# First time with polymer clay



## SKEETERPROV

Hi guys I heard alot about pens from poly so i thought i would give it a try...wow nice easy media to work with I am sold....Took a short drive to michaels today and they had all 2 oz makes on for 2 for $4.00, I thought that was not to bad when it is hard to find aroud here... I used a full block of yellow and a quarter block of black and was able to make 6 half blanks...thanx for the view..


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## ZanderPommo

thats too cool. could you perhaps take a pic or post a link to the exact product??  i'd love to try that--too cool


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## PaulD

Skeeter -- great start!  Zander --here's the basic product used for polymer clay pens.  All of these products are from Michaels (I used to teach painting classes there).  Sculpey and Premo both work fine, I just wouldn't recommend mixing brands on the same project as they can have different baking temperatures and turn slightly differently on the lathe.  You won't need the liquid Sculpey as I was just playing with that for some image application projects.


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## SKEETERPROV

*Day 2 with polymer*

Well here is my second atempt... Had a few blow up on me but heres the survivors:frown:


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## SKEETERPROV

Thanx paul for posting the product used....  I might add too that this product is non toxic and is great for non dusty shavings and is nice to sand but is a little hard on the sand paper,,,


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## Mark

Great idea. My kids loved it too. 

They want to give it a try this weekend.


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## ZanderPommo

man why don't more people do this!?!
i see that stuff all over for cheapo. how do you ensure there aren't bubbles or air pockets??
sorry to hijac your thread Skeet- great pens dude!


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## SKEETERPROV

Yes it is good value..I can get 3 blanks out of 2 ozs and a bit i am sure if it the process was perfected you could give acrylic a run for the money..... to keep the air out and bubbles i will roll the poly on the brass tube till it is about a 1/4 inch thick and then lightly roll it in the palm of my hands to tighten it to the brass and then i work the ends so it overlaps an 1/8 of an inch and trim if necessary.after i bake it i use the barrell trimmer at low speed to clean it up...the most important thing of all is to make sure that the ends have no flaws in them or you will get breakout and use the gouge very lightly and you will get nice long curls of cuttings with no dust..lol


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## ZanderPommo

oh man you bake em with the tubes in? i thought you drilled them normally.

do they adhere well?


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## BigguyZ

Wish I saw this earlier, but I just posted in Cas conversations that there's a sale on PC at Michael's.  $1.25/ pack of 2oz on all of the pricey brands, including Premo.

I'm not sure if I'm a fan of wraping the tubes themselves, but I do think these are pretty cool.  Bright colors for a lot less than acrylics.  I like both the "natural" and the CA'd look/feel, so it's pretty versatile.

Just don't overcook it!  (DAMHIK)

I have a lot of things to try, but so far so good.


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## ZanderPommo

if not CA'd will the color rub off, smear, or dull?


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## PaulD

ZanderPommo said:


> if not CA'd will the color rub off, smear, or dull?



Nope, when the clay cures the color is baked all the way through.  There is no need to CA the pens, its just a very effective way to get a real nice shine.  Some people just use Hut PP on them for more of a satin finish.


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## PaulD

ZanderPommo said:


> oh man you bake em with the tubes in? i thought you drilled them normally.
> 
> do they adhere well?



You can do the CA pens either way.  The clay goes a lot further when you use the approach Skeeter describes.  However there are some design advantages to rolling and curing a thicker all PC cane and drilling it out like a wood blank.  When I first started with PC, I did the cane route with all of my pens.  See the photo below.


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## SKEETERPROV

one thing i had problems with today is when i rolled it on the brass i rolled it too thin and the layers all chipped out once i turned them to the desired thickness so i am going to try the solid approach and drill them out and ca glue them to the brass so they dont spin on the brass like the rolled approach. I think if you roll them on the brass you should do it with one quarter inch layer not multiple thin layers.... take it from me I lost six blanks today because of break out.. it makes you laugh when you first try something new it works out great then you try it again and it all goes south....LOL...cheers keep turnin eh!


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## PaulD

SKEETERPROV said:


> one thing i had problems with today is when i rolled it on the brass i rolled it too thin and the layers all chipped out once i turned them to the desired thickness so i am going to try the solid approach and drill them out and ca glue them to the brass so they dont spin on the brass like the rolled approach. I think if you roll them on the brass you should do it with one quarter inch layer not multiple thin layers.... take it from me I lost six blanks today because of break out.. it makes you laugh when you first try something new it works out great then you try it again and it all goes south....LOL...cheers keep turnin eh!



I agree with this advice when applying clay directly on brass.  Put a thicker coat on, cure the clay & barrel and then turn it down to the desired shape and finish.  I also apply a layer of thin CA on the ends after squaring off the PC blanks as it seemed to help avoid fractures at the very ends when turning.


