# Warning! Never use E6000 Adhesive



## Holz Mechaniker

I picked up a tube of E600 Adhesive manufactured by the company that makes "Goop."  When Cured it has a rubber consistency.  The tube states "Industrial Strength."  Maybe the tube that it is contained in is but not the adhesive. 
This is just a heads up so that if you see it. don't even bother with it.


----------



## monophoto

Posts like this bother me.

That product discussed has a rubber-like consistency when cured is a valid observation.

But I strongly object to the declarative statement in the title to the post.  There are instances in which a glue that cures to a rubber-like consistency is EXACTLY WHAT THE APPLICATION CALLS FOR.  

There are many adhesives to choose from, and many have quite different physical characteristics.  It's important to understand those characteristics, and it is up to us to choose the adhesive that is best suited for our application.

There are applications that require an adhesive that is flexible when cured.  For example, when gluing a glass mirror into a turned wood holder, you absolutely need something that can flex as the wood expands and contracts.


----------



## LouCee

Holz Mechaniker said:


> I picked up a tube of E600 Adhesive manufactured by the company that makes "Goop."  When Cured it has a rubber consistency.  The tube states "Industrial Strength."  Maybe the tube that it is contained in is but not the adhesive.
> This is just a heads up so that if you see it. don't even bother with it.



I've used E6000 to put inserts on top of bottle stoppers and have not had an issue. I don't know if that's the best choice for that job but that's what I used. I actually still have the first one I did this way several years ago and there is not an issue with it. 

What did you use it on?


----------



## jttheclockman

I too use this glue for various projects that require a flex adhesion. Have not had any problems. It is not good for doing segment work.


----------



## PapaTim

My wife and I both use that product. IMHO it works beautifully as designed. No tool can be used for everything. As an example, don't try to unscrew a wood screw with a wrench. My wife often uses it to glue a metal disc to a plastic piece but I wouldn't use it to glue a brass tube into an acrylic blank. It is flexible when cured and doesn't hold up to the rotational force of turning.


----------



## SteveG

Agree with statements as to good results with E6000. Great adhesive for the purpose it is designed for. The OP had unfortunately tried using it for application not intended.


----------



## HamTurns

*E6000 is an excellent adhesive!*

E6000 is an excellent adhesive!

A lot of people use it as just a regular adhesive, or as a "silicon" type sealant.

It's really a contact adhesive.  You are supposed to apply it to both parts, let it dry for 2 to 10 minutes, then assemble the two parts directly together without sliding.  Then set that assembly aside for 24 to 72 hours without any movement until the adhesive cures.  The variable times are dependent on temperature and humidity.

I've used it for years on many different projects and have never had this adhesive fail.  I've found that you can actually use it wrong, not like a contact adhesive, but as a regular "pour it on and stick it together" adhesive and it works, but it will take longer to dry.

Happy turning - Tom


----------



## JimB

I've had great results with E6000 but I don't use it for pens. 

I don't know why you would make a statement like that without any explanation of what you used it for and what went wrong.


----------



## liljohn1368

E6000 is the glue that i use to glue the slate & glass in my pot turkey calls. I've never tried it on a pen.


----------



## Bikerdad

This makes as much sense as saying "dihydrous monoxide kills thousands of people every year, you should never use it for anything!!"

"anything" is a mighty wide term, perhaps a bit of context would be in order.  Heck, the OP doesn't even tell us whether or not the E6000 failed in his application.  Perhaps he was so freaked out by the "rubbery" result that he didn't even bother turning the blank that he en-tubed using it??  (Assuming that it was a blank of course, rather than some other use.)


----------



## PatrickMN

monophoto said:


> Posts like this bother me.
> 
> That product discussed has a rubber-like consistency when cured is a valid observation.
> 
> But I strongly object to the declarative statement in the title to the post.  There are instances in which a glue that cures to a rubber-like consistency is EXACTLY WHAT THE APPLICATION CALLS FOR.
> 
> There are many adhesives to choose from, and many have quite different physical characteristics.  It's important to understand those characteristics, and it is up to us to choose the adhesive that is best suited for our application.
> 
> There are applications that require an adhesive that is flexible when cured.  For example, when gluing a glass mirror into a turned wood holder, you absolutely need something that can flex as the wood expands and contracts.



