# Friction Polish?



## Ron in Illinois

I am new at pen turning and for reasons cannot use CA glue.
What are the opinions on these friction polishes---
Hut Crystal Coat; Shellwax Liquid; andMyland Friction
Polish. While I am at it, what about the Hut Perfect
Pen Polish  in bars?
Thanks for your opinions.
Ron


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## witz1976

All the friction polishes work about the same, meaning they look great for a few weeks then dull out.  

Check out this site...all your questions will be answered! http://www.woodturner-russ.com/FinishingSecrets.html


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## hunter-27

witz1976 said:


> All the friction polishes work about the same, meaning they look great for a few weeks then dull out.
> 
> Check out this site...all your questions will be answered! http://www.woodturner-russ.com/FinishingSecrets.html


Here is one that seems to be the exception in my experience with it.  I typically would use CA.  This would be my only other acceptable choice for use on a wooden material (at least as far as any "fast" finish goes).  There are other finishes that are great if you don't need speed as a factor.

http://www.woodwriteltd.com/turnmagi.htm


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## ed4copies

Try spray lacquer.  Very thin coats and lots of them, but you can get a GREAT finish.


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## leehljp

Ron,

There are alternative finishes to CA and also CA application methods that circumvent some of the problems - if you are referring to severe allergy problems.

As to wax finishes, below is something that I wrote a week ago concerning the problems associated with wax type finishes in a different post (here). 



> Waxes do not protect in the long term like CA and other clear acrylic - lacquer - poly etc. does. What new pen turners who like the "real feel" of wood do not realize is that wood pens are used in a totally different way than fine waxed wood furniture is used.
> 
> Fine hand rubbed and waxed wood furniture and display items are not subjected to the temperature, humidity swings and subtle caustic acid in hangling of pens - that go from outside, in the car, in the shirt pocket to inside and air condition. They do not go through the humidity changes that occur from an air conditioned low humidity room to 90% outside to 100% in a shirt pocket. Most Fine furniture is waxed and cleaned after handling where as pens go through handling with dirty hands and shirt pocket moisture several times a day.
> 
> Hand and shirt moisture, dirt and grime are caustic to waxes. CA and the other (but not alcohol based or thinned) finishes do protect in ways that waxes do not. Alcohol based and thinned (Shellac types) are better than just waxed wood, but they still need to be much more effectively cleaned and handled. It is my observation that fountain pen aficionados have this tenacity to "clean" their pens and treat them in a way that can handle lower tolerance finishes. Your average pen user does not have this and will probably complain 6 months to a year down the road of the dirty pen that won't clean off. If you are trying to establish a name for yourself with quality pens, waxed finishes can come back to haunt you. Customers have long memories of pens that won't let go of dirt and grime.



As to long term protective finishes that seal, such as CA does, Urethane, Lacquer, and others work fine but do have their peculiarities for application. If the CA problem is a result of allergies, some people do change to others. For me, I liked using CA in the normal application process, so I had to install a smaller Dust Collector system, use a mask, a fan to blow the dust away and a wet cloth close by to wipe the dust off of my hands.


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## corian king

Hello I agree with hunter-27 He posted a link to woodwright's turner magic.It is a great lacquar friction polish/sealer.But don't waste your time trying to buy direct from him he will never answer phone calls or emails.He supplies penn state with his product and they call it PKFRICT3.I to cannot work with the ca finish and I have pens made with this finish that I carry around all day and one of which has been in my pocket for 2 years and the shine is still great looking.
JIM


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## monophoto

Not all friction finishes are the same.  There are basically two varieties - shellac based, and lacquer based.  Turner's Magic, and the house brand from PSI, are lacquer based and tend to wear better than shellac based friction finish.

The advantage of friction finish is that is goes on quickly, and will build to a nice gloss.  And unlike CA, it penetrates into the wood, and leaves more of a wood feel (CA tends to be plasticky).

