# Lamps?



## sbwertz (Oct 6, 2011)

Does anyone turn lamps?  How do you drill the long hole to run the cord through?  I gave some catalpa to a friend in CO last year and when I was back for my 50th class reunion, he showed me the lamp he turned.  It was absoutely stunning.  So I have the other half of that log and would like to try making a lamp, but can't figure out how to get the hole bored through it lengthwise, and guarantee it is vertical.  The lamp he made was about 18" high.


----------



## D.Oliver (Oct 6, 2011)

They make special drill bits for lamp makers.  They are up to about 20" long I think.  I'll see if I can't find a link for you.


----------



## Fatdawg (Oct 6, 2011)

Sharon,
Here's the link to CSUSA lamp auger:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...le_Accessories___Lamp_Auger___lamp_auger?Args=
It's roughly 30" and goes through the hole in your tailstock. I have one similar that was my grandfathers. 

Hope this helps.

Fred H


----------



## D.Oliver (Oct 6, 2011)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-x-48-inch-flex-drill-bit-94317.html

Here is another link that might help.


----------



## Akula (Oct 6, 2011)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...alf-inch-9-16-inch-5-8-eighth-inch-33450.html

I would not try a flex bit


----------



## DurocShark (Oct 6, 2011)

Use it through the tailstock, not the headstock.


----------



## t001xa22 (Oct 6, 2011)

Sharon, a more common length of twist drill bit is considered a "long jobber" bit, and is almost 12" long. If your lamp stand post is not over 18" long, I would suggest drilling from both ends of the post by swapping ends in the lathe chuck. I did one like that a few years ago before I got a lathe. Imagine the fun I had using a hand drill and trying to meet the bore from both ends. Actually, it did work. I have also seen folks section out their posts with mortise/tenon joints so they could bore them individually, then join them later. Just a thought.


----------



## chrisk (Oct 6, 2011)

As noted above, the lamp auger is the first tool to use for boring long holes.

The second necessary tool IMHO is the "hollow cup centre". Like this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-hollow-cup-centre-prod21273/
The hole is drilled up to the half of the lamp. Then you have to reverse the blank and drill the other half without damaging your drive center (fitted in the headstock). But, before doing this, you have to change your drive center with a "counterbore drive" like this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-counterbore-drive-prod21257/
This way, the hole will be held by the counterbore drive.

To sum up, for drilling safely and accurately long holes into lamps you need three tools:
1) a lamp auger
2) a hollow cup centre
3) a counterbore drive

Hope this helps.


----------



## randywa (Oct 6, 2011)

Here's another option if you're using a drill. 
http://www.lowes.com/pd_170990-281-88601BX_0__?productId=1221939&Ntt=drill+bit+extension&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Ddrill%2Bbit%2Bextension&facetInfo=


----------



## lorbay (Oct 6, 2011)

I have a 5 foot x 3/8  bit I used when I wired Log homes. Got it at Home Depot.

Lin.


----------



## Lenny (Oct 6, 2011)

Years ago I made one using this method.... Rip the stock in half ... Cut a centered groove that is the width of the hole you want at a depth of half the hole width, lenghtwise on each piece.... (Example: you want a 1/2" hole ... cut a 1/2 inch wide groove that is 1/4" deep) ... Use a "key" (short length of 1/2" x 1/2") in each end to help align the pieces as you glue them back together. With a thin blade and proper alignment you should get a pretty good grain match. Then it's just a matter of drilling out the "keys" and you have a perfectly centered hole all the way through.


----------



## chrisk (Oct 7, 2011)

Lenny said:


> Years ago I made one using this method.... Rip the stock in half ... Cut a centered groove that is the width of the hole you want at a depth of half the hole width, lenghtwise on each piece.... (Example: you want a 1/2" hole ... cut a 1/2 inch wide groove that is 1/4" deep) ... Use a "key" (short length of 1/2" x 1/2") in each end to help align the pieces as you glue them back together. With a thin blade and proper alignment you should get a pretty good grain match. Then it's just a matter of drilling out the "keys" and you have a perfectly centered hole all the way through.



The way Lenny is refering to is used when the lathe accessories I mentioned above are missing.
In this case, the hole is done exactly as he mentioned preferably with a router (or a spindle moulder). And the tool used is the round nose or radius router cutter like this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-round-nose-radius-router-cutters-prod807622/ 

With this way of doing you can even segment your lamp, by adding two slices (on both sides of the hole) of a different wood.


----------



## snyiper (Oct 7, 2011)

Lowes also has long bits for long runs in a house they are in the electrical section. I think they are close to 2 ft long or better.