Would e6000 be good for wood on wood applications? It’s cedar and will be gluing the cedar letters on a cedar board to be hung on a chicken coop. Thank you


----------



## jttheclockman

PatrickMN said:


> Would e6000 be good for wood on wood applications? It’s cedar and will be gluing the cedar letters on a cedar board to be hung on a chicken coop. Thank you


NO absolutely NO. Not a weather glue. I have used that glue to adhere some brass and never held up it dried out after time and became hard. So it does not stay flexible and I have proof. Use PL2000 or Liquid Nails for doing outdoor gluing. You want a construction adhesive. Yes my opinion but a valid one and will stand behind it if anyone wants to challenge it. Not a fan of Gorilla glue so maybe others can comment on it.


----------



## MyDadsPens

I find Titebond glue best for wood on wood (titebond 3 for outdoor wood to wood)
Original Gorilla for metal to wood
E6000 can be used for leather to leather (Barge brand is more popular though)

When any good brand glue fails in a seemingly normal situation My First Thought is Freeze-thaw, people that leave glues and paints in garages that freeze and thaw several times can have problems 
other thought is age - I have worked with guys that at glue up stage grab a bottle of elmers yellow from 1963 and never think twice about using it


----------



## monophoto

My usual preferences are:


for conventional wood to wood joints - PVA (usually Titebond)
for end-grain wood joints, or joints that will be outdoors and exposed to weather - polyurethane
for metal to wood joints - two-component epoxy
for pen tubes - polyurethane
for regluing furniture joints without having to remove the existing glue - two-component epoxy
for adhering glass to wood, or fabrics or sandpaper to wood - E6000

A key word here is 'usual' - because circumstances may cause me to deviate from these practices.  The bottom line is that I choose the adhesive that makes sense for the application.  Frankly, one of the factors that has to be considered in each choice is what is readily available at the time.  My experience is that polyurethane glue has a remarkably short shelf life, and I have often found that the container I have on hand has gone bad when I need to use it.  By contrast, other glues seem to last much longer and rarely present a shelf-life problem.

Also note that CA isn't on the list.  I keep it in the shop, but its rarely my first choice.


----------



## PatrickMN

jttheclockman said:


> NO absolutely NO. Not a weather glue. I have used that glue to adhere some brass and never held up it dried out after time and became hard. So it does not stay flexible and I have proof. Use PL2000 or Liquid Nails for doing outdoor gluing. You want a construction adhesive. Yes my opinion but a valid one and will stand behind it if anyone wants to challenge it. Not a fan of Gorilla glue so maybe others can comment on it.



e6000 is not gorilla glue. I agree the construction glue would be a great choice. I ended up using it and we will see how it holds up. Thank you for the response


----------



## jttheclockman

PatrickMN said:


> e6000 is not gorilla glue. I agree the construction glue would be a great choice. I ended up using it and we will see how it holds up. Thank you for the response


Never said it was. It is a clear rubber type glue. I have used it before with poor results. I would not recommend it especially outdoors. Others may have different results. But there is no better glue for outdoors than a construction adhesive. Gorilla glue as I mentioned makes various types of glue and that is just the name. You see their ads all the time and they are advertising their construction brand glue. If you were going to use it anyway then this is all moot points. Have fun and stay safe.


----------



## mick

I glued a part of the sole back on a pair of boots with E 6000 and so far no problem. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## jttheclockman

mick said:


> I glued a part of the sole back on a pair of boots with E 6000 and so far no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Good luck with that.


----------



## sorcerertd

mick said:


> I glued a part of the sole back on a pair of boots with E 6000 and so far no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


I've done this to some shoes, too.  Best use I've found for the stuff.  I wouldn't use it for pens.  It's designed for items that need to flex.


----------