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## PaulD

A couple quick comments about the PC canes in the photo above.  Note that a couple blanks have some darkening of the colors.  This is from overcuring and no it does not turn out on the lathe, the burned colors go all the way through the cane and they are wasted.  Also some of these canes were for camoflaged pens I made.  These camo colored pens moved really well and I did develop a couple variations of color schemes to amuse some of the hunters around here.  Last comment, try to keep the canes uniformly thick and square from end to end.  This photo was from a very early batch and the canes you bet would fail in the drilling process did indeed do so.


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## creativewriting

Hey Skeet, Welcome to the world of polymer clay. The pens look great. If you are having trouble getting the clay to stick to the barrel use a little glue. I use a glue called "Crafters Pick - The Ultimate". I rough up the tube with a course metal file, apply a thin coat of the glue, then let it dry to a tack. The glue re-activates under the curing heat. Since I have been doing this I haven't had one pop yet. I am not a big fan of drilling personally. I think you waste a ton of clay in the process. 

I don't know about the others, but I am not a big fan of the Sculpy II or Fimo. The Premo and Studio (new) are the only ones I find that hold up the best over time. I am sure opinions vary, just my 2 cents.


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## SKEETERPROV

I made some more blanks up tonite and when i was rolling out the clay i noticed small pockets of air and i believe thats what causing the breakouts....I guess i will have to invest in a pasta machine.....


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## PapaTim

I've never tried polymer but will pick some up tomorrow. Have any of you tried rolling it on a small dowel, then baking and drilling to size? Just wondering if that would save some clay and make drilling easier.


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## PenAffair

I remember reading up on this about 9 months ago, and the opinion was back then, that after a while being used, the blanks disintegrate. Is this not true anymore, or does applying a CA coat prevent this?

Not sure if this stuff is available readily in Australia, I'll have to look around and experiment.

Russell.


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## PaulD

SKEETERPROV said:


> I made some more blanks up tonite and when i was rolling out the clay i noticed small pockets of air and i believe thats what causing the breakouts....I guess i will have to invest in a pasta machine.....



Splurge.  Buy the pasta machine.  There are 40% off coupons available for Michaels this weekend.


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## PaulD

PenAffair said:


> I remember reading up on this about 9 months ago, and the opinion was back then, that after a while being used, the blanks disintegrate. Is this not true anymore, or does applying a CA coat prevent this?
> 
> Not sure if this stuff is available readily in Australia, I'll have to look around and experiment.
> 
> Russell.



I'm unaware of such a problem.  Polymer clay has been used in jewelry and other creations for years without that problem.  I've have had pens done with and without CA in use since 12/06 with no evidence of deterioration of any kind.  My guess would be that if anyone ever had such a problem it was related to undercured clay.   I used to be an active participant in a number of polymer clay forums and there were numerous Australians in the forums, so I'm sure PC is available there.


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## PaulD

PapaTim said:


> I've never tried polymer but will pick some up tomorrow. Have any of you tried rolling it on a small dowel, then baking and drilling to size? Just wondering if that would save some clay and make drilling easier.



Interesting idea.  I can't see why that wouldn't work.  The alternative of just applying the PC (with CA) straight onto the brass also would save you on clay.  Again, this wouldn't work with some of the twist and marbled design approaches, but I suspect you will run into this same issue with the dowel idea.


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## creativewriting

To feed off the dowel idea I purchased drill rod the same size as the drill bits for specific kits.  I haven't had alot of time to play, but my intent is to roll long tubes of polymer clay that I can cure and then cut to size.  These can then be glued to the tube like a normal blank.  Hopefully I will have some time to play with this soon.

As for disintigration I am with Paul.  Many people under cure the clay or do something else wrong during the process.  My mom was a polymer clay artist over 25 years ago and she still has pieces that look brand new.  Since then there have be numerous reformulations and additions to the clay world.


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## PenAffair

creativewriting said:


> As for disintigration I am with Paul.  Many people under cure the clay or do something else wrong during the process.  My mom was a polymer clay artist over 25 years ago and she still has pieces that look brand new.  Since then there have be numerous reformulations and additions to the clay world.



OK cool,

Sounds like something else I can't afford to try, but will anyway  Seems there are suppliers here with Fimo, Sculpy, Kato and if I can find a supplier, and Aussie one called Modelene. it's actually quite a dizzying selection trying to decide which one to use. If I can't find the modelene, I think Sculpy Premo seems to be the strongest? I wonder how the bendy stuff turns, might make a nice soft-grip pen for arthritics?

Russell.


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## SKEETERPROV

I see i have created some creative monsters........I might add too i find if i leave the blanks for a day they seem  to harden real nice and the shavings stay together..


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## SKEETERPROV

*New pens update*

well this is what i have been working on with my polymer project ..lol..:biggrin:sorry for the bad pic quality...


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## ldb2000

They look great . 
In some ways this stuff is better the PR since you can build your swirls right into the blank and get effects you can't get with pr no matter what .