----------



## KenV (Oct 7, 2011)

Sharon --  I think I have a 3/8 hollow drilling center for the tailstock if you want to use it.  I will not be needing it for many many many months.  My big lathe does not have a hollow tailstock and I cannot drill through it and I have not felt the urge to try it on the Tucson Jet Midi.  I have the headstock rigged for vacuum on the big lathe and that blocks drilling from the headstock side through a hollow drive center.

I did a few years ago, and if you have a long ways drill - using the 3/8 lamp auger (actually it is a shell drill which is exceptionally good as keeping straight and not following grain changes).  Most of the "construction bits" are not designed to keep exceptionally straight holes.   Plumbers and electricians make bigger holes and do not worry about fit.   I used threaded lamp tubing through the hole.


----------



## bitshird (Oct 7, 2011)

A bit called a bell hangers bit will also work usually about 3/8ths and about 30 inches long, but as has bee pointed out it can't be drilled all the way through, you would wreck either the live center or your drive spur.


----------



## eldee (Oct 7, 2011)

Sharon,
Whatever route you take, clamp your work solidly and be very careful.


----------



## robutacion (Oct 7, 2011)

Sharon,

In relation to the Lamp Auger bits suggested, this video shows how it is used..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wTFQMS1NTg
Good luck with your project...!

Cheers
George


----------



## sbwertz (Oct 7, 2011)

Thank you all for the input.  My concern with a long bit was keeping it vertical while drilling all the way through the piece.   I think my first try will be a bedside or desk lamp that is only about 12" high.  I am getting a larger lathe, and I don't think my midi can handle a very big, heavy piece of wood.  I'll save the bigger lamps for later with the bigger lathe.

The tailstock auger looks good. I'm just not sure I can invest $70 in the necessary tools to use it right now.  I may try a long bit since I will only need to go 12" or so.  If I reverse the stock in the lathe and drill from both ends, I can make do with my jacobs chuck and an 8" or so bit.  I think I have one I used to use for cabling coax computer networks.  

I've used forstner bits in the tailstock, but have never tried a spade bit.  How do they work in a jacobs chuck in the tail stock.  Mine have pretty long shanks and I think it would easily go 6" from each end. Or would I be better to stick with a twist bit?


----------



## robutacion (Oct 8, 2011)

sbwertz said:


> Thank you all for the input.  My concern with a long bit was keeping it vertical while drilling all the way through the piece.   I think my first try will be a bedside or desk lamp that is only about 12" high.  I am getting a larger lathe, and I don't think my midi can handle a very big, heavy piece of wood.  I'll save the bigger lamps for later with the bigger lathe.
> 
> The tailstock auger looks good. I'm just not sure I can invest $70 in the necessary tools to use it right now.  I may try a long bit since I will only need to go 12" or so.  If I reverse the stock in the lathe and drill from both ends, I can make do with my jacobs chuck and an 8" or so bit.  I think I have one I used to use for cabling coax computer networks.
> 
> I've used forstner bits in the tailstock, but have never tried a spade bit.  How do they work in a jacobs chuck in the tail stock.  Mine have pretty long shanks and I think it would easily go 6" from each end. Or would I be better to stick with a twist bit?



I understand your predicament and you may get away with the longer bits you already have.
Drilling with twist or spade bits will very depending on the wood, the very first thing that makes the drill go off-center is wood with hard grain rings among the whole wood texture, the bits (either and all bits) will be pushed from the hard surface into the soft surface of the wood (resistance), the longer the hole the worse it will get...!

For a small lathe, I would be using a sharp twist type drill, as the spade bits require a lot more torque to work and the last thing you want drilling with a spade bit is to get the bit stuck or start grabbing more than what the motor can turn, making the bit "jar" inside pushing it off-center...!

Hope that this helps...!

Cheers
George


----------



## sbwertz (Oct 8, 2011)

robutacion said:


> sbwertz said:
> 
> 
> > Thank you all for the input.  My concern with a long bit was keeping it vertical while drilling all the way through the piece.   I think my first try will be a bedside or desk lamp that is only about 12" high.  I am getting a larger lathe, and I don't think my midi can handle a very big, heavy piece of wood.  I'll save the bigger lamps for later with the bigger lathe.
> ...



That is exactly the type of information I need.  Thank you so much.  

Sharon


----------



## robutacion (Oct 8, 2011)

sbwertz said:


> robutacion said:
> 
> 
> > sbwertz said:
> ...



You're welcome Sharon.

I'm glad that my information/experience can help you and others to understand some of the "dynamics", there is, problems, situations that occur when working with wood.  Having options, is a great thing...!:wink:

Cheers
George


----------

