# Gymnasium floor finish



## mdburn_em (Jun 27, 2006)

I'm wondering if anyone here has tried finishing a pen with any brand of gym floor finish.  When I think about a finish that is designed to take a beating and still sparkle, that is it.  Most are over 50 percent solids and if done right, the floor just shines like it's wet. 
Just wondering what ya'll think.
Mark


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## wdcav1952 (Jun 27, 2006)

Mark,

As you have probably seen, there are many options for finishes.  Some even work! []  I would get some of the finish you reference and give it a try.  Then, publish your results here and get lots of attaboys.


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## vick (Jun 27, 2006)

I think the prolem will be that most floor finished is you have to buy it in a very large container ( 1 gallon or more).  I would guess the gym floor finish would be even bigger (I would guess about 5 gallons).  While it may be able to obtain a small sample I doubt you would be able to regularly get it in smaal enough quantities to be usefull to you.
I could be wrong but I have considered floor finish before and that was the reason I did not try it.


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## mdburn_em (Jun 27, 2006)

> _Originally posted by vick_
> <br />I think the prolem will be that most floor finished is you have to buy it in a very large container ( 1 gallon or more).  I would guess the gym floor finish would be even bigger (I would guess about 5 gallons).  While it may be able to obtain a small sample I doubt you would be able to regularly get it in smaal enough quantities to be usefull to you.
> I could be wrong but I have considered floor finish before and that was the reason I did not try it.


Vick,
You are quite right.  I did a stint as the custodian at the local school here and we did purchase it in 5 gallon containers.  There is always some left over and it usually sits and eventually hardens and gets thrown away.  The salesman I purchased the finish from, often has smaller quantities left over because they not only sell the finish but they will do the floor for a price.  I'm on pretty good terms with him (gave him a pen...[]), so I think it may be doable.  I will see what I can find out and maybe give it a try and post the results.  Since I'm so new at this, I just wondered if any of the experienced turners here had tried this.
Thanks,


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## penbros (Jun 27, 2006)

depends on how many pens you will make in your like. go for it. Its worth a try[]


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## bonefish (Jun 27, 2006)

In 1963, 43 years ago, I built a rifle and finished the stock with something that I was told by the salesman in the paint store that was used to finish bowling alleys.

Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of it or who made it, and anyway, there is probably something, if not better, at least modified by now.

My point is, the finish looks as good today as it did 43 years ago. The stock has some dents and dings, but the finish did not break or chip. What I mean is, the dings and dents are there, but the finish is still intact over the dents. There are no scratches on the stock  and it has been carried through some really thick brush. Almost all of the bluing is worn off, but the stock is still in good condition. 

The rifle has not been pampered. It has been used each fall for each of those years, in snow, freezing rain, and South Georgia humidity.

The above was written to describe the durability of this stuff.

This might be the same stuff that is used to finish Gym floors, but what I am interested in, has anyone ever used it to vacuum stabilize wood? Seems like it would be ideal for that.


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## bonefish (Jun 28, 2006)

Forty three years ago, I finished a rifle stock with something the paint salesman said was used to finish bowling alleys. This is probably the same stuff used on gym floors.

Today, after carrying the rifle in freezing rain, ice and snow, south Georgia humidity, and walking and crawling through some very thick brush, the stock looks as good today as it did the day I applied the last coat.

It does have a few dings, mostly from the hundreds of miles riding in jeeps and other off road vehicles, but the finish is still intact over the dents. The wood is dented, but the finish didn't break, crack or chip. Also, despite the heavy brush, there are no scratches, just the dings made from licks robost enough to dent the wood underneath.

There are similiar products available now. It might be the ideal material to use to stabilize wood.

Hope this answeres you question about durobility and toughness.

bonefish


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## KenV (Jun 28, 2006)

There are several floor finishes that you do not want to mess with because they require respirators and special white tyvek suits.  These are cometimes called "swedish finishes" but generally are cross linked versions of acrylics.  

The Enduro finishes are an acrylic finish suitable for heavy duty.  I have seen others advertised.  

I have used an acrylic floor finish on both oak and rosewood flooring that has been extreamly durable.  Comes in gallon containers for about $50+ a gallon or so, and can be cross linked for additional durability; but I skip that step to avoid the respirator use.  Have used it on trim and other wood use successfully.  Outcome and processes similar to Enduro, so have not gone after because of the quantity needed.  It takes a long long time to use a quart of finish on pens and small turnings -- let alone using up a whole gallon.


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## dubdrvrkev (Jun 28, 2006)

I suppose if the finish works and is economical you could always get a gallon and repackage into smaller containers on a "group buy" type of thing. There may be some issues with repackaging but as long as you don't reproduce the label you should be alright. Is there a lawyer in the house? [B)]


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## Draken (Jun 29, 2006)

Paging JimGo to the white courtesy phone please....
Paging JimGo to the white courtesy phone please....

[]
Draken


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## JimGo (Jun 30, 2006)

Wrong area of the law for me guys.  Kevin is right, the label (or at least portions thereof) may be subject to copyright and/or trademark protection.  But there are issues about repackaging a potentially hazardous/toxic substance, both in the selection of a container generally and in shipping that new container to someone else.  There are also probably other issues I'm not immediately seeing.  But, at least my initial impression is that this isn't the kind of group buy I'd want to run.


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## mdburn_em (Jun 30, 2006)

I appreciate everyone's thoughts on this issue.  
1.  I definitely will be able to get some of this product.  
2.  This product is extremely thick.  I haven't tried any enduro but it may be similar.  
3.  I also build fly rods and I have a device with a motor that rotates at 4 rpm.  This is so the finishing compound will level out and not sag or drip.  I think if I were to get some 1/4" rod, I could mount a number of pens on this device.  Coat the blanks, turn it on and let it dry.  After 24 hours, I will scuff the blanks, clean them with DNA and recoat.  I will post the results.
4.  If you have a school in your area, you have a source for the product.  Most schools finish their Gyms at least every summer and sometimes summer and Christmas break.  Usually, there will be some amount left over in the can.  Most will not use it the next year.  If you are lucky enough to be in an area where you have an organization, you might even purchase a can from one of the supply companies and then disperse it among your memebers.  They are about $100-$125 for 5 gallons.
5.  If I have success, I will research the factors involved in shipping the product.
6.  I will keep everyone posted on my results.
7.  As one writer stated, a lot of these products require a respirator.  I wear a respirator if I'm cutting blanks, sanding or finishing.


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## thewishman (Jun 30, 2006)

Sounds like a great idea, Mark. That would certainly be a durable finish. Hope you experiment goes well!

I'll keep my eyes open for the follow-up report (and pictures.)

Chris


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## Chuck B (Jul 3, 2006)

Another thing you have to understand if you use the Post office or another commercial carrier. You have to declare what's in the package. IE... flamable not transportable by aircraft 
(explosive-fumes) health hazard if container gets broken. etc...


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## KenV (Jul 6, 2006)

Mark -- the kind of respirator (or respirator canisters) vary with the chemical exposures and circumstances.  A dust canister is not the same one needed for VOCs.  The canisters are time and exporesure sensitive.


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## mdburn_em (Jul 6, 2006)

> _Originally posted by KenV_
> <br />
> Mark -- the kind of respirator (or respirator canisters) vary with the chemical exposures and circumstances.  A dust canister is not the same one needed for VOCs.  The canisters are time and exporesure sensitive.


Ken,
I appreciate the heads up.  Actually, I change mine every 6 months...generally.  I purchased this respirator specifically for the gym floor finish and have purchased additional canisters as different situations arose.
Mark


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