# New to finishing.



## zack898 (Apr 8, 2013)

Hello everybody, 

i am 16 years old and i just recently got into turning, pens in particular, I've been running into a problem that somebody might be able to help with, I've been using a water based finish(shown below)on my pens and applying it with a regular bounty paper towel, it hasn't been getting that glossy acrylic kind of look to it that i wanted, I've been putting 3-4 pretty thoroughly and just not turning out how i wanted it. anyone got any suggestions as to if i need a different finish and if so what would that be, or if there is a better way to apply, 

any comment is helpful thanks.

Zack


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## RMayoIII (Apr 8, 2013)

I've never used that stuff so I can't say what happened but I know that ca finishes are super glassy. Maybe you try one out and see if you like it? It's almost like putting a clear plastic coating on your pen!


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## jttheclockman (Apr 8, 2013)

Check this link out. Maybe some info in there to help you. General Finishes Wood Turner’s Finish | The Wood Whisperer

You can always learn the CA finish. It is a proven winner.


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## ssajn (Apr 9, 2013)

Here's another video on Woodturners Finish. 
Pen finishing.mp4 - YouTube


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## Rodnall (Apr 9, 2013)

Did you sand or polish it? Even ca needs to be sanded using micro mesh to get a super shine I believe.


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## monophoto (Apr 9, 2013)

Zach -

WTF is essentially a waterbourn polyurethane.  I've never used WTF itself, but the descriptions I've read suggest that it is designed to emulate an oil finish.  Oil finishes are not known for being extremely glossy.  I have used other waterborne floor finishes on pens and styluses and it has worked very well.  Keep mind that because it is a waterborne product, the first application WILL raise the grain, and must be sanded back. The key is to sand it back lightly between applications, apply multiple applications, and then polish the final application

I suspect that you could still get a finish that would be really nice on pens although it may not be the glass-like gloss of CA.  I think the trick is multiple applications, but with sanding between applications.

I suggest that you try this:
1.  Sand the pen to at least 400 grit.
2,  Apply the WTF with the lathe spinning at the lowest speed.  Let it dry at least an hour.
3.  Lightly sand again using the highest grade abrasive you used prior to finishing.
4.  Apply another coat of WTF with the lathe spinning at the lowest speed.  Let it dry at least an hour.
5.  Using a white scotchbrite pad, very lightly denib the pen with the lathe running.
6.  Repeat steps 4 and 5 several times.  
7.  Let the finish cure thoroughly.  It will be dry to the touch in an hour, but it will take at least 24 hours to thoroughly cure enough to be buffed.
8.  Polish to achieve the final result.  The simplest polish would be an automotive polish.  Hut makes a two-step wax stick product that works very well.  Another option would be a polishing wax such as Dr. Kirk's Scratch Freee.


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## Chris Drysdale (Apr 9, 2013)

Zac, you are lucky that you are just starting out pen making, I have been at it for a while.

I have used most finishes, and until recently had not discovered Livos oil a German product formulated from around 28 natural cold pressed oils with a micronised resin.

Go to Floorings.com - Livos Finishing Products 

3 coats with the first coat drying for 24 hours, 2nd coat rub down 12000 wet & dry very lightly as the next coat melts any residue, on the 3rd coat after lubricating the turning burnish dry using paper towels. You will be surprised with the lustre .

Regards
Chris


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## Dick Mahany (Apr 9, 2013)

Zack,

Glad to see to are having fun at pen turning and welcome. I have recently switched to Gen Finishes WTF and it is now my go-to finish. I didn't like it initially as it wasn't building the gloss that I expected, but then I figured it out. Here's what worked for me.

I put it on at 750 RPM with t-shirt painters cloth pieces, then hit it gently for ~1 minute with a heat gun set to 500 degrees at about 6-8" away . About every 3rd or 4th coat, I cut it back with 400 wet silicon carbide paper. I can easily build a 12-15 layer coat in under 20 minutes that looks like glass. It doesn't start to build the gloss for me until about 6 coats, so just stick with it.


