# Maximizing Pens Plus Finish



## Dan Masshardt

I'd like to have a thread to continue to discuss methods and best practices with Pens Plus from Doctors Woodshop   

I've been pretty happy with the result that I've been getting, and I want to continue to maximize it   Oh and the time savings is huge   

So, for those who have been using pens plus, questions like...

1. Do you feel like you are getting a nice, fairly high gloss?  (Assuming you want to)

2. Have you narrowed down your method to one that works well for you consistently?

3. Have you found that different types of wood require different approaches, coats?

4. Have you used pens plus on any different materials / tried anything unusual that you've found effective?

5. Have you gotta any indication from pens you've been using or given sold with pens plus that are not wearing well

(Please, no comments making overarching statements like, "friction polishes don't hold up"   If you've specifically found that pens plus specifically doesn't hold up, PLEASE do share that!)

Thanks for contributing   My hope is that we can have some good ongoing discussion on this particular finish


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## panamag8or

Question, Dan...
Does this stuff have a high build-up, like CA? You don't have to overturn, then build up to perfect fit, do you?


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## Dan Masshardt

panamag8or said:


> Question, Dan... Does this stuff have a high build-up, like CA? You don't have to overturn, then build up to perfect fit, do you?



Great question.   I haven't measured but I've never had the blank overhang the hardware   I just turn to bushings  

I know others use many more coats than I do   I find that it builds as far as the gloss quickly and after several coats, I don't get any additional shine by applying more coats   

I'm interested in how others do this


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## southernclay

Great topic, I'm curious about the build up now. I'm also curious about how sanding/or not with the walnut oil affects the finish. I've yet to hear anyone have an issue with durability. I've been using a pen on my desk for several months with no problems. 

I'll be thinking about a few tests to try to contribute some. I love pens plus for the few oily woods I've used it on as well as open grained woods. 

Dan have you buffed it before?


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## BSea

My only issue with it has been with softer wood.  I don't think it keeps the shine like harder wood. 

I sand with walnut oil like *THIS*.  And I do think it makes a difference over what is recommended from Doctor's Woodshop.

I don't think it builds.  At least it doesn't build like CA.  I typically use about 5 or 6 coats.  I've tried more, but I don't really see any difference after 5 or 6 coats.

I don't sell many pens, so I'm not the best one to ask about longevity. But the few that I use that have this finish have been holding up nicely.

It is my goto finish for anything oily like Lignum Vitae, cocobolo, or ebony.  Although I haven't done an ebony pen with it yet.


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## greggas

I agree with Bsea...it does not work as well on softer woods. 

 But I have found a very useful place for it in my work.  I recently had to make 300 sierras for a client and although I got  good per unit price,  it was  a bit below what I normally charge for a single pen.  Based on positive feedback I read on this forum and a few turner's web sites i gave Dr a try and was very happy.  It saved a TON of time and breathing was much better !

I tend to use in in a much simply manner than the link in Bsea's post.  I sand to 600, clean with acetone and then apply 3 coats.  With friction it sets up very nicely and gives a great shine. 

I have been using a pen made with this method since february and it seams to hold up nice.  I still use CA on my high end kits or on special pieces of wood that I really want the finish to "pop" but certainly do not miss the fumes and trouble breathing after long nights of CA !

I have started to sell pens with Dr at shows as well and so far , so good.


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## Dan Masshardt

I want to start doing some more experimentation.    I don't know if I've tried it yet in softer woods.  When you say softer, what do you have in mind - like maple?

Somebody give me a good challenge.  ;-)


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## greggas

Dan...one softer woods that come to mind is Peruvian Walnut...I ended up needing about 6 coats until the finish absorbed evenly.  It never really match the gloss and shine of harder woods such as pink Ivory, Oaks, Maple, Zebra etc


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## BSea

I did a dyed curly maple pen.  I never could get the same degree of shine like I can with harder woods.  It's a Sierra, and I might just disassemble it since I don't care for it too much.


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## Dan Masshardt

Question: has anybody used pens is on a stabilized blank to get a higher shine than buffing alone?


