# machinery for laminated/segmented pen blanks



## Borg_B_Borg (Nov 27, 2008)

I want to embark on making my own laminated/segmented pen blanks.  I have no clue on how to start and would like some suggestions on what machinery may be required.  Shop space is very scarce in my two-car garage.  

Several machines I have considered are:

12" sliding compound miter saw, table saw, belt/disk sander, drum sander, jointer, router table, bandsaw (I already own), scroll saw.

I prefer not to play with a table saw, but might consider a 12" sliding compound miter saw, if that's what's needed.  But if I MUST buy a table saw to get the job done, I will figure out a way to fit it in.

Obviously, I do not have enough space for all of these machines I mentioned.  So, I would appreciate some pointers on what combination of machines is either most efficient or most essential for this task.

Steve


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## leehljp (Nov 27, 2008)

I know that your image and perception favors an SCMS, and I have one. However for small segments are you are talking about, the SCMS is as dangerous as a TS, and more so in my opinion. I have a TS, a SCSM, a Bandsaw. I made my own mini-TS with a circular saw in its own table, then made a sled that is absolutely accurate.

A good sled with hold down clamps will do well on a table saw and keep your hands away from the blade. The problem with a SCSM is that for small pieces and segments, the small cutoff segments are hidden and hard to see, there is the dangerous tendency to make one cut by holding the hands for one cut. DON'T, but it still happens. The second bad part is that the SCSM will take small cutoffs that are not totally clamped and throw them every which way. To me, it takes far more concentration, thinking and planning to make the SCSM safe on small parts than with at TS and sled. IF you are experienced and the SCSM is the only thing you have, you can do amazing things, but to me it has a larger learning curve for small intricate pieces.

Some people use a band saw and they do a reasonable job. However, I want glass smooth cuts on my segments because they reduce glue line width and visibility.

Here is a link to a sled that is just magnificant: http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39234&highlight=sled
It will keep hands away from the action which is a great bonus. Making segments with a sled gives far more control also.


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## alphageek (Nov 27, 2008)

Depends ALOT on what type of segmenting/laminating.  

My little brother is off serving our country in Korea and can do some amazing things with just a bit of patience and a small chop saw.   See example here: *http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37097

*I use the bandsaw and a tablesaw only for most of mine.   If your talking pens, I don't see how a 12" sliding miter saw would be any better than a smaller miter saw.  Segmenting you could start with the band saw you have EASY.

Now laminating might be a bit tougher if you're talking true laminations as thene your probably talking some kind of thickness planner/drum sander.


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## rdunn12 (Nov 27, 2008)

What I use for most segmenting is a table saw with a sled built for small items,a disc/belt sander combo,compound mitre saw(not sliding)and last but not least a planer.You don't have to have a table saw,but,it is a lot more accurate than a band saw(my opinion).I do have a spindle sander but don't use it while segmenting.I also have a 6" jointer,scroll saw(semi useful more operater error than anything),router table and 2 routers for the table and use them only on occasion.I have used the router more for inlay work.Which may be useful for pen blank making,I just don't use it.I am sure others will chime in with other tools they use.


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## amosfella (Nov 27, 2008)

I had a little Dremel table saw that had a 4.5 inch blade, and it was about 15" x 15" x 12".  It had the slides for miters on both sides of the blade, and would be plenty if you make a small sled out of 1/4" UHDP or something like that.
You could just make a small sled for your bandsaw as well.
Word of warning, I haven't made a sled yet, as I have had no need for one, but I think it'll be coming in the near future.


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## ldb2000 (Nov 27, 2008)

The band saw is my workhorse in my shop . I have made jigs for making all of the common cuts for basic segmentation which has made most cutting very precise .
I routinely cut veneer as thin as 1/32" and can with a little tuning cut veneer as thin as 1/64" , the key word is "tuning" , in my opinion the band saw (even a cheap one , within limits) is the most accurate cutting tool in the shop . A very good blade and proper tension and alignment will allow you to make almost any kind of segmented blank . As for the smoothness of the cut , the blade is key , use only high quality bi-metal blade with 6 to 10 tpi and a narrow kerf and make sure you are using enough tension to limit flex and also that your blade is tracking true (you should be able to cut a perfect piece of veneer flat against the fence , this takes allot of tweaking to accomplish) . If you need to sand or run your pieces through a jointer your blade is either bad or out of alignment .
Spend some the money you were going to spend on a new saw on tweaks for your band saw instead .


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## TribalRR (Nov 27, 2008)

I would imagine that with the right jig, you could use any type of saw. That been said, I primarly use a table saw with a Forrest blade and a sled. I have all the other items you mention, but if I had to pick just one it would be the table saw. Since space is an issue you could always go with a portable table saw. Rigid makes one with a mobile base that folds up vertically when not in use. (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100090444)


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## VisExp (Nov 28, 2008)

I have all the tools you mentioned and more in my two car garage workshop.  If I had to choose two tools they would be a good table saw with a good crosscut sled and a scroll saw.  

With the right jig you can do a lot with the table saw, and you can also do it accurately and safely.


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