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## PenAffair

ldb2000 said:


> They look great .
> In some ways this stuff is better the PR since you can build your swirls right into the blank and get effects you can't get with pr no matter what .



I agree. I'm tired of the pigments separating from pouring too soon, or my resin setting before I pour. If this stuff works as well in person as it looks in pictures, I'll be a convert.

I picked up a toaster oven today, and stole the wife's pasta maker :tongue: Grabbed some generic polymer clay from the cheapie shop to play with, while I order some better stuff. It is not that cheap over here in Aus, so I'll have to try baking on the tube to keep down on wastage.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Russell.


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## SKEETERPROV

I hope you have sucess with it......i am sure you will


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## SKEETERPROV

how did you make out with the poly russell ????


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## PenAffair

SKEETERPROV said:


> how did you make out with the poly russell ????



Oven still in the box atm. The problem with working away from home, don't get to do much. I'll be home in 2 days ready to try it out.

I have been picking up extra supplies though. Bought a cheap photo frame to get a piece of glas to work on - hope it doesn't break, and I have to find an oven thermometer, grater and a roller of some kind.

Regarding finding more clay, to quote a famous Aussie song, "I've been everywhere man" and without much luck. the two big craft suppliers around here have the small 56 gram (2 Oz I think?) blocks for $5 each. I've order some sample packs off Ebay that look OK, but the name brands are very hard to find. I emailed the makers of the Australian brand - modelene, and have had zero response about where to get it I don't know why companies put up contact emails if they never read them 

I can mail-order the other stuff from places here, but I may have to put in an order for something from the US as it ends up being only about 2/3rds of the price including postage here! I was looking at Kato. 

One of the things I've noticed reading Polymer web sites is, translucent is one of the most used "colours", is supposed to be the natural form of the stuff, but it seems one of the hardest to get!!

I'll tell you what though, I'm not sure where to start, as there are so many interesting things to try! Can't wait to give it a go.

Russell.


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## ZanderPommo

just cooked some via instructions, and its fairly soft still. if i try i can dig my fingernail into it. did i do this wrong or is his normal for PC?
if its under cooked can i pop it back in? how long do you guys cook it?


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## SKEETERPROV

Make sure the oven is preheated to proper temp...I use 275 degrees for 20 minutes...make sure you go by manufacturer specs


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## PaulD

ZanderPommo said:


> just cooked some via instructions, and its fairly soft still. if i try i can dig my fingernail into it. did i do this wrong or is his normal for PC?
> if its under cooked can i pop it back in? how long do you guys cook it?



I generally would bake my clay and then immerse it in ice water when finished to stop the baking process.  I don't know if that did a lot, but my PC buddy and PC book author Dotty McMillan recommended doing so.  Anyway, no you could not dig your fingernail into the cured clay when it was cool..  I don't think you would have a problem putting in a little more baking time if you need it -- nothing to lose.  When baking I always let my nose supplement the clay packet baking time instructions -- when I start the smell the clay its almost done and time to check it.


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## SKEETERPROV

*todays poly pens*

Well i was at it again ........ heres the results of todays efforts..


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## ZanderPommo

that red/green is too cool
i'll bake mine a bit more then


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## papaturner

Scott Thanks for starting this thread,I`ve been folowing it with great interest. I`ll send you a bill for the new hobby expense.:biggrin:
 Hope you don`t mind but here is my first pc pen after about two other failures.
Comments and recommendations welcome.


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## SKEETERPROV

Man...... perry that is awesome great choice of colors. It looks lke your having better luck than me..Just got off the phone with my stock broker told him to put all my money into the polymer clay companys i feel their sales are going to increase.....LOL


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## creativewriting

You guys are hooked now.  I have about a100 packs of polymer and still pick some up when it goes on sale.  If you get real hot and heavy I would suggest a pasta machine with a motor and foot pedal.  You can crank some clay out with that baby!

Good luck!


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## papaturner

Thanks for the encouragement Scott.

creativewriting you`re right I`m hooked on aspects of pen turning.:biggrin:


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## PenAffair

Great job Perry.

I'm finally home & can now think about starting my first. Problem is, I'm wracked with indecision about what to try first, there's just so many options :redface:

Russell.


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## ZanderPommo

well, just tried turning some, it was too soft and came apart everywhere it was folded over-also very hard to knead that stuff!


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## Jgrden

papaturner said:


> Scott Thanks for starting this thread,I`ve been folowing it with great interest. I`ll send you a bill for the new hobby expense.:biggrin:
> Hope you don`t mind but here is my first pc pen after about two other failures.
> Comments and recommendations welcome.


This is clay, and your second attempt???