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## greggas

Dan;

I have used on stabilized blanks...I liked the results...similar to what i had with other hardwood.  I never only buff a stabilized blank so I only have CA finish to compare it to.


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## jcm71

I recently had occasion to disassemble a Slimline I had turned in Imbuya and finished with Pens Plus (crack in the wood).  I had glued the tubes in with thick CA.   When knocking out the mechanism, the brass tube came with it.  I'm wondering if the cause of that was the heat generated by the polish degraded the glue bond between tube and wood.   If so, I have a bunch of Slims with loose tubes in them.


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## Big

What kit is that black pen Dan?


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## Dan Masshardt

BURLMAN said:


> I recently had occasion to disassemble a Slimline I had turned in Imbuya and finished with Pens Plus (crack in the wood).  I had glued the tubes in with thick CA.   When knocking out the mechanism, the brass tube came with it.  I'm wondering if the cause of that was the heat generated by the polish degraded the glue bond between tube and wood.   If so, I have a bunch of Slims with loose tubes in them.



I doubt it.  Slim trannies are notorious for coming out hard.   It is possible I assume.   I do very few slims.


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## Katsin

Big said:


> What kit is that black pen Dan?



The Celtic style pen can be obtained here:
Celticus Master Pen Kit Chrome / Titanium Gold

I've ordered from them a few times and they were reliable.


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## Dan Masshardt

Big said:


> What kit is that black pen Dan?


jr celticus.   That has no finish on top of the sanding.  Just between grits.


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## Dan Masshardt

At this point I'm calling pens plus my go to wood finish.   

So easy and such a nice finish.


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## Dick Mahany

Dan, have you compared this to General Finishes Woodturners Finish?  That has become my favorite, but I'm always interested in improving anything!


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## Dan Masshardt

Chevota Guy said:


> Dan, have you compared this to General Finishes Woodturners Finish?  That has become my favorite, but I'm always interested in improving anything!



Kinda - I have a bottle and I've experimented with it but I didn't stick with it long enough to get a finish I was really pleased with.   

 It seems like it takes a little while to get a decent build with wtf and then ideally is polished, sanded or buffed somehow, right.    

The nice thing about pens plus is that you don't have to 'finish the finish'.


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## southernclay

Dan I think you just answered my question. You aren't buffing on your buffing setup correct? Just paper towel? Your finish is looking great. I've been wanting to see how durable pens plus is but after using a desk pen finished with it for months I'm sold. I did a cast mini pinecones pen not too long ago with it and it worked out great. So I'm thinking for cast objects, worthless wood etc its a really good option.


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## Dan Masshardt

southernclay said:


> Dan I think you just answered my question. You aren't buffing on your buffing setup correct? Just paper towel? Your finish is looking great. I've been wanting to see how durable pens plus is but after using a desk pen finished with it for months I'm sold. I did a cast mini pinecones pen not too long ago with it and it worked out great. So I'm thinking for cast objects, worthless wood etc its a really good option.



Warren,

   I'm sorry that I missed your question earlier.  

Correct, I've not been buffing it.    Honestly even 'buffing' with a paper towel adds very little.   For me, it sort of buffs itself out as the finish hardens on each application.   

I've been wondering about pinecones / worthless style pens.  I'll try that soon as I'm going to start casting (or trying to) these sorts of blanks.


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## Dan Masshardt

For anyone reading, my 'secret' is that I use a drop of pens plus between each grit of sandpaper. 

    If the grain is tight, I blow the dust off well.  If there is some grain to fill etc, I wipe most of the dust off and allow the remaining to fill in with the pens plus.   Just a drop, not a lot.    Why bother with walnut oil?   I believe this is better.   It works for me anyway.    

And Micromesh, waste of time in my opinion with this method.  By the time I get to 800 I'm just dulling the polish is all when I sand. I could easily stop at 500.   

 I've been using 6 coats after the sanding is done most of the time.  2 forward 2 reverse 2 forward.    But honestly, it looks pretty darn close to finish after 2 coats.  I don't  know what the others add or not.  My plan is to keep doing what I'm doing. 

