like a cigar, does not leave much room in between walls for any liquid to be placed.  It would be easier to make a closed end tubeless pen with water inside the end of the pen only.


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 3, 2009)

But that would make it too easy...  :wink:



workinforwood said:


> Not using a tube would open up your possibilities a lot more.  A pen kit with a tube, even if it's a fat meaty pen like a cigar, does not leave much room in between walls for any liquid to be placed.  It would be easier to make a closed end tubeless pen with water inside the end of the pen only.


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## RAdams (Dec 4, 2009)

Even easier would be a closed end tubed pen with liquid in the end... But i feel ya on the liquid center barrell! Reminds me of the "undressing woman" pens from back in the day.

Your idea is really cool, and even possible in theory. I think i would cast the tube in a hard wax. Then turn the wax to the PRECISE thickness. then recast the tube in PR. Then drill two tiny holes in the brass. heat the wax and add air pressure. 

What PR are you using? Silmar 40 (I think) can stand up to higher temps which might be handy for wax removal. Ask around the casting forum... someone will point you to a higher temp material!

Something else to think about.. On a Jr. Gent, if i am not mistaken, the barrell is ever so slightly tapered to a smaller size on the nib end. I would replace the nib end coupling thingy with one from the rear end of another Jr. Gent, or either end of a Jr. Emp. That would give you a uniform barrell thickness, and the a tiny bit more material on the nib end for strength. That odd sized coupler on the Jr. Gent is fully interchangeable with the Jr. Emp, and either end of the Lil Gent. SFE.

I sure would like to see your results, even if it fails (the first time)!


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## Jmhoff10500 (Dec 4, 2009)

Deal!!!


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