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## SKEETERPROV

When you roll it on the brass do not layer it only use one layer the thickness you want it to be...I try to make mine around 5/16 thick...also if you look hard at the poly once you have your desired thickness check for air pockets....cut them with a exacto blade and push and smooth the air out wi_th your finger.. sounds like you did not bake long enough... if your baking at the temp they suggest add 5 minutes if it is a low temp setting like 275......just what i have tried and seems to work. I will get it down pat sooner or later......HOPEFULLY :biggrin:_


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## BigguyZ

ZanderPommo said:


> well, just tried turning some, it was too soft and came apart everywhere it was folded over-also very hard to knead that stuff!



I use a scraper for 90% of the stuff I turn.  Well not for PC.  I use my skew, and it's the one material I get perfect cuts with on the skew.  So yeah.  Try your skew.  :wink:


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## ZanderPommo

i mean delaminating where the colors were folded together to form the pattern


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## PenAffair

OK well I've done it, made my first Poly Pen. Quite happy with the results. It was made with generic Polymer Clay from the $2 shop what has a fairly matte finish. I wanted a Christmas theme, and also wanted to do as little finishing as possible out of the oven. 

This pen was sanded on the ends to straighten out any PC hanging over, then Micromesh'd and polished with Brasso. No turning was involved. It's a little proud of the kit and slightly out of round at the nib end, and rounded down a little at the cap end. But considering that's from hand rolling, that's a pretty good result. When my wife first picked it up, her comment was "bit bumpy!" :redface:

This was actually my second tube. I mucked up the first one by running white through the never been used Pasta machine, and it came out with black streaks from the mechanism. Tried yellow instead to make a candy cane type blank, but didn't like the end result, so I didn't finish it.

So. The mind boggles at the possibilities. Technique needs some work, and I need some decent clay. It takes longer to do than resin (and wood, but everything is longer than wood) but there's no messy gluing involved at least. The ability to make exactly what you want as opposed to mixing and hoping with resin makes up for it I feel. 

And if you do it economically (there is quite a bit of "wastage" of the clay initially) the actually clay needed for a Sierra blank weighed in at about 3 grams, which comes in at about 15 cents :biggrin: Of course the fact I used up all my white and a couple other sticks means the actual cost if you don't reuse the waste was more like 53 cents, but who's counting?

Thanks again for the inspiration guys, or I may never have tried.

Russell.


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## snyiper

Ok I have to ask how did you get the colors the way they are? That is a awesome pen!!


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## markgum

AWESOME.  I will have to get some of this and give it a try. When baking do you use a special oven?   Is there a lingering smell?  wonder if SWMBO will let me use the kitchen??


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## PaulD

PenAffair said:


> OK well I've done it, made my first Poly Pen. Quite happy with the results. It was made with generic Polymer Clay from the $2 shop what has a fairly matte finish. I wanted a Christmas theme, and also wanted to do as little finishing as possible out of the oven.
> 
> Thanks again for the inspiration guys, or I may never have tried.
> 
> Russell.



Nice job with the Christmas canes!

You can do wonderous things with the canes if you take your time and use a light touch on the lathe.  Here are some other ones I've done with a similar approach to help emphasize what can be done.  (Some of these have been posted here before, but this thread seem to be getting more viewers then past PC threads.)

Kaleidascope





Harlequin





Little flowers





Leaves


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## creativewriting

Who would have thunk it. A bunch of polymer addicts. As for the turning issue you have to take very shallow cuts. I use a procedure where I coat the tube with glue, wrap, and then cure. If it is undercured or gets to warm when you are turning you might as well forget it...Booom!


Both of these were turned just shy of the bushings. I then wet sand with dry wall screens to get the basic shape (they gum up less). Then I work my way done the sand paper chart and micro mesh.


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## BigguyZ

Wow, that flame job is great!  How did you do that?  If I had to guess, I'd say you did the background first, then cut out the flame design, then filled with black.

Is that about right?


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## creativewriting

To a degree yes.  I made the background, cured the piece in the oven, then carved the design.  Once the design is carved I backfilled with raw cobalt blue and cured the piece in the oven again.  Once it was cooled I put it back on the lathe and turned it back to the original shape.  Finished with CA.


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## PaulD

creativewriting said:


> To a degree yes.  I made the background, cured the piece in the oven, then carved the design.  Once the design is carved I backfilled with raw cobalt blue and cured the piece in the oven again.  Once it was cooled I put it back on the lathe and turned it back to the original shape.  Finished with CA.



With a Skinner blend background -- great job!


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## PaulD

CWD -- I just looked at your blog -- nice effort and interesting.  And you are a member of the Guild -- Congratulations!  I see you dislike Sculpey III.  Almost all of my PC stuff has been done with SIII, mostly because I could get it really inexpensively and in a broad range of colors.  I haven't had the durability problem with it that concerned you.  I have done some work successfully with Premo and FIMO, but not enough to like it better.  It may simply be that I got used to working with the SIII.