A bottle of this stuff will last awhile.


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## Jim Burr

Chevota Guy said:


> Dan, have you compared this to General Finishes Woodturners Finish? That has become my favorite, but I'm always interested in improving anything!


 
That's what I started using Dick. I tried to air brush it on and it took about a month!! Paper towel works just fine.


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## Dan Masshardt

Jim Burr said:


> That's what I started using Dick. I tried to air brush it on and it took about a month!! Paper towel works just fine.



Jim,

      You started using it recently or you started using it before switching to ca?


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## southernclay

I've been wondering about pinecones / worthless style pens.  I'll try that soon as I'm going to start casting (or trying to) these sorts of blanks.[/quote]

Thanks Dan,
For the mini pinecones there were a couple of small air pockets/voids, I filled them with CA before sanding and all worked out to do PP after that. I think I sanded with Walnut oil since mostly acrylic, then 3 coats of PP.

For worthless wood I think the same could be done on the small voids that I've had with the buckeye burl ones.

I've only done one full size pinecone (Atrax). It took a lot of filling for it to finish out well. In that case I think CA is the way to go to get it to fill properly. However it may work to fill and then sand and do PP after. It just several times of filling for me to be happy with it. So by that point I was wanting it done and CA was already out :biggrin:

I'm going to copy your secret BTW :biggrin: Flattered?

Also, looking forward to seeing what you come up with casting, hope all goes well.


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## Weatherbee

hey guys,

I've been using the pens plus and i also love it! i used dans tip on using it while you are going through your sanding grits up to 600 and its fantastic. after the 600 i start applying it with just a paper towel and the lathe cranked to about 3900 rpm and friction it in with heat. wait 45 seconds and add another one. i do about 6 coats as well and it works great. I've gotten away from CA finish mostly because it looks pretty cheap and plastic like when its done. I do however use CA with the pens plus when i want a more natural look and feel. once I've sanded to 600 i then do 5 coats of thin CA, lightly sand to even it out and then add 10 thin coats after that. i then take 600 grit wet sanding sand paper from klingspor and wetsand lightly. after that i will take some 0000 steel wool and give it a light touch and its dulls down the CA finish. it still has a great shine and luster but it doesn't feel fake and plastic. just a nice shine achieved. i believe this will be good to ensure the longevity of the finish and also the oil acts a second level of stabilization underneath the ca finish. i stopped using medium CA bc of it being cloudy, chipping at the ends and overall breaking away from the bushings is a lot tougher with the medium. if i use thin ca then a couple taps  on the lathe bed and its freed. then some sanding of the ends of the barrels lightly with 600 grit and its good to go!

all those below are done with strictly pens plus and the black ash polaris is a combo of pens plus and thin ca


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## Weatherbee

heres the black ash


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## TellicoTurning

I don't use the pens plus, so my comments won't be necessarily pertinent to this thread, but I do use a couple of his wood finishes on my bowls... I like the finish, but don't get the shine I do from poly...


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## VotTak

I tried Pens Plus before, but I followed video on that site. Finish was not bad but far away from CA. 
Yesterday I tried Dan's "secret". I do not have lathe with reverse so I only used it in "forward". But nevertheless I got some beautiful finish. I will definitely keep on trying in that direction as I see potential in here. BTW I tried on only one kind of wood and compare with my older attempts to use Pens Plus. See a huge difference. I understand that it will not come with first pen, so I'll see whether I will end up.


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## endacoz

I have more than 15 lilac blanks glued up to be turned in the next week.  I will be doing half in pens plus and half with CA.  I will post pictures after!


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## OOPS

Dan, now that some months have gone by since your original post, do you still consider Pens Plus to be your "go-to" finish for wood pens?  

I had an opportunity to meet "the Doctor" at a Woodcraft open house.  He brought a basket of bottle stoppers to the event, each finished with Pens Plus.  He had quite a variety of woods represented.  He claimed that each stopper had been touched hundreds of times, as he takes them to every presentation he does.  What I liked most is that the wood shines without the glare (or direct reflection) you get when using CA.  The bottle stoppers looked rich and expensive, such as you might find an executive  might want for an elegant statement in the liquor cabinet.  I haven't made any bottle stoppers yet, but when I do, I am pretty sure I will finish them with Pens Plus.


