# does CA/BLO fill pores?



## KP (Nov 14, 2006)

Folks - 

I'm up to finishing a really nice looking lamination pen, birdseye maple with two thin strips of padauk curving through the pen. It's my first such pen and has a fair bit of work in it, so I don't want to screw up the finish.

I've not used padauk before, and didn't realize how big those pores are. I've only done one pen before with such an open-pored wood (peruvian walnut) and on that one I used shellac for a finish and it never filled the pores despite quite a few coats. I actually still have and like that pen, but it's not the look I'm after here.

So, will the CA/BLO do the trick for me? I have begun to use Russ' method (Thanks Russ for that video clip!). If not, suggestions on how to fill just the strips of padauk would be appreciated. At the moment, I'm thinking some epoxy colored with something or other, then I'll have to resand (dang!). Wonder if a contrasting color would look good...

Many thanks - 

Ken


----------



## keithz (Nov 14, 2006)

It sure appears to fill in on the amboyna burl, honey locust burl, and olivewood I have turned.  I really like Russ's method of applying CA/BLO.  

So, I too, have to thank Russ for the demo on his site.


----------



## martyb (Nov 15, 2006)

I don't think it will work for you on the padauk.  The pores are just too big.  I've tried it before on a small scrap block I turned round specifically to test the finish.  Nope!  
There was a pen posted here a while back made of padauk.  I believe they used sanding sealer to fill then the ca/blo finish.  It was a phenomenal looking pen with a glasslike finish in the photo.


----------



## gerryr (Nov 15, 2006)

Sanding sealer will not fill those yawning chasms in Padauk.  There are really only two things that will work, either wood dust or thick CA.  Since you're using two different woods, I wouldn't recommend wood dust because what you'll get is whitish dust in the Padauk.  I would recommend sanding the wood to a minimum of 400 grit, 600 or 800 would be even better.  Use air to get all the sanding dust out of the pores.  Then seal the whole thing with a couple coats of thin CA, no BLO.  Then start applying coats of thick CA.  I use a folded up pad of Viva paper towel and hold it pretty firmly against the blank with the lathe on at low speed.  Drizzle the thick CA on where the towel meets the wood and move from one end to the other.  Let it cure completely and repeat.  The last Padauk pen I made it took about 5-6 coats to completely fill the holes.  After 4-5 coats you can sand it all back down.  If the holes still aren't quite filled, apply more coats.  It takes a while to finish Padauk.

I think this is the Padauk pen referred to.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18055


----------



## bob393 (Nov 15, 2006)

Interesting, never tried that, thanks.


----------



## KP (Nov 16, 2006)

Thanks for the replies, folks.

So since it sounded like I'd have trouble getting the pores to fill with finish, I decided to try packing some metal dust into the pores, thinking it might look neat. I used a brass metal dust. I liked the look, so tried to sort of burnish in the dust with a piece of brown paper bag, then started a BLO/CA finish with first thin CA, then thick. It didn't work out well - seemed like the metal dust came out of the pores and smeared on the maple a bit. 

So tomorrow I'm going to sand back to wood, then try my old favorite technique of putting dust into the pores and just applying thin CA (with the lathe off). I'm going to just use padauk dust. Then I'll need to resand, but hopefully the pores will be filled well.

Man what a PITA. Hope this pen ends up worth it. 

Ken


----------



## fiferb (Nov 17, 2006)

I've used a medium CA with the lathe off and slowly spinning it by hand while dripping a drop at a time. I rub back and forth to push the CA into the pores. I wear a latex glove and drip right onto my finger. Sand back to smooth after it drys. Works pretty well for me.


----------



## ctEaglesc (Nov 17, 2006)

What you are experiencing is the same thing you would experience with any wood,The only difference is because of the size of the depth of the pores it is more noticeable.
Simmply put, the pen is not ready for a finish.
The finish should go on a surface that it level and smooth.this is because the finish will magnify any imperfection under it.
Because of the woods you selected it will take a little longer to complete this step.
I would compare Paduk as being similar to Irish Bog oak in that the open grain can be problematic.
Fiferbs answer could be transferred to using the same thing with any finishing material, lacquer etc.
Some woods are more problematic than others.
Paduk, Oak, wenge, are some examples of the tough ones as opposed to Bocote, olive wood, hard maple being examples of easier one.
I have seen a lot of pens that have been posted where the pen was not ready to have the finish coat applied.
The prep work to the surface was not where near completion.
When I finsh a pen I want it to look like a fine piece of furninture, not like a piece of imported wood that can be found at Walmart with a coat or two of a spray on poly and a cursory "sanding" and shipped out the door.
You may want to take a look at DCbluesmans album.He predominantly uses lacquer but the finish medium is not the issue, it is the appearance.
Think of a walnut gunstock on a high end rifle.Do you see pores and open grain  in the wood?


----------



## kent4Him (Nov 17, 2006)

Well said Eagle


----------