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## creativewriting

Hey Paul. I think I have the issue because I have hot hands. I know it sounds funny, but many of the artist I know have a problem with SIII getting mushy and some of us have found that we tend to produce a little more heat when kneading, transfering that heat to the clay. It is like kneading soft butter, frustrating. Premo and the new Studio have become my favorites. The Premo will go on sale for a buck about once a month. The darn Studio does not, but it is worth the little bit extra. My mom worked with Fimo and Sculpy for 20 years so I think it really comes to personal preference. Glass Attic has a great review of all the clays and goes into great detail about the physical properties of all the clays (cured and uncured).


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## PenAffair

snyiper said:


> Ok I have to ask how did you get the colors the way they are? That is a awesome pen!!



Was just some basic red & green bullseye canes layered together, then sliced & wrapped. Nothing too fancy.

Russell.


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## SKEETERPROV

you guys are doing incredible stuff with that polymer...I am learning alot...great ideas and designs..


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## SKEETERPROV

*glowing pen*

well i got 2 out 3 completed tonite,,,,, the 3rd one blew up ..... the one on the write lol glows in the dark...sorry for the poor picture quality..


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## creativewriting

Skeet,  looks great.  The glow in the dark clay is the one clay I don't think I have used (Ultra Light as well).  How soft does it get after kneading?


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## SKEETERPROV

creativewriting said:


> Skeet, looks great. The glow in the dark clay is the one clay I don't think I have used (Ultra Light as well). How soft does it get after kneading?


 

I find it is a little softer but it probably depends on the batch


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## Smokey7385

Okay, I'm in. Here is my first attempt at a PC pen. It is just a simple candy cane design just to familiarize myself with the process. There are a couple mistakes but I think it came out pretty well considering I was just winging it. Picture taken with my cell phone so it is not the best, not that I could do much better with my digital.


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## ZanderPommo

2nd try-FAIL
i bake it and bake it and it is getting hard but still not to where i can't dig my fingernail into it


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## BigguyZ

Zander-
What clay are you using?  

I've used Premo a couple of times, and in my experience, you have to trust the maufacturer's instructions.  The clay will still seem softer when it's still hot, but it'll firm up form some time after it's taken out of the oven.  Even at the most solid, it'll still mark with a fingernail.  Bu usually it'll go away, unless you really dug in deep.  Finishing with CA will give it a hard finish.


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## CSue

You guys are building one terribly interesting thread.  I think I'm going to have to take a trip to Michaels.

My favorite ones seen in this thread are . . . shoot!  How can I pick from these beauties.  Papaturner came out with a stunning pen that looked as good to me as some of PR Princess' PR.

PaulD, fascinating work!  Geez, what a great new way to go!  Thank you all a bunch!


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## creativewriting

> I think I'm going to have to take a trip to Michaels


Now is the time to go. In our area Premo is *4 for 5 bucks*. Great time to stock up.

As for the fingernail thing. When the clay first comes out of the oven it is still pliable. You can bend and twist it. As it sits, it hardens. I always let mine sit for a day or two after curing. If I am impatient I will plunge it into some icewater for 15-20 minutes and go from there. Unless you really abuse the pen any impression from a fingernail will work itself out. CA will help if you are really worried about abuse. Lacquer is used in alot of jewelry applications and dries very hard.


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## papaturner

CSue said:


> You guys are building one terribly interesting thread.  I think I'm going to have to take a trip to Michaels.
> 
> My favorite ones seen in this thread are . . . shoot!  How can I pick from these beauties.  Papaturner came out with a stunning pen that looked as good to me as some of PR Princess' PR.
> 
> PaulD, fascinating work!  Geez, what a great new way to go!  Thank you all a bunch!



Thanks a ton Cathy Sue, I needed a confidence builder and that did the trick.


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## PaulD

CSue said:


> PaulD, fascinating work!  Geez, what a great new way to go!  Thank you all a bunch!



Thanks for the nice comments Sue.  Here's some that haven't been shown here yet

These are mokume gane.  I did layers of translucent clay, painted with different colors of ink and then topped with gold leaf to get this effect.






This one is also a mokume gane with gold and translucent clay mixed with various colors of  glitter as I recall.






Mokume ganes are by far the best selling polymer pens I have done.  I made a lot of the gold ones and they sold real fast.  The gold leaf ones are also long gone, but I never made as many of these.


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## PaulD

Smokey7385 said:


> Okay, I'm in. Here is my first attempt at a PC pen. It is just a simple candy cane design just to familiarize myself with the process. There are a couple mistakes but I think it came out pretty well considering I was just winging it. Picture taken with my cell phone so it is not the best, not that I could do much better with my digital.



Nice job Smokey.  Looks like you got a little pink from the red clay mixed into your white.  That happens when you don't really clean off your hands, pasta machine and any other tools between working with the various colors.  Red is notorious for mixing into where it doesn't belong.  Soap and water for the hands and at least paper towel for the tools is generally adequate, although many swear by handwipes.