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## Dan Masshardt

Good question.  Yes - it is.  I'm still trying to maximize it though. 

There are so many variables to play with. 

The pens finished with it all look good but I'm trying to decide why some end up glossier then others.  

I do sometimes use ca though.  Maybe 1 ca pen for every 20 in pens plus.  Usually more expensive pens.   

For pens plus, it's vital that any open grain or pores be filled before final finishing.  Pens plus itself will not fill in like ca will.  

I'm continuing to mess with -

- speed while applying finish 

- how many coats

- if applying any coats in reverse makes a difference 

- whether to use the same spot on the paper towel for all the applications or use a fresh spot each time.   

- whether letting the finished tubes sit untouched for a day or more makes any difference. 

- if anything else after the pens plus improves the end result - wax, buffing etc.


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## southernclay

I want to add a suggestion that has been working well for me for filling pores or small inclusions or tear out spots. This came from Ben Kelley at a GA penturners meeting. He mentioned sanding with wipe on poly to fill grain. I tried it and so far has worked out really well! Try it, you might like it!


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## wwneko

I like the idea of using wipe on poly to sand.  What have you been using to fill the pores Dan?


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## flyitfast

Pens Plus(PP) and all the other Doctor's Woodshop products are my goto also.
I had the opportunity to visit with Michael Meredith at last year's AAW Symposium and at SWAT in Waco.  He shared some great tips on using Pens Plus, most of which have been shared in this thread.

 Key are:  Start with smooth surface
               Speed needs to be at about 3000 to best create heat.
               Speed also helps blend the new coat with the previous coat, making a single thicker coat.
               5-7 coats should give a good shine - softer woods might need more.

I use Dr's microcrystalline wax as a final finish which protects the PP a little better.  It is similar to Ren Wax, but I think it gives a harder clearer finish.
I have also used PP on some bowls with success, although I do wax over it also to protect.   I need to get some of his other Walnut oil products for larger turned items.
I do still use CA when that type of finish is requested, but not as often.
gordon


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## Dan Masshardt

wwneko said:


> I like the idea of using wipe on poly to sand.  What have you been using to fill the pores Dan?



Pens plus!  That's what using a bit between grits is all about.  

If I have a bugger spot to deal with I'll use ca and dust to repair then sand it back down and go to the pens plus.


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## Dan Masshardt

flyitfast said:


> Pens Plus(PP) and all the other Doctor's Woodshop products are my goto also. I had the opportunity to visit with Michael Meredith at last year's AAW Symposium and at SWAT in Waco.  He shared some great tips on using Pens Plus, most of which have been shared in this thread.  Key are:  Start with smooth surface Speed needs to be at about 3000 to best create heat. Speed also helps blend the new coat with the previous coat, making a single thicker coat. 5-7 coats should give a good shine - softer woods might need more.  I use Dr's microcrystalline wax as a final finish which protects the PP a little better.  It is similar to Ren Wax, but I think it gives a harder clearer finish. I have also used PP on some bowls with success, although I do wax over it also to protect.   I need to get some of his other Walnut oil products for larger turned items. I do still use CA when that type of finish is requested, but not as often. gordon



So you apply all coats at 3000 or above?  

Do you apply the wax in the lathe and right away after the pp?

The walnut oil and carnauba wax blend is really nice for larger turnings.


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## Souths1der

I got some pens plus over the weekend to check it out based on this thread.  Obviously I need to use it for more than the three pens I've used it on in this short time, but here are my results.

Pen one - Bloodwood.  Followed Dan's method of a drop in between sanding grits.  Sanded to abranet 500.  I did the 6 coats, 2 forward, 2 reverse, 2 forward.  I applied those coats at about 1k and then buffed them at about 4k.  The pen tuned out pretty good, there seems to be some faint dull spots near the ends though, really have to look hard to see them.

