# 6mm Kitless Tooling



## rhall_8 (Jan 17, 2014)

I am wanting to do a 6mm kitless pen, and I just want to make sure that I have the tooling straight before I go out and spend some money. 
I want to get a 6mm JoWo nib with the corresponding 7.4x.5mm tap. For the section to body threading, I figured I could get a 10x1 tap and die set, which would allow me to use El Grande nibs if I ever wanted to. Then for the body to cap a 12x.75 tap and die set.
Does this all sound reasonable? Is the wall thickness between the 10mm threading and 12mm threading on the body enough? 

Thank you!


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## hard hat (Jan 17, 2014)

That really depends on the material. With a 10mm inside and 12 outside that only leaves a 1mm wall thickness. It may be necessary to make a piece to support the threads on one side while cutting the other.


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## rhall_8 (Jan 17, 2014)

Would a 9.75 be better than the 10.75 then? Would the wall be a little thin on the section then?


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## BRobbins629 (Jan 17, 2014)

I've made many with exactly the tooling you describe.  Yes, some walls are a little thin, but with care and the right materials it makes a good looking design that fits the hand well.


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## BSea (Jan 17, 2014)

You might be better off to go to a 13mm X 1 for cap threads should give you plenty of room.  However, you can use the 12 X .75 with a 10 X .75mm.  That will give you 1.5mm clearance.  I've used that combo without too much trouble. Actually I use the 12mm X .8 triple start set.   It is a good idea  to support the threads, like hard hat mentioned, regardless of what taps & dies you use.


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## Twissy (Jan 18, 2014)

I agree with Bob, I'd go for a 13mm cap thread, either x1 or x0.75. Not just because of the wall thickness but IMO a #6 suits the slightly wider girth of the body and it allows you to put more shape on the section.
Regards
John


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## jimjam66 (Jan 18, 2014)

The 10mm/12mm is only a problem if all of the threading is done to the barrel.  If you apply two sets of threads to the section (10mm to screw into the barrel and 12mm immediately behind it to screw the cap onto) there is no problem.  I do it all the time.


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## rhall_8 (Jan 22, 2014)

Thank you all for your help.


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## Bruce markwardt (Jan 22, 2014)

For the barrel, I use a 10mm for the inside tap and a 12mm triple for the outside die.  The material is a little thin, but it will work.  The critical thing is to make sure that the blank and drill are centered.  

I typically use a Bock #5 nib.  My concern about using a #6 is that the front of the section is pretty thin to fit into the hole in the cap.  I think it will work, but again, everything has to be centered.

My one bit of advice is to figure out the necessary depth and drill sizes when making the cap.  Two failures I seem to repeat are drilling too narrow so the section won't fit when the cap is screwed on (or alternatively having the same issue when making the section too wide) and not making the cap long enough.  I have bent a couple of nibs when they run into the finial.

My best bit of advice is to take notes and keep track of what size drills you have used, how deep you drilled, etc.  I have sort of a cartoon showing all of my standard dimensions and it makes the whole process a lot simpler.  Finally, don't be afraid to make a few failures.  That's how you learn.


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## Dalecamino (Jan 23, 2014)

Drill the finial threads to allow depth for the nib without having an extra long cap. No bent nibs.


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## lorbay (Jan 23, 2014)

I have had a few close calls when it comes to caps and the finial running into the nib so I have drilled out the finial to allow the clearance for the nib.
Lin


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## Dalecamino (Jan 23, 2014)

LOL....there's an echo in here :biggrin:


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## Bruce markwardt (Jan 23, 2014)

lorbay said:


> I have had a few close calls when it comes to caps and the finial running into the nib so I have drilled out the finial to allow the clearance for the nib.
> Lin



That's typically what I do, but I have had an occasion where I thought I had room for the nib to clear without drilling out the finial --- and I was wrong!


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## duncsuss (Jan 23, 2014)

Bruce markwardt said:


> I have bent a couple of nibs when they run into the finial.



I kept my bent nib and use it to test drive all new assemblies. Much cheaper than wrecking another nib each time ... :biggrin:

And as Dale suggests, I drill out the middle of finials now. (Doesn't help if I'm making a cap without a finial though :wink: )


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## Dalecamino (Jan 23, 2014)

It only took one bent nib to make me adjust the cap length on the rest of them. :biggrin::wink: As you suggest....too expensive.


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## rhall_8 (Feb 16, 2014)

I ended up going with a 12x1 tap and die set (the company I was buying from was out of 12x.75), a 9x.75 tap and die, and a 7.4x.5 for a JoWo #6 nib. It took a few attempts to get a workable ebonite section, as it was my first time, but I finally got one to work. Thanks again for your help.


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