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## creativewriting

> Mokume ganes are by far the best selling polymer pens I have done


And they are fun to do!!  What I like about the Mokume is that there is no right or wrong.  You stack different colors, add in inclusions, and slice.  With each slice you get something different then the last.


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## jimofsanston

When i put my fittings in they cracked. How can i stop it from cracking? Any ideas?


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## SKEETERPROV

Thats the only problem I have not had is cracking you could try using some ca glue on the ends before turning or you have some real thin brass....are your bushings wore??? and your turning to thin at the ends??


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## PaulD

jimofsanston said:


> When i put my fittings in they cracked. How can i stop it from cracking? Any ideas?



I've only had that happen once and its when I forgot to apply CA to the brass properly.  I knew it was a sloppy job when I inserted the brass in the PC blank and thought I would get away with it.  I didn't.  The only other thing I can think of was that the clay might not have been cured properly, but it sounds like you turned the clay successfully on the lathe which is where that failure would normally appear.  Any chance the fitting just wasn't lined up quite right before you applied insertion pressure?


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## jimofsanston

No it was a wall street II. I baked the tubes inside. it turned really goood. It did not feel to tight when inserting the fitting. i will have to try again.


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## PaulD

jimofsanston said:


> No it was a wall street II. I baked the tubes inside. it turned really goood. It did not feel to tight when inserting the fitting. i will have to try again.



Good luck on the next try.  Its always a shame to be that close to being done when the unexpected happens.  I do a lot with painted pens too and I occasionally lose them after they are painted and into the final CA process -- I've lost some really nice paintings that way.


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## Smokey7385

PaulD said:


> Nice job Smokey.  Looks like you got a little pink from the red clay mixed into your white.  That happens when you don't really clean off your hands, pasta machine and any other tools between working with the various colors.  Red is notorious for mixing into where it doesn't belong.  Soap and water for the hands and at least paper towel for the tools is generally adequate, although many swear by handwipes.



Thanks Paul, actually I think that what you are seeing is the red showing through the translucent. I did however get just the slightest amount of red in there too but not as much as appears in the photo. I did wash my hands twice before going from working the red to the translucent and still got a touch of pink. Might have to go the handwipe route next time I work with the red. Another thing I just thought of; work the light/other color first and the red last. That should help, I would think.

Thanks again, I appreciate your comments.


P.S. I would love to learn how to do the mokume gane thingie. Those are drop dead gorgous. 'Course I gotta learn how to pronounce it first. :biggrin:


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## BigguyZ

What brands have the translucent gold clay?

I have 10 packs of clay and no kits to use them on!  DOH!


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## creativewriting

There is only one type of translucent and that is translucent.  You can alter the look by adding other colors, inks, and inclusions.  It doesn't take alot to shade the translucent clay so start with small pieces and work your way up.

I would recommend if you want to learn some of these techniques to visit the local bookstore.  There are several great books out there that can be your reference for the basic techniques.  Try to stay away from the project books (even though they are fine) just get the most bang for your buck and get a solid technique book.  If you do your research on the web there are some good websites, but I think it is information overload when you are first starting.  Each artist has a way to do something, much like a CA finish.  Mokume can be done a 100 ways and you will find the one that works best for you.  Get a book, stick with it, and don't be affraid to screw something up.


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## PaulD

creativewriting said:


> There is only one type of translucent and that is translucent.  You can alter the look by adding other colors, inks, and inclusions.  It doesn't take alot to shade the translucent clay so start with small pieces and work your way up.



Emphasis on the SMALL pieces when shading.  It takes very little of a different color to dramatically shade the base color of clay.  You can always add more, but you can't take it away.   As mentioned earlier, I like Dotty McMillan's books and I know Michaels always has them in stock and I believe I've seen them at Hobby Lobby too.  The project books are also good when you get past the basics and want to explore special looks.


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## PaulD

Smokey7385 said:


> Thanks Paul, actually I think that what you are seeing is the red showing through the translucent. I did however get just the slightest amount of red in there too but not as much as appears in the photo. I did wash my hands twice before going from working the red to the translucent and still got a touch of pink. Might have to go the handwipe route next time I work with the red. Another thing I just thought of; work the light/other color first and the red last. That should help, I would think.



Sounds like you did everything right Smokey and your explanation makes sense.  I couldn't tell from the photo that you worked with translucent, I was thinking white clay which made the photo color shift look more dramatic then it probably was.


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## ZanderPommo

the clay ive been having problems with is sculpty III
my michaels also stocks premo and fimo


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## PaulD

ZanderPommo said:


> the clay ive been having problems with is sculpty III
> my michaels also stocks premo and fimo



Almost all of my pens are Sculpey III, so that clay does work fine for this purpose.


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## ZanderPommo

dang. i knew it was my fault lol
i'll give it a couple more tries then


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## creativewriting

I am a fan of Premo.  It has been the most durable for the pieces I have made.  Kato and Studio also get good reviews with the Studio becoming one of my favorite, but it is very matte and will not shine up like the others.