But there are other options.  WOP, water-bourne poly, and even plexiglass dissolved in acetone.  The end results can be just as good as CA, but the drying time between coats is longer.


And then there are the dipping finishes - they tend to be faster than wipe-on finishes, but they tend to be messy.


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## Ron in Illinois

Thank you for helping me understand and make the right steps toward 
getting my pens in a higher quality level. I am going to order the woodwrite
products from PSI. I think they are what I have been looking for.
Thanks
Ron


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## wouldentu2?

If you canot use ca due to allergies try the Super-gold brand. otherwise I had started out using wipe on poly and had started to use enduro until I found the super-gold.


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## jeff3285

What about the shellwax that psi sells


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## KenV

witz1976 said:


> All the friction polishes work about the same, meaning they look great for a few weeks then dull out.
> 
> Check out this site...all your questions will be answered! Wood Lathe Reviews and Information




Dan -- Russ's site has been gone for some time now --   there is a link via the library to the "way back machine" to get access to the material he left as a legacy.

Russ Fairfield, woodturner

Under "Offsite Tutorials"


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## monophoto

Shellawax is a blend of wax and shellac.   It can produce a nice shine, but it doesn't withstand handling any better than other shellac-based friction polishes.


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## Magicbob

Capt Eddie talked about one called JB Shine Juice, 1/3 clear shellac, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 lacquer thinner. he claims it out performs all other friction finishes. been going to make some, just haven't got there yet


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## mark james

Magicbob said:


> Capt Eddie talked about one called JB Shine Juice, 1/3 clear shellac, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 lacquer thinner. he claims it out performs all other friction finishes. been going to make some, just haven't got there yet



I made some about a year ago.  I still use it at times and it is fine, but I do prefer Dr's Woodshop Pens Plus (and Woodturners Finish).  I suspect they end up looking similar, but the materials in Pens Plus are probably better quality than what we can make for the Shine Juice.  I cannot attest to how either holds up over time (ask me in 5 years :biggrin.


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## PJVitkus

Something briefly mentioned is polyurethane. As a CA fan I do not use it. I've seen it used by another penmaker, and it looks looks it provides a durable, clear finish; does not pop the grain but does not encase the grain like CA does. Worth finding out more, I'd recommend.


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## flyitfast

I just started using Dr Workshop Pens Plus and I have found my finish for pens and bowls - at least until something better comes along.  I have used most of the other friction polishes and they have been OK.  I have even used  Cap'n Eddies OB Juice, and that has been my goto until I used Pens Plus. OB Juice has no wax in it.  Just oil, shellac, and DNA.  Pens Plus has a form of microcrystalline wax plus shellac and walnut oil.
Just finished a bowl and the finish came close to CA in shine.  Now I have to see how it holds up.
gordon


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## farmer

*your address*



Ron in Illinois said:


> I am new at pen turning and for reasons cannot use CA glue.
> What are the opinions on these friction polishes---
> Hut Crystal Coat; Shellwax Liquid; andMyland Friction
> Polish. While I am at it, what about the Hut Perfect
> Pen Polish  in bars?
> Thanks for your opinions.
> Ron


 
What is your address I will send you what's left the Crystal Coat finish I bought.
Its crap IMO.


CA finish
Lacquer finish  Dip or spray on....... not legal in California......
Epoxy finish  west systems epoxy is the best in my opinion.
K2000 finish.   Its spendy and you will have to spray 10 or 20 pens at the same time and its fumes are worse then CA.

Enron or Emron, not legal in California but I consider it the best finish for oily exotic woods............

Water based polyurethane.Has a light blue tint if applied thick and it doesn't always harden up.
It works in some part of the USA and in other places it doesn't.............

My suggestion is to buy a respirator and the right filters.................
I don't really like using a CA finish, it can be hit and miss until you learn how to use it.
But it is cheaper then setting up a spray booth.

Farmer


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