# Need finish advice



## texaswoodworker (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi everyone, It's been a while since I've been on the forum but I'm back. I had a question about finishes. I'm pretty much done with CA doe to my high failure rate. (may try it again later though) I was wondering what are some of the pros and cons of a poly or laquer finish and which one would be better? Also, I heard that laquer yellows with age and was wondering if that is a proble with using it on pen?


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## corian king (Jul 7, 2011)

Hello and welcome back.
I use a friction finish from psi.i think it is called pkfrict3 to me it is a very nice finish.
they also have a high gloss verision but you don't need it.I have been using this finish for 5yrs and haven't had any problems at all.I usually put 3 coats and then I use the
mcquires plastx.Of course this is just the way I do it and the customers love it.
Good luck!
JIM


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## texaswoodworker (Jul 7, 2011)

corian king said:


> Hello and welcome back.
> I use a friction finish from psi.i think it is called pkfrict3 to me it is a very nice finish.
> they also have a high gloss verision but you don't need it.I have been using this finish for 5yrs and haven't had any problems at all.I usually put 3 coats and then I use the
> mcquires plastx.Of course this is just the way I do it and the customers love it.
> ...


 
I may have to try this. How durable is it compared to something like ca or laquer?


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## monophoto (Jul 7, 2011)

The friction finish sold by PSI is a lacquer-based finish.  It is more durable than shellac-based friction finishes such as Mylands.

I have also given up on CA finish and am currently using the PSI friction finish. 

I've also toyed with the notion of using either WOP or a water-bourne poly.  I suspect that either would be more durable than a lacquer-based finish, but they also are a bit more complicated.  I use those options on wine stoppers, and the results are very nice.  But the fact that you have to allow each application to dry for at least a couple of hours before applying the next coat makes it a bit more tedious to do.


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## JimB (Jul 7, 2011)

I use Poly on some of my pens. I apply it off the lathe and wipe it on using a very small piece of paper towel. The biggest problem is I need to let it cure 24 hours between coats. I've have not yet tried applying it on the lathe to see if that speeds up the process. I use laquer (can, not spray) on some of my bowls but haven't tried it on pens yet. On bowls I apply it on the lathe.


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## jbswearingen (Jul 7, 2011)

Aaron--

Tell us what you do when you use CA.  We might be able to help you out.  I just started using it about a week and a half ago and have had only one "failure", and that was completely my fault.

I watched this vid on YouTube and pretty much follow his lead.  My pens turn out pretty much flawless now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8wdHFrVadY


Don't give up on CA.  I've found it to be incredibly quick, easy, and beautiful, and people who see it are amazed at it.


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## Shannon (Jul 7, 2011)

jbswearingen said:


> Aaron--
> 
> Tell us what you do when you use CA.  We might be able to help you out.  I just started using it about a week and a half ago and have had only one "failure", and that was completely my fault.
> 
> ...




I do this exact method except I apply the CA to the paper towel.  And because I apply to the paper towel, I do not slow the lathe down


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## jbswearingen (Jul 7, 2011)

Shannon said:


> I do this exact method except I apply the CA to the paper towel.  And because I apply to the paper towel, I do not slow the lathe done.





I may have to give that a try.


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## texaswoodworker (Jul 7, 2011)

I usually sand to 12,000 micro mesh then apply a small amount of blo to the pen. Then I add about 5-7 coats of thin ca (this is where the problem starts, The thin seems to dry too fast to get a smooth coat) Then I add 1 or 2 coats of med ca, then sand smooth with the finest sandpaper that can get the job done (usually around 600 grit or 1500 mm)

The glue usually come out so rought that by the time I get it smooth, I sanded throught it. If that doesn't happen, I will have small dull areas or ghoasting.

Few facts about what I use. 

Brawney paper towls
Kleen strip boiled linseed oil
EZ bond ca glue (pretty sure its not the ca glue, I switched to this brand a whilke back and it works a lot better than anything else I've tried)

Right now I am testing a laquer finish on a pen to see if I like it (so far there seems to be no serious problems).


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## jbswearingen (Jul 7, 2011)

I only use thin CA for filling cracks.  I use the medium ONLY for finishing my pens.  I never have to worry about ridges or it curing too quickly.

