# Beall Buffing?



## carsonbm (Dec 16, 2010)

I am new to pen turning, does anyone use the Beall system for polishing pens?  Do you polish the pen with this system before or after the pen is assembled?
I sure would appreciate any input to my questions.


----------



## KenV (Dec 17, 2010)

I polish before assembly (unless I really want to strip the plating off the fittings).


----------



## ctubbs (Dec 17, 2010)

Aww, Ken come on and polish the assembled pen.  It is just too cool to watch the clip roll around the pen body.
Charles


----------



## carsonbm (Dec 17, 2010)

It has been great getting dumb answers


----------



## srf1114 (Dec 17, 2010)

You shouldnt buff metal on your buffing system.  It will turn the buffing wheels black and will strip the thin coating of metal finish off the metal parts of the assembeled pens. 

Only buff the un-assembled wood or acrylic pen blank. There is some debate about being able to buff truestone blanks, but never buff the various metal blanks either.


----------



## randyrls (Dec 17, 2010)

Carson;  I do the polishing just after I finish sanding the blanks with the blank(s) still mounted on a mandrel.  The mandrel gives you something to hold onto.  I don't often use the tripoli (brown).  Usually just the white and then wax.


----------



## Padre (Dec 17, 2010)

Barry Gross also has a two wheel system that is nice.  

Buff the pens before you put on the hardware.  This avoids accidentally rubbing off any plating, getting the fabric from the buffing wheels stuck in various parts of the pen and also actually tearing off the clip.

HTH.


----------



## wb7whi (Dec 17, 2010)

Keeping the pen on the mandril and after standing to 400 or 600 I buff with tripoli to remove any sanding scratches that might be left. I then return to the lathe and go through the CA routine. 
When the pen is finished I buff again with the white diamond and carnuba.


----------



## KenV (Dec 17, 2010)

Hey Carson -- Vague questions can get simple answers -- and yes I have buffed the tip where I did want to remove the plating -- one of the rifle shell pens where there was a desire to have a brass tip instead of plated (was using the 7mm slime line tip with brass casing).  

Different materials used for pen making get different treatments at my shop -- If I am working the micromesh or abranet abrasives, I do not use the buffs.

I also use the electric drill driven sanding pad that I use on bowls on some pens.  

You do not need a buff setup to get exhibition finishes --


----------



## DozerMite (Dec 17, 2010)

srf1114 said:


> There is some debate about being able to buff truestone blanks, but never buff the various metal blanks either.


 


The Truestone and any of the metal blanks can be buffed and polished to a very fine, shiney finish.

Buff before you assemble and never use wax.


----------



## witz1976 (Dec 17, 2010)

DozerMite said:


> srf1114 said:
> 
> 
> > There is some debate about being able to buff truestone blanks, but never buff the various metal blanks either.
> ...



And have seperate dedicated wheels for the metal blanks.


----------



## DozerMite (Dec 17, 2010)

witz1976 said:


> And have seperate dedicated wheels for the metal blanks.


 

It's a good idea, but not absolutely necessary. Just be sure to rake the wheels before each use.
It's much more important to have a seperate wheel for each compound.


----------



## galoot_loves_tools (Dec 17, 2010)

I guess I don't see the need for buffing a blank. I go up through the grit sizes and micromesh then Huts plastic polish with the blank on the lathe. What's the advantage?


----------