There have been a few reformulations of the clay so I am not sure how that has effected the durability.  About 2 years ago (could be wrong on my timeline) they switched some of the plasticizers.  The biggest complaints about the new formula was the softness and loss of durability after curing.


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## SamThePenMan

Wow, all these PC pens are great! We've got a Michaels a few miles from here and I may have to hit it after the holidays and see what they have. Or maybe I'll see if I can stop by the one at my in-laws this weekend. Wonder what someone will find to make pens out of next!


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## SKEETERPROV

*This Weeks pens from poly*

I have been hard at it again.....I have some off cut oak so i decided to take a try building some pen stands...they seem to work but i am still in the proto type stage.....cant have them too fancy ...It wood take from the pens...found my camera finaly after the move it takes a little better picture...well heres this weeks pens.....:beauty:


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## ZanderPommo

my god


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## PaulD

SKEETERPROV said:


> I have been hard at it again.....I have some off cut oak so i decided to take a try building some pen stands...they seem to work but i am still in the proto type stage.....cant have them too fancy ...It wood take from the pens...found my camera finaly after the move it takes a little better picture...well heres this weeks pens.....:beauty:



A polymer machine has been unleashed!


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## ZanderPommo

skeet, these are absolutely breathtaking(especially the quantity)


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## creativewriting

Slow down man!  You're making the rest of us look bad .  Shouldn't you be out making the rounds...lol!


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## SKEETERPROV

*Austin Powers*

Just turned this one out.....:biggrin: My wife calls it the Austin Powers..LOL..Thank you for all your kind comments


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## ZanderPommo

yeah baby:biggrin:


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## BigguyZ

What brands have the translucent clays?  I gotta get me some of that...

You know, I already have too many ideas I want to try...  and not enough kits to try them on.  This isn't helping!  :biggrin:


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## SKEETERPROV

BigguyZ said:


> What brands have the translucent clays? I gotta get me some of that...
> 
> You know, I already have too many ideas I want to try... and not enough kits to try them on. This isn't helping! :biggrin:


 not sure on what you mean by translucent clays???????


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## PaulD

BigguyZ said:


> What brands have the translucent clays?  I gotta get me some of that...:



I think most of the major brands have translucent clays.  I know I have both Sculpey III and FIMO in my residual stack of clays.


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## creativewriting

I have used the Premo and just come some Cernit to try.  Hobby Lobby is carrying a couple new clays that I will have to try.  It looks like they are going designer polymer.  I have heard the Kato translucent is very good from a few friends.

If you really want to have fun the pearlized clays have a great effect.  The clay has mica particles mixed in giving it a shimmer.  When this stuff is polished it looks pretty amazing.


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## SteveH

Smokey

I saw your candy cane style pen, loved it, and would like to make some of those for Christmas, but I have problems getting my 2d brain around 3d ideas.  So please tell me how you roll out and put the colors together, or put the colors together and roll out or what.  and please use small words, I am an engineer.

Thanks so much


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## Smokey7385

SteveH said:


> Smokey
> 
> I saw your candy cane style pen, loved it, and would like to make some of those for Christmas, but I have problems getting my 2d brain around 3d ideas.  So please tell me how you roll out and put the colors together, or put the colors together and roll out or what.  and please use small words, I am an engineer.
> 
> Thanks so much



Hi Steve,

As I mentioned, that was my very first attempt at using PC so I am a newbie.

Tutorial mode on:

I did not use a pasta machine, but I think using one would be much easier. I rolled out two long strips of each color about 1/4" wide and laid them side by side. On the side that would go against the brass tube I took a molding tool and pushed the two together trying not to infiltrate (opps, "mix up") the two colors. I then just twisted the now 1/2" wide clay around the tube and baked it. You will need to start the twist by leaving some waste at the top and bottom in order to get the stripes to completley cover the tubes. I also used the molding tool to VERY gently press the two stips together on what is now the outside. You need to be careful here so you don't get the colors mixed and you want to try to keep the seperation of the colors as straight as possible.

I made the strips quite thin and rather than turn them with any tool, I cheated and after giving the two sections a good bath in thin CA I sanded with 100 grit paper to shape. I then followed my normal sanding process and finished with 4 to 6 coats of thick CA followed by HUT plastic polish.