I've also figured out not to apply much pressure to the folded up towel.  This way, no glue gets through to my finger.


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## ctubbs (Jul 7, 2011)

Brawney towels tend to accelerate the setup of CA for me.  I use either the small plastic bags the pen parts come in or even more often, the brown napkins from Taco Bell.  I fold the napkin into a long strip about 1 inch wide, apply some BLO until an area about 1 inch square is saturated, let that rub onto the spinning blank, then apply 2-3 drops of thin to the napkin.  Start at one end of the blank and lightly apply back and forth until you smell the CA start to cure. Apply 3 more coats of thin then switch to medium.  Be sure to keep the napkin coated with BLO before you apply any CA.  If the CA bleeds through the napkin to your finger, you will have napkin attached to your finger and it will get hot.  DAMHIKT.  There will be minimal need for sanding after this process.
Charles


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## JimB (Jul 7, 2011)

I think the reason the thin is curing so fast is becuase you have 2 accelerants at work. The BLO and the paper towel. When I have used  thin ca and blo for my finish I start with ca, not blo.  CA, BLO, CA, BLO etc. It will take a lot of coats using thin. I also use wax paper as the applicator. 8 - 10 applications of thin CA does it if I do NOT need to sand. I can usually get it smooth enough that I only need the last 2  or 3 MM steps and HUTS plastic polish. Even with just that It needs to be light touches so I don't go through the ca.

BTW, if the CA is rough and you are sanding through it then just do more coats of medium ca before sanding. Also, turn your lathe speed down. High speed with medium or thick CA will cause the ca to 'wick' when applied and gives you that rough surface and require more sanding.


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## lorbay (Jul 7, 2011)

It really dosen't matter what paper towel you use as long as when you drip CA on it, it dosen't smoke. I have found the blue shop towels from Home Dump work the best for me.

Lin.


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## Jim Burr (Jul 7, 2011)

Les Elm did a great tutorial on WoP finishing...Bing/Google for more info. Any kind of friction polish is going to wear out in a short time if the pen is used. Mylands...who ever's...doesn't really matter. CA takes a little practice, A common mistake is to shoot to much accelerator from to close a distance. Couple of spritz from 2 feet is good. I use a papertowel for 3 coats then 600 wet sanding then and 2 more coats followed by progressive MM...add as many coats as needed. Finish with Hutts or similar product. Works everytime


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## kevrob (Jul 7, 2011)

I have followed this method by William Young since I started turning and I have never had a problem.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

I follow it almost exactly - even down to the mustard bottle to hold the BLO!


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## sbwertz (Jul 7, 2011)

Don't give up on CA until you have at least tried William O Young's technique. It is as close to foolproof as you can get, and even a rank beginner can do it. Watch his video, and try it once. It produces a beautiful finish, and it is very durable. The more coats you add, the deeper the shine. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

Sorry kevrob, didn't see yours til after I posted.  2 votes for William Young's technique.


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## texaswoodworker (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks for the advice everyone. I tried william youngs technique using wax paper insted of a shop towl (do not have any right now) and it worked great. It was by far the easiest ca finish I have ever done. 

I'm really glad it worked. I was afraid I would have to start dipping the pens in laquer (no problem with this but I do not like the 1 week wait)

Thanks again for the advice everyone.


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## jbswearingen (Jul 10, 2011)

Another pen I just turned with CA.  I took the pic outside, slightly overcast, to minimize reflections, which happens a LOT with a shiny finish.  I'm now putting the CA directly ONTO the paper towel, so it's easier to meter AND it doesn't fling or "ridge up".

Spalted maple burl:


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## glen r (Jul 10, 2011)

One other thing to add.  If you are getting ridges on your CA be sure to sand with the grain - the length of the blank.  Do not sand with the lathe turning.  This allows you to remove the ridges but leaves the lower parts untouched.  You seem have gotten the hang of it now so carry on doing what you are and things only get better with practice.


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## mrojas (Jul 11, 2011)

I just started turning pens and was looking for a good sealer and finish and found Defts Sanding Sealer Lacquer, it works wonders and you can buy it at any large hardware store for a lot less than from pen turning supply stores.


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