# Accent material



## Ginny (Oct 1, 2012)

I am new to pen making, but I have an adventurous spirit when it comes to learning. 

I have noticed that a lot of pens are made with some sort of metal accent material. It seems to me to be either aluminum or copper (am I right?). Could one use silver, gold or bronze? I have a wood lathe and would like to experiment with these accent materials. What should I buy and where to start the journey? What thickness should it be?

I really appreciate any answers I thank you in advance!


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## Jim Burr (Oct 1, 2012)

Lot's of correct answers Ginny...but the short one is...yes. I use all but gold (way to expensive!) My favorites are brass, copper and aluminium...all found on eBay. Thickness...just my opinion...that's all...should be the thickness of the blade used to cut the material. I find 22 to 24 gauge suits me...and only me, well. Some folks use CA to glue it up and some use epoxy. 
They cut easily, sand and finish well. I have some pic's in various postings of elliptical sandwichs that I love doing...but lots of guys are doing crazy amazing stuff with sandwichs. Have fun and happy to help if you need it!


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## wood-of-1kind (Oct 1, 2012)

Brass also makes an excellent 'accent' material. Generally the thickness of the accent material should be equal to the thickness of your bandsaw blade. Whatever you remove from the wood (cut) should be accented with thickness of your material replacement choice.


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## Wood Butcher (Oct 1, 2012)

If you want to experiment with something really cost effective try pop cans.  Cut 'em apart and sand the alum. well then either CA or epoxy the material between blank pieces, drill it, tube it up and turn it.  That's how I got started.
WB


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## 76winger (Oct 1, 2012)

Beyond the general answer of using the same thickness material as the blade, how does one accommodate removal of sawblade marks after the cut? (Thinking Curves at this point rather than straight cuts) Wouldn't you need a slightly thicker material at hat point?

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner


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## Ginny (Oct 2, 2012)

Thank you Jim, Wood-of-1kind, Woodbutcher and76winger for your help. I am going to have some fun and see what happens. 

If one is doing curves, should and could the material be thicker? What do you think the thickest one can go with the accent material whether doing straights or curves?

Thanks!


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## wood-of-1kind (Oct 2, 2012)

Same general rule applies in regards to thickness of your blade matching accent material on curves and non-linear cuts. Do not make curves too 'tight' or else you risk the chance of a blank blow out. Very important to have good glue contact between the contact material.

Good luck and have fun with your project.

I will try to find a link and attach an article done by Keith Larret who I consider the Master of this type of work that you are attempting.


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## Alzey (Oct 2, 2012)

Here is a good experiment for your that will teach you many skills.  

Go to your local big box hardware, go to the roofing isle, find you a roll of aluminum roof flashing. The smallest one will do you for a while. Rough up both sides before you start cutting smaller pieces. It is easier to rough up a big piece than small pieces. 

Now, go to the library and find article on random segmented pen blanks. Use the aluminum between the strips of wood. 

Here is where the experimenting and lessons begin. 

You can use CA, gorilla glue or epoxy. They all have their advantages and disadvantages.  

Turning safety. These blank will come apart faster and easier than most things you will turn. Now you have added flying metal. Wear a FULL face shield. 

Use light cuts and sharp tools. Drilling and turning generates heat. Heat breaks down many glues. 

If a chunk flies off, try to find it and CA it back on. Or, if you can't find it, make a new piece and glue it in (DAMHIKT).

Here are few tips I have gathered from the experts here.
      On highly segmented blanks, after drilling soak the inside of the blank with CA.  After it sets, clean the hole with the drill bit and glue in tube. 
      On highly segmented blanks, you can wrap the blank with cotton string and then soak with CA. This will help with strength of the blank during drilling. Then just turn it off when you put the blank on the lathe. 
      As you turn down the blank you can soak with thin CA to help the end grains and segments from coming apart.  This also works wonders on Black Palm blanks. 

The number one lesson you will learn is PATIENCE.  Patience when turning and patience when things go wrong.  Remember, for most of us, this is a hobby.  Walk away and regain your composure. Turning angry will only get you hurt. 

Hope this helps and remember: there is no one right way to do things, have fun, and turn safe.


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## wood-of-1kind (Oct 2, 2012)

wood-of-1kind said:


> .
> 
> I will try to find a link and attach an article done by Keith Larret who I consider the Master of this type of work that you are attempting.




See link to get an idea as to what Keith has done.


http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/syzygy-49536/


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## dexter0606 (Oct 2, 2012)

wood-of-1kind said:


> Brass also makes an excellent 'accent' material. Generally the thickness of the accent material should be equal to the thickness of your bandsaw blade. Whatever you remove from the wood (cut) should be accented with thickness of your material replacement choice.


 
Not necessarily always the case. If you are just doing some simple segmenting it doesn't really matter. You can use any thickness. When you get into more complex segmenting, such as the celtic knot, is when you need to be concerned about the thickness of material matching the kerf of your saw blade. The same would apply to scallops.
The reason for this it to keep the repetitive sawcuts the same distance from the end of your blank so that everything lines up when you're done.


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## wood-of-1kind (Oct 2, 2012)

dexter0606 said:


> wood-of-1kind said:
> 
> 
> > Brass also makes an excellent 'accent' material. Generally the thickness of the accent material should be equal to the thickness of your bandsaw blade. Whatever you remove from the wood (cut) should be accented with thickness of your material replacement choice.
> ...



Hence the proviso "generally". Like many things in life there are "exceptions", but I do agree with your response.


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## Ginny (Oct 3, 2012)

Thank you everyone for all your helpful tips. I have got lots of food for thought! Hopefully I will manage to 'turn' something out.


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