Pen two - Bloodwood.  Did everything like pen one except used a little more pens plus on each of the 6 final coats and made sure i paid closed attention to the ends.  This pen looks fantastic, no faint dull spots.

Pen three - Cocobolo.  Did everything like pen two.  I could barely see micro scratches in the finish with the naked eye.  So I went to the polishing system.  It didn't take them out, so I figured it must have happened on one of the first couple coats or the last sanding.  Stripped the pens plus and re-did everything.  No scratches after the final sanding, but they showed up after the second coat of Pens Plus.  It had been a long day, so I just stripped it again and used CA because I really like CA on Cocobolo anyway.  Maybe I'll do another test with Pens Plus on Cocobolo again.  Could have just been a fluke.

I will say that I hope I can work this out and use it as my primary finish.  I really do like the look of the two bloodwood pens.  It was also quite easy to use and you don't have to worry about fumes or finishing the finish.  All good things IMO.


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## VirgilJ

Thanks Dan for starting this thread. It comes at a good time for me because I've developed a severe reaction to CA and I've been looking for a replacement finish.

The picture is of the first pen I finished with PP. The finish is actually better than the picture shows because I'm a lousy photographer. I put it on using the same method I used for a ca/blo finish rubbing lengthwise quickly until I felt the heat start to build up. I put on six coats like several have suggested, but like you said after two or three it doesn't seem to change much.

I'm happy with the results. It's got plenty of shine and is very clear and bright with good depth. Frankly I'm surprised a friction polish looks this good.

I'll probably still use lacquer for my high end pens, but at this point I don't see why PP wouldn't be a great alternative to CA for everything else.


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## endacoz

*lilac wood with pens plus*

For those that use pens plus do you stop there or do what I did and lightly buff drs. walnut oil microcrystal paste wax as well.?
Lilac sewing handle with Pens Plus finish.: https://youtu.be/OW0cmJ7872Q


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## Dan Masshardt

I just ordered the wax to try.  Normally I haven't.  Haven't really tried.


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## Gary Zakian

Same topic but slight tangent.

I will be finishing a few pens with PP, and the customer would like to have the names of the recipients laser engraved on the pens.  

Question - do I have the engraving done first, BEFORE any sanding?  AFTER all sanding but before putting final few coats of PP on?  OR FINISH completely and then engrave?

I would appreciate any thoughts or comments.

Thanks in advance.


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## Dan Masshardt

Gary Zakian said:


> Same topic but slight tangent.  I will be finishing a few pens with PP, and the customer would like to have the names of the recipients laser engraved on the pens.  Question - do I have the engraving done first, BEFORE any sanding?  AFTER all sanding but before putting final few coats of PP on?  OR FINISH completely and then engrave?  I would appreciate any thoughts or comments.  Thanks in advance.



Finish completely then engrave.


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## Gary Zakian

Thanks for the input Dan.  I will proceed accordingly.

Gary


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## mmayo

I have all of the doctor's workshop stuff and WANT it to works for me.  I like the results immediately after I finish or on the lathe.  The next day, not so much...  The glossy finish I liked is now a semigloss at best.  Smooth to the touch and still pretty, but not glossy enough.

Any ideas?


PS - thanks Dan for this thread


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## Dan Masshardt

mmayo said:


> I have all of the doctor's workshop stuff and WANT it to works for me.  I like the results immediately after I finish or on the lathe.  The next day, not so much...  The glossy finish I liked is now a semigloss at best.  Smooth to the touch and still pretty, but not glossy enough.  Any ideas?  PS - thanks Dan for this thread



Good observation.  The aspects I recommend experimenting with are 

1. - make sure you really heat it up on the last coat.  

2. Consider leaving it for a day or more (don't handle the finish) before assembly.  

Also, some woods seem to leave a glossier result than others.  Well stabilized or very dense woods are best. Others can work well enough too.