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## Russknan (Apr 9, 2013)

*WTF*



Chevota Guy said:


> Zack,
> 
> Glad to see to are having fun at pen turning and welcome. I have recently switched to Gen Finishes WTF and it is now my go-to finish. I didn't like it initially as it wasn't building the gloss that I expected, but then I figured it out. Here's what worked for me.
> 
> I put it on at 750 RPM with t-shirt painters cloth pieces, then hit it gently for ~1 minute with a heat gun set to 500 degrees at about 6-8" away . About every 3rd or 4th coat, I cut it back with 400 wet silicon carbide paper. I can easily build a 12-15 layer coat in under 20 minutes that looks like glass. It doesn't start to build the gloss for me until about 6 coats, so just stick with it.



Zack, welcome to the obsession. Unfortunately, I have no useful answer to your question, but, as expected, the experts here will really help. Dick, I have to ask. How on earth did you figure out that routine??? I'll have to try that . . . right after I try Captain Eddie's "Shine Juice". Russ


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## Dick Mahany (Apr 9, 2013)

Russknan said:


> Chevota Guy said:
> 
> 
> > Zack,
> ...


 
Russ,

I noticed that the WTF was taking a little longer to dry one day in my shop due to lower temperatures.  So I thought why not give it a little help with the heat gun.  Couldn't believe the difference!

I observed that the WTF was very glossy when applied wet, but quickly dulled back when the heat was applied.  After several coats, this effect began to diminish significantly, so I just kept at it, building more coats.

I've done this at least 20 times now with the same results each time, so I'm sticking with it


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## jttheclockman (Apr 9, 2013)

Chevota Guy said:


> Russknan said:
> 
> 
> > Chevota Guy said:
> ...


 

Now I am not a finishing guru or anything like that but I do finishing with different mediums on other woodworking projects. Just a tip about the heat gun thing. When you force dry a product like that you are skimming over it and the product is actually not dry at all. Many fine finishers will tell you to let the finish dry on its own at its own pace. Chemical things happen when a product is drying so you forcing it may have an adverse effect. I would never force dry something and that is why I do not even use acclereant with CA. To me it makes the finish too brittle. I have no fact to prove it but from what I see when I tried it that is what I believe.Just an opinion and it is mine.

You are having success with it for now so do as you please and good luck.


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## alphageek (Apr 9, 2013)

zack898 said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> i am 16 years old and i just recently got into turning, pens in particular, I've been running into a problem that somebody might be able to help with, I've been using a water based finish(shown below)on my pens and applying it with a regular bounty paper towel, it hasn't been getting that glossy acrylic kind of look to it that i wanted, I've been putting 3-4 pretty thoroughly and just not turning out how i wanted it. anyone got any suggestions as to if i need a different finish and if so what would that be, or if there is a better way to apply,
> 
> ...



Welcome to IAP Zack!

I've only played with that a little so far.   Ed4copies on here posted a video on using it:  Woodturners finish applying-2min.mp4 - YouTube

My guess is that you probably havn't applied enough coats yet.   The one time I did it so far, I got decent results but I know I put about 8 coats on, then I gave it a couple days to harden completely and then I buffed it on my buffer.  That helped it shine more.


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## Leatherman1998 (Apr 10, 2013)

I know this is on a small box but this is the cut n dried method of how I do CA. I took a little work but it is worth it. I do use micro-mesh and don't regret it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=red_odhyjv4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Levi Woodard
Woodardwoodworks.com

Sent from my Galaxy player using Forum Runner


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## Dick Mahany (Apr 10, 2013)

jttheclockman said:


> Now I am not a finishing guru or anything like that but I do finishing with different mediums on other woodworking projects. Just a tip about the heat gun thing. When you force dry a product like that you are skimming over it and the product is actually not dry at all. Many fine finishers will tell you to let the finish dry on its own at its own pace. Chemical things happen when a product is drying so you forcing it may have an adverse effect. I would never force dry something and that is why I do not even use acclereant with CA. To me it makes the finish too brittle. I have no fact to prove it but from what I see when I tried it that is what I believe.Just an opinion and it is mine.
> 
> You are having success with it for now so do as you please and good luck.


 

John,
In general I agree with you about letting the finish dry on its own. I also use a variety of different finishes on other wood and metal projects and do not force-dry those for the reasons you point out.

This is my only exception and I wasn't sure how it would work until I tried it. You are correct that chemical curing does happen over time and even though I get a finish that looks like glass it is noticably harder the next day. I observed this when experimenting with white diamond buffing WTF finishes at different post-cure times. Thanks for the good advice.


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