Tutorial mode off:


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## papaturner

Smokey7385 said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> As I mentioned, that was my very first attempt at using PC so I am a newbie.
> 
> Tutorial mode on:
> 
> I did not use a pasta machine, but I think using one would be much easier. I rolled out two long strips of each color about 1/4" wide and laid them side by side. On the side that would go against the brass tube I took a molding tool and pushed the two together trying not to infiltrate (opps, "mix up") the two colors. I then just twisted the now 1/2" wide clay around the tube and baked it. You will need to start the twist by leaving some waste at the top and bottom in order to get the stripes to completley cover the tubes. I also used the molding tool to VERY gently press the two stips together on what is now the outside. You need to be careful here so you don't get the colors mixed and you want to try to keep the seperation of the colors as straight as possible.
> 
> I made the strips quite thin and rather than turn them with any tool, I cheated and after giving the two sections a good bath in thin CA I sanded with 100 grit paper to shape. I then followed my normal sanding process and finished with 4 to 6 coats of thick CA followed by HUT plastic polish.
> 
> Tutorial mode off:



Thanks Rusty,that`s very helpful.


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## SteveH

Thanks Rusty, that will help alot


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## snyiper

Ok PC gurus I have the scupty as well as sculpty3 I used the 3 and mixed 2 colors and it cured and turned nice but the colors were bland. It was a red and green equal amounts one with a pasta machine one by hand both looks like the colors blended together into a dull red. Now before I try again anyone tell me the secret to getting clean crisp colors?


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## PenAffair

snyiper said:


> Ok PC gurus I have the scupty as well as sculpty3 I used the 3 and mixed 2 colors and it cured and turned nice but the colors were bland. It was a red and green equal amounts one with a pasta machine one by hand both looks like the colors blended together into a dull red. Now before I try again anyone tell me the secret to getting clean crisp colors?



If you were using a marbling technique, it just means you're worked the clay too much. You can use caning techniques to get more colour separation and different patterns as well.

Russell.


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## creativewriting

For me Sculpy just doesn't do it.  This is only my opinion as others have had a great deal of luck with it.  Premo (made by the same company as Scuply) can be picked up for the same price on sale and the colors have a lot more contrast once baked...IMHO.  Use the pearlized clays if you want a deeper effect.

Try not to mix the clay to much.  Roll the different colors into ropes.  Group them together, roll into a rope again, bend it, twist it, and fold it in half.  Do this until you get the desired effect.  If you just mush it together you will get....mush.

Good luck!


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## papaturner

creativewriting said:


> For me Sculpy just doesn't do it.  This is only my opinion as others have had a great deal of luck with it.  Premo (made by the same company as Scuply) can be picked up for the same price on sale and the colors have a lot more contrast once baked...IMHO.  Use the pearlized clays if you want a deeper effect.
> 
> Try not to mix the clay to much.  Roll the different colors into ropes.  Group them together, roll into a rope again, bend it, twist it, and fold it in half.  Do this until you get the desired effect.  If you just mush it together you will get....mush.
> 
> Good luck!



This pen was made doing exactly what Keith said.


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## dontheturner

They are stunning!  I specially like the blue one.  Thanx for showing us.  dontheturner


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## snyiper

Ok makes sense I use sculpty3 and have since read they tend to blend more than others... So I guess Ill look for some Fimo and try making canes and twisting together see how that works.


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## SamThePenMan

Maybe I've missed it, but I was wondering if anyone has tried doing lettering in a PC pen? Would that work or would it just be too hard to get letters in with out it blending too much? My though would be to roll out a background color, then cut out (either freehand or with some sorta letter stamp thing) and then fill the cutout with another color, and roll it on to a tube. Just a thought, I haven't tried PC yet so maybe it wouldnt work that well.


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## wb7whi

2 things

I have yet to see any pendents made with the clay

It is time for a video of the process. I have seen a few on youtube but nothing relating to pens. We could also use some definitions here, "cane?"

Thanks

Wayne


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## nava1uni

Cane refers to a roll of clay that is baked and can then be drilled for a tube


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## creativewriting

There are pendants everywhere. I have made a few and if you search the net most of what is being made of polymer clay is jewelry.

As for the videos there are a couple on youtube. Craftygoat (??) does a quick tutorial on pen making. I am hoping one day when I am not dealing with the weather and my 19 month old gives me time to do some video tutorials or at least some more indepth photo tutorials.

Lettering is tricky. It can be done with canes, but the only one I know that can do it with precsion is a crazy Canadian (Wes Warren). Wes is brilliant when it comes to Millifiore techniques and canes. His Flickr site is a lesson in what your not supposed to be able to do with clay http://www.flickr.com/photos/beadopolis/.  Many artist use stamps to creat lettering and highlight the effect with oil paints.


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## randyrls

jimofsanston said:


> When i put my fittings in they cracked. How can i stop it from cracking? Any ideas?



In the past, I have expanded the tube ends so the fittings are a slip fit.  Then CA glue in the fittings.  Put a drop of medium or thick CA inside the tube and insert the fitting with a twisting motion.  Use a transfer punch to enlarge the last 1/4" or so of the tube.  If you turn with bushings, you may have to add tape to the bushings to fit correctly and keep the bushings concentric.


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## georgestanley032

I made some more blanks up tonite and when i was rolling out the clay i noticed small pockets of air and i believe thats what causing the breakouts....I guess i will have to invest in a pasta machine.....


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