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## SkookumPens

I have been using all of the Doctor's finishes and am very happy with them. I use his walnut oil first and then his Pens Plus on most of my pens. I use it on all my pens for the troops. I have more then 1000 pens I have completed for them. We also use it at Woodcraft when we do the pens for the troops.
Craig Chatterton
Puyallup, WA


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## VotTak

I noticed that PP works on very dense woods like cocobolo. Tried it on stabilized bog oak and it is working nice as well. Works well on even non stabilized BO. But fails on BOW. On Bow it looks bad at least for me. Maybe I need to change something in the way I apply it. Still experimenting.


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## Souths1der

When you're applying it, what's the best way to generate the most heat?  I've tried two different ways to apply:

1.  After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and wrap the paper towel over the top and kind of pinch top and bottom together while moving back and forth rapidly.  I generate a ton of heat but I found on some types of wood this could produce some small but visible marks all around the blank.

2.  After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and keep moving the towel rapidly underneath the blank for about a minute.  This eliminated the small marks that would sometimes show up in certain woods, but I can't really feel any heat in my fingers during the process.  If I touch the blank when I'm done with each coat it does feel warm though.

Also, how long should I spend on each coat.  I've been doing probably 45 seconds to a minute with the lathe at 3k.


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## Dan Masshardt

Souths1der said:


> When you're applying it, what's the best way to generate the most heat?  I've tried two different ways to apply:  1.  After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and wrap the paper towel over the top and kind of pinch top and bottom together while moving back and forth rapidly.  I generate a ton of heat but I found on some types of wood this could produce some small but visible marks all around the blank.  2.  After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and keep moving the towel rapidly underneath the blank for about a minute.  This eliminated the small marks that would sometimes show up in certain woods, but I can't really feel any heat in my fingers during the process.  If I touch the blank when I'm done with each coat it does feel warm though.  Also, how long should I spend on each coat.  I've been doing probably 45 seconds to a minute with the lathe at 3k.



Closer to number 2 for me.  Use a little more pressure.  I spend less time per coat.  The last 2 coats are what I spend time on getting relight and  heated up.


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## BKelley

I use Dr Woodshop Pen+ on 90% of the wood pens I turn.  I do veer from the instructions a little and I get a nice Finnish.  The gloss is not as high as CA, but I have always leaned toward a nice sheen in lieu of high gloss on wood.  If I want a plastic looking Finnish, then I'll use an acrylic blank.  AAA+ for Dr. Woodshop.
Ben


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## TOF

Dan Masshardt said:


> I just ordered the wax to try.  Normally I haven't.  Haven't really tried.



Dan how is the wax working out for you? What are your opinions? I just picked up some Pens Plus and trying this out.

Thanks


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## Dan Masshardt

TOF said:


> Dan how is the wax working out for you? What are your opinions? I just picked up some Pens Plus and trying this out.  Thanks


  as far as the wax goes I can take it or leave it.  Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't. 

It is not a make or break thing for me.


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## TonyL

You didn't ask me...but I used to be down on the wax. However, I was not apply it with another heat (rpms). I now apply it very warmly and I have found it to add slightly more shine and I am assuming some protection. I didn't mean to answer for Dan (who turned me on to PP), I just want to help answer the question. I now use the wax all the time if I use PP. I hope this helps.  I would be happy to send you some... a little goes a long way. Just PM me your address. When i don't use PP, I use Rejex synthetic wax ....amazing stuff and excellent long term protection (and if you wait 12 hours between coats, it will build extra layers.)


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## Dan Masshardt

TonyL said:


> You didn't ask me...but I used to be down on the wax. However, I was not apply it with another heat (rpms). I now apply it very warmly and I have found it to add slightly more shine and I am assuming some protection. I didn't mean to answer for Dan (who turned me on to PP), I just want to help answer the question. I now use the wax all the time if I use PP. I hope this helps.  I would be happy to send you some... a little goes a long way. Just PM me your address. When i don't use PP, I use Rejex synthetic wax ....amazing stuff and excellent long term protection (and if you wait 12 hours between coats, it will build extra layers.)



Great comment tony!  

You are the reason I keep experimenting with the wax!

Do you really heat it up like the polish or just 'warm?'

Multiple applications or 1?


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## TonyL

Just getting back from Nashville...sorry for the delay. Not as warm as when applying the PP. However, here's how I know...it starts to shine slightly more than the plain PP finish (not be silly or sarcastic). As soon as I see if become incrementally shinier/more reflective, I stop. I only apply one thin coat. I really didn't like it at first, then called and asked whomever markets/invented it and once he told me what to do. It worked as advertised (at least for me).


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## Russ Hewitt

*Longevity*

What is the longevity of the PP compared to CA/BLO? I would hate to have to start refinishing customers pens after a year because it does not hold up. I am hoping for good news because I really hate the smell of curing CA:frown:


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## TonyL

I have not experienced it lasting nearly as long as CA or CA/BLO. However, I don't think it is intended to perform or finish the same way. Dan M. could probably tell you more.


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## Russ Hewitt

Are there any finishes that are long lasting besides CA/BLO??????


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## Wildman

Not sure will get a definitive answer because comparing a film forming finish (CA) to friction finish (shellac, walnut oil, wax).  The big unknown is how the finished item will be used daily. 

A general rule of thumb is use the finish that provides protection and durability to the wood surface.  

How durable and protective does the finish need to be?

Since talking wood pens we know the Intended use. What we don’t know how much or how little that pen will get used. So whether use penetrating or film finish no way to tell how that finish behaved after leaving us.  

Is health and safety a concern you and ultimate end user?

Most finishing material require we wear some PPE.  People with allergies or oppose finishes that outgas forever might have concerns.  

Do you want a natural wood look?

Well many finishes will provide that but, some impart an amber hue and not stop woods that darken or lighten with age over time. 

Finishing products come in gloss, semi gloss, or satin sheens, discussion gets murky whether want the look and feel of wood or plastic look and feel a finish provides.  

How will you apply the finish and what is your skill level? 

Only you can answer that!

Bottom line wood species and characteristic, personal choice makes selecting a wood finishes all about compromises no one finishing material will work for every piece of wood.


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## mmayo

Dan

Once again, thanks for this thread.  I have been using BLO/CA to finish  250 cedar plugs and I feel I have somewhat mastered that technique.   Today, I had a bunch of pens to turn and finish and decided to try BOTH 4  coats BLO/CA and finish up with three coats of PP.  Heat was generated  during each coat of either finish.  Here is a photo (cellphone) of the  pen barrels right after finishing.  I was hoping for more wood grain and texture especially the lower 5 pens made from the rail of a sport fishing boat.







I see a nice shine and feel the wood grain, but also a smooth finish  pleasing to my fingers.  I still like CA and will probably use it for my  mission critical pens, but these look very nice.


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## TonyL

They do look very nice.


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## southernclay

Has anyone been top coating their Pens Plus finished pens with a wax i.e Ren Wax or others? Seems like the durability is proving to be pretty strong but a wax coating may be a nice addition especially for some of the softer woods. I think paste wax is the only wax I have but haven't ever put it on a pen.


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## TonyL

I have used (and still have a ton of) of the microabrasive wax that is recommended after applying the PP. It does work when you allow heat to build, but I have not found it to last after a few weeks of regular pen use.


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## Jimmykoko2

This is a very informative discussion. I'm interested in trying the Pens Plus finish. Who are you using for a source? I see it on Amazon and also on the manufacturer's website. Final price for both including shipping runs from $26.50 to $27.00.


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## TonyL

I have it and if you send me your address, I send you some, including the micro abrasive wax. Just make sure you watch several of the videos. Both the PP and wax requires heat.

Peachtree WW or Woodcraft have it on sale this week in case you want a full bottle.


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## stuckinohio

I don't see much talk about the Dr's High build friction polish. How does this compare to that product?

I am hit or miss with CA finishes. Sometimes awesome results, sometimes terrible with hazing, cracking, clouding.

I have craft coat coming now, but I am really curious about this finish and the high build finish.

Any comparisons from someone who has used both?

Thanks in advance,

Lewis


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## maxwell_smart007

what is pens plus?  Shellac-based wax finish?


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## stuckinohio

I think so, along with walnut oil and a wax.


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## stuckinohio

Pens Plus

web page link to product.


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